How to Develop C41 Color Film at Home Step by Step (Easy Tutorial)
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
- In this video, I demonstrate step by step how to develop color film (35mm or 120) at home using a Unicolor C41 kit. (Written instructions below)
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Develop Instructions (with film loaded in develop tank):
1. Soak film in 102°F water for 1 min
2. Pour in developer, lightly agitate for 5 seconds every 30 seconds for a total develop time of 3 mins 30 seconds
3. Pour developer back into holding container
4. Optional Rinse film at 102°F for 1 min, then remove water
5. Pour in blix, lightly agitate for 5 seconds every 30 seconds for a total develop time of 6 mins 30 seconds
6. Pour blix back into holding container
7. Rinse film at 95°F for 3 min, under running water while refreshing/ changing water often, then remove water
8. 5. Pour in stabilizer, lightly agitate for 15 seconds then let sit for an addition 1 min.
A few notes:
* The process for developing 35mm or 120with this kit is identical. The only difference will be the volume of chemicals you will need to be using in the develop tank. If developing 120, it is critical to use a larger container for the water bath, so that it keeps the water level high against the develop tank to keep the temperature consistent across the film for even development.
Unicolor Printable PDF Instructions:
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Music Credits: bensound.com
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Hi there. I'm Chris. Film is more fun is a place where I share about whatever busted up old camera I'm currently shooting and tinkering with, or my meanderings in film photography.
It would be pretty rad if you said what's up. I'm 99% friendly. Definitely do that.
Disclaimer: If you want technical proficiency go watch 'The Art of Photography' (love that show). These videos are more like an elderly person navigating a tv clicker.
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Ilford,fuji, film, kodak, multipleexposure, doubleexposure, tmax, kodak, ilford, delta, filmismorefun, develop, selfdevelop, photography, analog, lightroom, adobe, darkroom, olympus, nikon, pentax, minolta, canon, 35mm, 120, portra, superia, fujifilm, diy, lomo, lens,
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Thank you for making this so detailed!! I loved developing in my film photography class and now I can keep processing film at home 😁
No problem Nina! I'm glad it was helpful 🙂. What films are you developing?
Great video. You've convinced me do a water bath between the developer and blix.
I started doing that. It will SEVERELY help the life of your chems. Otherwise your dev will slowly become blix lmao
This is a great instructional video, Chris! I have been wanting to develop color film at home for a while. Your instructions are easy to understand. I liked this video and will use your links when I’m ready to buy the equipment. Thanks again. Anthony. 👍
Thanks Anthony, I'm glad it was easy to follow. It's a great cost effective way to develop!
Thanks for this. The Jobo processors run at a constant back and forth motion which must surely have been desinged during extensive research. With respect, the agitation of those systems is far more rigorous than what you and sometimes others often suggest.
(You are very pleasant to listen to, by the way.)
Hi Kevin. Thank you for the kind words. I may be overstating about being gentle when agitating, but I've seen negative results firsthand personally from over agitation. So I tend to be a little cautious. 🙂
@@filmismorefun I cannot speak to your personal experience of course, but it may help to know that the C-41 process (as well as the E-6 slide process) was designed for continuous agitation in processing machines. The concern for over agitation is more significant in home processing, where film reels and widely varying speeds and amounts of agitation get used. The major concern is uneven development and higher density development marks left by developer surging through 35mm sprocket holes. Frankly, I think inversion agitation works more reliably than swizzle stick rotation of the type shown here. That's while I think using Paterson tanks is foolish, since they cannot reliably be used for inversion processing. (Lid leaks or blows off in mid-process; way too much air mixed into developer)
i took notes on this video before my first run and it worked great. thank you so much!
You're very welcome! I'm glad it helped. 🙂
You have answered all of my questions. The most important question for me was can you rinse after the developer, before adding BLIX. Thanks for the comprehensive video.
You're welcome 🙂 Happy developing!
yes you can. I rinse after developer 30s or 1 min
Very helpful! Have all of my supplies, will be developing this week
Awesome! I'm glad it was helpful. Good luck with your developing 🙂
I would calibrate those digital thermometers in a boiling pot of distilled water, correcting for atmospheric pressure. Or simply get a proper mercury thermometer! As for agitation, a better way is to invert the tank 3-4 times while twisting it around, then tap it a couple of times to dislodge any bubbles on the film! As for rinsing, a hose can be stuck in & the water left running.
