I have the exact model you are working on and I found if you unscrew the bracket that holds the filter until the bolt is almost ready to fall out you will be able to get the filter out without having to unscrew your first metal tubes in the front of the filter. Once you have everything disconnected and the bracket loosened lift the filter up as far as you can and then tilt it back and to the right. About the one o'clock position. For me it took just a little effort and it popped right out. Thank you for the videos. As almost no one wants to work on these vans, I find your video priceless.
About 50k some change at 20k but what you really need is to always have one or 2 on hand just in case you get water in the system or it goes bad due to contaminations
Great video, thanks for posting. Are you opposed to using other OEM quality filters, such as Hengst or Mahle? They’re a bit cheaper than MB, but wonder if they’re as good, better, or worse.
Good information, sir. Thank you. If by chance there are any automotive engineers reading this note, be aware that Mercedes shows the world how NOT to mount a fuel filter.
Have you ever done a diesel purge on your sprinter. Can you do a video on a T1N purge nobody has a video 🙏thank you I was hopefully to find doing a injection flush might fix my number 5 injection that is clogged and throwing a code ..
Dimitriy Perchik My van is 2005 freightliner sprinter with code cylinder 5 contribution/balance and my reader is I have a Ancel 310 reader do I need to get a sprinter reader for more advanced features..thankful to you getting back with information
Hey, thanks for uploading this video, helped me out a lot. I was wondering if you ever figured out what was causing your van to stall? We're having a similar problem, getting a few high pressure fuel codes. We are starting by changing the filter out and hoping it will fix the problem, as the van randomly stalls out when coming to a stop or while idling.
I see! Were you noticing random stalls though? we occasionally get glow plug codes as well. I just changed them recently so I’m starting to think it could be harness related. Did you notice any similar problems?
High pressure fuel codes or low pressure fuel codes? If the fuel pressure is too high, your fuel pressure regulator is bad, changing fuel filter will not help. As far as glow plugs, if you changed them and you still get codes, it is more likely your glow plug controller.
Good job,thinking to replace the fuel filter for my 2006 sprinter,it’s throwing code p0088 high fuel pressure,not sure if this will fix the issue or its something else.if you have any ideas let me know pls.
Yes the idea is this, High preside fuel, so something I never seen but like everything Sprinter related I believe it has to do with fuel injectors letting in more diesel then it needs, or a fuel leak somewhere, but it can be a number of things including Fuel rail and high pressure fuel pump, it’s mechanical and it might be off somehow, or leaking, high pressure fuel pumps tend to leak in cold weather climates, but my advice google this code and read what it can be about, I would do it for you but kinda busy right now, but if Dimitriy will see your comment he might look it up and can tell you this, he is a regular viewer that is mechanically inclined defiantly a big help, plus I have many viewers that like to help other sprinter owners like a sprinter forum but on UA-cam hope this helps
High fuel pressure is never caused by a clogged fuel filter. Low fuel pressure is caused by a bad fuel filter. Hight fuel pressure is primarily caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator. Here it is below... www.autohausaz.com/pn/14329224-BS-6480700046?Mercedes&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh8q4pJjS4AIVhonICh2JcghKEAQYAiABEgLoN_D_BwE Or you can have a bad fuel pressure sensor that is not reading right the pressure inside the fuel rail. More likely the cause of high fuel pressure is the regulator you see above though...
Dimitriy Perchik - I have a 2013 Sprinter 2500, 3.0 diesel. I am getting a P1188 - $07E8 error code (autel md802 reader). Any suggestion where I should look first? Some said to replace the fuel filter but I just saw your comment and thought I’d ask. It’s been -35°C for a month. No error codes prior to the cold snap. I don’t notice any difference in performance. Cheers. 😊
@@twowheeledsmurph Does your Autel scanner give you a description of the code? Pressure too high or too low? I'm not able to check and see what the code P1188 means at this time. I can look tomorrow on my laptop to see what the code means in Xentry diagnostic system. Usually, high pressure is caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator or a clogged return fuel line that goes from injectors back to the fuel filter. Low pressure is a bit more difficult to figure out. It can be a weak electric fuel pump that is located in the fuel tank. It can be a clogged fuel filter, it can be the high pressure/injector pump. It can be a bad fuel injector that is leaking most of the fuel back in the return fuel line creating low fuel pressure in the rail, but with this scenario with a leaking fuel injector, you would have a hard time starting the van. Also it can be a bad fuel pressure regulator that is stuck open and not allowing the pressure to build up in the rail. If the code 1188 stands for low pressure, changing the fuel filter would be the first thing to do. Can you tell me the description of the code that Autel gives you?
