I 3D Printed a Liquid Piston Engine
Вставка
- Опубліковано 29 лип 2022
- Enter at www.omaze.com/Integza for your chance to win an Unplugged Tesla Model S-APEX Plaid, and support a great cause, the Juju Foundation.
Liquid Piston :www.liquidpiston.com/
3D Models
Liquid Piston Engine:social.thangs.com/m/214742
Prusa SL1S:www.prusa3d.com/product/origi...
Siraya Tech Resins:siraya.tech/collections/all
Follow me on Instagram: / integza
Support me on Patreon: / integza
Paypal me:paypal.me/jgomes1992?locale.x...
Discord: / discord
Reddit: / integza
#rotary #engine #3dprinting - Наука та технологія
You can try to lighter the shaft and change the magnet sensor to a light sensor ( diode).
Tomatoes are disgusting!
Plus you'd lose less energy to the magnet (because every bit counts no matter how light the force may be)
Yeah, the magnets are ok for a proof of concept but for efficiency the design needs to be changed.
@@petthefrog9640 yeah
@@ittech3544 there are a lot of things that can be improved
@@FirstLast-cc6cv For sure
The magnet might make the spinning part unbalanced so either balance it or make a valve that is driven from the output shaft.
putting a magnet at the opposite side would balance it and trigger twice per rotation instead of once, win win power wise
Driven from the output shaft, use solid state reed relay, a digital hall effect sensor it's much faster and more precise, use two of the same magnets symmetrically located, but one turned south side up, the other turned north side up, the two magnets will balance each other out, but the sensor will give a rising edge once per revolution
@@alexc2616 Yeah but wouldnt that make it gobble up 2x the fuel/co2
Is this idea is inspired from current petrol ,disel engines
@@alexc2616 I would even try three magnets
Since the rotor is symmetrical, put magnets on both sides, that way each valve is triggered twice a rotation. In theory this should produce twice the power and your motor will run smoother
It'll also balance the rotor's weight
Yes I don’t see why this wasn’t obvious the first time. Twice the power, plus balancing the rotor. Obvious solution.
If set to power a car or plane it’s gonna need to run on either fuel or steam, if he tries steam your idea might work but like he said he wants to run a car or something with it and steam systems are heavy, his best bet is fuel which means he needs to follow the original design and actually use the intended power type which means keeping 3 separate chambers and the 3 separate strokes of the engine, which also means he’s probably gonna want 3 liquid pistons which would fix the balance on its own
@@stevenbryant3055 and then you've built an RX7 engine.
@@jeremy8942 brap brap brap brap
A tip, instead of sanding the parts when it's a rotary friction use an abrasive compound like a 600 or 1000 grit lapping paste and then work up to a polishing grit. Just put it on the surfaces making contact and spin it normally assembled for a few minutes. Clean and replace compound every few minutes and don't worry about parts staying rigidly against each others, lateral movement will make for a better removal and polish. Might take 15 20 minutes but you can potentially end up with thousandths of an inch tolerances or even more precise with technique. Then you can get away with no lubricant as long as the parts don't start moving out of tolerance from wear elsewhere.
This works best with hard, polish-able materials. The resin he's printing with (which I also print with) isn't awful, but it might be better to give it a hard coating first. I have no idea what would work best for this, but he seems like the kind of guy who will experiment to find out.
The harder the plastic grade, the less grip there is on the surface. So I’d go with the highest solid printable filament and coat all the parts with ceramic coating. It’s very impractical to sand and polish small parts with strategical shapes because you will never bring the surface back. You’d need a dermal with various attachments and it’ll never be consistent and likely create uneven surfaces .
Should also use engine oil. Literally designed for this purpose
White paste toothpaste is actually a great polish for plastics
Read the position of the shaft for your valve timing instead of magnets on the piston, might also need a small flywheel to smooth it out.
ohh that would be cool like a cam and the lobe could trigger a limit switch
What do you think, is the Wankel model not more efficient? Instead of weakening the walls, change the shape of the rotor. Seals on the rotor instead of the wall. Pockets in each rotor to increase capacity. What he did, plugging inlets into all of them, tripling the injectors; The efficiency just dropped like a rock. Should definitely add a flywheel. Magnets in 3 places instead of 1 to better balance the rotor and reduce wear, tripling the injection cycles, get the same effect as tripling the injectors without such a loss in efficiency.
You van use a hall effect sensor/encoder for this. Hook it up to an Arduino and control the timing of the valve. This way you can vary the position and length of the valve being open.
Why? It would make no difference, given that the shaft and piston are mechanically locked in sync.
@@TheMrTape Because the magnets on the piston cause it to be very out of balance, and having magnets on the shaft is much more compact and allows easy changing of the timing, just rotate the hall effect / reed switch / encoder housing.
Video idea: Can you make rocket with a thrust vector control similar to spacex falcon 1? With a couple of linear actuators and an arduino controller it should be doable
Some guy does that on the tube I beleive don't know tbe name offhand
@@derrekvanee4567 project air? Might be. It’s very difficult though
Thrust vector control is a REALLY hard problem to solve and is more of a software problem then hardware design. If you want to see someone do it, check out BPS space. It super impressive
@@mr.peanut2096 Yea I was gonna mention BPS!
@@EchoBuildsThings BPS.Space
With a hall sensor you can monitor the position and speed of each rotation, allowing you to fine tune for the optimal point to open the solenoids and for how long. You can even use a potentiometer to shorten the duration of each pulse so you can control the engine speed
yes, and have the valve open for a pulse, starting and ending with optimal timing.
