As a Cable-Hauler Logging Contractor, I have a couple of tips; one has already been mentioned about how to attach ‘Bulldog’ clamps so you don’t compromise the strength of your cables, the second is that the tension on your cables increases exponentially the shorter the chord of your rope. The rule of thumb is to never have less than 10% deflection in your cable. You will have noticed when you swung on the cable as a test, the smaller tower flexed noticeably towards the other. Your 100kg weight could easily translate to over 1000kg tension in the cable! Imagine if you have 10 or 15 people standing on the bridge. There is more than enough strength in the cables, but the tower may need bracing.
I saw the tower sway slightly. You're right, the materials are strong and looks beefy, but the forces pulling the towers together when on the bridge would be multiplied to a lot of tension with 10 people that high up. May consider bracing, and maybe some bushings for the cables touching wood. Otherwise, the bridge looks great!
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
Hello Mr Moth, Once upon a time I used to rig scaffolding in NYC. cables are deceptive you won’t know they’re loose until it’s too late. Please heed my warning use at least three cable clamps in an alternating pattern per each connection plus a thimble on each bend. Your children are more valuable than the cost of these safety measures!
I agree to needing 3 cable clamps, but not to alternate directions. I was always told “you never saddle a dead horse” so the saddle sits on the side of the rope with the action, and the bare end is held in place with the U-bolt.
3/8” cable does require 3 clips. First one tight up against the thimble and the next 2 spaced approx 10x the diam of the cable away from the first (3 to 4”).
Hey brother quick tip. Block out the railing posts. Same when building a deck. Over time the bolt hole can grow and loosen, but blocking is a rock solid backup and makes a crazy difference. Especially important with the load these posts will be incuring. Amazing job thus far!
this is an awesome project but I was going to say this very thing. super simple to add in but you def need to do this. i believe it's in the deck building code attachment of normal PT railing posts to do this to ensure there is no deflection of the post when a 200lb point load at the top is applied at the top. normally keeps a full grown human from falling through a railing but in this case it's stopping the moment force from the handrail cables.
@@matthewmarello1347 I and probably some others mentioned in his first video about not putting a beam accross the last posts before the cantilevered section and since I have seen at least a carrigebolted 2x10 so I think he is at least seeing and reacting to the comments. I don't really need a reply, i just want to put up some non judgemental safety reminders.
Pretty cool Fort for your kid. As mentioned here before, those of us who work cables for a living see a few things that you might consider improving, lets call them “best practices”. Where you made your eyes on the ends of your cables, orientation of those cable clamps matter, use 3 clamps per eye on anything over 1/2” cable, space the clamps 6 rope diameters apart. And a thimble lining the eye wouldn’t hurt. That cable is plenty strong but the steeper the angle or “flatter” your cable the more lateral force you apply to your towers when you stand on it, consider running cable guy-wires to transfer that lateral force down to your footings if possible.
SUPER IMPORTANT TIP ! When fitting the rope clicks, never put the “U” bolt over the “live” end of the rope, the cable that is going to the bridge) the unbolt goes on the “dead” end and the “saddle” goes on the “live” end (the cable that is going to the bridge). Otherwise they can slip and fail. 👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
@@artpalmer9547 Came here to say that. I think I saw at least one dead horse saddled. Interestingly I found this out when I went to a NASCAR race at Daytona with a maintenance guy at work. He pointed out the cables on the catch fence were saddling the dead horse.
"..And those are the stairs that Ivor cut." He sounds proud of his contribution and he definitely should be! Love seeing him get in on these projects, they are so much more special for it.
Amazing build , I love your channel.. All the comments about " Never saddle a dead horse " are 100% true so at the very least you should change them around and if you follow the rule of thumb math for cable clamps each eye you create for a 3/8" rope requires 3 clamps. After looking at the link for the cable clamps you purchased I've noticed that the saddles are smooth , not grooved to follow the stranded lay of the wire rope you've purchased. If your going through the trouble of taking them off I recommend changing them to a brand name like Crosby. Their product , although a lot more expensive is far superior and their manufacture specs only require 2 per termination for a 3/8" rope.