@@Dima-jq3mj -Firstly - Thank you SO much for the quick response and the wealth of information! I really appreciate it. There's no further information on the code from the scanner. It just says 'Please refer to vehicle service manual'. Today another code popped up.... P2084 - 'Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/ Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2'. I'm not sure if they are related or not. I did smell diesel exhaust inside the cabin at one point but it didn't last long. The temperature dropped rather quickly a few weeks ago and I wasn't able to plug the block heater in. The van wouldn't start at all and I had to eventually boost it to get it going. Voltage while running is 14.10 and with engine off it's at 12.2-12.4. I'm thinking a new battery wouldn't be a bad idea. I should probably replace the fuel filter as well - just for peace of mind. The van belonged to a friend of mine that used it for his flooring business. I bought it 7 months ago and it's been running perfectly other than needing a new EGR valve. Once I replaced that I had no issues with hesitation/surging while driving. The bitterly cold weather hit and these error codes started popping up. I've worked on all my vehicles and motorcycles so I have no problem getting dirty and diagnosing/fixing as much as I can without having the dealer look at it. This is why I genuinely appreciate your help. Cheers
I am in Lancaster SC sure you can come and I will work on yours, this year I worked on nearly 20 of my viewers vans, so looking forward to more, right now I got 2010 in and it’s allot of work to change oil cooler seals I need to pull the engine
@@ZimaletaMotors I'm in Greenville, SC. This is great. Once I get her drivable. I'll look you up. She's going to be my live in so I want to make sure she can safely carry a young sizable senior such as me. 😊
After replacing my fuel filter on my W211 I got engine light and the car with a very bad performance. A Mercedes dealer mechanic told me that it is necessary change the water level sensor when changing the fuel filter. Had you have any issue with your car after this service?
Nivaldo Covolan - Without knowing the "details" of your case. I would wild guess the sensor was somehow damaged during the operation. Giving place to that "theory" of need to change. ;-)
Hey, thanks for this, but I just now changed my fuel filter, I broke that hokey little plastic piece in the center of the filter, prying it out with a screw driver. Do you have that new part? You know, the one where you slide the white horse shoe piece to hold it in. Or, can you tell me the name of it if you don't have it. Thanks
Thanks my friend, I am here for you guys and I really enjoy talking to you and helping you, you know I created a website and an online store, but for now I don’t sell any new sprinter parts there or used, but I created a page for you guys called Sprinter parts, that page is all about parts on Amazon, I made it easier to find parts on Amazon and I searched for all the right parts then used HTML to imbed them on my website, it took me all day to do, but now you guys can go there and compare prices for parts on Amazon, check it out and maybe that part you need is there for you
Would be sweet if you listed the tools used (sizes etc.) in the description. Heck, I don't know if you can have affiliate links to them, but if you did, I'd totally use them.
