Things I used in this video: 1. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 2. Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/2iasnep 3. Crowfoot Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kij4gO 4. Power Steering Fluid: amzn.to/2ides7g 5. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 6. Steel Jack: amzn.to/2Asgjxo 7. Jack Stand: amzn.to/2jGOwBg 8. Shop Towels: amzn.to/2jxKone 9. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO 10. Common Sense 11. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX 12. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9 13. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 14. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 15. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ❗️Check out the Scotty store: goo.gl/RwhRGU 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
When replacing a rack and pinion make sure you center the rack, flush the system, clean or replace the reservoir, lock the steering wheel in place to prevent damaging the clock spring and bleed the system after the installation is done. Just a few more tips for beginners
I used to watch this guy years ago when I lived in Texas. He has a segment on the news in the morning for car tips. Always something informative and entertaining. I'm glad he included the part about swearing as you try to remove the rack, because that is 100% accurate and necessary to complete the job. lol
I had to take out the brake line mounts to make more room to get it out of the way. I was even considering removing the exhaust pipe, in order to try and get the subframe to lower even more, but when I initially tried, the bolts got rounded off. I eventually was able to push the part of the steering rack that connects to the steering column past the array of brake lines. And then there's more swearing when it comes to putting back the heat shield, and putting back the pinch bolt. It's like every step in the process involves swearing.
For those about to do this job, keep in mind that some cars don't take regular power steering fluid. Toyotas generally use ATF in the power steering systems, check the cap for the fluid requirements. Just a tip!
Scott be like.. "how to replace an engine." in a 2min video {Cheesy intro goes here} (1) Remove bolts (2)Remove engine (3) Put new engine in voila! {Cheesy outro}
Other than draining the coolant and removing the power and electric connections it's pretty much that straight forward, it might not happen as fast as you can say it or edit it into a video but it's not complex at all.
A Point to make: Be sure the steering wheel is centered and locked before you start removing the Rack. That way the steering wheel clockspring won't be broken. You can slide the rack back and forth to match the sheel straight ahead position before connecting the Steering wheel pinch bolt connection. Your mileage may vary.. mark
I got an estimate from a shop for my Toyota Sienna. 4 hours ($125 per hours) labor, fluid and shop supplies $50, alignment $90. Total labor is about $650 + tax. Scotty could do it in less than 1 hour. What a difference !!! I wish I live near Scotty's shop.
Never hide from anything. Or the devil will surely do some bad stuff to you. Facing things head on is getting what you want, living in paradise. Would you deny yourself of your dream girl?
It's also a very good time to replace inner & outer tie rod ends, sway bar links, and whatever else may be shot underneath the car. On some cars I think you have to drop the sub frame to get the p/s rack in/out.
Most fwd cars you do now because of how they stuff them in there. And yeah it's a good idea to replace all the suspension components that are worn when you do something like this since you're already taking it apart and paying for an alignment.
I'm going to suggest that while you are replacing the steering rack, replace all of the fluid and install an in line filter. Also if you can, take the power steering pump off and look for any problems like leaks, chips, cracks. And if the pump is leaking around the fittings or the reservoir, you can get an o-ring kit to replace the old ones with. Might as well check it all before you put bad old fluid into a new rack.
Good quick video, great for reference. Wish you would have shown locking the steering wheel, a lot of people who would get the most from this video aren't going to know about the clock spring and air bag issues if the steering shaft isn't put on in the right position.
Having this repair done after the new year. I have a minor leak in my power steering rack but I’m replacing the old one next week to avoid serious safety issues.
Scotty_ You've done it again!! THANK YOU. About to troubleshoot a leaking p/s pump, and after seeing this AND your previous video about "noisy p/s units" , and the often overlooked pressure regulator valve, I will not "jump the gun" and simply replace the p/s pump.....THANK YOU.
It's important to note that not all vehicles rack and pinions are easy to change like this one. I believe this was a Chevy venture or uplander, one that obviously hasn't spent much time in a rust belt state. And yes as a previous person stated, LOCK THE STEERING WHEEL.
+adventureoflinkmk2 Funny you should say that because the van in this video uses a unibody. My point is, do your research on how to work on YOUR car. If you had ever changed a rack on a Sebring convertible, or really any damielchrysler(besides the SUV/truck line)Every vehicle can be VASTLY different from the next.
I totally agree. This guy takes no shortcuts !! Obviously, each step takes time, but who wants to wait for liquid wrench to loosen up a nut? This video makes it easy to remember and more fun to try out yourself. I sure hope I don't need a steering rack too soon for my 2011 Impala. Btw: How long do steering racks last in general? I do a ton of steering and should I try changing my rack this summer myself? Looks easy. I love this guy also. Got me so wound up I am still rambling. But this guy made a ton of videos and he's always cheering me up so I agree. Thumbs up big time !!
You should loose the steering shaft clamp bolt first if you have to drop the sub-frame to get enough clearance to pull out the rack. If you don't and forget, it will slightly bend the end of the shaft. It will come right off when you realize your mistake but then will take about 3 days to get the slightly bent shaft back into the new rack clamp correctly. Lots of fun.
