The other source of water intrusion to look out for is water getting into the channels for the electrical wiring is by getting into the mast. It gets in through the channels going to the lighting on the mast, and gets into everything. I have a Catalina 30 with that problem.now, and fixing it is going to be a hradache.
I believe "CORE" is the word you were looking for at the beginning of the video. If you have water going there, it is indeed a big problem. Find where the water getting it. Fix it quickly and keep an eye on it. If you leave it unchecked you can have huge repair costs later. All the best to both of you!
Nice video. I'll add to the rest of the comments regarding the core. Sealing it from the underside will likely make the issue worse, as the water has nowhere to go. Replacing rotten core sections can get pretty involved, especially if the area around the mast needs work and you need to drop the mast. I would figure out the leaks above, add reseal. I like using Butyl tape personally. Best practice is to drill out larger, fill with epoxy, and Re drill the original size, so the epoxy protects the core in case of future leaks around a through-deck fastener. I really recommend a book by Don Casey- "The complete sailboat maintenance manual". He does a great job of illustrating all this and gives best practice advice for stuff like this.
One of the nice things about a Catalina is they still sell most parts to the original boats. Not real cheap but not horrible either. In some cases it is really nice to replace parts with the same new part. Screw holes and everything match!
Good team work guys I love that about you guys and please try to check the leak like everyone advise you guys cause if you don't check that soon is going to cost you alot of money to repair and then mold going to get inside the walls and that is not healthy. We love you guys and we want the best for you.thankyou for you videos I love it.
It will be a good thing to get the leaks into your balsa cored deck sorted out and fixed as soon as you can. It can become a major problem if left unchecked. Beyond anything you do not want the dampness to spread. Good job on the lights! You are learning as you go! Note: I've never owned a boat that didn't have projects!
Catalina 34 owner here. They are notorious for voids in the manufacturing mold. The top side deck will eventually crack around the voids where water has been collecting. As others have said, wait for the summer, drill out bigger holes and fill with long working time epoxy, runny as to fill in everywhere. We did new lighting as well and what a big difference it makes. Good job. Keep it up.
Awesome to commiserate the PNW winter! There is another layer in Catalinas, the interior liner. One can feel a space between the bottom of the deck by feeling along the outer head liner, near the hull-to-deck joint. That's where most wires are run, to hide them, only about 1/4 inch. If a thru-deck fastener is corroded and leaking, it will drip on this and show itself where-ever there is a hole in the liner (ie. overhead lights). I started watching your channel to commiserate what it's like living aboard in a PNW winter ! 👍
Your wiring/light corrosion may also be due to condensation forming on the underside of hull thats exposed to the outsides. I added a link to your last post BTW. Remember Red lights for preserving night vision. Low mounted lights dont dazzle but are good if you drop stuff or need to see where you are moving around at night. In line fuses for any totally new lighting? Might not have been so wise putting new lights under old leaking holes unless you taped over them. But its usually cold or heat that causes the double sided tape to let go.. or dust and grease. No stress.
This past fall I replaced my old lights on my 1981 Hunter 30 with LED lights and what a huge difference it made. My V-berth LED can change color which is nice when you don't need a bright light.
Seal the stanchions with butyl tape. Do not use caulk unless your want t caulk the outside to make it more pretty. If there is rot use an allen key in a drill to get the rotten core out with a small hole in the deck then pour in a THICK epoxy with holes sealed up on the bottom.
@@BlueMoonLife Don't just thank people for their good tips! Actually apply them! Deferring dealing with leaks through a cored deck only leads to major problems down the road. Given you noted that leaks have been a problem for some time now, you're probably in for a big project come summer. Go tap around your deck with a blunt object (screw driver handle works) to find where you need to do core replacements. If it sounds dull when you tap it, it is likely rotten core. Practical Sailor magazine would be good subscription for you guys to get to help you learn the correct ways to do repairs and projects. They have lots of great stuff available online when you subscribe, including years of their publications.