Thanks so much, yes I have affiliate links but not on the videos, I will use your advice and add them, because it’s about saving you time and headache looking for right tools
I need cruise control and 16 inch rims fr my short wheelbase sprinter,if i take the cruise stalk and ecu out of a 2004 will it be just a swap of the ecu to get it working rather than a flash at the dealership? i was gonna buy a hitch,cruise and rims separately but was checkin out craigslist and i can buy a 2004 long wheelbase sprinter 340k towed to my house fr $800,no title,sposed to have a broke glowplug in the head,i need all kindsa spare parts/modules etc fr backups on the road and troubleshooting and thought just buyin the whole van would be the way to go
Yes you are right it's nice to have a spare parts sprinter, but I don't believe this will work but your close, also take wiring harness from that van. Then comport, the immobilizer then key and ignition tumbler and then it should work
Can you explain "comport" my short wheelbase came with four sets of keys so maybe ill just bite the bullet and spend a hun at the dealer to just get my oridg ecu flashed but would still like to know whats involved other than just installing the stalk and ecu from the 2004,so its the key tumbler,ecu and wiring harness ya have to replace,i researched more after i first texted you and read that the ecu has to be programed fr a spacific fuel injector for that yr,i was driving ford focus wagons fr 10 yrs fr a courier company in at louis makin $50k -$60 a yr,had two of em so i always had one running,worked on em myself with junkyard/autozone lifetime parts and had spares of EVERYTHING in the car i wasnt driving,bought a,2006 118 fr ocasional van work but our company just folded so i thought id start new with the van somewhere else fr hopefully the same pay,started yrs ago with rabbit deisels and then a 85 escort wagon with a non turbo 2 litre mitsubishi engine (i think) thought id get back in a deisel and stink up the place
I can’t really understand your question but I will try my best to explain, if your talking about 2004-2006 Sprinter you can change parts around no problem, but you can’t install parts from 2002-2003 it’s just different, so I am not sure what your trying to do, but let me just tell you this, if your trying to swap out a computer from 2004 to 2005-06 then your ok as long as you replace the immobilizer and ignition tumbler from same 2004 van, then it’s simple plug and play, but if you just install a computer it won’t work because you need to program it, I actually have videos on this
my best yr was three yrs ago, $72k,two thirds local,one third outta town work,deadheading it back home,im an independent,had to pay fr fuel but my car avgs 30mpg and my insurance was $560 yr,didnt pay nuttin fr the cars and changed my erl every 20k with rural king synthetic ($12-$15/five quarts) never had a focus engine fail,tranny would have to be replaces after 300k,couldnt get past 500k cause people kept CLOBBERIN me,thats how i got the 118,$2k frm a rear end fenderbender and used that and another grand to buy my sprinter from a microbrewery, 195k and the tranny was replaced at 110k,shes barely broke in
Hello, My Sprinter recently developed a odd problem. I was on a highway trip. I filled up along the highway and a short while after filling up I pulled off the highway to check on my daughter. As I slowed down and turned onto the side road my van stalled. I have never had that happen before. I put it into park and started the engine and it started fine. I pulled back onto the highway and drove without any problems. When I exited at the town I was going to and started slowing down it stalled again when I got down to about 20-30 kms and around 1000 rpm's. I was ready to enter traffic so was glad I was in a place people could get around me. When I was driving in town it seems ok...I can slow down for a turn and it will not stall. Seems to be when I am slowing down from highway speed. I have tried slowing down slowly and it hasn't stalled. I also have started gearing down and keeping my rpm's higher to keep it from stalling. I have not change my fuel filter for quite awhile. I was considering I may have gotten a bad batch of fuel and the filter is not allowing the fuel through like it used to. Do you have any ideas of why my van might suddenly start stalling at low speed? Chris
+Chris Fullerton yes I have many ideas what it could be, I had many stall situations for different reasons, Your Right about one thing, if you don't change fuel filter in a while That can stall your van easy, so change fuel filter, if it's still doing it, check Fuse panel, for this you need to disconnect the battery and the remove fuse panel under steering wheel, I have many videos how to do it, but here's what happens, sometimes the Electronic ignition switch is barely connected and you need to push it in and you can hear it snap into place, this can stall your van driving slow in the parking lot or hit a small bump it will stall, and one more problem I had it's with wiring harness on the Engine, it's big and probably expensive, on that one, you can see it on right side of the Engine and There is a rubber cushion to keep it from rubbing against the Engine and sometimes it is lose and falls down or at the top of the wire and it does no help, I have a video on this, my van was stalling sometimes in same conditions you described and it was this wiring harness, here's what I did I removed some lower zip ties from it to give it some slack and my problem desapeard so this might be your problem to, one way to test it is just keep van running pup the hood and lightly pull or press on the wiring harness and if your van stalls out you find your answer to your problem, I hope this helps you out, let me know if you fix it
I have a 2003 model, and unfortunately my fuel return hose is clear hard plastic (yours is the aluminium pipe). Its virtually impossible to remove without breaking it from what the mechanic told Me. Hopefully I can heat it with a hair drier or something.
