I have been with you for a 1/2 a year and now have left alec steele due to lack of edged weapons, and wanted to say thank you for your channel and hard work.
@@FireCreekForge I saw another fella use copper, cables and a core of 80 crv2, or 15n20 in a cu mai blade that turned out pretty nice, using the same setup you did for forging the cuts together, is what reminded me. Be looking for the finished product.
Love to see the finished knife. Also ball bearings giving little dots along with the big dots. And turning it to make it an x pattern so it doesn’t look off center
I have seen a video where they use Tipp-ex paint on the inside of the can and the shell comes right off when forging. I 100% belive this would work coz I use tipp-ex myself on my Goldsmith work when I don't want solder to flow every where
You should have added small ball bearings to those voids, that would have been a crazy looking pattern but you have some cool ideas with those patterns
So I go around recommending all kinds of crazy ideas. One has been involving nuts and bolts. Shurap, one of the guys I watch, did a pattern of nuts and bolts but his orientation was short bolts in nuts side by side horizontally. My thinking was longer bolts, say six inches, all thread with nuts of different grades thread onto the bolt. I'm thinking a large bolt, at least one inch, but also a canister job with smaller bolts, but many of them. The question is, will it weld fast enough to avoid a void between the nut and blot as it is flattened? Or twisting. Wish I had found this stuff earlier in life as it isn't too late and actually have a couple knives I had been working on, one inherited project my dad was working on, but not welded Damascus, but I'm running out of runway, so to speak, but with a million ideas on how to create patterns.. Latest, canister with different sizes and grades of cable, mixed with nuts and bolts and round and square rod, all mixed in a canister with some powder. Also, after watching how Shurap arranged them, what about a nut with a ball bearing in the center, flat and horizontal, powder and then another level/row.? This one, this pattern you just did makes me wonder if you could create letters and then mix and match to spell things? Who wouldn't want a knife with their name forged into it?
I’ve seen other videos on canister Damascus and a few that used powdered steel drilled a small hole in the end of the canister. They said that it was there to allow any gasses and other impurities that may form in the can an escape so they don’t end up in the final pattern. I’m not a blacksmith so I’m not sure if that’s needed but it may account for the water that was definitely visible when you were cutting the billet on the chop-saw. Also try drawing out the billet (after removing the can) to 1/2 size the pattern may be smaller but you could try a number of different techniques with the same amount of material.
Hey man! I just read your message on your channel and I am so happy to hear that you are a Christian!! Watching your videos I wondered...you can tell a Christian. 👍👍
That 10-95 eating up those blades huh....enjoy watching the work. Wish I had more than propane, angle grinder a hammer and anvil at this point... lol BTW nice lines you laid down with that arc welder!
Stupid question. But wouldn't a metal zip tie be a better idea due to the heat generated from the welding? Sry, just getting into BSing at 40 yrs old and trying to make sure I'm doing it correctly, tnx!
With these metal 3D printers I've wondered if you could make a repeatable patern with the powered steel. It would ki d of be like damasteel I guess but with carbon steel instead. You have awesome ideas thanks for sharing 👍.
“Scraping the earth in search of the essence Metallic rock ore where iron is present Extraction smelters burn hot with phosphorescence Altered shape, affected matter Giving form, an ominous factor Never break it, it will never bend The Anvil was Forged In Fire” - Anvil, “Forged in Fire”, 1983
Try this pattern again and use ball bearings as well. I believe the ball bearings will complete the look as well as turning the original pattern to the corners so the lines won’t be as noticeable off center.
Use plain Milk of Magnesium to keep the metal from sticking to the sides. What jet aircraft engines hot sections & afterburner sections used on the bolt to keep the nuts from forging together.
I like your videos, just finished watching how to soften tang to drill video. I just finished a nice small integral guard but tang is hard. Will heeping blade portion in water help keep it from heating while i soften the tang?
