Two additions to this framing: make the bottom of each frame a double 2x4, the bottom one being pressure treated to avoid moisture issues and add a layer of foam between frame and concrete to avoid water leak.
This was great, I been tryin to find out about "how to make foundation for plastic shed" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Damkietor Nonpareil Dominion - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a great one of a kind product for building better sheds and woodworking minus the headache. Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my partner got excellent results with it.
Whether you're done this before or it's your first attempt! - RyanShedPlans will help you decide which shed project is best suited for you, how to execute it and bring professional results every time. Visit => *WoodBlueprints. Com*
I always measure to know where my anchor bolts are in relation to the stud. Much easier & 3/4 or even 1 1/2 inch is not going to cause the building to fall.
2 questions: 1) If you use pressure-treated wood for the bottom plate is that enough to keep termites out of the building? 2) What do you do on the inside corners if you want to add sheet rock? There's nothing to nail to on one of the inside walls.
Correct, pressure treated is for rotting prevention not termites. You need to have termite treatment. If you want to install drywall you would install another 2x4 to make a full corner.
Really do you need pressure treated these days? I use window seal (a rubber like compound) or even the foam seal either way lumber doesn't touch concrete which is key.
You would add an additional stud on the inside corner. Make sure to install it perpendicular to the other studs so you can insulate the corner. A 2x6 works best as it will go behind the adjacent wall line and still come onto the new wall line enough to hold drywall.
thanks for sharing this great video with us, simple question, where can i found the square mounting plates ? i did a lot of searches but found nothing, thanks !
I want to do this to a drveway slab to erect two privacy walls where an aluminum lean-to awning roof already exists. With new walls and no additional weight from a wood framed roof, would this be too heavy for a slab without footings?
where can I find more detail on sealing the wood and concrete, keeping the outside weather from coming under the bottom plate ??? Great Video series though. thanks for sharing. Is there more videos to finish this shed build?
I hope you've found the info you needed, but if not...in order to keep your shed water tight you should use a house wrap like Dupont tyvek. Google images can help give you the idea. That's probably the only sure-fire way. Another layer of protection would be to apply 2 thick, parallel beads of silicone under each bottom plate, like you would if you were installing an exterior door. Good luck, water ruins everything in time. One more thing, ESPECIALLY if you use t1-11 siding, install gutters. Without them, hundreds of gallons of water will drip from the roof and half will splash in your yard, but the other half will splash on the bottom 8" of your shed and the paint will be ruined and there will probably be wood rot after only a season or two. Have a great weekend.
Do you know if it is common for framers to knock anchor bolts to the side and break the concrete in order to get a wall stood up ? It seem like for our build, the foundation engineer and the framer didn't coordinate where the bolts needed to be placed so a few of them were hammered out to the side causing the concrete to chip.
The best way to prevent that is to layout the wall stud locations on the forming boards and double check. But even then mistakes are made. The method shown in this video allows you to still nail off the siding or O.S.B. Thanks for commenting.
Hammering the anchor bolts to the side is probably a terrible idea lol. If they're in the way of a stud (depending on your building codes) you can do as they did in this video and notch it out, or simply move the stud over a little bit, or build a box around it (As in, cut a couple of your framing material to lets say 8", nail them in 3-4" on either side of the anchor bolt which should be enough to get a wrench in there to tighten it later, and then put a double top plate ontop of it and run your studs ontop of that. Should be fine as long as this isn't a super load bearing part of the wall) and if it falls where a king stud for a door or window is supposed to go or where the door cutout is then simply take a grinder to the anchor bolt and cut it off flush with the concrete then you can drill a hole in the correct spot you want it to be and epoxy in a new anchor bolt. But damaging the concrete because something is in your way is really just lazy people not wanting to do the right thing.
@@icreatablestv Except that the inverted 'V' creates a notch, and the size of a notch in bearing wall studs is limited to 25% of the stud width in bearing walls. So if you have to cut an inverted V, then you should also nail an additional stud alongside the notched stud.
@@carolinerose5743 I think people are overthinking this. 25% would be 1-3/8" on a load-bearing 2x6 exterior wall where such nitpicking is even worth a shrug, and 1-3/8" is plenty to notch around an anchor like this. 25% would be 7/8" on a 2x4 wall, which is still close enough to call it good; especially on a little shed. As for hammering the anchor sideways, I can see that working ok too if it's only a little so the nut can still thread down all the way and the washer is biting the sill plate. And if you wanted to be sure you could just run a short vertical block and sister it to the stud instead of a whole additional stud.