Seriously Jason, this is an awesome project. Iver is going to have the coolest "tree" house around. He's one lucky kid. You're a great dad. You're a great grandson too and yes I know you probably jumped up and down on the bridge before letting Grandma up there. God know I would have done the same if not more. I don't know if you were a boy scout but you earned your eagle scout badge as far as I'm concerned.
Recommendation: You should put some bushings in any of the holes that bear a load of the raw cable. You can already see the holes at the top of the 4x4 posts are rubbing down and wearing from the friction and pressure of the cable. That will increase slop over time, you'll retighten them in a few months, adding more pressure, the same thing will happen again. So if you have 1/2" cable, get some steel pipe with a 1/2" ID and a wall thickness of like a 1/4", drill a hole to fit that in the post and epoxy them into the posts. Then run your cables through the inside of the bushing, you can even grease or oil the ID. That way, the cable is sitting on metal and the weight or tension of the entire bushing is bearing onto lets say an inch of wood, instead of half an inch and won't wear through.
I thought the same thing for all the cable holes. And when I saw the posts, I thought exactly what you said. BUSHINGS. Get some rigid conduit/galvanized, and use conduit bushings.
Thinking the same thing... now that the cables are already installed... maybe they have some that are 1/2 cut so you can place around the cables? I don't know, but that's a darned good idea.
Well... in really hard, daily playground-use. But I think he is building this for his son. There will be some time, there will be some use, but its not going to be used every day, by "a lot of kids", and not for a decade. His son is... 6 ? How long will he use it? Did you still used your local playground at the age of 11? I didnt. So there will be 5 years of use now and then, and a little play, a little wobble just makes it cooler.
I have really enjoyed this excursion from carpentry to civil engineering. If nothing else I hope everyone watching has a better appreciation for how different (yet similar) the disciplines are.
PRolong your cable life with adding thimbles at each of the loop ends. also never saddle a dead horse, in other words the cable clamp saddle goes on the load side of the cable with the u-bolt on the loose end.
I found that bracing the posts is really needed even if you don't have any upper structure. The carriage bolts are strong, but simply lack the distance/spread to create much leverage.
You really should run all your eye bolts all the way to the eye as much as you can. The more the eye is cantilevered away from where it's anchored the more it can be levered on and loosen or bend and/or break. With as much as you have out, running them in will really tension it all up too but you may have to loosen what you've done already to get the extra distance.
Everything is big enough for the weight itself but static loads are different than dynamic and if a large weight were to pull on the cable, the forces on it are different than just holding the weight and they're more susceptible to bending or wallowing out the hole from being wrenched on.
If there was any chance of a lateral load on those (very long) eye bolts I’d say they should be snugged up to their shoulders into the 2x, but In this case the only lateral load they might see if if someone jumped up and hung on them from under the platform. Even still a grown man couldn’t bend them while under tension.
I was wondering about that as well. For the eyebolts that anchor the angled hand rail lines, (which create an upwards force,) I was thinking of putting blocking above the eyebolt to resist upwards torquing on the bolt.
@@JasonPeliwo Yes, I'm sure how this is set up it's fine. I'm talking in general also. Those particular ones have shoulders and are obviously meant to be run all the way up to it for the reasons I mentioned. Some don't have that and it's not as obvious so I pointed it out. He said he needed to do some tweaking and tightening too and that would be the first place to start imo. And regardless of if it will be fine and work in this application as it is or not, it's still good practice to do things the intended way and have even less to worry about. Why not make your weakest links as strong as possible if you can?
@@Nyall That's exactly why you run the eye bolt all the way to the shoulder. So it can't be torqued up as easily which keeps you from needing additional blocking. That's what the shoulder is there to help with. To strengthen the pivot point and give it a wider base to resist being torqued to the side which it relies on the shoulder being against something. If you don't have an eye bolt with a shoulder you should run a nut on all the way then drop a washer on it and cinch everything to that as close to the eye as it will go to create that same shoulder to prevent all the things I mentioned.
