Lot of hate in the comments, pointing out this and that, and “let me show you how to do something I’ve never done”. I appreciate seeing someone try to do this themselves. No one who owns a lathe and proper tooling is watching this for a “how to”, and those of us that don’t have the lathe, tools, knowledge, or money to throw away trying to learn, just watch for entertainment only. Doesn’t matter to me if it “won’t shoot a 2 inch group” I don’t care if it shoots around corners, and the round piles into the ground at 50 yards, he’s trying. Not affecting anyone watching in a negative way. If someone has the thousands of dollars of tools, and only watch one UA-cam video before building a barrel, well, some people don’t need accurate rifles.
Appreciate that you take the time to review the comments, though many are hostile most of the time. Enjoyed the 10mm 1911 as well. Gotta give credit where credit is due, you put in a lot of effort and allow others to learn as you go, good or bad, you dont edit it out to make it appear as something its not. And some of us really appreciate it. Thank you again sir.
I agree that any hostility is unneeded and unfair. I also agree it awesome that he shares his efforts. As someone who left a few suggestions in the hope that advice helps someone avoid mistakes I've made in the past myself. Not everyone is here to hate. signed.. A gun smith with a lathe and lots of reamers.... :)
I would only have prebored the chamber far enough for the pilot on the reamer to engage with the bore, plus as others have said use a small boring bar rather than a two flute drill. You can see in the video the drill, particularly the second one is moving around as it enters, and you can also see the reamer doing so, as the pilot is not engaged in the bore. Just from an engineering perspective this is not the optimal way to ensure concentricity with the bore, which will obviously affect accuracy
I like to use a tool presetter(blue box with a plunger on a tenths dial) to get a refference when manual machining. It give you a perfect 2" refference every time.
how are you holding those drills bits? you can see a fair amount of deflection as you enter and exit the bore then a significant shift as you rotate it by hand. everything else looked good to go.
Hi there and thanks for your wonderful video . I have a question if you could help me with ?!? Im trying to make a barrel fit to 7.92×57 bullet . Im wondering how much should be the diameters of barrel in order to let the bullet run smoothly in it ? Because i dont think i should make it exact dize of bullet as it has to have room to move !!! Another question , See how you have a bit narrow part on top part of bullet ? Should i make the exact shape to fit the shape of bullet or is it ok if i take the fat part of bullet as a measure for whole ??? Because then this time the actual bullet will have too much room on it's way and it might swing around in barrel as it go ??? .many thanks 🌹
Making a barrel from scratch is beyond my capability. If you want to do something similar to what I did here, you'll need to buy a barrel blank for 8mm Mauser and the appropriate reamer, something like these: www.lothar-walther.com/gun-barrel-blanks/rifle-barrels/standard-usa/1174/barrel-blank-twist-10-8mm-od-1.26-l-28.03-cr-moly-steel pacifictoolandgauge.com/8-mm-99-mm-chamber-reamers-nopix-/15474-8mm-mauser-8x57-saami-chamber-reamer.html
Again , many thanks fir your quick reply . What you are saying is a professional approach indeed . But where i live here , i have no access to any of those materials that i need . So there for i have no choice but to do it with what i can get my hand to . Any way apriciated so much for your time .
Production time is slow the arrow arrow already got ya . Awesome insight I love it. Kidding man definitely going to save money on a single shot 50 barrel now though!
That thing on the end of that reamer is a guide put there to avoid the off centre hole you caused by using the drill bit, hence the runout visible when you put the reamer in and the existence of a roughing reamer, which would also have a centre guide. Remember, drill bits like that only self centre when in the hole far enough to have four contact points, the first bit they only have two. An easy way to solve this is to bore the hole accurately deep enough to guide the drill bit on centre. Also, slow down you spindle speed, it's too fast.
He would have been fine with the twist drill had he set it up correctly 😂 He’s also just flat out using the reamer incorrectly. That shit cuts on the little chamfer corner of the tip of the reamers flutes. But it also requires you feed it at a very constant rpm and feed. It’s like a supported multifaced boring bar. It’ll only follow the hole you give it. It also matters how much material you give it to cut. This shit is truly an art.