Hey, Sergei! I was wondering if you can help me with my 2014 GLK 250 bluetec. It currently has 85000 miles on the odometer and today the EGR vacuum unit died on me. The car went in the limp mode (won’t rev past 2500 rpm). It also makes hat hissing sound almost every time I hit the gas. Im pretty sure you dealt with that stuff before, since Sprinters vans share that part with GLK’s, ML’s etc... Do you know if it’s a pain in the ass to get the unit off? It happened tonight, so I’m not gonna be working on it till tomorrow. I would appreciate your insight on the issue. Thanks
Thanks for the question Denis, unfortunately I never dealt with this problem before, but most problems I deal with is the First time I see it to and I figure it out, I really like the GLK, I never seen a Diesel model, I am assuming it’s a 4 cylinder version, it’s probably very fuel efficient, I don’t believe the vacuum pump is hard to get off if it’s similar to 06 model, EGR can be a pain, but this being said, I bought a 2012 Sprinter and it had 3.0 diesel, I will learn everything about it and share everything with you guys. I also will improve my channel and give you guys more value, and will be the number one place for Sprinter Help, I just need to finish my home so I can focus on Sprinters, I want to record shorter videos, focusing on a single topic to make it easier to navigate in the playlist
Yeah, it’s a 4-cylinder engine (om 651) and you are right about MPG (29-34 highway, depending on you speed). I’ve already figure everything out, but thanks for getting back to me anyways. Good luck with your channel, Serg!
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING what can be happen if you put any can a antifreeze, I read need a specific antifreeze. Thank very much for all you videos I learn a lot
+mario millan they sell All makes and models of Antifreeze, so if you add that you will be fine, but to the Radiator not Fuel ⛽️ just making sure it's a Radiator question:), I use orange color antifreeze, I was using all makes and models for a long time it's green, but I decided to test GM Antifreeze
One small correction. You don´t need to add diesel to the fuel filter. These Mercedes, self prime and bleed. So no fancy things are needed during the filter change. Replace the filter, cycle the key ON and OFF a couple of times. To allow the fuel pump to prime the filter and you´re ready to go. ;-) Cheers
Couldn't finish the video......Ads are way too numerous and painful. Not willing to cough up the extra bucks for ad free service as it is too expensive for the times I use it. Welcome to 21st century big business. Everyone wants a piece of the pie!
Hey Sergei, i thought you might be interested in this topic. I know you want to do an engine swap on your sprinter. How about swapping in a europen engine. Not sure if they get much better milage than 25mpg. Watch this video about "why european diesel cars have better MPG than American market ones". Anyways love your content. ua-cam.com/video/NsZWOjk9hzQ/v-deo.html
As you can tell, what we have here is an honest great mechanic that doesn't BS you! Thank you for all your wonderful videos!
Your so welcome, my goal is to simplify the work if possible but Mercedes keeps changing designs from year to year so it can be a challenge
I have the exact model you are working on and I found if you unscrew the bracket that holds the filter until the bolt is almost ready to fall out you will be able to get the filter out without having to unscrew your first metal tubes in the front of the filter. Once you have everything disconnected and the bracket loosened lift the filter up as far as you can and then tilt it back and to the right. About the one o'clock position. For me it took just a little effort and it popped right out. Thank you for the videos. As almost no one wants to work on these vans, I find your video priceless.
So neat to go back and rewatch these videos that originally brought me to this channel in the first place.
Hehe awesome 👏 thanks
i did it ! thanks to you i did it all myself an saved $$
That’s great, glad you did it, I have many money saving videos
Thank you for your video! How many miles need change fuil filter? Thank you sir!
About 50k some change at 20k but what you really need is to always have one or 2 on hand just in case you get water in the system or it goes bad due to contaminations
Thank you so much for this video man! Super, super helpful. Keep 'em comin!
Thanks so much Ryan
This was so helpful! Thank you for posting!
Your so welcome, let me know what else I can post to make your Sprinter life a joy
i was not clear on after replacing fuel filter how you bleed the fuel lines? i assume by turning the key on and off few times before starting
Great video, thanks for posting. Are you opposed to using other OEM quality filters, such as Hengst or Mahle? They’re a bit cheaper than MB, but wonder if they’re as good, better, or worse.
Actually I like Hengst I think there great but never tried Mahle, I think Original Mercedes or this brands will work best
Good information, sir. Thank you. If by chance there are any automotive engineers reading this note, be aware that Mercedes shows the world how NOT to mount a fuel filter.
What’s the correct way?
@@ZimaletaMotors The oil filter is a good design. They should have made the fuel filter as easy to change as the oil filter.
@@deezynar they made it such a pain for no reason. why not up and easy to do like 90% of spin on or cartradge fuel filters.