Scotty your right ! I didn't wanna replace the rack in my rear wheel drive 85 Toyota GTS 5spd with a aftermarket cause I HATE aftermarket so I tried calling Toyota for a oring seal kit and replace the seals in the rack I had. I'm mad cause they discontinued the seal kit so had a new Genuine rack from California shipped to me. All this ramble from me was just to back up what you were saying about just replacing the whole rack and keep shit movin'. Thanks brother. Season Greetings and a Happy New Year to you & who evers reading this comment.
Scotty I don't know if you read these old post comments you're the only guy I know that can do a 30-hour job video in 3 minutes you've done a lot of videos since this one brother
I really appreciate the emphasis on the cursing and swearing part. Car companies should require their design engineers to spend a few years as a mechanic before their allowed to design these impossible to get to components.
We are lucky that we can still curse our cars. In the land of rotten teeth, the Queen has enacted hate speech laws. Wouldn't that suck to be working on your car and get 2 years in prison for cursing it.
I just worked on my niece 2002 Accord with 4-cylinder. It took me the weekend to complete the job. I wished that I could pulled the rack out from the side as Scotty demonstrated. For mid-size Accord, there aren't much room to maneuver under the engine sub-frame. loosing the exhaust/catalytic converter nuts are required. I also used the crowfoot to loosen the High Pressure hard line flare nut and the Return Hose flare nut from the driver side wheel. There aren't enough room to reach to the flare nuts either from the top or underneath of the car After successfully loosen both flare nuts, then I encountered more difficulty to get rack out. According to some UA-camr tips, they mentioned that the steering wheel must be turned all the way to the left, it caused the driver side inner tie rod end shorter. I also pushed the rack all the way to the passenger side, it allowed the driver side rack came down from the sub-frame. After trial and error, the whole rack came down from underneath the car not pulled out from the side as Scotty demonstrated. Re-installation was much harder than removing. Re-installing the high pressure line was also much harder due to hard line. I don't want to cross threaded the rack thread or the flare nut thread. I used hand to tie them as far as I can go before using the crowfoot wrench. You can do it and the weekend.
I think you missed a couple of very important steps here mister Scotty, first secure the steering wheel so it does not spin while the rack is out and destroy the spiral cable, also the reattach the steering column before the tie rod ends to avoid missing the steering wheel center as well.
Also remember that cars with clock springs and ribbons on the steering wheel you have to keep the wheel more or less stationary as free spinning the steering wheel will damage the clock spring. And no mention of centering the rack prior to connecting the rack pinion to column spline. To enable you to get even turns on both sides when the job is done. I just finished my cursing and swearing and wiping blood off my finger from a rack swap this morning.
Hey Scotty...I'm having this exact Part replaced on my 08 rx 350 at the local Lexus Dealership...I don't have the complete tools or patience for this type of job. I wish you lived near Delaware because you'd be the first one I'd trust. $2300.00 later today I get to pick er up. I didn't realize it had this problem before I purchased the lexus just months ago. Other than this with 107 k miles her she runs like butter 🧈 thanks for all of your videos.
Well Scotty, that looked way to easy. Im about to tackle a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4. I have already replaced the tie rods, but thought the inner was still ok. I went over to the passenger side of the truck and all kinds of fluid came out of the boot. But the side of the rack was dry on the passenger, so I had gone back to the drivers side and I can see straight through the shaft as if a seal was missing. So I hope I can use what you had done here and get this thing out. Also if I can find one that doesn't come with the inner rods since mine are new.
How did it go? I'm replacing my tie rods tomorrow hopefully which will be the last thing before I go looking through the steering system for the shake and play I'm still getting on my 08 Ranger
Hey scotty, I was checking my oil today and it had a strong smell of gasoline. it also had lttile droplets of gasoline on the dipstick I think. What is happening and what should I do? 2010 Honda odyssey 122k miles PS: This was my question from last Saturdays live chat that never got answered lol
+MrRangerZr1 gas getting into the crank case.... Leaking injectors, fuel pressure regulator possibly... You really should track this down soon because gasoline breaks down oil and that's terrible for your bearings.
Very informative video here, but I doubt replacing the steering rack is that easy. In some cases, if not most, you will be required to unbolt the subframe. And that can take some serious time and tool action to accomplish.
Just did this on a 2006 Montana AWD. Was straight forward and was just as described. I replaced both outer tie rods as one was bad, so figured it was time for the other too. The link pins both broke, and are connected to the lower control arm. I pulled the sway bar out to get more room to get at the hose fittings. I was able to get them off using a wrench too (18mm). I also removed the line bracket clamp that was just above the right mounting bolt. Took the car in to get an alignment after the install. Did not need to drop the subframe as the rack came right out the drivers side very easily. This video covered the basics and was a great summary of the job. Thanks for posting this Scotty.