Thanks for the tips! Yup, I do calibrate my thermometer, but in ice water instead. I have not had good luck with the invert-tap method using the c41 powder kits. My negatives would usually come out over agitated, so I switched to strictly spin agitation. Plus, no burping without the top attached. But of course whatever works best for you though!
@@filmismorefun While inversion agitation should give a more even result, the Patterson tank design makes it nearly impossible to do well and without leakage. The AP tanks are better about this; stainless steel tanks, while tough to learn to load, are far superior to agitate by inversion. Of course, inverison agitation means to roll the tank slowly - not a cocktail shaker.
@@randallstewart175 yeah, when I hear "agitate it" I envision violently shaking the life out whatever "it" is haha.
here I am buying a respirator and gloves and you are putting stuff in the dishwasher lol
Ah... strengthen up your immune system, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger! 😂
But the real deal is that they go in a separate cycle with no dishes. Afterwards I run two additional empty cycles with vinegar to make sure the dishwasher doesn't have any residual chemicals in it. This only happens (maybe) twice a year.
I'll try rinsing between dev and blix next time. Def wont hurt to try. Great video
Thanks!
This was extremely helpful! Really well put together! Thank you
Hi Chris! Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad it was helpful 🙂
His comments on gentile agitation are a bit misleading. The C-41 process is designed for films and chemistry using continuous agitation. Most people use periodic agitation, which if done sufficiently will work okay. If in doubt, agitate more, nor less. The reason that users of the Paterson tank of the type shown here is that the large , flexible top is a bit tricky to properly attach to the tank, and with a build-up of pressure during the blix cycle,this top has been know to blow off in mid process. If you are starting out and buying new equipment, consider buying a different type or brand of tank, on with a smaller or screw on top.
IMO the focus here on temperature maintenance makes this video far superior to the vast majority which give half-hearted lip service to the subject, or ignore it by adopting extended processing at room temperatures, accepting the resulting color shifts without comment. I think it would be still easier to control temperature if using a large plastic dish washing pan to hold water heated to processing temp, keeping the chemical bottles and tank therein to warm up and during processing. That way you just monitor one temperature (the bath) and do not let the tank cool and then be reheated ion hot water. Add hot water to the bath as it cools. When done, use the pan to store chemical bottles, tank, etc. (Although I have acquired more sophisticated automatic temperature control equipment I could use, for my color development, I still use an insulated, plastic picnic cooler intended to hold a 6-pack of beer cans plus a fish tank heater; it will hold 100 degrees for E-6 processing all day if needed.)
That picnic cooler suggestion is great!
If u use a plastic pan, how do u heat up the water? without having wasted running hot tap water or a fish tank heater? Can I just heat up water on the stove and pour it into a cooler?
@@3lazinflava Yeah, that's exactly how I do it! I heat up a pot of water on the stove, and just carry that into the area I'm working to use it as a water bath. 🙂
I start by filling my insulated cooler with water around 105-110F. I use a heater to maintain that around 102F. Since putting cold chemical bottles in the water bath will drag down the temperature, I get that going well prior to the time I plan to process, so everything settles at an idea temperature. If you do not use some type of heater for the bath, you will have to periodically add hotter water to maintain a given temperature, which I would consider a huge inconvenience. For running water, I use a regular mixing faucet with a thermometer in the hose to track temp.
@@3lazinflava Sure. But remember than both the cooler and whatever you put in it is going to start at a much cooler temperature, so you need to start at a higher temp than were you want to end up or you spend all of your time rewarming the container. If water consumption is a big issue for you, consider one of the heater units like the Cinestill CS1000 to heat and maintain temperature of your water bath.
Interesting to note you add a wash step between the developer and the blix. The Tetenal c-41 kit I bought doesn't include this step in the instructions and when I did a run yesterday and returned the blix to the bottle the following run had some real issues and I think it is due to contamination of the blix with the residue of developer. Needless to say I now have some Kodak portra fit for B&W scanning only!
Sorry to hear about the roll of Portra! I've experienced the same thing. The extra wash isn't mentioned in any kits I've used, either, but it seems to prolong the lifespan of the chems.
Yeah, luckily I shot the subjects on film and digital so not all is lost!
Developer can't ruin Blix -- that contamination takes place during normal processing. However, even tiny amounts of Blix can ruin your developer, so maybe you put the Blix cap on the developer.