Yep
Is it better to buy the fuel filter with the black tube already attached? Where can I find that
Hello Sergei I was wondering how often do you change your filter..
80k it’s way after the recommended
Thank you for a quick response I have 215k should I change this every 10k or is that a overkill 2006 T1N sprinter
That’s over kill, if you change it every 40k that means your doing good to take care of your Sprinter
hey i broke my sensor what is it called and where do i buy one for my 08 freightliner 2500
👍 what state are you located in? Thanks 🙏
Have you ever done a diesel purge on your sprinter. Can you do a video on a T1N purge nobody has a video 🙏thank you I was hopefully to find doing a injection flush might fix my number 5 injection that is clogged and throwing a code ..
Ok
How do you know that your injector #5 is clogged? What test did you perform to come to that conclusion?... And what is the code you are getting?
Dimitriy Perchik
Hello the code I have gotten PO275 cylinder 5
@@delmytruelement3569
Is it a Mercedes Sprinter?... Or some other Mercedes?... And what is the type of diagnostic scanner you used to read the codes?
Dimitriy Perchik My van is 2005 freightliner sprinter with code cylinder 5 contribution/balance and my reader is I have a Ancel 310 reader do I need to get a sprinter reader for more advanced features..thankful to you getting back with information
Hey, thanks for uploading this video, helped me out a lot. I was wondering if you ever figured out what was causing your van to stall? We're having a similar problem, getting a few high pressure fuel codes. We are starting by changing the filter out and hoping it will fix the problem, as the van randomly stalls out when coming to a stop or while idling.
Yes I figured it out, it was a wiring harness
I see! Were you noticing random stalls though? we occasionally get glow plug codes as well. I just changed them recently so I’m starting to think it could be harness related. Did you notice any similar problems?
Yep same problems
High pressure fuel codes or low pressure fuel codes? If the fuel pressure is too high, your fuel pressure regulator is bad, changing fuel filter will not help.
As far as glow plugs, if you changed them and you still get codes, it is more likely your glow plug controller.
👏
Good job,thinking to replace the fuel filter for my 2006 sprinter,it’s throwing code p0088 high fuel pressure,not sure if this will fix the issue or its something else.if you have any ideas let me know pls.
Yes the idea is this, High preside fuel, so something I never seen but like everything Sprinter related I believe it has to do with fuel injectors letting in more diesel then it needs, or a fuel leak somewhere, but it can be a number of things including Fuel rail and high pressure fuel pump, it’s mechanical and it might be off somehow, or leaking, high pressure fuel pumps tend to leak in cold weather climates, but my advice google this code and read what it can be about, I would do it for you but kinda busy right now, but if Dimitriy will see your comment he might look it up and can tell you this, he is a regular viewer that is mechanically inclined defiantly a big help, plus I have many viewers that like to help other sprinter owners like a sprinter forum but on UA-cam hope this helps
High fuel pressure is never caused by a clogged fuel filter. Low fuel pressure is caused by a bad fuel filter.
Hight fuel pressure is primarily caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator. Here it is below...
www.autohausaz.com/pn/14329224-BS-6480700046?Mercedes&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh8q4pJjS4AIVhonICh2JcghKEAQYAiABEgLoN_D_BwE
Or you can have a bad fuel pressure sensor that is not reading right the pressure inside the fuel rail. More likely the cause of high fuel pressure is the regulator you see above though...
Dimitriy Perchik - I have a 2013 Sprinter 2500, 3.0 diesel. I am getting a P1188 - $07E8 error code (autel md802 reader). Any suggestion where I should look first? Some said to replace the fuel filter but I just saw your comment and thought I’d ask. It’s been -35°C for a month. No error codes prior to the cold snap. I don’t notice any difference in performance.
Cheers. 😊
@@twowheeledsmurph
Does your Autel scanner give you a description of the code? Pressure too high or too low?
I'm not able to check and see what the code P1188 means at this time. I can look tomorrow on my laptop to see what the code means in Xentry diagnostic system.
Usually, high pressure is caused by a bad fuel pressure regulator or a clogged return fuel line that goes from injectors back to the fuel filter.
Low pressure is a bit more difficult to figure out. It can be a weak electric fuel pump that is located in the fuel tank. It can be a clogged fuel filter, it can be the high pressure/injector pump. It can be a bad fuel injector that is leaking most of the fuel back in the return fuel line creating low fuel pressure in the rail, but with this scenario with a leaking fuel injector, you would have a hard time starting the van. Also it can be a bad fuel pressure regulator that is stuck open and not allowing the pressure to build up in the rail.
