Gonna be honest... if I'd made a blob like that I wouldn't have tried to fix it. I'd have just removed the whole hotend and replaced it, then printed off a nice stand to proudly display my masterpiece.
I had issues with my Q1 Pro when i first got it freezing when using the chamber heater but the fix was just changing the control board fan from .6 to 1.0 and now it is printing everything i throw at it...all the way up to nylon and PC all prints have been absolutely perfect with the 100% best first layers i have ever seen out of all my printers. Tolerances are the best ive ever seen as well.
So my MMU3 has been running all week long. I used prusament galaxy black as one of the filaments. It's been laying around for about a year (It came with the mk4). I put it in the dryer, but I had a big piece sticking out. That piece snapped on me. That was my first legit MMU3 fail (it was also the first time it tried to use that specific filament) so that's 100% on me. I eventually had another fail on the same filament. A smaller piece appears to have snapped, but I'm not 100%. So I think that's also on me. I wasn't paying attention when it happened. My legit fail was using a filament I call nude. It's esun PLA+. For whatever reason it wasn't loaded correctly (in spite of being loaded for almost 2000 tool changes now). I had to reload it and I cut off the tip for good measure. I'm chalking that up to the MMU3's fault. So nearly 2000 changes. 3 failures. 1 was user error for sure. 1 was probably user error. And the other I have no idea what happened, but I'm blaming the mmu. Not bad! I can promise that the nude filament would have failed 50 times at least on the MMU2S.
Tip for tempered Glass, It really only is susceptible to impacts on the edges. So, you can put that trim like is sold for car door protection around the perimeter (it is U shaped) That along with the recommendation of a film on both sides makes for a very durable glass surface. Obviously, it needs clearance so It's not gonna help a Bambu, but if you make something and use Tempered Glass keep this in mind.
Fun to see my print fail make it. Kinda the result of just sending a 19 hour print without tuning for new filament. Still surprised how well the fail recovered, it’s now “Art”.
In high school around 2006… ish. My drafting teacher was in charge of the school budget and got the first 3D printer in the district and it was powder and resin, I think. It’s been awhile. But we used it all the time and as much as I love resin and FDM, powder based 3D printing is my favorite. If the details are there for minis… I’m getting it.
Filament Extruders with A "BP" Back pressure and "MI" melt index gauge (AKA pressure transducer) would see this filament surging also your amp draw from the main motor will be surging too but I do agree it is likely from a cold start up rushing the set up or contamination of materials will do this too either way its a set up issue "operator" a few PC pellets in a ASA run would do this for example or from a poorly cleaned out hopper, inline feeder or hopper loader will contaminate the loaded resin from an ill clean out, when the barrel and screw tolerance is wore out this can also happen as the correct BP is not achieved for consistent extrusions from a barrel and screw extruder, its hard to say for sure but even incorrect screen packs can be an issue if your screws LD ratio is out for the material your running even compression ratio could induce this more so during start up from cold you did say it was PP so heats are important as well and PP has a wicked frost line like HDPE
yes please for the prosumer to light industrial pipeline. lol. would I love to have a $20,000 machine to work with, yes, is it going to happen any time soon, no.
The prusa satin sheet works for PP without any tape at all. It's not great, but it does work. I don't even have an enclosure. It tends to warp slightly, but I can get usable prints as long as it's not too cold in the room. I think it's actually hot enough out now that I can print it.
5:42 glazier here, it is very rare but toughened or tempered glass can spontaneously pop, it is crazy rare but it does happen. Toughened/tempered glass can handle chamber temperatures plenty fine. But yes clear film will save the mess. Also just so you know all toughened glass is not toughened around the edges (about 3-4mm) so if there is a pinch point on the edge it can pop very easily. 👍🇦🇺😊
#PrintFixFriday i seem to get issues with PETG sticking to the build plate (pei) it’s a ESUN one it seems to not like to stick at all i used glue stick magicgoo and also have the temp pretty high, the bed level is definitely ok as i did let it calibrate several times. It seems to stick so well though on the poi that it destroys the build plate. So i‘m sort of stuck between holds so well that the build plate gets destroyed or sticking not at all..
