X56 2 Years Review - Is it any good?
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- Опубліковано 28 лис 2024
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I had an X-52 that I played with from 2007-2019. It held up nicely.
2:47 Logitech stated on a reddit AMA that they brought the X-56 up to "their level" of manufacturing quality. Seems legit but it could just be marketing. I waited for the Logitech version and so far so good after 18 months.
I have had both now and the only difference besides color is how they route the wires inside the throttle. They are both EXACTLY the same besides that. Really what would or could they do to make it different not much because it would require complete re-tooling.
@@Abyssdiver I suspected retooling would of cost them too much.
Does the Logitech version of thhe X56 include suction cups? I have the X52 and that did but haven't found any info on the X56. Thanks!
I got the logitech one, is garbage.
Glad you had good luck with yours. I had the Madcatz X-55 version that lasted 21 days before a wire in the throttle for a button broke. Returned it and purchased a TM Warthog and have had that for fives year now. Did have to replace one wear item and re-grease it.
I've had my X55 since ED was released and have had no issues. I have it plugged into a powered USB. I love it.
I have had mine for over a year now with no problems.
yeah same
@@megasparky2657 any update?
@@christopher5846 Still no problem
@@megasparky2657 Great to hear mate!
I have been using my X56 setup for all but 1 week that I have been playing ED - I used Keyboard and Mouse the first week. I have been playing ED for 3 years. The only issue that I have had with it was related to USB ports. If I had the stick and the throttle plugged into the same USB bus, the throttle seemed to be a bit sketchy as far as functionality in that it would only work from time to time and button/stick functions would seem to get confused. Since I learned this, and plug the two into different USB buses, I don't have that issue any longer. I have (and will) recommend this HOTAS to anyone...but that is just me and I know people have different experiences.
Chewed through 3 of these (Saitek variant), all similar problems, horrid dead zone/wandering controls, broken mini sticks, bad springs and after 3 warranty jobs/replacements I swapped over to a Thrustmaster Warthog, 5 years on and It's still going strong.
I've had 3 x52 hotas since 2005. The usb issues where constant from the beginning and the drivers very finicky. The quality is ok for the price and it fit the bill for most everything I did with it. When I could afford the upgrade to a Thrustmaster Warthog I did. In hindsight I probably would have saved money by going with the Warthog initially as the build quality is significantly higher. For it's price range you get a good stick, but if you can afford it I'd recommend going with a higher quality setup.
I recently got the Logitech version of the stick and had noticed ghost presses of buttons. I had the sticks plugged into my monitors USB ports - basically a hub. In the past, things that needed to be charged from the monitor didn't charge consistently - so I've moved the throttle over to my PC tower after your video talking about specific ports causing ghost presses. Thanks for the tip.
@HadronFlux It might also vary within the tower USB ports, my X52 P (also Logitech) shows up under "Devices and Printers" only when plugged to the motherboard back USB ports, but not when plugged to the case USB ports even though it shows up in the Device Manager and works in game.
Thank you, coming from an x52 8+ year old HOTAS user. I too was tempted by the x52 pro but tbh, the little mouse thing on the stick plus off loading the bulk of button to the throttle hand makes a lot of sense in terms of keeping full directional control of the whilst toggling gears etc.
I did buy a thrust master HOSAS t18000 setup a couple of years ago but honestly I felt the build quality was cheap and just ergonomically speaking not the same feel as my x52, so I sold them and went back to my broken x52. The mini-mouse X axis locks right, so has to be disabled, there is a fair amount of jitter on most axis that dead zoning does fix, but for a hotas i brought second hand 8 something years ago, it is a trooper and the x52 Rhino Black I just brought has a lot to live up to,
My treat for the drop of Odyssey, o7
The wires in the throttle and stick are very small and fragile. The X-55 I used had several broken connections inside the throttle from the wires being moved back and forth. The x-56 routes the wires a bit differently however the same problem will happen sooner than later. My first X-55 lasted roughly 2 years the newer X-56 I still have and is working for the time being. Don't use oil based grease on the stick it will break down the plastic instead use silicone grease and you will love it.
I had ghost presses when I first got the x56. The solution for me is to plug the throttle and the stick into separate USB headers. As to the software I did not use it at all at first. Then one day I sat down with the hotas, the software, and elite dangerous and just read the manual and tried diferent things. At some point in doing this the methodology started making sense and then I could see how powerful the app is. The bottom line is to understand that you are programing the hotas to do commands which already exist in whatever game you are playing. This is the basis for how the mode switches work and I think most people don't understand it.