@@That-Dude Removing 5200 is really a bad thing. It doesn't come up unless you use mechanical means...sanding chipping, etc. It is permanent and sets up under water. If caulk were to be used it should be 4200 which would be more kosher to a repair. 5200 should be used below the waterline and 4200 above it. Butyl tape stays flexible and usable they say for 30 to 50 years. The caulks typically do not, especially in marine use. plus Butyl cleans up fast and easy. White Spirits can pull up any residue and typically it can just mostly be peeled off. Not to mention caulk gets goo all over everything. I prefer to butyl a stanchion on the inside portion and then caulk the outside of the lip.
@@allynonderdonk7577 I personally don't mind the hassle of cleaning up the 5200 because if you have to pull the stanchion off due to collision chances are that you're going to be doing glass work to the area as well. The manufacturer I used to work for used 5200 for anything structural weather is was above or below the waterline. I'm not arguing that way is better (although it is my preference), just curious why you chose the butyl tape.
I believe that Gillian does most of the editing, but who ever does do it, I commend you, your voice and fill music are at the same volume level on my play back, unlike most other you tube videos that I watch. Other than seeing the joy in both of you that is one of the things that makes this my favorite channel. Take care, stay safe, and be true to yourselves.
I'm learning myself. Plugging holes on the inside seems the water will just set or move to another location. I've sealed issues I have outside the boat, not inside. Love the video and enjoy boat life. Wish y'all well
Thanks Shawn, we'll definitely keep that in mind! We hope to seal the exterior once we get a window of warm dry weather this summer and hopefully by the time next winter rolls around we'll have a nice dry cabin!
You said your stanchions are leaking. The proper thing to do is wait for sunny weather, like July and August. Remove all stanchions. Over drill all holes where the screws holding the stanchions were. Check to see if the holes are dry and the balsa is not completely compromised. If it is okay, then fill the holes with clear penetrating epoxy. and let the epoxy seep into the balsa core. Let it dry till tacky. Fill the hole remaining with regular epoxy with some filler added. After the epoxy is hard, sand flush with the deck. Drill into the epoxy and remount the stanchions.
You should be using butt connectors with built in shrink tube so that the connections are not subject to contamination and the resulting corrosion. Thanks for the link to the lights. I'll be needing a bunch of those for my C-25 refit. I like the wire loom idea for covering the wiring. I've been wondering how I was going to replace the existing 25 year old wires that are all full of corrosion.
Hey Mark, thanks for the tip :D we're so glad you like the lighting set up! We had the exact same problem when we first re-wired the lights and the simplest way for us at the time was to just bypass the old wiring all together! Good luck with your lighting!!
Water intrusion into the balsa core is a pretty serious issue guy's, as the balsa wood soaks up the water and it will start rotting. I would suggest looking for all possible places water can get into the core (any deck fittings) and seal them asap (butyl tape would be a good choice). You might also want to poke through the screw holes of the stanchions and other deck fittings to see how wet and possibly rotten the core already is.
Happy Valentines’ Day 💞 You make a great team! I have a sister ship hull #1294. Thank you for making these videos. They make the projects I’m always doing feel much lighter and less overwhelming. I sail solo most of the time and have the A4. This July will be year 10! Thanks again for the vids. They are helping me keepin’ on going sailing. ❤️⛵️❤️🧚🏼♂️Gertrude S/V Faerie Tale🧜🏼♀️ C30 1979.
If a balsa core in fiberglass gets wet, it rots particularly if the moisture in question is fresh water. When balsa core rots it acquires a consistency similar to wet paper mache and no longer contributes any strength to the fiberglass which is then also substantially weaker.
Balsa core in the deck - pretty common practice in boats of that vintage. Airex or some other synthetic foam core is better because it doesn't decompose, but a lot more expensive.