Nice Scotty tried to fix leak with all sort of stop leak even changed seal in my e39 with no luck finally got another rack from scrapyard in good condition fix it and it's ok so far
1999 Ford Taurus ... had my power steering pump as well as rack and pinion replaced, front brakes & rotors done, oil & filter changed and engine compartment exhaust leak repaired for $1014 in SoCal.
scotty you do not fix it, you change it . So call your video "Changing a leaking power steering rack" :) There is a difference between fixing and changing. Still love your videos and thanks for them a lot!!
You forgot a very important step to secure the steering wheel to avoid wiring issues on your steering column. Also use the castle nut bolt to avoid ruining the bolt before you wack it with a hammer. Then run your engine when all done turn 10 times each way with wheels off the ground to get any air out of the system. Finally you can repair the rack if you know how even someone with basic knowledge can do it.
I am planning to do this job myself, in a few weeks, thanks buddy, I like the part about marking the nut to keep things back to where they are supposed to be.
Not a very good idea to hit the end of the tie rod end for fear of damaging threads ! Just hit the housing where the taper sits and it will shock it free Also i wouldnt have put the rack on the dirty floor, soill and grit getting into threads ect ect , other wise good video
HI! Scotty my 09 crv I just replaced the hose steering,BUT I JUST FOUND OUT MY RACK IS LEAKING..omg! THANKS FOR YOUR HELP,IM GONNA TRY TO DO MY OWN CRV.
+hugeslacker Good tip. I once bent the castellations, ruining the nut, so now I thread the nut on upside-down or use another regular nut (easier). Here's another way: Loosen locking nut between inner and outer tie rod ends after painting an alignment mark (for the measurement later on). Slip small rack boot clamp off and run a pocket screwdriver tip under the boot if it's sticking to the tie rod.Turn the inner tie rod hex flats with open end wrench to unthread it from the outer end. Popping the tapered stud with a hammer usually isn't as easy as this time was for Scotty.
@@gemanscombe4985 yes that one stroke of the hammer in this video sure did not do mine ! I was trying to do this with the wheels on in my ignorance. When it came to that step I took off the ramps the van was on and put it on jack stands and took off the front wheels. Then I could (with a nut on there to protect the threads and using a small sledge hammer could swing it hard enough to actually remove those outer tie rod ends from their place. On mine it is upside down from in the video. I think using a $10 pickle fork here would help immensely; i used a big screwdriver which may have helped. The hammering eventually got it. Use silicone spray or a similar product always of course when removing bolts and let it soak in spraying 2 or 3 coats in 10 minutes depending on how hard it is for that wd-40 or whatever you're using to get to the threads. I am working on a 93 quest (van) and I sure hope i do not have to drop the subframe to get the old one out ! Today hopefully I will get to that point. Going to try to find a shop manual somewhere since I do not find that exact video on youtube anywhere. I'm glad people here said to lock the steering wheel. In the video there is no mention of what position the rack is in when it is removed and how to make sure the new one is IN THE SAME POSITION as when the old one is removed as the gears inside allow those tie rods to move from all the way left to all the way right and if we take off the rack in the center position and the new rack is set at a right turn or a left turn position according to another viewer here, and common sense that will not work... they do not self adjust. I am thinking to set the steering wheel straight and clamp it in position somehow (my ignition key has been stuck in there for years so I cannot lock the steering wheel by just removing the key and turning the wheel until it locks). Then measuring how far the the end of the tie rod end is from the center of the steering connection. That way if the new rack differs in some way as to the threads or design, the wheels and the steering wheel will be in the same position when the new rack is installed. Obviously I have not done this before ! Good luck all.
When I was a student mechanic I did it all wrong, didn't measure the bolt distance on my Impala so it ended up toe in but it was just a cheap rust bucket. When I replaced a bearing on a rack and pinion on an Escort I didn't mark where the teeth should go to center the steering wheel at rest position so I shaved off the alignment notch on the steering wheel cause I didn't have time to spend on taking it apart again but it worked out for that job in the end.
Just had this done at the shop. Fluid level looks good but the power steering feels so stiff it's almost as if i have no power steering. They also replaced outer tie rod ends.
the rack on my 85 corolla blew both end seals while i was drifting, hard to find a new one so I just cut the belt and made it a manual steering. Soon to take out all the power steering stuff and just leaving the rack
Hey Scotty I have a 2000 manual mustang v6. it's hard to shift gears when the car is on, but when it's off I have no problem. I recently put in a new clutch and transmission.
Thanks for the great video, Scotty! I need to do this job on our '95 Toyota Avalon XL. Would you recommend using Teflon tape on the power steering line connections? I thought it might be overkill, but I also thought it might be a good way to prevent leaks.
1). Is is the same process with all vehicles, Or just that van? 2). Is there a different process if the vehicle is front wheel, rear wheel, all wheel, or 4x4?
I wish mine was this easy holy hell. On an Accord Euro (Acura TSX) you have to drop the sub frame to get it out. Decided it wasn't worth trying to do by myself and spent a fortune at a shop to get it replaced. Probably would have taken me multiple days to do by myself
Say Scotty... I'm gonna give this a shot. While I'm crawling under there, should I replace anything? I'm thinking of the sway bar bushings and wondered if there were more "might as well" stuff
Hi Scotty , should the power steering reservoir be drained first ?. BTW I have been working on my cars for years and never knew crows foot wrench exist until I watched your video , my live could have been easier, thanks
You are legend mate. Can you tell me if me one thing about the coolant leakage. My Mazda euno parked in garage and I don’t drive it but everyday I can see coolant leakages on floor and drops as well. I am thinking it must be hose pipes . What you think scott?
