Saved me a lot of time, thanks Andy. Well made and very informative and easy to follow for an old timer that's forgotten a few tricks. Keep up the videos.
Thank you for this great video. This video is better than others I have seen because you show the problems that you had along the way and how you fixed them. The others just glance over any issues they had. Thank you for that. It's been a few months now. Any issues? Would you buy the same parts again? I need to do the same thing to my '66. I'll be ordering parts in a day or two.
Thanks for the feedback! My goal is to make a helpful video, a video that I'd want to watch. :) No issues, everything works great. This is one of those things that I should have done earlier, but I'm glad it's done now.
Thanks for the good video. I am about to try checking and possibly replacing the ignition switch on my 66 F-100, easier to get to for me as it is low and left of the steering column. Same parts I think. You did have the speedometer cable detached when you loosened the instruments.
The ignition for your F100 is similar enough to the one I have in this video, that it will be a very similar swap. The tumbler (with the key part) is removed the same way with a paper clip and turning the key backwards, but I think the ignition unit itself is held on by the front cap. In this video you grab the ignition from behind, push and twist, but I think your F100 is held on with a thread cap that you have to remove from the front. You can use a flat head screw drive and tap at it to break it loose and spin. Also, the harness on the back should just pop off, no threaded stud that holds everything on. Good luck, you've got this! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Fast reply from you, Andy, thanks. My 66 F-100 has the same switch as your Mustang. I know what you are referring to with the screw on bezel, like what I had with my 53 F-100 before I traded up for the newer one almost 5 years ago. I was checking out videos like yours and diagrams before going out to check all. My truck either starts fine, with the starter spinning well, or I get nothing, not even a click. I have been checking the free things like fixing any corrosion and grounds especially. I did not know til recently that the starter solenoid needs to be grounded. Also, I wanted to become better acquainted with which wires go where. So, I didn't remove anything yet except battery terminals. I was not impressed with the yellow wire on the ignition switch pigtail. The previous owner has it connected to a heavier gauge red wire that goes in his replacement wiring setup. I am concerned that the alternator is not charging the battery as it should at 13+ volts. Next time I use the truck I will check with a voltmeter. Next, if what I did does not work, I may replace the ignition switch, then the starter solenoid. Any other ideas? My truck runs well (as long as it starts). It has an 87+ Mustang 302 HO, and AOD trans and Trutrac 9" rear. I will be fine tuning the preload for the pedestal rocker lifters. I just received shims in .010, ,020, .030 and .040 inches to replace some shims under the pedestals. Nine of sixteen could use a different shim.
The lack of the "click" when starting to start your truck is the solenoid not doing it's job, which makes me think your ignition switch is not playing nice. Your solenoid could be on its way out too, and that is a cheaper and easier fix than the ignition switch. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks again, Andy for good advice. Now that I have cleaned some connections and grounds, I will see if the "no click, no start" occurs again. Then I could see if it starts by jumping the starter solenoid. If that starts, it should be the ignition switch, I think. It is easier on the truck as it is not behind the instrument cluster, but below and left of the column.
I think you just inadvertently answered a question I had! I had a 68 mustang when I was a kid, and I like the key better. I was wondering if a 67/68 key cylinder would fit into the dash.... guess not, because that is definitely a 67 or 68 key!
@@AndyKruseChannel Most of the vids were playing as vertically and now this one is full screened horizontal. Example: ua-cam.com/video/wyH6QPlTLY4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=AndyKruse
@@panbuffman Now I understand. :) The video you linked is a UA-cam #Shorts style video, it will play correctly on mobile phones, but on a PC it plays in a funky aspect ratio. All of my #Shorts videos are labeled accordingly, and they're all short versions of the full length videos where I cover the whole upgrade/replacement on the car. You can also navigate them through my Playlists, they're all organized.
After the bezel is in the car, while trying to push the ignition switch into the car I can not get it to mate up with the bezel. The starter mates with the bezel outside the car, but never while trying in the car. This is after about 20 tries. I have the large pins and small pins matched up properly. However the two will not engage.
Hmmm, it's difficult to say without being there and seeing the issue. If it lines up correctly when assembling outside of the car, but not when trying to install it in the car, my guess is there's something wrong with the ignition itself and how it mates to the dash, or there's an issue with the installation process and you may need to keep trying. Sorry I'm not much help. :)
What size is the diameter of the hole on the dashboard for the ignition switch? I have a swamp buggy and it has another switch in there that is smaller.