I have an 20 year old 8'x8' already poured concrete slab and I'm thinking of having an aluminum shed there. I know this video is 4 years old but if anyone can tell me how best to anchor the shed into the concrete?
So I’ve never used osb between the header boards. Depending on 2x4 or 2x6 framing, ive used that 1/2” or 1” extra space to put some insulation. To make the header more energy efficient. I don’t do this for a living though. Just doing my own windows, and family/friends windows. I’ve never had any of them have an issue. Is there a problem with doing this though?
I don't think so really, but someone could maybe split hairs and say that the osb sandwich makes it more stable. The 2x6 or whatever could warp because it's just regular wood, but the osb wont move.
And it just makes up the 1/2" difference you have between the width of a 2x4 (3.5") and the height of two 2x4s stacked up (3"). When you make that sandwich, your header can sit right on top of the king studs and be flush with the outside and inside walls. If they weren't it would make walls on one or both sides difficult to finish over the header.
You skipped right over the one thing i wanted to see ... if the anchor bolts are already set in foundation, how do you drill all the bottom plate holes in the right place? If i measure or eyeball it they are always just a little out of alignment ... PITA
Set your bottom plate where you want it. Take a hammer drill (or rotary hammer), and drill holes through both bottom plate and slab where you need them to be.
Two additions to this framing: make the bottom of each frame a double 2x4, the bottom one being pressure treated to avoid moisture issues and add a layer of foam between frame and concrete to avoid water leak.
This was great, I been tryin to find out about "how to make foundation for plastic shed" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Have you ever come across - Damkietor Nonpareil Dominion - (should be on google have a look ) ? It is a great one of a kind product for building better sheds and woodworking minus the headache. Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my partner got excellent results with it.
Whether you're done this before or it's your first attempt! - RyanShedPlans will help you decide which shed project is best suited for you, how to execute it and bring professional results every time. Visit => *WoodBlueprints. Com*
I always measure to know where my anchor bolts are in relation to the stud. Much easier & 3/4 or even 1 1/2 inch is not going to cause the building to fall.
How do you clad a wall so close to the boundary fence AFTER you've fixed it up??
You get very friendly with your neighbor and convince them to take down the fence 😂
2 questions: 1) If you use pressure-treated wood for the bottom plate is that enough to keep termites out of the building? 2) What do you do on the inside corners if you want to add sheet rock? There's nothing to nail to on one of the inside walls.
Pressure treated wood keeps the walls from sucking up moisture from the concrete. I wouldn't expect it to do much for termites.
Correct, pressure treated is for rotting prevention not termites. You need to have termite treatment. If you want to install drywall you would install another 2x4 to make a full corner.
Really do you need pressure treated these days? I use window seal (a rubber like compound) or even the foam seal either way lumber doesn't touch concrete which is key.
You would add an additional stud on the inside corner. Make sure to install it perpendicular to the other studs so you can insulate the corner. A 2x6 works best as it will go behind the adjacent wall line and still come onto the new wall line enough to hold drywall.
A little late to the game, but Diatomaceous Earth with Boric acid covering the bottom plate will go a long way in keep out bugs.
thanks for sharing this great video with us, simple question, where can i found the square mounting plates ? i did a lot of searches but found nothing, thanks !
Instead of notching the wall stud to clear the concrete anchor, is it OK to just double up studs on each side of the anchor plate?
No damp proof under the timber?
What about drilling and installing the anchors after the wall is stood up? Great video by the way.
It works great, just a bit more work.
If I want a 12x16, would I use (2) 8 footers and put them together? If so, how? I think the longest 2x4's I can get are 12' long. ty
I want to do this to a drveway slab to erect two privacy walls where an aluminum lean-to awning roof already exists. With new walls and no additional weight from a wood framed roof, would this be too heavy for a slab without footings?
what are the anchors distances from each other??
where can I find more detail on sealing the wood and concrete, keeping the outside weather from coming under the bottom plate ???
Great Video series though. thanks for sharing. Is there more videos to finish this shed build?
