I went ahead and watched that Power Nation video on the K member alignment, and man what a different feeling show. Love your laid back attitude. Their felt like a sprint the whole time. Guess it's the difference between showing a weeks worth of work in 20 minutes vs your day in 30.
FYI Anyone With a Fairmont or Zephyr, that is building it on a budget, you do not need to swap the k member to put in a 5.0. You can use 1979 Ford F100 302 engine mounts with the inline 6 cyl k member. The drivers side k member bracket will also need to be trimmed to fit the oil filter.
Witness the laughter as Eric tries 4 tools to remove a bolt! 10:15-11:00 Been there. Done that. Next steps are breaker bar and breaker bar with pipe (OK, so that's usually after a futile attempt to let the air compressor get to max pressure once). Of course that's usually when the vehicle I'm working on is farthest from the tools requiring maze-running and hurdling skills over and over. I'm always amazed at the pile of tools I have to put away at the end of a job that were required to get it done.
Just did the same trick with the hood prop last night doing voltage and voltage drop on a car, needed the throttle to stay down. I've used them to do the bleed trick or to check brake lights when working alone. They do however make a special pedal depression tool (lisle) which i've been thinking about buying. I don't use it often but sometimes you only need to raise RPM up a light bit but the seat cushion is too slippery if leather and the hood prop falls off because of it's weight, so that's where this tool comes in. Just figured i'd make mention! My wallet hates my tool addiction but my sanity on the job thanks me for it.
I love it when Eric breaks out the air tools :D something is so satisfying about seeing all that rust and dirt fly off the car as a stubborn bolt is removed.
Been following this project since I found it on the interwebs. I used to help a neighbor (when I was a kid) put "totaled" cars back together. We fixed two of these fairmonts, well 1 fairmont and 1 zypher (same car only merc). Kinda fun watching an old one come out of moth balls.
I once had a 1932 Ford Model A come down on me and some friends while we were pulling the rear end out of it. Fortunately nobody was injured, but it was a very expensive and very heartbreaking mistake. You can never be too safe with a car that's on a lift! That tube frame is a beautiful thing! Some day, I shall learn how to weld, and start making tube frames for everything!
I had to modify my k member to fit in mine, I only had to modify one hole. It's so fun for me to watch knowing what has to happen next and knowing how much work it is.
Hi Eric, thanks for another great, warts and all video. Can't believe though that you've had your ramp so long but don't have a handy set of step ladders beside it!I would have checked the body and new member for their independent "squareness" before I started finessing anything though, your right, manufacturing tolerances were huge back in the day, so very odd that you had to change anything to get the bolts in.
Eric, I can't tell if you did this but I would make a plate to sandwich the rear K-member bracket since you ovaled the holes. This well help spread the load of the bolt over the whole of the surface.
Eric, I have been watching your videos for years and years. I have to say I think I've come to terms with cancelling my Netflix account, because this is much more entertaining. Keep it up, man. I'm looking forward to more vids. Take care.
Those damper support nuts just didnt want to leave home, A fully operational ... errr LOL so funny :-D, how dare they argue with you :). Fire comes to the rescue again, springs didnt stand a chance, such a usefull tool. You have removed many a stubborn exhaust flange to flange bolt with fire, no arguments :-). That fresh support frame looks great, smooth tubes, very nice. I hope you never lose interest in this car, there is a lot of you in it.
Hey Eric, you should make another "A day at the shop with EricTheCarGuy" video. I loved watching it. Pretty sure some people wants more of those videos.
ive seen a fellow tech nearly drop a car off a lift when dropping the engine and trans out the bottom of a chevy acadia, started to teeter and caught it with my hands ( it was pretty close to balanced) and put a screw jack under it
Nice job, Eric. Note that those aren't struts; they're shocks. Remove them completely prior to dropping K member to reduce the risk of them swinging out and hitting you or the car during removal (you almost dented one of your fenders). This would also allow you to simply remove the springs (using a jack or similar for safety) rather than cutting them with a torch under compression (presents other risks, including fire, burns, or the spring flying out as it is being cut). Also, PBBlaster or other penetrating solvent is your friend prior to removing any fasteners, particularly crusty suspension bits exposed to the elements for nearly forty years.
