I appreciate your saying that. One of the biggest reasons I focus so much on them is because so many videos and how-tos just breeze by that part, but they aren’t that intuitive, especially when they’re hard to see/reach. Glad it’s helpful! :)
I would double check that it is clicked in all the way before the red tab is clicked in. Also ensure that both connections are intact and don’t have cracks.
@CamaroChris I went out and looked at it again. I didn't put a screw back in on the engine cover because it was striped. With out it, it was sucking air in through the screw hole.
Thanks very much for making this video. I actually had my laptop in the garage and followed your instructions exactly. I had a little trouble with the electrical connectors but I appreciate you showing how to properly release them. Most of all thanks for saving me money!
Oh man - I’ll take mine to a shop for an estimate whenever I decide I’m going to be lazy and have someone else do the work. The best motivation is when they tell me a job is going to cost over $1000. Every time I think, well, guess I’m doing that too! Glad it helped!!!
Thank You for the Video, what a pain, next time will be easier. I had the error code and the A/C problem so I changed my thermostat and the sensor since it was right there. Problem solved all set. Great video, much appreciation for you!!!
Thanks for the video, did this yesterday. I did not remove the sensors or separate the metal from the plastic and that speeds it up a bit. Took about 3-4 hours with some interruption and letting block cool before torquing plugs. Very sore from lying across the engine bay though.
Great job/video, 1 handed for the most part too. I have the same vehicle and your video has given me the confidence needed to tackle this overly complex maintenance. Just hate to take any of my vehicles to a dealer when I can figure things out myself and your video really helped. Can't begin to guess the cost of having this done at a GM dealer, ouch! Thanks. ...... Ivan.
My GMC dealer quoted $700 to change the plugs. They claimed it requires new intake manifold gaskets. I've never seen anyone change them in these videos.
That thing on the back right side is the Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve. Also, you're supposed to tighten the intake manifold from the center bolts and work your way out to the outside bolts. In a criss cross pattern. Good video other wise.
Great video. Haven't been able to track down a hard copy repair manual for the 19 Colorado, but you said what torque spec the plus and all bolts were. Thank you. I'll be using a paint pen to mark those specs near each part. Im OCD like that. I'll be doing this on my own soon. Great video. TY
Getting that rear bolt out is a bear! The socket came off and fell and then the extension. Got the socket out, but not the extension. I crossed my fingers it wouldn't fall into the valve chamber when I removed the manifold, which was a challenge too. Got the manifold off and recovered the extension. Valves looked dirty so gonna add some fuel additive for a few cycles.
that won't clean the valves as this engine in direct injection, the fuel never hits the valves. you need to run a MAP/MAF sensor friendly cleaner through the intake as the engine is running to clean the valves.
I own a 2016 Colorado truck LT, 2.5engine,102000 miles. Had to do some major repairs torque convertor had to be replaced with a new oil tank replace cost me in the $3.7 k at a Cheverolet dealership, They also recommend to have the spark plugs replace and valve cover reseal and serpentine replace at a total cost of 1200k. I have no choice but to pay for repairs its cheaper than buying a new or used truck with the inflation prices but If I knew then the Colorado truck had major problems especially with torque going so soon, I never would have bought it for sure. Thanks for showing how to do the reseal and plugs on the Colorado. how much do you charge for resealing the valve cover and plugs? Thanks.
I know it’s kinda long, but if you didn’t watch the whole video I recommend you do. I go step by step how I get everything off…sometimes I revisit some topics if I need to.
The good old days of pulling the plug wires and taking out the plugs are gone. Nice job! What would a mechanic charge for that? Good thing is with these modern engines it's not necessary to change plugs as often these days.
Did you look at the intake valves while you had the intake manifold off? I'm curious if there were any carbon deposits on the valves as is common with most direct injected engines.
