You were talking about the nature of a high lift jack. The nature of a high lift jack is that they will last 50 years just to get the right oppurtunity to kill you. Little known fact is that the high lift was created first. An hour later cussing was invented. Seriously, I am always amazed at the creativity of people on here and you sir are no exception. Great video!
I have been welding/fabricating for a living for 6 ish years... and I still learn something every time you share one of these types of videos with us. Nice work!
I'm in the Okanagan Valley in BC. We put bolts through the bases of our Jacks. Gription on logs, snow, and ice. Also, bolts were a life saver when buddy rolled his truck 5 times, crushed the cab flat with the hood and box, and caught on fire. Bolts grabbed the body of the truck and I was able to jack the door open and drag him out.
Following your comment about the jack not being safe and crawling under a vehicle. I used to use my spare as a jack stand, but also carried a bow saw to cut smaller pieces from downed trees as shims/dunnage between the frame and tire. Be safe, be creative!
You just keep doing what your doing. My dad had a scout II back in 76/77 with a real hemi, locker, limited slip and 1/4" skids and everyone thought that was crazy on 33" tires. Ignore the haters. You rock.
I just picked up a $40 jack off fb market and your video just pushed me deep into the weeds of what I want to modify to my jeep. Never thought of any of this. I just bought a house with a garage and don't have any of these types tools yet either. You made this look like a satisfying hobby.
The attachment you made to lift the rim by is great for yanking posts out of the ground. The flat face rests against the post, wrap a chain around the base of the post and attach the chain to the hole in the bottom of the attachment.
Keep up the great video's Nate . Loved your ideas on this one . I received my Hi Lift jack about four years ago for free. A neighbor of mine at the time worked for the Government and the would use tools like my jack a couple of times ,then throw them away in a pit . My neighbor took four of them at that time and gave me one . Score !! All I did was tare it down and repainted it . Works every time I need to use it .
Like the way you represented the different levels of fabrication.You give respect to all levels of knowledge and we are always learning to build a better version of everything to solve problems that present itself. Thank you for allowing us to learn a little more.
No problem! I was a journeyman plumber for along time and training apprentices was my job. I think that helped keep people's skill levels in perspective and I want newer fabricators to feel represented as well 👍
A good way to keep Hi-Lift from slipping is slid jack nose in shackle to lift the corner of vehicle. I've been able to lift rear end of Jeep up that way a few times (0-4 in lifted Jeep) not so much on a lift with lots of lift and flex. AKA not my XJ. I'm thinking about fabbing up a few of them now again. . On your u-joint base you might want to add a few teeth to bite in and not slip, I added 2 short leaf springs on base for one of my Hi-Lift jacks spreads load and don't slip even on pavement 😉
Tire thoughts. Use bias ply tires. No steel wires to poke you. To attach the tread use contact cement and either screws or rivets. Another idea is to ise webbing strap. Just grind some relief so the strap sits below the face of the tread. I saw a nifty trash compactor that was made from a high lift jack.
For Land Rovers (and I mean real Landies Series and Defenders, not Range Rovers and Discovery's!), we use box section sills and bumpers with holes in them to insert a long tube attached to the lifting nose of the Hi-Lift. That keeps the jack from being able to slip off the vehicle as well as keeping it a little farther away from the truck, protecting your bodywork from the jack. I like the tilting base with rubber tire footing. But they must weigh a tonne! Well done! Just as an extra thought, I keep a 12-tonne air over hydraulic bottle jack with me. Hook it up to my onboard ARB compressor and it will lift the whole thing off the ground like it's a marshmallow. ;-) Heavy, yes! Worth it not having to get under the truck to jack with the little bar? Absolutely!!!
Ive used the Hi Lift many times offroad and recommend the 60" vs the 48" because you'll need the extra travel with a flexy suspension. Also, I've had the handle try to take my head off when your hand slips off the handle letting the vehicle down.. I love the accessories that you put together!!
Something the Land Rover crowd does with HiLift jacks is having a tube mounted out on your extension. That tube then acts as a male spigot that goes into a female tube in the rock sliders/steps/bumpers. That way the jack CANNOT slip off. The whole rig can tilt left or right but it won't fall off the jack itself. You can also use your strap (or buy one from HiLift) and use both hooks to attach to your rim. That spreads the load a little across the rim and is a little more stable. Dang useful to lift the whole rim/tire instead of the chassis, especially with coil springs, to get rocks, wood, etc., under a tire to get unstuck. Sometimes all you need is a few inches to get the skidplate of the truck off whatever it's highsided on. Cheers!
Interesting builds... looks good. I do like the top winching hook mount/foot. A different approach to the "jackmate" tire lifter device... I use just an axle strap tiedown with 2 lifting hooks, with clevis's that fits the D-ring of the strap. Lift the tongue of the jack over the top of the tire, with the strap hooks onto a rim hole or spoke, lift the strap with the jack tongue ontop of the tire. It does help to keep the jack close to the wheel, to minimize tilting and kick out. I use this and couple with a base plate and stabilizer wires, for my street truck. it works well. I only say this, as sometime you might have just about everything, but need to save a bit of weight or space.
