No powdercoat, but I do use a hardcast alloy. With a Lee 55gn mold it makes a 53gn pill. Die selection is important, especially with lead. I had to get Hornady dies to do it correctly.
I have done it too. Nothing insane. Velocity to start was just above supersonic with 55grn pills but fluctuated a lot. Cycled the pistol no problem. Probably should have been a subsonic load.
@@frenchroast1355 good to know. Do you flare the mouth at all? I usually use lee dies because of the factory crimp die and they’re cheap. Smallest caliber I’ve reloaded is 6.5 Grendel tho so I’m assuming my learning curve will be steep. Cheers
@@jeffhuntley2921 I had to abandon the Lee dies for the Hornady Custom because I was ruining too many cases and bullets. For whatever reason the bullets just were not aligning and beveling and flaring didnt seem to matter. The Hornady dies solved this problem.
My buddy Kev (also my camera man) reloads 5.7. He mentioned the internet claims that it’s damn near impossible to do, but he has zero issues. It works great from the 5.7’s we shoot.
5.7 is what i started learning reloading on (would not recommend starting on 5.7 lol). The FN FsN was one of the first guns I bought, and solely because of all the counter strike I played as a kid lol. Ended up picking up reloading because it was really hard to find ammo for it at the time.
As far as that coating goes, it seems to be fairly stout in my experience. I was given a decent quantity of 5.7 brass some years ago and the first thing I did was to toss them in the case tumbler to clean them up. Mind you, this was before I'd heard anything about the necessity of that coating for proper functioning. After a few hours, I turned off the tumbler and dumped out the brass and was annoyed that the brass looked just as dirty as when I first threw them in! I ran them through again (with the same results) and finally chucked one of them in a drill and went to town on it. After more effort than it was worth, I finally got the nice, shiny brass I was looking for, but there was no way I was going to put that much work into all the rest of them, so into storage they went. Now? I may have to take a closer look at them.
Im going to get a M&P 5.7 to reload for soon. I just got 250 empty 5.7 cases for $30 in the mail this morning. The M&P allegedly does not need the coating since has a gas system and rotating bolt. Instead of $1 per round I will be paying $0.20-$0.25 per round when I start handloading them. I will still be gentle on the brass but I will also dry tumble 10-15 cases to test them.
I just got the M&P in yesterday. Unless S&W themselves said the gun doesn't need the coating, I wouldn't trust what people or other reviewers have said unless that reviewer is me, lol
The barrel is actually what rotates, but that doesn't really have anything to do with extraction. The coating's primary purpose is to aid in extraction. Most cases have a tiny amount of taper, these are completely straight, making them drag the entire length of the chamber. Extraction begins while the case is still partially pressurized, making it even more resistant to extraction.
The S&W 5.7 extracts like a BOSS… about 12-15 feet. Not sure if that helps one’s decision making process but figured it’s worth mentioning… had a rough time finding brass😲
I really appreciate this video. While folks have complained about 5.7 being difficult to load for they usually don't go deep into the details like you did. I'm getting ready to reload for 5.7, just made the big purchase. Going against the grain, I am going to be using Longshot for plinking loads and Lil'Gun for high power stuff. This is based on my own extensive research combing through all the forum and youtube posts regarding the topic. Test gun is going to be the new Kel-Tec Sub-2000 in 5.7. This gun has one thing going for it in particular, the fact it folds means you can use the chamber as a case gauge. Pull the bolt, Open the gun, lock the barrel in a upright position and then see if the bolt will sit flush against the barrel with a freshly sized brass in it. Also if I ever get a neck separation, removing it should be a lot easier.
This is the next round for me to start loading. One big thing I have found on any reloading/resizing dies cleaning dies. Clean and polish the inside of your dies as they do get a build up lube and crud.
