Its in editing purgatory currently 😅 I got really busy after getting Kris' truck done and I'm getting back to my backlog of videos right now! Expect to see a couple more soon and then the next part not far behind :)
👍👍good to know on the early 24v cam sensor...cause the early one's count the dimple in the back of the gear and the late ones have the tone wheel on the inner radius ,but anyway,I like the way u roll man.. thanks for another video.. Have a good week 👊
Makes ya wonder why the early engines used both the crank sensor and cam sensor on a gear driven engine lol dodge figured er out and just did cam in 00-02 tho
I am really enjoying this video series. I do have a couple questions. I have a 2000 VP engine in my truck an a 12v on my engine stand. I want to put the p-pump on the 24v. Would I have everything I need to do the swap other than the fuel lines?I use this truck to tow a camper and need it to be dependable. Any concerns with the fuel lines cracking? I know a few years back I read where that could be an issue. Last thing should I use the 12v cam gear from sense I have it. Thanks and looking forward to the rest of the videos.
Glad you enjoy it! For your question, the injection lines are the main thing, you’ll also have to T the stock return line into the 24v return line T, and should you decide to run the mechanical lift pump you’ll need to run the 12v cam otherwise you’ll need a electric fuel pump that puts out 30-55psi For the cam gear that’s dependent on if it’s going into a 24v truck and you want to use those electronics, or if it’s a universal swap and it’ll be using aftermarket gauges. If it’s using 12v wiring then you need the 12v balancer, and 12v sensors
I could possibly look at it, or if you want it rebuilt then there’s camrose diesel injection, vimy diesel, GCL diesel, and maybe RPS diesel. That’s all off the top of my head
@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge I figured it was for that. Seems as utilizing the alternator could work easier. No machining/grinding. But i don't know if the pickup is the same frequency.
It’s “recommended” but not always necessary, lots of people drop in a cam on stock tappets without any issues. I’ve done probably 4 cam installs now on stock tappets, and had multiple friends do the same without issue.
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledgereally? Okay that’s good to know I got a stage 3 colt cam for my ppump 24v build and I’m leaving the motor in the truck and was not looking forward to using fishing line to feed every tappet and stuff back through the cam opening I’m just gonna use the factory tappets then Thank you so much looking forward to the rest of the series
Only if necessary but most engines will only have 1 at the front?? I think the CRs later got one at the rear as well I’ve seen a lot of cam bearings from tearing down engines and they’ve all looked to be in great shape
Happy to contribute to the community and put more information out there! Thanks for the kind words, makes it all worth it to get the positive feedback :)
I didn’t think of that! Good idea. I believe when I looked at this gearcase the dowel hole had a good taper to it. It also seemed to not be a problem in the 24v’s so maybe it was a machining tolerance thing they later cleared up
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge the 44 case has a ridge on the gear side ,so the pin can't fall out...least on all the ones that I've seen...but anyway 👍👍👊
I put bran new main seals on my 01 24v before I put it in my 68 F250 and they both leak... Thats just my luck. I hoping to P Pump my 24v some time soon.
@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge no, I didn't know about that until I watched this video. Both were cummins seals though. I will look into that style now that I know about them
Great series! Where is P Pump 24 Valve Cummins Swap PART 3: Assembly (2/2)? Thanks!
Its in editing purgatory currently 😅 I got really busy after getting Kris' truck done and I'm getting back to my backlog of videos right now! Expect to see a couple more soon and then the next part not far behind :)
Awesome thanks!
Thanks for the informational video Eric, nice frikin timing cover !👍 👌
Ain’t it pretty! Ugh, I want one now on my rig haha!
👍👍good to know on the early 24v cam sensor...cause the early one's count the dimple in the back of the gear and the late ones have the tone wheel on the inner radius ,but anyway,I like the way u roll man.. thanks for another video.. Have a good week 👊
Makes ya wonder why the early engines used both the crank sensor and cam sensor on a gear driven engine lol dodge figured er out and just did cam in 00-02 tho
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge yeah,no shit...wonder why🤔.. don't matter anyway when u Ditch the 44 like you're doing 🤣🤣👍
That Loctite sets up fairly quick. Did you have to heat the damper screws that were left loose?