And no electric cars are not cleaned. We just export the waste problem to country's that produce the batteries.
You can use a timing belt to have the valves time properly and use a third hole to eliminate any lag in the system
i was gonna suggest something similar but using brushes since it would create less drag
Or a one way,reed type valve
Something to keep in mind is that the co2 goes through a non adiabatic expansion in the Chamber which causes cooling in the system, causing a drop in efficiency after each activation. Switching back to high pressure air will give you better efficiency for longer durations
or he could try to add some sort of chamber to act as a buffer and give the dry ice time to evaporate.
I've seen this problem in a bunch of his co2 powered projects.
@@benjmpotato2776 the best way would be to put a heat exchanger on the output of the co2, and a little fan to move air through the heat exchanger, it would do the opposite of what you do to cool your pc, it would warm the heat exchanger and give more energy to the gas, to make sure maximum pressure is given to the gas.
@@iEnergySupply What about get the knowledge of valve timing/opening duration and move on to some combustion ?
Forget that.
The best way to go is steam, as originally sugested by @Danielle O'Hallisey
@@BokoMoko65 yeah I was just suggesting a way to make the co2 work better.
I think you could do two things relatively easily to improve the engine’s power - first use an encoder on the output shaft to monitor the rotor position and use an MCU to control the air or ignition in each cylinder. That way you can also easily and repeatably adjust timing for maximum power.
Second, use inlets for all three chambers to maximize power generation. I think the timing method is the most important change for maximizing power though.
Why not just modify the design of a points style distributer in an older car? Just make a triangle shaped cam that spins on the output shaft, then he can put a micro limit switch mounted on oblongs so he can adjust the timing. Why the computer for such a simple machine?
@@josephdarpa5859 Using code is easier to get precise timings for one, and it's likely the timing would need to be variable at different pressures to ensure maximum performance.
@@josephdarpa5859 also, the triangle lobe with a single switch will not trigger each of the 3 events(3 valves) properly
@@Storm13Cloud integza typically likes mechanical over code.. the design is more important (elegant in some eyes) mechanically where adding a programmable controller allows for a simpler design.. the stuff made here guy would be the right person to make something like this with a controller.
@@djmjr77 I agree that it's not integza's style, I was just explaining the reasoning behind what the previous comment said about the electronics
Since you use compressed air so much in your videos I think an interesting idea for a future video would be a 3D printed air compressor! You could power it with an electric motor or for some extra fun, a gas turbine!
This would actually be really interesting, especially to see just how much pressure it could create.
yes but I believe he should make a screw air compressor as they are lighter and produce higher psi as well as a continuous flow unlike traditional piston compressors.
at 10:35 , we can see that an other "combustion" on the other side of the rotating piece is possible just before the magnetic switch turns on. and this maybe by adding a magnet on the other side. so it will also balance correctly the piece and help the engine to run better
There are some issues with the current solution of your engine (sadly), BUT i can write up a few things you can change!
For starters your still only using half its potential power, if you put magnets on the other side of the rotor as well, then you'll get twice the output, i would also suggest making gasket to get a better use of the compressed air.
Another thing you can do is make an ECU (electronic control unit), this would allow for control of the timings of the valves just like in a real car, this allows you to control how fast you want the engine to spin as well as how long each valve is open and closed, this can be done by adding an raspberry pi to see what Eletro magnet switch is on at what point and check how long it takes for it to reach the next one.
doing this could also allow for data output into graphs to allow you to see the power spikes along with its rotation speed. This is one of the things i would of done on many of your old projects as you have a tendency to make them all run as fast as they can without any control.
Not only does this shorten the life span of the engine but it also doesn't help if you cant control the engine, as it would just be a glorified spinner with no way to control it.
Most engines need to start with low speed with high torque and get higher and higher speeds as time goes on with less and less torque as its already up to speed. this would help combat the friction you keep getting stuck with and it will also help when you put a load onto the output ether to generate power or to spin something. hope this helps.
I have also send you an email so hopefully you'll see this i used to study this at college as well as do it as my job but in the last two years i have moved into game creation and i love 3D printing my projects so that's how i came across your channel. (although i only have a half broken 3D printer that is very small, lol).
I would love to have a chat with you about this sometime and give you a hand so let me know.
If you want to keep using CO2 cartridges I would highly recommend having a way to keep them somewhat warm so they do not lose power as they get colder and colder
To reduce the wobble in the piston, make sure to have a way to use the bearings on both sides of the motor housing.
For making clear resin parts clear, and to lubricate them, I've found it very handy to sand then up to 800 grit sand paper, then buff the parts with Dow Corning 111. DC111 is sold as an oring lubricant, but being silicon based keeps it from degrading the 3D prints and greatly reduces friction. It also has a high surface tension, so it stays in place very well.
If you don't want a lubricant on the surface, another great way to make clear parts clear is with Novas 123. It's a multi step plastic polish that also works great on aged headlight lenses.
I hope this comment gets pinned. Thanks for sharing
I think that in actuality at how fast rotary engines spin I think the imbalance of the magnets on that 1 side will eventually cause issues maybe only in high horsepower applications though because Mazda's rotors weren't even all equal from the factory
I think magnets on both sides could improve it
He also needs a flywheel to store excess momentum.
He can also add a counterbalance to that flywheel...
Then he can also just place contacts on the flywheel or shaft to make contact in the right place (should also be tunable) which can be also be done cheaply for each chamber.
