The Australian version has a plastic block with screw terminals for the active, neutral and earth wires.. The metal cover has a plastic layer underneath instead of that rubber isolator that you mentioned is often deteriorated on the US version. The Aussie drive gears have one gold coloured heavy metal gear and one nylon gear instead of two nylon gears. Just some details I noticed. :-)
Thanks for sharing the differences! I don't know I will ever see an Australian model, so I would really never have known, and I find it quite interesting to know there are differences!
Hi Rick, is the high temp solder you use on a resistor rebuild on the Sunbeam resistors done with an ordinary electric soldering iron and what exactly is the type of solder you use? Thanks.
Hey Jim, I was using a high temp "silver solder", thats what it was marked as, but didnt require brazing. I found it still didnt hold up in some cases, even after raising the speed of the lowest setting so I started using a file to file the ends of the caps a little bit so the metal on the point became thin, and just pushed the leads of the resistor through. I dont know what the actual temperature is that the resistors reach but its pretty darn hot.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Wow, that worked great...what could be easier!? On the Sunbeam the wire is on the outside of the cylinder and this one just happens to fit inside of that cylinder perfectly. How does that work or is there some sort of standardisation with wire wound resistors? Thanks again.
@@JimWatsonTheframingMagician It is just coincidence that it fits inside so well! Im glad it worked out, if it gets too hot, bump up the lowest speed setting a little bit!
Is it just me or did you change something in your recording setup? The sound goes up and down all the time... Never mind, it was my equalizer settings ;-)
Hi, Rick. I /m rebuilding a resistor for model 12. Can I get info. on the new resistor that inserts into the old resistor housing?.. I need size, where to order etc. Thanks.
Hey Jim, I used a 180 ohm 5 watt wirewound resistor made by a company called Dale, I found them on ebay. The last few times I had looked for them I couldnt find them, but I havent looked in quite a while. I would remove one of the end caps and the original wire from the original resistor, drill a small hole (or can easily file the tips on the brass ends and it will open up a small hole) then pushed the new resistor into the housing till one lead came through the end, then slipped the cap on the other end with the lead going through the hole in that cap, then just snipped the ends so there was just a little nub, then popped it back into the machine and adjusted the speed so the lowest speed was a little higher than normal since the 5 watt resistor seemed to heat up much more than the original 10 watt at the lowest speed. I never could find a 10 watt resistor that would actually fit into the machine.
Found some! www.ebay.com/itm/5-NEW-NOS-DALE-RW67V181-MIL-MILITARY-WIREWOUND-RESISTOR-180-OHM-5W-5-RS-5-70/310555189430?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Donor machines, I was able at one point to find them cheaply, with issues like a broken base or speed control knob or handle, then salvage the good components from them. Unfortunately donor machines are getting harder and harder to find now too.
The machine I’m working on didn’t have the armature compression spring in it. You think a guy can find a reasonable replacement at a place like Fastenall?
Thanks for the info on the resistor. I'm currently restoring a HB model D. You always toss the radio resistor/condenser, or whatever it's called. In this model, it's a larger square one. If I toss it then what is used in lieu of it? Also, how does one test a resistor when it's connected to the larger piece?
If I recall, the resistor and main capacitor are attached together on the model D (correct me if Im wrong about this) , you can desolder the capacitor to test the resistor. Im not sure that it is also a RF filter, since there is no lead to the chassis, which is a sure sign of a radio filter.
Yes, both pieces are connected. By lead to chassis are you referring to a bare wire that is connected to a screw in the chassis? This does have that wire.
If it has the bare 3rd lead, it is an RF filter, and will probably not function like the actual capacitor. I would toss it. I have no clue how they actually work, but they attach to the power leads directly, and then to chassis. You could probably use a capacitor from later model machines. Sounds like someone was in that machine before and did some rearranging!
The Australian version has a plastic block with screw terminals for the active, neutral and earth wires.. The metal cover has a plastic layer underneath instead of that rubber isolator that you mentioned is often deteriorated on the US version.
The Aussie drive gears have one gold coloured heavy metal gear and one nylon gear instead of two nylon gears.