So my first MMU3 project is The Helpful Fox Senko San on CG-Trader for $10. I printed several test prints of her head to calibrate the colors (nude, red, black, and silk white). The default (65mm down from 140 in the MMU2s) purge was not enough for lipstick red (also laying out in the open for a year so why did that not have issues when galaxy black didn't?) or galaxy black. Eventually I got a print that was good enough because the areas that I was concerned about would be covered in the final assembly anyway. So then I printed the hair. It didn't fit. Then I remembered I scaled her up. It still didn't fit without breaking it. Since the head was only 4 colors, I decided to print the hair on the head. That did the trick. I saw it while printing. It's a super tight fit. So having the hair as a separate piece is a failure on their part IMO. I still have to do a crap ton of painting though. I guess I'll print the larger non multi-color parts next since I want to print her arms and torso at the same time to reduce the overall color changes. Sadly this model wasn't designed with multi-color in mind. smart painting doesn't work on most of it. I have to do it by hand. And while her outfit is white, she's got a lot of red dashes on it. I have to paint each and every single dash. lol
Gonna be honest... if I'd made a blob like that I wouldn't have tried to fix it. I'd have just removed the whole hotend and replaced it, then printed off a nice stand to proudly display my masterpiece.
That's what I'm saying! Joel too apparently!
I had issues with my Q1 Pro when i first got it freezing when using the chamber heater but the fix was just changing the control board fan from .6 to 1.0 and now it is printing everything i throw at it...all the way up to nylon and PC all prints have been absolutely perfect with the 100% best first layers i have ever seen out of all my printers. Tolerances are the best ive ever seen as well.
So my MMU3 has been running all week long. I used prusament galaxy black as one of the filaments. It's been laying around for about a year (It came with the mk4). I put it in the dryer, but I had a big piece sticking out. That piece snapped on me. That was my first legit MMU3 fail (it was also the first time it tried to use that specific filament) so that's 100% on me. I eventually had another fail on the same filament. A smaller piece appears to have snapped, but I'm not 100%. So I think that's also on me. I wasn't paying attention when it happened. My legit fail was using a filament I call nude. It's esun PLA+. For whatever reason it wasn't loaded correctly (in spite of being loaded for almost 2000 tool changes now). I had to reload it and I cut off the tip for good measure. I'm chalking that up to the MMU3's fault. So nearly 2000 changes. 3 failures. 1 was user error for sure. 1 was probably user error. And the other I have no idea what happened, but I'm blaming the mmu. Not bad! I can promise that the nude filament would have failed 50 times at least on the MMU2S.
Tip for tempered Glass, It really only is susceptible to impacts on the edges. So, you can put that trim like is sold for car door protection around the perimeter (it is U shaped) That along with the recommendation of a film on both sides makes for a very durable glass surface. Obviously, it needs clearance so It's not gonna help a Bambu, but if you make something and use Tempered Glass keep this in mind.
Fun to see my print fail make it. Kinda the result of just sending a 19 hour print without tuning for new filament. Still surprised how well the fail recovered, it’s now “Art”.
Well could you ask them to update the vcore 3 documentation please ? Asking for a friend 😂
lololololol
Bambu decides to become a PLA model.
In high school around 2006… ish. My drafting teacher was in charge of the school budget and got the first 3D printer in the district and it was powder and resin, I think. It’s been awhile. But we used it all the time and as much as I love resin and FDM, powder based 3D printing is my favorite. If the details are there for minis… I’m getting it.
50th
Are you ever going to join the super nerds on Mastodon? There’s a thriving 3d printing community over there (including Chris Pirillo from Maker Deck!)
Filament Extruders with A "BP" Back pressure and "MI" melt index gauge (AKA pressure transducer) would see this filament surging also your amp draw from the main motor will be surging too but I do agree it is likely from a cold start up rushing the set up or contamination of materials will do this too either way its a set up issue "operator" a few PC pellets in a ASA run would do this for example or from a poorly cleaned out hopper, inline feeder or hopper loader will contaminate the loaded resin from an ill clean out, when the barrel and screw tolerance is wore out this can also happen as the correct BP is not achieved for consistent extrusions from a barrel and screw extruder, its hard to say for sure but even incorrect screen packs can be an issue if your screws LD ratio is out for the material your running even compression ratio could induce this more so during start up from cold you did say it was PP so heats are important as well and PP has a wicked frost line like HDPE
yes please for the prosumer to light industrial pipeline. lol. would I love to have a $20,000 machine to work with, yes, is it going to happen any time soon, no.