I just used this video today and I did look down into the valves. Yikes they look really dirty and gummed up! But I was in no position to clean it as I only had the tools to do the plugs. I will run some seafoam soon and see if that helps?! 2019 Colorado V6 171,000kms (101,000miles)
@@leecustodio8343 You can't upload them directly to the comments but if you load them to a photo hosting site, web page, or a Facebook page you can post a link to the pictures in the comments (as long as this channel allows posting links in the comments)
@@leecustodio8343seafoam or whatever won’t do anything for carbon deposits on the intake valves. The only way to clean them is with manually with the intake off.
Will do this tomorrow with my 2017 Canyon 3.6 V6 while watching on my laptop. Once you get the intake off what is the best way to clean the debris without anything at all falling in?
Thanks for the video! I just got this done on my 2018 Z71, couldn’t have done it without this video. Question for you and the masses: the radiator fan stays on now for awhile, and the temp gauge is staying at 160. I didn’t disconnect the battery when I did the spark plug change (guess I should’ve after all), any clue what that issue might be? I’m going to disconnect/reconnect the battery now and see if that resolves it.
Not sure - my guess would be if you accidentally disconnected or bumped the cooling fan switch or temp sensor? Could just be something that failed coincidentally like maybe the thermostat? I don’t know what impact leaving the battery connected had, if any, but I always do it as best practice just because it only takes an extra minute and prevents things from going wonky or surging if something shorts… It also helps reset everything once plugged back in. Those are just guesses on my part…
The thermostat is sticking open. The computer sees an anomaly and commands the fan to run constantly. Mine had the same symptoms and I replaced the thermostat, problem solved.
@JamesSterling my 2020 3.6L WT 2WD had a similar issue and it wound up being a faulty thermostat and front VVT solenoids. Apparently GM/AC Delco just had a bad batch and my dealership took care of it.
I'm watching this video as I do the steps as shown. I got the P0300 / P0302 on my 2020 Colorado V6. It's only got 76k miles but I think I push-flooded the plugs by putting too much oil in her. Hoping I don't gotta do all the gaskets and seals too. I'm not exactly what I would call a mechanic. What could possibly go wrong? I'm about to take off the manifold~
Fuuuuck. The 4" extension fell to the side on that last captured bolt in the back back. I even taped the socket onto the end to make sure IT didn't fall off. The whole extension slipped sideways off the nut. Gotta dig up a powerful magnet or something. Any suggestions?
I have 2016 4x4 3.6.V6 it has the CEL random misfires, and stabilitrack and traction control faults. Only has 59,965 miles. Read all diff causes the most common is spark plugs or PLUG 1 PLUG . Coil pack all the way to bad cylinder rebuild your motor.. Screw that, Any experiences with this problem or advice. Im going to change plugs right off . Mine has no heat shields and only #2 is inaccessible due to intake?? Wonder if someone been in it abd removed heat shields??? . Thanks For video,any help greatly appreciated.
Nice job on the video. I did this about a year ago myself because the dealer was trying to charge $675 and that was without the spark plugs. Little bit time consuming but if you have general mechanic knowledge its totally worth it. Bolts in the back are what make this job annoying. Wish car manufactures would stop letting engineers have there way and consult mechanics before production. How many miles do you have on your truck and how has the transmission been?
Transmission has been great. I did get a trans fluid flush at 87,000 miles for a shudder. That took care of the shudder and it runs beautifully. Currently has 93k on it. I just keep up the maintenance and it drives like a dream!
I've been working at a Chevy dealership as a lube tech for 2 years. I've probably done over 100 transmission flushes on different Chevy's and unless you have a big truck, the trans fluid on the smaller stuff usually looks pretty bad by 60k miles. I usually check at 45k miles and most of the time the fluid loses it's cherry red color. If you drive your truck nice I'd recommend every 60k miles for the Colorado's if you want to never have problems. 87k miles on transfluid makes every Chevy Ive seen close to black if not black.
