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Bought one after watching the video, but the price for the Amazon one is wat too much. Found one at a UK shop for much cheaper. Got that one and another Stihl block off flange and even with shipping it came out to less than half of what the one on Amazon goes for.
Another great video. Ive moved away from the rubber and have made myself block offs using old and defective carbs. I simply seal the venturi using silicone and short the fuel inlet and carb impulse circuits (usually by making a small cut in the fuel pump diaphragm). Pumping air through the fuel inlet line then feeds the crankcase via the impulse hose.
Excellent video Tom. Very valid point too. So many people chase their tail when trying to diagnose OPE. A pressure/vac test with the correct tools should always be your first choice.
If the intake side leaks it's a big problem. If the exhaust side leaks it's not going to burn up the engine. But, it may cause some plastic melting, etc.
@@rayvil01 You've completely misunderstood what we're doing here. We seal off the intake and exhaust side, and apply first a vacuum, then pressure. We're testing the entire block. You cannot tolerate a leak anywhere; not at the intake, not at the exhaust, not at the sparkplug. If you find a leak, it's either the cylinder-crankcase seam or, more likely, the crankshaft seals.
SO true!! I have used a piece of rubber many many times..Thank you for the information..I never knew this existed because I never looked to see if there was something better than a piece of rubber..-John
I bought whole stihl pump set and that block plate included. Handy tool indeed. Makes diagnosting so much faster. I use it also testing 2-cycle engine before final assembly. Some chainsaw models have such a crappy desing that you can't make them work without test pump.
Hey guys…..way over here in Canada I got the same results when I clicked on the link, it came up with the brush cutter mounting adapter. Hmmmm Thanks for the video
Yeah it’s been weird, something to do with where they’ll ship I believe. There is no alternative and Amazon tries to direct you to the closest thing haha. Copy the code that comes up and paste it into Amazon :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs I am in Wales UK so probably something to do with that. I tried to paste it but its still the same. I will try and source somewhere else, thanks. I have a problem with a petrol disc cutter and think it must be down to seals somewhere, cant figure it out at the moment.
@@VintageEngineRepairs isn't the hose Tygon? Tyson is a boxer who recently had a questionable bout with an odd opponent, causing people to wonder if it was a bit of a set up.
Would an automotive4 smoke leak detector work? A bit more expensive, but if it saves time on every job it could pay for itself pretty quickly. Just a thought.
Ahoy there! I have an interesting situation regarding an engine, specifically a Maruyama 420 where it never had a paper gasket inbetween the crankcase, not even shown or exist in it's own digital parts manual! Either torqued to specs somehow. This one belongs to a late relative next door of one my elders place had already been disassembled at one point in a long time that the guy had to add red gasket maker in the middle of the crankcase possibly just enough that a little like a string vermicelli may be squeezed out, it did seal well when I ran and used it for some time, it sat for long because during the previous owner's time a starter pawl went undone melted unto the original old starter whilst it ran, for the last time, I couldn't imagine a good sound coming from one. The question is that how to cut off the excess INSIDE the crankcase? I had done with another engine and it did disconcerted me heart for a little while due to lacking wisdom regarding this part, the icky sticks to the moving parts 😵, and probably didn't torqued to specs the crankcase that's using the paper gasket that fits with it, leaving a little obvious back and forth horizontal play that wasn't there before, the same engine in one of the videos in my YT channel. What would ye do if you have to use a gasket maker, especially at hand is a Reinzosil gasket maker as a crankcase seal? And to remove the excess thereof inside the case? 🤔 I hope this would cook up a new idea for yer next video that'll help a ton, thankee and God bless ya mate! 🙏
Some advise on using RTV sealant for engine halves when there is no physical gasket to begin with. First, I suggest using Yamabond as the sealant instead of typical RTV products, as this is what Yamaha uses on their small engines were the engine case and covers use no gasket or o-ring and provides a perfect seal and bond that resist all manner of fuels and oils, plus temperatures. It's not cheap like regular RTV products, but it is well worth it in the long run. Next, to help prevent the sealant from squishing inward to the inner works of the engine, use the product extremely sparingly and toward the "outer half" of the mating surfaces, instead of spreading along the whole mating surface. This way as the product squishes, it travels more toward the outside of the engine due to it is closer, and if applied thin enough the product that does squish inward will stop shortly before or at the inner surface. This also helps prevent thrust issues with the internal parts, as the added "thickness" of the sealant is not enough to add too much gap. Another trick is to apply the product to one half of the engine case halves, smooth it on till it's micro-paper thin and clean off the excess, then let it almost cure before assembling the engine, so it then acts like a "paper gasket" on it's own. Just be careful to not "shift sideways" the surfaces when you start to assemble, as to not "scrape" off the sealant. If you do run into a situation of too much sealant squished to the inside of the case, before it cures, use Acetone to wash the inside of the case to help dislodge the excess, just be quick and dry it out completely as to not hurt any of the rubber seals. Then let it air-cure and give it a final internal risen with some Marvel Mystery Oil, then check for leaks. Post curing the only real option is to try and fish in some pick type tool to scrape off the squish strings and blobs, or tear it down and redo. You can have some squished sealant on the inside, as long as it is not in a spot were it can rub against a moving part or is flimsy enough to break off during operation of the engine, then get caught up in something.
