Pimpin' the Amiga 600 in 2021 | MVG
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- A viewer sent me an old Amiga 600 computer that has sat in storage for over 20 years. Lets get it cleaned, pimped out with some updated hardware and play some games!
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Music Featured in this Episode:
► EveryWay - H0ffman
► EON - H0ffman
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#Amiga #A600
That was my first computer. How sweet
AlexiBexi, du hier? :D
Hallöle AlexiBexi! Hätte dich nicht hier erwartet... XD
it was my 5th computer. It was awesome!
Also dich habe ich hier am wenigsten erwartet!!!
It was my first bought with my own money at the age of 15! Cost me $350+ in 1993
wait this isn’t the 8-bit guy
Yeah, there is no retrobriting nor paperclips in power supplies.
or RMC who recently did a wonderful series about Amiga 600.
Adrian's Digital Basement is better than 8bit guy
@@mikeuk666 True. Adrian is also not working together with Clippy on some very rare old computers. ;-)
@@Okurka. or a 32 bit machine
btw @MVG you missed the prefect opportunity to put only the M V G keys on first ;-)
*music starts playing*
Awwww yes!!!!
While you had everything apart I still would have taken the time to recap the board anyway. Old caps always make me nervous.
Yup totally, you will get issue after issue otherwise, my original A1200 really needs doing, I will have to get it apart and do it at some point soon.
I would have tested it first before putting it all together and before installing the accelerator. If you make sure it works before any modifications then if it doesn't work after you know what caused the problem. I don't mind old caps on motherboards because as long as they don't leak electrolyte they won't cause any damage. IMO it's not worth the hassle (and risk, especially if you're inexperienced) of recapping if it works reliably as is. It's not too much work to take the board back out later if/when the need arises.
Ahh my absolute favourite childhood computer, I have been desperately searching for one for years.
Mine was the A500+, awesome machine.
Amen to both of those; I had an A1200 with a 40MB HDD (swanky for the time) and my friend had an A600. He was always envious of that speedier processor and extra meg of RAM, but they were both great machines...
Never heard of Ebay I guess
@@godslayer1415 might not be available in his region, or not have AMiGAs on there barely ever?
@@godslayer1415 oh I try on there all the time, but I'd love to find a bargain and maybe one I can fix up, so I would prefer if I could see it in person.
The natural grime protected the exterior from uv damage haha
If it wasn't in direct sunlight, it wouldn't really get very yellow
MVG adding restoration videos to his repertoire is what the world needed
Restoration? More like a good clean...
You took it apart, cleaned it thoroughly, and upgraded the hardware all without any hardware testing? I call shenanigans on your statement about not knowing if it worked.
You must not have ever done this before. Garage finds often work fine
That grime just added some character to it.
What's up MrMario
& DNA
That's gunk erasure.
The nice 80's music is a good touch
Just curious, why is the metal shielding useless today? Because we use less over-the-air TV and radio stations?
Someone? I need to know!
I would also like to know
I’ll third that, why ?
This was bugging me too... so I did a bit of research... Turns out the rf shielding is primarily to prevent the device from sending interference to other devices that use radio waves, although it does also protect the device from incoming signals as well as a secondary function... As we don't use any devices that utilize radio frequencies to send pictures or whatever, it's not an issue today... Your unshielded Amiga isn't going to wreck the picture of your neighbors NES that is attached to the tv via the antenna in todays world lol. Most seemingly smart people recommend replacing it however, just to prevent any possible incoming interference, however unlikely... and also because hardcore collectors and such want the shielding to make the unit original and complete.
The shielding is just as important as it ever was. It prevents the computer from interfering with other items and other items from interfering with the Amiga. People remove the shielding and then wonder why they has audio interference issues, etc.
Modern equipment will most often have the plastic case metalized on the inside or thanks to modern simulation tools and multilayer PCBs has been designed to limit RF interference.