While I have done the same in past as short as that chamber is I would have used a small boring bar. Without a pilot that drill can walk. I have had it happen before. If you are going to use drills try and get a three flute drill or even an end mill.
He just didn’t set up his stuff properly. No reason he can’t use a twist drill IF he dials all stuff in. But it looks like he kinda blew it by starting with a misaligned tailstock, a cheap black oxide and crooked drill, as well as not giving it a spot to start.
Your tailstock alignment appears to be a few thousandths off to one side. Replay video and watch drill bit entry I suspect that I had watched the bit retraction closely that it may show something too.
He didn't even use a diel indicator to check for center of the bore. You never use a reamer that way and you can see the chamber is going to out of round and off center. This is as bad as a gunsmith I did meet that said he used Black and Decker power tools - grinders and hand drills to chamber barrels & to make barrels and grind on trigger sears to lighten the trigger pull and that fool is Rich Ryle with evolution arms from Colorado Springs Colorado so stay clear of that clown. Good thing he isn't a gunsmith
@@Lure-Benson Your correct the head stock and tail stock were not in alignment. He won't make a out of round chamber but it will be oversize. Also the way he predrilled the the chamber the pilot on the reamer was not engaged in the lands of the barrel in the begining. I'll bet the front of the chamber was not centered on the lands.
@@gappmast9712 I'm pretty sure we both can agree on that barrel is going to be really F ed up! I think I can say for sure whatever that barrel goes on the gun is going to shoot worse than a garbage rod Mosin and an AK. I even went to the Pacific tool & gauge reamers with the pilot baring on the end of the reamer not to chip or scar up the lands at the end of the chamber throat. I just today I sent out a Pac nor super march barrel to be chambered in 375-300 WSM for an AR 10 using a Pacific tool & gauge reamer to Mark Manson in AZ.
@@Lure-Benson You will be happy with your Pac Nor barrel. They and a few other high end barrel makers hone their barrels before rifling. They hone make sure the size and diameter is exact from one end to the other. I sold them their first hone it was lost in the fire and they bought a second hone when they rebuilt after the fire. Pac Nor are good people
Reaming a chamber is a subject with a lot of FUD. The hand reaming of the last few thou is a perfect example. A properly setup machine is way more accurate than a human hand. That said, the BIG problem I see here is the introduction of non-concentric holes, not concentric with the bore or the shoulder, because of the use of 35 deg. drill bits. You can see the lack of concentricity with the naked eye. And the reamer, while making the hole round-ish, will wobble and will continue the out of round cutting if it's held on a not floating holder. So much effort for bad results.... A solution would be to use a 4 jaw chuck and bore gauges of 4-6" stick-out to ensure shoulder and bore concentricity on the initial setup. This extra work is what produces good results. Then use a gun drill under the minor diameter of the case to "hog" the material. This second step could be avoided by just using a roughing reamer to "hog" the chamber. Slow, with a lot of oil is the recipe for long reamer life. Not sure if you want advice, but I hope this helps someone.
@2:29 the bit jumps. Your tailstock or toolpost/toolholder is mis aligned. You work is out of round to start. Do not trust self aligning chucks for anything serious.
Actually no... if you set up the barrel the right way even with a floating reamer it will run straight. The bore of the barrel is supposed to be trued up in the lathe... he didn't exactly do that.
I was watching it based off a chip on the cross slide way’s definitely looks like his bore is off by a tho or two not much but definitely had me curious if it was enough to cause any issues honestly with the way ARs are designed I’m sure just so long as it fits into the lands it’ll run may make for poor reloadabiilty of the fired cases tho
I'm guessing you're just talking about the case head. The primer takes up part of that space, but other than that, it's mostly solid, so doesn't directly need support by the barrel. I suppose it could, however, limit how high you can go on the pressures.
