Black Diamond Presents: Babsi and Jacopo Send Zodiac (5.13d) on El Cap
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2017
- This past November, BD Athletes Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher went to battle on one of El Cap’s most formidable free routes. With some of the hardest climbing in the Valley crammed into 16-pitches, the Zodiac (5.13d) had only seen two previous ascents … until Babsi and Jacopo showed up. Check out this new BD film documenting the duo’s epic send.
Video: Louder Than 11
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Extremely good adventure/climbing filmmaking. A case study in perfection of storytelling and adventure cinematics... Jon Glassberg sure makes nice films.
Excellent use of split screen in this piece!
Yeah, it was interesting to see just how similar their movements were, particularly on 'The Nipple' pitch, awesome video!
Thought the same. That was very effective and cool to watch.
Fascinating ! :O
Split screen is so nice for climbing videos like these!!
This might be my favorite climbing short film of all time. Beautifully filmed. I love how well it captures the personalities of Babsi and Jacopo too. Splendid.
WOW! That was beautiful. Kudos, Louder Than 11!
This was beautifully shot.
Simply beautiful
Brilliant side-by !
Man! Thanks so much!!
Really nice production. Congrats on the send !
Wonderful video! I really enjoyed it :)
Great video - I would like to see a behind the scenes video of this, as I find them just as interesting as the production
Bella storia
awesome!!
awesome video!
Enhorabuena!!!
Nice video! Now recall the God damn pieps beacon.
Bravi ti ho visto qualche anno fa all'infinity boulder si vede che vai forte 💪
You make a great couple :)
Technics from her!
Nice vid ! Has it ever been done placing gear on the lead ?
Why were there draws pre hung on some of the pitches? There was one image of a piece of gear being placed on lead.
I would love to see a video of the filming process and the work they put into it. Also who places all the bolts and belays ahead of the climbers. Who puts the route up first!.
quiet sure they put the belay themselves. what we saw was the sent of the pitches not the progress and figuring out where to put belay. wich can be quiet tricky i assume on a 8a tradstyle route.
Agreed!!
Far, far too much footage of pre-placed gear in this film. Not placing gear on the lead reduces the grades of routes significantly.
Not saying that climbing this route free isn't a big undertaking in itself but it seems that sport climbing tactics have become so entangled with what until the late 80's was known simply as 'climbing' that what used to qualify as an ascent e.g. climbing something on sight (no pre knowledge of holds, moves, or gear) and placing gear on the lead doesn't appear to exist anymore. 'Before' people started trying to adopt sport climbing ethics into 'climbing' you could 'not' claim to have climbed 'anything' without being 'seen' to have climbed it from the ground up, on sight. You could place gear and down climb for a rest but not place gear and lower off it (Yo-Yoing) or adopt combined tactics etc.
Now you apparently 'send' a route. What in f*cks does that mean???? Get to the top any old how???? Seriously! More cheap, trash, language from a cheap, trash country that poisons almost everything it comes into contact with!
Can anyone help?...I climbed this route in '93 I think (not free but aid) and I don't remember either of the first two pitches looking the way they look in this edit. The first two pitches of Zodiac are quite distinctive as I recall; right facing groove/corner arching into a flake traverse.
That's because the Free Zodiac is independent of the Zodiac until pitch 3 or so, I believe
Music?
Hey Michael, you can find the music on the Fizzix Productions sound cloud, track title is "In The Morning"
Best,
Mike
do people just leave gear on the wall or what?
not typically
they pink pointed the pitches meaning they placed the gear on rappel and then they climbed clipping the grear that they placed not a full hard man/woman style but still very impressive
ah, yes. that would indeed be the case.
"we wanted to do a route which wasn't so famous"...climbs The Zodiac....LMAO
I think they meant to say "crowded" or "popular"
@@Deeds_of_Love Zodiac is one of the most popular routes on El Cap.
I wonder why almost nobody repeats those lines redpoint style? Patriotism (europeans did it first)? Strange techno ethics? Time constraints?
Very good video BD!
Bla Blum because they are freaking hard to redpoint
Yeah. That's the idea.
No but that's why no one does it... because no one can...
The numbers are not that high, lotsa people climb 5.14a today. So it's kind of sandbagged?
well the climbing is very technical and not your typical 5.14 overhanging sport route and also there are few sport climbers who have the necessary big wall experience to do routes on el cap.
So it counts as a free ascent if you place your gear (protection or draws) first?
Always room to improve the style. Hop on it!
Freeclimbing is not free soloing, look it up.
yes, but not as pure as placing your own pros
I could not climb this route currently but if i tried i would not be pre placing gear.
Trisha Scherfer that's part of the beauty of climbing: we all get to do it in our own style. For some pre placing gear detracts from the purity, for others it's no biggie. To each there own. I found it really cool to see a couple set a goal and accomplish it together regardless of the details.
Well said my man.
You would come and look at El Cap and wet your pants.
lol have fun projecting .13d/8b on el cap and each time you fail you have to get the gear out again and start from the bottom
And to think Alex Honnold climbed this route without a rope.
He did not, this is zodiac
I don't really get how this counts with all the preplaced gear and whatnot.