As a retired Firefighter I must add a few things. 1) No matter the size of the fire in your house/shop etc, call 911 and get the fire department en-route. Fire will grow exponentially even when you think it is out. They have the knowledge and the equipment to confirm that the fire is truly out. 2) A fire extinguisher may stop a fire, but it may not be out. 3) Find out if your local Fire Department does training for folks on how to use a fire extinguisher. If you have never used one, It can cause the fire to roll over and back towards you if not used properly. 4) If you want real protection for your home or shop invest in good smoke/heat/CO detectors for quick and early warning. To truly protect the home/shop install a fire sprinkler system. (Probably not feasible for most people due to costs) 5) Make sure you properly store all your flammables as well as any towels etc used with paint, stain, and or varnish. 6) Never leave your equipment running when you are not present. Overall and very interesting video and I appreciate you taking the time to show the products and your take on how they work. Keep up the interesting videos!
Also add the fire extinguisher should be checked regularly to ensure it is fully charged. A long time ago in the Marines I was in a hangar full of choppers. A spark from a welder arched onto some cleaning rags and started a fire. I was the first to see it grab a large extinguisher to start mitigation. Another Marine brought a large wheeled Purple PK extinguisher to the far side of the chopper. I was between chopper and wall when my extinguisher ran empty. The Purple PK drafted over and I passed out. Fortunately a Gunny saw it all and grabbed my collar before I collapsed. It can happen fast folks check your gear someone else’s life may depend on it. I was ok and avoided the destruction of millions of dollars of choppers. No hero, all in a days work. 😎
My wife and I installed fire sprinklers throughout our home some fifteen years ago. Not necessarily to code, not inspected, but I didn't care. I went ahead and did it, using proper commercial components and my experience as a building systems specialist. The plumbing is 3/4" Pex tubing, and a flow switch activates an exterior fire alarm bell. A very, very loud bell. Fire sprinklers and their application in residential construction is not rocket science but just about everyone thinks it is.
If you have seen Holmes on Homes (Canada HGTV) Mike Holmes insists on a “Pink” coat fire resistant wood when repairing or renovating a house. But uses a “Blue” wood that mold resistant in lower levels. The pink wood, like 2X4 is cut to length, sometimes you will see them paint the cut end. The used it to build a divider wall in a duplex in case the uninhabited house next door caught on fire. It’s not fireproof but gives the homeowner more time to get out. Will a bad flood hit Alberta 2001, an area flooded 5-6’ deep. A house a “Holmes” approved contractor built showed the basement and pointed out structure and walls did not absorb as much water, dried to under 15% quicker and “I-beam Wood” floor members did not buckle or lift. While a furnace, water heater & electrical in the lower level had to be replaced but was 4 weeks quicker, $20k less in repairs. Impressive video and product. Thanks kindly for the info. Fires are anyone’s worst day!
@@BitnerBuilt After I posted my comment, 4 or 5 videos below yours was an advertisement application video for the “pink” seal fire retardant they sell in Canada. On ceilings, by code, certain codes require a fire resistant coating to be sprayed like wall penetrations foamed with “Red” fire stop as well!
Interesting video/ demonstration. A couple of important considerations with fire extinguishers (in addition to having the proper ABC rating that you mentioned): 1. Be sure to check it regularly to make sure it is charged and ready to go when you need it, and 2. Place/ hang the extinguisher next to an exit from the space. That way, if you go to get it due to a fire and then turn around to see that the fire has spread beyond what the extinguisher can handle or what you are comfortable trying to deal with, you can escape and be safe/ able to call the fire department
Great points on the extinguisher placement. I keep one mounted on the door and one at the other end of the shop. That way if the fire is between me and the door I have a fighting chance to get out.
Is it me or is this deja vu? You pulled the original in between my view and comment. I was confused - which is very easy. 7K subs!! Congratulations. You're working at being the Hardest Working Maker on UA-cam. Keep up the relevant and interesting content. We all enjoy it.
If you're using an "automatic" system with something like a 3D printer or CNC (something with sensitive electronics), you might want to take a look at the smaller BlazeCut T-series fire suppression systems (larger ones are more intended for vehicles and industrial applications). More expensive, yes. But also specifically listed as non-conductive and non-corrosive, so should not destroy any of the electronic components (control boards, etc).