Hey Nate them ground anchors are very handy we use them primarily in winch comps in Australia we have events that have a compulsory ground anchor winch section There very handy in the desert when there are no trees around
Loved the video. Great ideas to consider for my hi lift jack. One thing I thought of a long time ago was to make a a base that could slide on. Your two bases there that I loved the had to be bolted on. Make a permanent base that is small. Then have different bases that could slide onto that permanent base. This way if you are playing in mud, sand or snow you can just slide on a large base when you get stuck. If you go rock crawling and get stuck, just slide on the universal base.
So I have a little experience with the U-joint base and sliding your jeep off rocks. The biggest concern is making sure when pushing the vehicle to one side or the other, you neet to make sure your vehicle is jacked up as high as possible on the jack so that you dont sent the top of your jack right into one of your panels as it pivots. That, or use the shortest hi-lift as possible to accomplish the mission.
I found an old farm jack (what an old boss called it and old habits die hard), someone had modified the top, hook and base to be interchangeable using threaded pipe and couplers. I like your project much better, but still I found many more uses for farm jacks since I found this one. Sweet garage
Just remember when buying a highlift jack skip the cheap/inexpensive jack. These units are very dangerous when lifting heavy rigs and cheap jack break and make it even more dangerous. Stay away from Princess auto (Canada) Harbour Freight (USA)
Love how well put together your videos are Nate. I know you say you love editing. Would be awesome to see a video on all the behind the scenes stuff! Keep up the grind man!
Awesome video with cool ideas. I have an attachment I bought that hooks into the rim and I use it frequently to lift a corner and fill a hole I'm stuck in and/or get a traction board under that wheel. Less work than trying to lift that whole side up, and less down force on the jack base which can be significant in muddy conditions as the jack base doesn't sink as badly. Also fwiw I've had good luck cutting old tires up with tin snips. And check out pliobond (sp?) as an adhesive. I've used it on rubber to metal, rubber to plastic, and plastic to plastic with good results.
I was really into fabrication and 4X4s and turned out some killer projects but somehow I’ve become old and now drive a stock Tacoma that I’m not thrilled with. I use to attend an 4X4 event in Naches WA with a very built Ranger. I built a Scout 80 with Dana 44s and a Chev V6 earlier. I wish I could have saved all my old projects but I’d need a wear house to keep them in. Keep up the good work.
Hi lifts have their uses but don't leave that bottle jack at home! The lowly bottle jack is a life saver in many situations, changing tires on rigs with flexy suspensions is way easier when you jack the axle. Sometimes it's easier and faster to jack up an axle and chuck a couple of rocks under a tire than any other option to get you over and obstacle. Broken motor mount? try using a hi lift to raise the engine, block it up and chain it down. I can't even remember half the applications I've seen.
I love watching these kind of builds/upgrades , especially on the high lift jacks, that are already like a Swiss army knifes of jacks ( basically a massive multi tool ) nice work 👍🍻
I made a replacement rubber pad for my floor jack from a piece of horse stall matt. I tried to cut it just right to snap in like the factory one, but it just wouldn't stay in. I smothered it with the classic Shoe Goo(available in shoe departments in big box stores) and after plenty of used against uneven surfaces(k-bar, diff, axle, shock shackle etc) it hasn't even started to peel off... This glue is amazingly strong/durable and has many uses besides shoe repair!
It was good that you talked about safety for sure....Interesting back in the day they were called bummer jacks and came with the car...now the new name is Hi Lift....they were all as dangerous as they still are today. You made the jack better than it is..good job Nate! The Extenda Jack.
Bumper Jack's that used to come with cars are much lighter weight and much lighter duty. They work GREAT for my Baja Bug and my old offroad race buggy. They can be modified in many of the ways a Hi-Lift can. But they are not as strong. I own several of them. But I also own 2 Hi-Lift jacks. 1 is made by Hi-Lift brand, but labeled "John Deere" and painted black, green and yellow. My other is Harbor Freight. Very little difference between them.
Good ideas for the widow maker jack. I have had some close calls with those jacks in my farming days. I should have checked with Mike Bloomberg on how to operate it. Watch out he might ban this jack. Great video! Thumbs up!
You should put a " T " slot into your front and rear bumper for the highlift jack to fit into for lifting the vehicle one on either side of the bumpers you can even do the same to the rocksliders to stop the jack from sliding off the vehicle when needing to just lift it , most older bull bars had them from factory these days they dont put them on the modern bars
I bought a Handy Man Jack at Farm and Fleet 25 years ago still like new.. as is the one that Belonged to my Grandfather for 70 years.. Of course the older one is a little better quality in some ways .. Good Ideas.. yokes are not sold as Ford 9" or Dana 44 they are sold by the size of u-joined used spline diamanter number of splines ect.. Anyone who does not have such things just laying around might be able to pick them up at a local junk yard..
Excellent production as always. One cautionary comment; you really need to be careful about holding the work with your hand while using the drill press. I'm aware that many smallish drill presses will just slip the belt(s) before they rotate the work into your chest or across your hand, but it's a bad habit. Even a c-clamp or vise grips are better than an ugly injury. Besides, any good habits like this that you can develop now before you realize how awesome it is to have a Bridgeport and/or a lathe the better :)
The top factory piece actually bolts on both straight and 90* to the bar. As it can be used for clamping also. Should you pull with it in that position. I don't know. But I would recommend using shackles when pulling with the highlift anyways.