@@Blueturtlej47 I'm like 90% sure if you have the v6 it should have a a drain a fill. The fill hole can be hard to get to and you'll need a small fluid pump with tubes to get the fluid in the right place. I'd take the trans pan off and replace the filter to, you'll get more of the old fluid out that way.shoulf have a fill bolt as well
how were you intake valves when you pulled the manifold off? were they carboned up or were they still good to go? how long would you say the process to remove and reinstall the manifold would take?
My intake valves were in good shape. Very clean. Well, it’s hard to really say, it took me a full day, but doing all the recordings added a bit of time. I’d say about a four hour total job if you’re proficient with a wrench…
I don’t see why not. As long as you aren’t destroying anything with crazy amounts of pressure and the cylinder isn’t otherwise exposed to contaminants… I’d probably just try to get a shop vac with extension and suck anything out though…
Can replacement insulators on both sides (shown at the 13:25 mark) be purchased? Mine are saturated in oil from leaking valve head and solenoid sensors. All replaced, but oil still leaking onto exhaust coming from this area. It’s been into the shop 8 times and they think it is from residual oil soaked in leaking out of these insulation covers. They said they couldn’t clean them and didn’t think they could be purchased. I just found valve cover insulators ( left and right) online, but I’m not certain they are the same as these.
Put it back. It protects everything underneath and insulates everything above. I guess technically maybe you could go without it? But I wouldn’t…also the studs are all sealed as part of it so…
Nah - they were in good shape so I didn’t feel like I needed to. But “they” always recommend replacing them whenever you remove it… I suppose if you dislike the job enough I’d recommend replacing anything you can. But it’s honestly not the worst job on a car I’ve ever done…
That connector you remove at 3:53 is different on my truck, and I cant seem to get it off. Once the clip is slid out there is nothing there to squeeze because it's now buried by the clip. Fuck I hate GM! Yup, the connectors are quite different than the ones you deal with. Again, I hate GM!
You are the first person I've watched that knows how to properly remove the electrical connectors😃
I appreciate your saying that. One of the biggest reasons I focus so much on them is because so many videos and how-tos just breeze by that part, but they aren’t that intuitive, especially when they’re hard to see/reach. Glad it’s helpful! :)
Hey Chris, thanks for the video. I did my VVT exhaust solenoids today. Since I had it all apart I went ahead and did the spark plugs too.
I would double check that it is clicked in all the way before the red tab is clicked in. Also ensure that both connections are intact and don’t have cracks.
@CamaroChris I went out and looked at it again. I didn't put a screw back in on the engine cover because it was striped. With out it, it was sucking air in through the screw hole.
Thanks very much for making this video. I actually had my laptop in the garage and followed your instructions exactly. I had a little trouble with the electrical connectors but I appreciate you showing how to properly release them. Most of all thanks for saving me money!
Oh man - I’ll take mine to a shop for an estimate whenever I decide I’m going to be lazy and have someone else do the work. The best motivation is when they tell me a job is going to cost over $1000. Every time I think, well, guess I’m doing that too!
Glad it helped!!!
What a pain in the ass for plugs!!! Thanks for the video.
Thank You for the Video, what a pain, next time will be easier. I had the error code and the A/C problem so I changed my thermostat and the sensor since it was right there. Problem solved all set. Great video, much
appreciation for you!!!
Always glad to hear stories like this! Glad it helped.
Best I've seen so far!
Thanks for the video, did this yesterday. I did not remove the sensors or separate the metal from the plastic and that speeds it up a bit. Took about 3-4 hours with some interruption and letting block cool before torquing plugs. Very sore from lying across the engine bay though.
Great job/video, 1 handed for the most part too. I have the same vehicle and your video has given me the confidence needed to tackle this overly complex maintenance. Just hate to take any of my vehicles to a dealer when I can figure things out myself and your video really helped. Can't begin to guess the cost of having this done at a GM dealer, ouch! Thanks. ...... Ivan.
My GMC dealer quoted $700 to change the plugs. They claimed it requires new intake manifold gaskets. I've never seen anyone change them in these videos.