@@jayphilipwilliams Sorry, I know you're an expert, but I have some concerns and questions that aren't always addressed. The depth of the 556 bolt is .125 by default and I believe there should be a gap of .004 to .006", which gives a total of .129 to .131" of cartridge protusion. The concern I have is that a non-standard bolt with a depth greater than .125, say, .130 plus a gap of .004 would give .134". Is there no such concern? Because a bolt with this specification mentioned would mean that the cartridge would stick out of the breech too much and would be dangerous.
sorry man but at your speeds and feeds, Roughing the chamber isn’t going to increase your tool life really. Roughing the chamber is more of a production CNC thing. Where they’re cutting the chamber at 6000 rpm’s in literally about one second using a carbide reamer. Preboring is one thing but roughing the chamber with a drill bit is just gonna result in cutting some of the chamber without the pilot of the reamer guiding the cut. At your speeds and feeds, Use a finish reamer for the entire thing at about 200rpms. You’ll get about 20-40 chambers before the tooling dulls.
Turning the reamer in the wrong direction even the slightest amount is cringe worse than long nails on a chalkboard or watching someone chew gravel, shouldn’t do it.
Chrome lined bores is only to prevent corrosion from corrosive ammo and tropical climates. It isn't for accuracy firearms UA-cam is filled with nonsense ignorant crap
Chrome lined barrels are referring to chrome plating on the rifled bore. The objective is to make the bore last longer and result in less copper fouling by smoothing the interior bearing surface. The chamber is never chromed, to my knowledge. Matter of fact, you don't want the chamber super smooth. You will see people use emery cloth to ruff the chamber after cutting and polishing. This is to help the brass cling to the chamber as it expands during the firing sequence. As the pressure subsides, the case will shrink slightly, allowing it to be extracted easier. Hope this clears up the question.
@@derekturner3272 It amazes me ignorant teenage UA-cam groupie parrot mouth talking like you repeat the same false garbage over and over. Chrome lined barrels have only one reason is to prevent corrosion from corrosive primers and used in tropical climates not anything to do with copper fouling.
@@Lure-Benson Yes, that was the original reason in the 20's and 30's. You are half correct. But you are a full and complete asshole. Now that we have non-corrosive primers and barrel manufacturers still offering it as an option, even in competition barrels. Hum... I guess they must assume the competitions will be in tropical climates using some old Russian idiots ammo from when grandpa was shot by his own side for trying to surrender or run away.
That's pretty normal. The drill will basically just centering itself, and unless you chuck it up in a collet, the drill bit will probably have some run out
I agree. As I said in the video, I didn't center the barrel up using the gage pin when I turned the profile. However, I doubt that will make any difference. On the next barrel I make, I will definitely do that.
@@jayphilipwilliams Waiting to see your next barrel, I'm not a builder ... But I would like to build a new 223 Wylde barrel too ... And no video shows all the steps correct ... thanks for your video and effort ...Phil
@@jayphilipwilliams One thing I saw is that first you need to center the barrel between two counter points ... And then turn the barrel to equalize the thickness between the inlet and outlet hole ... After that all the other processes ... But the videos I'm not very clear ... I work as a 3D CAD mechanical designer ...
@@fabiomigliorini2004 I will definitely do another barrel and will record how it goes. I hope I'll do better at a few of the steps. Thanks for watching.
Ummm , let me show you how to do something I’ve never done before? Do you have an outboard spider. Did you check the inner bore concentricity and alignment with a ground bar? (Test indicate) I don’t think you should be doing this type of work or showing others this approach. Trial and error gun smithing is dangerous in my opinion. It’s why I don’t do it.
Fact: The most inaccurate way to drill a hole, is with a twist drill. Center both ends of your machine. Use a boring bar to enlarge the holes. Is that a live round your using? You chucked up your barrel without using brass or copper. Watch some YT video’s and get knowledge from real Machinists and Gunsmiths. With your set-up you can get good results. Go slow and take measurement a lot.
1He's using a reamer so a twist drill does fine 2 you would need a quarter inch carbide boring bar to bore that hole. How much does that run, about 300$ I would guess. And it will still probably break when hitting those grooves/lands 3 the outside finish of the barrel is not critical for accuracy 4 this is a dude in a garage not a machine shop or a gunsmith
Yes. Get the chamber as close to the dimensions of the reamer and finishing it off with the reamer. More precised. I think a reamer is not a drilling toll. Its more of boring.