As a standard rule, ANY slotted hole should have a washer under the bolt head. The bolts that were there had flanged heads, and I suppose that was 'good enough' for Ferd in '79 - but in a situation like that it would have been advisable to put some washers on all of those bolts before putting them in place. Mainly I mention this as a matter of future reference. If you're ever bolting something on with slotted holes like that, you should really put some washers on the bolts. Even if they weren't there before.
The need to hog out the rear holes is a known issue on early Fox bodies. As you've discovered, the spacing between the holes is slightly different on the later cars (which the K-members are designed for).
You know Eric, I have been watching your videos forever and you have ALWAYS worn those yellow safety glasses. Are they the same pair from years ago or do you just like yellow? Lol. The other day I found a yellow pair like that in my shop (it was part of an AC dye kit I believe) and I tried em for a bit and I couldn't stand em! I don't know how you do it haha. Great video btw!
25:24 would it be better to ratchet stra the k member narrower and install? Once the engen and transmission is on there, and car is on ground the flex in the frame/k member would balance it out.
"And if that means just cutting another coil so be it". Just admit you wanna use the torch more. Torch cutting is so much fun if done safely away from fuel lines.
I am doing the same thing to a 1989 Fox Mustang that came with a 2.3. What brand of K-Member is the one you installed? I do enjoy your videos, they are down to earth so a simple guy like myself can understand them. Keep them coming. Wild Harold
Hi Eric... could you please do some videos on the VSA system. Like which scanners can read it's error codes, what they mean ect. My VSA light keep coming on, and I don't trust any of the Honda dealers round here.
Eric i watched your videos and i wonder, do you pre-losen those bolts before using those electric torque guns? I got a snap on one and it cant do the with the 3/8 gun and using a 1/2 is so cumbersome. If its the gun then what brand and torque they rated at?
Did you manage to figure out the fender clearance issue since putting in the new K-member and new control arms? About to buy a tubular K-member on my fairmont and wondering if i really need the new control arms or if I'll still have to make some modifications either way
Just a quick note... the old K member bolts 'are' stretch the yield and should not be reused. If you wanted to replace the K member bolts it is suggested the use new flag nuts that are still available due to they're long run on the Mustang. Great build!
Eric, could you do a video showing what brands you prefer as far as basic hand tools go? Similar to your wrench video, but also including ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, etc.
Anyone who does anything professional likes SnapOn. They just don't like the price. I worked under a head mechanic at a Trucking company last year and he had a $15,000 tool box. It was a great first job.
If I were going through all this trouble I would have installed a 460. At least a 351 (W or C). I would have even considered a 455 Pontiac as they have a longer stroke than a 460.
Can I suggest on those bolts where you had to 'adjust' the hole spacing you make up a 1/8" plate to spread the load instead of relying on some slightly bigger washers? A little bit of peace of mind that they won't rip out if the worst happens.
Maybe I'm a bit OCD, but when I run into this situation I use my MIG welder to fill in the extra space. Makes it look professional and no washers needed.
I believe I would have tooken a little bit of metal out of all of The Boathouse not just everything I love just one on each side I believe a little bit off of each photo would have made it stay a little bit stronger but it's not my ride and I am not a professional as you are but overall I believe your project is coming together beautifully and can't wait to see the finish product
At around 25 minutes, you are fitting the K member bolts to the frame; you decided to grind out the slots on the K member to accept the wider spacing. Is there a reason you chose that route instead of cutting the tapped backer plate in the middle? (Trying to learn, not trying to critique. From a structural strength perspective I would have imaged some other trimming may be more idea. What did I not think of?)
Do you need to perfectly align the K frame? I've done a bit of research and most people just eyeball line it up and bolt it in, the just do a front end alignment and call it a day. Like you said, the manufacturing wasn't "exact" back then as it is nowadays anyways. Just wondering how necessary it is. Thanks!