Yep, that should be fine. I recommend getting the tang up to your target heat as quickly as possible; the heat has less time to travel up to the blade that way.
You should really stop touching the etching acid with your bare hands. Aside from the obvious danger of chemical burns, that stuff can be absorbed into the body and cause untold problems down the line.
Good content. Thanks for sharing. Will you be uploading a follow-up video? I'm sure I speak for a lot of folks who are interested to see how it turned out.
anyone ever suggested making damascus steel 'something' from all of the used canister parts? :D you could forge weld some thin pieces together back to back, then it will be thick enough to cut into cubes, have a cube based damascus steel knife
@5:38 have you ever tired using all the steel shavings from all the grinding instead of powdered steel? I mean it goes into a bucket most places ive seen, why not try that?
When casting bullets It is recommended to cover the inside of the mold with soot from a flame to prevent the lead from sticking to it. Would this work for this process. * disclaimer: I know nothing about this topic other than what I see you doing on the videos.*
I've watched a few of your videos now where you try white out, foil and ultimately settle on white paint... Why don't you just not worry about any of that, do it as it is then band saw the box section off after forging?
@@FireCreekForge interesting, well I've seen it work really well so can't fault you on it - tried white enamel paint or pottery glaze (glaze the inside of the can and fire it to make a glass layer) or even a watered down clay liner? Sorry, kinda fixated on this one lol I'd watch a video exploring different ideas on it.
bet some chopsticks might be useful for moving that foil back into shape. you'd have a point, flat end and a edge to push it into corners and the length to maneuver deeper into the can.
Sir. Have you try using Stainless Steel Hose Clamps, so there not some much Welding? I am just asking. I saw a Blacksmith doing it and she the only one so Far?
Awesome job maaan!! It almost looks like a dogwood tree flower. Perfect for up coming Easter holiday dinner time!👍🏻 Ps. I’m still waiting patiently for you to make the hammer, when your ready.🙏🏻💪🏼👍🏻👍🏻
I have watched alot of these forge guys make big fancy knives that no one will ever use unless they are mercenaries. I would love to see you make a damascus steel blade for a mower! Now THAT would be functional!! Love the videos and the technical info you give.
Why? You would never see it and the whole point of Damascus is to visually see the patterns you created. Plus it takes way longer to make a patterned steel.
@@david_kg NO, the whole point of damscus steel is to create a blade that has the best characteristics of both of the metals used. It had nothing to do with looks until recently. This technique allowed blacksmiths to create a metal that was both hard, to retain a good edge, and flexible enough to not be brittle. So it would be perfect for a mower blade where you want a longlasting edge but not a brittle blade. If you only want the "look" you can go buy fake etched blades at Wally World for 20$.
Random late question, why not use a canoe canister? You'd be able to dictate the pattern a lot easier. It would have allowed you to set each piece of the core pattern without fear of I getting too distorted when you do your welding passes.
Looks like it ought to be good to me wish I had the extra money to make a order with you I really like and appreciate your work what kind of large bowie could I get for say 600.00 please let me know what we can work out
You should try making a canister out of plaster or cement , and then you wouldn't need to worry about paint or foil . Like a FZ knives does all his in wootz steel builds .
I have a question I see you used the white out as a barrier between the canister and the steel. Why not used a harden-able steel canister so you don’t have to remove it after the initial forging. It might add an extra mosaic layer. I do not forge but it’s something I’ve always wanted to ask when watching forged in fire.
Try putting that whiteout on thinner. Several coats. It's not engineered to go on that thick, so when it dries the surface tension breaks it apart when it shrinks. Why can't a guy just use a few coats of white spray bomb? If all you want is a layer of titanium dioxide inside there, why not a spray bomb? In fact, this might be an interesting video.. testing different internal canister preparations.
Just a question, did you clean the inside of the steel before you applied the white out? If not maybe that is why it didnt stick well? I found that the "Dollar Tree" has BIC White out for only $1/ea and that is much cheaper than anywhere else i have found. A 2 pack at Amazon is $3.90/ea!