Something else you may look into is using CO2 extinguisher for the electronics. It should not cause issues with the components like regular extinguishing agents do. If you have an opening in the enclosure that you could open and then discharge the CO2 extinguisher into the enclosure it should work very well. The CO2 extinguishers are the choice for mail boxes for the same reasons. It works well in an enclosed space and will cause minimal damage from the extinguishing agent.
Thank you for making a safety video on a topic that impacts all of us because we use a number of flammable/combustable products and even having storing these products should be something we should be well informed on. I've been searching the web for DIY options for storing flammable/combustable aside from the expensive flammable cabinets. I wondered if buying a metal storage unit would be a better solution than having flammable/combustable products in my garage shop. There are very few videos about this topic thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Yea especially for storing you should look at the metal options. Recently I received the xTool s1 and then found that xTool actually has a co2 fire suppression system they sell, just bought one, interesting thing is it can be used in other enclosures as well (depending on the model you get) I will be checking that out too soon in a video!
Everyone overlooks the simple pressurized water can. It will work way better on a class a fire in a wood shop. It also is not getting the very corrosive powder on everything. Truck companies take these into burning buildings they work that well.
The delay of the Jogoswall makes sense to me, given that the normal ambient temperature is pretty hot under the hood of a car. And I'm assuming it's not supposed to trigger if your engine is just overheating...only when it's actually on fire, right? So it's got to tolerate quite a lot of heat before going off.
I wouldn't use the Jogoswall in a container filled with wood because of the possibility of flair up. Depending on the size of the fire and the enclosure, I can see almost a backdraft type scenario once you open the enclosure, just as in the video how quickly the fire re-ignited once you took one side of the plexiglass off. I would stick one inside a metal cabinet especially the fireproof cabinets where you should store solvents, stains etc.
I agree on the metal cabinet, but when you’re talking about some thing larger like my CNC machine, those cabinets are twice as much as the machine itself so you see everybody making it out of plywood, I was trying to introduce a few extra things to be able to at least make those plywood enclosures “some” protections. Personally, I like the spray.
I posted it Sunday morning on a holiday weekend so no one was watching it, figured I’d pull it and repost on a Tuesday workday when everybody’s watching UA-cam instead of doing their work 😅 (per what my analytics show)
I have an idea of building a laser enclosure and then covering the inside with sheet metal such as duct work. I believe it would severely hinder the ability of the enclosure to burning from the inside. Not sure if anyone had this idea.
Good thinking, first thing that comes to mind though is when the fire hits the metal that metals going to get crazy hot too and transfer it to the wood on the other side no?
@@BitnerBuilt I suppose. But it’s a lot harder to ruin if there is a flair up. It would need to get super hot for a long time before it became completely trashed.
@@pazmaniaoh6341 what about lining the inside of a Durock instead, that’s fireproof and doesn’t transfer heat because it’s concrete. That’s the sheet good they put inside bathrooms instead of drywall. Drywall‘s also something that can be used to. It’s not as fireproof, but it is fire resistant and delays spread as the gypsum inside heats up it releases steam.
You know Bitner there are a lot more folks getting into the CNC, engraver opprty space. I can envision a well done video(s) creating fire resistant, fire proof enclosures. Especially as most are either inside a home or garage.
The master flame can be mixed with paint and is sold in large 5gal quantities, unsure if you can just spray apply it directly to an already painted surface as it needs to absorb it. I would assume that’s the same for any of them so you might need to add a coat of paint to apply
I must say, I'm impressed with the performance of the fire retardant spray, but I wonder whether it emits any harmful gasses when exposed to flames? I mean, sure, it stops a material from breaking into open flame, but if exposed to open flame, will it emit toxic fumes that will kill you and/or your pets? For that matter, if your dog or kid chews on a piece of furniture treated with that stuff, will they end up in a hospital?
