Nice guide, Used to to pull apart my Alphacool DDC310 - Just a 10W pump which didn't support running of an Aquacomputer Quadro header. With the DIYINHK PCB now in - It does run, however it is also louder at all rpms compared to the old. Not worth the tradeoff for the sake of a single control, that said it does max out at 5000+ RPM now which is good to blast bubbles out..but damn, its loud AF now.
@@Igor.Kupinsky It was too loud. Waste of time with that particular Alphacool model pump.. I just got a EK-DDC3.2 and it works perfect with PWM header on Quadro.
@@aaronactive I can see video with your`s DDC310 diyinhk plate with sound? I`m need powerful pump, but if too loud this not comfort. But level of acoustic comfort everyone has their own. so...
Great vid mate! Just ordered the PCB for my old faithful Swiftech MCP 350 blue rotor, Im moving to a 360 rad setup hoping to cool my toasty i7 3820@4.6Ghz during this crazy hot Australian summer lol.
I had one too. And i opened it twice. Once for the frame repair and the second time for sleeving. Gave it to a friend. These tiny things are powerful enough for dual 360s setups
For anyone interested the IC is DRV11873 from Texas Instrument, quite simple to use just 5 components as 2 0.1uF caps for the charge pump, 2 more caps for decopuling the 5v/12v and a 3.3k resistor to set the max current to 2A. If the motor doesnt have a common pin as in delta configuration u need to use 3 10k resistors coming from every phase. The FG pin can switch the PWM frequency from 65kHz to 125kHz if desidered. It supports a PWM input from 7 to 100kHz and has a RPM output which frequency multiplied by 60 and divided by the pair of poles of the motor gives the true RPM. This IC is also used in the Noctua Industrial PPC fans as the NF-F12 iPPC-3000
@@jaystheone1 also yes, iirc he rubbed of the numbers or you cant see them in the picture but its obviously that IC now that I saw the datasheet (also he adds 3 schottky diodes as per datasheet aswell)
the original ddc board uses a microcontroller with custom firmware and 3 discrete double mosfets for a total of 6, tecnically speaking this solution its the better one, but actually the software in the IC is pretty basic and thats how they limit the power for the various types of pump (the 18w one gets up to 80% duty cycle) The DRV11873 on the other hand doesnt care about software limits etc, it just pumps 3 phase up to 2A and syncs with the back-EMF iirc the discrete mosfets in the original pump can go up to 3A so theoretically it could spin faster/stronger but they are limited by the microcontroller one is more of a software solution like an ESC and one is more of a hardware one with comparators and some logic
hey there, I saw your comment and thought I'd ask you, I burned my PCB of an alphacool PCB black rotor and it was controllable by voltage (not PWM) when modding the connector to the fan header. Its max rpm was 4400 and startet up at 1900, it had 2100 unstable when below certain voltage, but then goes back to slower to 1900 and then linearly to 4200 which was max voltage of the fan header. Do you know a replacement pcb for that pump other than this one? There seems to be complete ddc pumps at the price of this pcb replacement aswell.. so I'm uncertain if i even should try a expensive repair.
Good video I've had this pump since I moved in to water cooling around 10years ago. Always overclocking cpu and gpu with a 360radiator. Athlon xp 2400+, core2duo e8400, and recently my r5 2600... this pump is a beauty and with that mod, it's perfect. Use some adhesive soft pads from chairs or tables on it's bottom, and it becomes real quiet.
@@CyberDenSystems, I was going to do this mod, but instead I simply changed the plug to a 3 pin fan plug and connected it directly to the motherboard cpu plug and have it running at a minimum of 60% to 100% power. This way it ramps up and never shutsdown, going between 1500-3400rpm. It's easier and doesn't envolve buying anything or soldering. Thanks 😊
@@nelsoncasquinha Sorry to necro this, but I tried that after going back to the dc pcb, and my pump doesn't seem to go below full speed regardless of what I set it to. I'm on an Asus x570-i. How did you get your's to work?
@@DUD3_BR0 probably settings on the bios, it needs to receive the sufficient amount of voltage to work. This said, you need to put the threshold a bit higher probably. Also on windows, I use a github app called fan control if I'm not mistaken.