Did you have any issue dimming the dash lights? LED's take so much less current I'm wondering if they don't dim until nearly off. Or don't dim the same as the radio light.
Did you have to install a new flasher unit to correct hyperflash? Also, what was the location install of your LED's (4 red, 4 green, 4 warm white)? Thanks
I did, but for the LED tail lights (upcoming video), but I did not for the LEDs in the dash. There didn't seem to be any issues with the dash LEDs and flashing/blinking problems. I did these LED dash bulbs several weeks before the LED tail lights. Not sure I'm understanding the second question? I did the turn signal lights (2 bulbs, green), the high beam light (1 bulb, red), and the dash lighting inside the gauge cluster (I think it was 4 bulbs, warm white).
Thanks Andy, that answered my question. Also, you had no ‘hot spots’ with the brightness of the LED cluster install? I had heard of that occurring at times as well.
@@graesson I try to get good angles, good lighting, and I try to explain the sticky stuff just in case someone is having difficulty seeing the whole project. Sometimes I get carried away and sometimes I miss stuff. I'm happy to hear there was some value in this video, it's great feedback!!
This video just saved me hours of frustration! Thanks for the help!
Awesome, I'm glad it helped!
Thanks, for that you saved my arse! Re indexing the key cylinder was the trick to completing this project. Great video!
Awesome, it's great to hear when people are able to get some nugget of info from my videos. :)
Saved me a lot of time, thanks Andy. Well made and very informative and easy to follow for an old timer that's forgotten a few tricks. Keep up the videos.
Glad it helped! :)
Thank you for this. I was having trouble until I saw your breakdown
Glad it helped! :)
Great video...I'll be doing this in a few months to my 65.
Thanks! Good luck, I hope everything works out. :)
Thank you for this great video. This video is better than others I have seen because you show the problems that you had along the way and how you fixed them. The others just glance over any issues they had. Thank you for that. It's been a few months now. Any issues? Would you buy the same parts again? I need to do the same thing to my '66. I'll be ordering parts in a day or two.
Thanks for the feedback! My goal is to make a helpful video, a video that I'd want to watch. :)
No issues, everything works great. This is one of those things that I should have done earlier, but I'm glad it's done now.
True! I tried watching the video from CJ but they sorta skip through things. 👍
Thanks for the good video. I am about to try checking and possibly replacing the ignition switch on my 66 F-100, easier to get to for me as it is low and left of the steering column. Same parts I think. You did have the speedometer cable detached when you loosened the instruments.
The ignition for your F100 is similar enough to the one I have in this video, that it will be a very similar swap. The tumbler (with the key part) is removed the same way with a paper clip and turning the key backwards, but I think the ignition unit itself is held on by the front cap. In this video you grab the ignition from behind, push and twist, but I think your F100 is held on with a thread cap that you have to remove from the front. You can use a flat head screw drive and tap at it to break it loose and spin. Also, the harness on the back should just pop off, no threaded stud that holds everything on. Good luck, you've got this! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Fast reply from you, Andy, thanks. My 66 F-100 has the same switch as your Mustang. I know what you are referring to with the screw on bezel, like what I had with my 53 F-100 before I traded up for the newer one almost 5 years ago. I was checking out videos like yours and diagrams before going out to check all. My truck either starts fine, with the starter spinning well, or I get nothing, not even a click. I have been checking the free things like fixing any corrosion and grounds especially. I did not know til recently that the starter solenoid needs to be grounded. Also, I wanted to become better acquainted with which wires go where. So, I didn't remove anything yet except battery terminals. I was not impressed with the yellow wire on the ignition switch pigtail. The previous owner has it connected to a heavier gauge red wire that goes in his replacement wiring setup. I am concerned that the alternator is not charging the battery as it should at 13+ volts. Next time I use the truck I will check with a voltmeter. Next, if what I did does not work, I may replace the ignition switch, then the starter solenoid. Any other ideas? My truck runs well (as long as it starts). It has an 87+ Mustang 302 HO, and AOD trans and Trutrac 9" rear. I will be fine tuning the preload for the pedestal rocker lifters. I just received shims in .010, ,020, .030 and .040 inches to replace some shims under the pedestals. Nine of sixteen could use a different shim.