I'm surprised you didn't put any bungie cords on the struts/shocks to keep the control arms from dropping. Might not have helped at all though I suppose.
"Errrrriiiiiicccc, you're doing it wrong!"-----I was hoping you would say that in this video, it always makes me laugh lol Nice job on getting that old one out, that's a big heavy hunk of metal right there. But will the new one still offer the same amount of chassis rigidity?
+Eric what's up. A couple questions when you have time of course. I know you said that's a used k member, however I see it comes with pockets for springs, is that homemade? I want to install this on my 79 as well but don't want coilovers yet.. Tell me more about that please or is there a link for that k member and a arms? And Thanks for vids also!
I went ahead and watched that Power Nation video on the K member alignment, and man what a different feeling show. Love your laid back attitude. Their felt like a sprint the whole time. Guess it's the difference between showing a weeks worth of work in 20 minutes vs your day in 30.
FYI Anyone With a Fairmont or Zephyr, that is building it on a budget, you do not need to swap the k member to put in a 5.0. You can use 1979 Ford F100 302 engine mounts with the inline 6 cyl k member. The drivers side k member bracket will also need to be trimmed to fit the oil filter.
Witness the laughter as Eric tries 4 tools to remove a bolt! 10:15-11:00
Been there. Done that. Next steps are breaker bar and breaker bar with pipe (OK, so that's usually after a futile attempt to let the air compressor get to max pressure once). Of course that's usually when the vehicle I'm working on is farthest from the tools requiring maze-running and hurdling skills over and over. I'm always amazed at the pile of tools I have to put away at the end of a job that were required to get it done.
Just did the same trick with the hood prop last night doing voltage and voltage drop on a car, needed the throttle to stay down. I've used them to do the bleed trick or to check brake lights when working alone. They do however make a special pedal depression tool (lisle) which i've been thinking about buying. I don't use it often but sometimes you only need to raise RPM up a light bit but the seat cushion is too slippery if leather and the hood prop falls off because of it's weight, so that's where this tool comes in. Just figured i'd make mention! My wallet hates my tool addiction but my sanity on the job thanks me for it.
I love it when Eric breaks out the air tools :D something is so satisfying about seeing all that rust and dirt fly off the car as a stubborn bolt is removed.
lmao. I literally laughed out loud at "pee pee vision". I love you Eric. You crack me up bro.
I don't know how long you've been using HD but damn man, excellent choice. well worth it.
Been following this project since I found it on the interwebs. I used to help a neighbor (when I was a kid) put "totaled" cars back together. We fixed two of these fairmonts, well 1 fairmont and 1 zypher (same car only merc). Kinda fun watching an old one come out of moth balls.
I once had a 1932 Ford Model A come down on me and some friends while we were pulling the rear end out of it. Fortunately nobody was injured, but it was a very expensive and very heartbreaking mistake. You can never be too safe with a car that's on a lift!
That tube frame is a beautiful thing! Some day, I shall learn how to weld, and start making tube frames for everything!
I had to modify my k member to fit in mine, I only had to modify one hole. It's so fun for me to watch knowing what has to happen next and knowing how much work it is.
Awesome video Eric! Keep up the amazing work, can't wait till the next video. God bless
Hi Eric, thanks for another great, warts and all video. Can't believe though that you've had your ramp so long but don't have a handy set of step ladders beside it!I would have checked the body and new member for their independent "squareness" before I started finessing anything though, your right, manufacturing tolerances were huge back in the day, so very odd that you had to change anything to get the bolts in.
Eric, I can't tell if you did this but I would make a plate to sandwich the rear K-member bracket since you ovaled the holes. This well help spread the load of the bolt over the whole of the surface.
Eric, I have been watching your videos for years and years. I have to say I think I've come to terms with cancelling my Netflix account, because this is much more entertaining. Keep it up, man. I'm looking forward to more vids. Take care.
If you need to make up for the lack of T&A just go look at some of the sailing videos... Like Sailing SV Delos and Sailing La Vagabonde....