@Buffman-RANGE - Thank you for an informative and well-done video. You've obviously "been there, done that" where reloading 5.7x28 is concerned. I'm an experienced reloader, but this cartridge has made me feel like a novice at times. I have tried a couple of brands of dies (Lee, Hornady), gotten a case gauge, and experimented with different bullet profiles, data and so forth. The most-typical problem is failure to chamber or chamber fully. Before that, it was cases being crushed in the resizing die; or rims tearing off during the resizing process. Finally got those issues mostly-solved apart from an occasional problem, but still not getting positive chambering. With failure to chamber completely, I have been meticulous in checking case trim and OAL length, and the cases pass a check with the case gauge. Lyman's is the manual I am using for load data. Now, measuring factory loads and trying to get the brass as close to that as possible. The FA in question is a S&W M&P5.7 pistol. No problems whatsoever with factory loads, but little success with reloads so far. The brass is range brass collected from firing ranges, probably military & LE as well as civilian. I'd use new factory brass if someone offered it, but you already know that isn't possible yet. Any ideas? I am close to throwing in the towel, honestly, because I am about out of ideas and this little sucker is kicking my... well, you know where it is kicking me!
@@BuffRANGE - That's an idea, certainly. Thanks again for the insights. The area I am honed in on at present is to make sure the shoulder is resized back far-enough.
Thanks for the nuggets of info you drop here and there. I have been reloading 5.7x28 for almost a year, strictly for use in my PSA Rock. For now only clones of the ss197 that I shoot at the range but eventually I would like to find a good subsonic round. I am not really happy with the Fiocchi subs. Stabilization in a pistol, seems to be hit or miss for me.
I purchased the S&W mainly for the gas system. On my first batch of brass, I removed the case coating by wet tumbling with stainless media for about 6-7 hours. In my opinion, the RCBS dies I initially purchased, suck. I then purchased a Redding sizing die, and I love it! What a difference.
This video is GOLD. my bottom line after watching this - this cartridge just provides a lot of chances to f… up 😂. I am reloading 357 Sig without issues, so I don‘t see the problem with 5.7x28 in general. But down there in the 5-7 grains of powder area you need to get really precise with your measurements towards the max charge. Your 0.2 grains left or right on the powder charges, are a material difference on such a tiny case. And something as finicky as this I would strongly advise to use Quickload or GRT.
My guess it that the guys that are not having issues with the uncoated brass only clean the brass prior to sizing. They don't clean after sizing which leaves lube on the brass. The lube then prevents ejection issues. I also use the Sheridan Gauge and found that if I do an additional check by inserting the base end into the gauge you can find problems with the base. Good cases should drop in in either direction with no friction. I have also had good success with Power Pistol powder. Less powder than True blue with more velocity.
Hey buffman i appreciate the information thank you for paying attention to the caveats and the other details love the 5.7 got the MP kinda wanna get into reloading so this is a start I know 5.7 isn’t a good novice reload but I want the performance that is he gun is clearly capable of
Great info. We'll presented given the confines of the platform. Hey anyone else out there that wants a pistol version of the Ruger LC carbine 57 with a 8-10 in barrel, just enough handguard for your hand, no iron sights, no stock, just a cheek pad. I told Ruger they could call it the SLSC 57 Cheek Pistol. They forwarded the idea to marketing.
I'm playing Resident Evil 4 Wii Version right now. Thanks for the cool info on 5.7. I honestly think it's a super cool and fun round. I love that it's getting new pistols and rifles, though I think it is best as a pistol round. That ruger carbine looks so janky lol.
@@BuffRANGE Haven't gotten that far yet. I just got Ashley out of the Church. Man that El Gigante was a tough one, but I had an RPG and a bucket of flashbangs hehehe The TMP was cool but a bit unwieldy, I'm looking forward to the SL8. My friend said I can unlock a mobster outfit to go with the Thompson, :) I'm looking forward to that hilarity. Did you ever catch the bass? It's hilarious you can eat fish to restore health, and they'll do the display spin when you examine them in the Attache case, LMAO
Loading is easy compared with .17ccm which i have long used for 50 yd. Benchrest. But i spend a lot of time on brass. I anneal to get rid of coatings a.d uniform flash holes. BR shooters expect several reloads from each case. My 5.7 is used in a Contender with 14" barrel. Auto loaders are much too hard on the brass.
5.7 reloading is definitely not for beginner reloaders... To add to your powder list, I've used Longshot with good results. To put it lightly, reloading this cartridge really requires you to pay attention to the point of being anal with every step along the way.
somewhere along the line, I thought I saw you talking about getting lacquer out of the chamber...do you have any suggestions on how OFTEN a person should do that?
I did it for the first time in the Rock at 1,500 rounds only because I was Making a video about polishing. In my experience it doesn’t have to be done often.