If the code 1188 stands for low pressure, changing the fuel filter would be the first thing to do.
Can you tell me the description of the code that Autel gives you?
@@Dima-jq3mj -Firstly - Thank you SO much for the quick response and the wealth of information! I really appreciate it.
There's no further information on the code from the scanner. It just says 'Please refer to vehicle service manual'.
Today another code popped up.... P2084 - 'Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/ Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2'.
I'm not sure if they are related or not. I did smell diesel exhaust inside the cabin at one point but it didn't last long.
The temperature dropped rather quickly a few weeks ago and I wasn't able to plug the block heater in. The van wouldn't start at all and I had to eventually boost it to get it going. Voltage while running is 14.10 and with engine off it's at 12.2-12.4. I'm thinking a new battery wouldn't be a bad idea.
I should probably replace the fuel filter as well - just for peace of mind. The van belonged to a friend of mine that used it for his flooring business. I bought it 7 months ago and it's been running perfectly other than needing a new EGR valve. Once I replaced that I had no issues with hesitation/surging while driving. The bitterly cold weather hit and these error codes started popping up. I've worked on all my vehicles and motorcycles so I have no problem getting dirty and diagnosing/fixing as much as I can without having the dealer look at it. This is why I genuinely appreciate your help.
Cheers
Wonderful video. Where are you located so I can travel to you and let you work on mine! Seriously!
I am in Lancaster SC sure you can come and I will work on yours, this year I worked on nearly 20 of my viewers vans, so looking forward to more, right now I got 2010 in and it’s allot of work to change oil cooler seals I need to pull the engine
@@ZimaletaMotors I'm in Greenville, SC. This is great. Once I get her drivable. I'll look you up. She's going to be my live in so I want to make sure she can safely carry a young sizable senior such as me. 😊
Great 👍
After replacing my fuel filter on my W211 I got engine light and the car with a very bad performance.
A Mercedes dealer mechanic told me that it is necessary change the water level sensor when changing the fuel filter.
Had you have any issue with your car after this service?
Is it diesel powered? If it is, what engine?
I never replaced that water level sensor and I don’t have any problems
Nivaldo Covolan - Without knowing the "details" of your case.
I would wild guess the sensor was somehow damaged during the operation. Giving place to that "theory" of need to change. ;-)
Maybe
Hey, thanks for this, but I just now changed my fuel filter, I broke that hokey little plastic piece in the center of the filter, prying it out with a screw driver. Do you have that new part? You know, the one where you slide the white horse shoe piece to hold it in. Or, can you tell me the name of it if you don't have it. Thanks
Lol I broke mine to do I used one from a parts sprinter, does parts get dry and it’s better to buy that new
I would just go to Mercedes and tell them and make sure to give them the vin, they will know what part
That makes me feel better. I love my Sprinter, but some of the parts are just chinsy! Keep up the good work.
Oh, BTW, I used a turkey baster (one with the rubber bulb) to fill the filter after it was in it's carriage. It worked good.
Thanks my friend, I am here for you guys and I really enjoy talking to you and helping you, you know I created a website and an online store, but for now I don’t sell any new sprinter parts there or used, but I created a page for you guys called Sprinter parts, that page is all about parts on Amazon, I made it easier to find parts on Amazon and I searched for all the right parts then used HTML to imbed them on my website, it took me all day to do, but now you guys can go there and compare prices for parts on Amazon, check it out and maybe that part you need is there for you
Would be sweet if you listed the tools used (sizes etc.) in the description. Heck, I don't know if you can have affiliate links to them, but if you did, I'd totally use them.
Thanks so much, yes I have affiliate links but not on the videos, I will use your advice and add them, because it’s about saving you time and headache looking for right tools
@@ZimaletaMotors I can't find the links for the tools you used. I'll keep searching. Glad your affiliated. Every little bit helps.