Instead of "correction fluid" why not use "good quality" white paint, the white pigment is Titanium Dioxide (in cheap / poorer quality paints it can be Zinc Oxide). Going to be a bit hit or miss which type of paint to use as some have more plastics than others to bind the finally dried paint but it will bond to the inside wall of your can far better. Just a thought.
@@FireCreekForge I was lead to believe all the good quality white paints are Titanium Dioxide, stays white, whereas Zinc Oxide is a bit grey and gets greyer with age. If I come across any, I'll let you know the make (I am in UK).
@@hoperp1951 thanks, i bought some for another project that is supposed to be good stuff, and it says zinc; some paints don’t say either way so hard to know..
I love that you include your mistakes and own them. Great work!
I like how chilled your videos are dude.
I have been with you for a 1/2 a year and now have left alec steele due to lack of edged weapons, and wanted to say thank you for your channel and hard work.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
First time I have seen your beard! I'm jealous! It's the best ever
Is there a "part 2" video? Great work man, congratz
OK guys what do think, will it work??
Looks like it will. Wondering what cable of the same size as the round stock would look like?
@@JohnJohnson-bg2oo cool idea
@@FireCreekForge I saw another fella use copper, cables and a core of 80 crv2, or 15n20 in a cu mai blade that turned out pretty nice, using the same setup you did for forging the cuts together, is what reminded me. Be looking for the finished product.
@@JohnJohnson-bg2oo cool!
Love to see the finished knife. Also ball bearings giving little dots along with the big dots. And turning it to make it an x pattern so it doesn’t look off center
Những sáng tác của Sỹ Luân nghe mãi ko phai.. Phúc hát rất hay và ấm áp
Now stuff some small little ball bearings down the next canister and compare the patterns. Nice work
I kinda thought the same thing, but still like to see how this turns out.
**gasp** It's like Binging With Babish and Alec Steele had a baby! Totally subscribing!!!
@Richard Aubergine I haven't, but thanks for the recommendation, he seems awesome!
This is gunna be so cool. Good job brother
Thanks man!
It's amazing just how handy a spoon can be
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
It’s looking good, the final pattern in the blade will look awesome. Regards from Down Under
Thank you!
I have seen a video where they use Tipp-ex paint on the inside of the can and the shell comes right off when forging. I 100% belive this would work coz I use tipp-ex myself on my Goldsmith work when I don't want solder to flow every where
You are doing some cool stuff! Awesome work!
Thanks!
Awesome pattern ... Thanks for sharing👍
Thanks for watching!
@@FireCreekForge Also a new subscriber
@@bwardokc3985 cool!
You should have added small ball bearings to those voids, that would have been a crazy looking pattern but you have some cool ideas with those patterns
So I go around recommending all kinds of crazy ideas. One has been involving nuts and bolts.
Shurap, one of the guys I watch, did a pattern of nuts and bolts but his orientation was short bolts in nuts side by side horizontally.
My thinking was longer bolts, say six inches, all thread with nuts of different grades thread onto the bolt.
I'm thinking a large bolt, at least one inch, but also a canister job with smaller bolts, but many of them.
The question is, will it weld fast enough to avoid a void between the nut and blot as it is flattened? Or twisting.
Wish I had found this stuff earlier in life as it isn't too late and actually have a couple knives I had been working on, one inherited project my dad was working on, but not welded Damascus, but I'm running out of runway, so to speak, but with a million ideas on how to create patterns..
Latest, canister with different sizes and grades of cable, mixed with nuts and bolts and round and square rod, all mixed in a canister with some powder.
Also, after watching how Shurap arranged them, what about a nut with a ball bearing in the center, flat and horizontal, powder and then another level/row.?
This one, this pattern you just did makes me wonder if you could create letters and then mix and match to spell things?
Who wouldn't want a knife with their name forged into it?