I mean I make and reload my own 9x19 sabot ammo that pisses all over 5.7 velocity and energy wise, so probably but why? (41gr solid copper 60*pointed core going over 2,410fps from a 6” barrel. I love 3D printers! And lathes….
Speaking of "pisses all over"...it's always adorable to see the "it's MY way that's the right way!!!" crowd to show up on 5.7 videos to do exactly that. Being open to there existing just more than one-size-fits-all in life, I just went and watched the 1st and 2nd videos that came up when searching that sabot route, and all I saw were cycling failures. = Hard pass. Please advise when options like Vanguard, R&R, Elite are available, too. Until then I am pretty sure most people on here will stick with their 5.7 options and piss all over that Sabot and not go through all that stuff with the lathes and printers. Might be fun, someday, though.
On the topic of 5.7, I'm looking to get a 5.7 for my wife and mom. What carbine/rifle option would you recommend for a gal? I was thinking of the P90, but the market has expanded quite rapidly recently.
i'm a woman and find the ps90 very comfortable to handle. i'm on the frail side and have arthritis so anything too heavy or with too harsh recoil is a problem for me. having said that, 5.56 is fully within the range of what i find tolerable, though, so i wouldn't discount a lightweight AR build for either of them either (WWSD or something else in the carbon fiber, pencil barrel realm). don't really have any experience with the newer 5.7 carbine offerings, but the ps90 is great. definite recommend. replace the charging handles though; the stock ones are too small to get an effective grip on.
In the carbine space honestly the PS90 is the top of the food chain, but it's aftermarket support and FN support is limited. If your family members are AR familiar the AR-57 Uppers give you a 12" or 16" barrel with AR controls. The LC carbine isn't bad, but is kind of heavy for what it is, and I hate the trigger.
what is your opinion on firearms scraping off the brass coating in operation of the firearm? My ruger 57 likes to shave off a very noticeable strip of this coating when chambering a round from the magazine. this shaved coating deposits on the chamber mouth mostly though i dont have many rounds through it yet.
It happens. Mostly noticed it on the Ruger 57 and LC. The LC was really bad but after 200 rds or so, it's subsided. I'm guessing there's a sharp corner somewhere.
Not the easiest reload. But I ran through about 200 reloads with 30gr varm. grenades. Ended a coyote at around 100 yards with a ruger pistol. Traded it all in on a 16 inch AR marksman platform. At least I can turn my shot brass into 300blk subs for my bolt gun. Much easier to reload and can reach out to 600
I buy factory primed pulled brass 1000 for $170 Nosler 50 grain soft or 50g h points for $55 and 18 bucks for the powder not worth it ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!
I thought AAC was Advanced Armament Co, the company that created the .300 AAC Blackout cartridge. Is the AAC ammo and bullet company that he mentioned here a completely different company?
cases are not as robust as .223. 5.7 cases have the coating, 9 and .223 don't. Very specific powders must be used at fine measurement standards. 9mm and .223 loads are more forgiving and generally a .1gr over a recipe isn't going to blow up a 9 or .223.
@@heyhayhay247 pretty much there’s not cheap availability of that bullet. BDF and EA T6B are superior terminal ballistics IMO save for all our soft armor pen.
UA-cam is blacking screens out on videos they don’t like such as the topic of logistics of ammunition this makes images black while continuing voice and continuity of videos the only way to fix it is completely closing the video and opening it again this causes a issue for a user it’s called an annoyance factor which makes a user consider moving on and watching something else
people, this man is what ya might call an expert. he started with a case with finicky ness and has worked it out for you. i am not going to be using this cartridge. old dogs and new tricks and all. i have enough 223, 9mm, 308 and 45 to load. so Matt, starting now, no mo bending cases.
This is one of very few rounds I don’t see a use for and don’t get the hype I’ve tried to read up on it I’ve shot it some but I don’t get the reason for it,
You should post on lbry/oddessy. The more people who post on there the greater the chance people switch platforms. It'll be the content creators that get people to switch sadly.
![Is 5.7x28mm Just Overpriced .22 Magnum? [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I9sBMgau4ew/mqdefault.jpg)
5.7 is probably the most frustrating cartridge I've reloaded in my 45 years of reloading. But the reloads shoot well, even with cast bullets.
Do you powdercoat? How many grain projectile do you use?