My local dealer just quoted me like $930
great video thx fyi your throattle body was super clean!!!!!
That thing on the back right side is the Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve. Also, you're supposed to tighten the intake manifold from the center bolts and work your way out to the outside bolts. In a criss cross pattern. Good video other wise.
Thank you!! :)
Great video. Haven't been able to track down a hard copy repair manual for the 19 Colorado, but you said what torque spec the plus and all bolts were. Thank you. I'll be using a paint pen to mark those specs near each part. Im OCD like that. I'll be doing this on my own soon. Great video. TY
Getting that rear bolt out is a bear! The socket came off and fell and then the extension. Got the socket out, but not the extension. I crossed my fingers it wouldn't fall into the valve chamber when I removed the manifold, which was a challenge too. Got the manifold off and recovered the extension. Valves looked dirty so gonna add some fuel additive for a few cycles.
that won't clean the valves as this engine in direct injection, the fuel never hits the valves. you need to run a MAP/MAF sensor friendly cleaner through the intake as the engine is running to clean the valves.
Ngl I ripped the whole manifold cover straight off before even trying to get to it. Torques work on the "triangle" screws
Thank you for this. I’m about to tackle the plugs and also the ECT sensor near the thermostat housing. This video will help me tremendously.
Awesome! I’m so glad it’s helping people! Good luck, take it a step at a time, and enjoy the work!
I own a 2016 Colorado truck LT, 2.5engine,102000 miles. Had to do some major repairs torque convertor had to be replaced with a new oil tank replace cost me in the $3.7 k at a Cheverolet dealership, They also recommend to have the spark plugs replace and valve cover reseal and serpentine replace at a total cost of 1200k. I have no choice but to pay for repairs its cheaper than buying a new or used truck with the inflation prices but If I knew then the Colorado truck had major problems especially with torque going so soon, I never would have bought it for sure. Thanks for showing how to do the reseal and plugs on the Colorado. how much do you charge for resealing the valve cover and plugs? Thanks.
Thanks for the videos. The visuals is just what I needed..
How’d you manage to get it out without taking the wiper cowl apart? Mine feels like there’s less space
I know it’s kinda long, but if you didn’t watch the whole video I recommend you do. I go step by step how I get everything off…sometimes I revisit some topics if I need to.
Thanks for the video! It just helped me alot today! Got the plugs done 👍
Thats the purge valve at 30:00 min mark where youre asking what part that is.
Thank you!!
The good old days of pulling the plug wires and taking out the plugs are gone. Nice job! What would a mechanic charge for that? Good thing is with these modern engines it's not necessary to change plugs as often these days.
Just got a quote for $500 for new spark plugs!
My guess was $1k - but I have no idea. $500 is crazy too!
760 bucks in California to change the plugs
Great video, was able to change mine no problem. Thanks!
Did you look at the intake valves while you had the intake manifold off? I'm curious if there were any carbon deposits on the valves as is common with most direct injected engines.
I did not look - sorry 😬
I just used this video today and I did look down into the valves. Yikes they look really dirty and gummed up! But I was in no position to clean it as I only had the tools to do the plugs. I will run some seafoam soon and see if that helps?! 2019 Colorado V6 171,000kms (101,000miles)
I have pics, but not sure how I can upload it here?!
@@leecustodio8343 You can't upload them directly to the comments but if you load them to a photo hosting site, web page, or a Facebook page you can post a link to the pictures in the comments (as long as this channel allows posting links in the comments)
@@leecustodio8343seafoam or whatever won’t do anything for carbon deposits on the intake valves. The only way to clean them is with manually with the intake off.
Will do this tomorrow with my 2017 Canyon 3.6 V6 while watching on my laptop. Once you get the intake off what is the best way to clean the debris without anything at all falling in?
Vacuum with attachment and a little extra care is how I did it.
Beautiful video brother. Keep posting!
Got a few more in the works! Stay tuned!