@@davefaulkner6302 Will it is true that developer can be destroyed by being contaminated with blix, it is not entirely true sloppy processing cannot allow too much developer to carry over and reduce the useful life of a blix. The reason that manufacturers do not call for a wash step between developer and blix is a matter of marketing. A wash step would make the kit "more complicated" than the other guy's kit,so they leave it out. Similarly, some (Tetenal) omit a stabilizer from some C-41 kits as "no longer necessary", which is pure BS. That makes their it look easier to use and saves them 15 cents worth of chemicals. Compare these kit processes to a true, "official;" C-41 process, which calls for a stop bath and wash after the developer step, a separate bleach, then wash, then fixer and then wash, and finally a stabilizer step. These two and three bath C-41 kit makers do not know more about the chemistry required than Kodak, which invented the process.
@@randallstewart175 I prefer C-41 kits with a separate bleach and fixer that include also a stabilizer. Tetenal is overpriced, and it is a simplified C-41 with a "blix" (bleach-fix bath). I also use 3% acetic acid stop bath after developer, as suggested by Kodak documentation about C-41 process.
Film definitely is more fun than an SD card.
Just developed my first ever rolls of film tonight. Probably made things a little difficult for myself by using very expired film but apart from the negs looking a bit darker than lab processed (and fresh film) negs, I think they look okay. I added a stop of exposure when I shot them. I also didn't let them dry long enough after processing and they were still a little "sticky", but after proper drying they lost the stickiness. Tomorrow I'll "scan" them with my DSLR and see what I end up with. These first two rolls were shot with an olympus 35RC and a lomo lca. So next batch will be left to dry for several hours before I cut them up. Is it worth adding a little dishwashing liquid to the final rinse to stop water spotting?
Hey Jason! Congrats on developing your first roll. I'm glad it went well. I don't know that I'd use dishwashing liquid. What I do is pour a little bit of Kodak Photoflo in the stabilizer to help with any drying spots. 🙂
To avoid water spots, use Photoflo at about half the Kodak recommended dilution (strength) as a final (1 minute) bath after washing the film. If you are getting deposits (spots) from local hard water, use your normal water to wash, but use distilled or deionized water with the Photoflo in that final bath. A drop (and I mean 1 drop) of dish detergent can substitute for PHotoflo if necessary, but remember that the dish detergent has color dyes and perfume in it, so it's not preferred to a bottle of Photoflo which will cause about 3 times as much as detergent but will last a lifetime of processing.
Hi, I just watched your video. Thx a lot for the explanation. I’m going to start to develop my color films at home too and was wondering if you could let me know what is the temperature in Celsius grades. I’m in a part of Europe where we don’t use Fahrenheit measures. Thx a lot and again you have a nice video feed. Should keep on posting! 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi there! I'm glad it was helpful. I'm not sure the conversion temp of the top of my head, but you can Google or search for Celsius conversions and it will come right up. 🙂
Roughly 38 degrees (I know that because I've spent two summers in Brisbane Australia lol)
Use gloves and a mask with c41. A must if you don't want to risk cancer.
Nice! On my first three attempts of developing resulted in a yellowish gradient / cast coming from the sides of the film - not a possible light leak since I'm using a Hasselblad. I'm not sure if it was poor blixing or leftover from the developer stayed in the paterson tank and mixed with the blix. Also, I will try doing it at 30º (86F) instead of 38º (102F).
I hope it turns out on your next run 🙂
I suggest using an acetic acid stop bath after developing. This helps controlling the time of developing step, which must be accurate. Just don´t use "odorless" stop baths based on citric acid, as they are not compatible with C-41 process. Acetic acid 3% works just fine, and is recommended by Kodak in their information publications about C-41 process. Also, I have got better results with chemistry including separate bleach and fix steps, compared to those kits with a bleach-fix "blix". Developing in 30C is possible, but will lead to a color shift. This can be corrected when printing, but standard color head settings for this film stock you have always used with your enlarger will not work, and you must do a lot of test prints. This doesn´t apply, if you are scanning your negatives, and not printing them in a darkroom with an enlarger. as I do.
Would have been great if you had also said the temperatures in celsius which more or less the rest of the world uses.
Great idea. 🙂 I'll put a link to that here: www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk02k7liPJ8grU2rEp3rLZdjyE29Jzg%3A1588504900765&source=hp&ei=RKmuXq7LK-CxytMPjZaB-Aw&q=f+to+celsius&oq=f+to+cel&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBABGAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADoHCCMQ6gIQJzoECCMQJzoFCAAQgwE6BAgAEEM6BAguEEM6AgguOgIIE1DuMliBQmDKaGgBcAB4AIABnQGIAZIIkgEDMC44mAEAoAEBsAEP&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp
Thanks for sharing your experince, really helpful!