Just some details I noticed. :-)
Thanks for sharing the differences! I don't know I will ever see an Australian model, so I would really never have known, and I find it quite interesting to know there are differences!
I have one of these that won't turn on. Planning on ordering a replacement resistor. I hope that would work.
Hi Rick, is the high temp solder you use on a resistor rebuild on the Sunbeam resistors done with an ordinary electric soldering iron and what exactly is the type of solder you use? Thanks.
Hey Jim, I was using a high temp "silver solder", thats what it was marked as, but didnt require brazing. I found it still didnt hold up in some cases, even after raising the speed of the lowest setting so I started using a file to file the ends of the caps a little bit so the metal on the point became thin, and just pushed the leads of the resistor through. I dont know what the actual temperature is that the resistors reach but its pretty darn hot.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Wow, that worked great...what could be easier!? On the Sunbeam the wire is on the outside of the cylinder and this one just happens to fit inside of that cylinder perfectly. How does that work or is there some sort of standardisation with wire wound resistors? Thanks again.
@@JimWatsonTheframingMagician It is just coincidence that it fits inside so well! Im glad it worked out, if it gets too hot, bump up the lowest speed setting a little bit!
Is it just me or did you change something in your recording setup? The sound goes up and down all the time... Never mind, it was my equalizer settings ;-)
lol that's good because I didn't change anything!
Hi, Rick. I /m rebuilding a resistor for model 12. Can I get info. on the new resistor that inserts into the old resistor housing?.. I need size, where to order etc. Thanks.
Hey Jim, I used a 180 ohm 5 watt wirewound resistor made by a company called Dale, I found them on ebay. The last few times I had looked for them I couldnt find them, but I havent looked in quite a while. I would remove one of the end caps and the original wire from the original resistor, drill a small hole (or can easily file the tips on the brass ends and it will open up a small hole) then pushed the new resistor into the housing till one lead came through the end, then slipped the cap on the other end with the lead going through the hole in that cap, then just snipped the ends so there was just a little nub, then popped it back into the machine and adjusted the speed so the lowest speed was a little higher than normal since the 5 watt resistor seemed to heat up much more than the original 10 watt at the lowest speed. I never could find a 10 watt resistor that would actually fit into the machine.
Found some! www.ebay.com/itm/5-NEW-NOS-DALE-RW67V181-MIL-MILITARY-WIREWOUND-RESISTOR-180-OHM-5W-5-RS-5-70/310555189430?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 That's great! Thanks, for taking the time to find those for me Rick....I really appreciate it.
@@JimWatsonTheframingMagician You bet!
Where on earth did you get the replacement parts for the rebuild?
Donor machines, I was able at one point to find them cheaply, with issues like a broken base or speed control knob or handle, then salvage the good components from them. Unfortunately donor machines are getting harder and harder to find now too.
The machine I’m working on didn’t have the armature compression spring in it. You think a guy can find a reasonable replacement at a place like Fastenall?
@@jimscott5089 I suppose thats possible, if not then keep an eye out for a donor machine, or see if any of the salvagers on ebay have anything listed.
Hello, what you use exactly
to solder the resistor
Thanks for the info on the resistor. I'm currently restoring a HB model D. You always toss the radio resistor/condenser, or whatever it's called. In this model, it's a larger square one. If I toss it then what is used in lieu of it? Also, how does one test a resistor when it's connected to the larger piece?
If I recall, the resistor and main capacitor are attached together on the model D (correct me if Im wrong about this) , you can desolder the capacitor to test the resistor. Im not sure that it is also a RF filter, since there is no lead to the chassis, which is a sure sign of a radio filter.
Yes, both pieces are connected. By lead to chassis are you referring to a bare wire that is connected to a screw in the chassis? This does have that wire.
Jim Watson well that's interesting, I am pretty sure at least the last model D I did did not have a bare wire to chassis.
So, is this an RF filter or a capacitor? Can I/should I toss it?
If it has the bare 3rd lead, it is an RF filter, and will probably not function like the actual capacitor. I would toss it. I have no clue how they actually work, but they attach to the power leads directly, and then to chassis. You could probably use a capacitor from later model machines. Sounds like someone was in that machine before and did some rearranging!