Things I used in this video:
1. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU
2. Sledge Hammer: amzn.to/2iasnep
3. Crowfoot Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kij4gO
4. Power Steering Fluid: amzn.to/2ides7g
5. Mechanic’s Tool Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg
6. Steel Jack: amzn.to/2Asgjxo
7. Jack Stand: amzn.to/2jGOwBg
8. Shop Towels: amzn.to/2jxKone
9. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO
10. Common Sense
11. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2hZ4AxX
12. Mini Microphone: amzn.to/2newgV9
13. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz
14. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf
15. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C
🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend:
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Scotty Kilmer
What size were the bolts to the frame and crowfoot wrench. I have the same van
Scotty Kilmer been following your channel for some odd years now. Man I love you enthusiasm and the ways you end your videos lol. Always good content.
I noticed there wasn't a link for common sense. Where can I go to get that? :-)
Forgot to mention turn steering wheel side to side, while adding powersteering fluid.
Try this on a Mitsubishi lance 2006 es please
When replacing a rack and pinion make sure you center the rack, flush the system, clean or replace the reservoir, lock the steering wheel in place to prevent damaging the clock spring and bleed the system after the installation is done. Just a few more tips for beginners
I used to watch this guy years ago when I lived in Texas. He has a segment on the news in the morning for car tips. Always something informative and entertaining. I'm glad he included the part about swearing as you try to remove the rack, because that is 100% accurate and necessary to complete the job. lol
I had to take out the brake line mounts to make more room to get it out of the way. I was even considering removing the exhaust pipe, in order to try and get the subframe to lower even more, but when I initially tried, the bolts got rounded off. I eventually was able to push the part of the steering rack that connects to the steering column past the array of brake lines. And then there's more swearing when it comes to putting back the heat shield, and putting back the pinch bolt. It's like every step in the process involves swearing.
For those about to do this job, keep in mind that some cars don't take regular power steering fluid. Toyotas generally use ATF in the power steering systems, check the cap for the fluid requirements. Just a tip!
Atf is power steering fluid unless you're driving a euro car and then it's most likely mineral oil or a synthetic substitute.
true, like some fords too take atf
My volvo Takes atf
I'm pretty sure if someone is smart enough to change the rack they can figure out which fluid to put in it
Dima Aryeh Same on Taurus. It seems like regular power steering fluid is thicker, and I've read it can contribute to messing up valves.
Scott be like.. "how to replace an engine." in a 2min video
{Cheesy intro goes here}
(1) Remove bolts
(2)Remove engine
(3) Put new engine in
voila!
{Cheesy outro}
Other than draining the coolant and removing the power and electric connections it's pretty much that straight forward, it might not happen as fast as you can say it or edit it into a video but it's not complex at all.
Torque to spec... *Ughh*
Super cheesy for sure
Clearly never removed one from a 2003 Ford Escape V6 3.0L XLT 🤔
And he’ll do it on jackstands like wtf 😭
I love how simple this video is and nothing was dragged out hours like other vids.
In reality it took me 5 days, spending 6 hours a day, and I'm still not completely done yet.
A Point to make: Be sure the steering wheel is centered and locked before you start removing the Rack. That way the steering wheel clockspring won't be broken. You can slide the rack back and forth to match the sheel straight ahead position before connecting the Steering wheel pinch bolt connection.
Your mileage may vary..
mark
yeah, how to straigghten the heck outa the steering wheel without it moving when maniupalting the rack and without using an expensive expensive tool?
I think I broke mine mid driving lol
Seat belt wrapped around wheel
Bro signed a UA-cam comment 😅
I'm not gonna lie, you're a pretty cool guy
Pretty? Try "really".
TRY EPIC!😎👍
Duh lol
I got an estimate from a shop for my Toyota Sienna. 4 hours ($125 per hours) labor, fluid and shop supplies $50, alignment $90. Total labor is about $650 + tax. Scotty could do it in less than 1 hour. What a difference !!! I wish I live near Scotty's shop.
Somehow I suspect that the job would be a lot harder for me than you make it look. Hope I never have to tackle it.
I have before it's alot harder than it looks
You just watched it to watch? 😂😂
Never hide from anything. Or the devil will surely do some bad stuff to you. Facing things head on is getting what you want, living in paradise. Would you deny yourself of your dream girl?
The power steering lines is the hardest part
@@Brandon-tn8vumy dad just did it and it truly is.
It's also a very good time to replace inner & outer tie rod ends, sway bar links, and whatever else may be shot underneath the car. On some cars I think you have to drop the sub frame to get the p/s rack in/out.
Most fwd cars you do now because of how they stuff them in there. And yeah it's a good idea to replace all the suspension components that are worn when you do something like this since you're already taking it apart and paying for an alignment.