You should do radio. You have a relaxing chill tone quality to your voice. Or, audio books. I am jealous of your skills. I am a poet. No one needs poets. But carpenters. People always need carpenters. Great video.
That’s one cunning plan to bring forward any inherited wealth….. 🎉🎉🎉 I demand that we now see more of grandma in speaking parts carrying a current newspaper which would act as a “proof of life” test!!! Poor grandma clearly was coerced into having so much fun and testing out the pacemaker…… 😅 Lucky Iver! Great video and I concur with the bushings and saddle clamps and other stuff comments. ….. the exponential increase in load transference is enormous.
I would not tie the cables to the top of the worts but instead run them through the towers and then diagonally across to the ground with some buried concrete anchor. If you look at some big suspension bridges the part where the cables end is the biggest (by volume) part of the bridge.
Put a piece of steel pipe through the top handles where the cable passes through. It will prevent the wood wearing down over time. Make sure you install the clamps the right direction and I normally use at least 3. Looks pretty good! One trick also is put the u bolt farther down the cable and the next one put it on and slide it toward the loop. This adds tension to the loop as you install it.
Hey man love the videos. Just as Shane Wilson stated change your saddles on your cables there's an old saying out there... " Never saddle a dead horse" Keep up the good work it's looking great
my "abuelita" is 87 years old. but i realized that she would say almost the same that yours did. How cool is that? thousands and thousands of miles away and grandmothers thinks and talks alike, right?
This was amazing and you do a great job of imitating real life structures. Props to you for actually doing the stuff that I always say I'm going to do.... My only criticism would be to put the netting on the inside of the cables. It looks like you maybe attached it to the outside of the bridge... Which could work depending on how it's attached, but inside the cable would be a better failsafe. Awesome job!
awesome work! i would wrap the top metal cable with something as it will become a sharp painful hazard to the hands as it starts to wear. I know this just from the winch on my ATV how I don't even touch the metal cable anymore without gloves.
The netting on the bridge 👍 my brain works overtime wanting safety features. Nursing 20yrs in the Operating Room/ER made me neurotic mess 😂 absolutely beautiful bridge
Careful how you go Jason, , , what with the directing talents of the foreman coming through AND a new budding star in the form of grandma, you may find yourself redundant before you know it! - loving absolutely everything about this build , great job 👍
Dang, I really wish my grandma was still here to help me out like that. I guess I should have started out with a bridge she could test instead of that diy jet ski.
3/8" cable is what is commonly used for shield wires (the top wires that protect the rest of the cables from lightning) on large power lines. It's also used for guy wires (the wires that you see coming off the tower at an angle and anchored to the ground) so yeah..... I'd say its plenty for a small treehouse bridge lol
There are a few people mentioning it, but to break it down: Just put the 6x6 at the closest points to mitigate cable sag. Drill through it, use bushings. It will be stronger and last longer.
That was a "Great Toss" ~ belongs in the NBL I think. Learning to build a suspension bridge too. Don't think I really make one but can't hurt though for future though... thanks. Oh yea, grandma really trusts you doesn't she!!
He man...i took your advice and bought me some isotunes , i haven't tested them at work yet , but i'll start again next monday . so i'm exited to test m 👍
As a Cable-Hauler Logging Contractor, I have a couple of tips; one has already been mentioned about how to attach ‘Bulldog’ clamps so you don’t compromise the strength of your cables, the second is that the tension on your cables increases exponentially the shorter the chord of your rope. The rule of thumb is to never have less than 10% deflection in your cable. You will have noticed when you swung on the cable as a test, the smaller tower flexed noticeably towards the other. Your 100kg weight could easily translate to over 1000kg tension in the cable! Imagine if you have 10 or 15 people standing on the bridge. There is more than enough strength in the cables, but the tower may need bracing.