No powdercoat, but I do use a hardcast alloy. With a Lee 55gn mold it makes a 53gn pill. Die selection is important, especially with lead. I had to get Hornady dies to do it correctly.
I have done it too. Nothing insane. Velocity to start was just above supersonic with 55grn pills but fluctuated a lot. Cycled the pistol no problem. Probably should have been a subsonic load.
@@frenchroast1355 good to know. Do you flare the mouth at all? I usually use lee dies because of the factory crimp die and they’re cheap. Smallest caliber I’ve reloaded is 6.5 Grendel tho so I’m assuming my learning curve will be steep. Cheers
@@jeffhuntley2921 I had to abandon the Lee dies for the Hornady Custom because I was ruining too many cases and bullets. For whatever reason the bullets just were not aligning and beveling and flaring didnt seem to matter. The Hornady dies solved this problem.
My buddy Kev (also my camera man) reloads 5.7. He mentioned the internet claims that it’s damn near impossible to do, but he has zero issues. It works great from the 5.7’s we shoot.
What an articulate, well-reasoned and informative discussion sir. I tip my campaign hat ...
5.7 is what i started learning reloading on (would not recommend starting on 5.7 lol). The FN FsN was one of the first guns I bought, and solely because of all the counter strike I played as a kid lol. Ended up picking up reloading because it was really hard to find ammo for it at the time.
As far as that coating goes, it seems to be fairly stout in my experience. I was given a decent quantity of 5.7 brass some years ago and the first thing I did was to toss them in the case tumbler to clean them up. Mind you, this was before I'd heard anything about the necessity of that coating for proper functioning. After a few hours, I turned off the tumbler and dumped out the brass and was annoyed that the brass looked just as dirty as when I first threw them in! I ran them through again (with the same results) and finally chucked one of them in a drill and went to town on it. After more effort than it was worth, I finally got the nice, shiny brass I was looking for, but there was no way I was going to put that much work into all the rest of them, so into storage they went. Now? I may have to take a closer look at them.
Im going to get a M&P 5.7 to reload for soon. I just got 250 empty 5.7 cases for $30 in the mail this morning. The M&P allegedly does not need the coating since has a gas system and rotating bolt. Instead of $1 per round I will be paying $0.20-$0.25 per round when I start handloading them. I will still be gentle on the brass but I will also dry tumble 10-15 cases to test them.
I just got the M&P in yesterday. Unless S&W themselves said the gun doesn't need the coating, I wouldn't trust what people or other reviewers have said unless that reviewer is me, lol
The barrel is actually what rotates, but that doesn't really have anything to do with extraction. The coating's primary purpose is to aid in extraction. Most cases have a tiny amount of taper, these are completely straight, making them drag the entire length of the chamber. Extraction begins while the case is still partially pressurized, making it even more resistant to extraction.
The S&W 5.7 extracts like a BOSS… about 12-15 feet. Not sure if that helps one’s decision making process but figured it’s worth mentioning… had a rough time finding brass😲
@@b.a.lineman7582 that’s very
Common on All 5.7 handguns
@@b.a.lineman7582 yeah my rock beats my ar by 5 or 10 feet.
I really appreciate this video. While folks have complained about 5.7 being difficult to load for they usually don't go deep into the details like you did. I'm getting ready to reload for 5.7, just made the big purchase. Going against the grain, I am going to be using Longshot for plinking loads and Lil'Gun for high power stuff. This is based on my own extensive research combing through all the forum and youtube posts regarding the topic. Test gun is going to be the new Kel-Tec Sub-2000 in 5.7. This gun has one thing going for it in particular, the fact it folds means you can use the chamber as a case gauge. Pull the bolt, Open the gun, lock the barrel in a upright position and then see if the bolt will sit flush against the barrel with a freshly sized brass in it. Also if I ever get a neck separation, removing it should be a lot easier.
Nice Let me know how it goes. The P50 action was weak relative to other 5.7 guns so I'm curious how the Sub-2000 is for 5.7
This is the next round for me to start loading. One big thing I have found on any reloading/resizing dies cleaning dies. Clean and polish the inside of your dies as they do get a build up lube and crud.
Great video. Very informative and presented in a clear, precise manner.
Much appreciated!