Gillian, you have a very "electrifying" personality, But seriously great team work on the light project. One thing I do to help with any moisture if the Corsair or the Dana 24 are going to be not used for awhile and kept in the water is to run some small dehumidifiers, this really helps prevent any mold or mildew issues. It might dry up some of the issues your having with the moisture entering your boat. Our offer still stands on the Dana 24, if your interested, it's yours for the taking.....
Ahoy Gillian and Jonas:For many years I've been using an excellent 2 part polyurethane adhesive/sealant for such problems that you are experiencing in this video.This product is "Silverthane SA-2100 similar to Sikaflex or 3M 5200 but without the waste and has a long shelf life too. It comes in 2 tubes,part A and part B ,60ml each and is mixed 1:1 in the desired amount.It can be purchased at "Industrial Plastics and Paints,776 Cloverdale in Victoria.The cost was about 20 dollars the Iast time I purchased about 2 years ago.I'm sure you will find many uses for this stuff as I have. Cheerz: Gerry
I'd be concerned about fire caused by water getting into those lights. Maybe put temporary sealant or wax around the stantions until the weather improves enough to do the work.
@@BlueMoonLife Sweet I made you guys smile. PS: when Jonas in the video went to go get the food I thought I saw for a brief moment you checking out his tush as he was walking up the stairs. And I promise that definitely is the last dead joke
hey Guys, let me know when your planning on tackling the stanchions and I will come over and help. I have a few tools that might help. your video looks like you have a liner inside your cabin top, this means most likely you have condensation on the top of the liner. your cabin top is probably solid fiberglass at the areas of the stanchions. not the end of the world. it is a project but not a really terrible one...
Always great to see your vids. As discussed by a few of the others. You need to get ontop of the moisture problem seriously fast. You have a great boat that will last years. But moisture in your structure. Yikes folks. On your next lift out . Be sure to do an advanced percussion check all over. Enjoy . Love your posative approach to everything.
When I repair stanchions and chain plates I remove the core and pack it solid with glass and resin. This is so much stronger and small the core preventing future rot. As all screws should be re caulked every Fer years. So never put 5200 on them. Don't use Plummer/Butyl Tape as it is ot ment for moving or mechanical parts. Although it can work as a emergency leak stopper for areas like leaks coming from the bung holes or shaft when applying from the out side. For a massive hole you can even pull a sail under the vessel from starboard to Port and slow water entry. Also DC current in low volts like 12 and 24 will not hurt you, AC is on the other hand deadly. Be safe, and love you guys mean it. Also I have a 25.5 sailboat I am giving away. And if that goes well I will also do a giveaway for my own Catalina 30. Yep I am going to down size my fleet and my dreams.
At least ya didn't get a nasty shock. Just randomly your boat is small enough have you guys considered the thought of replacing your diesel engine with a fully electric engine? Would probably save you loads of cash in fuel costs.
haha that is a cool idea! Thankfully our diesel engine has been very good to us and uses very little fuel, all things considered! Perhaps on a future boat!
Making how-to videos when you have not done basic research on how-to to do the project is really one of the major downfalls of UA-cam and the internet in general. For anyone using this video to guide them on how to install lights, make sure you don't skip shrink wrapping the butt connectors as these guys did, otherwise you will eventually have corrosion, which can lead to failures, or worse, fires. More importantly, if you have leaks in your boat, fix them! My first boat was a Catalina, and every single stanchion had to be rebedded when I bought it. Basically all these moderate to low-end production boats have this problem due to the builders skimping on backing plates. All it takes is someone to pull or lean on the stanchion, and the seal can be broken. You guys make videos with good production value, but please please stop giving advice if you don't fully understand the subject you are preaching. I stopped regularly watching your channel after the horrifying stuffing box episode where you adjusted it with a pipe wrench (wrong tool!) and disregarded doing something about the clearly compromised rubber around your prop shaft that is keeping your boat from sinking. Passing on bad advice will lead to problem for other others!