Careful using those ratchet straps with the bent hooks for lifting or pulling. Passing one hook through the other is a sure way to spread the hook apart and drop whatever you're lifting. Much safer to get a lifting strap or endless loop sling and keep it with your hi-lift jack. You could also weld the sides of those formed hooks together, but be careful not to melt the end of the strap in the process.
Your Hi-Lift Jack is 16 years old.... That's new!! There are 4 or 5 Hi-Lift Jacks here, most are ok ..😂🤣 The good ones are the original Handyman Jacks!!! Two of them here, over 50 years old and in way better shape than the 30 year old Hi-Lifts!!! Don't get me wrong, Hi-Lift are the best you can get now days.. just saying the old Handymans were a lot better!!! Some good ideas!! Thanks for the video
Hmm the using the Hi Lift jack in your lift points is closest to what I'm thinking for my setup. But now I'm rethinking my jack source and pricing out Hi Lifts...LOL Already drawing up drafts so things could get dicey if the weather holds up and I don't cramp up....LOL Hope You enjoy your weekend of wheeling!
I think they should have a hook point on the top and bottom so you can hook a ratchet strap to keep the jack from slipping/kicking out. Or so if the jack does slip out the strap will stop it from flying out and hitting someone. That's a cool setup you got now.
those are some good hilift jack hacks. you could weld a half moon piece on the top of the tire extension piece you used to jack up on the sliders so it would be a little more secure. those are good little projects to help people become better welders. nice video
some interesting ideas...just two observations: 1st the U-joint base..hm..I get it, but can't shake the thought of the jack tipping and then flying out from under the vehicle with force..bear that in mind when prepping to use it. and 2nd.the pad pressing on the side of the tire...maybe a wider cushion there...a piece of wood or something. Just a thought. some very slick thinking though, good job!
A tip for cutting up tires for projects like this. Use lawnmower tires, they aren’t corded with steel or Kevlar or the like. Great video. Really like the U-joint mod.
Ive yet to break a 44 but then again I dont expect my 44s to take a elevated level of abuse they werent designed to handle inspired by a level of stupidity they obviously werent designed to handle either !
Before vid even starts.. the high lift is the single most versatile and useful tool ever invented. If one knows how to use a highlift properly you’re never stuck. I’ve run many rigs wo winches and when alone (I know one should never wheel alone) used my highlift as a winch (yes slowly) to winch myself out.. but winches just add sooo much weight In front of the axle which makes for bad weight balance much like a rear carrier does. My new project cherrokee I got came with a nice winch installed and as they are so front heavy and downhill tipsy to start with pretty sure I’m gonna remove it and the bumper it’s mounted to. I might throw it in the back and put it on a hitch mount so I can use it front or rear but have it stored inside so the weight is over the axles not Infront or behind when wheeling. I won’t know for sure till I put scales under the corners and see how I’m balanced but I might even mount to the rear bumper and only have the option to move to the front when needed. Spare tire will be centered over the rear axle like your TJ build, inside the rear hatch between the two I’ll be better balanced on descends. Wranglers like to tip on uphill (mostly from rear tire carriers and tires behind the axle CL) cherokees like to do the same on descends period and any additional front weight like an 80lb winch and 80lb winch bumper is about the same but in reverse if not worse. I’d actually like to do a chop top type build like scorpion build minus the tapers as that takes a lot of the xj look away and that wheelbase is so extreme even for 40’s. Prop works well for west coast but high center is a bigger issue on the east coast. I’ll be sticking to the factory 108-109” wheelbase as that is perfect and being a tj guy I know that is a perfect number we all strive for in a tj/yj for stability on climbs.
The tire tread pads are a great idea! DON'T use regular car tires, go to your local dirt track and get a used or tore up tire. They do not have steel belts, cuts way easier and NO sharp parts.
Great detail on the tires. Appreciate that. Have been wondering since wanting to use an old Ram tire for tread pieces for garden tractor snow chains where I'll only use stainless chain on the sidewalls. The sidewall rubber, or maybe the tread, I plan to use for snowthrower shims for the single stage on those augers or the second stage on the second stage blowers (as much as would be nice to do the whole edge).
Another killer video. Great ideas! For the upper adapter a mudflap would work well. Almost every farm supply store has them or a truck stop near you. Easy to cut and they lay flat.
I foresee this being a very popular video over time. Super well produced man! I will definitely be using your ideas to make my own hi lift accessories.
This is a great video . Highlifts are awesome and you made some really nice additions. "sketchy" is exactly the right word for describing these jacks too - hahaha.
Your tire jack idea where it hooks onto the wheel is great. I have one that works similar and sits on the edge of the rim. Used it many times to put a bead back on a tire.
I just used my hi-lift jack to break down a trailer tire bead to change the valve stem. I also smashed the living crap out of my thumb between the handle and jack when it started to auto-ratchet on the way down. Never let go of the handle or let it get yanked out of your hand!
Excellent video my friend, this is the first time I have seen your channel. Thank you, it will only serve to inspire many others to use their own home shops to build tools of their own.