@Buffman-RANGE - Thank you for an informative and well-done video. You've obviously "been there, done that" where reloading 5.7x28 is concerned. I'm an experienced reloader, but this cartridge has made me feel like a novice at times. I have tried a couple of brands of dies (Lee, Hornady), gotten a case gauge, and experimented with different bullet profiles, data and so forth. The most-typical problem is failure to chamber or chamber fully. Before that, it was cases being crushed in the resizing die; or rims tearing off during the resizing process. Finally got those issues mostly-solved apart from an occasional problem, but still not getting positive chambering.
With failure to chamber completely, I have been meticulous in checking case trim and OAL length, and the cases pass a check with the case gauge. Lyman's is the manual I am using for load data. Now, measuring factory loads and trying to get the brass as close to that as possible. The FA in question is a S&W M&P5.7 pistol. No problems whatsoever with factory loads, but little success with reloads so far.
The brass is range brass collected from firing ranges, probably military & LE as well as civilian. I'd use new factory brass if someone offered it, but you already know that isn't possible yet.
Any ideas? I am close to throwing in the towel, honestly, because I am about out of ideas and this little sucker is kicking my... well, you know where it is kicking me!
Chamber quality tolerance issue on the M&P? I could certainly try loading up some of my reloads to see if they chamber in my M&P
@@BuffRANGE - That's an idea, certainly. Thanks again for the insights. The area I am honed in on at present is to make sure the shoulder is resized back far-enough.
Thanks for the nuggets of info you drop here and there. I have been reloading 5.7x28 for almost a year, strictly for use in my PSA Rock. For now only clones of the ss197 that I shoot at the range but eventually I would like to find a good subsonic round. I am not really happy with the Fiocchi subs. Stabilization in a pistol, seems to be hit or miss for me.
Likely due to the length of the 62gr FMJ and the 1:9 twist. A 55gr will work better for pistol use.
I purchased the S&W mainly for the gas system. On my first batch of brass, I removed the case coating by wet tumbling with stainless media for about 6-7 hours. In my opinion, the RCBS dies I initially purchased, suck. I then purchased a Redding sizing die, and I love it! What a difference.
I would say the tumbling brass is kind of a waste of your time, but the M&P action is a little more forgiving..
This video is GOLD. my bottom line after watching this - this cartridge just provides a lot of chances to f… up 😂.
I am reloading 357 Sig without issues, so I don‘t see the problem with 5.7x28 in general.
But down there in the 5-7 grains of powder area you need to get really precise with your measurements towards the max charge. Your 0.2 grains left or right on the powder charges, are a material difference on such a tiny case.
And something as finicky as this I would strongly advise to use Quickload or GRT.
I had to sell all my AE. I was getting 2-3 failures per mag in P90. (07/02 life) including squibs, bullets jumping crimp. Big old nope from me.
My guess it that the guys that are not having issues with the uncoated brass only clean the brass prior to sizing. They don't clean after sizing which leaves lube on the brass. The lube then prevents ejection issues. I also use the Sheridan Gauge and found that if I do an additional check by inserting the base end into the gauge you can find problems with the base. Good cases should drop in in either direction with no friction. I have also had good success with Power Pistol powder. Less powder than True blue with more velocity.
Hey buffman i appreciate the information thank you for paying attention to the caveats and the other details love the 5.7 got the MP kinda wanna get into reloading so this is a start I know 5.7 isn’t a good novice reload but I want the performance that is he gun is clearly capable of
Indeed you should be able to squeak some more performance out of this with reloading.
Sweet! I might be getting into reloading soon. So this was very helpful. Also became a patron. Thanks for all the great content!
I needed this!
Great info. We'll presented given the confines of the platform. Hey anyone else out there that wants a pistol version of the Ruger LC carbine 57 with a 8-10 in barrel, just enough handguard for your hand, no iron sights, no stock, just a cheek pad. I told Ruger they could call it the SLSC 57 Cheek Pistol. They forwarded the idea to marketing.
The lacquer on case neck is most important and dies rarely strip the lacquer there? Can u use bullet sealer around bullet neck without risking kaboom?
I'm playing Resident Evil 4 Wii Version right now. Thanks for the cool info on 5.7. I honestly think it's a super cool and fun round.
I love that it's getting new pistols and rifles, though I think it is best as a pistol round.
That ruger carbine looks so janky lol.
I loved Resident Evil 4. The Thompson was the Chicago Typewriter right?