Came on a little strong there man, what you meant to say was if it was a finished hole to use a boring bar. There is nothing wrong with use a twist drill here with the existing through hole folles by a reamer. I do agree with using some copper pads.
Thats like my grandfather work, old school way. Normally, for made that operation, need a complete measurement equipment and procedure. Enjoy but be carefull. Dont stop!
Good thing you aren't a gunsmith. That chamber you can see is going to be out of round and that isn't the way a reamed is properly held in the lathe and you didn't even use a diel indicator to check for center of bore to the reamer center to the bore .
Lot of hate in the comments, pointing out this and that, and “let me show you how to do something I’ve never done”. I appreciate seeing someone try to do this themselves. No one who owns a lathe and proper tooling is watching this for a “how to”, and those of us that don’t have the lathe, tools, knowledge, or money to throw away trying to learn, just watch for entertainment only. Doesn’t matter to me if it “won’t shoot a 2 inch group” I don’t care if it shoots around corners, and the round piles into the ground at 50 yards, he’s trying. Not affecting anyone watching in a negative way. If someone has the thousands of dollars of tools, and only watch one UA-cam video before building a barrel, well, some people don’t need accurate rifles.
Appreciate that you take the time to review the comments, though many are hostile most of the time. Enjoyed the 10mm 1911 as well. Gotta give credit where credit is due, you put in a lot of effort and allow others to learn as you go, good or bad, you dont edit it out to make it appear as something its not. And some of us really appreciate it. Thank you again sir.
I agree that any hostility is unneeded and unfair. I also agree it awesome that he shares his efforts. As someone who left a few suggestions in the hope that advice helps someone avoid mistakes I've made in the past myself. Not everyone is here to hate. signed.. A gun smith with a lathe and lots of reamers.... :)
I would only have prebored the chamber far enough for the pilot on the reamer to engage with the bore, plus as others have said use a small boring bar rather than a two flute drill. You can see in the video the drill, particularly the second one is moving around as it enters, and you can also see the reamer doing so, as the pilot is not engaged in the bore.
Just from an engineering perspective this is not the optimal way to ensure concentricity with the bore, which will obviously affect accuracy
I would say tail-stock out of alignment as it's pulling sideways
Your bit isn't centered. With both bits you can see side pressure and flexing of your bit. Need to center that up.
I like to use a tool presetter(blue box with a plunger on a tenths dial) to get a refference when manual machining. It give you a perfect 2" refference every time.
how are you holding those drills bits? you can see a fair amount of deflection as you enter and exit the bore then a significant shift as you rotate it by hand. everything else looked good to go.
The tail stock is not adjusted properly
Hi there and thanks for your wonderful video .
I have a question if you could help me with ?!?
Im trying to make a barrel fit to 7.92×57 bullet .
Im wondering how much should be the diameters of barrel in order to let the bullet run smoothly in it ?
Because i dont think i should make it exact dize of bullet as it has to have room to move !!!
Another question ,
See how you have a bit narrow part on top part of bullet ? Should i make the exact shape to fit the shape of bullet or is it ok if i take the fat part of bullet as a measure for whole ???
Because then this time the actual bullet will have too much room on it's way and it might swing around in barrel as it go ???
.many thanks
🌹
Making a barrel from scratch is beyond my capability. If you want to do something similar to what I did here, you'll need to buy a barrel blank for 8mm Mauser and the appropriate reamer, something like these:
www.lothar-walther.com/gun-barrel-blanks/rifle-barrels/standard-usa/1174/barrel-blank-twist-10-8mm-od-1.26-l-28.03-cr-moly-steel
pacifictoolandgauge.com/8-mm-99-mm-chamber-reamers-nopix-/15474-8mm-mauser-8x57-saami-chamber-reamer.html
Again , many thanks fir your quick reply .
What you are saying is a professional approach indeed .
But where i live here , i have no access to any of those materials that i need .
So there for i have no choice but to do it with what i can get my hand to .
Any way apriciated so much for your time .
Production time is slow the arrow arrow already got ya . Awesome insight I love it. Kidding man definitely going to save money on a single shot 50 barrel now though!