I saw the tower sway slightly. You're right, the materials are strong and looks beefy, but the forces pulling the towers together when on the bridge would be multiplied to a lot of tension with 10 people that high up. May consider bracing, and maybe some bushings for the cables touching wood. Otherwise, the bridge looks great!
Seemed like bigger tower flexed. What option is there?
@@tuanische He solved it by putting beams between the two towers so they don’t get pushed into each other. Problem solved
Comment aged well.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
Your grandma is absolutely precious! She needs to be on more or your videos.
Hello Mr Moth,
Once upon a time I used to rig scaffolding in NYC. cables are deceptive you won’t know they’re loose until it’s too late. Please heed my warning use at least three cable clamps in an alternating pattern per each connection plus a thimble on each bend.
Your children are more valuable than the cost of these safety measures!
I agree to needing 3 cable clamps, but not to alternate directions. I was always told “you never saddle a dead horse” so the saddle sits on the side of the rope with the action, and the bare end is held in place with the U-bolt.
3/8” cable does require 3 clips. First one tight up against the thimble and the next 2 spaced approx 10x the diam of the cable away from the first (3 to 4”).
so, was grandma visiting in between her base jumping vacation and free climbing in Yosemite. You have a fun family, can't wait to see the finish.
Hey brother quick tip. Block out the railing posts. Same when building a deck. Over time the bolt hole can grow and loosen, but blocking is a rock solid backup and makes a crazy difference. Especially important with the load these posts will be incuring. Amazing job thus far!
this is an awesome project but I was going to say this very thing. super simple to add in but you def need to do this. i believe it's in the deck building code attachment of normal PT railing posts to do this to ensure there is no deflection of the post when a 200lb point load at the top is applied at the top. normally keeps a full grown human from falling through a railing but in this case it's stopping the moment force from the handrail cables.
This whole thing is bolted together without blocks. So yeah….
Awesome channel, but yes I agree , blocks will make world of difference !, kKerp up your incredible work, thank you so much
He doesn't respond to these. Not sure if he even looks at them from listening to the podcast. Lol
@@matthewmarello1347 I and probably some others mentioned in his first video about not putting a beam accross the last posts before the cantilevered section and since I have seen at least a carrigebolted 2x10 so I think he is at least seeing and reacting to the comments. I don't really need a reply, i just want to put up some non judgemental safety reminders.
I love your grandmother!
Get a woman your own age dude
You did a beautiful job! I am jealous, Iver has the absolute best dad in the whole world!! 😊
Pretty cool Fort for your kid. As mentioned here before, those of us who work cables for a living see a few things that you might consider improving, lets call them “best practices”. Where you made your eyes on the ends of your cables, orientation of those cable clamps matter, use 3 clamps per eye on anything over 1/2” cable, space the clamps 6 rope diameters apart. And a thimble lining the eye wouldn’t hurt. That cable is plenty strong but the steeper the angle or “flatter” your cable the more lateral force you apply to your towers when you stand on it, consider running cable guy-wires to transfer that lateral force down to your footings if possible.
SUPER IMPORTANT TIP ! When fitting the rope clicks, never put the “U” bolt over the “live” end of the rope, the cable that is going to the bridge) the unbolt goes on the “dead” end and the “saddle” goes on the “live” end (the cable that is going to the bridge). Otherwise they can slip and fail. 👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
“Never Saddle a dead horse”
Never saddle a dead horse, is the old saying.
@@artpalmer9547 Came here to say that. I think I saw at least one dead horse saddled. Interestingly I found this out when I went to a NASCAR race at Daytona with a maintenance guy at work. He pointed out the cables on the catch fence were saddling the dead horse.
Never saddle a dead horse!
Never horse around with a dead saddle, whut my gramma ust to say.
"..And those are the stairs that Ivor cut." He sounds proud of his contribution and he definitely should be! Love seeing him get in on these projects, they are so much more special for it.
Amazing build , I love your channel..