Great video
Thanks!
Great vid.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
great tutorial; thanks a bit; just a question there is no sensitivity on temperature about 1 or 2 degrees?
Hi there, yes color film is very sensitive to temperature deviations from 102°f. It will cause color shifting and color casts on your film.
so how you are sure it does mot change during development?
@@MehriJamshidi Because C41 film is designed to be developed at a certain temperature. Some people will say you can have a variance in the temp 1 or 2 degrees but I've never personally had good results when this occurs.
When it's on the stove, what temp is to reaching up to?
Hi there! I just bring the chemical temps to 102° farenheit.
When heating up the chemicals do you pass the 102 mark to compensate for the time it will be sitting around cooling down? Great video btw
Hi there. I first heat the chemicals up to the correct temperature, and then place it in or remove it from a water bath (I use a large pot) that has water that is hotter then the required temp.) This way I can regulate the chemical temp as it drops.
I have always held my chemistry and the tank in a large water bath with the exact temperature of 39´C (102.2´F). I put the bottles in the bath for about 30-45 minutes before I start developing the film. You must follow just the temperature of the water, as everything will be then at the same temperature. It is important not to allow any changes in temperature during the process, or color balance will change. Also, time for developer must be counted until you pour the bleach-fix into the tank, as the developing process will stop only then. Of course, some imbalance in color can be corrected when printing, but incorrect temperature, wrong time or not agitating in every 30 seconds tends to lead in the film being partially casted in a wrong color, which is impossible to correct with a standard color enlarger. You can scan and photoshop, but why should you then use film, if you digitize it after all? In my opinion, it is best to agitate by turning the tank upside down for 2-3 times every 30 seconds to ensure the chemicals get thoroughly mixed. C-41 is a bit easier process than E6 for slides, as this process is even more dependent on exact temperature and timing. Chemistry made by Tetenal can be recommended. RA-4 process for color printing for paper is easy, as it is not as sensitive to inconsistent temperatures. I remember the older EP-2, which was used in the 1990´s for paper, which was a bit trickier.
Thank you! What are the differences if I use different ISO films? Does it change the times of developing from 100,200,400 ISO film rolls?
You're welcome! No, using different iso films does not change anything about the time, temperature, or chemicals when developing- as long as you are shooting the film at the rated box speed. For example, say you have a box of 400 speed Fuji color, and another box of 200 speed Kodak Max. These can be developed together, as long as the Fuji was shot at 400, and the Kodak was shot at 200. I hope that helps! 😉
Film is more fun let’s say I did shoot 200 film at 400. What is the process for developing? Do I just do it the same but in its own developer?
@@nathanielphoto To get negatives of normal density where under exposed, the best practice is to "push" one stop by extended development. This is had by using a longer than normal developer process time,while other steps remain normal. How much more is a matter of which brand of chemistry you use. The manufacturer can provide that information and often does so in the instructions provided with the chemistry kit.
@@randallstewart175 Pushing with color film is not that easy, as it will shift the colors. Up to a certain point, you can correct these shifts when printing. I assume this is easier when scanning negatives in a computer, but I personally have no experience in scanning negatives. I print mine in my darkroom in the old-fashioned, analog way.
@@b6983832 Fully agree. Whether color or B&W, "pushing" is always going to degrade the quality of your result. It should be reserved for those times when you need to salvage a screw-up or it's "shoot it that way or nothing". The current trend on YT to pull or push film as a normal event is an unfortunate abuse of the technology propagated by those largely ignorant of the processes. In C-41, scanning negatives and digitally processing the images to remove all sorts of defects has become the norm. Most of the DIY at home kits these days compromise the process enough for user convenience that the resulting negatives deviate far from standards and are generally hard to print well to RA-4 paper.
Yo thank you
No prob your welcome
Thanks for the great video. I've been getting a blue cast to my images after developing. I can usually white balance it out but I'm trying to figure out what might be my issue. Any experience with a blue cast? Could that be related to temperature issue?
Hi there. Yeah, it may be due to incorrect time or temp. It doesn't take much to throw the chemicals off unfortunately.
