Problem is getting this grade and thread type with drilled holes ! - what you can buy tends to be metric pretty much thats it . Drilling this grade of bolt is near impossible and whilst we could get them spark eroded - that by the nature of the process weakens the metal. We have spend a considerable time considering wiring......found lots of hurdles and brick walls !
@@MegasquirtUK wire EDM might weaken the metal in some points, but do you think that weakness would actually affect the retention / shear strength of the bolt? I thought most wire EDM happened underwater, which would help keep things cool. Also, thank you for your reply. You guys are clearly pros. I am just a curious hobbyist.
@@jessewilmot2166 Thats never going to happen as we no longer do any work on Salisburys - we sold all our stock and all the special tools some while back !!
To reduce the chance of crown wheel bolts backing out do you think there's merit in running longer crown wheel bolts with a spacer under the head? Could give some more strain/elongation in the bolt to maintain clamping
No. Any sort of "Spacer" adds potential for issues, sometimes where you have to use them you just have to, that includes most washers flat or spings old technology. The standard CW Bolts tend to stretch, and then when loose shear off, or if overload shear anyway even when tight. As you go up in Bolt strength 8.8 > 10.9 > 12.9 etc strength increases but so does brittality (Look up Glass bolt paradox). FTC5150 are pretty good, flanged head so larger surface area, and a serated head to bite into the steel etc, but these can shear as brittle. Nordlocks are a clever option, serations 2 x sides and a cam locking system, and as here NLX are alos domed giving a spring washer additive too. Length is not as crucial, if the bolt shears thats the point where the Center mets the CW, stretching is due to overload and weaker bolt, what we have here is the best of what we think we can do, ATBs also being machined out of way tougher / harder steel than other diffs due to the 12 x Cylinders the gears run it mean FTCs don't really bite into the metal of the ATB. Nordlocks do as the metal made is tougher so the serations are harder and bite better than FTCs. Bolt technology has moved massively over the last few years and continues to do so .............as have locking compounds which we also use special stuff.........
Whilst I generally agree with what Nigel says, I can confirm that you have a generally valid point. I have had good results for a different (but parallel bolting option, albeit into softer facing materials by using longer bolts serated flanged bolts, sleeve tubes and Nordlock/NLX washers. Nordlocks are very good, but they do not add 'eleastic resiliance to the bolt. Using longer bolts allows more elastic strain/extension, so the rate of increase in stress is lower and allows distribution of forces/stress over more bolts and a better ability to take fatigue and shock loads. However adding more components where they can't easily be seen requirs very good confidence. Also I am not sure of how much space is available for much longer bolts. There are options for special bolts, reduced shank bolts and probably some custom Nordlocks, but for just a few bolts abd washers you could probably have a few replacement final drive units.
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Awesome video and diff
Great work ,attention to detail makes all the difference
mega squirt whats with these atbs? are they good for traction? or are they useless? im guessing anythings better than the stock rover
Why not cross drill the bolt heads and run safety wire through them? Like the brake caliper bolts on a racing motorcycle.
Problem is getting this grade and thread type with drilled holes ! - what you can buy tends to be metric pretty much thats it . Drilling this grade of bolt is near impossible and whilst we could get them spark eroded - that by the nature of the process weakens the metal. We have spend a considerable time considering wiring......found lots of hurdles and brick walls !
@@MegasquirtUK wire EDM might weaken the metal in some points, but do you think that weakness would actually affect the retention / shear strength of the bolt? I thought most wire EDM happened underwater, which would help keep things cool.
Also, thank you for your reply. You guys are clearly pros. I am just a curious hobbyist.
Is there any chance I could have ten minutes with this diff in a room with some mood lighting and a Barry White CD?
🤣 yes it is a bit like that !!!
So is this the type pf ATB I get if I purchase from ashcroft or no clutch packs?
No this is a prototype we have a few and 1 about to be raced and then stripped and checked
Only ones from Ashcroft’s are without plates
@@MegasquirtUK Can you perhaps do a video about the salisbury Ashcroft ATB if you have in at workshop next time please
@@jessewilmot2166 Thats never going to happen as we no longer do any work on Salisburys - we sold all our stock and all the special tools some while back !!
To reduce the chance of crown wheel bolts backing out do you think there's merit in running longer crown wheel bolts with a spacer under the head? Could give some more strain/elongation in the bolt to maintain clamping
No. Any sort of "Spacer" adds potential for issues, sometimes where you have to use them you just have to, that includes most washers flat or spings old technology.
The standard CW Bolts tend to stretch, and then when loose shear off, or if overload shear anyway even when tight. As you go up in Bolt strength 8.8 > 10.9 > 12.9 etc strength increases but so does brittality (Look up Glass bolt paradox). FTC5150 are pretty good, flanged head so larger surface area, and a serated head to bite into the steel etc, but these can shear as brittle.
Nordlocks are a clever option, serations 2 x sides and a cam locking system, and as here NLX are alos domed giving a spring washer additive too. Length is not as crucial, if the bolt shears thats the point where the Center mets the CW, stretching is due to overload and weaker bolt, what we have here is the best of what we think we can do, ATBs also being machined out of way tougher / harder steel than other diffs due to the 12 x Cylinders the gears run it mean FTCs don't really bite into the metal of the ATB. Nordlocks do as the metal made is tougher so the serations are harder and bite better than FTCs.
Bolt technology has moved massively over the last few years and continues to do so
.............as have locking compounds which we also use special stuff.........
Whilst I generally agree with what Nigel says, I can confirm that you have a generally valid point.
I have had good results for a different (but parallel bolting option, albeit into softer facing materials by using longer bolts serated flanged bolts, sleeve tubes and Nordlock/NLX washers. Nordlocks are very good, but they do not add 'eleastic resiliance to the bolt. Using longer bolts allows more elastic strain/extension, so the rate of increase in stress is lower and allows distribution of forces/stress over more bolts and a better ability to take fatigue and shock loads.
However adding more components where they can't easily be seen requirs very good confidence. Also I am not sure of how much space is available for much longer bolts.
There are options for special bolts, reduced shank bolts and probably some custom Nordlocks, but for just a few bolts abd washers you could probably have a few replacement final drive units.