well it does state on their packaging and website info "Non-Toxic, Eco-Friendly -NO PBDE's or Toxins" I went on their website and they have tons of posted compliance papers and testing results. On the safety section it states "No components are believed to be hazardous or listed in the NIOSH Recommendations for Occupational Safety and Health Standards, 1988, or are listed as hazardous by SARA, CERCLA, or RCRA. No OSHA PEL’s are established for any of the other ingredients. IMO Hazard Class and Number: Non Hazardous UN Number: Not applicable US DOT Hazard Class: Not regulated by DOT It also states : "Toxicity: in accordance with U.S. EPA Office of Pollution Prevention and Toxins, criteria for ranking the acute toxicity of chemicals, Master Flame is considered to be of low concern. SECTION 10: STABILITY AND REACTIVITY Flash Point: Negligible Vapor Pressure (mm Hg): Same as water. Specific Gravity: 1.09 @ 60° F. Carcinogenity NTP? No. IARC? No. OSHA Regulated? No. Routes of Entry Inhalation: Yes. Skin: Yes. Ingestion: Yes. Signs and Symptoms of Exposure Skin: Negligible Hazard. Not a primary skin irritant. Eyes: not a primary ocular irritant. Inhalation: Negligible. Ingestion: Hazard is low." Hope that helps!
@@BitnerBuilt Just as an FYI, they said that the chemicals used to treat clothing, including many of the firefighters uniforms and gear was safe. Now Firefighters are dying of cancer directly linked to those chemicals. What is in the bottle is not the same chemicals, but you never know what may be found out in the future with use.
Yes. There may be flame present from another source, but the treated surface will resist catching fire, and go out quickly when an external flame source is extinguished or removed. Good stuff. I ordered two cans a couple minutes ago. Thanks for the video and information. I’ve got a wood workshop to spray.
As a retired Firefighter I must add a few things. 1) No matter the size of the fire in your house/shop etc, call 911 and get the fire department en-route. Fire will grow exponentially even when you think it is out. They have the knowledge and the equipment to confirm that the fire is truly out. 2) A fire extinguisher may stop a fire, but it may not be out. 3) Find out if your local Fire Department does training for folks on how to use a fire extinguisher. If you have never used one, It can cause the fire to roll over and back towards you if not used properly. 4) If you want real protection for your home or shop invest in good smoke/heat/CO detectors for quick and early warning. To truly protect the home/shop install a fire sprinkler system. (Probably not feasible for most people due to costs) 5) Make sure you properly store all your flammables as well as any towels etc used with paint, stain, and or varnish. 6) Never leave your equipment running when you are not present. Overall and very interesting video and I appreciate you taking the time to show the products and your take on how they work. Keep up the interesting videos!
Thanks scruffy and thanks for the tips!
You know I was disappointed I had contacted my local dept twice to see if I could interview someone for the video as well but no one would reply to me
@@BitnerBuilt That is sad
Also add the fire extinguisher should be checked regularly to ensure it is fully charged. A long time ago in the Marines I was in a hangar full of choppers. A spark from a welder arched onto some cleaning rags and started a fire. I was the first to see it grab a large extinguisher to start mitigation. Another Marine brought a large wheeled Purple PK extinguisher to the far side of the chopper. I was between chopper and wall when my extinguisher ran empty. The Purple PK drafted over and I passed out. Fortunately a Gunny saw it all and grabbed my collar before I collapsed. It can happen fast folks check your gear someone else’s life may depend on it. I was ok and avoided the destruction of millions of dollars of choppers. No hero, all in a days work. 😎
My wife and I installed fire sprinklers throughout our home some fifteen years ago. Not necessarily to code, not inspected, but I didn't care. I went ahead and did it, using proper commercial components and my experience as a building systems specialist. The plumbing is 3/4" Pex tubing, and a flow switch activates an exterior fire alarm bell. A very, very loud bell. Fire sprinklers and their application in residential construction is not rocket science but just about everyone thinks it is.
If you have seen Holmes on Homes (Canada HGTV) Mike Holmes insists on a “Pink” coat fire resistant wood when repairing or renovating a house. But uses a “Blue” wood that mold resistant in lower levels. The pink wood, like 2X4 is cut to length, sometimes you will see them paint the cut end. The used it to build a divider wall in a duplex in case the uninhabited house next door caught on fire. It’s not fireproof but gives the homeowner more time to get out. Will a bad flood hit Alberta 2001, an area flooded 5-6’ deep. A house a “Holmes” approved contractor built showed the basement and pointed out structure and walls did not absorb as much water, dried to under 15% quicker and “I-beam Wood” floor members did not buckle or lift. While a furnace, water heater & electrical in the lower level had to be replaced but was 4 weeks quicker, $20k less in repairs. Impressive video and product. Thanks kindly for the info. Fires are anyone’s worst day!