Hello Nate, one thought I had would be that instead of the U Joint Base (very cool idea) would to make one that only has one hinge point that could fit on the jack rail in either direction. That way you could choose which way the jack could move. Or FALL haha. Take care and keep these videos coming.
Interesting ideas but I think instead of using the weld on hook I would have cut a keyhole the chain fits in and locks into. Less welded on parts, less chances of failure. Barge all purpose contact cement to glue the rubber to metal.
Swiss Army Jack!! Cool video, them things are dangerous as all hell for sure. I've had mine for 20 years👍 you can get a lot of work done with the farm jack. They work great for pulling old fence posts, a come along, a clamp, don't ever think about pulling a trailer w/out one of those mounted to the front of the box in your pickup so you can change a blown trailer tire.
You might also make an extended foot base plate for that tire lift attachment and especially if you make the extended jack face attachment, it will help offset the lever action due to taking your lifting weight farther away from the shaft of the jack.
I sculpt with tire, and have tried every method of dealing with that super tough mixed medium. At the end of the day, angle grinder with a cutoff wheel is the easiest route. It burns and cuts at the same time, so steel belt needles combined with rubber napalm means plenty of PPE
Great ideas , i fab up a similar attachment for my jack but using 2 chain hooks to hold the load or vehicle while resetting the jack for repeating the procedure. Only part that sucks it starts to get heavy and a second hand always helps when manipulating the jack in a horizontal position
Your ground anchor comes from winter mountaineering where initially folk used an axe as the belay Snow and ice bollard this then became the deadman belay plate and wire used for tent stakes in antarctica. Also similar to using a buried tyre as an anchor
Hope you read this. Polyurethane used for structural adhesion of the windshield to modern vehicles. It is responsible for keeping the windshield to a primered metal surface. So essentially it uses the windshield as a sheet of plywood in the even of a roll over accident but also in the body alignment in cornering at a small level. May not be a permanent solution but definitely should last a few years at least but maybe only a couple uses. But for the price of adhesive and scrap tire you could easily scrape, prime, apply adhesive, and apply fresh tire for minimal fee.
You were talking about the nature of a high lift jack. The nature of a high lift jack is that they will last 50 years just to get the right oppurtunity to kill you. Little known fact is that the high lift was created first. An hour later cussing was invented. Seriously, I am always amazed at the creativity of people on here and you sir are no exception. Great video!
They are very patient. One slip up and it can kill you. On the other hand it can save your bacon.
I have been welding/fabricating for a living for 6 ish years... and I still learn something every time you share one of these types of videos with us. Nice work!
Thank you! That means alot coming from someone with your experience 👍
I'm in the Okanagan Valley in BC. We put bolts through the bases of our Jacks. Gription on logs, snow, and ice. Also, bolts were a life saver when buddy rolled his truck 5 times, crushed the cab flat with the hood and box, and caught on fire. Bolts grabbed the body of the truck and I was able to jack the door open and drag him out.
Following your comment about the jack not being safe and crawling under a vehicle. I used to use my spare as a jack stand, but also carried a bow saw to cut smaller pieces from downed trees as shims/dunnage between the frame and tire. Be safe, be creative!
You just keep doing what your doing. My dad had a scout II back in 76/77 with a real hemi, locker, limited slip and 1/4" skids and everyone thought that was crazy on 33" tires. Ignore the haters. You rock.
Thanks buddy 👊
“Every once in a while you need to get weird with your ideas”, brother, I couldn’t agree more! 😂😂😂
I just picked up a $40 jack off fb market and your video just pushed me deep into the weeds of what I want to modify to my jeep. Never thought of any of this. I just bought a house with a garage and don't have any of these types tools yet either. You made this look like a satisfying hobby.
The attachment you made to lift the rim by is great for yanking posts out of the ground. The flat face rests against the post, wrap a chain around the base of the post and attach the chain to the hole in the bottom of the attachment.
Keep up the great video's Nate . Loved your ideas on this one . I received my Hi Lift jack about four years ago for free. A neighbor of mine at the time worked for the Government and the would use tools like my jack a couple of times ,then throw them away in a pit . My neighbor took four of them at that time and gave me one . Score !! All I did was tare it down and repainted it . Works every time I need to use it .
Nice! It pays to be nice to your neighbors! It sounds like you scored 👍
Like the way you represented the different levels of fabrication.You give respect to all levels of knowledge and we are always learning to build a better version of everything to solve problems that present itself. Thank you for allowing us to learn a little more.
No problem! I was a journeyman plumber for along time and training apprentices was my job. I think that helped keep people's skill levels in perspective and I want newer fabricators to feel represented as well 👍
A good way to keep Hi-Lift from slipping is slid jack nose in shackle to lift the corner of vehicle. I've been able to lift rear end of Jeep up that way a few times (0-4 in lifted Jeep) not so much on a lift with lots of lift and flex. AKA not my XJ. I'm thinking about fabbing up a few of them now again. . On your u-joint base you might want to add a few teeth to bite in and not slip, I added 2 short leaf springs on base for one of my Hi-Lift jacks spreads load and don't slip even on pavement 😉
Tire thoughts. Use bias ply tires. No steel wires to poke you.
