Updated 11 months later see comments: Thank you for this. I actually have two Cruzes in the family. Will buy another kit soon for the second one. I'm an aircraft mechanic so this was an easy fix for me. I did melt the small plastic lines with the heat gun but was able to make it work. Next time I'm going to use some fuel line instead. I brought the car in for service and told them about the check engine light and pcv issue. They told me I needed four new injectors and that the PCV was fine. $600. I held my temper, ordered your kit and now the car is fixed. You are doing what GM should have done in the first place. Thank you.
@@berticusmaximus8381 also note that this engine was used in Opels and vauxhalls before they made it to the US. You'd have thunk the germans would have let GM know of the intake problems
Just updating 11 months after the first post. Put off and forgot about the second Cruze (my other son's car). This week my wife took it to the store and pulled in the driveway with a huge white cloud billowing out of the tailpipe. Covered the entire neighborhood. Engine was squealing and engine light was on. I ordered the second kit and installed it this morning hoping this was the only thing wrong. The intake was full of oil and it took the car 20 minutes to stop smoking. Good to go now. Awesome kit. Thank you again. P.S. I ordered the easy connect kit so I didn't have to heat the tubing. Made the job so much easier. Also the new elbow that replaces the T also made the job faster.
@@berticusmaximus8381 how's your check valve doing in the first kit? I'm seeing some failures from time to time. I have an upgraded check valve coming soon that will last longer, and I re-located the valve in the kit itself.
@@AndreiDPop so far no issues. I have not cleaned or checked it since installed. I will take it out, clean it, and test it as was suggested in the email. Also I will most likely buy the new check valves as well.
I just installed the 3.4 kit on my daughter's 2014 Eco. Engine light immediately extinguished and it runs much smoother. I found the boost hose had a hole in it and was patched with electrical tape so replacing the hose with that much superior hose was worth it alone. Thanks a million!!
Your kit was a total game changer for me. My 2014 Chevy Sonic 1.4L Turbo failed inspection this year. I found the Cat was bad, replaced it and the EVAP readiness didn't change to ready. I looked inside and saw that the PCV valve orange indicator was missing and I could see the hole. A week after installing your kit, I passed inspection. I am so thankful for this design. I bought the latest v3.4+ kit with all the tools included. I am so glad I didn't have to replace my intake manifold. Some things I like about your kit is that the length of the hoses are precisely measured and the wire brush tool was super helpful. I recommend anyone who orders your kit, also buys the tools along with it.
@@NarutoV2DL heat gun isn’t needed anymore. The kit comes with a 4.25” section of hose and 4 extra clamps so you can just cut the nylon off and use the rubber hose instead. Much easier and faster.
@@NarutoV2DL I run the cruzekits site. Right now I’m procoessing orders and shipping them out within one business day and usually same business day if it comes in before 2PM. So all weekend orders will be going out today.
I just wanted to come and personally thank you, I reallly apreciate this tutorial and the kit itself. The mechanic watched your video and everything went smooth. Now my car feels great and there's no more squeal noise, and when the car is in idle, is back to normal. Feels like a new car, thank you again, man.
received my v3 kit today. I was able to put the parts together with little trouble. My Cruze has 150k miles on it so the large nylon tubing just shattered when I tried to cut it. Cleaning he PCV area was a bit rough as it had a lot of built up sediment in it. I only had 1 problem. the rivot to block the hole just wouldn't go in. After about 5 minutes and goo everywhere, I came to realize I needed an alternative. I made a lot more of the schmoo and used 2 Popsicle sticks and let it harden quite a bit. Then with 1 popsicle I put a large amount of the schmoo over the holes, twice. I then used the second clean popsicle stick to smooth out what I had done. I allowed it to dry and put all the new parts on. The engine idled perfectly for the first time in a long time.
I just got done installing a v3 kit. It is quite simple, well thought up, and should be effective once the glue cures. It is amazing how GM's f-up can be fixed with a collection of stuff liable to be found at a hardware store. I recommend practicing the heating of the nylon somehow before doing your first one. I put the "y" carefully in a vice and it moved on me as I was pushing the line on it and ruined it. Luckily, I had some nylon fuel line laying around that I cut off of a vehicle a long time ago and I got it right the 2nd time. I put the heat gun in the vice and wore a glove to keep the heat off of my hand. The plug stuffed into the intake manifold was an interesting process to execute, but easily done with a steady hand and some patience.
Buy this guys I ordered and put mine on and it’s been 2 months now with no issues. My Chevy sonic 1.4 turbo runs great. I was told to buy a new turbo charger but I felt it was not the problem. I’m glad I bought this kit. 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the shout out! It's always great to hear about people saving money and fixing the right issues the first time instead of chasing down parts.
@@hector2340 yes I think that was the code I got. It’s been a while so I have forgotten but I’m pretty sure that was the code. The caris running excellent and I have not gotten any issues ever since I used the kit.
Before I had the kit the car stuttered, and had a loss of power after I mounted the kit with a new valve cover, the car drove like new. 5 stars for the delivery and the good guide on youtube
Did it idle real rough after starting and the go back to idling fine? Also was there a significant “lag” when you would really get on the gas to go? Trying to determine if this will solve my issues thank you
@@_Disturbance_ it did idle real rough back then, and a significant loss of power, Just check your valve cover if it is really sucking air, Most likely a defective pcv valve which goes in hand with some fault codes, I still own the Car, Havent had any problems since adding the kit, It is a real common issue
@@fluppie19dw okay thank you, I’ll check it tomorrow. I did an oil change today and noticed a “sucking” sound so it probably does have leak there. I assumed it was a vacuum line and I pushed it off cause it was getting dark. I’ve been getting Turbo Boost sensor, O2 sensor , Barometric Pressure sensor, loss of power codes for like 2 years unable to track it down. I was planning on replacing the turbo soon so glad I found this. Thanks again
@@_Disturbance_ keep in mind if the valve cover is sucking air you also need to replace the whole valve cover, Because the membrane is broken and isnt replacable on its own
Got my kit today . Took about 30 min to do changed valve cover also . Runs like a champ again . My check ball inside intake was gone . She was pushing oil out valve cover . All fixed now. Thanks for the speedy service. 👍
Having installed this w/o the video, I can tell you its REALLY easy. I had the V2 and I like this kit a lot more just because of how easy it is to install. Just a quick tip, do a test run with the clip stuck to the screwdriver, just dont push it in. Doing so will give you a good feel of where the clip should go and you wont be rushing to get it in there before the epoxy runs off if its still runny. My car sees 26-28psi and this is holding up just fine, zero issues and I was able to install a catch can while I was there.
If you already had the v2 kit on there how did you install the v3? Did you use a different intake manifold that wasn't drilled out for the v2 fittings?
just did this and luckily I had already ordered a new PCV Hose for this car months earlier. Lucky I did because the valve in the bottom part.( near the turbo) eas completely gone. When you take that hose off if you can blow air from that bottom part then the valve is missing. On the new one when you look in that bottom part of that hose connector, you can clearly see the orange valve. You can actually suck through but you shouldn’t be able to blow through it. I simply took the new PCV hose. I got and cut the ends of it off to use instead of the old one. Not expensive at all on eBay or wherever anyways, I think this is something important people should know. If you did it without replacing the bottom part of that hose then you are probably missing that valve also. Should be easily remedied and replaced.
The bottom part of the valve should indeed be checked, but it fails far less often than the manifold does, and it will trip a p1101 when it does. Glad you got that done proactively though!
Kit done. car running great so far. Dre dan has been awesome guy. answered all my questions before ordering and forum questions. Highly recommend his kits.
Thank you for sparing the time on the assembly of the kit. Since there are no instructions included in the V3 kit or even on your website, understanding the assembly of the kit is vague at best.
V3 kit installed today into 2011 Opel Astra with a14net. 185 000 km in clock. Original rubbet pcv was still visible but leakin air when on boost. Tested when valve cover removed. Although, no fault codes. This instruction video helped a lot. Only difference is that there is some sensor in left-back corner where the New pcv-hose is supposed to be fastened. That would have been nice to be mentioned in the video, since the installaation on the video is done on "bare" inlet manifold. Not a problem, fastened the pcv-hose on top of that sensor. I hope the plug holds and and there will be a difference in performance. After testing I will write a post into Opel Club Finland forum so others will get known to this option to fix pcv withous throwing their wallets upside down and inside out...
24 hour cure time aftermath and test drive: I am... amazed how different engine feels after the fix. Feels like different car. No hesitation at low rpm or when changing gear from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd when accelerating from traffic lights or such. When hittin 3000rpm there is noticeable twitch but thats forward and Its time to go. Before it was hard to say when turbo started ti spool. Now the engine feels just like re-mapped 1.4 turbo is supposed to be. Huge thank and high recommendation!
I just ordered the kit for my car. I can't wait for it to arrive and finally get my Cruze where it needs to be. I love my car and want to make it last as long as I can. Thanks for the video and I'll be back if I need help during installation.
(EDITED TO CORRECT TYPOS): I was going to install the kit on my grandson's car this past Thursday, but the manifold port was very grimy when viewed from the top so I decided to wait until I had time to pull the manifold and clean it. When I removed it earlier today, was shocked to find not only the non-return valve missing, but the other end of the port COMPLETELY blocked off. It's much easier to remove the manifold than it initially appears because ALL of the mount bolts are accessible from the top of the car, and seeing where the plug should go is much easier, too. If I hadn't removed the manifold to clean it, the car would probably be blowing out crankshaft front seals for the foreseeable future (it's lost two in the past month). In summary, took me six hours to remove the manifold, put version 3.4 (which includes an extra stretch of 5/16 hose and extra clamps to provide the option of removing the plastic hose altogether), install the manifold, change the valve cover, and replace the blown seal, and clean up all of the oil from the engine bay on a 2013 Cruze with 161000 miles. I'm convinced it is essential to remove the manifold to ENSURE the problem is fixed FOR GOOD if your manifold has been in the car for a while.
I have just inspected mine from the top. Mine was also full of oily grime with no sign of the red check valve. Is there a way to tell if there are further blockages as you describe without removing the manifold?
