huge help bro!!! been loadin 45 colt and 38 spl long while, but this is my 1st serious rifle loading and i was shaving bullets going in, got this thing and didnt get the jist, nice job and cheers!!!
I found out early on that too much bell and the case won't enter certain seating dies. If you want really good neck tension for use in AR15 and other semi-auto guns, a full-length die sans decap/expander rod teamed with this die gives you that. Works especially well with boattail bullets.
Georgiaboy44, thank you for watching and commenting. The Lee loaders are excellent tools of the trade. I really like the expanding die for all sorts of calibers, when using cast bullets.
Nice video on this poorly named Lee die. It should be called the "Rifle flaring die" or just "Flaring die" IMHO. A expanding die to me, is The Lyman "M" die. Its patent appears to have run out after decades. Redding now has it as well on their NexGen and other dies. Lee has even introduced it in their new powder thru expander "M" style plugs in their powder thru expander dies. So Now we have more, and better options for a actual "expander die" for straight walled cases and pistol cases. To me a "expander die" goes all the way into a pistol case and also flares the mouth for cast bullet reloaders. The "M" style, 2 step Plug actually enlarges/ sizes the brass all the way thru where the bullet ends up after being pressed into place. This Lee die you are showing here for rifle cases, just flares the case mouth and really should be called a "flaring die." IMHO The "Expanding" has actually already been done by the center expander plug on your sizing die, on all rifle case die sets. I never will understand Why Lee misnamed that die.
Thanks for the response. ! A question if ok please, I load for a 25-20 and some of the brass gets shaved off when seating. Will an expander die help this? Secondly would shaving off lead on seating decrease accuracy ? I have a Winchester 1892 with a relined barrel and can’t seem to get any decent accuracy Thanks in advance
@@jonparkes7006 I think the brass shaving off may be the seating die set too short, also check your trim length on your cases. Lead shaving off will definitely effect accuracy, how much really depends on everything involved. I think a lead bullet that is the correct diameter of the bore (relined barrel in this case) that allows the bullet to obturate and expand slightly filling the grooves will get the best accuracy. Sometimes the most accurate load will be toward the beginning powder charge, sometimes the middle or higher. It is all subjective and can take time and be a little difficult to get a good accurate load. Sometimes you have to settle for "good enough". I know with the correct diameter bullet your chance at accuracy is much greater. I am not sure what all of your parameters are but start with a lead bullet correctly sized and slowly start low on the powder charge, work up carefully. Getting a good powder/bullet combo can take testing and time. As long as the barrel is not horrible you should get decent accuracy. Now having said that, decent accuracy may be 2 or 3 inches at 100 yards. That sounds like a very cool gun and I think with a little trial error you will get a load that makes you happy. If you have lead bullets you want to use the expander die for sure. Keep me posted.
Hi John Thanks very much for the info again. I used the tool to flare the neck’s of the case, and loaded as normal. It certainly tightened the groups up, and seemed to like the lower range of the recommended powder charge. Really appreciate all your help ;)
After the bullet seating step the next step would be to use the crimp die to take out the flare and also crimp the bullet. Some cartridges take less crimp than others but always go through the crimp die to remove the flare after using the neck expanding die. Let me know if you want more info. I realized I don't have a video showing that step of the process. I may have to make one.
Thank you for the demonstration,, I've a question; I'm considering buying this Lee expander die for my 9mm cases, I'm told it works fine. However, I wanted to know if the sliding flaring part inside die needs to be stopped from moving (bcuz initially its slide feature is to actuate the powder drop), Or does it stop on its on? Unless the one you're using here is Not a powder thru expander Lee die.
This die is only for expanding cases and does not have a powder through feature. It has a threaded area on the top with an adjustment knob that changes the length of travel for the expander installed inside. The powder through expanding die is completely different. I have those and they work differently but can be used as you desire. I have used the powder through expanding die to actuate a powder drop and as long as you are careful adjusting, it will work for you. Thank you for asking a good question and thank you for watching.
@@johnshandloading7907 Thank you Very much for your reply. So, I then I prefer to buy the one you are using here and save myself extra work. Can you say type or the model number (if it has one)? Is yours the universal or specific?
