Hi CleaveTech - absolutely brilliant! As an old mechanical engineer from the sixties (yes, I am that old!), every bit of balance adjustment could make difference between a "win" or a "loss". A lot of our mods on the muscle cars of the era were done with "hands-on" work like you are demonstrating. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with a younger generation and a few older guys like me, Ciao, L (FoMoCo engineer, retired).
Really interesting video, would you not true the tyres to correct size/roundness before going through this? Love your balance jig, might have to get one😎Subscribed👍🇦🇺😎
Hi Max. Well spotted. The tyres were prepared on someone else’s tyre truer that obviously had a bent shaft. I didn’t check them before filming! Just drop me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com if you want to purchase anything.
I have raced digital a couple of times but I still prefer the “feeling” of an analogue setup. I totally understand how digital racing allows multiple people to race together on tracks that would otherwise not be possible to race on, but analogue cars seem so much more responsive and pure. I will definitely consider a video on digitising a track and cars though. Good idea 👍🏻
I never use hollow grub (set) screws because I feel it compromises reliability. Perhaps if I grind the bottom flat reliability would go up as to say it would not loosen off the axle during a race when tightening down.
@miners_treasures that's understandable but if you tighten the screws enough so that they drag on the axle ahead of time it makes it easy to find the flats because the wheel or gear will get loose once the set screw is over the flat.
Hi Salvatore. I can ship to the USA. I am in the process of making a batch of them and they will be ready soon. Send me a message/order request via Facebook or email. My details are in the video description.
@@jasoncoburn8166 , my email and contact information are at the end of the description of all my videos. Send me a message or email and I will make sure one is reserved for you 👍🏻
Shure it makes less vibration....but im not quite shure if this transmit to a real benefict..once the tires actually absorvs parts of this vibrations....if Motor RPM is so hi....bigger than 70K....shure it does a difference.Theres much things to consider besides only what vibrations does badly into it
To make your ho mega g pmus cars better and faster is literally gel claw tires if running plastic afx track especially if its a two lane with no room to slide and the car keeps de slottting unlike 4 lane where the car can slide and not debslot. I do everything in this video and man my ho cars are screaming now i just got a few tjey cars and a few especially the ford gt40 mkii short chassis mega g us car all these tips maxe that car stick better and not deslot as easy as it would when it was box stock that balancing device makrs a huge difference as well
I don’t have a final price yet but it will come with one axle of your choice (2mm, 3mm, 3/32” or 1/8”). Additional axles will obviously cost a little more.
Great job 👍🏻. The key things are to make sure you use a ceramic or glass surface at one end to reduce friction and, as you say, use an axle with very accurately ground points.
I have noticed that my balancer has a “heavy” side. This is with nothing mounted on the shaft, just the shaft by itself seeks to a specific spot. The friction is really low and the shaft will turn very freely but always stops in the same position. I have check the shaft and it is straight and true. The ground points at each end are fine. It simply seems as if there is enough magnetic field at work on the steel shaft that it pulls it to a north/south orientation. Has anyone else found this problem or come up with a solution? Thanks for any feedback. Jim
Hi Jim. I think if the friction is low enough the axle will always settle in one place no matter what you do. The density of the axle can even vary along its length which could cause one part of the axle to be heavier than another. If you spin the axle and can’t see it move and it spins for a long time then you have set your balancer up as well as you possibly can. The only other thing you could do is to reduce the magnet field by using weaker magnets or moving them further from the points but you then run the risk of not supporting the axle enough. Thanks for the excellent comment and watching the videos 👍🏻.
Hi Dante. I will supply the 1/32 shaft with the balancing tool. I can also supply the shafts separate. Email me via the link in the description. Thanks.
Hey there ! We here in Michigan are waiting for you and your buddies to start a nice Hobby Shop there are many empty buildings , and I’m sure you will very popular and will have many customers ✌️
Well spotted. You are totally right. It really shows up well on the camera. The tyre was not taken down to the correct size for racing so I would normally spot those sort of things on my final balance before racing, but I will investigate further as to why it appears out of true at this stage 👍🏻
I would like to be able to balance my hubs and gear assemblies , have you any available that I could purchase one , The one you have made looks great , many thanks mark.