Good point, Tom, easy mistake to make when using rubber sheet. The link takes me to the correct item, but says it can't be shipped to my location. I'm in Perth, same as you, Tom. Armadale, WA🤷♂️ Maybe I'll just knock one up on my milling machine, would be a nice, easy, satisfying little project, and another useful tool in my arsenal.👍
@VintageEngineRepairs Being able to afford to buy tools and equipment is always a big challenge, and often involve ongoing expenses for additional tooling etc, so they don't make much sense unless they can eventually pay for themself over time, if ever. Generally never an option for the average home-gamer obviously. Tig is something I've always wanted to try, but I doubt I would ever get enough use out of it to justify the expense tbh, but it could be a handy skill and looks like you're having fun and making awesome progress. I can do stick, mig, oxy/propane, oxy/acet. steel fusion, steel filler, brazing + sheet metal lead soldering, most general wiring, as well as through hole pcb components and surface mount micro soldering etc, so that's enough for most things I've ever needed to repair. Although Tig could certainly come in handy for the odd Ally or Stainless repairs but they would be super rare for me. Just a thought mate, you have a lathe, you can often knock out some things on a lathe that you might otherwise think you would need a mill for. I'll actually probably start off doing a fair bit of this little project on the lathe, then maybe finish it off on the mill, mainly just for the bolt/stud holes and maybe machine some flat sides on it, that's if I don't just use a rectangular piece of stock to begin with. But really the only critical requirement isfor the main mating face to be flat and parallel with the bolt head/nut side (which can be done on a lathe) then it should work just fine. You could even just mark out and drill the mounting holes by hand if need be (even better if you have a 4 jaw chuck, everthing could be machined and all 3 holes drilled on a lathe and machine a little hose spigot around the centre hole, or perhaps even tap a 1/8 BSPT or NPT thread into the centre hole for a hose tail) then it just a bit of cutting and filing for aesthetics and finess afterwards if one desires.🤣👍
Excellent video Tom! I do disagree with one thing… Using a piece of rubber is a good idea if you want to confine your tests to the crank seals only. The piece of rubber test can help you avoid tearing down certain engines twice: once to replace the manifold, and a second time to replace the crank seals when it still won't hold pressure. I think both have their place. Well done mate!👍 Merry Christmas 🎄 and Happy New Year 🥂
4 mix is a concept designed by stihl wherein the engine is based off a 4 stroke, but uses premixed oil in the fuel to lubricate the bottom end, top end and valves. It needs to be air tight like a 2 stroke. I’m not convinced personally, but some like them.
Yes. Stack nuts if bolts are too long. You need one on exhaust side too. And if you eve get into rebuilding snowmobile/ dirt bike engines they have power valves that need block off too. Flat stock, jigsaw, transfer punches, hand drill or press and gasket material are a guys go-to for all 2 stroke engines.
I had a 30cm2 box full of custom made stops, blocks and adapters, actually the last thing i used was the mould for casting primer bulbs! I need to put one of those stress toys in the kit too.. you know the ones you push the button and it swears for ya! Lol coz the job before hand was a chainsaw (Chinese) most frustrating rubber anomaly between the motor and carbi, but i won! LOL
When I first saw this I thought that isn’t too bad of a price and then followed the link and it’s only the blocking plate for that! That high quality German metal...