Gonna suggest a pressure regulator between the cartridge and first solinoid valve...at one point you could see co2 vapor as exhaust..suggests TOO MUCH was being used. The liquid had not finished expanding (rich mixture)..If this is the case, you should be able to extend your run times.
I was thinking the same thing but I'd try putting the magnet on the output shaft rather than in the engine itself
@@natemartin9283 like a distributor
flywheel, output shaft, timing sensor on output shaft, looks like you could reduce blowby between the chambers aswell. rotor balance is important. im sure you're thinking of all these things anyway, its only early days so far. extremely cool i look forward to the next developments
I think a small optical switch would work great, basically have a transparent disc with 1 or 2 black marks that trigger the valve, or the opposite depending on what kind of switch you use. magnets work too.
the advantage of a separate disk is that you can turn it to adjust the timing.
You can actually use steel because it has less friction
and easier to seal.
and place another pair of magnets in the opposite end of the rotar to get twice the pulses in each round which means more power,
and you can make some chambers in the casing that has some oiling mechanism to reduce friction as much as you can.
If he uses steel, he likely has to move the magnets to the shaft.
Since the valve is a triangle shaped
I don't see how the rotor might get faster by pulses pushing it from opposite directions
@@Sphinxycatto The cylinder is an ellipse (but you can easily imagine as / simplify it to a line ) which has a top and a bottom. In the version in video, it is only pushed at the top part. You also can push the bottom part.
Hi integza, with the magnet on only one side of the rotor, you're only firing the "cylinder" at a 50% duty cycle - it could be firing for the other side of the rotor too. with a magnet on each side of the rotor and with gas hooked up to all 3 "cylinders" (lobes?) you would be able to get better torque and more power!
Edit: like this comment so he sees!
I completely agree. Not only is it only using 50% duty cycle but the other 50% is hindered by having a counterweight on the flywheel so it would more than double the power in my opinion. I hope he comes up with a way to measure it's power and torque at some point.
Was literally about to comment that
you copied my suggestion and somehow got more likes on it... neither of us got enough for the printer though hahaha
@@lukearts2954 didn't see your comment before I made mine, sorry pal 🤷♂️
Completely agree, but it is also causing an imbalanced rotation, so adding magnets to the other side for a 100% duty cycle should also make it smoother overall increasing power even more.
Something about this video feels like a step up in quality. Great work!!!
I noticed the weight of the magnets and the timing greatly helped in the torque of the rotation. well done mate.
I would grab a high pressure nitrogen tank(s)(used in paintball). Small one could fit in a large RC car/boat. Going to a light sensing unit would help with the unbalance... Also wonder if you could power it with a steam engine =))
Nitrogen is less powerful than CO2, it's a myth and it's been busted all over the web(even Cody's lab made a video on it), search on youtube. And HPA is more powerful/stable than both of them. Helium is the "bomb", which is more powerful than HPA (search helium+airgun). Sorry people! 🤭
To mate moving parts with close tolerances, you can use grinding compound and lap the parts (grind against each other in place).
You beat me too it 🤣
Best way to make an engine purr like a kitten 😉
I missed this post somehow. I just replied that he should use lapping compound for the same reason.
I worked on in-flight optical sorters used in recycleing plants, they used high flow MAC solenoid valves that would DEFINITELY flow enough for this purpose, assuming your compressor and supply line are up to the task.
If I was you I’d do a couple of things.
1. Tighter seals, especially around the rotary shaft, to increase compression and efficiency.
2. When you hooked up multiple CO2 canisters, you could see the material shredding. You need to lubricate it so it doesn’t destroy itself. Maybe an oil pump driven by the shaft to save on waste output?
3. I’m not sure how to fix this one but you’re not changing the 4 strokes that would (eventually) be in place. You’re essentially just integrating the camshaft into the piston cylinders of an ICE. So timing will get more complicated, especially on the injection and exhaust stroke.
Overall, cool design and concept! Can’t wait to see what you do next with it!
Great video! The pilot valve has a small port restricting flow. Try a bigger port 3/2 valve as the valve you are using is just for pilot signals and not flow. Also try adding a small air lubricator to the supply airflow, the droplets of oil will assist in sealing.
Hi, I would like to suggest a theme for a future video.
I enjoy watching your videos and find them informative. My suggestions would be to do a video comparing the different engines you have built in terms of durability, energy efficiency, power or torque output, etc.
Thanks and I look forward to your future videos.
@@manwiththering9224 He has gone from ~900 to 1300 in 5 minutes how is it possible?
@integza I hope you are not fooled by this BOT account.. on the time of this comment he got 1.4k in ~30 min.. I don't know how but that is not legit
Scammer u got 1.4k in 30 min..
So funny the BOTs are removed by UA-cam and the like count drops 🤣🤣
You need to improve upon your cam shaft, and move the magnets outside of the piston housing. Then the magnets should be placed along the camshaft and you can adjust the timing from there. This will also help you balance the entire system which will increase efficiency. The goal needs to be balancing the entire rotating structure.
As you already have the Compressor, you could try mounting several valves in parallel to decrease the pressure loss, all connected to one motor inlet. That way you could try to get longer (and cheaper) runtines. Also you could try to paint a part of the rotor a light color and use a microcontroller to trigger on the passing-by of the spot, to decrease weight on the rotor.
I'm sure this has already been suggested, but a second pair of magnets would balance the rotational assembly while giving you two power pulses per rotation. Smoother power delivery, and likely reduce the gear lash from asymmetrical pulses! Great video, interested to see where you go with it.
