Operation of the Bell and Howell sound projector (1957)
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- Опубліковано 2 тра 2018
- Describes how to set up the projector and speaker, and how to thread and operate the Bell and Howell sound projector. Discusses the importance of regularly cleaning the film path, lubricating the moving parts, and changing the fuse and lamps.
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This just saved my night! Just got my hands on one of these and I couldn’t figure out how to get the film gate open! This is one of the more beautiful projectors I’ve ever touched. It’s so beautifully built and designed. Mind blowing.😊
This was a life saver! We were able to use it help us set up the projector to watch old home movies. We even had to change the projector light! Thank you for sharing!
This projector was made back when Bell & Howell offered a lifetime warranty on the projector.
And didn’t use crappy plastic worm gears that would self destruct
@@oldradiosnphonographs you got that right with the plastic worm gear. They break down.
This level of quality is down right inspiring.
Back when quality was more important than price. No more!
No kidding especially B&H products of the mid-60s on taking a nosedive.
Seems like an interesting chicken-and-egg scenario: if one doesn't know how to operate the projector, how could one have watched this film? :D
Some of the features on this early bell and Howell projector seemed like an inconvenience, like when you have to go from forward to reverse, you have to shut off the projector, disengage the gears by flipping that little lever next to the supply spool reel arm and then put it in reverse and then flipping the supply spool reel lever back to engage the gears and then flipping the projector switch back on it just seemed like a lot of work compared to now a days. And then having to change reels around just to rewind a reel of film. But the one feature I did like was the fact that this projector bulb seemed easy to change.
B&H 385 Series was first produced in 1955 following the one year only 384A. it continued production until 1961 having 12 model revisions in 7 years; beginning with 385B (55-59) 385BA (55-59) 385BR (55-57) 385BY (58-59) 385C (55-58) 385CA (55-58) 385CB (55-56) 385CR (55-58) 385CRA (55-58) 385CRB (55-56) 385CY (58-59) 385K (58-61) ... The 385 & 399 were the last of the 100 - 300 Projector in a Box Series dating back to the 1930's. All using the same 3 Sprocket Film Transport System. Starting late in 1961 B&H produced a new style 16mm Projector (Model 535) that was completely different from the 100-300 Series; not looking the same or sharing even one replacement part. The Early 385 Models shared the same Manual Oiling System with the 3 Snap Cap oilers on top next to the Lamp Chimney and the 3 Sprocket Oiler Holes which you needed to tilt your projector to its left side (sprockets facing vertical) for lubrication. The later and last 302/ 385 Models eliminated the Manual oiling System and went to a Sealed Bearing System or what B&H referred to as Lubricated for Life. This IMHO is the 385 model you should avoid if Looking/Choosing a 385 for Your Own Use. Lifetime Lubrication is a misleading statement. It should say until the Bearing uses up /Drys up the Grease in the prepacked bearing. This is another instance in B&H history where something was eliminated or revised for Cost Saving Measures. The Manual Oiling Models going back to early 100 series were given Lifetime Warranty; and if oiled and cleaned on a regular basis would go beyond your lifetime and your Children also. B&H never gave Lifetime Warranty on Sealed Bearing Models which also includes the 399 model, because the term lubricated for life was just a Sales Pitch. Always look for the 3 visible Snap Cap Oilers when buying late model 300 series Projectors... As Dated as these Projectors are now days. A NIB 385K/399 (if you ever found one) could already have dried up bearings; Stick with Manual Oiler Models. B&H in their Chicago Based Facility made some Great Projectors/Products over the Decades. Don't Confuse the Junk Products you see advertised on TV now days (usually for $19.95) and using the B&H Name. Their Products are a Joke and Disgrace to a Company that once made many of the Best Products in the USA...
I’ve got a 185 Filmosound and I am having trouble with it lately. It has started to break up the film as it’s going through. Mainly the perforations. I started to turn the clutch control to the right just after starting to run the film and turning on the lamp; as per the manual. Previously I’d just turn the clutch to the right BEFORE I ran the film, and didn’t seem to have any problems. I notice a few demos where they do this. Which is correct?