The prusa satin sheet works for PP without any tape at all. It's not great, but it does work. I don't even have an enclosure. It tends to warp slightly, but I can get usable prints as long as it's not too cold in the room. I think it's actually hot enough out now that I can print it.
But, But, I can't use a already wrecked printer to try for something glorious?
that is a blob of doom, but construct 3d wins. I mean look at that. You have an entire print suspended from it!
12:35 list will need updates in June or June when Creality bring out the K2
5:42 glazier here, it is very rare but toughened or tempered glass can spontaneously pop, it is crazy rare but it does happen. Toughened/tempered glass can handle chamber temperatures plenty fine. But yes clear film will save the mess.
Also just so you know all toughened glass is not toughened around the edges (about 3-4mm) so if there is a pinch point on the edge it can pop very easily.
👍🇦🇺😊
Thanks for the correction! I love that we have such a diverse community of awesome people! Thanks for being one of them!
I think the formbot marathon would be a good IDEX printer for the list
A metric ton is about 1.1 short tons, as your american tons ;)
lololol
Thank you, I caught that and looked to see if someone else pointed it out.
If wires are not catching fire, they explode
#PrintFixFriday i seem to get issues with PETG sticking to the build plate (pei) it’s a ESUN one it seems to not like to stick at all i used glue stick magicgoo and also have the temp pretty high, the bed level is definitely ok as i did let it calibrate several times. It seems to stick so well though on the poi that it destroys the build plate. So i‘m sort of stuck between holds so well that the build plate gets destroyed or sticking not at all..
The printer is a anycubic vyper with the modification of LGX for extruder, and a Revo hotend..
As for that hanger - use PETG next time. It looks a lot like PLA and that will turn brittle over time.
It was PETG ;) lol.
The Sovol did not like the Positron, said NO!
My bamboo tempered glass just randomly exploded and nothing was printing 💀
Apparently this is a thing?!? I'm going to put some window film on mine today lol
Jayo is pretty decent filament brand
add flux to the wire first and it should go great on those low temp solder joints. Make sure the wire isn't oxidized first.
Good idea!
Happy Grant's Dad!
I have been thinking for awhile that a hotfails like hotmakes would be amusing. Fits right in with print fix friday.
You should do a contest
Wish you’d go back and do more with Magneto X 😊
I can't use it until I either bring it inside or get the enclosure for it :/ it's too humid in my garage
im gonna make a blob
Hurry up and release those videos my gifted membership is almost expired
shoutout to spool holder for standing in for Victoria.
It's trying it's hardest.
Top print fails would be an excellent topic for the 3 year video.
Great seeing the part 2 of the tier list 😃
I wanna see you do a positron
soon tm
9:50 been looking at bats sleeping ✋
So my first MMU3 project is The Helpful Fox Senko San on CG-Trader for $10. I printed several test prints of her head to calibrate the colors (nude, red, black, and silk white). The default (65mm down from 140 in the MMU2s) purge was not enough for lipstick red (also laying out in the open for a year so why did that not have issues when galaxy black didn't?) or galaxy black. Eventually I got a print that was good enough because the areas that I was concerned about would be covered in the final assembly anyway. So then I printed the hair. It didn't fit. Then I remembered I scaled her up. It still didn't fit without breaking it. Since the head was only 4 colors, I decided to print the hair on the head. That did the trick. I saw it while printing. It's a super tight fit. So having the hair as a separate piece is a failure on their part IMO. I still have to do a crap ton of painting though. I guess I'll print the larger non multi-color parts next since I want to print her arms and torso at the same time to reduce the overall color changes. Sadly this model wasn't designed with multi-color in mind. smart painting doesn't work on most of it. I have to do it by hand. And while her outfit is white, she's got a lot of red dashes on it. I have to paint each and every single dash. lol