What tools are you looking for? I don’t have affiliate links in all videos but most have them now
I need cruise control and 16 inch rims fr my short wheelbase sprinter,if i take the cruise stalk and ecu out of a 2004 will it be just a swap of the ecu to get it working rather than a flash at the dealership? i was gonna buy a hitch,cruise and rims separately but was checkin out craigslist and i can buy a 2004 long wheelbase sprinter 340k towed to my house fr $800,no title,sposed to have a broke glowplug in the head,i need all kindsa spare parts/modules etc fr backups on the road and troubleshooting and thought just buyin the whole van would be the way to go
Yes you are right it's nice to have a spare parts sprinter, but I don't believe this will work but your close, also take wiring harness from that van. Then comport, the immobilizer then key and ignition tumbler and then it should work
Can you explain "comport" my short wheelbase came with four sets of keys so maybe ill just bite the bullet and spend a hun at the dealer to just get my oridg ecu flashed but would still like to know whats involved other than just installing the stalk and ecu from the 2004,so its the key tumbler,ecu and wiring harness ya have to replace,i researched more after i first texted you and read that the ecu has to be programed fr a spacific fuel injector for that yr,i was driving ford focus wagons fr 10 yrs fr a courier company in at louis makin $50k -$60 a yr,had two of em so i always had one running,worked on em myself with junkyard/autozone lifetime parts and had spares of EVERYTHING in the car i wasnt driving,bought a,2006 118 fr ocasional van work but our company just folded so i thought id start new with the van somewhere else fr hopefully the same pay,started yrs ago with rabbit deisels and then a 85 escort wagon with a non turbo 2 litre mitsubishi engine (i think) thought id get back in a deisel and stink up the place
I can’t really understand your question but I will try my best to explain, if your talking about 2004-2006 Sprinter you can change parts around no problem, but you can’t install parts from 2002-2003 it’s just different, so I am not sure what your trying to do, but let me just tell you this, if your trying to swap out a computer from 2004 to 2005-06 then your ok as long as you replace the immobilizer and ignition tumbler from same 2004 van, then it’s simple plug and play, but if you just install a computer it won’t work because you need to program it, I actually have videos on this
my best yr was three yrs ago, $72k,two thirds local,one third outta town work,deadheading it back home,im an independent,had to pay fr fuel but my car avgs 30mpg and my insurance was $560 yr,didnt pay nuttin fr the cars and changed my erl every 20k with rural king synthetic ($12-$15/five quarts) never had a focus engine fail,tranny would have to be replaces after 300k,couldnt get past 500k cause people kept CLOBBERIN me,thats how i got the 118,$2k frm a rear end fenderbender and used that and another grand to buy my sprinter from a microbrewery, 195k and the tranny was replaced at 110k,shes barely broke in
i pulled the "wrap" off her on a warm sunny day and the paint underneath looks brand new,like its been in a time capsule
Hello, My Sprinter recently developed a odd problem. I was on a highway trip. I filled up along the highway and a short while after filling up I pulled off the highway to check on my daughter. As I slowed down and turned onto the side road my van stalled. I have never had that happen before. I put it into park and started the engine and it started fine. I pulled back onto the highway and drove without any problems. When I exited at the town I was going to and started slowing down it stalled again when I got down to about 20-30 kms and around 1000 rpm's. I was ready to enter traffic so was glad I was in a place people could get around me. When I was driving in town it seems ok...I can slow down for a turn and it will not stall. Seems to be when I am slowing down from highway speed. I have tried slowing down slowly and it hasn't stalled. I also have started gearing down and keeping my rpm's higher to keep it from stalling. I have not change my fuel filter for quite awhile. I was considering I may have gotten a bad batch of fuel and the filter is not allowing the fuel through like it used to. Do you have any ideas of why my van might suddenly start stalling at low speed? Chris
+Chris Fullerton yes I have many ideas what it could be, I had many stall situations for different reasons, Your Right about one thing, if you don't change fuel filter in a while That can stall your van easy, so change fuel filter, if it's still doing it, check Fuse panel, for this you need to disconnect the battery and the remove fuse panel under steering wheel, I have many videos how to do it, but here's what happens, sometimes the Electronic ignition switch is barely connected and you need to push it in and you can hear it snap into place, this can stall your van driving slow in the parking lot or hit a small bump it will stall, and one more problem I had it's with wiring harness on the Engine, it's big and probably expensive, on that one, you can see it on right side of the Engine and There is a rubber cushion to keep it from rubbing against the Engine and sometimes it is lose and falls down or at the top of the wire and it does no help, I have a video on this, my van was stalling sometimes in same conditions you described and it was this wiring harness, here's what I did I removed some lower zip ties from it to give it some slack and my problem desapeard so this might be your problem to, one way to test it is just keep van running pup the hood and lightly pull or press on the wiring harness and if your van stalls out you find your answer to your problem, I hope this helps you out, let me know if you fix it
I have a 2003 model, and unfortunately my fuel return hose is clear hard plastic (yours is the aluminium pipe). Its virtually impossible to remove without breaking it from what the mechanic told Me. Hopefully I can heat it with a hair drier or something.