That thing on the end of that reamer is a guide put there to avoid the off centre hole you caused by using the drill bit, hence the runout visible when you put the reamer in and the existence of a roughing reamer, which would also have a centre guide. Remember, drill bits like that only self centre when in the hole far enough to have four contact points, the first bit they only have two. An easy way to solve this is to bore the hole accurately deep enough to guide the drill bit on centre. Also, slow down you spindle speed, it's too fast.
He would have been fine with the twist drill had he set it up correctly 😂
He’s also just flat out using the reamer incorrectly.
That shit cuts on the little chamfer corner of the tip of the reamers flutes. But it also requires you feed it at a very constant rpm and feed. It’s like a supported multifaced boring bar. It’ll only follow the hole you give it. It also matters how much material you give it to cut.
This shit is truly an art.
While I have done the same in past as short as that chamber is I would have used a small boring bar. Without a pilot that drill can walk. I have had it happen before. If you are going to use drills try and get a three flute drill or even an end mill.
I think it did. Reamers are a slave to the hole and it was walking on the way in.
He just didn’t set up his stuff properly. No reason he can’t use a twist drill IF he dials all stuff in. But it looks like he kinda blew it by starting with a misaligned tailstock, a cheap black oxide and crooked drill, as well as not giving it a spot to start.
Your tailstock alignment appears to be a few thousandths off to one side. Replay video and watch drill bit entry I suspect that I had watched the bit retraction closely that it may show something too.
He didn't even use a diel indicator to check for center of the bore.
You never use a reamer that way and you can see the chamber is going to out of round and off center.
This is as bad as a gunsmith I did meet that said he used Black and Decker power tools - grinders and hand drills to chamber barrels & to make barrels and grind on trigger sears to lighten the trigger pull and that fool is Rich Ryle with evolution arms from Colorado Springs Colorado so stay clear of that clown.
Good thing he isn't a gunsmith
Came here to say this.
@@Lure-Benson Your correct the head stock and tail stock were not in alignment. He won't make a out of round chamber but it will be oversize. Also the way he predrilled the the chamber the pilot on the reamer was not engaged in the lands of the barrel in the begining. I'll bet the front of the chamber was not centered on the lands.
@@gappmast9712 I'm pretty sure we both can agree on that barrel is going to be really F ed up!
I think I can say for sure whatever that barrel goes on the gun is going to shoot worse than a garbage rod Mosin and an AK.
I even went to the Pacific tool & gauge reamers with the pilot baring on the end of the reamer not to chip or scar up the lands at the end of the chamber throat.
I just today I sent out a Pac nor super march barrel to be chambered in 375-300 WSM for an AR 10 using a Pacific tool & gauge reamer to Mark Manson in AZ.
@@Lure-Benson You will be happy with your Pac Nor barrel. They and a few other high end barrel makers hone their barrels before rifling. They hone make sure the size and diameter is exact from one end to the other. I sold them their first hone it was lost in the fire and they bought a second hone when they rebuilt after the fire. Pac Nor are good people
wobblying due to drilling acentrical
The yaw of the reamer shows me your bore isn’t dialed in
Reaming a chamber is a subject with a lot of FUD. The hand reaming of the last few thou is a perfect example. A properly setup machine is way more accurate than a human hand. That said, the BIG problem I see here is the introduction of non-concentric holes, not concentric with the bore or the shoulder, because of the use of 35 deg. drill bits. You can see the lack of concentricity with the naked eye. And the reamer, while making the hole round-ish, will wobble and will continue the out of round cutting if it's held on a not floating holder. So much effort for bad results....
A solution would be to use a 4 jaw chuck and bore gauges of 4-6" stick-out to ensure shoulder and bore concentricity on the initial setup. This extra work is what produces good results. Then use a gun drill under the minor diameter of the case to "hog" the material. This second step could be avoided by just using a roughing reamer to "hog" the chamber. Slow, with a lot of oil is the recipe for long reamer life.
Not sure if you want advice, but I hope this helps someone.
@2:29 the bit jumps. Your tailstock or toolpost/toolholder is mis aligned. You work is out of round to start. Do not trust self aligning chucks for anything serious.