All the comments about " Never saddle a dead horse " are 100% true so at the very least you should change them around and if you follow the rule of thumb math for cable clamps each eye you create for a 3/8" rope requires 3 clamps. After looking at the link for the cable clamps you purchased I've noticed that the saddles are smooth , not grooved to follow the stranded lay of the wire rope you've purchased. If your going through the trouble of taking them off I recommend changing them to a brand name like Crosby. Their product , although a lot more expensive is far superior and their manufacture specs only require 2 per termination for a 3/8" rope.
Your Grandma looked like she was having fun, at her age having fun is great and fills her day with joy. LOL and God Bless
Way to go Grandma! The bridge is pretty cool too 🌞
Seriously Jason, this is an awesome project. Iver is going to have the coolest "tree" house around. He's one lucky kid. You're a great dad. You're a great grandson too and yes I know you probably jumped up and down on the bridge before letting Grandma up there. God know I would have done the same if not more. I don't know if you were a boy scout but you earned your eagle scout badge as far as I'm concerned.
You are the coolest dad ever to build this for your son!!! Thanks for sharing.
Respect for grandma, grandma powerrr. Greetings from the Netherlands
Thank you for sharing your expertise
I love how she was having fun 🥰
Recommendation: You should put some bushings in any of the holes that bear a load of the raw cable. You can already see the holes at the top of the 4x4 posts are rubbing down and wearing from the friction and pressure of the cable. That will increase slop over time, you'll retighten them in a few months, adding more pressure, the same thing will happen again. So if you have 1/2" cable, get some steel pipe with a 1/2" ID and a wall thickness of like a 1/4", drill a hole to fit that in the post and epoxy them into the posts. Then run your cables through the inside of the bushing, you can even grease or oil the ID. That way, the cable is sitting on metal and the weight or tension of the entire bushing is bearing onto lets say an inch of wood, instead of half an inch and won't wear through.
that would be cleannnn
I thought the same thing for all the cable holes. And when I saw the posts, I thought exactly what you said. BUSHINGS. Get some rigid conduit/galvanized, and use conduit bushings.
An excellent suggestion!
Thinking the same thing... now that the cables are already installed... maybe they have some that are 1/2 cut so you can place around the cables? I don't know, but that's a darned good idea.
Well... in really hard, daily playground-use. But I think he is building this for his son. There will be some time, there will be some use, but its not going to be used every day, by "a lot of kids", and not for a decade. His son is... 6 ? How long will he use it? Did you still used your local playground at the age of 11? I didnt. So there will be 5 years of use now and then, and a little play, a little wobble just makes it cooler.
I have really enjoyed this excursion from carpentry to civil engineering.
If nothing else I hope everyone watching has a better appreciation for how different (yet similar) the disciplines are.
Respect for your work and the very fit Granny 👍🏻😁❤
PRolong your cable life with adding thimbles at each of the loop ends. also never saddle a dead horse, in other words the cable clamp saddle goes on the load side of the cable with the u-bolt on the loose end.
I found that bracing the posts is really needed even if you don't have any upper structure. The carriage bolts are strong, but simply lack the distance/spread to create much leverage.
Yay grandma!! Great intro, if the Forman was watching I could see him shaking his head and walking away with the hammer still laying there.
Soooooooo cool. I think Craig deserves more speaking parts from here on out. Also Grandma deserves an Oscar for best supporting actress
I absolutely agree with this. More grandma and more Craig 🤣
But it was the bridge that was supporting the actress! 🥁🥁
Your Grandma is awesome.
You really should run all your eye bolts all the way to the eye as much as you can. The more the eye is cantilevered away from where it's anchored the more it can be levered on and loosen or bend and/or break. With as much as you have out, running them in will really tension it all up too but you may have to loosen what you've done already to get the extra distance.
Everything is big enough for the weight itself but static loads are different than dynamic and if a large weight were to pull on the cable, the forces on it are different than just holding the weight and they're more susceptible to bending or wallowing out the hole from being wrenched on.
