for anyone wondering, Scotch-Brite is just the "Kleenex" of 'abrasive sanding/scouring pads'. from Wikipedia: "The structure of Scotch-Brite pads is created by a sparse unwoven polymer such as cellulose, nylon or spun polypropylene fiber. Products use several variations of hardening and abrasive materials, such as Aluminum oxide (alumina), Titanium dioxide and resins.[1] Although the base polymers may be considered benignly soft, the composition with other materials greatly enhances their abrasive powers; to the extent that a heavy-duty Scotch-Brite pad (which contains both Aluminum oxide and Titanium oxide) will actually scratch glass."
As a career dental technician, retired, I have finished and polished a LOT of gold. With 38 years of experience, nI have a couple of suggestions you might consider. One is to use 3/4" or7/8" buffing wheels (What you have are buffing wheels). If you used quite a few of them, get them at a dental supply house. They will be cheaper, by far, than Dremel's products. The other suggestion is something tha I like to think that I pioneered, sice gold get extremelyy when being polished, I use a pair of old hemostats instead of my blistered fingers. A tissue will help insulate some of the heat, but the hemos are best. I have used this technique on a pocket clip, myself. I also fount that clips will take the pressure of a small pair of pliars without being marked in any way, even anodized one. It's likely that you can find those wheels as well as other polishing tools online from a dental supply house. Henry Schein is one of the largest. Take care, Ron
Update: After searchimg the internets for buffing wheels, I had little luck. You might ask your dentist to let you order some from his usual supplier's catalog and place the order for you. Or..just .forget what I suggested. entirely! Lol.
Very good suggestion - brand name products are almost always more costly. Congratulations on your retirement, friend - after thirty-eight years you've more than deserved it!
actually, Scotch-Brite is just the "Kleenex" of 'abrasive sanding/scouring pads'. from Wikipedia: "The structure of Scotch-Brite pads is created by a sparse unwoven polymer such as cellulose, nylon or spun polypropylene fiber. Products use several variations of hardening and abrasive materials, such as Aluminum oxide (alumina), Titanium dioxide and resins.[1] Although the base polymers may be considered benignly soft, the composition with other materials greatly enhances their abrasive powers; to the extent that a heavy-duty Scotch-Brite pad (which contains both Aluminum oxide and Titanium oxide) will actually scratch glass."
Idea for the next. How to acid/stone wash. People always ask me how i do it and i could never explain it and the ratios And times. A quick video on it and i could send them a link to your channel. Might bring in new viewers. Oh also i msgd you on IG
Heck yeah, I thought I was thee only one using these pads and a rotary tool on knives lol I have used regular alumina based green compound on one and strop withit for a ridiculous sticky edge I cannot get even using 1micron diamond spray...
Also I recommend buying pikal metal polish from japan amazing stuff and rockstead knives actually recommends using it on stretched denim over wood to strop their amazing edges back to stupid sharp so you know it is good stuff indeed lol
Lower speed is better for polishing, 1750 rpm. At least I’ve always found especially for blades. You don’t want to over heat. Plus if it gets hot it’s good to water dip to cool it before it gets too hot or you’ll compromise the edge
id like to see a vid on how to heat ano. or just vids on modding knives in general. or like what tools are the most important to buy first. I've been trying to get into modding knives. I mod my own knives. and I have a blow torch and dremal and a lot of sandpaper. but I don't know what I should buy next. like maybe a sandblaster or a stonewasher idk
Thanks for the feedback! I'll do an ano vid sometime soon, and probably more about my processes in the future. Always trying to refine the process myself.
Does flitz polish work on a knife with black coating? I have a knife similar to yours but it has a black coating on the blade and maby using flitz polish paste will remove the black coating??
I picked up a "Very Used" Para3 in Maxamet... The blade is extensively stained in an unattractive way. My plan is to buff out the staining and force a uniform patina. Have you tried buffing out any of the high hardness rust prone super steel? Maxamet, K390 etc? Thanks For the video : )
Another great video, I really like what your channel has become. I bought Brasso because I couldn't find Flitz in Wally. I tried it on my felt pads Ann's it didn't seem to do much of anything. Not sure if it was the polish, the pad, or just me that was the problem. I'll have to re-analyze the situation.