Is it normal for a chambering reamer to move back and forth like it’s got runout?
Its a “floating” reamer so yes!
Actually no... if you set up the barrel the right way even with a floating reamer it will run straight. The bore of the barrel is supposed to be trued up in the lathe... he didn't exactly do that.
I was watching it based off a chip on the cross slide way’s definitely looks like his bore is off by a tho or two not much but definitely had me curious if it was enough to cause any issues honestly with the way ARs are designed I’m sure just so long as it fits into the lands it’ll run may make for poor reloadabiilty of the fired cases tho
what is the protusion of the cartridge out of the breech in the .223rem or 556 NATO barrel?
I'm guessing you're just talking about the case head. The primer takes up part of that space, but other than that, it's mostly solid, so doesn't directly need support by the barrel. I suppose it could, however, limit how high you can go on the pressures.
@@jayphilipwilliams Sorry, I know you're an expert, but I have some concerns and questions that aren't always addressed. The depth of the 556 bolt is .125 by default and I believe there should be a gap of .004 to .006", which gives a total of .129 to .131" of cartridge protusion. The concern I have is that a non-standard bolt with a depth greater than .125, say, .130 plus a gap of .004 would give .134". Is there no such concern? Because a bolt with this specification mentioned would mean that the cartridge would stick out of the breech too much and would be dangerous.
sorry man but at your speeds and feeds, Roughing the chamber isn’t going to increase your tool life really.
Roughing the chamber is more of a production CNC thing. Where they’re cutting the chamber at 6000 rpm’s in literally about one second using a carbide reamer.
Preboring is one thing but roughing the chamber with a drill bit is just gonna result in cutting some of the chamber without the pilot of the reamer guiding the cut.
At your speeds and feeds, Use a finish reamer for the entire thing at about 200rpms. You’ll get about 20-40 chambers before the tooling dulls.
Good job
5:06 What kind of reamer is this?
Good job man love u from India Punjab Amritsar
don't turn it away from the cut you could chip the blades.
Turning the reamer in the wrong direction even the slightest amount is cringe worse than long nails on a chalkboard or watching someone chew gravel, shouldn’t do it.
@@shanewebber8704 this video was hard to watch
Best to round off the corner between the feed chamfer and the chamber wall for reliable feeding
Thanks for the tip!
Flex-hone makes excellent chamber hones, better than ScotchBrite at least.
Sir , nice job, my question is "is the chamber having chrome plate Or can be use without chrome shining? I need guidance please
I don't believe chrome plating is normal on chambers. I think it's just something that some manufacturers do, but isn't necessary.
Chrome lined bores is only to prevent corrosion from corrosive ammo and tropical climates.
It isn't for accuracy firearms UA-cam is filled with nonsense ignorant crap
Chrome lined barrels are referring to chrome plating on the rifled bore. The objective is to make the bore last longer and result in less copper fouling by smoothing the interior bearing surface. The chamber is never chromed, to my knowledge. Matter of fact, you don't want the chamber super smooth. You will see people use emery cloth to ruff the chamber after cutting and polishing. This is to help the brass cling to the chamber as it expands during the firing sequence. As the pressure subsides, the case will shrink slightly, allowing it to be extracted easier. Hope this clears up the question.
@@derekturner3272 It amazes me ignorant teenage UA-cam groupie parrot mouth talking like you repeat the same false garbage over and over.
Chrome lined barrels have only one reason is to prevent corrosion from corrosive primers and used in tropical climates not anything to do with copper fouling.
@@Lure-Benson Yes, that was the original reason in the 20's and 30's. You are half correct. But you are a full and complete asshole. Now that we have non-corrosive primers and barrel manufacturers still offering it as an option, even in competition barrels. Hum... I guess they must assume the competitions will be in tropical climates using some old Russian idiots ammo from when grandpa was shot by his own side for trying to surrender or run away.
Bisakah pesan laras dengan cal 4,5/177
the run out on that barrel is atrocious, it'lll be luck to shoot a 2"group
Pano Po ako Maka order Ng mga ganiyan parts pwd mo ba ako toroan para Maka kuha ako
you need much shorter drills those arent nearly as ridged as they are supposed to be you can see it walking in the video
Watching your drill flex like that make me cringe lol.