At the university where I work we have an entire research unit that works with major international companies on RF interference problems. It is as big an issue today as ever, in fact it is a larger issue as we have 20x the electronic devices in our homes now.
I dont need sleep I need mvg content.
NICE.
Top tip as mentioned here, BE CAREFUL when removing key caps. The caps can require some force to overcome the key retention and it’s important to go slowly and not let the cap fly off. Flying caps don’t go very far and are easy to find but trust me those springs can fly much further and will bounce off in random directions. I lost one last year which turned up six months later in a completely different part of the man cave. If this happens the space bar has two springs and will work okay with just one until you find a replacement for the one you lost.
I wish I read this comment before it happened to me
I remember having one of these ten years ago. I found one in an old house from my family who I assumed was owned by one of my family member's back in the day when Amiga was popular. It somehow still worked after so much time of it sitting there in an old box.
Its fine to remove keys with a screwdrivers IF you are aware of what keyswitch is under it, it can break some key switch types ( its a very bad idea on ALPS for example)
Can I suggest a recap? Last month I recapped an A1200 which had caps that looked okay. But C236 and C239 looked fine and leaked anyway, causing corroded pads which are a pain to clean.
The worst I ever had was a mainboard of a Yamaha electronic piano. This was made in the same era and had brown gunk all over the caps. It took me a while to recap (all 45 of them), but the damage was done. Traces were gone and the green protection layer was eaten away by electrolyte. So, anyway, recap the bastard 🙂
I recommend spraying any cleaning solution to a towel rather directly to a machine itself. Especially with regards to the keyboard were liquid can sip onto the membrane.
There wasn't a membrane on this mechanical keyboard, as you can see on the vid, he removed almost all keys and then sprayed some more windex on there
@@kikujade notice at the start of the video he pulled a green ribbon while opening for the first time the machine. That is a keyboard membrane that goes under the base that holds the key plungers, springs etc. Through the holes of the base liquid can easily enter and contaminate the membrane.
@@32KOFDATA you are right, I missed that part of the video
A600 had the cheap capacitors during the capacitor plague so this is a time bomb. These surface mount capacitors may look ok from the top but may be leaking underneath. These capacitor issues and price are reason I stick with MISTer FPGA for Amiga gaming.
A detailed cleaning of an old computer that mentions Retr0bright? MVG has turned into The 8-Bit Guy. This is not a problem for me, by the way... both great channels for computing.
Love the 8bit guy
One of my biggest regrets ever (no joke!) is getting rid of A600 when our family got a new PC. Not that I had much to say in this regard, seeing that we weren't wealthy and my dad has found an enthusiast who paid a good amount of money for it back then - this was circa 1998 I think. We even had an OG Commodore colour monitor for it !
But I have just shrugged off this, because I already got better machine with flashier games... Years later I've understood that it was a great system and went back to many games running on emulators, of course. Then it hit me - many of those are still amazing fun years later, but they were much better on real hardware and that sweet CRT screen.
These days, working A600 are not that common and their prices are relatively high. Would love to get an original some day, though, let alone pimped out one like one shown! Thanks for bringing back memories!
3:00 his hand
Glitches in real life
Don't worry. It's just a bug in the Matrix.
your kiroshi cybereyes are acting up.
Oh man, 2 The 8 Bit Guy episodes in one week, 2021 is starting to look good!
Has he not destroyed any more systems yet? that 8bit idiot came off my watch list when I realised how much of a hack he is.
@@retrobossmonster5509 what
@@retrobossmonster5509 but like, who asked?
The 8 bit guy had retro brigned the plastics
Weird. I thought it was him too. Thought it was strange that he would use the word "Pimpin"
MVG: "You will notice the warranty sticker has been broken in the middle, which means-"
*Dankpods crashes through the window*
"SOMEONE'S BEEN IN HERE!"
In an Aussie accent. G'day
Why is the shielding pointless in 2021?
3:03 MVG going through parallel universes.