Good job! Interesting pattern!
Thanks!
Can't wait to see the blade that is a interesting pattern 👍👍👍
I’ve seen other videos on canister Damascus and a few that used powdered steel drilled a small hole in the end of the canister. They said that it was there to allow any gasses and other impurities that may form in the can an escape so they don’t end up in the final pattern. I’m not a blacksmith so I’m not sure if that’s needed but it may account for the water that was definitely visible when you were cutting the billet on the chop-saw. Also try drawing out the billet (after removing the can) to 1/2 size the pattern may be smaller but you could try a number of different techniques with the same amount of material.
Looks like you got good looking billet!!
Really cool and unique. This pattern is a 1st for me. Well done!
Thanks!
I love the experimentation process! Cool results man!
Thanks man!
Really cool concept, you really have a great idea.... can’t wait to see the final knife with a mosaic pattern in the blade!
Thanks!
@@FireCreekForge you're welcome
Good stuff, looking forward to seeing the blade and how the pattern looks in the end.
Thanks!
Looks awesome
Great work. Just came across your channel.
Awesome, thanks!
I love canister damascus patterns... love watching your videos!
Hey man!
I just read your message on your channel and I am so happy to hear that you are a Christian!!
Watching your videos I wondered...you can tell a Christian. 👍👍
That forge press works damn good from what I can see.
Anyone else just like his videos before even watching because you know it’s going to be kick ass?
That 10-95 eating up those blades huh....enjoy watching the work. Wish I had more than propane, angle grinder a hammer and anvil at this point... lol BTW nice lines you laid down with that arc welder!
It's working perfect, looking nice. Cheers 👍
You're very impressive to observe. My computer skills are no match for your knowledge.
Stupid question. But wouldn't a metal zip tie be a better idea due to the heat generated from the welding? Sry, just getting into BSing at 40 yrs old and trying to make sure I'm doing it correctly, tnx!
Yes, however it wasn't on long enough for that to happen...
@@FireCreekForge tnx brother! Fingered it wouldn't hurt to ask lol
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls God Bless Ya 🙏
Nice job! Can't wait to see it become a blade
With these metal 3D printers I've wondered if you could make a repeatable patern with the powered steel. It would ki d of be like damasteel I guess but with carbon steel instead. You have awesome ideas thanks for sharing 👍.
Great video, you could call this billet the shamrock. You have a row of 4 leaf clover.
Thanks!
have you tried putting the empty canister in the forge to develope scale inside it so the billet doesnt stick.
Not yet
I wonder,,,, what pattern you would get if you put a different steel powder in each section????
That's cool man.. the possibilities are endless with patterns and materials you can use for that.. great video!
Thanks for watching!
Regular white spray paints mostly use titanium dioxide as a pigment, just use that instead of expensive ass liquid paper. Literally the same thing.
That's what I use now, works great
👍cool pattern.
Me after watching forged in fire show: "oh man he's going really aggressive on that second pass"
“Scraping the earth in search of the essence
Metallic rock ore where iron is present
Extraction smelters burn hot with phosphorescence
Altered shape, affected matter
Giving form, an ominous factor
Never break it, it will never bend
The Anvil was Forged In Fire” - Anvil, “Forged in Fire”, 1983
Great build, I really appreciate the technical details you include
Try this pattern again and use ball bearings as well. I believe the ball bearings will complete the look as well as turning the original pattern to the corners so the lines won’t be as noticeable off center.
Interesting how the powdered steel seems to be darker on the edges of the rods after forge welding. Also how do you get water from forged steel?
It turned out good I've been having luck with the white primer I just spray the can twice
Yeah fill those open areas up with any kind of metal stuff be it little screws, bearings, fishhooks, and or little lock washers
Very cool!!!!!
I would love to know how much the billet weighs in the beginning and how much is lost at the end. I'm just curious
Rustoleum white paint. Spray the inside of the can and dry it with a heat gun.