High complements indeed. Thanks.
Eric......the wheels on the Fairmont look perfect for it. Good job on the Kmember !
Eric, your impact introductions were priceless.
Getting closer!!! Can't wait.
"Because of the length of my drive shaft" LMAO! Good one Eric!
Awesome video Eric, you've got a very interested viewer here, that's for sure!!☺
Eriiiiiiiiiiiiiiic! You're doing a great job on the Fairmont!
Thanks.
Those damper support nuts just didnt want to leave home, A fully operational ... errr LOL so funny :-D, how dare they argue with you :).
Fire comes to the rescue again, springs didnt stand a chance, such a usefull tool.
You have removed many a stubborn exhaust flange to flange bolt with fire, no arguments :-).
That fresh support frame looks great, smooth tubes, very nice.
I hope you never lose interest in this car, there is a lot of you in it.
I hope you don't either. Also, I'll let you in on a little secret. I'll be doing this all over again in a future video....
Impressive....most impressive. The force is strong in a 1/2" air impact wrench.
You are one hell of a beast man! nice job!
Love the 70s ac condenser. A throwback to CFC ozone depleting technology that keep us cool
Hey Eric, you should make another "A day at the shop with EricTheCarGuy" video. I loved watching it. Pretty sure some people wants more of those videos.
I put a 390 Ford Fe in mine turned out real nice great videos
ive seen a fellow tech nearly drop a car off a lift when dropping the engine and trans out the bottom of a chevy acadia, started to teeter and caught it with my hands ( it was pretty close to balanced) and put a screw jack under it
"The length of my driveshaft". Hahaha nice video Eric!
Nothing beats the sound of a pneumatic impact
Nice job, Eric. Note that those aren't struts; they're shocks. Remove them completely prior to dropping K member to reduce the risk of them swinging out and hitting you or the car during removal (you almost dented one of your fenders). This would also allow you to simply remove the springs (using a jack or similar for safety) rather than cutting them with a torch under compression (presents other risks, including fire, burns, or the spring flying out as it is being cut). Also, PBBlaster or other penetrating solvent is your friend prior to removing any fasteners, particularly crusty suspension bits exposed to the elements for nearly forty years.
It isn't an ETCG viddeo without a couple of whoopses in. Great video as usual Eric. BTW, my cat is also called Eric :)
I can wait to see the next video Eric.
congrats safety well explained.
great video to watch i'll give you thumbs up.
i notice you never clean your bolts and use loctite any reason for that?
The icing on the cake is the Star Wars references.
Erriiiiiiiicccc!!! You're doing it wroooooong!!!
Kidding. Great video.
I put same KMember in mine I went with coil overs may go back to regular coil spring the Ford looking good
As a standard rule, ANY slotted hole should have a washer under the bolt head. The bolts that were there had flanged heads, and I suppose that was 'good enough' for Ferd in '79 - but in a situation like that it would have been advisable to put some washers on all of those bolts before putting them in place.
Mainly I mention this as a matter of future reference. If you're ever bolting something on with slotted holes like that, you should really put some washers on the bolts. Even if they weren't there before.
The need to hog out the rear holes is a known issue on early Fox bodies. As you've discovered, the spacing between the holes is slightly different on the later cars (which the K-members are designed for).
You know Eric, I have been watching your videos forever and you have ALWAYS worn those yellow safety glasses. Are they the same pair from years ago or do you just like yellow? Lol. The other day I found a yellow pair like that in my shop (it was part of an AC dye kit I believe) and I tried em for a bit and I couldn't stand em! I don't know how you do it haha. Great video btw!
25:24 would it be better to ratchet stra the k member narrower and install? Once the engen and transmission is on there, and car is on ground the flex in the frame/k member would balance it out.
if i buy a new pinion/ring gear set with all the correct parts i need, would i be able to essentially pop the old one out and install the new one?
"And if that means just cutting another coil so be it". Just admit you wanna use the torch more. Torch cutting is so much fun if done safely away from fuel lines.