8 bit guy looks different today
The 8-bit guy let his beard grow. He also looks weird without his glasses and speaking with an Aussie accent.
The A600 was my first Amiga as a teenager. Oh I miss those days! Looks great!!
It is also possible for lazy people to the pieces in the Dishwasher without any cleaners. this worked really well and dont damage the pcb´s
As long as you give it a week or so to dry
The cleaners contain anti corrosion (stops your knifes and forks from rusting) so you probably want to use them if your putting a PCB in the dish washer. The drying cycle you probably want to avoid due to the heat and just air dry it. Not that I'd ever had the balls to put a PCB in a dish washer
@@tanuki2k I have done it with an A500+. Removed the old battery, put the case and PCB into the dishwasher on a quick cycle, wash, avoid the drying cycle, rinse manually with isopropyl and dry for a week in the airing cupboard. Put back together and hey presto - a working A500+ clean and sparkly..
1) The capacitors are leaking, I have a lot of experience with this and I can tell (the pads are dull and not shiny, cap leakage can often be hard to detect). They must be replaced ASAP, and board cleaned.
2) You do NOT want to just pull out the keyboard ribbon cable. This will damage the contacts on the ribbon over time, this is a very common fault. Always lift up the white latch on the motherboard first.
100% agreed on the caps. Last year I caught my brother's A600 just in time. Lost a bunch of silk screen markings and had to tin up a few traces where the solder mask had already been slightly compromised. No broken traces or lost pads fortunately. I did my A1200 at the same time, and that one only showed a few dull capacitor legs, however once I introduced the soldering iron the tell tale fish smell told me the recap+thorough cleanup was absolutely needed.
Even if the caps were not leaking, it's still a good idea to replace them. They're almost 30 years old.
@@AmartharDrakestone Sure, the SMD caps of that era (around '89..'94) are known to not last as long as they should. They should have a high replacing priority.
Agreed, it is really hard to see visually if SMD caps are bad or not. But at timestamp 6:28 C409 C459 are visibly dull and even bulging, and at 5:13 C304 is also visibly dull and leaking.
No offence, but what a lazy cleaning job and not doing a re-cap is just inexcusable. The caps in every A600, A1200, and CD32 must be changed, no matter how good they may still look. They leaked - always.
MVG: Now, before we put the Amiga 600 back in it's case...
A600 in the background fully assembled: Am I a joke to you?
That Amiga Badge is begging to have its yellowed cellophane removed ;)
You should point out that capacitors on A600 and A1200 as A4000 NEEDS to be replaced no matter how nice they look. It is well known that caps made in those years have low quakity, and they leak. For example board of A600 that I have looked great, but I decided to replace caos anyway. I gave it to my friend to do it (he is professional) and proces ended up fixing traces that SMD caps ate beneath that black plastic bottom which hides the damage they do.
That is simething every newer model of Amiga owner should do first in 2021.
Thumbs up for using a screwdriver to pull the keys. I'm doing it in the same way and I've never damaged a single key, because you can apply the force needed to lift the key much more controlled this way than with one of these overrated cap pullers.
What is a good Amiga emulator to run on Windows? Never used one and the games look fantastic.
aah my very first comp I was 3 years old and learned programing before I learned the language the country I was born in.. Also became a very good gamer at early age thanks to that machine ^,^ also I find it strange mine has 4 mb's of Ram =o
Your floppy drive needs a new rubber band and some new lube, do NOT use V56 to clean as it's not meant to be for mechanical usage like that but it's better to get sewing machine oil. or as I choose, oil for my long board ball bearings.
I still have mine in storage, Sadly the power supply died but I could very easy soldier on the old cables to a modern PSU Also.. do not EVER open a Amiga PSU even after 10 years of storage, the high AMP that the capacitors have stored gave a typical electrical shock where your mussels clench up, no Alternating current like twice but just straight up mussel clench, my heart hurt and my arm was shaking for 5 minutes.. and I seriously sure that I grounded and shorted it all before even touching the cables. it was easier to cut the cod, and cut the main cord on the new PSU look up which Voltage for which color for the Amiga cable and presto =3 another 25 years it shall last.