If there was any chance of a lateral load on those (very long) eye bolts I’d say they should be snugged up to their shoulders into the 2x, but In this case the only lateral load they might see if if someone jumped up and hung on them from under the platform. Even still a grown man couldn’t bend them while under tension.
I was wondering about that as well. For the eyebolts that anchor the angled hand rail lines, (which create an upwards force,) I was thinking of putting blocking above the eyebolt to resist upwards torquing on the bolt.
@@JasonPeliwo Yes, I'm sure how this is set up it's fine. I'm talking in general also. Those particular ones have shoulders and are obviously meant to be run all the way up to it for the reasons I mentioned. Some don't have that and it's not as obvious so I pointed it out. He said he needed to do some tweaking and tightening too and that would be the first place to start imo. And regardless of if it will be fine and work in this application as it is or not, it's still good practice to do things the intended way and have even less to worry about. Why not make your weakest links as strong as possible if you can?
@@Nyall That's exactly why you run the eye bolt all the way to the shoulder. So it can't be torqued up as easily which keeps you from needing additional blocking. That's what the shoulder is there to help with. To strengthen the pivot point and give it a wider base to resist being torqued to the side which it relies on the shoulder being against something. If you don't have an eye bolt with a shoulder you should run a nut on all the way then drop a washer on it and cinch everything to that as close to the eye as it will go to create that same shoulder to prevent all the things I mentioned.
Great family project.
You should do radio. You have a relaxing chill tone quality to your voice. Or, audio books.
I am jealous of your skills. I am a poet. No one needs poets. But carpenters. People always need carpenters.
Great video.
Grandma is absolutely adorable ❤
That’s one cunning plan to bring forward any inherited wealth….. 🎉🎉🎉
I demand that we now see more of grandma in speaking parts carrying a current newspaper which would act as a “proof of life” test!!!
Poor grandma clearly was coerced into having so much fun and testing out the pacemaker…… 😅
Lucky Iver!
Great video and I concur with the bushings and saddle clamps and other stuff comments. ….. the exponential increase in load transference is enormous.
Verna rocks! I wanna be Verna when I grow up, and be climbing across rope ladders when I'm 95.
Woow, right there at the end,you got really deep! Philosophical. Nice job.
Love your grand mum
Thumbs up from me only because you got your grandmother involved. Grandmothers are awesome!
Great video! Your son is very lucky. Grandma was the best.
I've used cable and cable locks with turn buckles on construction sights for safety. You should def at least double up on the cable clamps
Your videos usually make me smile. But that grandma scene was priceless :-)
So good so cool. Congratulations Jason.
I would not tie the cables to the top of the worts but instead run them through the towers and then diagonally across to the ground with some buried concrete anchor. If you look at some big suspension bridges the part where the cables end is the biggest (by volume) part of the bridge.
It's Grandma for the ultimate win on this video! 👍👍😁😁
I LOVE YOUR SENSE OF HUMOR
Awesome build! Thanks for sharing!! Blessings!!!
Looking great!
Nice!!! I love Grandma's 👵 sense of adventure!!! ❤️
Put a piece of steel pipe through the top handles where the cable passes through. It will prevent the wood wearing down over time. Make sure you install the clamps the right direction and I normally use at least 3. Looks pretty good! One trick also is put the u bolt farther down the cable and the next one put it on and slide it toward the loop. This adds tension to the loop as you install it.
I subbed for the tables, chairs, and cabinets, and now this "treehouse" build is the best part of my week!
My only suggestion would be to put some type of a hose or something to act as a cushion around the steel cable that you're using as a handrail.
excellent job. Couldnt help but notice the construction in the background....shop extension?
This has got to be one of my favorite series you have done so far. Talk about over engineering things.
Over building in some aspects because there is no engineering. There is a difference.
Wow, cool!!! And your grandma is AMAZING! Well done team Moth!
Grandma looks amazing for 95! And great looking bridge!
Looks great. Great idea to use the pipes to redirect the cable.