^This^
Damn yeah, double the frequency and its balanced
@@Jamesdavey358 doesn't emulate the combustion cycle , but it's a far more efficient air engine.
I doubt he could get higher rpm out of it though because that's limited my the speed of the air in the engine
You should definitely try to make a turboprop engine. Would be a good in-between for the combustion engines and the jet engines you already made...
Its a great idea
Great idea
I have to agree.
You should add a second magnet in the opposite place on the rotor , and you should use this system to ignite the fuel llike a winkle engine.
@Andrew Kay I can't find any turboprop video from him, but if you find one, I'd love to see it
Place a magnet on both ends. This has two benefits - 1. It will keep the rotating part stable. 2. The valve will be triggered twice as often (think of it like 4-stroke Vs 2-stroke engine).
*_Idea:_*_ Try to make a small-scale model of a tip jet helicopter._
*_a)_*_ Make two rotor blades, mount them on a center bearing, attach some kind of rocket to the outside then test them on a scale for their lift to see if it would be possible to build a flying contraption out of it._
*_b)_*_ If "a)" worked out well, try to make a small-scale version that actually flies (Maybe use a store-bought RC Helicopter that you strip of its electronics)._
_Your videos are amazing, thanks!! Greetings from Switzerland!:)_
Video idea: I would love to see a drag race between all of your different engines on a car platform for example, and test how each engine performs at their absolute limit! Seeing the engine working is something, but seeing it powering a vehicle is a whole other level of entertainment
Idea: the valves can simplified and be self activating! Just a hole on the bottom plate at the right place and the spinning part covers it and uncovers it at the right time. Have to be tuned/placed at a specific spot for the desired rpm - but mechanically simple.
Yep similar to a 2 stroke engine.
I notice on most of your high heat builds you normally use rather small contacts between components. I believe increasing the length of the screw holes (and screw) as well adding a washer and tightening it enough to leave an impression when cold may cause the hot plastic to form around the head instead of pushing them apart.
Hey! I think you should use 2 sets of magnets for activating the valve. Twice the pulses per rotation. Also as other users have suggested, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have the valves triggered by the crankshaft rotating - less weight, faster spinning
Improvement idea: Add a “warming system” instead of a cooling System as normal. This should help it move more freely since there will be less thermal contraction in the bearing and the stop dry ice from forming in the engine on long runs. Additionally it should reduce efficiency drop off since having the chamber cold means that it takes more of the compressed air to achieve the same pressure.
he would need both right? one to cool the engine and one to heat the canistor
idk not sure just a thought : )
@@krishnajadhav1535 he would only need one to heat the engine as this would cause the compressed gas to expand more rapidly and to a higher volume inside of the engine resulting in more power. if he was using combustion to power the engine then he would want to cool the combustion chamber but he is using compressed co2 which is extremely endothermic as it expands.
Upgrade idea:
Do an external Hall effect sensor (trigger wheel) similar to ignition on a car, which should allow adjustment of timing more easily. The timing should allow it to be more efficient.
He could actually make the trigger wheel a part of the rotor in the middle, of anything make the sensor be mounted on oblong holes. Then he could make the sensor mount with a spring pulling the sensor against a screw, that way the timing is adjustable.
I came here to say the same thing. Then it can be advanced/retarded for the perfect activation time.
It would have to be a rather inaccurate hall effect sensor in order to function under such heavy vibrations and movement, but it could probably be done, good idea.
You can use a LED / phototransistor pair (like in a old PC mouse) and a cardboard disk with holes attached to the axle. By changing the hole size, you can control the valve opening time.
Full time liquid lubrication system with a mechanic pump driven by the output shaft or some kind of pneumatic pump driven by the air compressor itself(or vacuum perhaps?) This should allow for better seals and higher revolutions with lower chance for mechanical failure.
Hi Joel, I think this might help you with the engine. Starting with the timing, the magnetic sensor idea rocks! but placing the magnets directly into the rotor might cause vibrations and that could be producing that extra bit of friction, so why dont you try to mount them on the motor shaft? Like if it was a flywheel, that way the magnets will spin allways on a perfect circle and you would get "some" momentum to keep the rotor spinning (like an actual flywheel), the only thing is that you would have to design an extended casing to hold the sensors. I think it might work properly. And for the friction...maybe if you use that CNC machine of yours and try to machine the rotor in aluminum, the weight might help it loose some friction, as if it has more mass, in theory will go faster and as being heavier, has more energy to overcome the friction, but with the powder graphite as well. Hope some of this helps you Joel. Greatings from Spain Neighbour 👋
Alternatively, have 3 or 6 magnets, one for each chamber, if they're 120 degrees apart you get rid of the problem.
Add enough magnetic reference points and you have something very similar to to commercially available ignition timing systems 👍
I’m sure this has been said multiple times but clearance and timing are probably the most important - Source, trust me bro. Also make sure you are sensing the centre thing on both sides, in the first run with one valve you were allowing 1 burst of air for every rotation but because it’s symmetrical you should be able to do 2 bursts per rotation per side. I also think the air compressor would be better for overall run time now that there is 3 valves and you are using the electronic valves
The liquid piston engine does not fire every chamber twice per revolution, so he is trying to stay true to the design by only placing the magnets on one side. I do agree that it would probably run better as an air engine with what you suggest.
