I write the camera used and date loaded with a Sharpie on the cassette. Besides telling me I’ve shot a roll this also makes it easy to keep track of which photos were made on which camera. When scanning I include the camera make and model in the file name. I don’t rewind rolls partway through. If a roll has writing on it and it’s not in the camera, it’s been shot.
Hi John, I just discovered your channel and am entranced. When I was a kid (in the 60s and 70s) I spent a lot of time in the darkroom and shot many feet of Plus-X and Tri-X. Now I'm primarily digital (shooting, among others, an M11 monochrom) but I have several beautiful film cameras, a film processing setup, and expect to buy an enlarger in the next few months to reenter the world of printing. Currently I scan the negatives but I really want to go fully analog. Your channel is oriented exactly as how I wish to proceed and it's timely for me to find you. I love the blend of technical and artistic you so deftly manage. Thanks for sharing!
I gave up on leaving the leader out and just came to terms with opening the canisters (I don't bulk roll.. yet). Great tip on changing roll part way through though, there have been times when shooting half frame where that would be a real benefit to me!
I usually print square or 4:3 aspect ratio so when I switch films I don’t bother winding on any extra frames. If there is a slight overlap it’s inconsequential.
After I wind up the slack on first loading of the film I also mark the film to one end of the film guide rails so when I reload the film I line the film mark to the same position and all subsequent shots will be frame accurate. You will probably need to press the rewind button to allow the rewind lever to fully cock the shutter without moving the film out of position.
Isn't life strange, i do exactly the same thing as you describe with film and i never found that idea in a book. I also discovered solarization by accident as well. Next April 1 i will give you my formula for a film developer that uses curry when your in a hurry.😊
I do the same and crease a finished film, then as soon as I can normally when I get home I cut the leader off square and add a little note tucked into the canaster with a date , camera used and maybe a location.
Of course the day I didn't I got seventy two unrepeatable holiday images and I'm convinced to this day the second lot were probably some of the best photos I'd ever taken.
I follow the exact "opposite" procedure: Rewind the film _completely_ into the canister. Thus, "done" rolls are recognised in an instance and without margin for error, and the film is really safe behind the closed velvet lips. In the dark I open disposable canisters with a bottle opener; canisters for reuse are easy to open with finger force. The film need not pass again through the lips (which may carry a little risk of scratching). -- Just my way of doing it. In practice and with practice your's is no doubt just as good.
I like these Fridays Shorties
Thanks John
I write the camera used and date loaded with a Sharpie on the cassette. Besides telling me I’ve shot a roll this also makes it easy to keep track of which photos were made on which camera. When scanning I include the camera make and model in the file name. I don’t rewind rolls partway through. If a roll has writing on it and it’s not in the camera, it’s been shot.
Nice!
Hi John, I just discovered your channel and am entranced. When I was a kid (in the 60s and 70s) I spent a lot of time in the darkroom and shot many feet of Plus-X and Tri-X. Now I'm primarily digital (shooting, among others, an M11 monochrom) but I have several beautiful film cameras, a film processing setup, and expect to buy an enlarger in the next few months to reenter the world of printing. Currently I scan the negatives but I really want to go fully analog. Your channel is oriented exactly as how I wish to proceed and it's timely for me to find you. I love the blend of technical and artistic you so deftly manage. Thanks for sharing!
This is an exciting time for your photography and I'm honoured you left this comment, Rob. Thank you!
Best channel for technical aspects of film photography
Thank you, Chris
This is a great technique, that I had not considerer before! Thanks for sharing
You're welcome, Michal!
Good ideas thanks
Cheers, Jeffrey!
I gave up on leaving the leader out and just came to terms with opening the canisters (I don't bulk roll.. yet).
Great tip on changing roll part way through though, there have been times when shooting half frame where that would be a real benefit to me!
I usually print square or 4:3 aspect ratio so when I switch films I don’t bother winding on any extra frames. If there is a slight overlap it’s inconsequential.
How interesting! Never thought about that.
This is genius 😎🎉 thanks 👍🏻
I usually crease once for box speed, and an extra crease for each stop pushed. But I prefer the sharpie if I have one around.
Genius
After I wind up the slack on first loading of the film I also mark the film to one end of the film guide rails so when I reload the film I line the film mark to the same position and all subsequent shots will be frame accurate.
You will probably need to press the rewind button to allow the rewind lever to fully cock the shutter without moving the film out of position.
That's interesting!
If I don't pre-mark the film, I shoot an extra blank frame upon reloading the the partially finished roll so i never get overlapping frames.
Isn't life strange, i do exactly the same thing as you describe with film and i never found that idea in a book.
I also discovered solarization by accident as well.
Next April 1 i will give you my formula for a film developer that uses curry when your in a hurry.😊
I love curry!
❤
I do the same and crease a finished film, then as soon as I can normally when I get home I cut the leader off square and add a little note tucked into the canaster with a date , camera used and maybe a location.
Good idea!
Of course the day I didn't I got seventy two unrepeatable holiday images and I'm convinced to this day the second lot were probably some of the best photos I'd ever taken.
:(
Does anyone one know if AI can separate the double exposures. Because I made a similar tragic mistake
I follow the exact "opposite" procedure: Rewind the film _completely_ into the canister. Thus, "done" rolls are recognised in an instance and without margin for error, and the film is really safe behind the closed velvet lips. In the dark I open disposable canisters with a bottle opener; canisters for reuse are easy to open with finger force. The film need not pass again through the lips (which may carry a little risk of scratching). -- Just my way of doing it. In practice and with practice your's is no doubt just as good.