I enjoy very much watching you both but I have To say Jonas has to be one of the most laziest Slowest man I have ever seen do anything. I don’t understand that.if your other half was not Around I think you would be going down with The ship the van and pretty much anything you Would have to do by yourself. Sorry about that but you really need to bring The level up a bit. Now I will still watch and support because Your content is good.
your decks are built with a slite angle .... higher where it meets the cabin walls then at the toe rail ......the lights you replaced are on the higher side of the deck ..... that means only one thing ..... your core is saturated !!!!!!! which means bad bad news .......deck to hull joint is compromised and even worst chain plates are too .........SELL BOAT ...... and pray you find a buyer ......fixing your problem will cost more then the boat is worth .....sorry to give you the bad news
The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/bluemoonlife02221
The other source of water intrusion to look out for is water getting into the channels for the electrical wiring is by getting into the mast. It gets in through the channels going to the lighting on the mast, and gets into everything. I have a Catalina 30 with that problem.now, and fixing it is going to be a hradache.
I believe "CORE" is the word you were looking for at the beginning of the video. If you have water going there, it is indeed a big problem. Find where the water getting it. Fix it quickly and keep an eye on it. If you leave it unchecked you can have huge repair costs later. All the best to both of you!
Nice video. I'll add to the rest of the comments regarding the core. Sealing it from the underside will likely make the issue worse, as the water has nowhere to go.
Replacing rotten core sections can get pretty involved, especially if the area around the mast needs work and you need to drop the mast.
I would figure out the leaks above, add reseal. I like using Butyl tape personally. Best practice is to drill out larger, fill with epoxy, and Re drill the original size, so the epoxy protects the core in case of future leaks around a through-deck fastener.
I really recommend a book by Don Casey- "The complete sailboat maintenance manual". He does a great job of illustrating all this and gives best practice advice for stuff like this.
Love that hand drawing of the leaks. One of you has some artistic flair.
We're glad you liked it :D
One of the nice things about a Catalina is they still sell most parts to the original boats. Not real cheap but not horrible
either. In some cases it is really nice to replace parts with the same new part. Screw holes and everything match!
Good team work guys I love that about you guys and please try to check the leak like everyone advise you guys cause if you don't check that soon is going to cost you alot of money to repair and then mold going to get inside the walls and that is not healthy. We love you guys and we want the best for you.thankyou for you videos I love it.
It will be a good thing to get the leaks into your balsa cored deck sorted out and fixed as soon as you can. It can become a major problem if left unchecked. Beyond anything you do not want the dampness to spread.
Good job on the lights! You are learning as you go! Note: I've never owned a boat that didn't have projects!
Catalina 34 owner here. They are notorious for voids in the manufacturing mold. The top side deck will eventually crack around the voids where water has been collecting. As others have said, wait for the summer, drill out bigger holes and fill with long working time epoxy, runny as to fill in everywhere. We did new lighting as well and what a big difference it makes. Good job. Keep it up.
Awesome to commiserate the PNW winter! There is another layer in Catalinas, the interior liner. One can feel a space between the bottom of the deck by feeling along the outer head liner, near the hull-to-deck joint. That's where most wires are run, to hide them, only about 1/4 inch. If a thru-deck fastener is corroded and leaking, it will drip on this and show itself where-ever there is a hole in the liner (ie. overhead lights). I started watching your channel to commiserate what it's like living aboard in a PNW winter ! 👍
Actually, the fastener might not be corroded, just the sealant needs replacing (most of the time ).
Noodle Box - always awesome!
Man, great looking haircut!!!! Love your videos! (And new lights...!)
Thank you!!
I saw my favorite Canadian invention..... a Picquic 🪛 screwdriver! 🇨🇦
Great job! Congratulations! Thanks for sharing! 👍⛵️
Cool video ! I also chose the bright white lights for my RV . Good job !
Your wiring/light corrosion may also be due to condensation forming on the underside of hull thats exposed to the outsides.