@@chrishall1263 I suppose it's possible to inspect it if you have an inspection camera available, but cleaning it completely is impossible without removal if yours is as dirty as when I did the job.
@@good4jg ive ordered the kit to fix the check valve issue. once that's done I can attach the pipe and if I can't blow through it there must be a blockage?
Thanks for creating this kit and supplemental video. I just installed this today on my 2013 Cruze that has 93k miles just as preventative maintenance. It surprisingly still had the little orange valve. Did not expect that. Looking forward to many more years of use with this car with your kit to help it. Thanks again!
Glad to help! Usually at that mileage the stock check valve is pretty gummed up or stuck so it’s not even working correctly. It’s not uncommon for the check valve to disappear on people after they clean it.
@@KevinDuganJr like Dre Dan said. I just used a long flat blade screwdriver and rubbed it across like a chisel and it popped right off. I am not so sure it was fully intact at that point anyway by the way it felt.
I used the video tp install one of 2- V3 kits, worked out great and have the second kit preassembled to make the second install go much faster! Thanks Gregg
@@MandrakeRoots cool thank you. One more thing did you notice the small hose that is with the pcv hose does that stay connected? I didn't notice it on his in the video so I just assume it stays connected at the same points
@@brandonvandyke1650 I'm sorry I just cant remember a small hose, but when I get home I'll look things over...but I can't recall any unused parts from kit.
I got the intake manifold and valve cover on my 14 Cruze replaced under warranty. I'm on my own for the next failure and I will be sure to go with the V3 kit. I was not looking forward to removing and reinstalling the manifold. Being able to replace the brittle hose too makes it a great value.
Way easier! I have the V1 kit and a new hose line on mine. This method would have been preferable as the intake does not need to be removed ( I actually procured an extra from a boneyard) and way cheaper as well, but I do like the Bonomi check valve and it's likely less maintenance. Overall the kits in any form are worth the cost. Thanks for taking the time to create them. Now if only you could come up with a cheaper and easier coolant leak kit ....
Thanks. V2 uses a better check valve IMO that theoretically shouldn't need replacing for the life of the vehicle, while this will probably need to be swapped out every 50k-75k miles, but I'll make the check valves available for $8 so it shouldn't be bad. But yeah I needed another design that provided even more value than the last and I came up with a way to install without removing the manifold in the process.
Just installed V3 on my cruze, easy enough, the only was stripping the nylon from the hose cause it was so brittle but a little heat and I was able to peel it of pretty easy. So far so good, thnks.
Howzit Francis, I am having issues with my Astra J and also based in SA. How long did it take for the kit to arrive? Are there any extra charges when the package arrives this side?
FYI AND VERY IMPORTANT. If this part failed then you are likely to also need to replace your cam/valve cover. The pcv in it is part of the cover. If you don't you will likely be changing it in 25k miles anyway. They don't last long when this fixed isn't done. I speak from experience. I'm putting my 4th cover on for the same problem. Also of note this may also cause problems with your catalytic converter as well. Use only Top Tier fuels in your 1.4L engine.
I was lucky that GM recalled the cam/valve covers, and I just had a Chevy dealer replace it for me. but I still have the PO code and check engine light on. I hope this works.
Iv done this kit. Worked great. Over a year later Iv changed the valve cover twice now, the turbo ended up failing and now I can’t find why I’m getting a p015b code.
@@AndreiDPop I removed one end of the check valve and blew into and sucked and air moved freely both directions, can I get this check valve at a parts store?
I live in MN, car did not start up well on negative degree morning and I wonder if it had anything to do with the check valve freezing up or something in the lines?? Ended up having a lot of oil run through the turbo into the exhaust and would kill the engine. Bought a brand new turbo and it happened again a week later. New turbo failed, (it was freezing outside). Was told it was a bad turbo. Got a new one again under warranty. No more oil getting through turbo but I’m lacking power somewhere. I’m afraid of what’s to come this winter with this car. shops don’t want to diagnose ur pcv kit and suggest I replace everything back to stock and start there. I’m going to try a new check valve but I’m pretty sure there is vacuum leak somewhere
@@pokquairyum lots of reasons why a car wouldn’t start up well but a check valve being frozen isn’t one of those. In fact that could potentially make it easier to start since any vacuum leaks on the crankcase or PCV system would become irrelevant. I upgraded the check valves last year in around March then again in a October (just because I could and I wanted the best), and there haven’t been any issues reported with them. Only issues reported were with the original batch. I also relocated the check valve and sent a notice to all owners that the check valve was relocated to be positioned at an angle so it couldn’t accumulate fluids or condensation, which resolved any freezing issues.
@@pokquairyum getting a new check valve isn’t a bad idea but they’re also not hard to check. Shops don’t know how to diagnose anything anymore, they just replace parts. If it was me I’d do a boost leak test (I sell a test kit on cruzekits.com for that as well) to find any boost or vacuum leaks, and I’d throw a new EVAP purge valve on it just to make sure the solenoid isn’t leaking (it wouldn’t show up in a leak test since it’s behind a check valve).
Putting the plug in was next to impossible. I ended up taking out the manifold and dumping a shit ton of epoxy down to fill the hole without bothering with the plug (making sure not to block the passage from case to tube). Seems to work fine. Also had a hell of a time with the nylon. I ended up just cutting off the tubing and putting rubber hose right over the valve with the nylon still over the barbs. This job was a huge pain in the ass but it definitely worked!
The epoxy does not do well directly exposed to hot exhaust gas. That will soften up, expand, and separate, and you will have issues with it down the road. I explicitly recommend against using too much epoxy in the installation notes because of that issue; the epoxy has to be used as a bonding agent between two surfaces, with the clip or a nylon washer and screw (what I use in the V1/V2.1 kits) as an insulator. I'm actually switching the epoxy to JB Weld standard instead of Plastic Bonder because of how many people think it's a good idea to just plaster over the plug with epoxy, then complain that their intake manifold is full of separated slivers of epoxy afterward. You're going to need to take that manifold back off and plug up that hole properly.
@@AndreiDPop noted. I'm gonna coat it with some high temp paint cause that shit ain't coming off now! Haha. Maybe a trip to the junkyard eventually for a redo later down the road
Pretty innovative! I bought the V2 kit and thought it was pretty good, but this new V3 kit looks like it’s even better except for maybe the check valve! Great job👍
V3 check valve issue: My car started running a little rough, and I was also having an issue with oil leaking out of my oil fill cap and dipstick. I noticed that when pulling the dipstick, I had positive pressure. I replaced the seals on both, and I also removed the check valve for inspection. After confirming that there was no air flow whatsoever, I cracked it open(very easily) and noticed that after about 5000 miles, the Viton plunger expanded and conformed to the shape of the housing, preventing it from moving. (defective maybe, it is almost as if the Viton melted and spread out) I ordered 2 more of these and hope for better results. I have also ordered the Brass check valve and barbed fittings and will find a way to support it if/or when I encounter the same issue with the replacement check valves. Update: While waiting for the replacement check valves, I used an exacto knife to trim away the excess rubber that had expanded to conform to the shape of the housing, so that it would move freely again. I use the plastic bond that came with the kit to seal it back up, and it is working somewhat normally. When pulling the dipstick, there is vacuum again, and the car starts to stutter after a few seconds as it should.
Sounds like a defect for sure. I've had some people put over 30k miles on that valve and they've been fine. Apologies for the inconvenience. If it cracked open that easily, it was likely from a defective batch I had back in around March. The new ones are much better consistency. Let me know how the new valves do. If you have any issues, I'll have to go back to my supplier, as Viton is supposed to have excellent chemical resistance and heat tolerance.
Thanks for the clear explanation. I'm still having the check valve in place and I'd install the kit as a precaution so I'm wondering what should I do if the check valve is still in its position? In this video it's kind of assumed it's missing / lost. Thank you!
You can break the tip off that check valve, causing it to fail like it normally does on its own, and install the plug. This would be considered a preventive maintenance install.
Nice version update, this brings up a couple of questions, 1. expecting the unexpected. What happens when someone during install drops that plastic piece? Just remove the intake manifold I suppose, but I can foresee this occurring. 2. the purge valve sometimes goes bad, not often, but not unheard of. How would this be treated? Thx, a happy V2 owner. PS I think if you remove the : in the video description, those times will become clickable as they're currently not.
If they drop the piece inside, they have to take the manifold off. If the purge valve goes bad, you can just replace the nylon with fuel hose or I can get you a replacement Y fitting for under $10. It's a compromise to this kit but fortunately those purge valves don't fail all that often. I'm still considering making the brake booster tee fittings optional. I'll work on the description, thanks for the tip!
TBH though, so far I've had 30 people install this kit and all of them were able to get that plug in there without losing it. That butyl rope really is quite tacky. You'd have to really goof it up to drop that thing down there lol.
Question, if I wanted to add a catch can to the car, would I be able to plum it into this set up, and if so where? Would it go on the "big hose" in this kit heading to the turbo? After installing this hit I noticed a lot of oil and crap in the hoses and some in the turbo from the stock set up. I feel these and most Turbo cars would really benefit from a catch can set up
I have a different T fitting than the one currently in the kit, which could be used with a catch can. That being said, catch cans aren’t something I recommend on these cars. Run a high end synthetic oil like AMSOIL signature series and you’ll see maybe 1/4 of a quart of consumption every 15,000 miles. Not even noteworthy.