Most likely your developer is not warm enough, developing time is too short, your chemistry is exhausted, or has been contaminated by a small amount of bleach. I have no experience editing pictures in a computer, but when printing RA-4 in a darkroom in the traditional way, you can control color shifts up to a certain point. Blue cast due to underdevelopment is at times impossible to correct up to a point it would be impossible to see in prints.
Can you reuse the chemicals after repouring in the bottles?
Yes. There will be a note listing how many times you can reuse the chemicals in the instructions, but it's possible to get more uses than the recommended amount of uses sometimes.
That's where the additional wash after pouring out the developer and starting the blix steps will help to extend the life of your chemicals. (Adding this additional wash also gives a better final result in my opinion).
I hope that helps! 🙂
Thanx a lot! I am a beginner so I have a lot of questions!
You're welcome! Glad I could help.
You actually can be quite flexible with the temperatures and the agitations. It's not as strict as you make it seem.
Sure, if you modify the develop time. (If you're pushing or pulling.) But I've found that altering from the standard temp when developing for the recommended times can result in color shifts. 🙂
When the chemicals are exhausted what do you do with them?
Hi there! As far as I know, most municipalities allow hobbyist amounts of chemicals to be disposed into the drain. To be on the safe side you can always check with them, and if they don't allow it they would probably suggest an alternative. I hope that helps!
Thank you
What happens if you shock the film with cold water during the last wash? I was trying to develop my two first films and they were ruined. I'm trying to find out what I did wrong.
After the film is fixed I believe the temperature is less of a factor. Are you sure your working development temperatures are exact? As I understand it, that is when the most color shifting will occur due to any incorrect temps.
Interesting you only do agitation with the stick instead of inversions. I've been having trouble with what seems to be over development of the film edges so I'll try this more gentle method. Have you had any experiences with over development with film edges and those annoying sprocket hole "leaks" ?
Hey there. The only times I was having any over development issues was when I had the temperature too hot, temperature uneven around the tank, or was too aggressive with the spin rod during agitation. I hope that helps! 🙂
The problem with inversion agitation in a Paterson tank is that they leak. If the chemical process generates any pressure in the tank, it can easily pop off the top sealing lid during agitation. Generally, Paterson, although much used, is as poor a design of tank as ever made.
Hey mike! How did the more gentle method go?
@@InoDrums Hey sorry for the late reply. I've had great success with more gentle agitation. I invert the tank slowly 4 times, double tap on counter, and let it sit back in the 102 degree water bath until the next inversion. But with so many variables in the process that can affect the final image, it's really hard to pinpoint the exact cause of any issues. All that being said, I want to believe that yes, the very gentle method has worked lol.
When you made this video, was the chemistry freshly mixed? The times in your video are slightly longer than in my tetenal C41 instruction booklet
HI Cameron! Yeah, this was a fresh batch. In the video I am using a Unicolor kit, so I'm not sure, but maybe there is a slight difference between the chem times. Thanks for pointing that out!
@@filmismorefun I have another question.... Is the blix time as critical, in other words, can you leave the film in the blix a bit longer than the recommended time? The last film I developed (it was my second attempt) lacked contrast and had a magenta tone with milky water marks on the dried film. From doing some research it was recommeded to leave the film in the Blix for a longer period. (I loved your video by the way)
Thanks, glad the vid was helpful! I've read the same, that you cant over-blix, but have never tried it. I had a magenta tone issue on a few rolls as well, but I attributed mine to chem temps that were off slightly (the temps really need to be spot-on), and also think that I had exhausted chems when I got a magenta cast another time.
@@cameronwilson8561 While changing the developer time will effect your image density and can cause shifts in the color balance, the bleach and fixer steps, a combined "blix" in most of these kits, chemicals runs to "completion. This means that these chemical process until whatever they are doing with the film is fully completed. Then, with nothing more in the film to process, they stop automatically.. Within reason (not left for hours), extended time in such solution(s) will not cause any damage. However, if the chemistry has been reused to the point where its active ingredients have been largely consumed, then modest extension of process times will not correct for such deficiencies. These problems will come up when the kit says it can do 12 rolls of film, and the user crows that he can get 20 rolls processed. No, he cannot, but he can marginally screw up his last half dozen rolls. Since such deterioration is marginal and the user of exhausted chemistry is looking to overuse as an economy, such folks are usually not critically examining their results.
@@cameronwilson8561 Wrong tone is normally not caused by blix, but it is due to wrong temperature or a wrong developing time, as the colors are produced during the developing step. Too short blix time would leave silver crystals in the emulsion Too long time (if not 5 min or more) of blixing does nothing, as there will be nothing left in the film to react with. Your problem is with the developer.