Hi Steve
My 185 has recently started to chew film. Not had this problem before. The take up reel seems to be snatching the film and it’s breaking where the sprockets are. Could you please offer any advice
Paul
I cut my projectionist teeth on the 8399AV, introduced about 1965. Similar in most ways to this but with a 3-position rotary switch (OFF-MOTOR-LAMP) instead of separate line and lamp switches. Those made up most of my high school's projector fleet, but we also had a 399 and several lightweight models (some Autoloads among them) as well. A feature of those latter models that I never liked: speakers cramped into the nose, firing the sound forward - the polar opposite of what it should be.
@@flimbambo I always started with the clutch engaged, never had any problems. I very seldom stopped for a still image, and never reversed during a film.
@@smwca123 Thank you very much for your reply. I’ve tried to load some film a couple of times and they have been chewed/shredded so I’m wary of using my 185 now. I tried some leader I bought but it didn’t thread properly and the sprocket teeth ended running between the perforations instead of through them. Other times, the film was ‘snatched’ and broken off from the bottom sprocket.
Paul
My Filmosound has started to chew films. I've noticed that with no film threaded, my feed reel spindle doesn't rotate in the forward setting.
If there are any Filmosound 202 aficionados viewing this, I have one and have2 problems. The rear “concentrator” (the slide-in glass between bulb and the film gate) is missing on mine. Anyone have an old projector around for parts?
Also, (and this is the real conundrum) when projecting in reverse, picture is nice and bright. When projector goes forward, a damper seems to flip in front of the gate cutting the light level in half. It’s not to protect the film because the film is moving and in no danger of burning. I can’t figure out why it dims or how to correct it. In reverse the picture is perfectly bright.
i have a filmosound 202 . its available for parts.
@@tachyongroove7347 where are you located?
I have recently bought a Bell Howell 631s, with a separate loadspeaker cabinet box. All seems to be in ok shape, but, when I switch the projector-switch ON nothing happens. The switch to the left of that switch, for the lamp, works and the projector lamp lights up. But the projector does not run... I am trying to figure out what is wrong, the projector just does not seem to run. I would be grateful for any indication of what to do.
Assuming that your motor is not running, there are a number of things that could cause this problem.
I would start with fuses as they are the easiest to replace, but indicate more serious issues if they repeatedly blow.
The motor switch might be faulty, although the lamp shouldn't light without the motor switch on. I am not sure whether or not a double pole switch is used on this model. If it is a double, than the lamp safety pole might be working while the motor pole is open.
These projectors also use motors that have carbon brushes in them which can wear out with time. The armature on which these brushes bear could also be clogged up with carbon residue, necessitating a cleaning.
You might also check to see if the motor can be turned by hand. If not, then a bearing is might be siezed, which will require cleaning and lubrication (assuming that it isn't damaged beyond repair). If the motor runs with the clutch disengaged, but not when engaged, then the mechanism will need attending to as it is probably gummed up through lack of use or poor maintainence.
Lastly, wiring might be at fault (uncommon, but not impossible). I am sure that I've left something out, but this should get you started.
These projectors are complicated beasts and can take hours to troubleshoot and repair, even for someone like me who has been working on them for decades. Take your time and learn all you can about how they work. I wish you luck in your quest to save one of these wonderful machines!
Wow they dont make anything like that anymore.
Did anyone else cringe when the model touched the projector bulb with her bare fingers? I have always been told never to do that, since it weakens the glass when the bulb heats up.
I don't think they had that kind of knowledge in the 50s.
It was OK with that type of bulb. It's the quartz type bulbs that you shouldn't get fingerprints on
When B&H made good stuff. Too bad by the 60s the quality took a nosedive, especially with their projectors when somebody thought it was a good idea to make the worm gears with plastic that got brittle and cracked over time. And once B&H ceased making 16mm cameras.