Maybe it’s the loctite that I have but it’s always been an overnight thing for it to set up, so I’ve never had any issues!
I am really enjoying this video series. I do have a couple questions. I have a 2000 VP engine in my truck an a 12v on my engine stand. I want to put the p-pump on the 24v. Would I have everything I need to do the swap other than the fuel lines?I use this truck to tow a camper and need it to be dependable. Any concerns with the fuel lines cracking? I know a few years back I read where that could be an issue. Last thing should I use the 12v cam gear from sense I have it. Thanks and looking forward to the rest of the videos.
Glad you enjoy it! For your question, the injection lines are the main thing, you’ll also have to T the stock return line into the 24v return line T, and should you decide to run the mechanical lift pump you’ll need to run the 12v cam otherwise you’ll need a electric fuel pump that puts out 30-55psi
For the cam gear that’s dependent on if it’s going into a 24v truck and you want to use those electronics, or if it’s a universal swap and it’ll be using aftermarket gauges. If it’s using 12v wiring then you need the 12v balancer, and 12v sensors
Thanks
Hi awesome video, where should I send my Ppump to get check out ? " im in Alberta" thx
I could possibly look at it, or if you want it rebuilt then there’s camrose diesel injection, vimy diesel, GCL diesel, and maybe RPS diesel. That’s all off the top of my head
I really liked the video, good job.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the feedback :)
Why do you need an electronic cam sensor on a mechanically injected motor? Did i miss that?
It’s inorder to have the tachometer read on the 2nd Gen dash, for any other application it isn’t required
@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge
I figured it was for that. Seems as utilizing the alternator could work easier. No machining/grinding. But i don't know if the pickup is the same frequency.
Just out of curiosity, are you not supposed to put new tappets when installing a new cam?
It’s “recommended” but not always necessary, lots of people drop in a cam on stock tappets without any issues. I’ve done probably 4 cam installs now on stock tappets, and had multiple friends do the same without issue.
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledgereally? Okay that’s good to know
I got a stage 3 colt cam for my ppump 24v build and I’m leaving the motor in the truck and was not looking forward to using fishing line to feed every tappet and stuff back through the cam opening
I’m just gonna use the factory tappets then
Thank you so much looking forward to the rest of the series
Did you ever replace your cam bushings ?
Only if necessary but most engines will only have 1 at the front?? I think the CRs later got one at the rear as well
I’ve seen a lot of cam bearings from tearing down engines and they’ve all looked to be in great shape
i do like the information you give out its like youre a teacher you should teach this
Happy to contribute to the community and put more information out there! Thanks for the kind words, makes it all worth it to get the positive feedback :)
Note. Wear gloves when you’re installing the cam because the edges are sharp. Unless you’re a trained professional like Eric
These mittens are hardened from years of cutting them open on everything else on these dang engines 🤘
You missed at least in the video mentioning the KDP/fix. I surmise anyone doing this already knows, but ya never know.
I didn’t think of that! Good idea. I believe when I looked at this gearcase the dowel hole had a good taper to it. It also seemed to not be a problem in the 24v’s so maybe it was a machining tolerance thing they later cleared up
@@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge the 44 case has a ridge on the gear side ,so the pin can't fall out...least on all the ones that I've seen...but anyway 👍👍👊
You swapped that case... nevermind 🤣🤣
@@elroyelblander6277 Pretty sure it doesn’t have a 44 case anymore as it’s now got an old 12v case. Just read your second comment NVM.. 😂
@@MechanicalMafioso 👍👍👊🤘
I put bran new main seals on my 01 24v before I put it in my 68 F250 and they both leak... Thats just my luck. I hoping to P Pump my 24v some time soon.
Did you do a wear sleeve main seal? That’s the only thing I use now!
@Hazardous-Hotrod-Knowledge no, I didn't know about that until I watched this video. Both were cummins seals though. I will look into that style now that I know about them