@@JThyroid Sure but that's only because it is a combustion engine, and needs one cycle to clear the combustion gases. If the point is to make an air engine on the same geometry, then "wasting" a cycle on clearing nonexistent combustion gases doesn't seem worthwhile.
@@haphazard1342 when you're trying to build a faithful model of an engine it does matter. Otherwise any air engine will just be a Tesla turbine. It's not about making the most efficient air engine, but about optimizing a specific design with specific attributes. The liquid piston engine has the intake and exhaust ports in the rotor, making combustion only possible one one face. I think future iterations of this printed design should at least have the exhaust port built into the rotor.
Graphite powder is a great lubricant for several applications. For instance, door locks. Never oil a door lock - it eventually gathers dust and gums it up. Graphite powder lubricates door locks very effectively.
First off, I love it that you are using the engine design. I would get the weight of the magnets you are using and counter it out on the opposite side (either more magnets or plastic). The main shaft needs to have reduced slop/give. It looks as if you already have a bearing in place so adding something to ride in there to reduce vibration would help.
The valve is kind of redundant by angling the three inputs, no? Or to be more efficient you could time the pulses to fire based on desired rpm (and input pressure) and eliminate the (relatively) heavy magnets.
The angled inputs are generally more efficient at moving the rotor in the desired direction.
You need less weight, less friction and automate the valves to work at high RPM.
Good idea is use a thin teflon cover in the walls. Both the rotary part and the walls should have a thin cover. As janky as your setups always are i don't think you can do much of the tolerances but you need to achieve tight tolerances to not lose pressure too.
Less weight, well plastic is good so that's why teflon walls.
For the automation part, use a very fast micro-controller, a Raspberry Pico should do very well. For the sensor part, magnets are too heavy. you can have metal on metal conductivity. Metal on metal has low friction ad well you only need small pulses of high voltage that's why a fast micro-controller so it is able to detect them at a high polling-rate. So just detect when the rotary part does contact on a desired point to conduct the electricity and then trigger the valve.
Try running the positive cable from the rotary thing connected to a tiny metal panel on it's wall. Then on the walls of the engine put tiny metal plates connected to negative (don't forget the resistor so you don't fry things), try different polling rates if it does not work. It's impossible that it doesn't work. Hope the teflon coating does not prevent electricity. If it does, use the graphite lubricant then. Another way is do it all metal and isolate the electrodes from the rest of the engine.
Again, tolerances need to be tight so it doesn't fail.
I think friction and durability could be improved if he replaces the friction walls of the rotating part with bearing balls.
For the pneumatic valve instead of the Hall effect sensor try using an absolute encoder or a resolver(preferably with more than 3 lobes). With an angular position sensor not only can you time better the air release, you could characterize the motor, approximate a transfer function of input air and output angular speed, or torque, and develop the control algorithm.
I would suggest making the teeth of the housing for the rotating portion smaller and more frequent which will decrease friction, also I’ve seen many valid points about adding sensors and balancing the inner rotating portion. Another good idea would be using a valve that collects gas which emits from the engine and replenishes it into the engine.
Looking at the slow-mo with the three valves it looks like the motion is jittery and not consistent, I suggest using a counterweight to try and smooth out the motion by preserving momentum. At the beginning of the video, it looks like on the original engine they have one so this could help.
You a mean a flywheel? That would be pretty handy in smoothing the rotation
Seems to me, that you can add magnets to the opposite side of the rotor. This will achive two things:
1) Balance the rotor
2) Add power to the system, as the rotor will get twice as much input power
The downside is of course, that this will also add weight and friction. To combat this, you might be able to do two additional changes, depending on the activation strength of your hall sensor:
1) Use smaller neodymium magnets
2) Embed the neodymium magnets in the rotor
# Suggestion for improving the design:
Hey Integza, love your videos, very funny and inspiring at the same time! This is also my first time commenting on your channel, I wanted to offer some feedback from a different perspective...
Don’t know if anybody has thought to comment about this already or not, but the placement of your valve is going to be pretty critical to obtain precise of enough timing that doesn’t cause any after-flow. I’ll elaborate a little further to explain my thought process here…
First, it seems the reason your trying to use a pulsed valve is to automatically cut-off pressure that would otherwise work against the previously created momentum due to the angular difference, which is a great idea, however…
To obtain obtain precise of enough timing that doesn’t cause any after-flow, you need to have little to no tubing after the output of the valve, because otherwise, say if you had 2 inches of tubing after the valve, then while the pressure is flowing, the moment you cut-off the valve, there is still going to be a decent amount of volume of air left in that excess 2 inches of tubing (which you could calculate if you know the exact volume of the tube and the pressure within it of course), but anyway, it has to go somewhere, so it’s gonna flow right back into your system even after the valve has already been cut-off, which means all of your timing isn’t going to be sharp enough to prevent unwanted negative airflow that would work against the previously created angular momentum, so I think the best case of efficiency in your system would require placing that valve as close as possible to the actual load, and if you want even better efficiency, it could definitely help to also factor in the time it takes to actually close/open the valve, by knowing that along with the travel specs of your 3D printed model, you could account for the delay, and calculate the maximum achievable PWM signal that would still maintain precise timing! By doing this I think you could increase the maximum speed and torque!….
Really hope this makes a difference, that is, if you haven’t already decided to retire from that project. Would love to hear what you think as well! Looking forward to watching all your future videos!
