I don't mean to sound critical of such an incredible build but I am surprised that you left the gap between the saucer sections instead of filling them. I'm also surprised that kit has those grid lines.. that debate was put to rest the last time the Smithsonian re-restored the filming model. The grid lines that were put there by the previous destroyer, er, restorer of the Enterprise were indeed wrong. It had some lightly penciled grid lines on it, but they were never visible.
Criticism accepted. The gap was not too apparent when it first got put together. I had to paint all the parts before construction because of all the electronics that was inside. Over the course of the build, making the base, that gap started to show more, I didn’t want to make it worse buy trying to fill and repaint, so I left it. Your right re the grid lines, the original was pencilled on, but my choice for this kit was purely for its size. Thank you for looking.
@@ScaleMarkModels All logical.. building a model is very much a fluid process! The line does match the rest of the lines.. not having light leaks is more important. It is an awesome build, especially with the etched glass stand. Tribbles are in the red! 😂 Seriously, I learned some great tips and your sharing is very much appreciated! It's a beautiful model!
@@ScaleMarkModels I'm just spitballing here because you are much more advanced than I am, but I'm curious if you'd be able to tint some water-soluble putty that could be wiped off instead of sanded.. I have a 1:350 refit that I still want to build.. so I'm trying to learn as many tricks as possible. The fact that you were able to get such incredible results with a 1:600 is quite impressive!
Your 1:350 refit should come together far better than this kit. You can you water putty, various on the market, but when they dry it shrinks so you need to build it up otherwise you will always see the joint. There will be sanding to get a perfect seam. Then just repaint. I did this with with seams lines to the two halves of the main body. Took several days to get right..
@@ScaleMarkModels I appreciate the tips. I've done the 1:600 A, but I didn't light it. I've just had some good luck filling in seams after the paint was put on. It's never perfect but it tends to look better than the seam, depending on the situation, of course.
Most of the lighting was put on that side that is shown as I was always having it in that direction. When I decided to have the schematics picture mounted on acrylic I realised it was facing the other way. I deliberated whether to switch it to both facing the same way, but changed my mind as more lighting effect got the better of me.
Thank you for looking in. It’s the Revell 1/600 scale kit. The lighting, internal shuttle bay and bridge are extras. I will be doing step by step full build video very soon. Mark
Fantastic job!!!...Where did you get the graphic? I have seen those before, but always small. Yours looks like it is high resolution. Can I get an electronic file of that graphic?
Hi Bill, thank you for you kind words. I had been searching for a Star Trek schematics to use as my base, and found lots of thumb nail pictures myself. I then found the photo here. I had to purchase the digital download licence from the link below. The quality of the print is superb. All the best www.etsy.com/uk/listing/173557059
I did most of the lighting myself. The only part I bought and installed was the board for operating the lighting effects for the Bussard’s. The guy I got the board from does a new complete kit for the Revell kit I built. You’ll need to solder all the components, but you get everything. Here is the link, I hope that helps. Mark www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283475538982
Almost in the red on the tribbles! 😂
Nice touch to a beautiful build!
Very nice model. The board is almost even more beautiful. Very creative. Roddenberry would definitely like it.
Thank you
Love those 😍 nacelles
I just checked out a bunch of your videos...you do really great work. Cheers
Thank you Dave. Your comment is very much appreciated.
@@ScaleMarkModels You bet! Thanks for presenting me with some cool stuff to gawk at on youtube!
JUST WOW🖖
Bravo!
My inner nerd is envious. Ha!
I don't mean to sound critical of such an incredible build but I am surprised that you left the gap between the saucer sections instead of filling them.
I'm also surprised that kit has those grid lines.. that debate was put to rest the last time the Smithsonian re-restored the filming model. The grid lines that were put there by the previous destroyer, er, restorer of the Enterprise were indeed wrong. It had some lightly penciled grid lines on it, but they were never visible.
Criticism accepted. The gap was not too apparent when it first got put together. I had to paint all the parts before construction because of all the electronics that was inside. Over the course of the build, making the base, that gap started to show more, I didn’t want to make it worse buy trying to fill and repaint, so I left it.
Your right re the grid lines, the original was pencilled on, but my choice for this kit was purely for its size.
Thank you for looking.
@@ScaleMarkModels All logical.. building a model is very much a fluid process! The line does match the rest of the lines.. not having light leaks is more important. It is an awesome build, especially with the etched glass stand. Tribbles are in the red! 😂
Seriously, I learned some great tips and your sharing is very much appreciated! It's a beautiful model!
@@ScaleMarkModels I'm just spitballing here because you are much more advanced than I am, but I'm curious if you'd be able to tint some water-soluble putty that could be wiped off instead of sanded..
I have a 1:350 refit that I still want to build.. so I'm trying to learn as many tricks as possible. The fact that you were able to get such incredible results with a 1:600 is quite impressive!
Your 1:350 refit should come together far better than this kit. You can you water putty, various on the market, but when they dry it shrinks so you need to build it up otherwise you will always see the joint. There will be sanding to get a perfect seam. Then just repaint. I did this with with seams lines to the two halves of the main body. Took several days to get right..
@@ScaleMarkModels I appreciate the tips. I've done the 1:600 A, but I didn't light it. I've just had some good luck filling in seams after the paint was put on. It's never perfect but it tends to look better than the seam, depending on the situation, of course.
Great Build!. I have 1 question. Why isnt the model mounted in the same direction as the diagram under it??
Most of the lighting was put on that side that is shown as I was always having it in that direction. When I decided to have the schematics picture mounted on acrylic I realised it was facing the other way. I deliberated whether to switch it to both facing the same way, but changed my mind as more lighting effect got the better of me.
Very fancy dust collector 😂😂
This looks absolutely great! What scale is it?
Thank you for looking in. It’s the Revell 1/600 scale kit. The lighting, internal shuttle bay and bridge are extras. I will be doing step by step full build video very soon.
Mark
ua-cam.com/video/YnXnX347WoQ/v-deo.html
Fantastic job!!!...Where did you get the graphic? I have seen those before, but always small. Yours looks like it is high resolution. Can I get an electronic file of that graphic?
Hi Bill, thank you for you kind words.
I had been searching for a Star Trek schematics to use as my base, and found lots of thumb nail pictures myself. I then found the photo here. I had to purchase the digital download licence from the link below. The quality of the print is superb.
All the best
www.etsy.com/uk/listing/173557059
@@ScaleMarkModels Thank you for the link!!!!
Curious if the electronics came as a kit or did you make everything yourself, I’m looking for rotating Bussard collector lights for my 1/537 kit
I did most of the lighting myself. The only part I bought and installed was the board for operating the lighting effects for the Bussard’s. The guy I got the board from does a new complete kit for the Revell kit I built. You’ll need to solder all the components, but you get everything. Here is the link, I hope that helps.
Mark
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283475538982