Sorry for blowing up the comment section, but, one more thing. The free steel might be a good option for making tools for the shop, like tongs, punches, chisels, stands or mounting hardware, and forges. On another channel, the fella mentioned that even though a piece of steel is known to be 01 tool steel, the amount of alloys might not be the same from one manufacturer to the next. That being said, perhaps using mystery steel is a good option for a beginner bladesmith as free material to practice forging techniques used for making a knife. It turns out good, ya got yourself a shop knife, if its messed up, who cares, we learned from our mistakes, and the piece goes back to the scrap pile :)
I'm very happy that you encourage beginner makers to NOT buying scrap metal. I've seen a lot (A LOT!) of mest up forged and heat treated "railway spikes knives" (of course braked in half). Every time there was also a sour and sadness, because the expectations was different. Me and Erick would say that 5160 is the most forgiveness steel you can use as a beginner. I've never tried 1080-1095 so I cant tell anything about them. The only thing I disagree (and this is just personal) is that this leaning back line not flow with the knife line- It actually create less disturbance (not sure if its a right word) with a plunge line than this one you left. Great episode Airin :)!
This is interesting Dawid! Please elaborate over email, maybe send me a quick drawing showing the way you would do it! I would love another artists view! Cheers mate
excellent, a back to basics build, well happy to see you doing this, having said that as someone that forges my blades I have found I learn far more forging out from different steels and different profile steels so although I see your point with known flat stock there is the alternative that if forging then things like old coil springs are a great teacher as well, but then having said that there is also much to be learned from watching someone such as yourself that explains properly how to do things and why as many of us have much to learn and being shown how is brilliant, so yet again thanks for showing us how to, it is very much appreciated
That’s going to be an awesome knife. I’ve been taking 12”x 1.5” 1095, cutting them in half and knocking out 6” ECD knifes. Each one turns out better than the last one. Keep up the great work.
I use both salvaged steels and known knife steels to make knives. I enjoy using both, and there's no reason that knife makers can't use both. There's are philosophies out there that go both ways. Some people only want to use salvaged steels and some people only want to use purchased known knife steels. It's quite possible to do both and be successful. And there's nothing wrong with that. The more you know, the more you know.
Agreed, the point to this is if your just starting out use known steel to up your initial level of success. Imagine spending hours and hours to make your first knife just to find out it won't hold an edge. A lot of people would be discouraged at that point and could possible quit all together
As a beginner 💯 get a known steel, as you get the knowledge and experience then try salvaged, as in some past video airin used salvaged, this comes with experience
Awesome job, bruv. Just what we need; a back to basics masterclass to remind us to get the basics right. Love it!! Best knife-making channel on UA-cam! 💪🏻 🤜💥🤛
This I really appreciated and liked ,I have been looking at knife design for beginners this was fabulous , it kept the KISS principle keep it simple stupid lol I am really looking forward to this series ,please believe your time and effort in supplying these videos is greatly appreciated even from across the pond once again thanks
I have been using a double edged German (Merkur) for 40 yrs. “I love the shave results” Have you or have you thought about making a wicked straight edge folding razor? I’ve been wanting one of these for years and years. I got one for Christmas once but the blade quality just isn’t satisfactory. To purchase one that has an outstanding blade and is just appealing to hold in the hand and you just look forward to using every morning is pricey, I just can’t seem to drop the hammer on the cost of one.
When I had less experience I practiced my skills on mystery steel, knowing the result would illustrate my inexperience as a smith and my poor choice of steels. Now that I sell my product I wouldn't dream of using anything but known steel, and I've found that using the same one, in my case 1084, allows me to nail down what works best for that steel.
I learned the hard way when I used hot rolled, by the time I got it almost flat, the piece was way too thin for its intended use. It may become a paring knife someday, who knows. Yes to PRECISION GROUND!
That is exactly what I feel when I design my knife! The flawnes of the handle...and I also drow with a pencil first and then with a pen. By the way,can I send you some design's of min?