I hope so
Hey, Sergei! I was wondering if you can help me with my 2014 GLK 250 bluetec. It currently has 85000 miles on the odometer and today the EGR vacuum unit died on me. The car went in the limp mode (won’t rev past 2500 rpm). It also makes hat hissing sound almost every time I hit the gas. Im pretty sure you dealt with that stuff before, since Sprinters vans share that part with GLK’s, ML’s etc... Do you know if it’s a pain in the ass to get the unit off? It happened tonight, so I’m not gonna be working on it till tomorrow. I would appreciate your insight on the issue. Thanks
Thanks for the question Denis, unfortunately I never dealt with this problem before, but most problems I deal with is the First time I see it to and I figure it out, I really like the GLK, I never seen a Diesel model, I am assuming it’s a 4 cylinder version, it’s probably very fuel efficient, I don’t believe the vacuum pump is hard to get off if it’s similar to 06 model, EGR can be a pain, but this being said, I bought a 2012 Sprinter and it had 3.0 diesel, I will learn everything about it and share everything with you guys. I also will improve my channel and give you guys more value, and will be the number one place for Sprinter Help, I just need to finish my home so I can focus on Sprinters, I want to record shorter videos, focusing on a single topic to make it easier to navigate in the playlist
Yeah, it’s a 4-cylinder engine (om 651) and you are right about MPG (29-34 highway, depending on you speed). I’ve already figure everything out, but thanks for getting back to me anyways. Good luck with your channel, Serg!
Thanks Denis, glad you figured it out
This may have water on it previous filter
I doing right now, what happen if it's a air in the diesel line?
+mario millan nothing happens this is Normal it will still start, just pour diesel into the fuel filter
ZIMALETA HOW TO SHOW & UNBOXING what can be happen if you put any can a antifreeze, I read need a specific antifreeze. Thank very much for all you videos I learn a lot
+mario millan they sell All makes and models of Antifreeze, so if you add that you will be fine, but to the Radiator not Fuel ⛽️ just making sure it's a Radiator question:), I use orange color antifreeze, I was using all makes and models for a long time it's green, but I decided to test GM Antifreeze
One small correction. You don´t need to add diesel to the fuel filter. These Mercedes, self prime and bleed. So no fancy things are needed during the filter change. Replace the filter, cycle the key ON and OFF a couple of times. To allow the fuel pump to prime the filter and you´re ready to go. ;-)
Cheers
Yep your right I am just old fashioned but this tip might help
What year is this vehicle?
+Adrien Renaud 2004-2006
Did you say 1100000 miles??
This makes me feel great as I only have 280000km.
Lol yep, yours is just getting broken in
The fuel supply i mean.
Good stuff I know where it's at.lol
Lol cool glad you find it
Отличное видео!!! И к нам заглядывайте)))
+Vitaminka LiveTV спасибо, мы так и делаем, у вас приятные видео для детей, моим деткам нравится смотреть, мой 2х летней любит смотреть ваши видео :)
Couldn't finish the video......Ads are way too numerous and painful. Not willing to cough up the extra bucks for ad free service as it is too expensive for the times I use it. Welcome to 21st century big business. Everyone wants a piece of the pie!
Ads are annoying, but the amount of time it takes to produce helpful videos are many hrs, and I can’t work for free
Hey Sergei, i thought you might be interested in this topic. I know you want to do an engine swap on your sprinter. How about swapping in a europen engine. Not sure if they get much better milage than 25mpg. Watch this video about "why european diesel cars have better MPG than American market ones". Anyways love your content.
ua-cam.com/video/NsZWOjk9hzQ/v-deo.html
Thanks Josh
Never a good idea to fill up a new filter with no doubt contaminated fuel, best to fill with clean diesel
Guys guys guys guys ok guysss@
Ok
Your videos are very useful guys
Thanks so much