Sheesh what a pain just to replace the spark plugs. Still doable though, I'll need to do it to my truck at some point. Thanks for the video 👍
Lol, right!? It wasn’t too bad though, I enjoyed it. I’ve definitely done worse jobs.
Thanks for the video! I just got this done on my 2018 Z71, couldn’t have done it without this video. Question for you and the masses: the radiator fan stays on now for awhile, and the temp gauge is staying at 160. I didn’t disconnect the battery when I did the spark plug change (guess I should’ve after all), any clue what that issue might be? I’m going to disconnect/reconnect the battery now and see if that resolves it.
Not sure - my guess would be if you accidentally disconnected or bumped the cooling fan switch or temp sensor? Could just be something that failed coincidentally like maybe the thermostat? I don’t know what impact leaving the battery connected had, if any, but I always do it as best practice just because it only takes an extra minute and prevents things from going wonky or surging if something shorts… It also helps reset everything once plugged back in. Those are just guesses on my part…
Check out this thread from Reddit. Maybe that will help…
www.reddit.com/r/chevycolorado/comments/zwhluh/temp_gauge_reads_160_and_fan_stays_on/
The thermostat is sticking open. The computer sees an anomaly and commands the fan to run constantly. Mine had the same symptoms and I replaced the thermostat, problem solved.
@JamesSterling my 2020 3.6L WT 2WD had a similar issue and it wound up being a faulty thermostat and front VVT solenoids. Apparently GM/AC Delco just had a bad batch and my dealership took care of it.
I'm watching this video as I do the steps as shown. I got the P0300 / P0302 on my 2020 Colorado V6.
It's only got 76k miles but I think I push-flooded the plugs by putting too much oil in her. Hoping I don't gotta do all the gaskets and seals too.
I'm not exactly what I would call a mechanic. What could possibly go wrong?
I'm about to take off the manifold~
Fuuuuck.
The 4" extension fell to the side on that last captured bolt in the back back. I even taped the socket onto the end to make sure IT didn't fall off. The whole extension slipped sideways off the nut.
Gotta dig up a powerful magnet or something. Any suggestions?
You got this!
No suggestions. Grab the magnet ha. You can buy the telescoping one
That part you couldn't identify, it's the Evaporative Emission Cannister Purge Solenoid Valve
I like the sticker on your desk 😁
its a good idea to put some dielectric grease on your coil-pack connectors as well after disconnecting them.
Nice job, great video and helped alot
Thanks - glad it helped!
I have 2016 4x4 3.6.V6 it has the CEL random misfires, and stabilitrack and traction control faults. Only has 59,965 miles. Read all diff causes the most common is spark plugs or PLUG 1 PLUG . Coil pack all the way to bad cylinder rebuild your motor.. Screw that, Any experiences with this problem or advice. Im going to change plugs right off . Mine has no heat shields and only #2 is inaccessible due to intake?? Wonder if someone been in it abd removed heat shields??? . Thanks For video,any help greatly appreciated.
My bottom right screw/bolt was already loose exactly like yours was. Imagine that?
Well that’s odd…
Nice job on the video. I did this about a year ago myself because the dealer was trying to charge $675 and that was without the spark plugs. Little bit time consuming but if you have general mechanic knowledge its totally worth it. Bolts in the back are what make this job annoying. Wish car manufactures would stop letting engineers have there way and consult mechanics before production. How many miles do you have on your truck and how has the transmission been?
Transmission has been great. I did get a trans fluid flush at 87,000 miles for a shudder. That took care of the shudder and it runs beautifully. Currently has 93k on it. I just keep up the maintenance and it drives like a dream!
I've been working at a Chevy dealership as a lube tech for 2 years. I've probably done over 100 transmission flushes on different Chevy's and unless you have a big truck, the trans fluid on the smaller stuff usually looks pretty bad by 60k miles. I usually check at 45k miles and most of the time the fluid loses it's cherry red color. If you drive your truck nice I'd recommend every 60k miles for the Colorado's if you want to never have problems. 87k miles on transfluid makes every Chevy Ive seen close to black if not black.