I'm going to suggest that while you are replacing the steering rack, replace all of the fluid and install an in line filter. Also if you can, take the power steering pump off and look for any problems like leaks, chips, cracks. And if the pump is leaking around the fittings or the reservoir, you can get an o-ring kit to replace the old ones with. Might as well check it all before you put bad old fluid into a new rack.
Good quick video, great for reference. Wish you would have shown locking the steering wheel, a lot of people who would get the most from this video aren't going to know about the clock spring and air bag issues if the steering shaft isn't put on in the right position.
What's the secret to that? Locking the steering wheel that is.
Yikes, after reading this, I think I'll let my mechanic do it!
Must be great to live where there's no road salt. LOL
It is. Thanks.
Tedybear315 It is !🤜
Houston is great
@@stevenmontemayor1870 nice town; traffic sucks. Last time I was there was after Katrina.
What’s salt on roads lol kidding
I use your videos a lot while working on my own car your videos have helped me save a ridiculous amount of money. Thank you for doing these!
Scotty, I love the way you revvvvvv in and revvvvv out. Very succinct delivery, no fluff. Thanks
Having this repair done after the new year. I have a minor leak in my power steering rack but I’m replacing the old one next week to avoid serious safety issues.
Scotty_ You've done it again!! THANK YOU. About to troubleshoot a leaking p/s pump, and after seeing this AND your previous video about "noisy p/s units" , and the often overlooked pressure regulator valve, I will not "jump the gun" and simply replace the p/s pump.....THANK YOU.
It's important to note that not all vehicles rack and pinions are easy to change like this one. I believe this was a Chevy venture or uplander, one that obviously hasn't spent much time in a rust belt state. And yes as a previous person stated, LOCK THE STEERING WHEEL.
+adventureoflinkmk2 Funny you should say that because the van in this video uses a unibody. My point is, do your research on how to work on YOUR car. If you had ever changed a rack on a Sebring convertible, or really any damielchrysler(besides the SUV/truck line)Every vehicle can be VASTLY different from the next.
thank you, 05 chevy uplander I believe
love this guy. everytime I have a problem he makes it so much better.
m Gavin i agree
I totally agree. This guy takes no shortcuts !! Obviously, each step takes time, but who wants to wait for liquid wrench to loosen up a nut? This video makes it easy to remember and more fun to try out yourself. I sure hope I don't need a steering rack too soon for my 2011 Impala. Btw: How long do steering racks last in general? I do a ton of steering and should I try changing my rack this summer myself? Looks easy. I love this guy also. Got me so wound up I am still rambling. But this guy made a ton of videos and he's always cheering me up so I agree. Thumbs up big time !!
@@loveshy007 The one in my Honda lasted 103,000 miles. How about you?
Mark Paradis i still have the original rack and pinion in my 1994 tercel, still working good.
You should loose the steering shaft clamp bolt first if you have to drop the sub-frame to get enough clearance to pull out the rack. If you don't and forget, it will slightly bend the end of the shaft. It will come right off when you realize your mistake but then will take about 3 days to get the slightly bent shaft back into the new rack clamp correctly. Lots of fun.
good point , 2 years later still necessary tip
Scotty your right ! I didn't wanna replace the rack in my rear wheel drive 85 Toyota GTS 5spd with a aftermarket cause I HATE aftermarket so I tried calling Toyota for a oring seal kit and replace the seals in the rack I had. I'm mad cause they discontinued the seal kit so had a new Genuine rack from California shipped to me. All this ramble from me was just to back up what you were saying about just replacing the whole rack and keep shit movin'. Thanks brother. Season Greetings and a Happy New Year to you & who evers reading this comment.
Video is titled, "Fixing a Leaking Power Steering Rack."
Step 1: Replace the whole rack.
...
Step 2: Lots of Coffee.
Video is actually titled " how to change the power steering rack on your car".....
🤣🤣
Scotty I don't know if you read these old post comments you're the only guy I know that can do a 30-hour job video in 3 minutes you've done a lot of videos since this one brother
I really appreciate the emphasis on the cursing and swearing part. Car companies should require their design engineers to spend a few years as a mechanic before their allowed to design these impossible to get to components.
We are lucky that we can still curse our cars. In the land of rotten teeth, the Queen has enacted hate speech laws. Wouldn't that suck to be working on your car and get 2 years in prison for cursing it.
They're not so impossible to get to clearly
Well said but will never happen. Don't you see that is only how dealer keeps his profit at best!
Try doing this on Audi of bmw
I just worked on my niece 2002 Accord with 4-cylinder. It took me the weekend to complete the job. I wished that I could pulled the rack out from the side as Scotty demonstrated. For mid-size Accord, there aren't much room to maneuver under the engine sub-frame. loosing the exhaust/catalytic converter nuts are required. I also used the crowfoot to loosen the High Pressure hard line flare nut and the Return Hose flare nut from the driver side wheel. There aren't enough room to reach to the flare nuts either from the top or underneath of the car After successfully loosen both flare nuts, then I encountered more difficulty to get rack out. According to some UA-camr tips, they mentioned that the steering wheel must be turned all the way to the left, it caused the driver side inner tie rod end shorter. I also pushed the rack all the way to the passenger side, it allowed the driver side rack came down from the sub-frame. After trial and error, the whole rack came down from underneath the car not pulled out from the side as Scotty demonstrated. Re-installation was much harder than removing. Re-installing the high pressure line was also much harder due to hard line. I don't want to cross threaded the rack thread or the flare nut thread. I used hand to tie them as far as I can go before using the crowfoot wrench. You can do it and the weekend.