When you do this process, do you need to make your 8-10 rolls the same day or you can keep the liquid for few month?
Hi there! The best thing to do is develop as many as you can while the chemicals are fresh, because they do go bad over time. I've started to notice color shifts after a few weeks of storage. So using faster is definitely better. Hope that helps! 🙂
@@filmismorefun Perfect thank you !
@@ProductionLSK no prob!
Where can I buy the kit? Is Kodak still making chemicals? I did not see any on their site.
Hi Roger. I used a Unicolor kit. They're available at Freestyle Photo, and some other retailers that sell photo equipment, including Amazon.
Here is a link to the kit on Amazon:
www.amazon.com/Ultrafine-Unicolor-Powder-Developer-Liter/dp/B00OU6NDSG
Hope that helps! 🙂
Kodak still makes color (C-41 process) chemistry under their trade name Flexicolor. However they still in volumes more appropriate to commercial labs rather than home users. They also sell the real C-41 process, which is not the "developer and blix" you get int he Unicolor and Tetenal kits used in the YT videos.
wait, you can reuse the developer?
With C41 chemicals, yes. Depending on the brand kit you use it can be reused for 8 or more rolls.
4 hour dry?? my film must be special its normally fully dry and straight within an hour
Yes, yours must be the special super fast dry type 😜
@@filmismorefun yeah man no wonder my films so expensive it all makes sense now must be that new 6 layer in my film that i heard about
where do you buy those bottles?
I got them from bh photo, but I've linked them along with the other supplies in the description in Amazon.
@@filmismorefun thanks👍
Do you not rather use distilled water?
Hi Neil. When I mix the chemicals I use filtered water, but not for the rinses. I have tried it both ways and didn't see a difference. Although, depending on the quality of people's water source, that might be a good idea to consider. Thanks for pointing that out 🙂
Can u reused chemicals? If so, How many times
Yes. The kit instructions will have the recommend times that you can reuse the chemicals, but 8-10 times is typical. However, you need to add a little extra time every additional use because the chemicals get exhausted.
@@filmismorefun Helps a lot. Thank you!
No prob 🙂
@@filmismorefun love your content. And yes film is fun and not dead. It's going to make a big comeback in the coming years. With how everyone is into stocks. I can give you this money advise for your work. Buy lots of Kodak stock right now and hold it. TikTok Facebook is making it comeback
Thanks! I'm glad you like the content. As far as Kodak stock, I've followed KODK the last few years, and wouldn't personally allocate any capitol towards it, because I think the photographic film industry as a whole (including Kodak) struggles to be profitable, so any investment is too high of a risk for me personally. 🙂
How many times can you reuse the chemicals?
I think the info paper that comes with it says 8 rolls, but I've reused a batch until about 20 rolls before.
filmismorefun and difference of colors or quality when passing 10 rolls with the re-use.
@@leoroks1917 yes there may be some color shifting as the chemicals get exhausted.
@@filmismorefun God only knows what degraded results you got in the last 10 rolls. You really should not be encouraging folks with such remarks.
@@randallstewart175 @Randall Stewart I know several people who develop with these kits for more runs than recommended consistently. As long as you are using good storing practices and taking note of your results after each development you can absolutely squeeze a few more runs out than listed on the directions.
Why should I stop using the kit, because the directions say 8 times? Nah. I'd rather judge the results after each roll is developed and go from there. If that's just 2 rolls, or 10 rolls it doesn't matter to me.
With that said though, once the chems do start to turn, and I see color shifting I usually end up using the batch for experimental rolls anyways.
This is the reason I sent out the films. Too much going on.
Well, it becomes easier with some practice! I'm sure you could do it. 🙂
How many have a wife that would reject (violently) that stuff in the dishwasher?
Well, maybe don't put it in with the dishes 😋 😁
You dumped on all the dangerous liquid in the rivers, where it will kill fish.
Please don't put your toxic film development stuff in your dishwasher.
C-41 or RA-4 chemistry you need for color prints is not especially toxic. Used bleach-fix contains small amounts of silver salta, but not in big quantities. Old E-2 paper process had a pretty toxic developer, and Cibachrome reversal paper was discontinued due to its chemistry being very toxic to marine life.
@@b6983832 still toxic enough that it doesn't belong in your kitchen, imho. Check the safety data sheets.