4:15 - In PWM control, 12V is supplied constantly From the motherboard to the pump/fan. The PWM signal varies to tell the power-regulating IC on boart of the pump to adjust the power supplied. In DC (3 pin), the motherboard directly varies the voltage supplied to the pump/fan. PWM control allows for a more accurate speed control. Nowadays that mod isn't necessary since modern bioses can regulate both 3 and 4 pins speed, they even auto-detect what kind of pump/fan you have connected and they go DC or PWM. And what about the power increase... it's not all that necessary, tbh... a 10w pump is quite enough to manage the flow in a small circuit such as a water cooling loop of a computer.
Great DIY content. after having several EK pumps. they are delay starting and sometimes requires tapping on. EK supplied me with 3 to cover two pumps. have you ever seen any delay start? they don't stop once spinning. any feedback appreciated.
Thanks man!! Working on a few more videos. I've never had that issue, but I have heard about it. If its easy to get out, I would pull the impeller out and inspect for any debry. The bearing is only used during startup and shutdown. While its running its suspended in the fluid and magnetic field being generated. I would also unplug it and inspect the pins. A bad connection can cause excessive resistance, increasing amperage, witch would cause an increase in heat. Over time, that can where down the pins at there point of contact.
hello, you videos are great. But i want to implement model EK-XTOP SPC-60 PWM water pump with a flow meter and can i get a video of this process. Thank you.
Great video. Needed to find out if I could just use the existing PCB board and just solider the extra wire to the PWM connection and connect it to a four pin connector and do it that way? Or, do I actually have to take off the PCB board and replace it with that new board that can you put on?
Thanks man. I did finish it and it's been running great. I'll be doing a video shortly on my network setup. I got a server chassis, a couple server cases to transplant everything into, and some other gear to put into it. Gonna get custom painted and some water cooling involved. It sprung a leak recently so I gotta get moving on it.
I have nothing but issues using the pwm version (6watt) Most of them I have to tap the pump to get it to start. SATA or molex uses 18w never had issues with them
Finally got my pcb in to do this mod, installed it and omg it's way louder than the original. IDK if it's because my pump is mounted to the cpu heatsink, but the pwm pulse noise is ridiculous, even with the pump at 25%. does anyone know how to quiet that down? I was really hoping this would work, as the pump is the loudest part of my system.
Funny enough i acutally looked for a video on how to convert the connection on my corsair water cooling kit on my pc and this video came up , thanks again Den ;) . any progress on our project ? i havnt been able to check my emails lately
haha yeh i know id get what i wanted to know when i seen the CyberDen in the name lol , and Oohhhh very smart haha , i cant wait to see a update on what it looks like , the hype is too real , for sure this is the longest collab project lol , its been like a year of progress ,
Sorry my friend. As far as I know, there isn't any way to open then and fix them. Have you tried a different psu? I have seen a bad psu cause that that problem.
You do gotta check and find out the amperage your headers can handle. But, most modern mother boards have enough amperage to run this. I wouldn't try a D5, but a ddc shouldn't be an issue. I've had it running my in my nas 24/7 since shortly after posting this, on an old z77 board. Gigabyte g1 sniper 3 to be exact. Haven't had any issues.
@@CyberDenSystems Thanks for the quick reply. I have an X570 mini-ITX board and surprisingly the amperage isn't listed in the manual. I have a MCP350 (DDC 3.1) which is only 10W so assuming that the headers are only rated at 1A I should be safe.
Yah I'd say you won't have an issue with that. I'm actually surprised a board like that doesn't have a header labeled, "pump", since that's a popular thing to put on boards nowadays.
Most newer mobos have pump headers that are 3 amp rated. If you don't have this, then get an adapter that splits the PWM & RPM to the a 4pin fan header connector and voltage to a Molex or SATA connector. Or wire it like the newer DDCs that have two connectors.
whats the point of doing this besides to add pwn control or replace a burned out pcb? im wanting to change the rpm on my alphacool ddc310 pump and it currently maxes out at around 3190rpm but im having issues with my gpu hovering around 80-84c under load so i thin the pump flows too slow
Those would be the only reason to do this. I haven't used the 310 pumps yet, and dont know if the coils are different on them. So I dont know if this mod would help you out in your situation.