Do your vacuum test first then pressure test 2nd. Reason being, let's say that you have a crank seal that's on it's way out. Doing the pressure test first may cause that weakened seal to seal from pressure.
I’ve heard people say that, I’ve never experience it and logically it doesn’t make sense, a weak spring or stiff rubber won’t seal not to mention the engine pulses pressure against the sealing lip 10,000 times a minute. Have you got any literature from a manual that actually states that?
Una pregunta maestro porque unos pistones de motores de 2 tiempos cómo dé motosierras son hobalados y hotros son Planos parejos de la cabeza del pistón porque señor saludos
Hola 👋 en realidad se pueden fabricar todos lo elementos de forma cacera para dejar el motor ermetico y hacer la prueba de estanqueidad y sin invertir tanto dinero. Mityvac 8500 te de la posibilidad de presion negativa y positiva ya que tambien hay que hacer prueba de presion negativa en estos motores de 2T saludos
They use to be much more tightly controlled, now days they sell them to the public yes, apart from tuning screw drivers and their diagnostic equipment for the m-tronic and injection machines lol
You can, It’s a quick and dirty method which gives you an indication, but not fool proof especially if you can’t reach the seals - which is highly likely as they’re under clutches, washers, covers, same with flywheels.
Im sorry, but I don't understand all the hassle ? So the idea is to check for false air using a piece of rubber under pressure ? What happend to just starting the engine, and use any type of gas in a can ( like deodorant, or even WD40 ) , and spray that gently around the sealings ? If the engine reacts in any way, increasing or decreasing rpm, you instantly know there is bad air leaking or being drawn in. I must have missed something ?
Yep you sort of did, if it runs that’s a test you can do if done properly. However if the machine isn’t going like most of them that we get then you should be doing these types of test before going headlong into the unknown spend time $ that would be avoided if you knew what the actual problem was. These test are what the diagnostic fee covers.
Yep you sort of did, if it runs that’s a test you can do if done properly. However if the machine isn’t going like most of them that we get then you should be doing these types of test before going headlong into the unknown spend time $ that would be avoided if you knew what the actual problem was. These test are what the diagnostic fee covers. That make sense?
People use rubber inner tube to seal the crankcase to do a pressure and vacuum test, however that rubber can hide leaks at the manifold face when the manifold is warped or compressed with age. Therefore you hide the leak you’re chasing. Using a flat block off ensures that if there is warping or compression, you’ll find it. Using a flammable spray is a down and dirty way, but often isn’t fool proof - very hard to get in certain areas, especially seals that are under many covers, clutches, washers etc.
@@VintageEngineRepairs I was thinking that, small piece of flat stock (I save cheap bed frames for such things), couple holes for the carb studs/bolts, and a hole with either a press in piece of steel/copper/brass tubing, or threaded with screw in type fitting. And a piece of rubber (old inner tube?) to seal against the carb? But great video pointing out the problem with pressurizing from the plug hole. I guess that's primarily to detect bad crank seals, yes?
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Bought one after watching the video, but the price for the Amazon one is wat too much. Found one at a UK shop for much cheaper. Got that one and another Stihl block off flange and even with shipping it came out to less than half of what the one on Amazon goes for.
That’s awesome! Great to hear you got a good deal!
Another great video. Ive moved away from the rubber and have made myself block offs using old and defective carbs. I simply seal the venturi using silicone and short the fuel inlet and carb impulse circuits (usually by making a small cut in the fuel pump diaphragm). Pumping air through the fuel inlet line then feeds the crankcase via the impulse hose.
Awesome mate, good job!
Excellent vid as always! Thank you for helping all of us learn!
You’re welcome :) thanks for the kind words!
Excellent video Tom. Very valid point too. So many people chase their tail when trying to diagnose OPE. A pressure/vac test with the correct tools should always be your first choice.
Spot on :) well said! Thanks for the kind words!
Good video a lot of mechanics do not do it and they should
Thanks Donny!
I love it when my favorite UA-camrs watch each other's videos. 😊
and some say they have when the haven't
The link to the block off adapter doesn't go to the adapter - fyi. Great bit of kit, and great info. Kudos!