I think you missed a couple of very important steps here mister Scotty, first secure the steering wheel so it does not spin while the rack is out and destroy the spiral cable, also the reattach the steering column before the tie rod ends to avoid missing the steering wheel center as well.
He makes most scarey leaks and problems seem so easy he takes away the anxiety of these major repairs
Also remember that cars with clock springs and ribbons on the steering wheel you have to keep the wheel more or less stationary as free spinning the steering wheel will damage the clock spring. And no mention of centering the rack prior to connecting the rack pinion to column spline. To enable you to get even turns on both sides when the job is done. I just finished my cursing and swearing and wiping blood off my finger from a rack swap this morning.
Hey Scotty...I'm having this exact Part replaced on my 08 rx 350 at the local Lexus Dealership...I don't have the complete tools or patience for this type of job. I wish you lived near Delaware because you'd be the first one I'd trust. $2300.00 later today I get to pick er up. I didn't realize it had this problem before I purchased the lexus just months ago. Other than this with 107 k miles her she runs like butter 🧈 thanks for all of your videos.
This is great, thanks. Honda is trying to charge me like $1600 for the part and labor. I've found a rack for my 2007 CR-V for less than $300.
Odyssey Van Life It should be $200
next thing they will be putting it inside the engine block ('for stability') and it will cost you a complete engine rebuild ??
@@loveshy007 Hopefully this whole world of designed to fail will be over before they get to that point !!!
One of the few jobs that was not as bad as I expected. 1996 V6 Camry.. 5 hours, and saved $$$$ DIY-ing it.
easy peasy when the car does not have 10 tons of rust and corrosion on the frame. And the frame does not have to dropped.
Well Scotty, that looked way to easy. Im about to tackle a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4. I have already replaced the tie rods, but thought the inner was still ok. I went over to the passenger side of the truck and all kinds of fluid came out of the boot. But the side of the rack was dry on the passenger, so I had gone back to the drivers side and I can see straight through the shaft as if a seal was missing. So I hope I can use what you had done here and get this thing out. Also if I can find one that doesn't come with the inner rods since mine are new.
How did it go? I'm replacing my tie rods tomorrow hopefully which will be the last thing before I go looking through the steering system for the shake and play I'm still getting on my 08 Ranger
On some vehicles it s necessary to unbolt the subframe... and it's a hell of job!!!
+Juan Noguera yes, there are some I won't even touch
+Scotty Kilmer yup 94 camry 3.0 is going to be hell :(
Tu que sabes Juan
You have to drop the subframe on Volvo P80 bodies as well. It's a bear of a job...
Especially when the ape before you cross-threads the subframe bolt and hammers it all the way home!
You taught me more in 3 minutes than all the ridiculous videos I've watched that just promote their business. Thank you!
nice alignment trick but your supposed to measure the inside of the rod as the outside is a less reliable measurement
i've probably told you this 20 times before, but i love you Scotty. you have saved me a bunch of money, s000o many times
Hey scotty, I was checking my oil today and it had a strong smell of gasoline. it also had lttile droplets of gasoline on the dipstick I think. What is happening and what should I do? 2010 Honda odyssey 122k miles
PS: This was my question from last Saturdays live chat that never got answered lol
You're running rich for some reason
xSnakeStyles I had a rich code and turns out it was the MAF sensor. I cleaned that and no CEL since then. the droplets in the oil are still there.
+MrRangerZr1 After the code went away did you get an oil change? Also how is the performance?
xSnakeStyles I am going to do the oil change this weekend. performance is same as b4
+MrRangerZr1 gas getting into the crank case.... Leaking injectors, fuel pressure regulator possibly... You really should track this down soon because gasoline breaks down oil and that's terrible for your bearings.
Had to replace mine on a tacoma 04 & it was leaking like crazy i ripped the boots & such & wow did this help out big time! Thanks totally subbing
Very informative video here, but I doubt replacing the steering rack is that easy. In some cases, if not most, you will be required to unbolt the subframe. And that can take some serious time and tool action to accomplish.
Just did this on a 2006 Montana AWD. Was straight forward and was just as described. I replaced both outer tie rods as one was bad, so figured it was time for the other too. The link pins both broke, and are connected to the lower control arm. I pulled the sway bar out to get more room to get at the hose fittings. I was able to get them off using a wrench too (18mm). I also removed the line bracket clamp that was just above the right mounting bolt. Took the car in to get an alignment after the install. Did not need to drop the subframe as the rack came right out the drivers side very easily. This video covered the basics and was a great summary of the job. Thanks for posting this Scotty.