I dunno, x56 using it for two years without any hardware problems is great. My Thrustmaster lasted 3 months before I had to tear it down and fix ghost yawing. When I heard you had used it for 2 years, you already sold me on it, despite you not recommending it.
I have the same Saitek version as you and the creaking/groaning really gets to me. What type of grease are you using? I had to order some online but it really only works briefly and then the creaking returns. I like all the buttons and switches, which are actually pretty important for VR. I use it for DCS as well and can’t see going to a HOTAS with less hats/buttons.
Try using a PTFE lube (yes PTFE like the plumbing tape) its a NSF H1 dry lubricant does not corrupt electrics/electronics.. works for me
The ghost button presses drove me crazy for the longest time! After months of testing and troubleshooting, I found out that the throttle needed to be on a Motherboard-mounted USB series all by itself.
So on my setup, I had everything connected to USB 2.0... and the throttle using one of the USB 3.0 with the other USB 3.0 having to be empty.
If I plugged in ANYTHING else with it in the USB 3.0 row, the ghost presses would come back with a vengeance.
I'm on my second X-52 (second one was the Pro) and I just purchased the X-56 Rhino because of all the extra features it has. My X-52's served me well but I would like the ability to not have to remove my hand off my hotas if it's at all possible and that's where the X-56 comes in. Like your X-56, my X-52 drifts in random directions and it too has some squeaks to it after many years worth of use. Fortunately for me, unplugging the control stick from the throttle control and plugging it back in fixes my drift problem. It must be a Logitech\Saitek thing they are plagued with.
I'm hoping to get many years of my X-56. I'm not hard on my "toys" but since I paid a lot for this X-56, I'll probably use it a lot.
Question....What did you upgrade too? I know this video is over 2 years old but would like to know what you are using now.
Thanks for the follow up review.
Nobody had the "phantom button press" issue? It seems to be related to the power the throttle consumes from the USB port. From time to time, random button presses are registered, specially the buttons located to the bottom right area of the throttle unit. I noticed that the highest the brightness setting of the LEDs, the more often the buttons were phantom pressed. Also, when the port is not powerful enough, the bottom LEDs turn orange and, if the port is really underpowered, the botton LEDs turn on red. I believe this is an undocumented diagnostic tool.
I had the X55 - the buttons went soft but still function and the twist spring broke - i replaced that with one from a cyborg stick - I would like to get a few spare springs but have been unable to source some, I also had an issue with some of the wiring and soldering - the gimbal is excellent and still is ,once the issues were sorted it is flawless even for a south paw like myself
Thank you. At least now I know if it's worth it or not. I'll look into the x52 because in MSFS, Ace Combat and Fighters Anthology? I wanna do some dogfighting too. I can't rely on the thrustmaster because it's not the same.
I had four of these within a couple of years. Great as long as they lasted, but broke quickly. That was before Logitech took over.
Then I had a Trustmaster which was rubbish, and also broke.
Just had the recalibration bug a few days ago for the first time, the advanced docking computer saved my anaconda. Also the LEDs on the Stick (not the Throttle) apparently aren't able to display orange/yellow anymore, which is weired, since red and green are working individually just not together. I also had to set up deadzones for the mini stick on the throttle, because my ship was always drifting at 3 km/h. But thats all small issues. I tried mouse and keyboard, tried playing with a PS4 controller and had a cheap hotas before the x56, but in the end having the possibility to map every useable function in the game to one input device, I can use blindly makes playing elite so much more fun.
I'm a few years worth of use x56. I am getting something else now and for two main reasons. The throttle, no matter how hard I tighten it just gradually makes it's way to full as I'm flying, this happened maybe after 20 hours of use. It is sooo annoying. Secondly, the centre point and deadzone is very sub par for the price. Expect to set up pretty decent deadzones in flight sims. In DCS for example I have 15 set on the x and y. One smaller reason is the button placement is shite.
I would say go with another brand. It feels fine on the outside but I really question the internals.
You mentioned the thrustmasters joystick which has an issues with the swivel on the stick after a short period of use, and the thrustmaster throttle movement is not smooth because of the way it is constructed without bearings, which there are 3rd party vendors who provide a fix for the slider problem on those throttles.
My opinion on the thrustmaster items are that for the price of those two things, I expect them to last longer than they do before they develop problems. And, thrustmaster isn't helpful if it fails after the short warranty period. They tell you to buy a new one. :P They should fix those problems in the factory, at minimal cost to them, which would be a positive customer satisfaction improvement for their items.