@@BuffRANGE Haven't gotten that far yet. I just got Ashley out of the Church. Man that El Gigante was a tough one, but I had an RPG and a bucket of flashbangs hehehe
The TMP was cool but a bit unwieldy, I'm looking forward to the SL8.
My friend said I can unlock a mobster outfit to go with the Thompson, :) I'm looking forward to that hilarity.
Did you ever catch the bass? It's hilarious you can eat fish to restore health, and they'll do the display spin when you examine them in the Attache case, LMAO
@@BuffRANGE yes. It had infinite ammo too
@@PureCountryof91 I need to see if the Brother in Law will let me bust out the Wii again :D
@@BuffRANGE the switch version is solid too..
Hey Buff, that 5.7 is a cool round!
It certainly is when it's given a proper bullet and a good charge :D
Great points as always Matt! Hope you are well👍🏻🇺🇸
I am! Thanks for asking and stopping by!
Loading is easy compared with .17ccm which i have long used for 50 yd. Benchrest. But i spend a lot of time on brass. I anneal to get rid of coatings a.d uniform flash holes. BR shooters expect several reloads from each case. My 5.7 is used in a Contender with 14" barrel. Auto loaders are much too hard on the brass.
5.7 NATO ftw Huge fan. I checked the P50 barrel twist (American Rifleman) says 1:7" RH twist
I had problem with primers when I was trying to duplicate the factory ammo speeds. The fast cartridges have staked primers
What primers and powder were you using ?
@@BuffRANGE I still have some Acc 7 powder that I used. I used mostly CCI 450 primers but also the BR primers as well.
5.7 reloading is definitely not for beginner reloaders... To add to your powder list, I've used Longshot with good results. To put it lightly, reloading this cartridge really requires you to pay attention to the point of being anal with every step along the way.
Are you having trouble with "horseshoe" marking your headstamps? If not, I'm curious what shell holder you use.
Using Lyman and RCBS.. no horseshoeing.
Great info!
Great video!
Thanks for the visit
Shame they don't Flute the Chambers...
somewhere along the line, I thought I saw you talking about getting lacquer out of the chamber...do you have any suggestions on how OFTEN a person should do that?
I did it for the first time in the Rock at 1,500 rounds only because I was
Making a video about polishing. In my experience it doesn’t have to be done often.
I mean I make and reload my own 9x19 sabot ammo that pisses all over 5.7 velocity and energy wise, so probably but why? (41gr solid copper 60*pointed core going over 2,410fps from a 6” barrel. I love 3D printers! And lathes….
Reminds me of the dagny dagger prototype except he used a steel core to defeat lvl 3 soft body armor I'm guessing you can do the same with a lathe
Where u get sabots u making your own?
Speaking of "pisses all over"...it's always adorable to see the "it's MY way that's the right way!!!" crowd to show up on 5.7 videos to do exactly that.
Being open to there existing just more than one-size-fits-all in life, I just went and watched the 1st and 2nd videos that came up when searching that sabot route, and all I saw were cycling failures. = Hard pass.
Please advise when options like Vanguard, R&R, Elite are available, too. Until then I am pretty sure most people on here will stick with their 5.7 options and piss all over that Sabot and not go through all that stuff with the lathes and printers. Might be fun, someday, though.
So who's KB was that in the thumbnail Matt?
A forum member from like 10+ yrs ago. www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2012/02/27/fn-five-seven-kaboom/
Excellent info 👍
Matt, have you thought about putting up a more informative video on rumble? I see you have a channel over there.
On the topic of 5.7, I'm looking to get a 5.7 for my wife and mom. What carbine/rifle option would you recommend for a gal? I was thinking of the P90, but the market has expanded quite rapidly recently.
i'm a woman and find the ps90 very comfortable to handle. i'm on the frail side and have arthritis so anything too heavy or with too harsh recoil is a problem for me. having said that, 5.56 is fully within the range of what i find tolerable, though, so i wouldn't discount a lightweight AR build for either of them either (WWSD or something else in the carbon fiber, pencil barrel realm). don't really have any experience with the newer 5.7 carbine offerings, but the ps90 is great. definite recommend. replace the charging handles though; the stock ones are too small to get an effective grip on.