The lack of the "click" when starting to start your truck is the solenoid not doing it's job, which makes me think your ignition switch is not playing nice. Your solenoid could be on its way out too, and that is a cheaper and easier fix than the ignition switch. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks again, Andy for good advice. Now that I have cleaned some connections and grounds, I will see if the "no click, no start" occurs again. Then I could see if it starts by jumping the starter solenoid. If that starts, it should be the ignition switch, I think. It is easier on the truck as it is not behind the instrument cluster, but below and left of the column.
Great video
Thanks am about to do mine including leds
Glad I could help! :)
Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
I think you just inadvertently answered a question I had! I had a 68 mustang when I was a kid, and I like the key better. I was wondering if a 67/68 key cylinder would fit into the dash.... guess not, because that is definitely a 67 or 68 key!
Cool, glad I was able to help. :)
Yes! Full screened!!
I think I'm missing something here?
@@AndyKruseChannel Most of the vids were playing as vertically and now this one is full screened horizontal.
Example: ua-cam.com/video/wyH6QPlTLY4/v-deo.html&ab_channel=AndyKruse
@@panbuffman Now I understand. :) The video you linked is a UA-cam #Shorts style video, it will play correctly on mobile phones, but on a PC it plays in a funky aspect ratio. All of my #Shorts videos are labeled accordingly, and they're all short versions of the full length videos where I cover the whole upgrade/replacement on the car. You can also navigate them through my Playlists, they're all organized.
@@AndyKruseChannel Ahhh okay. Makes sense! Thanks. Sorry for the confusion.
@@panbuffman No problem! Don't forget to comment on my latest Giveaway video for getting to 500 Subs!! You might win the Tool Set.
After the bezel is in the car, while trying to push the ignition switch into the car I can not get it to mate up with the bezel. The starter mates with the bezel outside the car, but never while trying in the car. This is after about 20 tries. I have the large pins and small pins matched up properly. However the two will not engage.
Hmmm, it's difficult to say without being there and seeing the issue. If it lines up correctly when assembling outside of the car, but not when trying to install it in the car, my guess is there's something wrong with the ignition itself and how it mates to the dash, or there's an issue with the installation process and you may need to keep trying. Sorry I'm not much help. :)
What size is the diameter of the hole on the dashboard for the ignition switch? I have a swamp buggy and it has another switch in there that is smaller.
Sorry Boss, I don't have that info. :)
I need a answer quick if possible what is the nut size on that new ignition part
Sorry Boss, I don’t recall that size.
Did you have any issue dimming the dash lights? LED's take so much less current I'm wondering if they don't dim until nearly off. Or don't dim the same as the radio light.
Nope, no issues. :)
I wonder, how would u get the old lock cylinder out if you don't have a key? This is my problem.
Cutting torch or a sawzall?
I have that "non standard" too and when I switched to this one it doesn't start. Any ide? (Old still works and starts.) Thank you!
I wonder if maybe the wiring is backwards?
Did you have to install a new flasher unit to correct hyperflash? Also, what was the location install of your LED's (4 red, 4 green, 4 warm white)? Thanks
I did, but for the LED tail lights (upcoming video), but I did not for the LEDs in the dash. There didn't seem to be any issues with the dash LEDs and flashing/blinking problems. I did these LED dash bulbs several weeks before the LED tail lights.
Not sure I'm understanding the second question? I did the turn signal lights (2 bulbs, green), the high beam light (1 bulb, red), and the dash lighting inside the gauge cluster (I think it was 4 bulbs, warm white).
Thanks Andy, that answered my question. Also, you had no ‘hot spots’ with the brightness of the LED cluster install? I had heard of that occurring at times as well.
Also thanks for showing the cylinder close up ‘ridge positioning’ for reinstallation. That point/picture was missing in all other switch vids
@@graesson No problem, glad I was able to help! :) No hot spots, these LEDs are low wattage, so they don't generate much heat.
@@graesson I try to get good angles, good lighting, and I try to explain the sticky stuff just in case someone is having difficulty seeing the whole project. Sometimes I get carried away and sometimes I miss stuff. I'm happy to hear there was some value in this video, it's great feedback!!
Back when you needed a key to actually start a car🤣😅
I bet we could set something up........ :)
I was about to crash out
Hmmm... :)