John, I've another question; is it normal or unusual that when the 9mm case is rammed up for the resizing step, for the case to come down with sorta an abrasive or scratchy micro lines on it, and not look like it did when it went up at first? I did remove the decap pin from die and wiped it with alcohol rag, also ran a small piece with alcohol thu die body. Looking thru it, it looked shiny smooth, didn't see any scratches. I did 20 cases, light lube and they all had those marks. When I did my 30-06 and 30-30 cases I never experienced this. And this whole rock chucker press equipment I bought from an army buddy who bought it new when we bought our rifle's back in 89. The dies were new too. Now, 34 yrs later, I have purchased my 9mm p320 and I aldo want to reload this round, I bought this two-die set from another person on ebay. I'm wondering if there's a solution, or should I just return
Sometimes you will get marks. The die may be rough or dirty, the brass may be dirty, or the die may be adjusted a little too tight. It is hard to know for sure, but some marks is normal in my experience on semi auto handgun brass.
@@johnshandloading7907 @man_1911 Thank you for your input. I did contact RCBS yesterday about this. Just a few minutes ago I received an email saying they have created an order for me, covered under the warranty,, wow. I'm left wondering if its just the die in question or a whole new set. I'm impressed. I hope, I hope..lol.
My mistake, that email was for a replacement primer cup,spring pin. But I called today, and they said I can send it in to them, bcuz it would be inspected, polished and if that doesn't fix, they'll send replacement.
If you want consistent results then yes the brass should be trimmed to the same length. You can use it without trimming but the flares will be slightly different and the seating and crimping of the bullets will vary. Brass should be trimmed for consistency anyway, but I realize many people will use this die for pistol brass that varies in length and is not trimmed and it works ok. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I have been using powder coat from paintballkingdom.com for a couple years now. All the colors you see in my videos are from there. I order by the color so there is not really a kind. Some people experiment with many different kinds and brands. Lots of people use Eastwood powder coat and there are others. Ford light blue and dark blue form Eastwood are probably the most popular. Thank you for asking a good question and thank you for subscribing.
@@johnshandloading7907 No sir, Thank you for the quick reply and details. I just starting to get into casting my own bullets, mainly because I shoot a lot of 223. I can make a lot of bullets from a few pounds of lead.
@@johnshandloading7907 yea I goof up first case I did went to for still use make a dummy rd . And had full bullet. . Then did two with out the flair die the bullet went in fine so thing normal 300blk die must flair little bit itself
The die is used for flaring cases so they can easily accept lead cast bullets and gas checked bullets without damaging the powder coating or shaving the lead from the bullets. Lead cast bullets are slightly larger in diameter then the equivalent jacketed bullets so the mouth of the case needs to be opened up slightly to allow for that and help things line up. Thank you for watching and commenting.
It is designed to be used in a press, but you could improvise and tap the flaring tool by hand like you are suggesting. The shape of the flare may not be as consistent as using the press if using a hammer but it would work. Thank you for watching and asking the question. I appreciate it.
huge help bro!!! been loadin 45 colt and 38 spl long while, but this is my 1st serious rifle loading and i was shaving bullets going in, got this thing and didnt get the jist, nice job and cheers!!!
I am happy the video helped you. I am always glad when someone letsm know my video was a help. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Thank for the detailed and very careful demonstration - I have learnt lots cheers.
I found out early on that too much bell and the case won't enter certain seating dies. If you want really good neck tension for use in AR15 and other semi-auto guns, a full-length die sans decap/expander rod teamed with this die gives you that. Works especially well with boattail bullets.
Great to know. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Good demonstration John. I like that die. I use the big expander plug with my 45-70 Lee loader👍🏻
Georgiaboy44, thank you for watching and commenting. The Lee loaders are excellent tools of the trade. I really like the expanding die for all sorts of calibers, when using cast bullets.
Wonderful video. The instructions that came with mine were pretty vague. Thanks for providing a thorough, straightforward explanation.
Thank you Mark. I appreciate the kind comment and positive feedback. Have a great day.
Handy video John.
Thanks
I am happy it helped you.
👍
Nice! I love that die. Thanks Brother.
Thanks JH586, many uses for this die with cast bullets.