You’re going to want to buff the scratches out first, or you’ll just polish them. Use a cutting compound (black or brown) with a felt stitched wheel and go down from there to a white compound with a super light muslin type wheel
Hi, hope all is well with you too. Amazon is a great place to get it and it's available on a lot of big box retailer sites, but they do have their own website as well.
@@JTsKnifeLife can I use Flitz on a brand new knife with Mirror Finish (Yanagiba) ?? Will the Flitz compound change the Mirror Finish look or scratch em??
@@Reza-nz2re It depends on how you use it. It shouldn't scratch anything, but if you use it with a high speed rotary tool or any other equipment it will definitely alter the finish.
Awesome video man, thanks for the info! Do you happen to know if copper can be heat anodized? I'm working on a Brous Blades Battlebox edition, I've already polished it to a mirror finish n wanted to try heat ano'ing it. Any info is greatly appreciated!
Just a top to speed up your polishing from a dental technician. Try using a 7/8” felt wheel, it will still get into most areas. You will build up quickly, but insulating Your fingers with a shop towel or a paper towel helps. You might also consider a large hemostat instead of your fingers. Finally, try wrapping some electrical or duct tape over the jaws of a not to tightly adjusted vice-grip. PS; A propane torch should be the perfect solution. Cheap and stays lit without a trigger.
Thanks a lot for the feedback, I'll test some of that stuff out. Embarassingly, my dremel torch has a "stay on" switch. Just took me a year to find it.
Ron L At least a year hahaha. I'm not one for instruction booklets and I was too dumb to imagine the plastic switch right in front of my face could have a purpose.
I firmly believe that advice from people who "like" their own comments is completely invalid and not worth following. Otherwise I would have totally repented and praised Him.
@@Believer1427 Correct. What I'm saying is that your comment basically damned me to hell. Sorry that your plans backfired this time, hopefully you get the next one.
@@JTsKnifeLife I’m just warning people because I care about them and so does Jesus. We are all born sinners and unless we repent then we are headed to hell. Everyone gets to make a choice. My comment didn’t damn anyone to hell
@Believer besides using god, heaven, prayer, or any subject pertaining to the aforementioned topics, why do you care about anyone? Also, why would we want to follow someone who say pray to me, give everything to me, me me me me, or else you will be burned alive in a firey pit of molten lava forever. That sounds like something a narcissist would say or a cult leader.
you can lock the torch with the blue cursor on the left side
Thank you for that, I've been a complete idiot for a while now it seems. That makes things way easier.
Lmao i knew you could lick it with that
@@ThunderingDiesel :)
@@patrickglaser1560 thanks I would have never thought of that
Great vid and your right it's so much fun and your able to turn an ordinary blade into a 1 off custom
You know it bud. Always great to make it your own!
Legend has it your still replying to us diy'ers
Yes I am. 👍 Either here or via email anytime. Jtsknifelife@gmail.com
for anyone wondering, Scotch-Brite is just the "Kleenex" of 'abrasive sanding/scouring pads'.
from Wikipedia:
"The structure of Scotch-Brite pads is created by a sparse unwoven polymer such as cellulose, nylon or spun polypropylene fiber. Products use several variations of hardening and abrasive materials, such as Aluminum oxide (alumina), Titanium dioxide and resins.[1] Although the base polymers may be considered benignly soft, the composition with other materials greatly enhances their abrasive powers; to the extent that a heavy-duty Scotch-Brite pad (which contains both Aluminum oxide and Titanium oxide) will actually scratch glass."
Nice! Purchased me a Dremel last week and a tube of Flitz today, gonna polish my pocket knife:)
Awesome, have fun!
Oooo, shiny. Nice job on the tutorial. I would love to learn about anodizing.
For sure, I'll do a video on that soon too!
As a career dental technician, retired, I have finished and polished a LOT of gold. With 38 years of experience, nI have a couple of suggestions you might consider. One is to use 3/4" or7/8" buffing wheels (What you have are buffing wheels). If you used quite a few of them, get them at a dental supply house. They will be cheaper, by far, than Dremel's products. The other suggestion is something tha I like to think that I pioneered, sice gold get extremelyy when being polished, I use a pair of old hemostats instead of my blistered fingers. A tissue will help insulate some of the heat, but the hemos are best. I have used this technique on a pocket clip, myself. I also fount that clips will take the pressure of a small pair of pliars without being marked in any way, even anodized one.