Thanks for all the info! Yea fires are the worst, I’m all for anything that will help people have more time to get out or put out!
@@BitnerBuilt After I posted my comment, 4 or 5 videos below yours was an advertisement application video for the “pink” seal fire retardant they sell in Canada. On ceilings, by code, certain codes require a fire resistant coating to be sprayed like wall penetrations foamed with “Red” fire stop as well!
Interesting video/ demonstration. A couple of important considerations with fire extinguishers (in addition to having the proper ABC rating that you mentioned): 1. Be sure to check it regularly to make sure it is charged and ready to go when you need it, and 2. Place/ hang the extinguisher next to an exit from the space. That way, if you go to get it due to a fire and then turn around to see that the fire has spread beyond what the extinguisher can handle or what you are comfortable trying to deal with, you can escape and be safe/ able to call the fire department
Yep great advise!
Great points on the extinguisher placement. I keep one mounted on the door and one at the other end of the shop. That way if the fire is between me and the door I have a fighting chance to get out.
Is it me or is this deja vu? You pulled the original in between my view and comment. I was confused - which is very easy. 7K subs!! Congratulations. You're working at being the Hardest Working Maker on UA-cam. Keep up the relevant and interesting content. We all enjoy it.
Thanks Tony lol
If you're using an "automatic" system with something like a 3D printer or CNC (something with sensitive electronics), you might want to take a look at the smaller BlazeCut T-series fire suppression systems (larger ones are more intended for vehicles and industrial applications). More expensive, yes. But also specifically listed as non-conductive and non-corrosive, so should not destroy any of the electronic components (control boards, etc).
Ahh cool I will take a look!
Something else you may look into is using CO2 extinguisher for the electronics. It should not cause issues with the components like regular extinguishing agents do. If you have an opening in the enclosure that you could open and then discharge the CO2 extinguisher into the enclosure it should work very well. The CO2 extinguishers are the choice for mail boxes for the same reasons. It works well in an enclosed space and will cause minimal damage from the extinguishing agent.
That reminds me, I need to replace our extinguisher.
I like the Master Flame. I should get some for the shop.👍
Yea keep those babies updated, we work in tinder boxes 🔥
Thank you for making a safety video on a topic that impacts all of us because we use a number of flammable/combustable products and even having storing these products should be something we should be well informed on. I've been searching the web for DIY options for storing flammable/combustable aside from the expensive flammable cabinets. I wondered if buying a metal storage unit would be a better solution than having flammable/combustable products in my garage shop. There are very few videos about this topic thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Yea especially for storing you should look at the metal options. Recently I received the xTool s1 and then found that xTool actually has a co2 fire suppression system they sell, just bought one, interesting thing is it can be used in other enclosures as well (depending on the model you get) I will be checking that out too soon in a video!
Everyone overlooks the simple pressurized water can. It will work way better on a class a fire in a wood shop. It also is not getting the very corrosive powder on everything. Truck companies take these into burning buildings they work that well.
Very good tip!
The delay of the Jogoswall makes sense to me, given that the normal ambient temperature is pretty hot under the hood of a car. And I'm assuming it's not supposed to trigger if your engine is just overheating...only when it's actually on fire, right? So it's got to tolerate quite a lot of heat before going off.
Yes I’d agree as I said I’m not using it for it’s intended purpose so I don’t fault it at all. The spray however is the one I’m excited about
I wouldn't use the Jogoswall in a container filled with wood because of the possibility of flair up. Depending on the size of the fire and the enclosure, I can see almost a backdraft type scenario once you open the enclosure, just as in the video how quickly the fire re-ignited once you took one side of the plexiglass off.
I would stick one inside a metal cabinet especially the fireproof cabinets where you should store solvents, stains etc.
I agree on the metal cabinet, but when you’re talking about some thing larger like my CNC machine, those cabinets are twice as much as the machine itself so you see everybody making it out of plywood, I was trying to introduce a few extra things to be able to at least make those plywood enclosures “some” protections. Personally, I like the spray.
Awesome video! I wonder how well the products would work with a dust collector running?