Alternatively to the magnets you could use inset conductive pads on the housing to trigger the valves electronically with the rotor bridging the connection as graphite is highly conductive. They likely will need to be insulated from the rest of the casing as the graphite coating is everywhere. 2 small copper pads with a low friction material to act as the insulator (like teflon) sanded flush with the case would mean the rotor has no extra load unlike the magnets, but still able to act as electronic timing for the valve cycles.
Also with the CO2 capsules - the amount coming through the valves is freezing them, meaning the CO2 wont expand as much, and may even still be liquid. Maybe an expansion chamber would help? Take a look at having some extra wide plumbing before the valve. If that sits above the CO2 capsule and is wide enough it may be enough to double at the expansion chamber. The lower the temp of the CO2 the lower the expansion and thus the lower the pressure it is under, so by the time the CO2 is freezing bits your pressure has dropped from 60bar significantly.
Hi thanks for your videos, but they are a bit advanced for me☺. Could you do a video for beginners, an entry level 3d printed engine?
Not sure whether you could do a 3d printed Engine for beginners, who knows though.
Other BOT account, how badly you want that 3d printer.. 852 likes in what 5 h ... and no-one left a reply... @INTEGZA I hope u are not fooled by this comment... I bet he will try more bot accounts likes just to win that 3d printer ..
He is a scammer..
The bots are removed by youtube and the count drops :)) just buy moree waste the money
Seriously, I think this is the most impressive project you've done yet. Not because the concept is mind-blowing (though it is VERY cool), but because it's both the most strictly scientific, and the most successful project yet. Congratulations, man. You did GREAT! Really, seriously awesome.
This not concept - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wankel_engine
@@i-onedarksnow9288 He didn't say he invented the concept...🤦🏻♂️ he just said its very cool
@@7hristos ohhh shi... engine based on this "concept" for example used in mazda rx8 and many another car
i don't know how well the Teflon will handle it, but i suggest liquid lubrication, a very thin motor oil or similar, injected similarly to how a carburetor atomizes gasoline and inects it together with the air. I also imagine you could take inspiration from the valveless designs of 2-stroke engines and the way they move positive and negative pressures around the piston housing to make the engine run better. Your videos are amazing, much love from Germany!
For the valve, look into how hydraulic valves work. They usually use a low pressure pilot to activate a higher pressure in the main supply.
I love this video and concept I feel you should have magnets on both sides of the rotor to double the pulse of pressure per rotation and even out the weight on the rotor. Another thought is some sort of center gear so the rotor doesn't wiggle around the block of course Friction is a problem here though.
Also maybe some divots in the side of the rotor to catch more air to give it a more forceful rotation kind of how a HEMI piston works.
I would deff put another set of magnets on the opposite side of the rotor for balance and double fire rate. Maybe put a regulator on the input pressure side and then stack up on cylinders for extra run time.
I notice that before the cartridges are completely empty the mechanism will start to slow down, this might be because the condensation from the rapidly cooling components mixes with the graphite to form more of a mud. Try a liquid lubricant like motor oil and see if that improves.
It sounds so good with all three chambers
To improve the design adding magnets to the opposite side so it actuates at both cycles may increase your output and balance the motor. It will increase the fuel draw but improve performance.
As for a video idea. Once you get this motor running efficiently use it to power a propeller for a foam airplane and see how far you can get it to fly.
this would also balance the rotor
@@thatoneweasel exactly
It would be interesting to see multiple rotary/similar engines running in parralel like the 13b/20b
If they were counter rotating they'll be auto balancing
Make a base plate for the sensors and another for the magnets to get rid of imbalance. Connect the air to a compressor that suits the engine needs and use an accumulator to stimulate a turbo changer or supercharger and see how its behaviour is while running it on boost from the accumulator.
Hey man, another great vid. All I would do to make it more efficient would be balancing the rotor and just decreasing the over all size of the engine itself
I'd be really interested to see how the engine would do printed in metal, and maybe cleaned up via CNC. Homemade engines would be a huge boon to lots of people, especially if it could power smaller transportation like a bike or motorcycle.
dremal CNC machine would prob do the job too. Relatively cheap too like $3000
They are already there! Called brushless motors ;)
Ok…., here is what you want to do step by step:
1: get one bigger tank
2: get rid of your valves (might want one fore a „master switch“
3: 3D print or mill a hollow control shaft with a casing. (In said shaft you put three holes in a presise angle so every time one of the holes comes over an „exit hole“ ,leading into one of you three inlets, the rotor turnes.)
4: you have a sick, much less expensive and mostly easy to DIY engine.
Much love: bilder of an all aluminium and steel pnymatic 5 zylinder radial engine😁🇦🇹
I’ve been waiting years for someone to make a better rotary engine, and LP is exactly what we need. Perfect for combining with a hybrid system. Large power-generating gas turbines are by far the most efficient energy system, getting into the 80% efficiency range. Even diesels barely do 40% and those are large 120rpm ship engines. So LP is as close as we can get to a turbine efficiency in an ICE engine. Hopefully a compression ignition model comes out, I’ve thought a diesel rotary could work really well, but they’ve never figured out how to make them work. LP is the answer.
It might be useful to use 3 Hall effect sensors and valves so that only one section of the motor fires at a time, I think this could increase efficiency and make the “fuel source” last longer and still have a performance increase over just having the original single input. Keep doing interesting things man 👍🏽
Use oil, and make a tighter fit on top and on bottom, it would prevent air from leaking in neighbour chambers reducing the efficiency. But it would spit out oil from the holes on the bottom, so it's problem to be resolved or just be ignored, it's not big of a deal, if oil coating is in sweet spot, both thin enought to stop spitting, and thick enough to make a seal. Also, don't forget about balance of the rotor.