Lotus 3 is a must to be played on it, the music on the real Amiga chipset is best ever.
Really a very nice outcome! And really a LOT of surprise from the capacitors just below the floppy drive area, audio area (left one), power / video area (left and near the chip in the middle), OMG!! Check it out really fast, it deserve that care! Cheers, M
Great video, this and RMC's have got me thinking I should dig out my old A600 and give it a new lease of life. Does anyone have any suggestions for tutorials on how to setup the CF card, and reccomendations on alternatives to the ACA620 now it seems difficult to source? Would be great to get the old machine running some of my old games again!
Have you considered running all of the plastic pieces through a dishwasher cycle?
Desperate to clean my manky old logitech g15 keyboard up I removed all of the keys and put them in an mesh washing bag (my wife uses them for washing bras I think)
I couldnt believe it, they came up like new and I didnt have to scrub them!
Dude that melody in the intro is so epic
4Gb ? I spy a 32Gb card...🤔
Also, you didn't clean inside the fold of the floppy ribbon cable 😜
Might have to cap the capacity, for detection issues, i've seen it happen with other computers, possibly the same thing here.
32gb card but max usage 4gb to be simple
SD cards are my preferred hard drive replacement for old systems, they're a lot faster and most of the time you get bundles with a USB adapter. CF cards are usually around double the price for less capacity and speed, not worth it unless you already have them lying around.
@@amirpourghoureiyan1637 CF cards are native IDE, only the pins need to be adapted. And the speed is not really a factor, since even the fastest SD card will be limited by the IDE interface and the SD to IDE converter.
Windex is not recommended for plastics. You should get this German plastic cleaning product called 'Kunst-Stoff'. It has the added bonus of anti static.
Be carefull with the PSU, Commodore PSU's are notorious for failing and sending more voltage trough the system then needed. Better to replace it with a modern aftermarket PSU.
Great video :)
I know the 128 ones are better, so I would assume the amiga ones are too? i know the 64 van vic 20 ones are really bad.
@@Okurka. @Douglas Rogers Thank you both for pointing this out to me.
So my excuse for the wrong info.
you cleaned it but its still full of crap. you didn't touch the mobo and the keyboard is still gunked up........
You're not pressing the keyboard but gameplay is happening wtf
Am I watching an 8 bit guy video or something?
Why is the metal shielding no longer needed? Curious
If i heard correctly it is metal RF-shielding and maybe those frequencies are not used anymore.
I think American law at the time meant commodore couldn’t sell their machines without rf shielding. I don’t know why you would remove it completely though, perhaps not needed when connecting to a modern tv?
Ah the good old days turican and cannon fodder for me miss them games so bad
Amiga Rules.
PC Engine Rules.
The rest is meaningless.
I really need an Amiga A600 back in my life.
How much should Iexpect to pay pay for a unrefurbished a600hd?
Big PIMP'IN MVG Amiga style! Love it my man! Showing that Amiga 600 some AmiggaaaaLuuuvvveeeee.com
The 8 Bit Modern Vintage Gamer Guy
You should do this with all your stuff, especially before you zoom the camera in on something, hah.
Easily my favorite computer washing video on youtube!
I've heard that some sunlight can help to bring the original colouring back to plastics
My A500 which I bought back in 1988 has never developed a fault and not yellowed at all in 32yrs, always treat a magical machine with respect!
Would you recommend A600 or A1200?
Please help, i need the name of the 1st song! 0:00
The Modern-Bit Guy
Modern Vintage Guy?
I wasn’t expecting an Amiga video so soon in the new year. Never lose your (and my) roots my man.
Thought I was watching 8 bit guy for a second.