Will this work to upgrade the EKWB Predator pump? it is a DDC 3.1 6w, i expanded the Predator and i think the pump is not keeping up, i heard that you can make it spin faster by upgrading it with this PCB.
Yes sir it will. That aio uses the same ddc pump. You won't be able to see the leds, but it'll fix the dead pump. Just make sure to solder the cables back in the same position on the new board.
Ty man! just to be sure, my pump is not dead, it's just that i heard it's not potent enough for 2 rads + cpu block + gpu block + reservoir, so i think i am missing some performance out of it.
The original pcb does indeed have a 4th solder point witch it shorted to power. So it may have the ability to be pwm controlled. But since it was no good I didn't have the option of trying it.
Low melt solder helps a ton with wicking solder. Put a dab of low melt on each point and the wick should get almost all the solder in one go.
Nice guide, Used to to pull apart my Alphacool DDC310 - Just a 10W pump which didn't support running of an Aquacomputer Quadro header. With the DIYINHK PCB now in - It does run, however it is also louder at all rpms compared to the old. Not worth the tradeoff for the sake of a single control, that said it does max out at 5000+ RPM now which is good to blast bubbles out..but damn, its loud AF now.
How much more productive do you think your dds310 has become after the upgrade? I'm wondering if this model is worth the effort.
@@Igor.Kupinsky It was too loud. Waste of time with that particular Alphacool model pump.. I just got a EK-DDC3.2 and it works perfect with PWM header on Quadro.
@@aaronactive I can see video with your`s DDC310 diyinhk plate with sound? I`m need powerful pump, but if too loud this not comfort. But level of acoustic comfort everyone has their own. so...
Great vid mate! Just ordered the PCB for my old faithful Swiftech MCP 350 blue rotor, Im moving to a 360 rad setup hoping to cool my toasty i7 3820@4.6Ghz during this crazy hot Australian summer lol.
Thanks man!! Be sure to report back on how it goes.
Great content man... I just found your page from one of Dietecs videos... but seriously love this stuff man... DiY all the things.... keep it up bro
Thanks!!! I always try diy first.
Thats a really nice update for the DDC
I had one too. And i opened it twice. Once for the frame repair and the second time for sleeving. Gave it to a friend. These tiny things are powerful enough for dual 360s
setups
Thanks man. Yah it is a great pump. I've done plenty of builds with these guys. Works like a charm.
For anyone interested the IC is DRV11873 from Texas Instrument, quite simple to use just 5 components as 2 0.1uF caps for the charge pump, 2 more caps for decopuling the 5v/12v and a 3.3k resistor to set the max current to 2A. If the motor doesnt have a common pin as in delta configuration u need to use 3 10k resistors coming from every phase. The FG pin can switch the PWM frequency from 65kHz to 125kHz if desidered. It supports a PWM input from 7 to 100kHz and has a RPM output which frequency multiplied by 60 and divided by the pair of poles of the motor gives the true RPM.
This IC is also used in the Noctua Industrial PPC fans as the NF-F12 iPPC-3000
Are you talkin about upgrade the controller on the DIYINHK pcb?
@@jaystheone1 also yes, iirc he rubbed of the numbers or you cant see them in the picture but its obviously that IC now that I saw the datasheet (also he adds 3 schottky diodes as per datasheet aswell)
the original ddc board uses a microcontroller with custom firmware and 3 discrete double mosfets for a total of 6, tecnically speaking this solution its the better one, but actually the software in the IC is pretty basic and thats how they limit the power for the various types of pump (the 18w one gets up to 80% duty cycle)
The DRV11873 on the other hand doesnt care about software limits etc, it just pumps 3 phase up to 2A and syncs with the back-EMF
iirc the discrete mosfets in the original pump can go up to 3A so theoretically it could spin faster/stronger but they are limited by the microcontroller
one is more of a software solution like an ESC and one is more of a hardware one with comparators and some logic
hey there, I saw your comment and thought I'd ask you, I burned my PCB of an alphacool PCB black rotor and it was controllable by voltage (not PWM) when modding the connector to the fan header.