Your grandmother rocks!
Your Craig jig is very helpful
Hey man love the videos. Just as Shane Wilson stated change your saddles on your cables there's an old saying out there...
" Never saddle a dead horse"
Keep up the good work it's looking great
This is awesome! Been loving following along with this project!
my "abuelita" is 87 years old. but i realized that she would say almost the same that yours did. How cool is that? thousands and thousands of miles away and grandmothers thinks and talks alike, right?
Solar powered lighted post caps would be a cool finishing touch
That turned out awesome I bet the Foreman is getting super stoked !!
grandmas are the best
I love you and all your projects and I don’t even know you! Keep the video’s coming you rock!
Lol. Dude yall are stupid funny. Every week Jason makes me laugh.
Grandma is doing great for 95.. good on her
This was amazing and you do a great job of imitating real life structures. Props to you for actually doing the stuff that I always say I'm going to do....
My only criticism would be to put the netting on the inside of the cables. It looks like you maybe attached it to the outside of the bridge... Which could work depending on how it's attached, but inside the cable would be a better failsafe. Awesome job!
I agree, on the inside would be better and safer, no where for any part of A body to go.
awesome work! i would wrap the top metal cable with something as it will become a sharp painful hazard to the hands as it starts to wear. I know this just from the winch on my ATV how I don't even touch the metal cable anymore without gloves.
Jason, great work, man! My indifferent to woodworking wife says that you have a very heavenly voice and diction)))! Should I be jealous 😂?
Wonderful video and one heck of A good bridge.
Thank you. That’s all. Just thank you
Great vid. Have enjoyed watching the process. God bless.
Thanks Grandma!
That ending was so damn sweet
The netting on the bridge 👍 my brain works overtime wanting safety features. Nursing 20yrs in the Operating Room/ER made me neurotic mess 😂 absolutely beautiful bridge
Yay Grandma!
That’s so cool 😊
I am really enjoying this series!
As you hung from the cable, I watched the whole structure on the left, move inwards.
19:43 hay, we never joke abt that
Dude. Your gmaw is awesome for her age. Dang.
Careful how you go Jason, , , what with the directing talents of the foreman coming through AND a new budding star in the form of grandma, you may find yourself redundant before you know it! - loving absolutely everything about this build , great job 👍
❤️❤️❤️🤣🤣🤣your videos are always entertaining! Thanks!
Dang, I really wish my grandma was still here to help me out like that. I guess I should have started out with a bridge she could test instead of that diy jet ski.
3/8" cable is what is commonly used for shield wires (the top wires that protect the rest of the cables from lightning) on large power lines. It's also used for guy wires (the wires that you see coming off the tower at an angle and anchored to the ground) so yeah..... I'd say its plenty for a small treehouse bridge lol
Nice job! My instructor always said that we paid for the hammer fully, so you should grab the bottom of the handle 😄
Wow looks awesome
There are a few people mentioning it, but to break it down:
Just put the 6x6 at the closest points to mitigate cable sag.
Drill through it, use bushings.
It will be stronger and last longer.
I could NOT see how that was going to come together. ....but how satisfying was that ending???
Your narration just absolutely cracks me up. "Goofy" doesn't even begin to explain.
Awesome
Two things 1: a zip line is needed for sure 2: the wood slats might be to close together could squeeze a finger ..
Wow 95? She’s doing great for her age.
That was a "Great Toss" ~ belongs in the NBL I think. Learning to build a suspension bridge too. Don't think I really make one but can't hurt though for future though... thanks. Oh yea, grandma really trusts you doesn't she!!
He man...i took your advice and bought me some isotunes , i haven't tested them at work yet , but i'll start again next monday . so i'm exited to test m 👍
That came out mint!
awesome!!!!!
Post are the up rights
Suspension rail would be the bottom cable and the hand rail is your top cable.
Schaweet lookin project
Nice job bracing the overhang.
Great video. I enjoy them all!!!
Looks great