8 bit guy would have destroyed the computer probably lmao
Why is the shielding pointless in 2021?
Because you're not using the RF-out in 2021.
Aᴍᴀʀᴛʜᴀʀ Dʀᴀᴋᴇsᴛᴏɴᴇ but there is shielding all over it internally
@@tehsimo Because of FCC regulations. Here's a more detailed explanation: retrocomputing.stackexchange.com/questions/1479/is-the-metal-shielding-required-in-all-in-one-amiga-models
what is the model of Dell monitor?
Youve done a tidy job there well done, so many people rave about retrobrighting (using peroxide and sunshine) to fix the effects of bromine retardation in the plastic, its messy, smelly doesnt last either, soap and water as you have shown is often all that is required and then letting them dry out in hot sunshine will brighten them up, attacking the plastic with peroxide is a temporary fix, unless they are really bad its better to just clean them as you have shown here, great work.
The fan who sent this is a great dude, helping preserve history
I wish you were my dad
'Gunk' is a fantastic word.
"And make sure you didn't lose any of the springs..." LMAO I've done that before. Great video brotha!
Hoffman tracks playing in the background, absolute choons!
Ian's Cave Sessions album is also visible in the background 👍
Why is the RF shielding pointless today? What has changed since then?
People don't use RF modulators anymore. There's always the option to use an external one if the shielding has been removed.
I've never owned this one but I've seen a lot of videos on it.. read about it.. etc
imho, it is by far the WORST Amiga of all time.... at least to upgrade.
I've day dreamed about redoing older Amiga mobo's... even thought about what I'd put on which "drop in replacement mobo" for different ones...
but THIS ONE would be a massive pain in the ass.
Mainly because of its small size.
You can't put anything over powering because of heat issues (wouldn't be a good idea to remake the mobo with an '040 on it... I'd even worry about an '060 cooling itself!
I did come up with some ideas for a new mobo "redux".... one of which, wouldn't be very enticing for someone who still has an urge to "upgrade" to an even faster CPU or RAM....
All possible redux's of any mobo (and let's face it, a mobo redux would be necessary)....
but.. all of them would require putting the full 2mb CHIP RAM somewhere on the mobo.
You'd also want some "Shadow RAM" for two different things....
One is you'd want some of this "hidden" RAM for that bus to use silently without invading any CHIP or FAST RAM that you do add to the system.
Even though there would really be only room for a 512k single ROM chip...
Some people would still want to load an older OS (or maybe their newer one?) into MapROM.
That too could take up memory...
So some shadow RAM near that bus to handle both, that doesn't get registered as "normal use" RAM would be important.
1mb for MapROM so someone could, for example, load a kickstart ROM (via disk) into that without having to open the machine to swap out or install a ROM switcher :D
That would make things useful
Also, the actual slot, I learned used or reserved RAM if it was in fact used. I don't recall how much it reserved but it took a chunk out for some reason.
Can you confirm that the PCMCIA slot uses RAM when it is "on" ?
But all that aside...
CPU would have to be upgraded... but if you are doing a mobo redux... and realize the extra 1mb of CHIP RAM should be on the mobo instead of in the card slot...
Then that possibly frees up that slot to be a new CPU upgrade slot (like the 1200 maybe?)
With all the accelerators already made (and I think there's like 6 different ones now)... it wouldn't be a good idea to say, swap CPU's to something incompatible.
So no EC020's (on the mobo)... or even a strange 68012 (only ones Ive seen are 53 pin PGA sockets).
But... a 16mhz 68010 in 16mhz form DOES exist as a PLCC and would replace the 68000 CPU just fine.
Only problem would be whether or not those other accelerator boards use the clock pin (when they piggyback).. or do they create their own clock signal.