@@AndreiDPop ok sounds good. I just got the car from a friend for free because it had a blown head gasket. Other then that the car seems to be in great shape. Just put a new head on it yesterday as well as this kit you are selling. I did research on the cars known issues and that's what brought me to you and this PCV kit. Nice kit by the way. Very easy install. With that yes I am a big Amsoil fan and an Amsoil dealer, so yes I will be using the signature series. I put Amsoil in everything I own from cars, trucks, boat to yard equipment. Thanks 😁👍
Dre Dan I've been analyzing this video and have some other questions. Time stamp 9:40 to 9:45 I see another red flapper check valve, what is that for and is that also an issue and can it be fixed or upgraded? Next when cutting the evap purge line it appears that when cutting the hose and installing your kit it would need to go back together a certain way so that it can be installed just how it came off, meaning the hose and fittings alignment. Same would be said when attaching all the lines and fittings that they are all aligned to each other in the correct manner so when the assembly is built all fittings will be able to be connected without twisting any of the hoses and causing undue stress on any of the parts. Maybe make a short video showing all the fittings on the intake manifold installed and laying out the hoses one at a time and marking them so when it's all finally attached all angles of the hoses and fitting are just how they should be. Thank you for your PCV issue videos, I will be ordering a kit to fix my Cruze. Oh, by the way I was the one asking about ketch cans and do they make sense, if so do you have a PCV kit with a ketch can system. Thanks again.
That second valve inside is for the vacuum chamber, which works in conjunction with the bypass solenoid to control the bypass valve on the turbo. I've not yet seen that one fail, and it wouldn't be serviceable if it did. The EVAP line doesn't really have a specific order. You're only cutting the nylon line off between the terminal and the check valve. Just that one small section. On the updated kit, I include the easy splice option for free, which is a 4.25" section of pcv hose and 4 clamps, so you don't even need to use the heat gun and vice. I'm working on a new video actually because there have been a couple of significant updates to the kit since this one was made. Note however that these rubber hoses get softer when they get hot, so they'll settle in place and shape after a while. I don't really see a need or tangible benefit to a catch can if you're running a low volatility synthetic oil.
I received my V3.4 kit in the mail here in northern B.C. Canada earlier this week after just 9 or 10 days . I am waiting for the weather to warm up a bit as right now it’s close to or freezing every night. I have a question regarding the new check valve and the plug for inside the intake. Does the arrow on the check valve point back towards the purge valve or the other way towards the bigger hose leading to the turbo? Also, the flat part of the plug for inside the intake, does the flat edge go in so it is facing the bottom ( 6 o’clock position ) or does it face up ( 12:00 position ) when it’s in the hole in the intake?
Don’t follow this video. Check the video in the cruzekits.com product page or instruction page. That’s the most recent one. This video is very old and I’ve only left it up for historical purposes and comments.
I am now getting a tighten gas cap message a lot. It follows with a P0299 and P0455 code. Is the pressure of air going from turbo area back to manifold in back? How is this designed. To move pressure front to back or back to front?
the cleaning brush broke off in the intake so I had to remove the intake anyway....turns out there is SO MUCH GUNK in there around 68,000 miles (just bought the car used) but it makes it so so much easier to do the install and really clean out the channels. Everything looks to be hooked up right according to the pictures, crossing my fingers.
Don't run it in reverse. If you run it forward, it's fine, but if you run it in reverse, it unwinds at the hex base, flexes, and breaks off. Shoot me a message on the cruzekits.com site and I'll respond so you can send me some pictures and I can verify the install for you.
@@AndreiDPop ok so I got to drive it when I got home, is it normal for the car to run like absolute garbage for about 15-20 seconds? after that it ran smooth, if not better than before the install and I had full boost power. I'm going to go with it works fine now :D
@@phellankell6762 will take a bit for the car to figure out you disconnected and reconnected the evap purge valve. Did you unplug the battery before you started? The ECU is constantly monitoring all sensors.
@@AndreiDPop I didn't actually unplug the battery at all, but since I had to remove the intake I did unplug a bunch of sensors. It ran extremely rough and sounded like it had an air leak for about 15 seconds before it started running normal. Went and test drove and runs like a champ....odd.
@Dre Dan, I went ahead and sent an email over at the cruze website. It's day 2 after the kit install and it definitely feels like the engine is not performing as well as it did before the install. Idle quality is ok and it doesn't stumble on accel, it mainly seems like the boost was turned down or not getting where it needs to go. I would be happy to email you some pictures of the installed kit for you to look at to make sure I didn't screw something up. Since it's my daily driver and I drive 44 miles a day to work and back, heavily debating returning to stock with a new intake and hoses.
I actually replaced the O-rings on both sides of the nylon hose. Oh reallys has a random set for about $4 I even added a second O-Ring to the turbo side because it had a lot of slop.
Please note that I had a couple of follow ups that I didn't mention until I had cured the vacuum problem. I had done the V3 replacement and that was fine. I have 150k+ miles on my cruze so I assumed my intake was bad. I replaced it and closed off the PCV hole. However, I was getting whistling from around the check valve from the V3 replacement. From what I know now I should have checked the valve on the turbo side of the corrugated tubing. It was bad. I was getting intermittent blow by from it and it blew the check valve out. I bought a new nylon tube and replace the old turbo sides connector. P1101 went away. Then I checked my OBDII tool and found that I was getting a P0299 code which is insufficient turbo boost. Most articles noted that the Turbo needed to be replaced. I noticed that the vacuum purge valve was clatter like a castanet. I then replaced that as well. Now no more codes. and I have replaced any part that could have possibly gone bad for vacuum and intake outside of a turbo.
Typically your engine will be throwing codes for running lean. There is also a simple check to see if this gasket that goes missing is there or not. I believe Andre has another video detailing how to determine if this is a problem for your cruze or not
Larger hose hardest thing to install a little too small .. have some grease on hand to install will make it a little better you ... plese get additional small hose for purge .. will be better
This kit works well, keep in mind this video is not totally accurate for the 3.3 kit (different check valve location). My only issue was with the nylon line. I melted the original one so I bought some nylons fuel line at auto zone and kept trying until I got it. Make sure you change your valve cover if the pcv is leaking
I'm in the process of a new video. Btw on all kits I've shipped, I include a 4.25" section of hose and 4 extra clamps. That's intended to replace the nylon line so no heat is needed.
@@phellankell6762 shoot me a message on the contact form on the cruzekits site and I'll get back to you with some pictures of what it should look like.
I appreciate the video. I'm trying to understand what this system is doing. Sorry if confusing question. I'm just trying to understand which way it normally flows and what the new flow path is after closing valve in side the Intake manifold.... Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer. Perhaps a link to a diagram. Does it normally flow from intake to turbo inlet or vice versa.? And what exactly is closing the check valve hole inside the manifold actually doing and how is the splice actually fixing it? Thanks again.. Great how to video. I guess I'm looking for a detailed why? I do plan on purchasing because my orange nipple is not there.
Nice video. Will this fix my oil odor coming out of my heater? I had my 2012 Cruise intake and injectors replaced after my PVC failed while doing about 90 on a cold near zero morning. It was under warranty back then. Thank you. The oil smells like fresh oil, not burned.
Can any of these plastic angle pieces that the hoses attatch to be replaced with copper pieces? (just for looks basically but definitelywould look very nice I think)
Copper is unusual. Brass is more common. I imagine you could except the current v3.4 uses a custom angle T fitting, and using brass adds unnecessary weight where the strength simply isn’t needed.
Around 6:00 on this video, you describe spraying the port with brake parts cleaner. Where does this brake parts cleaner end up? For someone who hasn't removed one of these intake manifolds, it's a little hard to tell, but it certainly seems like it drains through the cylinder head into the crankcase and ends up in the engine oil. Can you confirm whether this is the case? Shouldn't an oil change, then, be performed immediately after installation of this kit?
It gets evaporated and consumed by the engine. It can’t drain back to the crankcase since that path goes back up through the valve cover before getting to the crankcase. Oil change isn’t necessary.
Custom made. I order them 3500 units at a time. They have my own spec plungers inside for PCV compatibility and extremely low crack pressure. You won’t find anything local. You also won’t find the custom T fitting with the necessary angle to keep the check valve at a downward angle. Also if you’re getting your own hose, you can’t use heater hose and most fuel hose will collapse under vacuum. Only gates 27008 works. Are you trying to replace the valve or making your own kit?
Hello! I have changed the oil yesterday an i taught to check also the purge valve(the orange nippel is present) and the oil separator valve from camshaft cover. With the engine idling i put my finger over the camshaft cover valve i didn't feel no suction then i tucked out the oil level rod and i noticed constant suction from engine. Then i spray whater with soap on the camshaft cover valve and i noticed that it makes some bubbles and that it sucks the water with soap. Is it normal? Should be any suction ? Is my camshaft cover valve close to death? I have no errors and no lights on to the dashboard. Please advice! Thank you in advance!
There shouldn’t be any suction on the valve cover vent. There might be a small leak if it sucks air through, or it might just be the diaphragm flexing like it should. What issue are you trying to resolve? Vacuum on the crankcase is normal but it should be mild vacuum. Place your finger over the dipstick port to seal it to test that. Should not have strong vacuum.
@@AndreiDPop I don't have problems no errors i just wanted to check if they are ok. My car (2017 Opel Mokka B1.4NET) has 62.000 mi never checked any of the vacuum diafragme and i want to prevent any problems.
Just received my fix kit 3.1 updated model and not sure how the final kit will look like t.b.h...will u put up an updated video? The pics available don't make sense to me yet at least
Would this have anything to do with a MAF sensor code? I plan on using the kit for preventative maintenance in the future. But if that’s not why I’m running lean I’m gonna fix the problem first
I have a Dorman intake manifold that I cant see the check valve on because it is back inside the manifold. Will this kit work for that manifold? If so how would I see the check valve and how would I plug the hole?
The kit will work but you’ll need to pull the manifold to install it, or try to cake up the back with epoxy after cleaning it. I can get you a screw and washer to plug up the manifold if you want to go that route. Just put a note in the special instructions box and I’ll add those in for you.
About the kid in installed it. It seemed to fix all my problems in after resetting the codes they all stayed off for a couple months but recently the P0171 and the P0299 are back. Not sure if He could be a sign that I didn't get the plug glued in properly. I checked and it's still there.
this was great video by the way, ive never worked on a newer chevy like this before but youve made everything easy even going above and beyond showing that cut away
By the time i got to my 299 code, i had a cracked turbo housing, intake manifold, and valve cover. Dealer parts totaled over grand by the time it was done.
This is the oldest install video. The kit has been updated to the v3.4 video. You’ll find that updated in-car install video on my channel. If the engine looks the same, it will work. Yes I do ship to Canada. Simply choose the Canada shipping option when you check out on cruzekits.com.