Guilty.
I am doing the same thing to a 1989 Fox Mustang that came with a 2.3. What brand of K-Member is the one you installed? I do enjoy your videos, they are down to earth so a simple guy like myself can understand them. Keep them coming. Wild Harold
Hey, question about this almost 4 years later, could you have just left the stock engine on the K frame, and then lifted the car off from the engine?
i didnt know that about the brakes so they dont bleed out, something i learn today, thanks
Apparently Emperor Palpatine does not have much luck with impact tools and loctite lmao had me dying of laughter
What was the reason for lubricating the bolt threads?
If it was to make them go in easier, why not clean them up with a wire brush?
Hi Eric... could you please do some videos on the VSA system. Like which scanners can read it's error codes, what they mean ect. My VSA light keep coming on, and I don't trust any of the Honda dealers round here.
is there a reason you choose the yellow safety glasses over clear ones?
Eric i watched your videos and i wonder, do you pre-losen those bolts before using those electric torque guns? I got a snap on one and it cant do the with the 3/8 gun and using a 1/2 is so cumbersome. If its the gun then what brand and torque they rated at?
Nice, I cannot wait for the v8!
by the way what are you turning it into? a drift car? I am new here
+Tabby Black muscle car sleeper
+M Blake Jr ohhh thanks
in oz 8 cylinder and 8 cylinder cars have the same front ends if the 6 cylinder comes out with a v8 option
You know iv been a mechanic for over 80 years and i gotta tell you you're doing it wrong. j/k keep em coming! ;^/
Eric get you a 6' step ladder it helps when the vehicle is on the lift and you need to get up to the engine bay or drivers compartment.
Did you manage to figure out the fender clearance issue since putting in the new K-member and new control arms? About to buy a tubular K-member on my fairmont and wondering if i really need the new control arms or if I'll still have to make some modifications either way
Just a quick note... the old K member bolts 'are' stretch the yield and should not be reused. If you wanted to replace the K member bolts it is suggested the use new flag nuts that are still available due to they're long run on the Mustang. Great build!
Eric buddy.... Let's see some engine videos!!! I wanna see what you got together to put in there...
Eric, could you do a video showing what brands you prefer as far as basic hand tools go? Similar to your wrench video, but also including ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, etc.
Anyone who does anything professional likes SnapOn. They just don't like the price. I worked under a head mechanic at a Trucking company last year and he had a $15,000 tool box. It was a great first job.
Snap On, Snap On, Snap On
Do you not have any spring compressors? Would be a lot less scary to just compress the springs a bit...
hey Eric why didn't you drop k member and motor and trans together? just curious
If I were going through all this trouble I would have installed a 460. At least a 351 (W or C). I would have even considered a 455 Pontiac as they have a longer stroke than a 460.
10:35 Eric confirmed to be a complete Star Wars nerd.
An ORIGINAL TRILOGY Star Wars nerd.
Your path to the Dark Sockets is complete, young Eric.
What does the pneumatic impact have over the electric? Torque?
Ford Fairmont is the granddaddy of all Foxbody cars.
Can I suggest on those bolts where you had to 'adjust' the hole spacing you make up a 1/8" plate to spread the load instead of relying on some slightly bigger washers? A little bit of peace of mind that they won't rip out if the worst happens.
Maybe I'm a bit OCD, but when I run into this situation I use my MIG welder to fill in the extra space. Makes it look professional and no washers needed.
No worries. It's coming out again anyway. That will be covered in a future video.
Hope there'll be some custom fab and bodywork down the line, I've been doing alot of that the last few weeks, love it.
No plans for any body work at this time. Plenty of fab work though.
The fab will tie me over I'm sure. Loving the Fairmont vids mate!
What made you go with the mm k member over the other options?
Yeah, that rear K-member bolt thing is an early vs. later Fox thing. I ran into that too.