Graphite would work instead of oil, right? Also isn't oil sometimes corrosive to certain plastics?
@@jacksonberkowitz4567 Graphite wouldn't stop air leakage. Thin essential oil is corrosive, thick oils are not
@@constantineshaman3336 Ahh ok, thanks, I didn't know the 2nd reason and didn't think of the first reason
to improve on this design, I would recommend plugging the cover that has the ball bearing in it to contain the air more, and put in some exhaust ports(about 1/2 to 3/4 the size of the intake) to make the engine use the air pressure more efficiently. Hopefully that would make it so that you would use less "fuel" and allow the engine to run longer.
That would make it more of a rotary engine and less like a LP engine.
@@joshjlmgproductions3313 no… the only real difference between the two is what spins inside. A Wankel rotary has a triangular piece inside an oval. An LP engine has an oval inside a triangle. They both run on the same principle though.
@@PCFees Ah, okay. Thought the point of a LP engine was to have fuel and/or exhaust running through the rotor.
If you can turn a rotor into a sander and run it with a motor to sand everything evenly, that might help. Also, after sanding you increased gap between everything so the air pressure is less efficient. You'll have to reprint the rotor to match the new size and make sure it fits perfectly once its fully sanded. also, you will want air pressure on the rotor while it is have way from one (shaft) to the next. adding the pressure while it is fully in the shaft that the pressure is coming from causes the least amount of force on it because the air can go both ways. also you would want to use smaller magnets and have them on both sides to trigger a reaction twice as much. you can get 6 bursts of air per full rotation that way. also keep in mind that a lighter rotor means it will spin faster but a heavier rotor will take more air pressure which will result in more engine power.
Also if you could somehow get a consistent measurement of the rotations you could make an electronic valve that opens, and closes rapidly for the same effect as the magnetic censor.
Nice job as always. It looks like your loosing some ground on those open valves being slightly out of timing though. The slowmo helps a lot in seeing that. Might try a vortex bernoulli effect inlet to increase it's speed and angle
the magnet might unbalance the spinning part. But i am SO excited!!! I definitely think you should make it a combo of a steam, jet, and diesel engine to power a mini car or something! Love this!
You could use steam to power the engine. Modify a pressure cooker with a safety release and pressure gauge to be able to safely see the bars. With this you should be able to supply a near constant feed of high or atleast constantly pressured water vapor for tests.
you should race all of the different kinds of engines you have made over the years in a super sick cinematic style video!
My Ideas for you future videos are:
• Make your 3D printed compressed air powered wankel rotary engine water powered (it does only need some minor changes) and try revisiting your 3D printed compressed air powered wankel rotary engine car using the water powered wankel engine and also make a 3Dprinted boat entirely powered by the 3D printed wankel engine powered by water ( which doesn't even need a tank and the water can be taken from the pond and it can produce extra thrust if you use a nozzle in the outlet), use a Tesla turbine as a pump to pump water to the engine. In the car have a tank and redirect the outlet water to the tank itself.
Hence, There is no need for changing the water. Use a Lily impeller and make a boat so that it would be a amazing thing which has 3 amazing inventions by 3 amazing scientists(Wankel Engine - Felix Wankel, Tesla turbine - NIKOLA TESLA, Lilly Impeller - Jay Harman), please try make this one in your style and I am keen to see your video on this.
• Make a aeroplane powered using your aerospike rocket engine and launch it like a rocket and land like a aeroplane. Use your 3D printed solid rocket motor as a booster to launch it(and you can make it like a space shuttle).
• Make a 3D printed rocket engine powered by hydrogen and O2 with your Metal Filament(From The Virtual Foundary), and iam keen to see what fuel ratio you will use. And use this engine to make a 3D printed rocket.
• Make a Ramjet engine powered missile with your Metal Filament(From The Virtual Foundary) and please destroy some tomatoes🍅 with it (tomatoes are Disgusting 🍅).
• Make a 3D printed rocket which utilizes your 3D printed Tesla pulse jet engine which would sound great exept for the thing that your neighbours will be angry at you.
•Make a compilation video of you destroying tomatoes 🍅 all of these years( Tomatoes are Disgusting 🍅 ),(please make this one).
• Make a 3D printed jet aircraft which houses your vortex cooled rocket engine but with little modifications like using your Metal 3D printing Filament(from The Virtual Foundary)instead of ceramic resin changing oxidizer from O2 to compressed air or normal air like conventional jet engines which is a Feast for our eyes and that would be an interesting topic. I think you need to name it the integzajet engine or vortexjet engine.
• Make a 3d printed revolving piston steam engine And make a car which utilizes this.
• Make your Tesla earthquake machine with the Metal 3D printing Filament(from virtual foundary) and make it from metal and try to use it to power a Tesla Coil.
• Make a Thermo Magnetic Motor which was invented by Nikola Tesla.
• Make a pyromagneto Electric generator which was also invented by Nikola Tesla.
• Please make a Tesla Alternating current Induction motor with 3d printed parts.( Metal Filament from The Virtual Foundary)
I would try many of these if i get a 3D printer but i could not afford it . It would very helpfull if i get a 3D printer.
And you have got great 3D modelling skills and you are a professional in it. Please make a tutorial video in 3D modelling mechanical parts in solidworks with parametric equations(I want to learn it please make it). Iam asking this as a request please do it.
