Ok, you are my go to video guy now for my Corvette! I like how detailed you are in your instruction! Having a couple of issues at the moment. I had a running 1977 C3 (still not road ready) and now it won't make a sound when I turn the key! I tested the starter like you showed and it works. I tested the clutch switch and it works, so now I'm stumped. I'm thinking that maybe it's that little wire going to the post on the starter that you touched to make the starter wake up! (If that makes sense). I'll ask my other question later. It has to do with the brand new interior harness!
I know this was a year ago but for everyone else...I had the same problem and eventually found a corroded fuse connector to be the culprit. As I was testing with a test light, poking at the fuses, I noticed at one point 3 fuses lit up where they weren't before, Hit the starter, and voila, running vette.
A very comprehesive look at refurbishing the wiring loom and not having to fork out $400+ on a new loom, as the saying goes, "If it ain't broke don't fix it" also worth noting that Tom marked all the ends with where they go, that's a must. Four points to mention: 1) Don't use those crap crimpers, they are no good, you need to use the correct crimper that is setup for the right crimp type and compression, basically if you just go crimping as hard as you can with those things after a while the wire will snap off with vibration because its been crimped too hard, I know I've seen it. 2) There are fuse links buried in the loom, be careful not to mistake them for connectors and cut them off. 3) Dialectric grease is NOT conductive, therefore DO NOT use it on the mating surfaces of a connector. 4) Don't use electrical tape in the engine bay, it will either melt or become a sticky mess, what you need to use is temperature rated cloth tape, it's specifically made to work in temperature sensitive locations such as engine bays, (ebay is your friend), it comes in different temperature ratings also. I used that corrigated plastic tubing also but it looks ugly and is not heat resistant, my go would be to wrap the loom in the high temp cloth tape all the way.
Thanks for all your input and thanks for watching. The crimpers did have it the correct space, didn’t really show that super good in the video but they did.
You could also put shrinking insulation on the metal cable connectors which were not protected before. It prevents them against moisture and getting dirty in future. You are in Canada, much more moisture place than for example California. You have also more salt on the road. Mogłeś pododawać termokurcze na wcześniej nie chronionych metalowych końcówkach przyłączeniowych przewodów. Chroniłoby to je przed wilgocią i brudem w przyszłości. Żyjesz w Kanadzie, o wiele wilgotniejszym miejscu niż np. Kalifornia. Masz też więcej soli na drodze.
I am reinstalling the Harnesses today, hopefully everything will work now, because before nothing worked lol The car has never seen winter and it never well but yeah I guess I could’ve done that, but either way I’m happy with the Harnesses now, I think they are 100% we will find out today, thanks for watching. Dzienki
I noticed you have an HEI distributor. Mine has the same setup. Mine requires a full 12volts all the time. That wire with the fiberglass insulation is a resistor wire so it gets hot and needs to shed heat. I’m pretty sure you do not want that wire powering that distributor. You don’t need the crossover wire to the starter anymore either. It will run the way you have it but won’t last long and run crappy. Yours might be different but thought I would throw that out there.
OK thanks I appreciate any and every suggestion, once I’m at the point where I turn the key and the car starts I will investigate those wires and see if it has 9.5 V or 12 V, I will dig deeper into it and make a video about it, that’s how it was set up when I got the car, I know there’s tons of electrical problems. , Basically nothing works, when you turn the key the amp gauge drops to zero and the car makes a weird noise, I know I’ll figure it all out just troubleshooting through it one step at a time. If you ever notice anything in my videos feel free to comment I appreciate it.
Problem Solver, 100% no BS great videos, they have already helped me quite bit. I bought my car running but poorly it had tons of new parts and upgrades and every one of them was installed wrong, lol. The HEI you have should be 12volts less voltage tends to damage the little computer inside. Just keep that in mind once you get her cranking. Keep up the good work.
@@pauljankowski5808 Thanks and I will definitely have a video on the distributor system once I read the whole manual LOL. For some reason I think I read that it runs on 9.5 volts, For sure the original system did but not too sure about this one, my Chevy G 30 has the same engine with the same distributor I could hook up a tester to it and see LOL
![Electronic Circuitry Diagnosis And Fault Finding! [Repair]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LC7OjuYAOQE/mqdefault.jpg)
Watching you shape that metal on your front door step was awesome. Turned out so good. Subscribed
Dobry pomysl na oczyszczenie przewodów okablowania dremerem super pomysl .
Ok dzienki
Thank you... Very thorough. You made this look so easy though..
And I'm planning on doing this to my 64 Ford falcon
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your project, you should check out my video on how to remove a wiring harness
I’m so glad I stumbled onto your videos, I’m restoring my dads 1973 C3 stingray and your videos are so much help!!
Hey welcome to the club. Keep me posted on your progress, hope you get yours working properly
Jak zwykle świetny odcinek! Fajnie, że pracujesz na oryginalnych częściach i naprawiasz a nie tylko wymiana na nowe. Pozdrowienia z PL
Pozdrowienia z Kanady
Nice job Tom!