I have the same habit with the Pro Throttle and the thing apart from some gunk in the ridges of the hat switches that I need to clean every now and then looks basically new.
software and drivers are crap. hardware is good! 1 year short review :D
I'm looking to pick up the Newer version of your X56 Rhino, but they seem to be out of stock everywhere. Notice though that even though they are out of stock, some are being sold for a lot more than the $249 price shown on the Logitech website.
GOD First!!!
GOD Bless!!!
Love All!!!
Keep checking the Logitech website. I just grabbed one from there :)
Yep. Out of stock. I check the Logitech site and Amazon every day.
Damn.. don't mind the physical wear but the sensors are not effected for almost 2 years is impressive!
I just bought the T16000m stick only and looking forward to buy Hotas of x56
I have a saitek 52x flight system. Only issue I have with it is the rudder control either is completely dead when yawing right, or it’s totally turning me right constantly. Other than that, my HOTAS has served me well now for almost 10 years.
I just recently upgraded my Saitek X36 (their original HOTAS from the 90's) to the X52 Pro. The extra buttons are nice but I absolutely prefer the rudder "pedals" that were on the under side if the throttle control instead of the twist joystick. Remapping my buttons in the controls was also huge pain in the ass. I ordered the X52 Pro at just the right time. Delivery took forever due to the pandemic. A couple day before delivery my rudder control broke. Why can I say it put a lot of time in the X vs Tie, X-wing Alliance and Tachyon over the years.
I had a X52 but the metal ring that controls the yaw on the stick broke and I lost that function. I bought the X56 and had the USB ports issue. Just couldn't get them to work on USB 3 and only works on USB 2. I always disconnect them, and just before starting the game I plug them in and they always self calibrate, because I read that every time you disconnect and reconnect it calibrates itself. I think it's great because it works for me!
I bought the X55 Rhino just after the release of Elite and had no issues that I didn't make until recently when the yaw spring broke. Tried contacting support and nothing.. might have to check your review on your new HOTAS.
I’m a very normal size person and I found the X 56 to be incredibly uncomfortable I can barely pull the trigger and press secondary fire with my thumb at the same time, the thing is bulbous. If you’re doing training or exploration it’s OK, if you do combat and especially PVP combat, the stick is a hindrance! The thrustmaster 16000 is nearly perfect in accurate, resistance and ergonomics, but the twist action will break within a few months of use, I’ve broken two consecutively so far.
Had mine for about half a year now with about 250 hours usage and I have to say I wouldn't recommend it. Has SO MANY mechanical problems such as the centre wobble in the stick that make small movement in planes a little hard, the 'crunch' in the stick's analog thumb stick, inconsistent tension in the throttles, the 'E' button sometimes get jammed on throttle. The button on the rear of the throttle is a bit wobbley. It's a good HOTAS, but shouldn't be the price it is. You essentially paying for a aesthetics and lots of buttons. It's good for game like Elite Dangerous where larger movement of the throttle and stick are needed, but not as good for game like IL2:Sturmovik: Battle of Staligrad where you have to make small, fine movement of the stick to stay in formation, aim etc.
The throttle moves on it's own too, which I had to fix myself by adding rubber stoppers to the base of each throttle. Again, inconvieient for staying in formation or maintaining engine settings.
Never had a Thrustmaster Warthog, but I'm already thinking, after 6 months, of switching to one.
I've noticed a lot of people saying "I've had this for x amount of months/years with no problems. What they fail to realize is that peripherals like this should reliably last 10 years or more. The fact that you even have to say that is a huge red flag.
Mine lasted for about 11 years (madcatz x55). Earlier this year the spring of the pinky button kinda exploded as I was locking the tailwheel of a dc3, and shortly after the throttle lever just broke off.
I just bought a new logitech x56, but now that I see all these reviews I fear I might have been blessed with that particular unit….
I've also come from an x52 Pro to the x56 - but I got the Logitech version of the x56, and I use a powered external USB hub for it. Never had any ghosting problems whatsoever. But both the x52 Pro and the x56 are very good; hard to choose between them.
@D2EA - did you actually use the software to program the x56 at all, or did you just configure the standard setup in E:D?
Hi, is it still good? Thx
I've had one of these for 3 years and had the same problems but I need to re-calibrate the stick much more often. they are Ok'ish designs with terrible software so much so that I don't use the profile software at all. there defiantly not worth the price.
How much did you pay?
I agree. I have the X52 Pro - and the software is nothing short of unusable. I actually use voice attack instead for macro's instead of the Saitek software. Can't wait to get a Virpil!
@@Obi-Wan81 I've had X52 for 13 years. The software is just fine.