Its max rpm was 4400 and startet up at 1900, it had 2100 unstable when below certain voltage, but then goes back to slower to 1900 and then linearly to 4200 which was max voltage of the fan header.
Do you know a replacement pcb for that pump other than this one?
There seems to be complete ddc pumps at the price of this pcb replacement aswell.. so I'm uncertain if i even should try a expensive repair.
Good video
I've had this pump since I moved in to water cooling around 10years ago. Always overclocking cpu and gpu with a 360radiator. Athlon xp 2400+, core2duo e8400, and recently my r5 2600... this pump is a beauty and with that mod, it's perfect. Use some adhesive soft pads from chairs or tables on it's bottom, and it becomes real quiet.
Thanks man!! I appreciate that. Everyone like to rag on the ddc pumps. I think they're great.
@@CyberDenSystems, I was going to do this mod, but instead I simply changed the plug to a 3 pin fan plug and connected it directly to the motherboard cpu plug and have it running at a minimum of 60% to 100% power. This way it ramps up and never shutsdown, going between 1500-3400rpm. It's easier and doesn't envolve buying anything or soldering. Thanks 😊
@@nelsoncasquinha Sorry to necro this, but I tried that after going back to the dc pcb, and my pump doesn't seem to go below full speed regardless of what I set it to. I'm on an Asus x570-i. How did you get your's to work?
@@DUD3_BR0 probably settings on the bios, it needs to receive the sufficient amount of voltage to work. This said, you need to put the threshold a bit higher probably.
Also on windows, I use a github app called fan control if I'm not mistaken.
@@nelsoncasquinha hmm, yeah I'm also using fan control. Mine just stalls out below 70% Thanks for the response. I'll have to keep looking into it.
Thx for a nice and informative video.
Best regards
4:15 - In PWM control, 12V is supplied constantly From the motherboard to the pump/fan. The PWM signal varies to tell the power-regulating IC on boart of the pump to adjust the power supplied. In DC (3 pin), the motherboard directly varies the voltage supplied to the pump/fan. PWM control allows for a more accurate speed control. Nowadays that mod isn't necessary since modern bioses can regulate both 3 and 4 pins speed, they even auto-detect what kind of pump/fan you have connected and they go DC or PWM. And what about the power increase... it's not all that necessary, tbh... a 10w pump is quite enough to manage the flow in a small circuit such as a water cooling loop of a computer.
Great DIY content. after having several EK pumps. they are delay starting and sometimes requires tapping on. EK supplied me with 3 to cover two pumps. have you ever seen any delay start? they don't stop once spinning. any feedback appreciated.
Thanks man!! Working on a few more videos. I've never had that issue, but I have heard about it. If its easy to get out, I would pull the impeller out and inspect for any debry. The bearing is only used during startup and shutdown. While its running its suspended in the fluid and magnetic field being generated. I would also unplug it and inspect the pins. A bad connection can cause excessive resistance, increasing amperage, witch would cause an increase in heat. Over time, that can where down the pins at there point of contact.
hello, you videos are great. But i want to implement model EK-XTOP SPC-60 PWM water pump with a flow meter and can i get a video of this process. Thank you.
Great video. Needed to find out if I could just use the existing PCB board and just solider the extra wire to the PWM connection and connect it to a four pin connector and do it that way? Or, do I actually have to take off the PCB board and replace it with that new board that can you put on?
Glad to see you're back to posting videos. Did you finish your PFSense router? Maybe it's time for another build tour video.
Thanks man. I did finish it and it's been running great. I'll be doing a video shortly on my network setup. I got a server chassis, a couple server cases to transplant everything into, and some other gear to put into it. Gonna get custom painted and some water cooling involved. It sprung a leak recently so I gotta get moving on it.
I have nothing but issues using the pwm version (6watt)
Most of them I have to tap the pump to get it to start. SATA or molex uses 18w never had issues with them
Finally got my pcb in to do this mod, installed it and omg it's way louder than the original. IDK if it's because my pump is mounted to the cpu heatsink, but the pwm pulse noise is ridiculous, even with the pump at 25%. does anyone know how to quiet that down? I was really hoping this would work, as the pump is the loudest part of my system.