Love your episodes, very helpfull man
Thanks for the info! Looking forward to the rest of the videos!
Thanks for watching. Glad my videos are useful
Your channel is amazing! I love it! :)
Thanks so much for the positive feedback
Ok, you are my go to video guy now for my Corvette! I like how detailed you are in your instruction! Having a couple of issues at the moment. I had a running 1977 C3 (still not road ready) and now it won't make a sound when I turn the key! I tested the starter like you showed and it works. I tested the clutch switch and it works, so now I'm stumped. I'm thinking that maybe it's that little wire going to the post on the starter that you touched to make the starter wake up! (If that makes sense). I'll ask my other question later. It has to do with the brand new interior harness!
Thanks for the awesome feedback, good luck with your project my friend
I know this was a year ago but for everyone else...I had the same problem and eventually found a corroded fuse connector to be the culprit. As I was testing with a test light, poking at the fuses, I noticed at one point 3 fuses lit up where they weren't before, Hit the starter, and voila, running vette.
A very comprehesive look at refurbishing the wiring loom and not having to fork out $400+ on a new loom, as the saying goes, "If it ain't broke don't fix it" also worth noting that Tom marked all the ends with where they go, that's a must.
Four points to mention:
1) Don't use those crap crimpers, they are no good, you need to use the correct crimper that is setup for the right crimp type and compression, basically if you just go crimping as hard as you can with those things after a while the wire will snap off with vibration because its been crimped too hard, I know I've seen it.
2) There are fuse links buried in the loom, be careful not to mistake them for connectors and cut them off.
3) Dialectric grease is NOT conductive, therefore DO NOT use it on the mating surfaces of a connector.
4) Don't use electrical tape in the engine bay, it will either melt or become a sticky mess, what you need to use is temperature rated cloth tape, it's specifically made to work in temperature sensitive locations such as engine bays, (ebay is your friend), it comes in different temperature ratings also. I used that corrigated plastic tubing also but it looks ugly and is not heat resistant, my go would be to wrap the loom in the high temp cloth tape all the way.
Thanks for all your input and thanks for watching.
The crimpers did have it the correct space, didn’t really show that super good in the video but they did.
Super odcinek, czekam z niecierpliwością na kolejny. Bardzo przyjemnie się ciebie ogląda i mam nadzieję, że kanał z czasem urośnie. Pozdrawiam 😉
Dzienki 👍
You could also put shrinking insulation on the metal cable connectors which were not protected before. It prevents them against moisture and getting dirty in future. You are in Canada, much more moisture place than for example California. You have also more salt on the road.
Mogłeś pododawać termokurcze na wcześniej nie chronionych metalowych końcówkach przyłączeniowych przewodów. Chroniłoby to je przed wilgocią i brudem w przyszłości. Żyjesz w Kanadzie, o wiele wilgotniejszym miejscu niż np. Kalifornia. Masz też więcej soli na drodze.
👍
I am reinstalling the Harnesses today, hopefully everything will work now, because before nothing worked lol
The car has never seen winter and it never well but yeah I guess I could’ve done that, but either way I’m happy with the Harnesses now, I think they are 100% we will find out today, thanks for watching. Dzienki
Thanks!
Thank you very much
I noticed you have an HEI distributor. Mine has the same setup. Mine requires a full 12volts all the time. That wire with the fiberglass insulation is a resistor wire so it gets hot and needs to shed heat. I’m pretty sure you do not want that wire powering that distributor. You don’t need the crossover wire to the starter anymore either. It will run the way you have it but won’t last long and run crappy. Yours might be different but thought I would throw that out there.
OK thanks I appreciate any and every suggestion, once I’m at the point where I turn the key and the car starts I will investigate those wires and see if it has 9.5 V or 12 V, I will dig deeper into it and make a video about it, that’s how it was set up when I got the car, I know there’s tons of electrical problems.
, Basically nothing works, when you turn the key the amp gauge drops to zero and the car makes a weird noise, I know I’ll figure it all out just troubleshooting through it one step at a time. If you ever notice anything in my videos feel free to comment I appreciate it.
Watch my Corvette C3 starter video, I think that wire that goes to the distributor has 9.5 volts but like I said I need to get the car running first
Problem Solver, 100% no BS great videos, they have already helped me quite bit. I bought my car running but poorly it had tons of new parts and upgrades and every one of them was installed wrong, lol. The HEI you have should be 12volts less voltage tends to damage the little computer inside. Just keep that in mind once you get her cranking. Keep up the good work.
@@pauljankowski5808 Thanks and I will definitely have a video on the distributor system once I read the whole manual LOL. For some reason I think I read that it runs on 9.5 volts, For sure the original system did but not too sure about this one, my Chevy G 30 has the same engine with the same distributor I could hook up a tester to it and see LOL
Did you ever find out what the orange wire was firy
Yes, it was for the air conditioning compressor
Enjoying the videos but man, you squished the snot out of that connector. I think your tool didnt seat onto the connector properly.
Thanks for watching, that particular set of connecter squeezers has a gap, I could’ve explained it better in the video
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Ki