The m is for monoblock since it's a single channel amp class a/d or class d the m is always for monoblock cuz it won't run ful range
Just video conversation and getting people commenting. Thanks for your information and thank you for your comment 😊
Keep them coming, I love live power dyno videos, thanks for sharing.
Also, just and FYI, the weight of the amp is due to a steel plate mounted to the heatsink under the circuitboard. Cheap amplifier makers do this to make the amp feel more substantial.
It's just an amp demo and an older one of mine at that. I just was moving thing's around and grabbed this and maybe do a new more updated test with my new way of testing is much more efficient and accurate
@@SubzPawz Totally understand. I am an amplifier repair technition and I am only bringing to light the 'why' things seem as they are, and what to be aware of. I just had one of these come across my repair bench and upon disassembly came across the steel plate and just had to laugh, but at the same time was a little grateful because I needed some steel to make some gussets to weld into a gokart frame, thank you Planet Audio! I also used your video to show the owner of the amplifier that it does not and will not produce 2500 watts as he does not understand basic math (60A of fuse x 13.4V = 804 watts at 100% efficiency, but class A/B amplifiers are only 60% efficient at best). So, thank you and keep them videos coming!
@@drewideth thank you. That's awesome. I very much appreciate it. That's why I started making these videos honestly. Too many people see something on a box or even on the amp and that's what they're expecting to get or honestly think they're getting for power. I have a few amps I was curious about getting repaired. What's the average cost or is it really worth it?
Very surprised 😮
How did you think it did? Was the surprised a good surprise or a bad surprise? Thanks for the comment.
@@SubzPawz 400 is great for the price of the amp. On a budget build this would work for many people.
@@kennymack8056 I agree 100%. This amp would be great for someone on a budget. This had my two 12's slamming, my wife yelled at me in the video if your paying attention. When I first did the 2 ohm test you hear me yell something, things were falling off shelves and vibrating the whole house, and the amp did not clip the subs. The amp was only a little warm after these tests. Thanks again.
Class A/B, Monoblock, MOSFET power supply
2500 watts @2-ohms x 1 max, 1250 watts @4-ohms x 1 max, High & low level inputs
Soft turn on circuit, thermal overload speaker and short protection
Power & protect LEDs, variable low pass crossover 45-90 Hz
Variable bass boost 0-18 dB, variable gain control, input sensitivity selector
Speaker impedance 2-8 ohms, THD @ RMS output: ˂0.01%, S/N Ratio 102 dB
Frequency response 20 Hz-200 kHz, Fuse quantity (2) 30 amp ATO blade
Dimensions 14” x 10” x 2.4”, weight 10.9 lbs., Remote subwoofer control
Did you copy and paste that? Those are dreaming numbers. I actually still have this amp, I'm going to redo some of my older dyno tests, I have new tricks and methods to attempt to pull more power. Although I did this with the same amp but Boss Audio 2500.1 and the next time I powered it on it was in protect. I think the low load burnt something inside.
Why is audio repeating? SMH.
may be I did not remove the second camera audio. This is an older video. I just came across the amp I'll have to redo this tests and do another video and this one with go in my archives. LOL
what did it actually Dyno at 4ohms?
I'm going to redo this test again. There's a few I have done I think I can do better now with the new tests I do and better understanding of them. About 3-500 watt's on a clean load. I'll do it today so watch for it. Thank you 👍
So Did this do over 400 @ 2 ohms? Or was that If it was wired to 1ohm
I'm going to see if I have this amp still, this is when I first started doing the dyno videos. I've learned so much since then. At 2 ohm's at least that. Thanks for the comment.
Hey! give advice. I have a Rockford t1 10 inches. if i replace it with jl 12w6 which one is better? I have a system for sound quality. never listened to jl. you probably have more experience)
I love both companies myself, I have demo's of both subs you've mentioned. The W6 is going to be the sound quality, not hit as hard as the T1, but get the notes a tad bit better. Thanks for the comment, I might try something along those lines.
The M at the end of the model number is for "mono"...yes the same as the .1, I know, its redundant. Also, it would not say D if it is a class A/B amplifier, the D would be for class D circuitry.
Makes sense. Nice.