To attach the tread use contact cement and either screws or rivets. Another idea is to ise webbing strap. Just grind some relief so the strap sits below the face of the tread.
I saw a nifty trash compactor that was made from a high lift jack.
For Land Rovers (and I mean real Landies Series and Defenders, not Range Rovers and Discovery's!), we use box section sills and bumpers with holes in them to insert a long tube attached to the lifting nose of the Hi-Lift. That keeps the jack from being able to slip off the vehicle as well as keeping it a little farther away from the truck, protecting your bodywork from the jack. I like the tilting base with rubber tire footing. But they must weigh a tonne! Well done! Just as an extra thought, I keep a 12-tonne air over hydraulic bottle jack with me. Hook it up to my onboard ARB compressor and it will lift the whole thing off the ground like it's a marshmallow. ;-) Heavy, yes! Worth it not having to get under the truck to jack with the little bar? Absolutely!!!
That Binzel gun is fantastic! I got one in on trial at work and everyone who used it loved it. The consumables are pretty good too.
Gasifire
Ive used the Hi Lift many times offroad and recommend the 60" vs the 48" because you'll need the extra travel with a flexy suspension. Also, I've had the handle try to take my head off when your hand slips off the handle letting the vehicle down.. I love the accessories that you put together!!
Something the Land Rover crowd does with HiLift jacks is having a tube mounted out on your extension. That tube then acts as a male spigot that goes into a female tube in the rock sliders/steps/bumpers. That way the jack CANNOT slip off. The whole rig can tilt left or right but it won't fall off the jack itself. You can also use your strap (or buy one from HiLift) and use both hooks to attach to your rim. That spreads the load a little across the rim and is a little more stable. Dang useful to lift the whole rim/tire instead of the chassis, especially with coil springs, to get rocks, wood, etc., under a tire to get unstuck. Sometimes all you need is a few inches to get the skidplate of the truck off whatever it's highsided on. Cheers!
Interesting builds... looks good.
I do like the top winching hook mount/foot.
A different approach to the "jackmate" tire lifter device... I use just an axle strap tiedown with 2 lifting hooks, with clevis's that fits the D-ring of the strap.
Lift the tongue of the jack over the top of the tire, with the strap hooks onto a rim hole or spoke, lift the strap with the jack tongue ontop of the tire.
It does help to keep the jack close to the wheel, to minimize tilting and kick out.
I use this and couple with a base plate and stabilizer wires, for my street truck. it works well.
I only say this, as sometime you might have just about everything, but need to save a bit of weight or space.
Hey Nate them ground anchors are very handy we use them primarily in winch comps in Australia we have events that have a compulsory ground anchor winch section
There very handy in the desert when there are no trees around
Loved the video. Great ideas to consider for my hi lift jack. One thing I thought of a long time ago was to make a a base that could slide on. Your two bases there that I loved the had to be bolted on. Make a permanent base that is small. Then have different bases that could slide onto that permanent base. This way if you are playing in mud, sand or snow you can just slide on a large base when you get stuck. If you go rock crawling and get stuck, just slide on the universal base.
So I have a little experience with the U-joint base and sliding your jeep off rocks. The biggest concern is making sure when pushing the vehicle to one side or the other, you neet to make sure your vehicle is jacked up as high as possible on the jack so that you dont sent the top of your jack right into one of your panels as it pivots. That, or use the shortest hi-lift as possible to accomplish the mission.
Just a observation and a possible tip for using the u-joint base. Carry a set of wheel chocks, and use those to prevent it from rolling.
I found an old farm jack (what an old boss called it and old habits die hard), someone had modified the top, hook and base to be interchangeable using threaded pipe and couplers. I like your project much better, but still I found many more uses for farm jacks since I found this one. Sweet garage
Heck, I've had my Hi-Lift Jack since back in the early 70's. I Love it too❕
You can get conversion ujoints in the back of the moog parts book. Great video. I use a rescue 42 jack all the time!
Just remember when buying a highlift jack skip the cheap/inexpensive jack.
These units are very dangerous when lifting heavy rigs and cheap jack break and make it even more dangerous.
Stay away from Princess auto (Canada) Harbour Freight (USA)
15 ton utility pole jack may be an option!
Some called them "widowmaker"
@@Orlena2525 for good reason but You realize the limitations it is a good tool
Oddly enough my no name hi-lifts have taken far more abuse than my name brand unit ever did before breaking.
I don't use my Jack-all jack that often, but I've had it for 40 years now, and I bought it at Princess Auto. It still works.
F550 on 41" tires and four wheel camper. People don't understand it and that's ok! Keep doing your thing.
Check with tire shops that do retreads. The new tread strips has some type of glue on it and they may have small pieces laying around.
Love how well put together your videos are Nate. I know you say you love editing. Would be awesome to see a video on all the behind the scenes stuff! Keep up the grind man!
Awesome video with cool ideas. I have an attachment I bought that hooks into the rim and I use it frequently to lift a corner and fill a hole I'm stuck in and/or get a traction board under that wheel. Less work than trying to lift that whole side up, and less down force on the jack base which can be significant in muddy conditions as the jack base doesn't sink as badly. Also fwiw I've had good luck cutting old tires up with tin snips. And check out pliobond (sp?) as an adhesive. I've used it on rubber to metal, rubber to plastic, and plastic to plastic with good results.