I added a link to your last post BTW. Remember Red lights for preserving night vision.
Low mounted lights dont dazzle
but are good if you drop stuff or need to see where you are moving around at night.
In line fuses for any totally new lighting?
Might not have been so wise putting new lights under old leaking holes unless you taped over them. But its usually cold or heat that causes the double sided tape to let go.. or dust and grease. No stress.
This past fall I replaced my old lights on my 1981 Hunter 30 with LED lights and what a huge difference it made. My V-berth LED can change color which is nice when you don't need a bright light.
We replaced all our lighting on our Catalina LED what a hugh difference Anchor light especially great to see another video 👍❤️😎
Great job ! Well done !!
HEAT shrinking tubes on the electrical connections help seal the wires from moisture. Not a lot of time is added to the repair.
Seal the stanchions with butyl tape. Do not use caulk unless your want t caulk the outside to make it more pretty. If there is rot use an allen key in a drill to get the rotten core out with a small hole in the deck then pour in a THICK epoxy with holes sealed up on the bottom.
Thanks for the tips Allyn!
@@BlueMoonLife Don't just thank people for their good tips! Actually apply them! Deferring dealing with leaks through a cored deck only leads to major problems down the road. Given you noted that leaks have been a problem for some time now, you're probably in for a big project come summer. Go tap around your deck with a blunt object (screw driver handle works) to find where you need to do core replacements. If it sounds dull when you tap it, it is likely rotten core. Practical Sailor magazine would be good subscription for you guys to get to help you learn the correct ways to do repairs and projects. They have lots of great stuff available online when you subscribe, including years of their publications.
Why would you choose butyl tape over 5200?
@@That-Dude Removing 5200 is really a bad thing. It doesn't come up unless you use mechanical means...sanding chipping, etc. It is permanent and sets up under water. If caulk were to be used it should be 4200 which would be more kosher to a repair. 5200 should be used below the waterline and 4200 above it. Butyl tape stays flexible and usable they say for 30 to 50 years. The caulks typically do not, especially in marine use. plus Butyl cleans up fast and easy. White Spirits can pull up any residue and typically it can just mostly be peeled off. Not to mention caulk gets goo all over everything. I prefer to butyl a stanchion on the inside portion and then caulk the outside of the lip.
@@allynonderdonk7577 I personally don't mind the hassle of cleaning up the 5200 because if you have to pull the stanchion off due to collision chances are that you're going to be doing glass work to the area as well. The manufacturer I used to work for used 5200 for anything structural weather is was above or below the waterline. I'm not arguing that way is better (although it is my preference), just curious why you chose the butyl tape.
I believe that Gillian does most of the editing, but who ever does do it, I commend you, your voice and fill music are at the same volume level on my play back, unlike most other you tube videos that I watch. Other than seeing the joy in both of you that is one of the things that makes this my favorite channel. Take care, stay safe, and be true to yourselves.
I'm learning myself. Plugging holes on the inside seems the water will just set or move to another location. I've sealed issues I have outside the boat, not inside. Love the video and enjoy boat life. Wish y'all well
Thanks Shawn, we'll definitely keep that in mind! We hope to seal the exterior once we get a window of warm dry weather this summer and hopefully by the time next winter rolls around we'll have a nice dry cabin!
You said your stanchions are leaking. The proper thing to do is wait for sunny weather, like July and August. Remove all stanchions. Over drill all holes where the screws holding the stanchions were. Check to see if the holes are dry and the balsa is not completely compromised. If it is okay, then fill the holes with clear penetrating epoxy. and let the epoxy seep into the balsa core. Let it dry till tacky. Fill the hole remaining with regular epoxy with some filler added. After the epoxy is hard, sand flush with the deck. Drill into the epoxy and remount the stanchions.
You should be using butt connectors with built in shrink tube so that the connections are not subject to contamination and the resulting corrosion. Thanks for the link to the lights. I'll be needing a bunch of those for my C-25 refit. I like the wire loom idea for covering the wiring. I've been wondering how I was going to replace the existing 25 year old wires that are all full of corrosion.