Yeah it’s weird, the link is causing issues for some people!
Vacuum Pressure Intake Test Adapter For Stihl 😀I Have The Whole Stihl Tool Set at Work 👍🏼
Awesome!! Great to have access to!
Hey how about the exhaust side ? It has additional plate for exhaust side or just do the usual blocking off
If the intake side leaks it's a big problem. If the exhaust side leaks it's not going to burn up the engine. But, it may cause some plastic melting, etc.
You can use rubber that side 👍🏻
You can't pressurize the case if all the air is leaking out the exhaust.
@@rayvil01 You've completely misunderstood what we're doing here. We seal off the intake and exhaust side, and apply first a vacuum, then pressure. We're testing the entire block. You cannot tolerate a leak anywhere; not at the intake, not at the exhaust, not at the sparkplug. If you find a leak, it's either the cylinder-crankcase seam or, more likely, the crankshaft seals.
SO true!! I have used a piece of rubber many many times..Thank you for the information..I never knew this existed because I never looked to see if there was something better than a piece of rubber..-John
Glad it helped you!!
Excellent video, I absolutely agree! I used rubber for a long time, it's so much easier to use the proper tools!!! Thank you Sir.
Awesome :) glad you found it to be the case too!
I bought whole stihl pump set and that block plate included. Handy tool indeed. Makes diagnosting so much faster. I use it also testing 2-cycle engine before final assembly. Some chainsaw models have such a crappy desing that you can't make them work without test pump.
Awesome, a great investment!!
Hi great video very clear. The link for the block off plate comes up with a brush cutter head blade mounting set though?
How weird! I just checked it and it works for me. What country are you in? Can you try again? amzn.to/3BB5Nbb
@VintageEngineRepairs England mate. No worries I will search it up, probably my phone messing me about!!
@ ah gutted! Yeah give it a search hopefully you can find it easily 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hey guys…..way over here in Canada I got the same results when I clicked on the link, it came up with the brush cutter mounting adapter. Hmmmm
Thanks for the video
Oh no how frustrating! No idea why!
The block off plate link brings up some sort of battery?
Yeah it’s been weird, something to do with where they’ll ship I believe. There is no alternative and Amazon tries to direct you to the closest thing haha. Copy the code that comes up and paste it into Amazon :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs I am in Wales UK so probably something to do with that. I tried to paste it but its still the same. I will try and source somewhere else, thanks. I have a problem with a petrol disc cutter and think it must be down to seals somewhere, cant figure it out at the moment.
Where do you buy your fuel hose from?
Im always looking for the best deal as i go through a lot working on old equipment!!
I buy Tyson on amazon :)
@VintageEngineRepairs i didn't know he was for sale again!!
Hahahahahahahahahaha
Cheers mate.
I'll have a look!!
@@bushratbeachbum sorry mate you lost me 🤣🤣🤣
@@VintageEngineRepairs maybe mike tyson or tyson chicken.
@@VintageEngineRepairs isn't the hose Tygon?
Tyson is a boxer who recently had a questionable bout with an odd opponent, causing people to wonder if it was a bit of a set up.
Is there a part # you could share .The Amazon link appears not to work here in Canada..ca?I like idea of 3D printing as an option.
Hey, I don’t have the part number on hand, but if you click the link, you can copy and paste it (it comes up in the search bar) 👍🏻
Hi, what size yellow tube do you use to connect your Mityvac? TIA
I have no idea I’m afraid, I just find something that fits lol.
Would an automotive4 smoke leak detector work? A bit more expensive, but if it saves time on every job it could pay for itself pretty quickly. Just a thought.
Unfortunately not as it requires pressure, up to 7psi. Also you need vacuum to test for leaks at the seals. However a good thought though!
That's a pretty slick tool. I am going to add one to the box and try it out. 🙂
Awesome mate! I hope you’re well. Merry Christmas :)
@VintageEngineRepairs I am doing great! Merry Christmas to you and yours too! O hope things are going good down under.
Una pregunta maestro y un consejo quiero comprarme una motosierra cuál estaría bueno comprarme echó ho Sthil ho quosvarna qué me aconseja
Stihl every time 👍🏻
Excellent 👍 thank you cheers 🥂
Ps I always set high speed mixture on the side of being slightly to rich to avoid piston damage .