It's likely that you can find those wheels as well as other polishing tools online from a dental supply house. Henry
Schein is one of the largest. Take care, Ron
Update: After searchimg the internets for buffing wheels, I had little luck. You might ask your dentist to let you order some from his usual supplier's catalog and place the order for you. Or..just .forget what I suggested. entirely! Lol.
But is dental gold really comparable to knife steel?
Very good suggestion - brand name products are almost always more costly.
Congratulations on your retirement, friend - after thirty-eight years you've more than deserved it!
Awesome awesome video! I need to go pick up some of those sanding pads and some Flitz and get to work on my chill
Definitely, that would be sweet!
It’s called “Scotch Brite”
I know this vid is old, but the Red brown sanding pads you were referring to are called "scotchbright"
actually, Scotch-Brite is just the "Kleenex" of 'abrasive sanding/scouring pads'.
from Wikipedia:
"The structure of Scotch-Brite pads is created by a sparse unwoven polymer such as cellulose, nylon or spun polypropylene fiber. Products use several variations of hardening and abrasive materials, such as Aluminum oxide (alumina), Titanium dioxide and resins.[1] Although the base polymers may be considered benignly soft, the composition with other materials greatly enhances their abrasive powers; to the extent that a heavy-duty Scotch-Brite pad (which contains both Aluminum oxide and Titanium oxide) will actually scratch glass."
dude sounds just like the guy (I rock )From ready player one
Hahaha I've heard that before. In some videos it's pretty darn similar.
Idea for the next. How to acid/stone wash. People always ask me how i do it and i could never explain it and the ratios
And times. A quick video on it and i could send them a link to your channel. Might bring in new viewers. Oh also i msgd you on IG
Good idea bud, definitely something for the future!
Heck yeah, I thought I was thee only one using these pads and a rotary tool on knives lol I have used regular alumina based green compound on one and strop withit for a ridiculous sticky edge I cannot get even using 1micron diamond spray...
Also I recommend buying pikal metal polish from japan amazing stuff and rockstead knives actually recommends using it on stretched denim over wood to strop their amazing edges back to stupid sharp so you know it is good stuff indeed lol
Hmmmm interesting. Thanks for the recommendation!
Lower speed is better for polishing, 1750 rpm. At least I’ve always found especially for blades. You don’t want to over heat. Plus if it gets hot it’s good to water dip to cool it before it gets too hot or you’ll compromise the edge
I enjoyed this video mate and would love to see you nuke something small as I have no idea what you can do.atb paddy.
Will do, I'll be doing one soon my friend. Thanks for watching, talk to you soon!
So basically I need a dremel and polish and I can have a mirror finish on my blade?
Yep, it'll take a while to get it looking professional quality, but you can get pretty darn close.
id like to see a vid on how to heat ano. or just vids on modding knives in general. or like what tools are the most important to buy first. I've been trying to get into modding knives. I mod my own knives. and I have a blow torch and dremal and a lot of sandpaper. but I don't know what I should buy next. like maybe a sandblaster or a stonewasher idk
Thanks for the feedback! I'll do an ano vid sometime soon, and probably more about my processes in the future. Always trying to refine the process myself.
Does flitz polish work on a knife with black coating? I have a knife similar to yours but it has a black coating on the blade and maby using flitz polish paste will remove the black coating??
Dumb question? Can you use toothpaste??? I've seen it on UA-cam? Any reply appreciated cheers from Australia just subbed.nice work 🙂👍👍👍
I picked up a "Very Used" Para3 in Maxamet... The blade is extensively stained in an unattractive way. My plan is to buff out the staining and force a uniform patina. Have you tried buffing out any of the high hardness rust prone super steel? Maxamet, K390 etc? Thanks For the video : )
I know the people who have lose the stonewash if there is one. I haven't tried it myself
Just looked up Flitz in Australia (Amazon) $27 for the small tube???
the blue doal on the left side of the torch (pointed away from you) is the lock. while the button is held dow push the dial right
a little late comment but, do you think this process could be done easy with just sand paper?
No just get a dremal I’ve tried u wont get anything good out of sand paper unless u can do it as fast as the dremal and as evenly
Another great video, I really like what your channel has become. I bought Brasso because I couldn't find Flitz in Wally. I tried it on my felt pads Ann's it didn't seem to do much of anything. Not sure if it was the polish, the pad, or just me that was the problem. I'll have to re-analyze the situation.