Hey Mark, thanks for the tip :D we're so glad you like the lighting set up! We had the exact same problem when we first re-wired the lights and the simplest way for us at the time was to just bypass the old wiring all together! Good luck with your lighting!!
Water intrusion into the balsa core is a pretty serious issue guy's, as the balsa wood soaks up the water and it will start rotting. I would suggest looking for all possible places water can get into the core (any deck fittings) and seal them asap (butyl tape would be a good choice). You might also want to poke through the screw holes of the stanchions and other deck fittings to see how wet and possibly rotten the core already is.
Second that. This problem won't go away on it's own. It's serious and needs to be looked at ASAP, weather permitting.
Thank you for sharing..
Happy Valentines’ Day 💞 You make a great team! I have a sister ship hull #1294. Thank you for making these videos. They make the projects I’m always doing feel much lighter and less overwhelming. I sail solo most of the time and have the A4. This July will be year 10! Thanks again for the vids. They are helping me keepin’ on going sailing. ❤️⛵️❤️🧚🏼♂️Gertrude S/V Faerie Tale🧜🏼♀️ C30 1979.
I would heat shrink the connections. I put heat shrink on everything I did.It protects in from moisture.The wire should be tinned to.
If a balsa core in fiberglass gets wet, it rots particularly if the moisture in question is fresh water.
When balsa core rots it acquires a consistency similar to wet paper mache and no longer contributes any strength to the fiberglass which is then also substantially weaker.
Balsa core in the deck - pretty common practice in boats of that vintage. Airex or some other synthetic foam core is better because it doesn't decompose, but a lot more expensive.
You should have had a Bud LIGHT with that Chinese food heheheh
Gillian, you have a very "electrifying" personality, But seriously great team work on the light project. One thing I do to help with any moisture if the Corsair or the Dana 24 are going to be not used for awhile and kept in the water is to run some small dehumidifiers, this really helps prevent any mold or mildew issues. It might dry up some of the issues your having with the moisture entering your boat. Our offer still stands on the Dana 24, if your interested, it's yours for the taking.....
Love you guys, your videos are actually great and I am sure that you will just continue to improve with time. 🥰⛵️⛵️⛵️👍
Lighting makes such a difference. I relite my RV a couple years ago with all LED and it is so bright when I need it.
Ahoy Gillian and Jonas:For many years I've been using an excellent 2 part polyurethane adhesive/sealant for such problems that you are experiencing in this video.This product is "Silverthane SA-2100 similar to Sikaflex or 3M 5200 but without the waste and has a long shelf life too. It comes in 2 tubes,part A and part B ,60ml each and is mixed 1:1 in the desired amount.It can be purchased at "Industrial Plastics and Paints,776 Cloverdale in Victoria.The cost was about 20 dollars the Iast time I purchased about 2 years ago.I'm sure you will find many uses for this stuff as I have.
Cheerz: Gerry
I'd be concerned about fire caused by water getting into those lights. Maybe put temporary sealant or wax around the stantions until the weather improves enough to do the work.
This was one of the “most electrifying “videos I’ve ever seen. That includes my dad joke for the day
haha you got a chuckle out of us!!
@@BlueMoonLife Sweet I made you guys smile.
PS: when Jonas in the video went to go get the food I thought I saw for a brief moment you checking out his tush as he was walking up the stairs. And I promise that definitely is the last dead joke
hey Guys, let me know when your planning on tackling the stanchions and I will come over and help. I have a few tools that might help.
your video looks like you have a liner inside your cabin top, this means most likely you have condensation on the top of the liner. your cabin top is probably solid fiberglass at the areas of the stanchions. not the end of the world.
it is a project but not a really terrible one...
use denatured alcohol to clean surfaces.