Good thought might need another video 😅
I would love to see it! Just be careful and prepared for the worst. I bet the shop vac would not do so well 😂
@@Charlie-xr5lg lol maybe a cheapo with a really long hose, wonder if Home Depot would accept that return 😂😂
I still have a burning desire. LOL What happen to the first video? Thanks
I posted it Sunday morning on a holiday weekend so no one was watching it, figured I’d pull it and repost on a Tuesday workday when everybody’s watching UA-cam instead of doing their work 😅 (per what my analytics show)
I have an idea of building a laser enclosure and then covering the inside with sheet metal such as duct work. I believe it would severely hinder the ability of the enclosure to burning from the inside. Not sure if anyone had this idea.
Good thinking, first thing that comes to mind though is when the fire hits the metal that metals going to get crazy hot too and transfer it to the wood on the other side no?
@@BitnerBuilt I suppose. But it’s a lot harder to ruin if there is a flair up. It would need to get super hot for a long time before it became completely trashed.
@@pazmaniaoh6341 what about lining the inside of a Durock instead, that’s fireproof and doesn’t transfer heat because it’s concrete. That’s the sheet good they put inside bathrooms instead of drywall. Drywall‘s also something that can be used to. It’s not as fireproof, but it is fire resistant and delays spread as the gypsum inside heats up it releases steam.
@@BitnerBuilt that’s an even better idea. Cutting it with an abrasive blade and circular saw would make construction a ton easier.
You know Bitner there are a lot more folks getting into the CNC, engraver opprty space. I can envision a well done video(s) creating fire resistant, fire proof enclosures. Especially as most are either inside a home or garage.
I'm looking for a fire resistant coating to spray on (painted) wood house. Anyone have any ideas?
The master flame can be mixed with paint and is sold in large 5gal quantities, unsure if you can just spray apply it directly to an already painted surface as it needs to absorb it. I would assume that’s the same for any of them so you might need to add a coat of paint to apply
I'll look into it. Thanks for info.@@BitnerBuilt
I must say, I'm impressed with the performance of the fire retardant spray, but I wonder whether it emits any harmful gasses when exposed to flames? I mean, sure, it stops a material from breaking into open flame, but if exposed to open flame, will it emit toxic fumes that will kill you and/or your pets?
For that matter, if your dog or kid chews on a piece of furniture treated with that stuff, will they end up in a hospital?
well it does state on their packaging and website info "Non-Toxic, Eco-Friendly -NO PBDE's or Toxins" I went on their website and they have tons of posted compliance papers and testing results. On the safety section it states "No components are believed to be hazardous or listed in the NIOSH Recommendations for Occupational Safety and Health Standards, 1988, or are listed as hazardous by SARA, CERCLA, or RCRA. No OSHA PEL’s are established
for any of the other ingredients.
IMO Hazard Class and Number: Non Hazardous
UN Number: Not applicable
US DOT Hazard Class: Not regulated by DOT
It also states :
"Toxicity: in accordance with U.S. EPA Office of Pollution Prevention and Toxins, criteria for ranking the acute toxicity of chemicals, Master Flame is considered to be of low concern.
SECTION 10: STABILITY AND REACTIVITY
Flash Point: Negligible
Vapor Pressure (mm Hg): Same as water. Specific Gravity: 1.09 @ 60° F.
Carcinogenity
NTP? No. IARC? No. OSHA Regulated? No.
Routes of Entry
Inhalation: Yes. Skin: Yes. Ingestion: Yes.
Signs and Symptoms of Exposure
Skin: Negligible Hazard. Not a primary skin irritant. Eyes: not a primary ocular irritant. Inhalation: Negligible.
Ingestion: Hazard is low."
Hope that helps!
@@BitnerBuilt Just as an FYI, they said that the chemicals used to treat clothing, including many of the firefighters uniforms and gear was safe. Now Firefighters are dying of cancer directly linked to those chemicals. What is in the bottle is not the same chemicals, but you never know what may be found out in the future with use.
Fire Retardant Spray: I think the phrase is “Self Extinguishing”.
🤷that’s what it says on the bottle
Yes. There may be flame present from another source, but the treated surface will resist catching fire, and go out quickly when an external flame source is extinguished or removed.
Good stuff. I ordered two cans a couple minutes ago. Thanks for the video and information. I’ve got a wood workshop to spray.
First
👍