The Flitz is more of a compound than a liquid, so I don't think that any other type of hand polish will work quite the same.
Jesus firstly turn down the damn speed to medium
Second buy mothers polishing compound comes in a red/white tin container
And SLOWLY move the tool
No, no, and no.
Thank you very much for watching and commenting on my video!
The Dremel 3000 does a good job to remove the rust and black blemishes on my black carbon steel kukri
Great tutorial. I have some knifes with scratches that I would like to finish.
Thanks a lot, hopefully this will help!
You’re going to want to buff the scratches out first, or you’ll just polish them. Use a cutting compound (black or brown) with a felt stitched wheel and go down from there to a white compound with a super light muslin type wheel
Hi hope all is well. I have a simple question about where can I purchase the Flitz? Meaning sir what website?
Hi, hope all is well with you too. Amazon is a great place to get it and it's available on a lot of big box retailer sites, but they do have their own website as well.
Thanks man great info as always
I appreciate it man, thank you!
I have the same dremel torch.. the lock on button slides on the side to keep it lit.lol I see yours too
Yeah, I figured that out after a year or two with it hahahaha
Flitz vs KOYO blue for mirror finish knife?? Anyone try them both?
I only ever used Flitz myself.
@@JTsKnifeLife can I use Flitz on a brand new knife with Mirror Finish (Yanagiba) ?? Will the Flitz compound change the Mirror Finish look or scratch em??
@@Reza-nz2re It depends on how you use it. It shouldn't scratch anything, but if you use it with a high speed rotary tool or any other equipment it will definitely alter the finish.
the clip on your left of the torch is the click lock
Thanks man, stupid of me not to realize that.
Awesome video man, thanks for the info! Do you happen to know if copper can be heat anodized? I'm working on a Brous Blades Battlebox edition, I've already polished it to a mirror finish n wanted to try heat ano'ing it. Any info is greatly appreciated!
I honestly have no idea what would happen with copper. Find some scrap pieces and experiment maybe. And let me know!
Just a top to speed up your polishing from a dental technician. Try using a 7/8” felt wheel, it will still get into most areas. You will build up quickly, but insulating
Your fingers with a shop towel or a paper towel helps. You might also consider a large hemostat instead of your fingers. Finally, try wrapping some electrical or duct tape over the jaws of a not to tightly adjusted vice-grip.
PS; A propane torch should be the perfect solution. Cheap and stays lit without a trigger.
Thanks a lot for the feedback, I'll test some of that stuff out. Embarassingly, my dremel torch has a "stay on" switch. Just took me a year to find it.
JT's Knife Life Only a year?
Ron L At least a year hahaha. I'm not one for instruction booklets and I was too dumb to imagine the plastic switch right in front of my face could have a purpose.
Is the polish food safe? Can I cut food safely after I polish my knife?
My understanding is that it is not food safe.
Can you wash your knife before you use it on food. Then YES😂
lol not sure if you'll respond, but are those felt pad or cotton?
They're felt I believe👍
@@JTsKnifeLife thank you!
Anytime.
Believe in Jesus Christ and be saved from hell before it’s eternally too late if you haven’t already. May God bless
I firmly believe that advice from people who "like" their own comments is completely invalid and not worth following. Otherwise I would have totally repented and praised Him.
@@JTsKnifeLife so you are not going to praise the one who died for you on a cross to save you from hell just because someone like their own comment?
@@Believer1427 Correct. What I'm saying is that your comment basically damned me to hell. Sorry that your plans backfired this time, hopefully you get the next one.
@@JTsKnifeLife I’m just warning people because I care about them and so does Jesus. We are all born sinners and unless we repent then we are headed to hell. Everyone gets to make a choice. My comment didn’t damn anyone to hell
@Believer besides using god, heaven, prayer, or any subject pertaining to the aforementioned topics, why do you care about anyone?
Also, why would we want to follow someone who say pray to me, give everything to me, me me me me, or else you will be burned alive in a firey pit of molten lava forever. That sounds like something a narcissist would say or a cult leader.
2:26 can I use steel wool?
You can, yeah. But it might not create the kind of finish that you want, it might be scratchy or inconsistent.
Thanks JT! I gotta get me a Dremel tool. Hey, you should do an Anno demo video.
Haha I keep hearing that! One will be coming up soon!
2:40 its called copper lmao
No, it isn't copper.