Thank you very much from Russia.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I am in the United States and always love to hear from people around the world. Have a great day!
I'm gonna join your group brother, us reloaders need to stick together.
Thanks man. You are right we need to stick together.
Good stuff.
Haha it's here first
Thank you James, I appreciate you watching and commenting.
good video, i have 2 of em, they are great
Thanks MCK. I like mine and use it all the time on several calibers. I appreciate you watching.
Thanks mck for that one lee die had spare of
Nice video on this poorly named Lee die. It should be called the "Rifle flaring die" or just "Flaring die" IMHO. A expanding die to me, is The Lyman "M" die. Its patent appears to have run out after decades. Redding now has it as well on their NexGen and other dies. Lee has even introduced it in their new powder thru expander "M" style plugs in their powder thru expander dies. So Now we have more, and better options for a actual "expander die" for straight walled cases and pistol cases. To me a "expander die" goes all the way into a pistol case and also flares the mouth for cast bullet reloaders. The "M" style, 2 step Plug actually enlarges/ sizes the brass all the way thru where the bullet ends up after being pressed into place. This Lee die you are showing here for rifle cases, just flares the case mouth and really should be called a "flaring die." IMHO The "Expanding" has actually already been done by the center expander plug on your sizing die, on all rifle case die sets. I never will understand Why Lee misnamed that die.
thank you for vid. I like the ping it makes!
I appreciate you watching and commenting. Thank you.
And now im off to do 3030s
Good stuff.
Outstanding demonstration
Thank you 🙏
I am glad it helped you. Thank you for letting me know. Have a great day.
Thanks for the response. !
A question if ok please, I load for a 25-20 and some of the brass gets shaved off when seating. Will an expander die help this? Secondly would shaving off lead on seating decrease accuracy ?
I have a Winchester 1892 with a relined barrel and can’t seem to get any decent accuracy
Thanks in advance
@@jonparkes7006 I think the brass shaving off may be the seating die set too short, also check your trim length on your cases. Lead shaving off will definitely effect accuracy, how much really depends on everything involved. I think a lead bullet that is the correct diameter of the bore (relined barrel in this case) that allows the bullet to obturate and expand slightly filling the grooves will get the best accuracy. Sometimes the most accurate load will be toward the beginning powder charge, sometimes the middle or higher. It is all subjective and can take time and be a little difficult to get a good accurate load. Sometimes you have to settle for "good enough". I know with the correct diameter bullet your chance at accuracy is much greater. I am not sure what all of your parameters are but start with a lead bullet correctly sized and slowly start low on the powder charge, work up carefully. Getting a good powder/bullet combo can take testing and time. As long as the barrel is not horrible you should get decent accuracy. Now having said that, decent accuracy may be 2 or 3 inches at 100 yards. That sounds like a very cool gun and I think with a little trial error you will get a load that makes you happy. If you have lead bullets you want to use the expander die for sure. Keep me posted.
@@johnshandloading7907
Thanks very much for the detailed response and help , these will be useful and I will try these out. Best Jon !!
Hi John
Thanks very much for the info again. I used the tool to flare the neck’s of the case, and loaded as normal. It certainly tightened the groups up, and seemed to like the lower range of the recommended powder charge.
Really appreciate all your help ;)
So how are you getting rid of the bell at the mouth of the case after you seat your bullet
After the bullet seating step the next step would be to use the crimp die to take out the flare and also crimp the bullet. Some cartridges take less crimp than others but always go through the crimp die to remove the flare after using the neck expanding die. Let me know if you want more info. I realized I don't have a video showing that step of the process. I may have to make one.
Thank you for the demonstration,, I've a question; I'm considering buying this Lee expander die for my 9mm cases, I'm told it works fine. However, I wanted to know if the sliding flaring part inside die needs to be stopped from moving (bcuz initially its slide feature is to actuate the powder drop), Or does it stop on its on? Unless the one you're using here is Not a powder thru expander Lee die.
This die is only for expanding cases and does not have a powder through feature. It has a threaded area on the top with an adjustment knob that changes the length of travel for the expander installed inside. The powder through expanding die is completely different. I have those and they work differently but can be used as you desire. I have used the powder through expanding die to actuate a powder drop and as long as you are careful adjusting, it will work for you. Thank you for asking a good question and thank you for watching.