You’re welcome :) that’s a good idea too!
You rock dude! Love your channel and I so much appreciate you. Thank you for being awesome 😎🫡😊
Thanks for the kind words :) I really appreciate it!!
@ I appreciate you so much dude. I think you’re awesome and thank you for all your support.
Ahoy there! I have an interesting situation regarding an engine, specifically a Maruyama 420 where it never had a paper gasket inbetween the crankcase, not even shown or exist in it's own digital parts manual! Either torqued to specs somehow. This one belongs to a late relative next door of one my elders place had already been disassembled at one point in a long time that the guy had to add red gasket maker in the middle of the crankcase possibly just enough that a little like a string vermicelli may be squeezed out, it did seal well when I ran and used it for some time, it sat for long because during the previous owner's time a starter pawl went undone melted unto the original old starter whilst it ran, for the last time, I couldn't imagine a good sound coming from one. The question is that how to cut off the excess INSIDE the crankcase? I had done with another engine and it did disconcerted me heart for a little while due to lacking wisdom regarding this part, the icky sticks to the moving parts 😵, and probably didn't torqued to specs the crankcase that's using the paper gasket that fits with it, leaving a little obvious back and forth horizontal play that wasn't there before, the same engine in one of the videos in my YT channel. What would ye do if you have to use a gasket maker, especially at hand is a Reinzosil gasket maker as a crankcase seal? And to remove the excess thereof inside the case? 🤔
I hope this would cook up a new idea for yer next video that'll help a ton, thankee and God bless ya mate! 🙏
Some advise on using RTV sealant for engine halves when there is no physical gasket to begin with.
First, I suggest using Yamabond as the sealant instead of typical RTV products, as this is what Yamaha uses on their small engines were the engine case and covers use no gasket or o-ring and provides a perfect seal and bond that resist all manner of fuels and oils, plus temperatures.
It's not cheap like regular RTV products, but it is well worth it in the long run.
Next, to help prevent the sealant from squishing inward to the inner works of the engine, use the product extremely sparingly and toward the "outer half" of the mating surfaces, instead of spreading along the whole mating surface.
This way as the product squishes, it travels more toward the outside of the engine due to it is closer, and if applied thin enough the product that does squish inward will stop shortly before or at the inner surface.
This also helps prevent thrust issues with the internal parts, as the added "thickness" of the sealant is not enough to add too much gap.
Another trick is to apply the product to one half of the engine case halves, smooth it on till it's micro-paper thin and clean off the excess, then let it almost cure before assembling the engine, so it then acts like a "paper gasket" on it's own.
Just be careful to not "shift sideways" the surfaces when you start to assemble, as to not "scrape" off the sealant.
If you do run into a situation of too much sealant squished to the inside of the case, before it cures, use Acetone to wash the inside of the case to help dislodge the excess, just be quick and dry it out completely as to not hurt any of the rubber seals. Then let it air-cure and give it a final internal risen with some Marvel Mystery Oil, then check for leaks.
Post curing the only real option is to try and fish in some pick type tool to scrape off the squish strings and blobs, or tear it down and redo.
You can have some squished sealant on the inside, as long as it is not in a spot were it can rub against a moving part or is flimsy enough to break off during operation of the engine, then get caught up in something.
I think Kirk did a good job explaining :) I haven’t done acetone, any squish out I leave. Cheers!
Good point, Tom, easy mistake to make when using rubber sheet.
The link takes me to the correct item, but says it can't be shipped to my location.
I'm in Perth, same as you, Tom. Armadale, WA🤷♂️
Maybe I'll just knock one up on my milling machine, would be a nice, easy, satisfying little project, and another useful tool in my arsenal.👍
Thanks for the feedback mate!! Urgh I need a mill!! Though having just spent thousands on a tig welder It will be a while 🤣
@VintageEngineRepairs Being able to afford to buy tools and equipment is always a big challenge, and often involve ongoing expenses for additional tooling etc, so they don't make much sense unless they can eventually pay for themself over time, if ever.
Generally never an option for the average home-gamer obviously.
Tig is something I've always wanted to try, but I doubt I would ever get enough use out of it to justify the expense tbh, but it could be a handy skill and looks like you're having fun and making awesome progress.