I agree with you when it comes to stock removal. But steel isnt that cheap unless you have a steel supplier near that sells hi-carbon steel. Otherwise it will have to be shipped. Then the price of steel goes way up. Just 1 piece of steel thats 1/8 thick, 1 inch wide and 18 inches long is around 8-12 dollars depend on the steel. But shipping is around 17-24 dollars. Again shipping depends on who you buy from (I looked at Jantz, New Jeresy Steel Barron, tool steel service, Blacksmiths depot). So 1 piece is a bit more expensive than what is portrayed. But with that said. Everything else is true you stated, for stock removal.
I sometimes forget because I buy in bulk! I do still think that in the whole scheme of things the steel is the least expensive part. I sometimes spend over 20 hours working on a piece. I am working on one right now for the dagger challenge that I easily have 30 hours in it so the cost of the steel was minimal comparatively speaking.
@@Aleeknives I try to buy in bulk just because of the cost of shipping. Belts tend to be the cheapest. The average belt is between 4-6 dollars. So in cost of Materials alone, grinding would be the cheaper route...however, how much is your time worth? Which is why I try to get precision ground stock when doing stock removal. I was only pointing out the cost because many beginners are on a budget, and I don't believe you are trying to mislead anyone or steer them wrong. But great videos, keep it up man. I enjoy them and watch them frequently.
why not 5160? i did a good knife with it, it doesnt loose the sharpening after i wack it against a piece of wood, it just gets some little scratches that i fix with a little sanding. But i do agree that the knifes i made from 1095 are far better
@@Aleeknives I would disagree with you there bud. I can buy known 5160 locally. Also, when shopping at njsb, pops, or jantz online, I’ve never seen 5160 out of stock, whereas 10xx steels are more often out of stock than in stock. While I agree with your philosophy, using known steels when you are getting started, I think you should include 5160 in your recommendations for beginners. Also, the heat treat is more forgiving than 1095.
Everyone should at least spend a day of their life pounding railroad spikes into knives and gadgets, it’s basically how I learned how to manipulate steel from the forge , because nothing gives you practical experience and practice on the comprehension of what it actually takes to forge metal and make metal move and go where you want it to, but I whole heartedly agree with the buying of quality steel for a quality knife , I make knives to sell , so by all means, good steel is a must . But railroad steel is great for practice and learning how to manipulate metal and forging coat racks for your wife 😂
1095 isn't a great steel for beginners. Does it work? Sure. I agree that 5160 and 108X are the best options for new makers. I started with 1095 because people keep saying that simple carbon steels are the easiest, but 1095 really shouldn't be in that group.
That sucks I just purchased 10 blades from waterjet thinking 1095 would be a good beginner steel. Is it hard to heat treat or something? I'm like you everyone seems to be using it
@@richardbranton2780 1095 gets an optimal hardness with a 5 minute soak at critical temperature. 1084 only needs to get to its harden temp before quench. The assumption is that beginning knife makers would be using a basic forge or torch for heat treating, which make it difficult at best to get a soak if not impossible. That said, 1095 will harden without the soak, but won't be the best blade it can be. Another good option is to pay a few bucks to have your blades professionally heat-treated.
@@benr8772 absolutely correct. I heard "simple steels are best for beginners" and bought some 1095 from Jantz. I made a bunch of stock removal knives and they're sharp. I even made a few with a hamon. Now, having a HT oven and parks I can say that they're much, much better than they used to be.
OR.... spend no money on steel that you are learning your hammering techniques, color differences, and timing on so you aren't throwing $10-$15 in the trash. Unless you're just doing stock removal. Though theres plenty of skills to be learned within that technique that you can do on free steel. Or, just use your credit cards - you get everything for free by using those.
The information this fella gives is gold. For any new knife makers…….listen to this guy.
Absolute legend 👍👌
Thank you!
Sorry for blowing up the comment section, but, one more thing. The free steel might be a good option for making tools for the shop, like tongs, punches, chisels, stands or mounting hardware, and forges. On another channel, the fella mentioned that even though a piece of steel is known to be 01 tool steel, the amount of alloys might not be the same from one manufacturer to the next. That being said, perhaps using mystery steel is a good option for a beginner bladesmith as free material to practice forging techniques used for making a knife. It turns out good, ya got yourself a shop knife, if its messed up, who cares, we learned from our mistakes, and the piece goes back to the scrap pile :)
I'm very happy that you encourage beginner makers to NOT buying scrap metal. I've seen a lot (A LOT!) of mest up forged and heat treated "railway spikes knives" (of course braked in half). Every time there was also a sour and sadness, because the expectations was different. Me and Erick would say that 5160 is the most forgiveness steel you can use as a beginner. I've never tried 1080-1095 so I cant tell anything about them.