Ordered one for my son’s 2019 Buick Encore 1.4 ltr. Luv engine. His car only has 48,000 Kim’s on it ( just under 30,000 miles. He got a check engine light during a cold snap a few weeks ago. I took it to a friend’s shop and he scanned for codes. The check engine light went off again before the OBD scan. 2 weeks of slightly above freezing temps and no problems. Just this past Monday it was cold again ( -8 to -10 c or 17 to 14F ) check engine light is on again. I haven’t had a chance to look if that orange “ nipple “ is in the intake. If it’s still there can I still install this kit or does the “ nipple “ have to be missing? Will this kit resolve the 14 degree F check engine warning or is this another issue? Gonna install the kit anyways but need the temperature to warm up as I don’t have a garage. By the way, thanks for answering so quickly. I ordered the kit the spare check valves and the tool kit although I have everything except the brush for on the drill. The oil catch can said optional so I passed on that one. Hope that wasn’t a mistake.
On the purge valve would it be easier to use a vacuum line instead of using the heat gun? The heat gun method was not as easy as shown in this video. My hose did not want to expand enough to get over the Y fitting and my hose was trying to melt on me
Sir, the idea behind the kit is wonderful.... but since I'm very poor I had to piece it together myself I have everything except for the check valve where do you recommend I get one or where did you get that one I know it's special.. but again... the money issue. P0299 under boost no power ...im miserable
Send me an email using the form on cruzekits.com. I make these as affordable as possible, but I've seen a lot of people try to do it themselves and end up screwing up part of the kit. I can sell you the check valves (they're available for order now on cruzekits.com) but I want to make sure the rest of what you pieced together will work, because not all PCV hose will work, for example.
Looks like my kit included the "easy splice" option for the evap line, can you describe how to remove the nylon line from the factory evap fittings without damaging them?
I don't have metal fittings but you could do that if you wanted to. You can change the kit as you see fit; it's just a set of DIY parts. If you want a better check valve, you're more than welcome to swap one in.
Hi Dre, the cruzekit V3 PCV fix that you came up with is amazing, But i have a question for you, After installing the V3 PCV kit in any chevrolet Cruze, do I still need to change the Valve cover that was previously sucking air?
@@AndreiDPop Hey Buddy I just installed the v3.4 last night, I forgot not to start the car for 15hrs min. I had it running for 20 secs and noticed a really rough idle like an hour after I plugged the hole and everything assembled. Do you know what might it be for the rough idle?
@@somorethanthis a vacuum leak somewhere. Is the valve cover vent sucking in air? Did you lose the retaining ring inside the pcv pipe manifold terminal? Either way you’ll need to add some epoxy around the plug there to make sure that seals later, but that alone wouldn’t cause the rough idle.
@@AndreiDPop Thanks for the quick reply, I will have to check in a bit if the vent is sucking air. I did not lose the clip car was running fine b4 the install. Just to make sure the check valve arrow should be pointing towards the firewall on v3.4 ?
Hey just curious. I didn't have a heat gun or silicone spray. Figured I can heat it slowly with a torch while I push it on and ya that didn't work lol hose turned to shit quickly. Have to run to canadian tire tomorrow to buy a heat gun. If that fails and I'm not able to salvage the hose you think I can just use similar rubber hose like what's included eith the kit for the purge valve?
@@AndreiDPop ahh ok I'll have look. All i got with the kit was 4 pieces of hose the shorter piece I have goes into the check valve from the y correct? I should've gotten 2 of those small lengths? All good either way I can buy a small length of pvv hose feom else where if need be
All good I found some gas line pvc hose got er all hooked up looks awesome much better than before. See how she runs tomorrow once the epoxy cures. Thanks again👍
@@suspectlikun no, the shorter piece is what you use on the Y fitting instead of the nylon. You need to cut 2” off the longer piece for the check valve. This is explained in the note sheet and on the website.
Can the check valve be removed easily if it’s still in place before installing this kit? This kit looks like a great repair for a common problem, just wondering if it can be used as preventative maintenance beforehand.
I have P0171 and I can't find the nipple in my intake manifold. I'm thinking this kit may help me before the part inside my valve cover fails (is not doing the vacuum thing you can cover your finger with) Just for a little clarification, does this kit plug that hole where the nipple is supposed to be? It looks like that piece you put on the screw driver and slide down in there with epoxy just plugs the hole. What was that nipple supposed to do before? Will plugging that not change anything? Sorry I'm not mechanically inclined and I apologize now if you answered these questions in the video. I assure you I watched the hole thing but I couldn't turn the volume up much where I'm watching from
Yes the kit plugs the hole. That’s part of the design. The nipple was a retaining piece for a check valve flap on the other side. The kit reroutes that check valve externally.
@@AndreiDPop thank you very much! Also if you don't mind having a look at my most recent video. There is supposed to be a bolt in the hole shown, it had broken and fallen out a long time ago but the suction is new to me. Hasn't done that till this week. Any input on that? Is it normal to have suction there but it's normally plugged with bolt? Is it related to my PCV issues? I'm purchasing a new valve cover soon that comes with the bolts so it will be replaced soon, just wondering if I need to 'fix' the vacuum effect that's going on. Or maybe it will fix when I buy the pcv kit
Hey buddy, I have to do front brakes this weekend and would like to do the kit at the same time. Do I have to let the epoxy cure for the full 24 hours? I don't do my mechanical work at home so I'd have to drive the car home afterwards. Hope you see this, thanks for the kit. Cheers!
I cannot seem to load the site to order this! I need this bad! my cars running like shit, I just replaced the valve cover and thought I should do the intake mani then i found this little gem of a video!!! help me!
I’m a 22 year old female and I followed these instructions to a T- THANK YOU!!!!
Updated 11 months later see comments:
Thank you for this. I actually have two Cruzes in the family. Will buy another kit soon for the second one. I'm an aircraft mechanic so this was an easy fix for me. I did melt the small plastic lines with the heat gun but was able to make it work. Next time I'm going to use some fuel line instead. I brought the car in for service and told them about the check engine light and pcv issue. They told me I needed four new injectors and that the PCV was fine. $600. I held my temper, ordered your kit and now the car is fixed. You are doing what GM should have done in the first place. Thank you.
BTW. I think the three thumbs down are GM execs.
@@berticusmaximus8381 also note that this engine was used in Opels and vauxhalls before they made it to the US. You'd have thunk the germans would have let GM know of the intake problems
Just updating 11 months after the first post. Put off and forgot about the second Cruze (my other son's car). This week my wife took it to the store and pulled in the driveway with a huge white cloud billowing out of the tailpipe. Covered the entire neighborhood. Engine was squealing and engine light was on. I ordered the second kit and installed it this morning hoping this was the only thing wrong. The intake was full of oil and it took the car 20 minutes to stop smoking. Good to go now. Awesome kit. Thank you again.
P.S. I ordered the easy connect kit so I didn't have to heat the tubing. Made the job so much easier. Also the new elbow that replaces the T also made the job faster.
@@berticusmaximus8381 how's your check valve doing in the first kit? I'm seeing some failures from time to time. I have an upgraded check valve coming soon that will last longer, and I re-located the valve in the kit itself.
@@AndreiDPop so far no issues. I have not cleaned or checked it since installed. I will take it out, clean it, and test it as was suggested in the email. Also I will most likely buy the new check valves as well.
I just installed the 3.4 kit on my daughter's 2014 Eco. Engine light immediately extinguished and it runs much smoother. I found the boost hose had a hole in it and was patched with electrical tape so replacing the hose with that much superior hose was worth it alone. Thanks a million!!
What codes was it giving you?
@@je7420 I BELIEVE I was getting P0171 and P0420. I am still getting a code but I believe it's something else, P1101.
@@brentfugett2700 same code here. maybe a scientist mechanic will reply to your thread
Your kit was a total game changer for me. My 2014 Chevy Sonic 1.4L Turbo failed inspection this year. I found the Cat was bad, replaced it and the EVAP readiness didn't change to ready. I looked inside and saw that the PCV valve orange indicator was missing and I could see the hole. A week after installing your kit, I passed inspection. I am so thankful for this design. I bought the latest v3.4+ kit with all the tools included. I am so glad I didn't have to replace my intake manifold. Some things I like about your kit is that the length of the hoses are precisely measured and the wire brush tool was super helpful. I recommend anyone who orders your kit, also buys the tools along with it.
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback!!! I’m very glad everything went well for you.
hey did you still need a heat gun like in video? i just ordered mine, site says no heat gun?
@@NarutoV2DL heat gun isn’t needed anymore. The kit comes with a 4.25” section of hose and 4 extra clamps so you can just cut the nylon off and use the rubber hose instead. Much easier and faster.
@@AndreiDPop Much thanks for the info, Now hoping they ship this fast lol. Cars expected on a long trip soon fingers crossed.
@@NarutoV2DL I run the cruzekits site. Right now I’m procoessing orders and shipping them out within one business day and usually same business day if it comes in before 2PM. So all weekend orders will be going out today.
I just wanted to come and personally thank you, I reallly apreciate this tutorial and the kit itself. The mechanic watched your video and everything went smooth. Now my car feels great and there's no more squeal noise, and when the car is in idle, is back to normal. Feels like a new car, thank you again, man.
received my v3 kit today. I was able to put the parts together with little trouble. My Cruze has 150k miles on it so the large nylon tubing just shattered when I tried to cut it. Cleaning he PCV area was a bit rough as it had a lot of built up sediment in it. I only had 1 problem. the rivot to block the hole just wouldn't go in. After about 5 minutes and goo everywhere, I came to realize I needed an alternative. I made a lot more of the schmoo and used 2 Popsicle sticks and let it harden quite a bit. Then with 1 popsicle I put a large amount of the schmoo over the holes, twice. I then used the second clean popsicle stick to smooth out what I had done. I allowed it to dry and put all the new parts on. The engine idled perfectly for the first time in a long time.