Yep I use the paint now
Interesting that the 15n20 etched dark.
Yeah and I think the ferric chloride solution was too strong so that contributed I think
@@FireCreekForge Yes. But even with that, it should have been lighter than all of the other steels right?
hello, thank you for the nice video, what is the powder you poured into the iron mold?
Thanks! It is powdered 1095 steel
Use plain Milk of Magnesium to keep the metal from sticking to the sides. What jet aircraft engines hot sections & afterburner sections used on the bolt to keep the nuts from forging together.
i wondered about plain aluminium foil , would form alu oxide
what brand of spoon do you use?
Is there a part 2?
What happened with this? Did you make something with it? If so I can't find the video.
I still haven't..yet
Could you beed blast the interior of a can ?..thus helping the white out to stick..
That would probably help
Where is the knife making video from this this mosaic bar?
Need a small funnel for powdered steel. Easier to fill less waste
I like your videos, just finished watching how to soften tang to drill video. I just finished a nice small integral guard but tang is hard. Will heeping blade portion in water help keep it from heating while i soften the tang?
Yep, that should be fine. I recommend getting the tang up to your target heat as quickly as possible; the heat has less time to travel up to the blade that way.
What about clay to stop the heat from traveling?
You should really stop touching the etching acid with your bare hands. Aside from the obvious danger of chemical burns, that stuff can be absorbed into the body and cause untold problems down the line.
I love these type of comments
You should Mind you’re business .. 😂
@@richmolonlabe2824 yah people should stop trying to help others.
4leaf clover pattern just in time for st Patrick’s day
I would add chrome steel bearings and powdered steel to the can
Good content. Thanks for sharing. Will you be uploading a follow-up video? I'm sure I speak for a lot of folks who are interested to see how it turned out.
Thanks for watching, yeah I need to make a knife out of the billet..
Could you use a stainless steel can to make peeling the can off
Yes
anyone ever suggested making damascus steel 'something' from all of the used canister parts? :D
you could forge weld some thin pieces together back to back, then it will be thick enough to cut into cubes, have a cube based damascus steel knife
Love these experiment videos, really coming up with some neat ideas.
Thanks, it's fun!
what is the name of the liquid where you put the piece of steel?
Just saw the video and looked through your other vids. Have you finished this one yet? No rush. Just curious how it turns out.
Not yet, hopefully soon
What’s the foil for and what material is the foil?
Stainless steel foil, to keep the contents for m welding to the canister
@5:38 have you ever tired using all the steel shavings from all the grinding instead of powdered steel? I mean it goes into a bucket most places ive seen, why not try that?
Maybe next time you can try to pack the container with the powder steel and then place your design in…Using the powder steel as a brace of some sort
Grats
When casting bullets It is recommended to cover the inside of the mold with soot from a flame to prevent the lead from sticking to it. Would this work for this process.
* disclaimer: I know nothing about this topic other than what I see you doing on the videos.*
Try it again but instead of all steel powder add some ball bearings in the mix
I've watched a few of your videos now where you try white out, foil and ultimately settle on white paint... Why don't you just not worry about any of that, do it as it is then band saw the box section off after forging?
I think the white paint is easier for several reasons, plus saves on bandsaw blades
@@FireCreekForge interesting, well I've seen it work really well so can't fault you on it - tried white enamel paint or pottery glaze (glaze the inside of the can and fire it to make a glass layer) or even a watered down clay liner?
Sorry, kinda fixated on this one lol I'd watch a video exploring different ideas on it.
Nice stuff, but you need a mill for surfacing your roughs, tryin to help.
Yes, that would be helpful
what powder is that?
Powdered steel
@@FireCreekForge how do i get it ?
@@lukmansuro6689 I purchase mine from Jantz Supply
@@FireCreekForge ok thx
bet some chopsticks might be useful for moving that foil back into shape. you'd have a point, flat end and a edge to push it into corners and the length to maneuver deeper into the can.