I can do stick, mig, oxy/propane, oxy/acet. steel fusion, steel filler, brazing + sheet metal lead soldering, most general wiring, as well as through hole pcb components and surface mount micro soldering etc, so that's enough for most things I've ever needed to repair.
Although Tig could certainly come in handy for the odd Ally or Stainless repairs but they would be super rare for me.
Just a thought mate, you have a lathe, you can often knock out some things on a lathe that you might otherwise think you would need a mill for.
I'll actually probably start off doing a fair bit of this little project on the lathe, then maybe finish it off on the mill, mainly just for the bolt/stud holes and maybe machine some flat sides on it, that's if I don't just use a rectangular piece of stock to begin with.
But really the only critical requirement isfor the main mating face to be flat and parallel with the bolt head/nut side (which can be done on a lathe) then it should work just fine.
You could even just mark out and drill the mounting holes by hand if need be (even better if you have a 4 jaw chuck, everthing could be machined and all 3 holes drilled on a lathe and machine a little hose spigot around the centre hole, or perhaps even tap a 1/8 BSPT or NPT thread into the centre hole for a hose tail) then it just a bit of cutting and filing for aesthetics and finess afterwards if one desires.🤣👍
What a smart idea!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video Tom! I do disagree with one thing… Using a piece of rubber is a good idea if you want to confine your tests to the crank seals only. The piece of rubber test can help you avoid tearing down certain engines twice: once to replace the manifold, and a second time to replace the crank seals when it still won't hold pressure. I think both have their place. Well done mate!👍 Merry Christmas 🎄 and Happy New Year 🥂
Thanks Stella! Sure you can do that!! ❤️
What do you mean by 'four-mix engines"? I've worked on engines all my life and never heard that term.
4 mix is a concept designed by stihl wherein the engine is based off a 4 stroke, but uses premixed oil in the fuel to lubricate the bottom end, top end and valves. It needs to be air tight like a 2 stroke. I’m not convinced personally, but some like them.
$54 !! I’ll make my own.
Sure 👍🏻
Time to warm up the 3D printer.
i got that and am thinkin about another 1
I have two as I modified one to fit the stihl 201t lol
@VintageEngineRepairs the second is for 026 and 046
I think that you could use a piece of flat stock and just drill some holes in it to fit.
Sure that’s a good idea! Just make sure you have bolts long enough!
You have to figure in what your time is worth.
Yes. Stack nuts if bolts are too long. You need one on exhaust side too. And if you eve get into rebuilding snowmobile/ dirt bike engines they have power valves that need block off too. Flat stock, jigsaw, transfer punches, hand drill or press and gasket material are a guys go-to for all 2 stroke engines.
Please provide the same for Husqvarna. Thanks.
Same tool :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thanks!
I had a 30cm2 box full of custom made stops, blocks and adapters, actually the last thing i used was the mould for casting primer bulbs! I need to put one of those stress toys in the kit too.. you know the ones you push the button and it swears for ya! Lol coz the job before hand was a chainsaw (Chinese) most frustrating rubber anomaly between the motor and carbi, but i won! LOL
Haha good job! I love custom tools :)
Weird.
Link says it can't be shipped to my location, even though im not too far from where you are.
Odd!!!
Seems to only be available in the USA via that link :( copy and paste the number into your Amazon 👍🏻
Thanks for the video, the only problem is the insane price of almost $55 dollars !
When I first saw this I thought that isn’t too bad of a price and then followed the link and it’s only the blocking plate for that! That high quality German metal...
@@kbittorf335looks like cast pot-metal.
You’re welcome :)
Do your vacuum test first then pressure test 2nd. Reason being, let's say that you have a crank seal that's on it's way out. Doing the pressure test first may cause that weakened seal to seal from pressure.
I’ve heard people say that, I’ve never experience it and logically it doesn’t make sense, a weak spring or stiff rubber won’t seal not to mention the engine pulses pressure against the sealing lip 10,000 times a minute. Have you got any literature from a manual that actually states that?
Very well presented video
Thank you :)
Thank you
You’re welcome!
Una pregunta maestro porque unos pistones de motores de 2 tiempos cómo dé motosierras son hobalados y hotros son Planos parejos de la cabeza del pistón porque señor saludos
Sorry mate I don’t understand your question
holbidalo amigo saludos
I can see someone 3D printing sets of these for different equipment.