Funny enough i acutally looked for a video on how to convert the connection on my corsair water cooling kit on my pc and this video came up , thanks again Den ;) . any progress on our project ? i havnt been able to check my emails lately
Good to see my videos coming up in searches. Lol. As far as the project.. all I'm gonna say, is that there is another reason for this video. 😜
haha yeh i know id get what i wanted to know when i seen the CyberDen in the name lol , and Oohhhh very smart haha , i cant wait to see a update on what it looks like , the hype is too real , for sure this is the longest collab project lol , its been like a year of progress ,
How to repair a d5pump,when i start it goes on and stop again,the back side is so solid,is there a way to open it?
Sorry my friend. As far as I know, there isn't any way to open then and fix them. Have you tried a different psu? I have seen a bad psu cause that that problem.
Is it safe to only plug this into a fan header? From what I'm reading some have said you might fry the header trying to power the pump off of it.
You do gotta check and find out the amperage your headers can handle. But, most modern mother boards have enough amperage to run this. I wouldn't try a D5, but a ddc shouldn't be an issue. I've had it running my in my nas 24/7 since shortly after posting this, on an old z77 board. Gigabyte g1 sniper 3 to be exact. Haven't had any issues.
@@CyberDenSystems Thanks for the quick reply. I have an X570 mini-ITX board and surprisingly the amperage isn't listed in the manual. I have a MCP350 (DDC 3.1) which is only 10W so assuming that the headers are only rated at 1A I should be safe.
Yah I'd say you won't have an issue with that. I'm actually surprised a board like that doesn't have a header labeled, "pump", since that's a popular thing to put on boards nowadays.
Most newer mobos have pump headers that are 3 amp rated. If you don't have this, then get an adapter that splits the PWM & RPM to the a 4pin fan header connector and voltage to a Molex or SATA connector. Or wire it like the newer DDCs that have two connectors.
@@ezveedub238 Or wire power by Molex and tachometer signal by 3 pin plug to Aquacomputer Poweradjust 3 Ultimate.
I love this mod.
whats the point of doing this besides to add pwn control or replace a burned out pcb? im wanting to change the rpm on my alphacool ddc310 pump and it currently maxes out at around 3190rpm but im having issues with my gpu hovering around 80-84c under load so i thin the pump flows too slow
Those would be the only reason to do this. I haven't used the 310 pumps yet, and dont know if the coils are different on them. So I dont know if this mod would help you out in your situation.
Loved the video! Thats a nice mod, niche one, but it worth it!
Thanks man!! I'd agree it's pretty niche. But it was educational. 🤓
CyberDen Systems only hardcore enthusiasts knows the pleasure to mod such things! Cheers from Brazil!
One led to short to reach PCB Can I solder a pigtail to make longer
I dont see why not. If it's just to extend the led, then it shouldn't have any negative effect.
Will this work to upgrade the EKWB Predator pump? it is a DDC 3.1 6w, i expanded the Predator and i think the pump is not keeping up, i heard that you can make it spin faster by upgrading it with this PCB.
Yes sir it will. That aio uses the same ddc pump. You won't be able to see the leds, but it'll fix the dead pump. Just make sure to solder the cables back in the same position on the new board.
And it'll give you more control over the speed.
Ty man! just to be sure, my pump is not dead, it's just that i heard it's not potent enough for 2 rads + cpu block + gpu block + reservoir, so i think i am missing some performance out of it.
Oops. I missed that in your last comment. Lol. If you ahead with the mod be sure to post back.
i am thinking of buying one, so the original pcb cant even pwm?or tweak it to pwm? like the 3 speeds you got on your case speed control?
The original pcb does indeed have a 4th solder point witch it shorted to power. So it may have the ability to be pwm controlled. But since it was no good I didn't have the option of trying it.
Hi, do you know where i could buy the ddc pump?
Diyinhk keeps saying my darn email is invalid i can't order the parts its annoying
Uncle. “Voice-over” is not your thing. Better yet, just BE SILENT!