Interesting. Thanks for the input.
why are you putting engine oil on the subframe bolts???
love the #FairmontProject
I believe I would have tooken a little bit of metal out of all of The Boathouse not just everything I love just one on each side I believe a little bit off of each photo would have made it stay a little bit stronger but it's not my ride and I am not a professional as you are but overall I believe your project is coming together beautifully and can't wait to see the finish product
At around 25 minutes, you are fitting the K member bolts to the frame; you decided to grind out the slots on the K member to accept the wider spacing. Is there a reason you chose that route instead of cutting the tapped backer plate in the middle? (Trying to learn, not trying to critique. From a structural strength perspective I would have imaged some other trimming may be more idea. What did I not think of?)
Thanks Eric
I would use grade 8 heavy washers on that k member bolts
Don't worry, it's coming out again anyway.
The suspense!
You're a pretty funny guy Eric.
i would weld up the differents of the bolt holes in the k member for my own safety
How fast can you change a head gasket?
Do you need to perfectly align the K frame? I've done a bit of research and most people just eyeball line it up and bolt it in, the just do a front end alignment and call it a day. Like you said, the manufacturing wasn't "exact" back then as it is nowadays anyways. Just wondering how necessary it is. Thanks!
Yes, you should. As I said in the video I'll be covering that in a future installment.
+ericthecarguy k member the same as subframe mate?
I'm surprised you didn't put any bungie cords on the struts/shocks to keep the control arms from dropping. Might not have helped at all though I suppose.
Wouldn't it have been a little safer and smarter to unbolt the springs on the ground and just release the tension by lifting the car up on your jack?
"Errrrriiiiiicccc, you're doing it wrong!"-----I was hoping you would say that in this video, it always makes me laugh lol Nice job on getting that old one out, that's a big heavy hunk of metal right there. But will the new one still offer the same amount of chassis rigidity?
Lol! I love your side jokes!
Can you do a tool review of that Rockwell 1/2" Electric Impact
I've had a lot of requests for that. If I decide to do tool reviews again I'll do a review.
I did not have to cut the springs on my fox body mustang, you do need to pry them out (fronts), but they will not spring out onto your face.
Love to use the hot wrench!
does the car run in its current form?
I see a wastegate with a dump *big smile* lol....i didnt know you were going turbo but i likey
I would Love to see a Video of the old Front end being thrown into a metal shredder!
have you considered paintless dent repair?
i know you didnt want to sand blast and paint but i would of put new undercoating underneath.
Understand you don't want to paint up the K Member but are you going to de-grease the Engine bay before the V8 goes in? looking good though ;)
pepperoni hot pockets are awsome
+Eric what's up. A couple questions when you have time of course. I know you said that's a used k member, however I see it comes with pockets for springs, is that homemade? I want to install this on my 79 as well but don't want coilovers yet.. Tell me more about that please or is there a link for that k member and a arms? And Thanks for vids also!
I bought it used. I don't really know what brand or where it came from.
+EricTheCarGuy the search continues. Thank you anyways and keep up the great work man 🤓
What kind of k member is tha?would you sale it?
Eric will have the best sleeper around
Eric, with the left side k-member bolts, kinda points me to believe this was what is known as a "Friday Car"
I'm familiar with the term. Quite possible.
Keep those raw videos coming bro! Very informative and helpful. Also can you do a tutorial on how to change a differential
You need to watch the previous videos in this series. ua-cam.com/video/3E9BA6YlhjU/v-deo.html
+EricTheCarGuy aha! Sorry bro didn't realise you had them already. I stayed up till 2am watching your videos. love this project
No worries. Don't stay up too late.
Nice job. I was about to say no washers even after you widened those k member holes? and then you caught yourself. Lol
same here, I would have used large grade 8 washers or fab a shim
i was thinking same thing..you want as much clamping for those bolts.
Yeah man, I was screaming that at my monitor haha.
I'd have rather used a steel plate with 2 holes drilled at appropriate spacings, sandwiching the frame. Too much? At least I'd sleep easy. :-)
Bo Vejby that's what I meant by shim
My IR7150 1/2" cordless would've taken those right off those strut mounts!! Neener neener.. Haha good video though!!!!