I was really into fabrication and 4X4s and turned out some killer projects but somehow I’ve become old and now drive a stock Tacoma that I’m not thrilled with. I use to attend an 4X4 event in Naches WA with a very built Ranger. I built a Scout 80 with Dana 44s and a Chev V6 earlier. I wish I could have saved all my old projects but I’d need a wear house to keep them in. Keep up the good work.
Hi lifts have their uses but don't leave that bottle jack at home! The lowly bottle jack is a life saver in many situations, changing tires on rigs with flexy suspensions is way easier when you jack the axle. Sometimes it's easier and faster to jack up an axle and chuck a couple of rocks under a tire than any other option to get you over and obstacle. Broken motor mount? try using a hi lift to raise the engine, block it up and chain it down. I can't even remember half the applications I've seen.
if you have some chain just chain the suspension and it wont drop when you jack up
@@imchris5000 I use a heavy nylon ratchet strap when I need to limit axle droop, less likely to damage things.
outstanding video! enjoyed the fab, the ideas, and the NORMAL straightforward narration!
I love watching these kind of builds/upgrades , especially on the high lift jacks, that are already like a Swiss army knifes of jacks ( basically a massive multi tool ) nice work 👍🍻
Awesome hi lift tips nate thank you! So jealous of that shop and tools. Your editing is getting stellar.
Thank you!
I made a replacement rubber pad for my floor jack from a piece of horse stall matt. I tried to cut it just right to snap in like the factory one, but it just wouldn't stay in. I smothered it with the classic Shoe Goo(available in shoe departments in big box stores) and after plenty of used against uneven surfaces(k-bar, diff, axle, shock shackle etc) it hasn't even started to peel off... This glue is amazingly strong/durable and has many uses besides shoe repair!
I’ve got to say, I’m a little disappointed there wasn’t a bottle opener included on that high lift. Great content, keep it coming.
Lol thanks man
Smallblockfuelie no cup holder?
yapbird good idea!
anything is a bottle opener just put the lip of the bottle top on an edge and hit the top
Y Pop feel better? And you’re missing the point.
It was good that you talked about safety for sure....Interesting back in the day they were called bummer jacks and came with the car...now the new name is Hi Lift....they were all as dangerous as they still are today. You made the jack better than it is..good job Nate! The Extenda Jack.
Bumper Jack's that used to come with cars are much lighter weight and much lighter duty. They work GREAT for my Baja Bug and my old offroad race buggy. They can be modified in many of the ways a Hi-Lift can. But they are not as strong. I own several of them. But I also own 2 Hi-Lift jacks. 1 is made by Hi-Lift brand, but labeled "John Deere" and painted black, green and yellow. My other is Harbor Freight. Very little difference between them.
great tips Nate. I made a quick attachment so I can use it to compress between the base and the top.
You could take an old socket and heat with a torch to melt the rubber on the tire do you can recess a bolt in the tire to bolt to your base plate.
Good ideas for the widow maker jack. I have had some close calls with those jacks in my farming days. I should have checked with Mike Bloomberg on how to operate it. Watch out he might ban this jack. Great video! Thumbs up!
You should put a " T " slot into your front and rear bumper for the highlift jack to fit into for lifting the vehicle one on either side of the bumpers you can even do the same to the rocksliders to stop the jack from sliding off the vehicle when needing to just lift it , most older bull bars had them from factory these days they dont put them on the modern bars
Maybe you should put a T slot in your front and rear dumper and stop giving him shit. What!?
I bought a Handy Man Jack at Farm and Fleet 25 years ago still like new.. as is the one that Belonged to my Grandfather for 70 years.. Of course the older one is a little better quality in some ways ..
Good Ideas.. yokes are not sold as Ford 9" or Dana 44 they are sold by the size of u-joined used spline diamanter number of splines ect.. Anyone who does not have such things just laying around might be able to pick them up at a local junk yard..
Excellent production as always. One cautionary comment; you really need to be careful about holding the work with your hand while using the drill press. I'm aware that many smallish drill presses will just slip the belt(s) before they rotate the work into your chest or across your hand, but it's a bad habit. Even a c-clamp or vise grips are better than an ugly injury.
Besides, any good habits like this that you can develop now before you realize how awesome it is to have a Bridgeport and/or a lathe the better :)
I thought the same about work holding. And your point about habits is critical. Habits are just as important as being careful.
A hi lift has saved my ass plenty of times (and also given me a concussion 😂) and now by hell, it’s gonna get some upgrades. Awesome video Nate!
Clicked on a hi lift jack video. 4 minutes later..."that a damn slip yoke there?!?!" 🤣 Awesome video as always good sir!
Lol thanks buddy 😁
Your video checked all the boxes for me. I’m a 4 wheeler and a new/novice home/hobby welder fabricator
Have no idea how awesome and happy this video made me man, been looking for ideas for awhile...
Great! I'm happy to help!
The top factory piece actually bolts on both straight and 90* to the bar. As it can be used for clamping also. Should you pull with it in that position. I don't know. But I would recommend using shackles when pulling with the highlift anyways.