Nice Scotty tried to fix leak with all sort of stop leak even changed seal in my e39 with no luck finally got another rack from scrapyard in good condition fix it and it's ok so far
This is not a job for the faint of heart. Scotty makes it look easy.
I'm so happy that he didn't make a 2 hour documentary out of it.
Scotty Kilmer : The best mechanic I will say a genius man.
hahaha "cursing and swearing till you get it on" So true!
I Wonder how much money this guy has helped the Internet save. Thanks soo much Scotty !!!
have the car running as your refilling the steering fluid and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed all the air.
+keith kennedy yes, and do that with the vehicle still up in the air
Although many do it that way, you can burn up your power steering pump if it go dry, techs use vacuum pumps with the engine off to avoid this.
keith kennedy
T
the instructions that came with my rack and pinion literally say "Do NOT TURN STEERING WHEEL LOCK TO LOCK"
@@richardgrimes6208 did you get a Detroit axle reman?
1999 Ford Taurus ... had my power steering pump as well as rack and pinion replaced, front brakes & rotors done, oil & filter changed and engine compartment exhaust leak repaired for $1014 in SoCal.
You make it look so easy :) great video as always!
he made it look so easy i did mine and i had to lower the subframe and it took me 4 days
legend says hes still driving that car
49 years of experience, Nice Scotty!
scotty you do not fix it, you change it . So call your video "Changing a leaking power steering rack" :) There is a difference between fixing and changing.
Still love your videos and thanks for them a lot!!
TheCarista I believe the idea is that the only acceptable way to repair it is to replace it so, in a sense, he is repairing the leak.
the title is called fixing a leaking power steering rack. in no sense at all is he fixing the leak because that steering rack still leaks.
Hey, let's not get pedantic here, this isn't 5th grade english class
You forgot a very important step to secure the steering wheel to avoid wiring issues on your steering column. Also use the castle nut bolt to avoid ruining the bolt before you wack it with a hammer. Then run your engine when all done turn 10 times each way with wheels off the ground to get any air out of the system. Finally you can repair the rack if you know how even someone with basic knowledge can do it.
He did, indeed, 'Fix it' - unless the new rack was defective. Sigh.
So the fluid that leaks from the power steering going onto the rack & pinion is a reason to replace the rack and pinion?
how to know if ur steering rack is gone for sure, also can i use a used one to replace ?
I am planning to do this job myself, in a few weeks, thanks buddy, I like the part about marking the nut to keep things back to where they are supposed to be.
Great Vidoe
The best cyber mechanic on the net 💯💪🏽
1:48 Why are you in the dirt almost in the bushes with car parts? 🤦🏻♂️
That's how it is. You think being a technician is a clean job?
@@12mak shoddy mechanics work in the dirt. Simple, put cardboard or plywood if you dont have a concrete pad.
@@dave3464 and what do you do? Changing your own oil does not make you a mechanic.
@@12mak Didn't say I was a mechanic. Although I haven't been to one in 25 years. So I must be doing something right.
a 1994 dodge dakota ive replaced 2 times.. now i just put lucas stop leak in there.. works great
Not a very good idea to hit the end of the tie rod end for fear of damaging threads ! Just hit the housing where the taper sits and it will shock it free
Also i wouldnt have put the rack on the dirty floor, soill and grit getting into threads ect ect , other wise good video
Holy xrap. Hes got diy vids too? This guys the cure to cars
And burp the system to get the air out.. =]
HI! Scotty my 09 crv I just replaced the hose steering,BUT I JUST FOUND OUT MY RACK IS LEAKING..omg! THANKS FOR YOUR HELP,IM GONNA TRY TO DO MY OWN CRV.
Leave the nut on the tie rod end so you don't mess up the threads with a hammer
+hugeslacker Good tip. I once bent the castellations, ruining the nut, so now I thread the nut on upside-down or use another regular nut (easier). Here's another way: Loosen locking nut between inner and outer tie rod ends after painting an alignment mark (for the measurement later on). Slip small rack boot clamp off and run a pocket screwdriver tip under the boot if it's sticking to the tie rod.Turn the inner tie rod hex flats with open end wrench to unthread it from the outer end. Popping the tapered stud with a hammer usually isn't as easy as this time was for Scotty.
Seen someone use a fork tool...
I don't think it really WAS that easy...I think he did the grunt work to loosen it, then started filming later to save time and keep the video short.