Otherwise a 7.1 mhz or even 8.0 mhz jumper should be on the mobo to prevent an accelerator from actually going too fast ;)
(i.e if its dependent on the 68000 type's clock pin and doubles that signal, then if it doubles a 16mhz signal it will be going 32mhz and that could fry some of the support chips on such an expansion board)
But a 16mhz (and I mean exactly 16... not a14mhz) 68010 would be an interesting little upgrade in itself.
I had an old ICD AdSpeed once (a legit 16mhz rated 68000) and I put in a 16mhz 68010... fun times on an A500 !
Of course no Amiga has a fun time if the thing doesn't have some Fast RAM to play with......
8mb of Fast RAM right on the motherboard for a 68010 would be glorious.
Only issue after that is making sure that any PCMCIA RAM expansion of 8mb) is mapped higher and not the same address.
There is room (16mb max) for the CPU and system to use it... it just has to be assigned correctly.
So as long as the system addresses it right a standard 68010 could run 16mb of Fast (8mb on board, 8mb on PCMCIA) and 2mb of Chip RAM (which is controlled by Agnus)
That would be a powerful A600.
If that were a mobo redux... then the trap door slot would or could become the new CPU slot.
In that odd situation, this "Redone A600 would then have two options for CPU board upgrades. One from the 68010 PLCC (Piggyback) or the trap door slot.
But then if the intention is to make that trap door slot the new CPU expansion.. experimenting around with a 68012 @16mhz (max speed) would be something fun to try.
No Amiga was ever released with either a 68010 or 68012... Although it was directly possible to at least release one (A1000, A500, A2000, A600) with a 68010 since it was pin for pin compatible with the DIP 68000, or in the 600's case, a PLCC 68010.
Guess that '012 stayed the "oddball" of the 68k line.... ;)
Thanks for the tip on looking for an A600. It's the form factor I really like -- I'm a QL'er so I like the compact design. You are right, eBay has been a difficult place to find one (US) and when they are up it's expensive. I did check craigslist but will look at Facebook groups as well.
Cries in A500. I'm still jelly that my friends had A600. 25 years on and I'm still salty LUL
You get the last laugh though... whack a TF536 in your A500 and it'll blow the doors off a 600 while having a real numeric pad ;)
Skip both and get an A1200, I had the original A600 when it launched and sold it immediately after the A1200 came out, the A600 is pathetic in comparison to the A1200, I fitted a Blizzard board in my A1200, I had the Vidi Amiga and was grabbing clips and screen grabs off the TV and messing about with them in the early 90s, I have still got the A1200 sat on the shelf, I sold the blizzard board and upgraded to a more modern accelerator a while ago and of course the original hard drive has been replaced for a compact flash drive, its a cracking piece of retro fun and even though I have had many many computers since I wont ever get rid of the Amiga, there is a reason they are expensive to get second hand and thats because people want to keep them.
@@knoxieman that's usually solid advice but when you already own a 500 unless you really, REALLY want AGA there's not massive gains other than price going 1200 and accelerator over 500 and accelerator.
Meanwhile: "Can I get my Amiga now, please?"
❤Love your channel, mate! Man I love the Amiga 600! so many good memories! I still have it back in my loft in England! I so wanna get back and check it out again! 🅰6⃣0⃣0⃣ ❤
Or... Emulate.
At the beginning of this video there is a song, does anyone know the name of it?
Enjoy your channel but I was wondering if you own any 15Khz RGB monitors. I know they don't capture well for UA-cam because of the different scan rates than your camera but I was just curious if you enjoy using Amiga's on 15Khz monitors. Personally I would never use one any other way, scan lines are very nostalgic for me as I grew up in thr 70s and 80s. Seeing older computers and consoles and arcade games on modern LCD or HDMI screens just isn't very satisfying. What are your thoughts? Personally I own a Commodore 1984S and a Sony 19" PVM. They are truly glorious. The 1084 is only 12" I think but it serves the lower resolutions excellent. For example playing Super Nintendo (modded for RGB of course) on one of these 15Khz monitors is like playing video games in the clouds.