Hi Alain. Are you referring to an axle with flats for the grub screws? If you are, then I totally agree. I need to do a short video on how to setup the balancer correctly and mention a few things about matching the axle to the one you use in the car.
Good question. If I am preparing for a race, I would make sure the hubs are balanced fairly well before gluing on the tyres (balance achieved by shortening the set screw). Then I would glue and true the tyres to a size slightly larger than I think I would be using for the race. I would then balance them again using bits of tape but maybe not spend so much time getting them perfect at this stage. I could then try the tyres and practice with them. If I am going to use them for the race, I would then true them to the ideal size and rebalance them as good as I can get 👍🏻
Put a test dial indicator on it lol I love your dedication to slot car racing it's a great hobby. I still have my cars from when I was 8 and that's 54 years ago. I LOVE THESE LITTLE MARVELS 😉
If it will balance those wobbly tires. I think you have a winner. As for those of us whom think the magnet might clock the axil. I would think the orientation of the flux should reduce or eliminate this issue (poles at the flats of disc). One could test for clocking by switching ends of axil.
The colour coding was for two reasons… 1) to make it easy to identify which axle size is which 2) so that you always use the same end of the axle when balancing to ensure consistency
Hi Mark. Yes I do. Just drop me a message via my CleaveTech Facebook page or send me an email. My contact details are in the video description. cleavetech.james@gmail.com
You did nothing for balancing..this whole video. To balance properly, add a counter weight opposite the heavy point. Like another grub screw etc. Shaving grub screws is too ridiculous.
Adding a counter weight is what I did to balance the hub and tyre assembly. Reducing rotating mass where possible has a positive effect on performance. Adding more weight is not what you want to do if it can be avoided. What is the point of having a grub screw that is longer than the thread it engages with?
@@CleaveTech car wheels IRL, digital balancing.. Finds the heavy spot (valve/tyre etc) then calculates the counter weight needed.. Places in exact spot. I thought you'd add a weight (or another grub screw oposite) before you start shaving. Tolerances are small, but clearly noticeable in your clever design. Your channel is great btw, as is your tech, fascinating stuff. 🤟
@@InYourDreams-Andia , thank you for watching and commenting. I suppose with real car wheels you can’t start removing material from the alloy wheels. I wouldn’t want to add another grub screw because that can cause the gear to pivot on the two grub screws and not run true.
Yes it would help the balance but can also cause the wheel/gear to run out of true as it can pivot on the two grub screws rather than be seated on the axle.
Hi CleaveTech - absolutely brilliant! As an old mechanical engineer from the sixties (yes, I am that old!), every bit of balance adjustment could make difference between a "win" or a "loss". A lot of our mods on the muscle cars of the era were done with "hands-on" work like you are demonstrating. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with a younger generation and a few older guys like me, Ciao, L (FoMoCo engineer, retired).
Really interesting video, would you not true the tyres to correct size/roundness before going through this? Love your balance jig, might have to get one😎Subscribed👍🇦🇺😎
Hi Max. Well spotted. The tyres were prepared on someone else’s tyre truer that obviously had a bent shaft. I didn’t check them before filming!
Just drop me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com if you want to purchase anything.
How do I buy the product?
II am from Spain
Thanks for watching. Send me an email and we can sort out what you want 👍🏻
CleaveTech.james@gmail.com
Would you make a video on turning a analog car into a digital car ? Or am I going to have to turn my digital track into a analog track ? Thanks
I have raced digital a couple of times but I still prefer the “feeling” of an analogue setup. I totally understand how digital racing allows multiple people to race together on tracks that would otherwise not be possible to race on, but analogue cars seem so much more responsive and pure.
I will definitely consider a video on digitising a track and cars though. Good idea 👍🏻
I never use hollow grub (set) screws because I feel it compromises reliability. Perhaps if I grind the bottom flat reliability would go up as to say it would not loosen off the axle during a race when tightening down.
I've never had a problem with the hollow screws, even on stuff like group27 wing cars. The key is to use an axle with flat spots machined into them.
@user-ju8po9sy2m I prefer the completely round axles so I don't have to hunt the flats during a race.