Careful using those ratchet straps with the bent hooks for lifting or pulling. Passing one hook through the other is a sure way to spread the hook apart and drop whatever you're lifting. Much safer to get a lifting strap or endless loop sling and keep it with your hi-lift jack. You could also weld the sides of those formed hooks together, but be careful not to melt the end of the strap in the process.
Your Hi-Lift Jack is 16 years old....
That's new!!
There are 4 or 5 Hi-Lift Jacks here, most are ok ..😂🤣
The good ones are the original Handyman Jacks!!! Two of them here, over 50 years old and in way better shape than the 30 year old Hi-Lifts!!!
Don't get me wrong, Hi-Lift are the best you can get now days.. just saying the old Handymans were a lot better!!!
Some good ideas!!
Thanks for the video
Gosselin Farms Ed Gosselin
I have my Grand uncle’s. I don’t know when he bought it, I can remember him changing tires with it in the early 60s.
@@gregfroehlich4442 the old ones were and still are the best!!!!
Hmm the using the Hi Lift jack in your lift points is closest to what I'm thinking for my setup. But now I'm rethinking my jack source and pricing out Hi Lifts...LOL Already drawing up drafts so things could get dicey if the weather holds up and I don't cramp up....LOL Hope You enjoy your weekend of wheeling!
Great project Nate! It will be fun to fabricate those accessories once I get a HiLift.
Love it. I’ve been practicing welding. Soon I’ll be fabricating
Nice! I look forward to seeing what you build 👊
I think they should have a hook point on the top and bottom so you can hook a ratchet strap to keep the jack from slipping/kicking out. Or so if the jack does slip out the strap will stop it from flying out and hitting someone. That's a cool setup you got now.
Like the show. Have you ever thought about putting spikes on the bottom of the plate so it doesn't kick out so easily.
Great idea!💡
Cool ideas, always nice seeing people freestyle a bit!
Thanks buddy!
those are some good hilift jack hacks. you could weld a half moon piece on the top of the tire extension piece you used to jack up on the sliders so it would be a little more secure. those are good little projects to help people become better welders. nice video
With the "U-Joint Base Plate" you could always use a "Good Tread, but Bad Sidewall Tire" and use Steel Rivits as an Anti-Skid Base"!
some interesting ideas...just two observations: 1st the U-joint base..hm..I get it, but can't shake the thought of the jack tipping and then flying out from under the vehicle with force..bear that in mind when prepping to use it. and 2nd.the pad pressing on the side of the tire...maybe a wider cushion there...a piece of wood or something. Just a thought. some very slick thinking though, good job!
Great job Nate. Keep up the good work. Maybe do a video on why you shouldn't quench your welds while they are hott.
A tip for cutting up tires for projects like this. Use lawnmower tires, they aren’t corded with steel or Kevlar or the like. Great video. Really like the U-joint mod.
Great Job. I don’t own a hi lift and not sure I need one. But you have some cool ideas.
Q: How to make something guaranteed to break when you most need it?
A: Put some Dana 44 parts on it.
Hahaha! I was thinking the same thing
Ive yet to break a 44 but then again I dont expect my 44s to take a elevated level of abuse they werent designed to handle inspired by a level of stupidity they obviously werent designed to handle either !
A Collar/Sleeve around that U-joint could help limit its movement for just slightly uneven ground
Before vid even starts.. the high lift is the single most versatile and useful tool ever invented. If one knows how to use a highlift properly you’re never stuck.
I’ve run many rigs wo winches and when alone (I know one should never wheel alone) used my highlift as a winch (yes slowly) to winch myself out.. but winches just add sooo much weight In front of the axle which makes for bad weight balance much like a rear carrier does. My new project cherrokee I got came with a nice winch installed and as they are so front heavy and downhill tipsy to start with pretty sure I’m gonna remove it and the bumper it’s mounted to. I might throw it in the back and put it on a hitch mount so I can use it front or rear but have it stored inside so the weight is over the axles not Infront or behind when wheeling. I won’t know for sure till I put scales under the corners and see how I’m balanced but I might even mount to the rear bumper and only have the option to move to the front when needed.
Spare tire will be centered over the rear axle like your TJ build, inside the rear hatch between the two I’ll be better balanced on descends. Wranglers like to tip on uphill (mostly from rear tire carriers and tires behind the axle CL) cherokees like to do the same on descends period and any additional front weight like an 80lb winch and 80lb winch bumper is about the same but in reverse if not worse. I’d actually like to do a chop top type build like scorpion build minus the tapers as that takes a lot of the xj look away and that wheelbase is so extreme even for 40’s. Prop works well for west coast but high center is a bigger issue on the east coast. I’ll be sticking to the factory 108-109” wheelbase as that is perfect and being a tj guy I know that is a perfect number we all strive for in a tj/yj for stability on climbs.
You should gusset that base plate. The hi-lift already has a tendency to fall over or tip and put uneven stress at the bottom
I've never tried to cut a tire but I've cut thick rubber for a gasket and rubber hydraulic hoses with cutoff wheels on a 4 1/2" grinder
Next time you need tread rubber, find a retreading shop and ask them for some scraps. It'll be flat and won't have steel belts to worry about.