In the carbine space honestly the PS90 is the top of the food chain, but it's aftermarket support and FN support is limited. If your family members are AR familiar the AR-57 Uppers give you a 12" or 16" barrel with AR controls. The LC carbine isn't bad, but is kind of heavy for what it is, and I hate the trigger.
My guess is most of those cases you deemed as damaged could be ran through the resizing die and used.
A lot of them could be fixed..
Thanks for the informative video!
Thanks for doing this!
My pleasure!
what is your opinion on firearms scraping off the brass coating in operation of the firearm? My ruger 57 likes to shave off a very noticeable strip of this coating when chambering a round from the magazine. this shaved coating deposits on the chamber mouth mostly though i dont have many rounds through it yet.
It happens. Mostly noticed it on the Ruger 57 and LC. The LC was really bad but after 200 rds or so, it's subsided. I'm guessing there's a sharp corner somewhere.
Not the easiest reload. But I ran through about 200 reloads with 30gr varm. grenades. Ended a coyote at around 100 yards with a ruger pistol. Traded it all in on a 16 inch AR marksman platform. At least I can turn my shot brass into 300blk subs for my bolt gun. Much easier to reload and can reach out to 600
How is this even a question? It's been known for decades. Yes you can reload it. It's not hard, it's just not worth it.
Just not worth it how?
I buy factory primed pulled brass 1000 for $170 Nosler 50 grain soft or 50g h points for $55 and 18 bucks for the powder not worth it ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!
I thought AAC was Advanced Armament Co, the company that created the .300 AAC Blackout cartridge. Is the AAC ammo and bullet company that he mentioned here a completely different company?
There is that AAC too and they are also owned by JJE Capital Holdings
Americas ammunition company
Don't get SLAPped. :-)
Definitely do not!
As someone wanting to get into reloading not 5.7 i wish but wat makes it 5.7by 28 harder over something like lets say 9mm or 223 ?
cases are not as robust as .223. 5.7 cases have the coating, 9 and .223 don't. Very specific powders must be used at fine measurement standards. 9mm and .223 loads are more forgiving and generally a .1gr over a recipe isn't going to blow up a 9 or .223.
Is there a reason people aren't hand loading to SS109 specs?
Ss109 is a 5.56 round. Can you explain?
@@BuffRANGE SS109* Sorry. Typo.
@@heyhayhay247 do you mean Ss190 which is a 31gr FMI AP in 5.7?
@@BuffRANGE yes, I do. I'm not sure what's wrong with me. SS190
@@heyhayhay247 pretty much there’s not cheap availability of that bullet. BDF and EA T6B are superior terminal ballistics IMO save for all our soft armor pen.
Dry case lube shit isn't worth it... 5.56x24!!
AAC brass is too difficult to resize. Rim sticks in the shell holder and leaves the dreaded horseshoe.
What shell holder are you using? I have had no issues with RCBS or Lyman shell holder.
range trolls are the worse. however, they offer to pickup brass, which is nice--Green
Haha! Nice shirt. F UA-cam!!!
The weird "dry lube" thing doesn't make sense to me. Copper and brass have high lubricity. Makes me think FN used poor dimensions.
Like no case taper :)
UA-cam is blacking screens out on videos they don’t like such as the topic of logistics of ammunition this makes images black while continuing voice and continuity of videos the only way to fix it is completely closing the video and opening it again this causes a issue for a user it’s called an annoyance factor which makes a user consider moving on and watching something else
So this video is blacked out ?
@@BuffRANGE at a point in time it was blacked out but I just closed the video and and it ran fine it happens more time to me than I care to remember
Headdy
people, this man is what ya might call an expert.
he started with a case with finicky ness and has worked it out for you.
i am not going to be using this cartridge. old dogs and new tricks and all.
i have enough 223, 9mm, 308 and 45 to load.
so Matt, starting now, no mo bending cases.
9 months ago and this shows what i know. i bought a PSA Rock and ammo and reloading stuff.
No one makes a steel cartridge for the poors?
Not yet..
@@BuffRANGE Have you ever used corn cobb media to tumble with Brasso metal polish. If you don't like that metal polish try Flitz
First
This is one of very few rounds I don’t see a use for and don’t get the hype I’ve tried to read up on it I’ve shot it some but I don’t get the reason for it,
You should post on lbry/oddessy. The more people who post on there the greater the chance people switch platforms. It'll be the content creators that get people to switch sadly.