@miners_treasures that's understandable but if you tighten the screws enough so that they drag on the axle ahead of time it makes it easy to find the flats because the wheel or gear will get loose once the set screw is over the flat.
Take my money NOW. I so want a balancer
They will be available soon 👍🏻
How and where can I get one of those? Are they available in the United States ?
Hi Salvatore. I can ship to the USA. I am in the process of making a batch of them and they will be ready soon. Send me a message/order request via Facebook or email. My details are in the video description.
Where can I get a tool like this in America ?
Hi Jason. I am happy to ship this tool to America. When I have finalised a supply of quality axles at the correct sizes I will be selling this tool.
@@CleaveTech plz post a link or contact info.
@@jasoncoburn8166 , my email and contact information are at the end of the description of all my videos. Send me a message or email and I will make sure one is reserved for you 👍🏻
Shure it makes less vibration....but im not quite shure if this transmit to a real benefict..once the tires actually absorvs parts of this vibrations....if Motor RPM is so hi....bigger than 70K....shure it does a difference.Theres much things to consider besides only what vibrations does badly into it
To make your ho mega g pmus cars better and faster is literally gel claw tires if running plastic afx track especially if its a two lane with no room to slide and the car keeps de slottting unlike 4 lane where the car can slide and not debslot. I do everything in this video and man my ho cars are screaming now i just got a few tjey cars and a few especially the ford gt40 mkii short chassis mega g us car all these tips maxe that car stick better and not deslot as easy as it would when it was box stock that balancing device makrs a huge difference as well
Would be nice to have my own Balancer James where may I get one Please.???
Since I received my balancer from you it’s been fun and very professional tool ! You keep up the great work , ✌️
Thank you Randy. I am glad you enjoy using it. Thanks for great comment.
How much will this unit cost American money
I don’t have a final price yet but it will come with one axle of your choice (2mm, 3mm, 3/32” or 1/8”). Additional axles will obviously cost a little more.
Wish I had seen this when I was racing!
I was so impressed I drew one up and printed one for myself. One thing I found is the ground points on the axle need to be dead centre.
Great job 👍🏻. The key things are to make sure you use a ceramic or glass surface at one end to reduce friction and, as you say, use an axle with very accurately ground points.
I have noticed that my balancer has a “heavy” side. This is with nothing mounted on the shaft, just the shaft by itself seeks to a specific spot. The friction is really low and the shaft will turn very freely but always stops in the same position. I have check the shaft and it is straight and true. The ground points at each end are fine. It simply seems as if there is enough magnetic field at work on the steel shaft that it pulls it to a north/south orientation. Has anyone else found this problem or come up with a solution? Thanks for any feedback. Jim
Hi Jim. I think if the friction is low enough the axle will always settle in one place no matter what you do. The density of the axle can even vary along its length which could cause one part of the axle to be heavier than another.
If you spin the axle and can’t see it move and it spins for a long time then you have set your balancer up as well as you possibly can. The only other thing you could do is to reduce the magnet field by using weaker magnets or moving them further from the points but you then run the risk of not supporting the axle enough.
Thanks for the excellent comment and watching the videos 👍🏻.
Excellent video. Where can I purchase the balancer set up? I live in the USA do you ship there?
Hi David. I sell the balancer and I can ship to the USA. Send me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com
Where can I get a 1/32 shaft with shape points.
Hi Dante. I will supply the 1/32 shaft with the balancing tool. I can also supply the shafts separate. Email me via the link in the description. Thanks.
Hey there ! We here in Michigan are waiting for you and your buddies to start a nice Hobby Shop there are many empty buildings , and I’m sure you will very popular and will have many customers ✌️
Let’s hope someone or a group of racers in Michigan can get enough funds together to have a raceway there 🤞
Hi James, I really enjoyed this video. Just a small point but the foam tyre you were balancing wasn't running true and would affect the balance.
Well spotted. You are totally right. It really shows up well on the camera. The tyre was not taken down to the correct size for racing so I would normally spot those sort of things on my final balance before racing, but I will investigate further as to why it appears out of true at this stage 👍🏻
I would like to be able to balance my hubs and gear assemblies , have you any available that I could purchase one ,
The one you have made looks great , many thanks mark.