I just got done installing a v3 kit. It is quite simple, well thought up, and should be effective once the glue cures. It is amazing how GM's f-up can be fixed with a collection of stuff liable to be found at a hardware store. I recommend practicing the heating of the nylon somehow before doing your first one. I put the "y" carefully in a vice and it moved on me as I was pushing the line on it and ruined it. Luckily, I had some nylon fuel line laying around that I cut off of a vehicle a long time ago and I got it right the 2nd time. I put the heat gun in the vice and wore a glove to keep the heat off of my hand.
The plug stuffed into the intake manifold was an interesting process to execute, but easily done with a steady hand and some patience.
Buy this guys I ordered and put mine on and it’s been 2 months now with no issues. My Chevy sonic 1.4 turbo runs great. I was told to buy a new turbo charger but I felt it was not the problem. I’m glad I bought this kit. 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the shout out! It's always great to hear about people saving money and fixing the right issues the first time instead of chasing down parts.
@@AndreiDPop welcome and thanks 👍👍👍👍
Did you get a p0299 code originally?
@@hector2340 yes I think that was the code I got. It’s been a while so I have forgotten but I’m pretty sure that was the code. The caris running excellent and I have not gotten any issues ever since I used the kit.
@@TheGabriel116 thanks. I have that code but am not losing power. I never replaced my intake manifold so I’m starting here. Fingers crossed
Before I had the kit the car stuttered, and had a loss of power after I mounted the kit with a new valve cover, the car drove like new. 5 stars for the delivery and the good guide on youtube
Did it idle real rough after starting and the go back to idling fine? Also was there a significant “lag” when you would really get on the gas to go? Trying to determine if this will solve my issues thank you
@@_Disturbance_ it did idle real rough back then, and a significant loss of power, Just check your valve cover if it is really sucking air, Most likely a defective pcv valve which goes in hand with some fault codes, I still own the Car, Havent had any problems since adding the kit, It is a real common issue
@@fluppie19dw okay thank you, I’ll check it tomorrow. I did an oil change today and noticed a “sucking” sound so it probably does have leak there. I assumed it was a vacuum line and I pushed it off cause it was getting dark. I’ve been getting Turbo Boost sensor, O2 sensor , Barometric Pressure sensor, loss of power codes for like 2 years unable to track it down. I was planning on replacing the turbo soon so glad I found this. Thanks again
@@_Disturbance_ keep in mind if the valve cover is sucking air you also need to replace the whole valve cover, Because the membrane is broken and isnt replacable on its own
Removing the intake manifold was very intimidating so this V3 is a sent from heaven. Will order for sure :)
Got my kit today . Took about 30 min to do changed valve cover also . Runs like a champ again . My check ball inside intake was gone . She was pushing oil out valve cover . All fixed now. Thanks for the speedy service. 👍
Awesome, that was fast!
I have the same issue. Which version is best recommended?
@@BigDaddy-ih9de I got the one with everything
Having installed this w/o the video, I can tell you its REALLY easy. I had the V2 and I like this kit a lot more just because of how easy it is to install. Just a quick tip, do a test run with the clip stuck to the screwdriver, just dont push it in. Doing so will give you a good feel of where the clip should go and you wont be rushing to get it in there before the epoxy runs off if its still runny. My car sees 26-28psi and this is holding up just fine, zero issues and I was able to install a catch can while I was there.
If you already had the v2 kit on there how did you install the v3? Did you use a different intake manifold that wasn't drilled out for the v2 fittings?
@@justinv3080 used a different intake manifold
just did this and luckily I had already ordered a new PCV Hose for this car months earlier. Lucky I did because the valve in the bottom part.( near the turbo) eas completely gone. When you take that hose off if you can blow air from that bottom part then the valve is missing. On the new one when you look in that bottom part of that hose connector, you can clearly see the orange valve. You can actually suck through but you shouldn’t be able to blow through it.
I simply took the new PCV hose. I got and cut the ends of it off to use instead of the old one. Not expensive at all on eBay or wherever anyways, I think this is something important people should know. If you did it without replacing the bottom part of that hose then you are probably missing that valve also. Should be easily remedied and replaced.
The bottom part of the valve should indeed be checked, but it fails far less often than the manifold does, and it will trip a p1101 when it does. Glad you got that done proactively though!
Great kit easy to install saved me $900.00 at the dealer
Kit done. car running great so far. Dre dan has been awesome guy. answered all my questions before ordering and forum questions. Highly recommend his kits.
Thanks for all your hard work. Installed mine today, with no trouble, thanks to your products and videos.
Thank you for sparing the time on the assembly of the kit. Since there are no instructions included in the V3 kit or even on your website, understanding the assembly of the kit is vague at best.
V3 kit installed today into 2011 Opel Astra with a14net. 185 000 km in clock. Original rubbet pcv was still visible but leakin air when on boost. Tested when valve cover removed. Although, no fault codes.
This instruction video helped a lot. Only difference is that there is some sensor in left-back corner where the New pcv-hose is supposed to be fastened. That would have been nice to be mentioned in the video, since the installaation on the video is done on "bare" inlet manifold. Not a problem, fastened the pcv-hose on top of that sensor.
I hope the plug holds and and there will be a difference in performance.
After testing I will write a post into Opel Club Finland forum so others will get known to this option to fix pcv withous throwing their wallets upside down and inside out...
Thank you for the feedback! Please let me know if I can help in any other way.
24 hour cure time aftermath and test drive: I am... amazed how different engine feels after the fix. Feels like different car. No hesitation at low rpm or when changing gear from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd when accelerating from traffic lights or such. When hittin 3000rpm there is noticeable twitch but thats forward and Its time to go. Before it was hard to say when turbo started ti spool.
Now the engine feels just like re-mapped 1.4 turbo is supposed to be.
Huge thank and high recommendation!
I just ordered the kit for my car. I can't wait for it to arrive and finally get my Cruze where it needs to be. I love my car and want to make it last as long as I can. Thanks for the video and I'll be back if I need help during installation.
just finished installing this kit today super stoked on how it came out. looks completely oem under the hood and install was super straight forward.
(EDITED TO CORRECT TYPOS): I was going to install the kit on my grandson's car this past Thursday, but the manifold port was very grimy when viewed from the top so I decided to wait until I had time to pull the manifold and clean it. When I removed it earlier today, was shocked to find not only the non-return valve missing, but the other end of the port COMPLETELY blocked off. It's much easier to remove the manifold than it initially appears because ALL of the mount bolts are accessible from the top of the car, and seeing where the plug should go is much easier, too. If I hadn't removed the manifold to clean it, the car would probably be blowing out crankshaft front seals for the foreseeable future (it's lost two in the past month). In summary, took me six hours to remove the manifold, put version 3.4 (which includes an extra stretch of 5/16 hose and extra clamps to provide the option of removing the plastic hose altogether), install the manifold, change the valve cover, and replace the blown seal, and clean up all of the oil from the engine bay on a 2013 Cruze with 161000 miles. I'm convinced it is essential to remove the manifold to ENSURE the problem is fixed FOR GOOD if your manifold has been in the car for a while.
I have just inspected mine from the top. Mine was also full of oily grime with no sign of the red check valve. Is there a way to tell if there are further blockages as you describe without removing the manifold?
@@chrishall1263 I suppose it's possible to inspect it if you have an inspection camera available, but cleaning it completely is impossible without removal if yours is as dirty as when I did the job.
@@good4jg ive ordered the kit to fix the check valve issue. once that's done I can attach the pipe and if I can't blow through it there must be a blockage?
@@chrishall1263 I'm not sure. I only knew about the problem on my grandson's car because I pulled the manifold.
Thanks for creating this kit and supplemental video. I just installed this today on my 2013 Cruze that has 93k miles just as preventative maintenance. It surprisingly still had the little orange valve. Did not expect that. Looking forward to many more years of use with this car with your kit to help it. Thanks again!
Glad to help! Usually at that mileage the stock check valve is pretty gummed up or stuck so it’s not even working correctly. It’s not uncommon for the check valve to disappear on people after they clean it.
How did you pop out/in the orange nipple valve?
@@KevinDuganJr you can hit it with a flathead screwdriver with your palm.
@@KevinDuganJr like Dre Dan said. I just used a long flat blade screwdriver and rubbed it across like a chisel and it popped right off. I am not so sure it was fully intact at that point anyway by the way it felt.
I used the video tp install one of 2- V3 kits, worked out great and have the second kit preassembled to make the second install go much faster! Thanks Gregg
The V2 kit went together very nicely,,,its not a bad job to remove the intake...thanks for engineering this kit
Do you plug the left side of the evap line with the stock hose or just leave it how he has it
@@brandonvandyke1650 I just installed it exactly how the video instructed.
@@MandrakeRoots cool thank you. One more thing did you notice the small hose that is with the pcv hose does that stay connected? I didn't notice it on his in the video so I just assume it stays connected at the same points
@@brandonvandyke1650 I'm sorry I just cant remember a small hose, but when I get home I'll look things over...but I can't recall any unused parts from kit.
@@MandrakeRoots thank you very much. I'm not knowlaged on engines and what not so I appreciate your input.
Cleaning the pcv plumbing real good
I am an absolute car know nothing and now I understand my engine better and finally my sonic idles normally.
I got the intake manifold and valve cover on my 14 Cruze replaced under warranty. I'm on my own for the next failure and I will be sure to go with the V3 kit. I was not looking forward to removing and reinstalling the manifold. Being able to replace the brittle hose too makes it a great value.
This one is V 3 is great but the V 2 gave me the confidence in the how to of taken my manifold apart without panic
Good to hear! Just make sure that brake booster tee and manifold nipple where it connects stays clean and the v2 should last you a long time.
Way easier! I have the V1 kit and a new hose line on mine. This method would have been preferable as the intake does not need to be removed ( I actually procured an extra from a boneyard) and way cheaper as well, but I do like the Bonomi check valve and it's likely less maintenance. Overall the kits in any form are worth the cost. Thanks for taking the time to create them. Now if only you could come up with a cheaper and easier coolant leak kit ....
Well this was a fun first project to do on my Sonic. That little plug was a B to get in! Thanks for the video!