2MB - awesome, unique, complete games. 2Tflops - boring, identical, lacking soul games
TBH when it comes to upgrading A600, I think Furia is still the best way to go. Even with its basic 33/40 config it gives a solid kick to it, making playing games like Citadel or A-Train comfortable. Even Civilization world generation is bearable.
5:18 - Several of the electrolytic caps in the top left of the screen definitely seem to be bulging. I'd definitely replace those if I were you.
Sorry for being that guy, but you really shouldn't pull out the keyboard ribbon cable from its connector on the motherboard without first opening the connector's locking mechanism. Using force to pull it out damages the old and fragile carbon leads on the membrane and is a common cause for partially non-working keyboards in A600 and A1200.
Besides that, excellent video, a nice cleanup which any venerable Amiga needs.
Recap asap
I'd remove the membrane from the underside of keyboard - You don't want any moisture working into it. Trust me it happens, it happened to me restoring an a1200! I had to mess around fixing the conductive traces. Good job! Its great fun saving old machines.
I have 2 Amigas An A500 and an A1200. haven't used them in 25 odd years I would love to get them set up with expansions and mods. Great video I really enjoyed watching this, thank you.
Super Skidmarks! Alien Breed! Cannon Fodder! Stardust! It Came From the Desert! Growing up with an Amiga was the best.
The Amiga 600 before it was cleaned looks like my keyboard right now.
Me whatching MVG disassemble a computer that's 10 years older than me.
Mmm...........interesting.
Here are some useful UA-cam channels for CBM (Commodore Business Machines) related content:
* GadgetUK164 (Amiga repairs/restoration - everything from the A500 to the A4000, plus some other electronics repair)
* Adrian’s Digital Basement (Vic 20/C64 repair, plus older Macs and IBM clones)
* 8-bit Guy (history of early CBM machines, from the Pet to the C64, plus oddball viewer mail)
* 8-bit show and tell (Vic 20/C64 programming, especially assembler)
* Jan Beta (also Vic 20/C64 repair, plus other electronic repair)
* Noel’s Retro Lab (some Vic 20/C64 repair, plus lots of Amstrad computer stuff)
This isn’t by any means exhaustive; there are probably loads more UA-cam channels that I have yet to find! 😊
Here's a little something I wrote to pimp the WHDLoad experience a bit further: ua-cam.com/video/D2nqHm3WQCU/v-deo.html
>cleans everything
>reinstalls nasty ribbon cable
ლ(ಠ益ಠ)ლ
That aca620 is pretty crappy. You can try with FuriaEC020r2 40Mhz for like 150$. I think thats a reason that aca620 was discontinued, as icomp is doing nice job for other amigas. Furia was just 3 times faster and accelerated even IDE port. Additional cheap pimpin' - PCMCIA CF card reader and maybe GOTEK if you don't care about real FDD (i personally do - i love this feeling of loading games with this sound of working floppy).
I used an A600 live on stage for a few years before I got an A1200. A great little workhorse. Great crunchy 8 bit sampling which is a bit of a retro obsession these days.
I made my first renders on unexpanded A600 with 2MB of RAM with Real 3D 1.4. I Remember rendering a scene for 6 hours...
This influenced me to work nowadays as 3D artist on HP Z800 workstation with 48 GB of RAM rendering some scenes for 4 hours in Vray ;)
I still have those renders from Amiga in the cloud to don't loose them :) and I feel so much nostalgia every time I see A600 :)
MVG, please make more videos about Amiga!
I myself would have changed the caps on the MB and the CMOS battery on the expansion card, just to be on the safe side.
Loved the video MVG! Always Like/Thumbs Up Amiga content.
I'm 50 now and I've been gaming since I was 14 on my Atari 2600 (I still have it and it still works) but the best experiences came from an Atari 1040STE, there were some really good games back then. I recently found one game I used to play on it was just remade, The Bluecoats: North vs South. Makes me feel young again.