Am I able to change the fluid myself or is it one of those things you have to take it in
@@Blueturtlej47 I'm like 90% sure if you have the v6 it should have a a drain a fill. The fill hole can be hard to get to and you'll need a small fluid pump with tubes to get the fluid in the right place. I'd take the trans pan off and replace the filter to, you'll get more of the old fluid out that way.shoulf have a fill bolt as well
Did you end up changing out the VVT solenoid, all mine look like they need a little help I don't know if it's the seals or the vtt itself.
I do that in another video, without removing the intake. If you need it you can do it while it’s out. Not much easier
how were you intake valves when you pulled the manifold off? were they carboned up or were they still good to go?
how long would you say the process to remove and reinstall the manifold would take?
My intake valves were in good shape. Very clean. Well, it’s hard to really say, it took me a full day, but doing all the recordings added a bit of time. I’d say about a four hour total job if you’re proficient with a wrench…
I'm guessing the intake gaskets stay in place pretty well it didn't seem like you were worried about them getting out of place?
Correct. They squish into small recesses that hold them in via friction
Very helpful thank you
Would it be wise to blow air in plug hole after removing coil and before removing the plug.
I don’t see why not. As long as you aren’t destroying anything with crazy amounts of pressure and the cylinder isn’t otherwise exposed to contaminants… I’d probably just try to get a shop vac with extension and suck anything out though…
Awesome video. Do you have one going over how to replace the intake gaskets?
I do not as of now. But feel free to subscribe, I have more jobs coming up I’ll be working on and documenting.
Wow, I could change all 8 plugs in my jeep by the time you take the cover off. Why do they make stuff so complicated these days?
Honestly it was still a much easier job than plugs and wires on my 87 Camaro lol.
Can replacement insulators on both sides (shown at the 13:25 mark) be purchased? Mine are saturated in oil from leaking valve head and solenoid sensors. All replaced, but oil still leaking onto exhaust coming from this area. It’s been into the shop 8 times and they think it is from residual oil soaked in leaking out of these insulation covers. They said they couldn’t clean them and didn’t think they could be purchased. I just found valve cover insulators ( left and right) online, but I’m not certain they are the same as these.
I truly don’t know. If GM doesn’t sell the parts I doubt someone has reproduced them yet…
My 2016 3.6 does not have them I'm looking right at my coil packs when I pop hood?¿? Don't know if that's a good or bad thing? LoL
Question: on the big plastic cap piece up to the 7:36 mark: can i just leave it out or is it necessary to have and put back?
Put it back. It protects everything underneath and insulates everything above. I guess technically maybe you could go without it? But I wouldn’t…also the studs are all sealed as part of it so…
Did you need any gaskets or seals to do the job?
I did not. Although you’ll want to check any that you remove and replace them if they feel hard or are torn (intake manifold gaskets are the big one)
How many miles did you have on the truck ?
Just shy of 100,000
That's a lot of work to change spark plugs
It is a long process …but relatively not too difficult…
Do you have torque specs for every that comes off.
I don’t have a readily available list - but if I have them I say what they are when I tighten them.
Did you replace the intake manifold gasket
Did you replace the intake gaskets?
Nah - they were in good shape so I didn’t feel like I needed to. But “they” always recommend replacing them whenever you remove it… I suppose if you dislike the job enough I’d recommend replacing anything you can. But it’s honestly not the worst job on a car I’ve ever done…
Awesome. Thanks again!
Thanks
Sure. I hope it helped!
That connector you remove at 3:53 is different on my truck, and I cant seem to get it off. Once the clip is slid out there is nothing there to squeeze because it's now buried by the clip. Fuck I hate GM!
Yup, the connectors are quite different than the ones you deal with. Again, I hate GM!
Best I've seen so far!
Great to hear - glad it helped!