What a legend !!!! Just spoke to him on the phone what a nice guy . Ordered the V3 can’t wait to install it . Thanks again
Thanks again for the call!
Man I wish this was available when I ordered V2! Great job continuing to improve your product.
Thanks. V2 uses a better check valve IMO that theoretically shouldn't need replacing for the life of the vehicle, while this will probably need to be swapped out every 50k-75k miles, but I'll make the check valves available for $8 so it shouldn't be bad. But yeah I needed another design that provided even more value than the last and I came up with a way to install without removing the manifold in the process.
This was a very clear and to the point tutorial, thanks for posting! 👍
Just installed V3 on my cruze, easy enough, the only was stripping the nylon from the hose cause it was so brittle but a little heat and I was able to peel it of pretty easy. So far so good, thnks.
Thank you Dre Dan I had used method of v3 it has save me a fortune here in South Africa
Howzit Francis, I am having issues with my Astra J and also based in SA. How long did it take for the kit to arrive? Are there any extra charges when the package arrives this side?
Great design! This helps me with finding a way to install a oil ketch can, thanks!
Oh yeah, this will make catch can integration much easier! You can run a 3-way catch can with this kit and clean both the vacuum and boost PCV paths.
FYI AND VERY IMPORTANT. If this part failed then you are likely to also need to replace your cam/valve cover. The pcv in it is part of the cover. If you don't you will likely be changing it in 25k miles anyway. They don't last long when this fixed isn't done. I speak from experience. I'm putting my 4th cover on for the same problem. Also of note this may also cause problems with your catalytic converter as well. Use only Top Tier fuels in your 1.4L engine.
I was lucky that GM recalled the cam/valve covers, and I just had a Chevy dealer replace it for me. but I still have the PO code and check engine light on. I hope this works.
This sure would have saved me alot of grief removing the intake manifold when I installed your V2 kit. Glad it's available though.
Great service . He got it on the way to me over night.thanks for your promptness.
Your video is amazing and very well explained and to the point. One of the best utube videos I've watched
Just ordered a kit for my brother car. Thanks for this kit. Post on how it goes.
Iv done this kit. Worked great. Over a year later Iv changed the valve cover twice now, the turbo ended up failing and now I can’t find why I’m getting a p015b code.
OEM valve covers? Which way do you have the check valve pointing?
P015B should be an O2 sensor, upstream. The one that goes into the downpipe
@@AndreiDPop I removed one end of the check valve and blew into and sucked and air moved freely both directions, can I get this check valve at a parts store?
I live in MN, car did not start up well on negative degree morning and I wonder if it had anything to do with the check valve freezing up or something in the lines?? Ended up having a lot of oil run through the turbo into the exhaust and would kill the engine. Bought a brand new turbo and it happened again a week later. New turbo failed, (it was freezing outside). Was told it was a bad turbo. Got a new one again under warranty. No more oil getting through turbo but I’m lacking power somewhere. I’m afraid of what’s to come this winter with this car. shops don’t want to diagnose ur pcv kit and suggest I replace everything back to stock and start there. I’m going to try a new check valve but I’m pretty sure there is vacuum leak somewhere
@@pokquairyum lots of reasons why a car wouldn’t start up well but a check valve being frozen isn’t one of those. In fact that could potentially make it easier to start since any vacuum leaks on the crankcase or PCV system would become irrelevant. I upgraded the check valves last year in around March then again in a October (just because I could and I wanted the best), and there haven’t been any issues reported with them. Only issues reported were with the original batch. I also relocated the check valve and sent a notice to all owners that the check valve was relocated to be positioned at an angle so it couldn’t accumulate fluids or condensation, which resolved any freezing issues.
@@pokquairyum getting a new check valve isn’t a bad idea but they’re also not hard to check. Shops don’t know how to diagnose anything anymore, they just replace parts.
If it was me I’d do a boost leak test (I sell a test kit on cruzekits.com for that as well) to find any boost or vacuum leaks, and I’d throw a new EVAP purge valve on it just to make sure the solenoid isn’t leaking (it wouldn’t show up in a leak test since it’s behind a check valve).
Putting the plug in was next to impossible. I ended up taking out the manifold and dumping a shit ton of epoxy down to fill the hole without bothering with the plug (making sure not to block the passage from case to tube). Seems to work fine. Also had a hell of a time with the nylon. I ended up just cutting off the tubing and putting rubber hose right over the valve with the nylon still over the barbs. This job was a huge pain in the ass but it definitely worked!
The epoxy does not do well directly exposed to hot exhaust gas. That will soften up, expand, and separate, and you will have issues with it down the road. I explicitly recommend against using too much epoxy in the installation notes because of that issue; the epoxy has to be used as a bonding agent between two surfaces, with the clip or a nylon washer and screw (what I use in the V1/V2.1 kits) as an insulator.
I'm actually switching the epoxy to JB Weld standard instead of Plastic Bonder because of how many people think it's a good idea to just plaster over the plug with epoxy, then complain that their intake manifold is full of separated slivers of epoxy afterward. You're going to need to take that manifold back off and plug up that hole properly.
@@AndreiDPop noted. I'm gonna coat it with some high temp paint cause that shit ain't coming off now! Haha. Maybe a trip to the junkyard eventually for a redo later down the road
@@zakaryreilly check the port periodically.
Lol just beasting the job🤣🤣🤣
Just bought this kit, instructions seem clear and easy enough.
Pretty innovative! I bought the V2 kit and thought it was pretty good, but this new V3 kit looks like it’s even better except for maybe the check valve! Great job👍
Aye, the check valve isn't as good on this one. I like the check valve on the v2 better since its comically over-built for this application.
@@AndreiDPop can you use the v2 with this kit? I ordered a couple extras. Also any word of the new valve you were talking about?
V3 check valve issue:
My car started running a little rough, and I was also having an issue with oil leaking out of my oil fill cap and dipstick. I noticed that when pulling the dipstick, I had positive pressure. I replaced the seals on both, and I also removed the check valve for inspection. After confirming that there was no air flow whatsoever, I cracked it open(very easily) and noticed that after about 5000 miles, the Viton plunger expanded and conformed to the shape of the housing, preventing it from moving. (defective maybe, it is almost as if the Viton melted and spread out) I ordered 2 more of these and hope for better results. I have also ordered the Brass check valve and barbed fittings and will find a way to support it if/or when I encounter the same issue with the replacement check valves.
Update: While waiting for the replacement check valves, I used an exacto knife to trim away the excess rubber that had expanded to conform to the shape of the housing, so that it would move freely again. I use the plastic bond that came with the kit to seal it back up, and it is working somewhat normally. When pulling the dipstick, there is vacuum again, and the car starts to stutter after a few seconds as it should.
Sounds like a defect for sure. I've had some people put over 30k miles on that valve and they've been fine. Apologies for the inconvenience. If it cracked open that easily, it was likely from a defective batch I had back in around March. The new ones are much better consistency. Let me know how the new valves do. If you have any issues, I'll have to go back to my supplier, as Viton is supposed to have excellent chemical resistance and heat tolerance.
You've got my money thank you..not all heroes wear capes.
Thanks for the clear explanation. I'm still having the check valve in place and I'd install the kit as a precaution so I'm wondering what should I do if the check valve is still in its position? In this video it's kind of assumed it's missing / lost. Thank you!
You can break the tip off that check valve, causing it to fail like it normally does on its own, and install the plug. This would be considered a preventive maintenance install.
@@AndreiDPop Thank you. I thought I could somehow glue it in its closed position. Maybe you can figure a way how to do that? 🙂
@@ImreVeres0 it’s a silicone check valve so not much will bond to that in a reliable way.
@@AndreiDPop my check valve is also still there. how do i break off this tip? what tool do i use?
@@steffy8989 you can break it off with a flathead screwdriver. Then just make sure the center hole is clear with a pick or stiff wire.
Nice version update, this brings up a couple of questions, 1. expecting the unexpected. What happens when someone during install drops that plastic piece? Just remove the intake manifold I suppose, but I can foresee this occurring. 2. the purge valve sometimes goes bad, not often, but not unheard of. How would this be treated? Thx, a happy V2 owner. PS I think if you remove the : in the video description, those times will become clickable as they're currently not.
If they drop the piece inside, they have to take the manifold off. If the purge valve goes bad, you can just replace the nylon with fuel hose or I can get you a replacement Y fitting for under $10. It's a compromise to this kit but fortunately those purge valves don't fail all that often. I'm still considering making the brake booster tee fittings optional.
I'll work on the description, thanks for the tip!
TBH though, so far I've had 30 people install this kit and all of them were able to get that plug in there without losing it. That butyl rope really is quite tacky. You'd have to really goof it up to drop that thing down there lol.
I lost mine in there. Oh well 😂 I just globbed a ton of that epoxy on the hole and let her ride
Note :Silicone can damaged a O2 sensor. Great video 👍
Aye, but just used as a lubricant on some fittings won't make the slightest difference in that regard.
Question, if I wanted to add a catch can to the car, would I be able to plum it into this set up, and if so where? Would it go on the "big hose" in this kit heading to the turbo?
After installing this hit I noticed a lot of oil and crap in the hoses and some in the turbo from the stock set up. I feel these and most Turbo cars would really benefit from a catch can set up
I have a different T fitting than the one currently in the kit, which could be used with a catch can. That being said, catch cans aren’t something I recommend on these cars. Run a high end synthetic oil like AMSOIL signature series and you’ll see maybe 1/4 of a quart of consumption every 15,000 miles. Not even noteworthy.