Hi Mark. Thanks for watching. Send me an email cleavetech.james@gmail.com and we can sort out an order.
If you use a chamfered shaft on your car, the balancer shaft must be chamfered as well. Greetings from Brazil
Hi Alain. Are you referring to an axle with flats for the grub screws? If you are, then I totally agree. I need to do a short video on how to setup the balancer correctly and mention a few things about matching the axle to the one you use in the car.
I have a question
True tire before balancing
Or balance first
Good question. If I am preparing for a race, I would make sure the hubs are balanced fairly well before gluing on the tyres (balance achieved by shortening the set screw). Then I would glue and true the tyres to a size slightly larger than I think I would be using for the race. I would then balance them again using bits of tape but maybe not spend so much time getting them perfect at this stage. I could then try the tyres and practice with them. If I am going to use them for the race, I would then true them to the ideal size and rebalance them as good as I can get 👍🏻
James, Please advise us with the Inline Crown Gear Jig for drilling the Aluminum centered Crown Gear…
What's the best way to grind an axle to get those precise sharp points?
Haha, if I told you how I achieved the super accurate points then people would not need to buy any of my balancers and axles 😉
Put a test dial indicator on it lol
I love your dedication to slot car racing it's a great hobby.
I still have my cars from when I was 8 and that's 54 years ago. I LOVE THESE LITTLE MARVELS 😉
If it will balance those wobbly tires. I think you have a winner.
As for those of us whom think the magnet might clock the axil. I would think the orientation of the flux should reduce or eliminate this issue (poles at the flats of disc). One could test for clocking by switching ends of axil.
Are you selling this Balancer?
Yes I am. Please email cleavetech.james@gmail.com and I will get back to you.
Can i use this on my 1/64th HO AFX cars axels???
Why does there need to be a point on the end that isn't touching the glass?
It concentrates the magnetic field and allows that end of the axle to also spin true.
Great and informative video. How can I purchase one of these balancers?
So what was the point of the colour coding on one end of the axle? I don't think you explained your reasoning ☺
The colour coding was for two reasons…
1) to make it easy to identify which axle size is which
2) so that you always use the same end of the axle when balancing to ensure consistency
@@CleaveTech Thanks, that was my thinking too, but I just wanted to be sure.
Very good info 👌🏻
I have received my balance tool today and it’s sweet ! Thank you very much ✌️
Glad it arrived safely. Have fun 👍🏻
@@CleaveTech thanks
Hi James, I got some really nasty strobing at about 22 mins, after a sped up section
Thanks Les. I have now mentioned that in the description and I am working on fixing it.
So I wasn't seeing things
Where can I purchase this balancer?
Do you sell these ???
Hi Mark. Yes I do. Just drop me a message via my CleaveTech Facebook page or send me an email. My contact details are in the video description.
cleavetech.james@gmail.com
excellent product!
You did nothing for balancing..this whole video. To balance properly, add a counter weight opposite the heavy point. Like another grub screw etc. Shaving grub screws is too ridiculous.
Adding a counter weight is what I did to balance the hub and tyre assembly.
Reducing rotating mass where possible has a positive effect on performance. Adding more weight is not what you want to do if it can be avoided.
What is the point of having a grub screw that is longer than the thread it engages with?
@@CleaveTech car wheels IRL, digital balancing.. Finds the heavy spot (valve/tyre etc) then calculates the counter weight needed.. Places in exact spot. I thought you'd add a weight (or another grub screw oposite) before you start shaving. Tolerances are small, but clearly noticeable in your clever design. Your channel is great btw, as is your tech, fascinating stuff. 🤟
@@InYourDreams-Andia , thank you for watching and commenting. I suppose with real car wheels you can’t start removing material from the alloy wheels.
I wouldn’t want to add another grub screw because that can cause the gear to pivot on the two grub screws and not run true.
Wouldn’t a grub screw in the opposite face serve the same purpose ?
Yes it would help the balance but can also cause the wheel/gear to run out of true as it can pivot on the two grub screws rather than be seated on the axle.
.stl for the balancing tool ?
Hi Tommy. As I intend to sell the balancer as a CleaveTech product I will not be publishing the .stl file.