The only thing I disagree (and this is just personal) is that this leaning back line not flow with the knife line- It actually create less disturbance (not sure if its a right word) with a plunge line than this one you left.
Great episode Airin :)!
This is interesting Dawid! Please elaborate over email, maybe send me a quick drawing showing the way you would do it! I would love another artists view! Cheers mate
@@Aleeknives Sure I'll sent you a few designs:).
excellent, a back to basics build, well happy to see you doing this, having said that as someone that forges my blades I have found I learn far more forging out from different steels and different profile steels so although I see your point with known flat stock there is the alternative that if forging then things like old coil springs are a great teacher as well, but then having said that there is also much to be learned from watching someone such as yourself that explains properly how to do things and why as many of us have much to learn and being shown how is brilliant, so yet again thanks for showing us how to, it is very much appreciated
100%
That’s going to be an awesome knife. I’ve been taking 12”x 1.5” 1095, cutting them in half and knocking out 6” ECD knifes. Each one turns out better than the last one. Keep up the great work.
I love that Robert!
I use both salvaged steels and known knife steels to make knives. I enjoy using both, and there's no reason that knife makers can't use both. There's are philosophies out there that go both ways. Some people only want to use salvaged steels and some people only want to use purchased known knife steels. It's quite possible to do both and be successful. And there's nothing wrong with that. The more you know, the more you know.
Agreed, the point to this is if your just starting out use known steel to up your initial level of success. Imagine spending hours and hours to make your first knife just to find out it won't hold an edge. A lot of people would be discouraged at that point and could possible quit all together
As a beginner 💯 get a known steel, as you get the knowledge and experience then try salvaged, as in some past video airin used salvaged, this comes with experience
Chris nailed it!
I keep some mystery steel around for my kid to heat and beat. He's not really making anything yet, just enjoying the process.
Awesome job, bruv. Just what we need; a back to basics masterclass to remind us to get the basics right.
Love it!! Best knife-making channel on UA-cam! 💪🏻
🤜💥🤛
Thank you Pete!
This I really appreciated and liked ,I have been looking at knife design for beginners this was fabulous , it kept the KISS principle keep it simple stupid lol I am really looking forward to this series ,please believe your time and effort in supplying these videos is greatly appreciated even from across the pond once again thanks
You got it Mark! Cheers
As an aside, sometimes your videos are so relaxing, it's like watching an episode of Bob Ross :)
Mad I appreciate that!
Thank you
Very welcome!
Looking forward to watching this series!
Thank you!
What a good shiny metal to add into a damascus billet? Something that’ll have good contrast. Thanks!
15n20 or any high nickle content steel.
@@Aleeknives awesome! Thanks!
I have been using a double edged German (Merkur) for 40 yrs. “I love the shave results” Have you or have you thought about making a wicked straight edge folding razor? I’ve been wanting one of these for years and years. I got one for Christmas once but the blade quality just isn’t satisfactory. To purchase one that has an outstanding blade and is just appealing to hold in the hand and you just look forward to using every morning is pricey, I just can’t seem to drop the hammer on the cost of one.
When I had less experience I practiced my skills on mystery steel, knowing the result would illustrate my inexperience as a smith and my poor choice of steels. Now that I sell my product I wouldn't dream of using anything but known steel, and I've found that using the same one, in my case 1084, allows me to nail down what works best for that steel.
im glad i learned some things on scrap.
Fluid Art Exactly 💯
Yeah buddy!
I learned the hard way when I used hot rolled, by the time I got it almost flat, the piece was way too thin for its intended use. It may become a paring knife someday, who knows. Yes to PRECISION GROUND!
That is exactly what I feel when I design my knife! The flawnes of the handle...and I also drow with a pencil first and then with a pen.
By the way,can I send you some design's of min?
Love this! Airinlee@swbell.net
Awesome, I'm also following along and doing a knife build with your knife build
Just do what I did..drop about 4.5k into equipment and materials and just spend a zillion hours figuring it out lol
Love your vids, Airin! Have learned a ton from you. Where do you get precision ground steel? I have trouble finding it
I buy from the new jersey steel baron
@@Aleeknives great, thanks!