@@AndreiDPop ok sounds good. I just got the car from a friend for free because it had a blown head gasket. Other then that the car seems to be in great shape. Just put a new head on it yesterday as well as this kit you are selling. I did research on the cars known issues and that's what brought me to you and this PCV kit. Nice kit by the way. Very easy install. With that yes I am a big Amsoil fan and an Amsoil dealer, so yes I will be using the signature series. I put Amsoil in everything I own from cars, trucks, boat to yard equipment. Thanks 😁👍
Hey do you have a video on adding a catch can to it
Dre Dan I've been analyzing this video and have some other questions. Time stamp 9:40 to 9:45 I see another red flapper check valve, what is that for and is that also an issue and can it be fixed or upgraded? Next when cutting the evap purge line it appears that when cutting the hose and installing your kit it would need to go back together a certain way so that it can be installed just how it came off, meaning the hose and fittings alignment. Same would be said when attaching all the lines and fittings that they are all aligned to each other in the correct manner so when the assembly is built all fittings will be able to be connected without twisting any of the hoses and causing undue stress on any of the parts. Maybe make a short video showing all the fittings on the intake manifold installed and laying out the hoses one at a time and marking them so when it's all finally attached all angles of the hoses and fitting are just how they should be. Thank you for your PCV issue videos, I will be ordering a kit to fix my Cruze. Oh, by the way I was the one asking about ketch cans and do they make sense, if so do you have a PCV kit with a ketch can system. Thanks again.
That second valve inside is for the vacuum chamber, which works in conjunction with the bypass solenoid to control the bypass valve on the turbo. I've not yet seen that one fail, and it wouldn't be serviceable if it did.
The EVAP line doesn't really have a specific order. You're only cutting the nylon line off between the terminal and the check valve. Just that one small section. On the updated kit, I include the easy splice option for free, which is a 4.25" section of pcv hose and 4 clamps, so you don't even need to use the heat gun and vice.
I'm working on a new video actually because there have been a couple of significant updates to the kit since this one was made. Note however that these rubber hoses get softer when they get hot, so they'll settle in place and shape after a while. I don't really see a need or tangible benefit to a catch can if you're running a low volatility synthetic oil.
Hi Dan, I want to what will happen to the vacuum bypass line when we replace the old pcv hose with the new 3.4 kits. Thanks.
@@md.saifulislamchowdhurynip7902 you need to leave that bypass line in place.
What would you think is the problem if I'm getting p0299 but no check engine light???
Well hello! I wish I knew this was coming. Lol I just did it 2 months ago. Wasn't bad but definitely would have been easier! Lol oh well.
I received my V3.4 kit in the mail here in northern B.C. Canada earlier this week after just 9 or 10 days . I am waiting for the weather to warm up a bit as right now it’s close to or freezing every night. I have a question regarding the new check valve and the plug for inside the intake. Does the arrow on the check valve point back towards the purge valve or the other way towards the bigger hose leading to the turbo? Also, the flat part of the plug for inside the intake, does the flat edge go in so it is facing the bottom ( 6 o’clock position ) or does it face up ( 12:00 position ) when it’s in the hole in the intake?
Don’t follow this video. Check the video in the cruzekits.com product page or instruction page. That’s the most recent one. This video is very old and I’ve only left it up for historical purposes and comments.
I am now getting a tighten gas cap message a lot. It follows with a P0299 and P0455 code. Is the pressure of air going from turbo area back to manifold in back? How is this designed. To move pressure front to back or back to front?
the cleaning brush broke off in the intake so I had to remove the intake anyway....turns out there is SO MUCH GUNK in there around 68,000 miles (just bought the car used) but it makes it so so much easier to do the install and really clean out the channels. Everything looks to be hooked up right according to the pictures, crossing my fingers.
Don't run it in reverse. If you run it forward, it's fine, but if you run it in reverse, it unwinds at the hex base, flexes, and breaks off. Shoot me a message on the cruzekits.com site and I'll respond so you can send me some pictures and I can verify the install for you.
@@AndreiDPop ok so I got to drive it when I got home, is it normal for the car to run like absolute garbage for about 15-20 seconds? after that it ran smooth, if not better than before the install and I had full boost power. I'm going to go with it works fine now :D
@@phellankell6762 will take a bit for the car to figure out you disconnected and reconnected the evap purge valve. Did you unplug the battery before you started? The ECU is constantly monitoring all sensors.
@@AndreiDPop I didn't actually unplug the battery at all, but since I had to remove the intake I did unplug a bunch of sensors. It ran extremely rough and sounded like it had an air leak for about 15 seconds before it started running normal. Went and test drove and runs like a champ....odd.
@Dre Dan, I went ahead and sent an email over at the cruze website. It's day 2 after the kit install and it definitely feels like the engine is not performing as well as it did before the install. Idle quality is ok and it doesn't stumble on accel, it mainly seems like the boost was turned down or not getting where it needs to go. I would be happy to email you some pictures of the installed kit for you to look at to make sure I didn't screw something up. Since it's my daily driver and I drive 44 miles a day to work and back, heavily debating returning to stock with a new intake and hoses.
just ordered
Thank you! Be sure to read the note sheet in the kit as well.
Nicely done
What about the other check valve in the return hose at the turbo?
That one usually works well enough for a long time and just needs some cleaning with carb cleaner.
I actually replaced the O-rings on both sides of the nylon hose. Oh reallys has a random set for about $4 I even added a second O-Ring to the turbo side because it had a lot of slop.
Please note that I had a couple of follow ups that I didn't mention until I had cured the vacuum problem. I had done the V3 replacement and that was fine. I have 150k+ miles on my cruze so I assumed my intake was bad. I replaced it and closed off the PCV hole. However, I was getting whistling from around the check valve from the V3 replacement. From what I know now I should have checked the valve on the turbo side of the corrugated tubing. It was bad. I was getting intermittent blow by from it and it blew the check valve out. I bought a new nylon tube and replace the old turbo sides connector. P1101 went away. Then I checked my OBDII tool and found that I was getting a P0299 code which is insufficient turbo boost. Most articles noted that the Turbo needed to be replaced. I noticed that the vacuum purge valve was clatter like a castanet. I then replaced that as well. Now no more codes. and I have replaced any part that could have possibly gone bad for vacuum and intake outside of a turbo.
What symptom does the car have to indicate this is needed. I am getting some hesitation when accelerating just after stopping.
Typically your engine will be throwing codes for running lean. There is also a simple check to see if this gasket that goes missing is there or not. I believe Andre has another video detailing how to determine if this is a problem for your cruze or not
Code PO299
Larger hose hardest thing to install a little too small .. have some grease on hand to install will make it a little better you ... plese get additional small hose for purge .. will be better
This kit works well, keep in mind this video is not totally accurate for the 3.3 kit (different check valve location). My only issue was with the nylon line. I melted the original one so I bought some nylons fuel line at auto zone and kept trying until I got it.
Make sure you change your valve cover if the pcv is leaking
I'm in the process of a new video. Btw on all kits I've shipped, I include a 4.25" section of hose and 4 extra clamps. That's intended to replace the nylon line so no heat is needed.
@@AndreiDPop I need the new video, pretty I installed it wrong.
@@phellankell6762 shoot me a message on the contact form on the cruzekits site and I'll get back to you with some pictures of what it should look like.
I appreciate the video.
I'm trying to understand what this system is doing.
Sorry if confusing question. I'm just trying to understand which way it normally flows and what the new flow path is after closing valve in side the Intake manifold....
Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer.
Perhaps a link to a diagram.
Does it normally flow from intake to turbo inlet or vice versa.? And what exactly is closing the check valve hole inside the manifold actually doing and how is the splice actually fixing it?
Thanks again.. Great how to video. I guess I'm looking for a detailed why? I do plan on purchasing because my orange nipple is not there.
Refer to this article. Let me know if you want further clarification. cruzekits.com/tech-articles/f/why-do-we-even-need-a-pcv-system
Nice video. Will this fix my oil odor coming out of my heater? I had my 2012 Cruise intake and injectors replaced after my PVC failed while doing about 90 on a cold near zero morning. It was under warranty back then. Thank you. The oil smells like fresh oil, not burned.
I wouldn't know if that would fix it or not without further diagnosis of your issue. You might have an external leak somewhere.
Will this kit work on a intake that’s been bought from Amazon
I would like to know what is the cost of one of those repair kits for the Chevi cruise, including shipping and handling in Belize?
I’ll get a quote to you on Monday or Tuesday at latest.
Excellent job...
Can any of these plastic angle pieces that the hoses attatch to be replaced with copper pieces? (just for looks basically but definitelywould look very nice I think)
Copper is unusual. Brass is more common. I imagine you could except the current v3.4 uses a custom angle T fitting, and using brass adds unnecessary weight where the strength simply isn’t needed.
@@AndreiDPop exceptional advice 👌 thank you. Will definitely be purchasing a kit soon. Thank you for your efforts
Around 6:00 on this video, you describe spraying the port with brake parts cleaner. Where does this brake parts cleaner end up? For someone who hasn't removed one of these intake manifolds, it's a little hard to tell, but it certainly seems like it drains through the cylinder head into the crankcase and ends up in the engine oil. Can you confirm whether this is the case? Shouldn't an oil change, then, be performed immediately after installation of this kit?
It gets evaporated and consumed by the engine. It can’t drain back to the crankcase since that path goes back up through the valve cover before getting to the crankcase. Oil change isn’t necessary.
What kind of check valve is that in the kit. The part store only has one kind. And it looks like bobber for fishing. But I would like to know.
Custom made. I order them 3500 units at a time. They have my own spec plungers inside for PCV compatibility and extremely low crack pressure. You won’t find anything local.
You also won’t find the custom T fitting with the necessary angle to keep the check valve at a downward angle.
Also if you’re getting your own hose, you can’t use heater hose and most fuel hose will collapse under vacuum. Only gates 27008 works.
Are you trying to replace the valve or making your own kit?
Great video. Very helpful thanks
Great job, thanks for sharing.
Дай господь вам здоров'я!!!!
Hello! I have changed the oil yesterday an i taught to check also the purge valve(the orange nippel is present) and the oil separator valve from camshaft cover. With the engine idling i put my finger over the camshaft cover valve i didn't feel no suction then i tucked out the oil level rod and i noticed constant suction from engine. Then i spray whater with soap on the camshaft cover valve and i noticed that it makes some bubbles and that it sucks the water with soap. Is it normal? Should be any suction ? Is my camshaft cover valve close to death? I have no errors and no lights on to the dashboard. Please advice! Thank you in advance!
There shouldn’t be any suction on the valve cover vent. There might be a small leak if it sucks air through, or it might just be the diaphragm flexing like it should. What issue are you trying to resolve?