I love this idea, so long as the 3d printed block off doesn’t warp under compression? No idea how ridged it is.
Well heck, i'm just going to use a piece of rubber in my saw.
more power to you!
Hola 👋 en realidad se pueden fabricar todos lo elementos de forma cacera para dejar el motor ermetico y hacer la prueba de estanqueidad y sin invertir tanto dinero. Mityvac 8500 te de la posibilidad de presion negativa y positiva ya que tambien hay que hacer prueba de presion negativa en estos motores de 2T saludos
Glad you enjoyed it 👍🏻👍🏻
Won't ship to NZ and whats the price
might just make my own stihl nz don't want to know I asked
Yeah some countries are having issues with the link unfortunately! Have a quick google search around :)
Stihl tools are available for the general public to purchase? I kinda assumed they were made available only to certified Stihl techs. 👍🍻
They use to be much more tightly controlled, now days they sell them to the public yes, apart from tuning screw drivers and their diagnostic equipment for the m-tronic and injection machines lol
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thanks, Tom. Good to know.
Ill just make one, easy enough.
Yep
Blockoff plate shortcut above takes me to ""Techtek battery compatible with [CU Medical] Defibrillator I-PAD, i-PAD SP2 Defibrillator,""
Same here😢
Yeah one link is being funny with it this time!
Use carb cleaner to find leaks ,spray round car gasket area ,revs go up or cuts out ,there your fault
You can, It’s a quick and dirty method which gives you an indication, but not fool proof especially if you can’t reach the seals - which is highly likely as they’re under clutches, washers, covers, same with flywheels.
gasket sealant was invented to eliminate this problem.
No it’s not lol.
You could make that with a piece of aluminum plate for much cheaper
Yep, go for it!
Wth does 4 mix mean?,never heard that before 🤔🤔🤔🤔
It’s a concept by stihl. It’s a 4 stroke cycle lubricated by the pre mixed oil.
Im sorry, but I don't understand all the hassle ?
So the idea is to check for false air using a piece of rubber under pressure ?
What happend to just starting the engine, and use any type of gas in a can ( like deodorant, or even WD40 ) , and spray that gently around the sealings ?
If the engine reacts in any way, increasing or decreasing rpm, you instantly know there is bad air leaking or being drawn in.
I must have missed something ?
Yep you sort of did, if it runs that’s a test you can do if done properly. However if the machine isn’t going like most of them that we get then you should be doing these types of test before going headlong into the unknown spend time $ that would be avoided if you knew what the actual problem was. These test are what the diagnostic fee covers.
Yep you sort of did, if it runs that’s a test you can do if done properly. However if the machine isn’t going like most of them that we get then you should be doing these types of test before going headlong into the unknown spend time $ that would be avoided if you knew what the actual problem was. These test are what the diagnostic fee covers. That make sense?
People use rubber inner tube to seal the crankcase to do a pressure and vacuum test, however that rubber can hide leaks at the manifold face when the manifold is warped or compressed with age. Therefore you hide the leak you’re chasing. Using a flat block off ensures that if there is warping or compression, you’ll find it. Using a flammable spray is a down and dirty way, but often isn’t fool proof - very hard to get in certain areas, especially seals that are under many covers, clutches, washers etc.
Hmm, oke, in all my years I never knew about this method. lol
Seems like a lot of work.
Do problems when you really need this method occur a lot ?
Nice tool but $55 for home repair folks is too steep.
Whooa 55 for that !! 😮
I’m sure you could make one
@@VintageEngineRepairs I was thinking that, small piece of flat stock (I save cheap bed frames for such things), couple holes for the carb studs/bolts, and a hole with either a press in piece of steel/copper/brass tubing, or threaded with screw in type fitting. And a piece of rubber (old inner tube?) to seal against the carb? But great video pointing out the problem with pressurizing from the plug hole. I guess that's primarily to detect bad crank seals, yes?
Is the last bit a parody?
?
$54.83+tax?
On Amazon yep, search around it may be cheaper.
Just get a GREENWORKS 40v Digipro, problem solved.
Until the battery dies in a year and parts aren’t available when they break, sure 😉