I agree with you when it comes to stock removal. But steel isnt that cheap unless you have a steel supplier near that sells hi-carbon steel. Otherwise it will have to be shipped. Then the price of steel goes way up. Just 1 piece of steel thats 1/8 thick, 1 inch wide and 18 inches long is around 8-12 dollars depend on the steel. But shipping is around 17-24 dollars. Again shipping depends on who you buy from (I looked at Jantz, New Jeresy Steel Barron, tool steel service, Blacksmiths depot). So 1 piece is a bit more expensive than what is portrayed. But with that said. Everything else is true you stated, for stock removal.
I sometimes forget because I buy in bulk! I do still think that in the whole scheme of things the steel is the least expensive part. I sometimes spend over 20 hours working on a piece. I am working on one right now for the dagger challenge that I easily have 30 hours in it so the cost of the steel was minimal comparatively speaking.
@@Aleeknives I try to buy in bulk just because of the cost of shipping. Belts tend to be the cheapest. The average belt is between 4-6 dollars. So in cost of Materials alone, grinding would be the cheaper route...however, how much is your time worth? Which is why I try to get precision ground stock when doing stock removal. I was only pointing out the cost because many beginners are on a budget, and I don't believe you are trying to mislead anyone or steer them wrong. But great videos, keep it up man. I enjoy them and watch them frequently.
Thank you!
why not 5160? i did a good knife with it, it doesnt loose the sharpening after i wack it against a piece of wood, it just gets some little scratches that i fix with a little sanding. But i do agree that the knifes i made from 1095 are far better
5160 is definitely a good steel also just not as readily available as the other 2
@@Aleeknives I would disagree with you there bud. I can buy known 5160 locally. Also, when shopping at njsb, pops, or jantz online, I’ve never seen 5160 out of stock, whereas 10xx steels are more often out of stock than in stock. While I agree with your philosophy, using known steels when you are getting started, I think you should include 5160 in your recommendations for beginners. Also, the heat treat is more forgiving than 1095.
Will do
Everyone should at least spend a day of their life pounding railroad spikes into knives and gadgets, it’s basically how I learned how to manipulate steel from the forge , because nothing gives you practical experience and practice on the comprehension of what it actually takes to forge metal and make metal move and go where you want it to, but I whole heartedly agree with the buying of quality steel for a quality knife , I make knives to sell , so by all means, good steel is a must . But railroad steel is great for practice and learning how to manipulate metal and forging coat racks for your wife 😂
I agree with your choice of steel for stock removal. Mystery steels obtained free or near free are good choices for learning to forge to shape.
Yes sir
1095 isn't a great steel for beginners. Does it work? Sure. I agree that 5160 and 108X are the best options for new makers. I started with 1095 because people keep saying that simple carbon steels are the easiest, but 1095 really shouldn't be in that group.
That sucks I just purchased 10 blades from waterjet thinking 1095 would be a good beginner steel. Is it hard to heat treat or something? I'm like you everyone seems to be using it
@@richardbranton2780 1095 gets an optimal hardness with a 5 minute soak at critical temperature. 1084 only needs to get to its harden temp before quench. The assumption is that beginning knife makers would be using a basic forge or torch for heat treating, which make it difficult at best to get a soak if not impossible. That said, 1095 will harden without the soak, but won't be the best blade it can be. Another good option is to pay a few bucks to have your blades professionally heat-treated.
@@benr8772 thanks for the info I would hate to mess up my blades. Their is a forge here in town maybe I can get him to harden them for me
@@richardbranton2780 cool! Good to have local support. Perhaps they'll be open to some interesting conversations and advice!
@@benr8772 absolutely correct. I heard "simple steels are best for beginners" and bought some 1095 from Jantz. I made a bunch of stock removal knives and they're sharp. I even made a few with a hamon. Now, having a HT oven and parks I can say that they're much, much better than they used to be.
OR.... spend no money on steel that you are learning your hammering techniques, color differences, and timing on so you aren't throwing $10-$15 in the trash. Unless you're just doing stock removal. Though theres plenty of skills to be learned within that technique that you can do on free steel. Or, just use your credit cards - you get everything for free by using those.
🤣😂