Vacuum on the crankcase is normal but it should be mild vacuum. Place your finger over the dipstick port to seal it to test that. Should not have strong vacuum.
@@AndreiDPop
I don't have problems no errors i just wanted to check if they are ok. My car (2017 Opel Mokka B1.4NET) has 62.000 mi never checked any of the vacuum diafragme and i want to prevent any problems.
Just received my fix kit 3.1 updated model and not sure how the final kit will look like t.b.h...will u put up an updated video? The pics available don't make sense to me yet at least
Check the install sheet that was in the kit. It explains where to find info on the updates. A new video is coming soon.
Would this have anything to do with a MAF sensor code? I plan on using the kit for preventative maintenance in the future. But if that’s not why I’m running lean I’m gonna fix the problem first
P0171? Yes it’s a related code. Rarely do you have to replace the actual MAF sensor on these cars.
I have a Dorman intake manifold that I cant see the check valve on because it is back inside the manifold. Will this kit work for that manifold? If so how would I see the check valve and how would I plug the hole?
The kit will work but you’ll need to pull the manifold to install it, or try to cake up the back with epoxy after cleaning it. I can get you a screw and washer to plug up the manifold if you want to go that route. Just put a note in the special instructions box and I’ll add those in for you.
About the kid in installed it. It seemed to fix all my problems in after resetting the codes they all stayed off for a couple months but recently the P0171 and the P0299 are back. Not sure if He could be a sign that I didn't get the plug glued in properly. I checked and it's still there.
Possible the valve cover has failed. Check for vacuum/boost leaks. Make sure the clamp on the throttle body is tight.
What if the check valve nipple is still in the intake manifold ? Will you till be able to put in the plugg?
You would have to break off the nipple with a flathead screwdriver in order to plug up that hole with the plug.
If it's still there, and you break it off, what about retrieving it? About to order one for my '18 Sonic?
Just a quick question. What do you do if the original check valve is still in the intake manifold?
If it’s still there and you want to install the kit as preventive maintenance, you can break that nipple off with a flathead screwdriver.
going to try this on a friends car that has the P0299 code before we jump and replace the turbo
this was great video by the way, ive never worked on a newer chevy like this before but youve made everything easy even going above and beyond showing that cut away
By the time i got to my 299 code, i had a cracked turbo housing, intake manifold, and valve cover.
Dealer parts totaled over grand by the time it was done.
Would this kit work on a 2016 Chevy Trax with a 1.4 L turbo?
Yes.
I’m assuming that this kit would work on a 2019 Buick Encore? Are there any further updates to the kit nd do you ship to Canada?
This is the oldest install video. The kit has been updated to the v3.4 video. You’ll find that updated in-car install video on my channel. If the engine looks the same, it will work.
Yes I do ship to Canada. Simply choose the Canada shipping option when you check out on cruzekits.com.
Ordered one for my son’s 2019 Buick Encore 1.4 ltr. Luv engine. His car only has 48,000 Kim’s on it ( just under 30,000 miles. He got a check engine light during a cold snap a few weeks ago. I took it to a friend’s shop and he scanned for codes. The check engine light went off again before the OBD scan. 2 weeks of slightly above freezing temps and no problems. Just this past Monday it was cold again ( -8 to -10 c or 17 to 14F ) check engine light is on again. I haven’t had a chance to look if that orange “ nipple “ is in the intake. If it’s still there can I still install this kit or does the “ nipple “ have to be missing? Will this kit resolve the 14 degree F check engine warning or is this another issue? Gonna install the kit anyways but need the temperature to warm up as I don’t have a garage. By the way, thanks for answering so quickly. I ordered the kit the spare check valves and the tool kit although I have everything except the brush for on the drill. The oil catch can said optional so I passed on that one. Hope that wasn’t a mistake.
On the purge valve would it be easier to use a vacuum line instead of using the heat gun?
The heat gun method was not as easy as shown in this video. My hose did not want to expand enough to get over the Y fitting and my hose was trying to melt on me
Yes and the kit already includes an extra section of fuel hose for exactly that reason, and it’s explained in the note sheet that came in the kit
Sir, the idea behind the kit is wonderful.... but since I'm very poor I had to piece it together myself I have everything except for the check valve where do you recommend I get one or where did you get that one I know it's special.. but again... the money issue. P0299 under boost no power ...im miserable
Send me an email using the form on cruzekits.com. I make these as affordable as possible, but I've seen a lot of people try to do it themselves and end up screwing up part of the kit. I can sell you the check valves (they're available for order now on cruzekits.com) but I want to make sure the rest of what you pieced together will work, because not all PCV hose will work, for example.
Looks like my kit included the "easy splice" option for the evap line, can you describe how to remove the nylon line from the factory evap fittings without damaging them?
Just cut a slit into it the long way and peel it off, use a heat gun to soften it, or use boiling water.
Any tips on removing the piece closest to the firewall? Won’t come out no matter what I do
Removing what piece? The evap purge valve?
Yes that piece.
do you cap the green and black line that run with the pvc to the turbo
No. That stays in place.
Can all the fitting b replaces with metal fitting????if so do u have any recommendations..I will be getting the v3 kit..just want to know ur opinion..
I don't have metal fittings but you could do that if you wanted to. You can change the kit as you see fit; it's just a set of DIY parts. If you want a better check valve, you're more than welcome to swap one in.
Hi Dre, the cruzekit V3 PCV fix that you came up with is amazing, But i have a question for you, After installing the V3 PCV kit in any chevrolet Cruze, do I still need to change the Valve cover that was previously sucking air?
Yes valve cover will still need to be replaced.
@@AndreiDPop Hey Buddy I just installed the v3.4 last night, I forgot not to start the car for 15hrs min. I had it running for 20 secs and noticed a really rough idle like an hour after I plugged the hole and everything assembled. Do you know what might it be for the rough idle?
@@somorethanthis a vacuum leak somewhere. Is the valve cover vent sucking in air? Did you lose the retaining ring inside the pcv pipe manifold terminal? Either way you’ll need to add some epoxy around the plug there to make sure that seals later, but that alone wouldn’t cause the rough idle.
@@AndreiDPop Thanks for the quick reply, I will have to check in a bit if the vent is sucking air. I did not lose the clip car was running fine b4 the install. Just to make sure the check valve arrow should be pointing towards the firewall on v3.4 ?
@@somorethanthis yes. Away from the T fitting and toward the Y fitting.
Hey just curious. I didn't have a heat gun or silicone spray. Figured I can heat it slowly with a torch while I push it on and ya that didn't work lol hose turned to shit quickly. Have to run to canadian tire tomorrow to buy a heat gun. If that fails and I'm not able to salvage the hose you think I can just use similar rubber hose like what's included eith the kit for the purge valve?
The kit comes with 4.25” of pcv hose and 4 extra clamps so you can use those instead of having to use a heat gun. Read the note sheet.
@@AndreiDPop ahh ok I'll have look. All i got with the kit was 4 pieces of hose the shorter piece I have goes into the check valve from the y correct? I should've gotten 2 of those small lengths? All good either way I can buy a small length of pvv hose feom else where if need be
All good I found some gas line pvc hose got er all hooked up looks awesome much better than before. See how she runs tomorrow once the epoxy cures. Thanks again👍
@@suspectlikun no, the shorter piece is what you use on the Y fitting instead of the nylon. You need to cut 2” off the longer piece for the check valve. This is explained in the note sheet and on the website.
@@AndreiDPop Yup I just read that on the website. I'll switch the location of the check valve. Thanks bud
Let me clarify. Dose the valve need to point towards the big T, or the smaller Y fitting? Thanks again.
Smaller Y
Can the check valve be removed easily if it’s still in place before installing this kit? This kit looks like a great repair for a common problem, just wondering if it can be used as preventative maintenance beforehand.
Yes you can break it off with a flathead screwdriver.
Thanks for the quick reply! I ordered the 3.4 kit and notification of shipment today. Looking forward the to installation.
I have P0171 and I can't find the nipple in my intake manifold.
I'm thinking this kit may help me before the part inside my valve cover fails (is not doing the vacuum thing you can cover your finger with)
Just for a little clarification, does this kit plug that hole where the nipple is supposed to be? It looks like that piece you put on the screw driver and slide down in there with epoxy just plugs the hole.
What was that nipple supposed to do before? Will plugging that not change anything?
Sorry I'm not mechanically inclined and I apologize now if you answered these questions in the video. I assure you I watched the hole thing but I couldn't turn the volume up much where I'm watching from
Yes the kit plugs the hole. That’s part of the design. The nipple was a retaining piece for a check valve flap on the other side. The kit reroutes that check valve externally.
@@AndreiDPop thank you very much! Also if you don't mind having a look at my most recent video.
There is supposed to be a bolt in the hole shown, it had broken and fallen out a long time ago but the suction is new to me. Hasn't done that till this week.
Any input on that? Is it normal to have suction there but it's normally plugged with bolt? Is it related to my PCV issues?
I'm purchasing a new valve cover soon that comes with the bolts so it will be replaced soon, just wondering if I need to 'fix' the vacuum effect that's going on. Or maybe it will fix when I buy the pcv kit
If the diaphragm on the valve cover is blown, do I have to replace the valve cover for the V3PVC Fix Kit to work?
Have your kit. Confused about check valve. Should arrow face right towards intake or left toward turbo?
Toward driver's side. Away from T fitting.
Hey buddy, I have to do front brakes this weekend and would like to do the kit at the same time. Do I have to let the epoxy cure for the full 24 hours? I don't do my mechanical work at home so I'd have to drive the car home afterwards. Hope you see this, thanks for the kit.
Cheers!
15 hours minimum for cure time. You can do the plug later a long as the port and port wall are CLEAN AND DRY.
@@AndreiDPop awesome, I'll probably just do it when I get home to be on the safe side. Thanks for your wicked fast reply!
I cannot seem to load the site to order this! I need this bad! my cars running like shit, I just replaced the valve cover and thought I should do the intake mani then i found this little gem of a video!!! help me!
Send me an email. Andrei@TitanSynthetics.com