I hope you've found the info you needed, but if not...in order to keep your shed water tight you should use a house wrap like Dupont tyvek. Google images can help give you the idea. That's probably the only sure-fire way. Another layer of protection would be to apply 2 thick, parallel beads of silicone under each bottom plate, like you would if you were installing an exterior door. Good luck, water ruins everything in time. One more thing, ESPECIALLY if you use t1-11 siding, install gutters. Without them, hundreds of gallons of water will drip from the roof and half will splash in your yard, but the other half will splash on the bottom 8" of your shed and the paint will be ruined and there will probably be wood rot after only a season or two. Have a great weekend.
Is it not required to have a vapor barrier under the bottom plate between the slab ?
Sill seal is to stop air moving under the wall. You can use it if you like. This shed is not heated so we did not do it.
The mountains in the background looks like Salt Lake City.
Do you know if it is common for framers to knock anchor bolts to the side and break the concrete in order to get a wall stood up ? It seem like for our build, the foundation engineer and the framer didn't coordinate where the bolts needed to be placed so a few of them were hammered out to the side causing the concrete to chip.
The best way to prevent that is to layout the wall stud locations on the forming boards and double check. But even then mistakes are made. The method shown in this video allows you to still nail off the siding or O.S.B. Thanks for commenting.
Hammering the anchor bolts to the side is probably a terrible idea lol. If they're in the way of a stud (depending on your building codes) you can do as they did in this video and notch it out, or simply move the stud over a little bit, or build a box around it (As in, cut a couple of your framing material to lets say 8", nail them in 3-4" on either side of the anchor bolt which should be enough to get a wrench in there to tighten it later, and then put a double top plate ontop of it and run your studs ontop of that. Should be fine as long as this isn't a super load bearing part of the wall) and if it falls where a king stud for a door or window is supposed to go or where the door cutout is then simply take a grinder to the anchor bolt and cut it off flush with the concrete then you can drill a hole in the correct spot you want it to be and epoxy in a new anchor bolt.
But damaging the concrete because something is in your way is really just lazy people not wanting to do the right thing.
@@icreatablestv Except that the inverted 'V' creates a notch, and the size of a notch in bearing wall studs is limited to 25% of the stud width in bearing walls. So if you have to cut an inverted V, then you should also nail an additional stud alongside the notched stud.
@@carolinerose5743 I think people are overthinking this. 25% would be 1-3/8" on a load-bearing 2x6 exterior wall where such nitpicking is even worth a shrug, and 1-3/8" is plenty to notch around an anchor like this. 25% would be 7/8" on a 2x4 wall, which is still close enough to call it good; especially on a little shed. As for hammering the anchor sideways, I can see that working ok too if it's only a little so the nut can still thread down all the way and the washer is biting the sill plate. And if you wanted to be sure you could just run a short vertical block and sister it to the stud instead of a whole additional stud.
How do you insulate a shed floor?
I have an 20 year old 8'x8' already poured concrete slab and I'm thinking of having an aluminum shed there. I know this video is 4 years old but if anyone can tell me how best to anchor the shed into the concrete?
So I’ve never used osb between the header boards. Depending on 2x4 or 2x6 framing, ive used that 1/2” or 1” extra space to put some insulation. To make the header more energy efficient. I don’t do this for a living though. Just doing my own windows, and family/friends windows. I’ve never had any of them have an issue. Is there a problem with doing this though?
I don't think so really, but someone could maybe split hairs and say that the osb sandwich makes it more stable. The 2x6 or whatever could warp because it's just regular wood, but the osb wont move.
And it just makes up the 1/2" difference you have between the width of a 2x4 (3.5") and the height of two 2x4s stacked up (3"). When you make that sandwich, your header can sit right on top of the king studs and be flush with the outside and inside walls. If they weren't it would make walls on one or both sides difficult to finish over the header.
Hello, a quick question.. are these 4x2 ? they look smaller, right?
yes, for 1 level buildings this is enough
Just add a little felt under the sole plate.
Would you silicone under the base plate to make that water tight?
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You skipped right over the one thing i wanted to see ... if the anchor bolts are already set in foundation, how do you drill all the bottom plate holes in the right place? If i measure or eyeball it they are always just a little out of alignment ... PITA
Set your bottom plate where you want it. Take a hammer drill (or rotary hammer), and drill holes through both bottom plate and slab where you need them to be.
Close to that property line?
That depends on local codes.
Absolutely
Love the videos and quality work
just ordered the *WoodBlueprints. Com* guide for step-by-step videos and different plans to BUILD A SHED. they have some awesome plans in there
is this up to code in Florida?
Too close to property line!