@@johnshandloading7907 Thank you Very much for your reply. So, I then I prefer to buy the one you are using here and save myself extra work. Can you say type or the model number (if it has one)? Is yours the universal or specific?
Ok, disregard my question about it's type, I just rewatched your video and you described it. Awesome..
John, I've another question; is it normal or unusual that when the 9mm case is rammed up for the resizing step, for the case to come down with sorta an abrasive or scratchy micro lines on it, and not look like it did when it went up at first?
I did remove the decap pin from die and wiped it with alcohol rag, also ran a small piece with alcohol thu die body. Looking thru it, it looked shiny smooth, didn't see any scratches. I did 20 cases, light lube and they all had those marks.
When I did my 30-06 and 30-30 cases I never experienced this. And this whole rock chucker press equipment I bought from an army buddy who bought it new when we bought our rifle's back in 89. The dies were new too.
Now, 34 yrs later, I have purchased my 9mm p320 and I aldo want to reload this round, I bought this two-die set from another person on ebay.
I'm wondering if there's a solution, or should I just return
Sometimes you will get marks. The die may be rough or dirty, the brass may be dirty, or the die may be adjusted a little too tight. It is hard to know for sure, but some marks is normal in my experience on semi auto handgun brass.
@@johnshandloading7907 @man_1911 Thank you for your input. I did contact RCBS yesterday about this. Just a few minutes ago I received an email saying they have created an order for me, covered under the warranty,, wow. I'm left wondering if its just the die in question or a whole new set. I'm impressed. I hope, I hope..lol.
My mistake, that email was for a replacement primer cup,spring pin. But I called today, and they said I can send it in to them, bcuz it would be inspected, polished and if that doesn't fix, they'll send replacement.
Enjoyed the video!
Thanks AR. I appreciate you watching.
Do you have to trim your brass to same length for this to work properly?
If you want consistent results then yes the brass should be trimmed to the same length. You can use it without trimming but the flares will be slightly different and the seating and crimping of the bullets will vary. Brass should be trimmed for consistency anyway, but I realize many people will use this die for pistol brass that varies in length and is not trimmed and it works ok. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Just curious, where do you get it and what kind of powder coat are you using?
I have been using powder coat from paintballkingdom.com for a couple years now. All the colors you see in my videos are from there. I order by the color so there is not really a kind. Some people experiment with many different kinds and brands. Lots of people use Eastwood powder coat and there are others. Ford light blue and dark blue form Eastwood are probably the most popular. Thank you for asking a good question and thank you for subscribing.
@@johnshandloading7907 No sir, Thank you for the quick reply and details. I just starting to get into casting my own bullets, mainly because I shoot a lot of 223. I can make a lot of bullets from a few pounds of lead.
Great video John need that video. Mck sent me one of these dies for 300blk loading for cast bullets
They are a good tool for those who use cast lead bullets. Very nice of MCK. Good luck.
@@johnshandloading7907 yea I goof up first case I did went to for still use make a dummy rd . And had full bullet. . Then did two with out the flair die the bullet went in fine so thing normal 300blk die must flair little bit itself
I got this so I can expand the neck of 223 cases to load lead
Vanilla Gorilla, thank you for watching and commenting. Loading lead bullets takes reloading/hand loading to a whole different realm.
Why would you expand the necks on bottleneck cases?
The die is used for flaring cases so they can easily accept lead cast bullets and gas checked bullets without damaging the powder coating or shaving the lead from the bullets.
Lead cast bullets are slightly larger in diameter then the equivalent jacketed bullets so the mouth of the case needs to be opened up slightly to allow for that and help things line up. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@johnshandloading7907 I know it’s to flare cases you shored up the reason why because of casted bullets TY
do you need the press or can you lightly tap it with a rubber mallet?
It is designed to be used in a press, but you could improvise and tap the flaring tool by hand like you are suggesting. The shape of the flare may not be as consistent as using the press if using a hammer but it would work. Thank you for watching and asking the question. I appreciate it.
@@johnshandloading7907 Good to know, gonna throw it in the bug out bag with a couple lee loaders.