That,s alright he is still learning...
That's pretty normal. The drill will basically just centering itself, and unless you chuck it up in a collet, the drill bit will probably have some run out
Could you send the link where I buy the tool to make the cartridge camera?
Ebay
@@alanguimaraes930 link ?
Can you please measure the radial thickness of the barrel in the circle ... both in and out ... Thanks I don't belive that is uniform...
I agree. As I said in the video, I didn't center the barrel up using the gage pin when I turned the profile. However, I doubt that will make any difference. On the next barrel I make, I will definitely do that.
@@jayphilipwilliams Waiting to see your next barrel, I'm not a builder ... But I would like to build a new 223 Wylde barrel too ... And no video shows all the steps correct ... thanks for your video and effort ...Phil
@@jayphilipwilliams One thing I saw is that first you need to center the barrel between two counter points ... And then turn the barrel to equalize the thickness between the inlet and outlet hole ... After that all the other processes ... But the videos I'm not very clear ... I work as a 3D CAD mechanical designer ...
@@fabiomigliorini2004 I will definitely do another barrel and will record how it goes. I hope I'll do better at a few of the steps. Thanks for watching.
@@jayphilipwilliams Super... Can you send me please the you tube upload??
What is the name of the third tools brother?
Can you give me a time stamp where the tool appears?
@@jayphilipwilliams 4:49
Ummm , let me show you how to do something I’ve never done before? Do you have an outboard spider. Did you check the inner bore concentricity and alignment with a ground bar? (Test indicate) I don’t think you should be doing this type of work or showing others this approach. Trial and error gun smithing is dangerous in my opinion. It’s why I don’t do it.
I see your reamer moving up and down as you ream. Do that tell you something? That tells me something.
How did it shoot.
Check the latest video on this channel. More to come.
Next is bolt remover please
Di mana kah sya bisa mendapatkan mata reamer seperti itu
This chamber ain't gonna be concentric, that's for sure.
Well, I'm really happy with how it shoots.
That is all what matters, congrats!
Allign ur tail stock
Me gusta lo que hase porq soy conocedor de arma pero habla mucho
But, I give it to you, you diy-d your barrel.
Bagus bang👍
its never a good idea to use a ordinary drill for existed holes..
Fact: The most inaccurate way to drill a hole, is with a twist drill. Center both ends of your machine. Use a boring bar to enlarge the holes. Is that a live round your using? You chucked up your barrel without using brass or copper. Watch some YT video’s and get knowledge from real Machinists and Gunsmiths. With your set-up you can get good results. Go slow and take measurement a lot.
Can you send me a YT video link please?
1He's using a reamer so a twist drill does fine
2 you would need a quarter inch carbide boring bar to bore that hole. How much does that run, about 300$ I would guess. And it will still probably break when hitting those grooves/lands
3 the outside finish of the barrel is not critical for accuracy
4 this is a dude in a garage not a machine shop or a gunsmith
Yes. Get the chamber as close to the dimensions of the reamer and finishing it off with the reamer. More precised. I think a reamer is not a drilling toll. Its more of boring.
Came on a little strong there man, what you meant to say was if it was a finished hole to use a boring bar. There is nothing wrong with use a twist drill here with the existing through hole folles by a reamer. I do agree with using some copper pads.
Thats like my grandfather work, old school way.
Normally, for made that operation, need a complete measurement equipment and procedure.
Enjoy but be carefull.
Dont stop!
This isn’t the best way to machine something as critical as a gun barrel. I wouldn’t shoot it
Trying to machine those features with no alignment and checks will ruin your work. This is a bad video.
Unless you are doing a LOT of chambers, you can get away with using a finish reamer the whole way
Not cooling liquid ?
Good thing you aren't a gunsmith.
That chamber you can see is going to be out of round and that isn't the way a reamed is properly held in the lathe and you didn't even use a diel indicator to check for center of bore to the reamer center to the bore .
Sounds like your lathe need a heavier gear oil.