Always great to see your vids. As discussed by a few of the others. You need to get ontop of the moisture problem seriously fast. You have a great boat that will last years. But moisture in your structure. Yikes folks. On your next lift out . Be sure to do an advanced percussion check all over. Enjoy . Love your posative approach to everything.
Please show how you hid the wires.
You've discovered the curse of aging balsa core construction
Yes having good lighting makes seeing much easier. I wonder if they have mini dimmer switch's for the exact lighting you like.
Are you referring to the core? Those can be Balsa, plywood, foam. You might be lucky and it’s only a small area that is water damaged.
What is the new job? These are my favorite videos of yours, I love the confidence that you have when doing these types of repairs. thanks
Thanks for the comment Susan! The new job is similar to last year, I'm working in a communications department for the Provincial Government of BC!
When I repair stanchions and chain plates I remove the core and pack it solid with glass and resin. This is so much stronger and small the core preventing future rot. As all screws should be re caulked every Fer years. So never put 5200 on them. Don't use Plummer/Butyl Tape as it is ot ment for moving or mechanical parts. Although it can work as a emergency leak stopper for areas like leaks coming from the bung holes or shaft when applying from the out side. For a massive hole you can even pull a sail under the vessel from starboard to Port and slow water entry. Also DC current in low volts like 12 and 24 will not hurt you, AC is on the other hand deadly. Be safe, and love you guys mean it.
Also I have a 25.5 sailboat I am giving away. And if that goes well I will also do a giveaway for my own Catalina 30. Yep I am going to down size my fleet and my dreams.
The first 1,000 people who use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/bluemoonlife02221
re wiring for lights, one hint: heat shrink!
Electrolysis??
what's the link for the lights?
Hey John, here it is: amzn.to/33hcDkT
At least ya didn't get a nasty shock. Just randomly your boat is small enough have you guys considered the thought of replacing your diesel engine with a fully electric engine? Would probably save you loads of cash in fuel costs.
haha that is a cool idea! Thankfully our diesel engine has been very good to us and uses very little fuel, all things considered! Perhaps on a future boat!
I now want noodles xD
haha yes we always want noodles!!
1st fix the water logged leaking deck
Making how-to videos when you have not done basic research on how-to to do the project is really one of the major downfalls of UA-cam and the internet in general.
For anyone using this video to guide them on how to install lights, make sure you don't skip shrink wrapping the butt connectors as these guys did, otherwise you will eventually have corrosion, which can lead to failures, or worse, fires. More importantly, if you have leaks in your boat, fix them! My first boat was a Catalina, and every single stanchion had to be rebedded when I bought it. Basically all these moderate to low-end production boats have this problem due to the builders skimping on backing plates. All it takes is someone to pull or lean on the stanchion, and the seal can be broken.
You guys make videos with good production value, but please please stop giving advice if you don't fully understand the subject you are preaching. I stopped regularly watching your channel after the horrifying stuffing box episode where you adjusted it with a pipe wrench (wrong tool!) and disregarded doing something about the clearly compromised rubber around your prop shaft that is keeping your boat from sinking. Passing on bad advice will lead to problem for other others!
I enjoy very much watching you both but I have
To say Jonas has to be one of the most laziest
Slowest man I have ever seen do anything.
I don’t understand that.if your other half was not
Around I think you would be going down with
The ship the van and pretty much anything you
Would have to do by yourself.
Sorry about that but you really need to bring
The level up a bit.
Now I will still watch and support because
Your content is good.
your decks are built with a slite angle .... higher where it meets the cabin walls then at the toe rail ......the lights you replaced are on the higher side of the deck ..... that means only one thing ..... your core is saturated !!!!!!! which means bad bad news .......deck to hull joint is compromised and even worst chain plates are too .........SELL BOAT ...... and pray you find a buyer ......fixing your problem will cost more then the boat is worth .....sorry to give you the bad news
You should go check out Boat Works Today, and Sail Life. They are great how-to channels.