@@gemanscombe4985 yes that one stroke of the hammer in this video sure did not do mine ! I was trying to do this with the wheels on in my ignorance. When it came to that step I took off the ramps the van was on and put it on jack stands and took off the front wheels. Then I could (with a nut on there to protect the threads and using a small sledge hammer could swing it hard enough to actually remove those outer tie rod ends from their place. On mine it is upside down from in the video. I think using a $10 pickle fork here would help immensely; i used a big screwdriver which may have helped. The hammering eventually got it. Use silicone spray or a similar product always of course when removing bolts and let it soak in spraying 2 or 3 coats in 10 minutes depending on how hard it is for that wd-40 or whatever you're using to get to the threads. I am working on a 93 quest (van) and I sure hope i do not have to drop the subframe to get the old one out ! Today hopefully I will get to that point. Going to try to find a shop manual somewhere since I do not find that exact video on youtube anywhere. I'm glad people here said to lock the steering wheel. In the video there is no mention of what position the rack is in when it is removed and how to make sure the new one is IN THE SAME POSITION as when the old one is removed as the gears inside allow those tie rods to move from all the way left to all the way right and if we take off the rack in the center position and the new rack is set at a right turn or a left turn position according to another viewer here, and common sense that will not work... they do not self adjust. I am thinking to set the steering wheel straight and clamp it in position somehow (my ignition key has been stuck in there for years so I cannot lock the steering wheel by just removing the key and turning the wheel until it locks). Then measuring how far the the end of the tie rod end is from the center of the steering connection. That way if the new rack differs in some way as to the threads or design, the wheels and the steering wheel will be in the same position when the new rack is installed. Obviously I have not done this before ! Good luck all.
When I was a student mechanic I did it all wrong, didn't measure the bolt distance on my Impala so it ended up toe in but it was just a cheap rust bucket. When I replaced a bearing on a rack and pinion on an Escort I didn't mark where the teeth should go to center the steering wheel at rest position so I shaved off the alignment notch on the steering wheel cause I didn't have time to spend on taking it apart again but it worked out for that job in the end.
lots of cursing and swearing. But you make it look easy.
M
torsion bar or sway bar???? rev up your enginess!!!
it goes by several names. i find the term 'sway bar' misleading.
@@steveneumeyer681 titty bar
thanks for the advice on replacing the rack verses rebuilding it. shops want a small fortune to replace the rack.
not a dull moment watching how to do it.. more action than talk.. i like that style!
Just had this done at the shop. Fluid level looks good but the power steering feels so stiff it's almost as if i have no power steering. They also replaced outer tie rod ends.
the rack on my 85 corolla blew both end seals while i was drifting, hard to find a new one so I just cut the belt and made it a manual steering. Soon to take out all the power steering stuff and just leaving the rack
It's nice to watch Scotty repair cars.
You the best !!! I have solve many problems in my car watching your helpful videos. Thank you Scotty Kilmer.
You make it seem so easy. I think I have to replace mine on my ‘10 Honda civic and I’m so nervous
I like the cursing and swearing requirement to replace this part! Very nice demo!
Every minute of Scotty time is like an hour and a half of regular labour time. By that measure this is something like a 5 hour job
Hey Scotty I have a 2000 manual mustang v6. it's hard to shift gears when the car is on, but when it's off I have no problem. I recently put in a new clutch and transmission.
I just did one with my friend. It took a bit of elbow grease. Thank you.
Sweet Trick with the cardboard for measuring the nut placement... I be using that... Thanks Scotty
did this last week, but still nice to watch the video
He's entertaining and experienced.
I am going to fix my little problem my self thanks alot for the video Scotty
Thank you scotty I am now gonna change mine to do what you just did in that track
You are so funny, "cursing and swearing"...I like the video. you made it look easy. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for the great video, Scotty! I need to do this job on our '95 Toyota Avalon XL. Would you recommend using Teflon tape on the power steering line connections? I thought it might be overkill, but I also thought it might be a good way to prevent leaks.
1). Is is the same process with all vehicles, Or just that van?
2). Is there a different process if the vehicle is front wheel, rear wheel, all wheel, or 4x4?
Thank you for the condensed version!
nice video!
I cant wait to do mine! now that i have seen this my confidence is UP!
Looks so darn easy but I think it's 4-6 hours job. Not to mention the reach problems with tight spaces. My 96 Accord needs rack replaced
This man is the GOAT
This man makes things looks real eazy
You make it look so easy scotty
I wish mine was this easy holy hell. On an Accord Euro (Acura TSX) you have to drop the sub frame to get it out. Decided it wasn't worth trying to do by myself and spent a fortune at a shop to get it replaced. Probably would have taken me multiple days to do by myself
Thank you Scotty Kilmer love your videos and so does the kids
Say Scotty... I'm gonna give this a shot. While I'm crawling under there, should I replace anything? I'm thinking of the sway bar bushings and wondered if there were more "might as well" stuff
Love Scotty but he GREATLY understates ``CURSE & SWEAR'' coming out AND going in !! RoyalFPIA !++
Hi Scotty , should the power steering reservoir be drained first ?. BTW I have been working on my cars for years and never knew crows foot wrench exist until I watched your video , my live could have been easier, thanks
Hello Scotty, you make it look so effortlessly. I'm thinking about changing mine but I'm no mechanic. Any words of advice?
You are legend mate. Can you tell me if me one thing about the coolant leakage. My Mazda euno parked in garage and I don’t drive it but everyday I can see coolant leakages on floor and drops as well. I am thinking it must be hose pipes . What you think scott?
The video is very good and easy to understand; I wonder, will you have any for those that are electric (EPS?
Thank you
"Wiggle and curse and swear" An import part of all back yard mechanical work! Love you videos