Wish you a good luck in your rocket engine making courier and wish you for becoming a rocket engine specialist soon, you and Sir Nikola Tesla are my inspiration don't stop doing sir Tesla related inventions.
I would like to know how long it took you to type this
@@Neon64913 me too
I think this guy wants a 3D printer
I love these little engines so much! If it hasn’t been suggested already, maybe you could try and make the smallest functional engine possible?
add the magnets to both sides, it will help balance it and double the pulses per rotation. Or, use contact circuits to open close the circuit so there is nothing to balance, but I would still add them to both side. To do this you would want to run a contact through the resin to a metal shaft so you could ground the shaft, and then have the positive points be on the casing, so when it rotates to close the circuit on either side, the air valve is actuated.
Here's something I wasn't expecting
Metal casting 3d prints is actually pretty easy. I'd love to see a old 3d rocket become metal casted.
8:50 it's a magnetic reed switch or you can use a hall effect sensor with some transistors and opamps, and can use smaller magnet, and have a balanced rotor
1, to get the RPMs necessary for locomotion like drones or vehicles, you're going to have serious lubrication issues. Graphite and Teflon simply won't cut it. My suggestion is to have a system that introduces oil into the air, that way the pressurized air brings oil with it, lubricating the engine as it runs. This can be done a number of ways.
2, this is essentially a rotary pump, like a vane pump just with the actual rotary piece meeting the walls. All you're doing is swapping the operation. Instead of Mechanical into pressure, you're doing pressure into mechanical. look at the techniques for rotary pump design and function and reverse it essentially, and that will bring you closer.
Video idea: A 3D printed Turboprop engine that can double as tomato obliterator! (because as we all know tomatoes are disgusting)
Remove the magnets and place them on the main shaft for timing then use a Pic processor to control the solenoid. Would be easy with a Arduino controller and also be a good chance to learn the Arduino IDE and further advance your awesome maker skills!
there's a new resin out called Mecha that doesn't wear down into that resin dust or have much friction. and is designed for mechanical gears and pistons. printing some part in that might help.
You can greatly improve your precision during the sanding process. Use a piece of Emergency blanket (or a similar thin foil) and stick it between the walls of the piston and engine. You can feel how tight the gap between the two is by pulling the foil. It should barely, yet evenly, slide. When you find a spot that is too tight, that's where you need to remove material. To get the exact spot, paint one wall with ink. It will leave a mark on the tightest spot of the opposite wall when you turn the engine (by hand).
Painted foil for this purpose exists too.
Keep in mind that the piston needs to remain balanced.
Lubrication should help an already working mechanism, not be the reason it works at all.
I do this kind of work for a living, but not on engines. Good luck :)
The first thing that comes to mind is to stack them--each rotationally offset from the last--and use a crankshaft to connect them. The more you have, the smoother the output should be.
crankshaft, not camshaft! :)
@@williamcampbell9859 That what it *says!* Can't you read? :grin:
(Thanks for the correction.)
@@KeithOlson you actually had me for a second lol! No worries
You would need a big tank for an output oriented application, so anything moving from a car to a plane is impractical. Maybe a boat but it would be huge. You could make a stationary engine and power a generator. Also to balance out the heavy magnets, you could stack more plates together slightly shifted for a smoother power output, bolt a propeller on the shaft and compair the generated thrust to your best jet engine design
I use a read switch about 15 years ago on a two-stroke lawnmower To run on compress air. Good Job bro.
After watching your videos for the last few years I think that it's finally time that you 3D print a moustache. I just can get used to the clean shaven look.
Seriously though that build is super cool. An optical sensor and potentially an Arduino to control the timing will probably give you better results. I don't know if it would work with air but a fuel injector solenoid could possibly work for this. Make sure that your solenoid and hoses are rated for the pressure that the CO2 cartridges put out. Most air solenoids are only good up to about 120psi and over that you are risking an explosive ending.
Hello, a pressure regulator at the inlet should give you more running time, for power you can move the inlet earlier in the chamber, an put a exhaust valvle at the end of the chamber, this way you get 6 injections per rotation as every chamber can power and exhaust twice per turn
kinda like a fourstroke engine with 2 stroke timing, i like it, id really like to see this made into a internal combustion engine
Since you are already using cnc, I would machine the housing and rotor from aluminium, use spring loaded apex seals like in a rotary engine, use chambers in following order:
1. Air suction
2. Combustion
3. Exhaust
Use injector and spark plug and you can control it with piggy back ecu like Ecumaster DET3. You can later try to add a tiny turbo to it 😃
Drive your valves from the output shaft. just like a magneto on a lawnmower/ small motor if you want to keep the electric valve, Or go full mechanical by building inlet valves that act the same as a 2 stroke engine
Idea: Can you try building multiple of these and connecting them together for more power
(You could also try attaching a flywheel to it) (Also: Tomatoes suck)
also if you havent seen what other people suggested: add more magnets
Tomatoes are good
I love Prusa 's 3 d printers ,nice pick 👍
Video propose idea: make a homemade fire extinguisher that instead of co2 cartridges as propeller
this uses some of the engines you have made so far .
Sorry for my english,love from Italy
Love your videos
I was thinking the same thing gg
@@anglerfish61 Integza is a tech guru 😂
Love seeing other people from italy under this videos!
@@mechadraws indeed!
He really needs a 🧯🧯🧯
fine tune the sensor position(s) to get the most thrust per cycle. also, consider smakler magnets. also, add a magnet to both sides of the inner part, for balance in weight and also for more bursts per cycle.