Sir. Have you try using Stainless Steel Hose Clamps, so there not some much Welding? I am just asking. I saw a Blacksmith doing it and she the only one so Far?
I've heard of it, but haven't tried it yet
Awesome job maaan!!
It almost looks like a dogwood tree flower. Perfect for up coming Easter holiday dinner time!👍🏻
Ps. I’m still waiting patiently for you to make the hammer, when your ready.🙏🏻💪🏼👍🏻👍🏻
I have watched alot of these forge guys make big fancy knives that no one will ever use unless they are mercenaries. I would love to see you make a damascus steel blade for a mower! Now THAT would be functional!! Love the videos and the technical info you give.
Why? You would never see it and the whole point of Damascus is to visually see the patterns you created. Plus it takes way longer to make a patterned steel.
@@david_kg NO, the whole point of damscus steel is to create a blade that has the best characteristics of both of the metals used. It had nothing to do with looks until recently. This technique allowed blacksmiths to create a metal that was both hard, to retain a good edge, and flexible enough to not be brittle. So it would be perfect for a mower blade where you want a longlasting edge but not a brittle blade. If you only want the "look" you can go buy fake etched blades at Wally World for 20$.
I like the idea but it might have a cooler designs if you put little ball Berings in the gaps before you put in the powdered steel
Random late question, why not use a canoe canister? You'd be able to dictate the pattern a lot easier. It would have allowed you to set each piece of the core pattern without fear of I getting too distorted when you do your welding passes.
Looks like it ought to be good to me wish I had the extra money to make a order with you I really like and appreciate your work what kind of large bowie could I get for say 600.00 please let me know what we can work out
You should try making a canister out of plaster or cement , and then you wouldn't need to worry about paint or foil . Like a FZ knives does all his in wootz steel builds .
Really think using steel ball bearings may have gave you a better look, good job.
wow it looks like it was 15n20 powder and 1095 sheet
I have a question I see you used the white out as a barrier between the canister and the steel. Why not used a harden-able steel canister so you don’t have to remove it after the initial forging. It might add an extra mosaic layer. I do not forge but it’s something I’ve always wanted to ask when watching forged in fire.
Try putting that whiteout on thinner. Several coats. It's not engineered to go on that thick, so when it dries the surface tension breaks it apart when it shrinks. Why can't a guy just use a few coats of white spray bomb? If all you want is a layer of titanium dioxide inside there, why not a spray bomb? In fact, this might be an interesting video.. testing different internal canister preparations.
Cool
White spray paint works great. The cheap stuff at wal mart is like $2.
Man I can't stop looking at that beard. You would make a Neanderthal jealous! Thanks for the awesome videos
Just a question, did you clean the inside of the steel before you applied the white out? If not maybe that is why it didnt stick well?
I found that the "Dollar Tree" has BIC White out for only $1/ea and that is much cheaper than anywhere else i have found. A 2 pack at Amazon is $3.90/ea!
I cleaned it with acetone.. maybe it's the brand.. Anyway, I've had good luck with white spray paint since this video
use a difus filter for the camera for the welding parts
Instead of "correction fluid" why not use "good quality" white paint, the white pigment is Titanium Dioxide (in cheap / poorer quality paints it can be Zinc Oxide). Going to be a bit hit or miss which type of paint to use as some have more plastics than others to bind the finally dried paint but it will bond to the inside wall of your can far better. Just a thought.
Yes I'd thought of that, haven't been able to find any titanium dioxide content paint yet...
@@FireCreekForge I was lead to believe all the good quality white paints are Titanium Dioxide, stays white, whereas Zinc Oxide is a bit grey and gets greyer with age. If I come across any, I'll let you know the make (I am in UK).
@@hoperp1951 thanks, i bought some for another project that is supposed to be good stuff, and it says zinc; some paints don’t say either way so hard to know..
No hole in the canister for letting gasses escape?