The tire tread pads are a great idea! DON'T use regular car tires, go to your local dirt track and get a used or tore up tire. They do not have steel belts, cuts way easier and NO sharp parts.
Great detail on the tires. Appreciate that. Have been wondering since wanting to use an old Ram tire for tread pieces for garden tractor snow chains where I'll only use stainless chain on the sidewalls. The sidewall rubber, or maybe the tread, I plan to use for snowthrower shims for the single stage on those augers or the second stage on the second stage blowers (as much as would be nice to do the whole edge).
Love your ideas. I cut tires often. Use a sawzall with a wood/metal blade, 5TPI.
Seriously love your videos Nate! Keep up the great work!
Thank you!
Great ideas and some pretty easy tools to make a tool better. Thanks for sharing
Another killer video. Great ideas!
For the upper adapter a mudflap would work well. Almost every farm supply store has them or a truck stop near you. Easy to cut and they lay flat.
I foresee this being a very popular video over time. Super well produced man! I will definitely be using your ideas to make my own hi lift accessories.
Thank you! I spend alot of time trying to get the best production so it's very Vindicating to have someone notice 👍
This is a great video . Highlifts are awesome and you made some really nice additions. "sketchy" is exactly the right word for describing these jacks too - hahaha.
Lol thanks for watching 👍
Your tire jack idea where it hooks onto the wheel is great. I have one that works similar and sits on the edge of the rim. Used it many times to put a bead back on a tire.
I’ve seen people use the weight of the vehicle with the jack to break beads on tires as well
I just used my hi-lift jack to break down a trailer tire bead to change the valve stem. I also smashed the living crap out of my thumb between the handle and jack when it started to auto-ratchet on the way down. Never let go of the handle or let it get yanked out of your hand!
Sure as hell beats carrying a sledge with you!
abicor is a high end torch. you wont be dissapointed
Nice J series! I have a beautiful 1966 J2000 short bed my dad left me. Don't see them anymore.
Excellent video my friend, this is the first time I have seen your channel. Thank you, it will only serve to inspire many others to use their own home shops to build tools of their own.
Thank you! I'm glad you discovered my channel!
That lands anchor idea is genius hi-lift from he want to upgrade are the design .😎
Bunch of great ideas! I try to avoid hi lift jacks but these would definitely make it a more useful tool.
Very cool! Glad I stumbled on this. Amd I agree with the other comments. Windshield urethane would probably be great for attaching the tire rubber.
The thing that goes in the ground as a winch point is called a land anchor.
Hello Nate, one thought I had would be that instead of the U Joint Base (very cool idea) would to make one that only has one hinge point that could fit on the jack rail in either direction. That way you could choose which way the jack could move. Or FALL haha. Take care and keep these videos coming.
What’s up with those BFG Krawlers there? New project or for the TJ?
😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
Keep up the good work man. Another job well done.
👊
Great vid! Just finished touching up the ancient paint on mine and will build the attachments!
Pretty cool add-ons. Nicely done.
Interesting ideas but I think instead of using the weld on hook I would have cut a keyhole the chain fits in and locks into. Less welded on parts, less chances of failure.
Barge all purpose contact cement to glue the rubber to metal.
Swiss Army Jack!!
Cool video, them things are dangerous as all hell for sure.
I've had mine for 20 years👍 you can get a lot of work done with the farm jack. They work great for pulling old fence posts, a come along, a clamp, don't ever think about pulling a trailer w/out one of those mounted to the front of the box in your pickup so you can change a blown trailer tire.
You might also make an extended foot base plate for that tire lift attachment and especially if you make the extended jack face attachment, it will help offset the lever action due to taking your lifting weight farther away from the shaft of the jack.
Good thinkin
Great ideas man. I'm not sure about that ujoint base, but I see where youre going with it. I really love the tire lift attachment.
Thanks man! I like to push the boundaries a little bit from time to time. If the ujoint base is garbage then that is where it will end up 👍
I sculpt with tire, and have tried every method of dealing with that super tough mixed medium. At the end of the day, angle grinder with a cutoff wheel is the easiest route. It burns and cuts at the same time, so steel belt needles combined with rubber napalm means plenty of PPE
Great ideas , i fab up a similar attachment for my jack but using 2 chain hooks to hold the load or vehicle while resetting the jack for repeating the procedure. Only part that sucks it starts to get heavy and a second hand always helps when manipulating the jack in a horizontal position
Dude bad ass video man! Very informative on the how-to. I was hooked when you broke out the welder lol
Thank you!
Your ground anchor comes from winter mountaineering where initially folk used an axe as the belay Snow and ice bollard this then became the deadman belay plate and wire used for tent stakes in antarctica. Also similar to using a buried tyre as an anchor
Hope you read this. Polyurethane used for structural adhesion of the windshield to modern vehicles. It is responsible for keeping the windshield to a primered metal surface. So essentially it uses the windshield as a sheet of plywood in the even of a roll over accident but also in the body alignment in cornering at a small level. May not be a permanent solution but definitely should last a few years at least but maybe only a couple uses. But for the price of adhesive and scrap tire you could easily scrape, prime, apply adhesive, and apply fresh tire for minimal fee.
Nice video. I hated my jack because it worked so poorly. Then I finally lubed up the mechanisms and it works great. Who'd of though it.