I literally see your point when you mention "squeakiness" hehe. Had the same with elderly Logitech Wingman Extreme and Force, both models. I used something weird but proof no damage , Braun shaver's oil, worked better than grease and a few drops fixed for at least a month. Same calibration/software issues too , but that's it, can't fix stupidity.
What drew you to the Virpil after being content with this HOTAS ?
Look into them. Virpil is on another level, full metal base, gears, ability to customize tension on every axis, etc. It's a serious toy, kinda like a "pro" level HOTAS, but you'll pay for it.
@@bartacus3521 oh, believe me, I've researched Virpil heavily. I'm just curious to hear the author's point of view. He seemed quite content with the X56 , so I'm interested in knowing a comparison, considering the massive amount of money the Virpil gear costs. I've been very close to buying the Virpil myself
I have had t16000m , warthog hotas, x56 and now virpil... and x56 was the worst experience for me.. t16000m best budget hotas and good for elite.. warthog is great and virpil is my ultimate favorite right now.. Just FYI i have also been using these sticks on Digital Combat Simulator.
Virpil sticks are designed to have the most buttons and analogue sticks to suit ur needs.. a kind of a super hybrid capability for sims and space sims but they also have space sim versions only.. virpil is currently on the top of my list.
As for saitek they have the worst ergonomics and quality.. some buttons u cant reach with ur thumv unless u lift ur hand from the stick for example. And its really hard to use the rudder or Z axis on it as u need to squeeze it to rotate it. Sold it on my third week as it was performing poorly and my aim sucked cuz if itt. Search ralfidudes review on the sticks as well.. hes experienced
Virpil uses higher quality HAT switches than VKB.
@@Vampiresquid007 The X52 probably has the best ergonomy ever and Saitek is generally renowed for its top notch ergonomy (pre 2004). The X56 was designed by Mad Catz.
I own the updated Logitech-G X56, which did manage to fix a number of the old Saitek issues, mostly due to wiring and wire routing. When I first got it, it took so much force to move the throttle, I thought I was going to break it! It was extremely stiff due to the stock "grease", which was more akin to uncured epoxy. And it was not easy to remove from certain areas inside the unit, ans even solvent would not break it down enough to remove it. After removing the stock grease, and the detents at 10% and 90% (Why there would be detents there is beyond me.), I filled the areas (Yes, filled) with Silicone Dielectric grease. The throttle is now smooth as silk. If you do not use enough dielectric grease, there will be no friction to keep the throtle from moving on it's own due to gravity.
The stick suffered from the same stock grease, which had to be removed and replaced with Silicone Dielectric grease. And the twist was very stiff, as if the spring inside the stick is just too much.
The software is a complete joke! Logitech have never been known to have excellent software, or even half descent for that matter, but this is just pure laziness. It is just the crappy old Saitek software, with a cheap coat of Logitech paint! They couldn't even be bothered to integrate it with their Logitech Gaming Software. I had to stop using it because it would frequently disconnect the HOTAS, so you were forced to unplug it and plug it back it for it to be recognized. Completely unacceptable. And Logitech's customer service is about as good as the software! Since I uninstalled the software, I have had zero issues in that respect. To add more functionality, I use the "pinkie lever" on the stick as a modifier (like a shift or function key) to allow each button to have 2 commands assigned to it.
I have nearly 1000 hrs on the HOTAS in Elite Dangerous. I play exclusively in VR, so the sheer amount of buttons, hats, and analog inputs are invaluable to me. Funny you should mention the squeaking noise from the stick, as I just started to notice mine doing the same in the past few days.
The X56 had the potential to be a great HOTAS, but just falls short. At it's price point that is. If you can get it on sale, and don't mind spending a couple of hours doing some modifications, it's an OK HOTAS.
o7
Just a quick tidbit for ya: The reason for the detents at 10% and 90% are for games that have reverse thrust and/or emergency thrust.
My 6 year old X52 Pro is slowly dying and I was looking at the X56, so this is just what I was looking for! I gotta admit, Saitek's drivers and software have been crap forever. I don't even use them and just go through windows. Hopefully the Logitech buyout means they'll be improved when I pull the trigger on an X56.
Is there any chance that u can share your button setup for Elite on the new Virpil setup? Will get one myself soon to replace my X.55 and have no idear how to use all of the buttons.
I have the same hotas and i absolutely love it
I wonder if the new logitech versions will have better software/drivers
is this the original x56 or the v2 which was after logitech took over
My x52 has suction cups, on both bases. It's more than 14 years old though.
I'm using X56 too, was wondering if you have any videos explaining your preferred button mapping?
let me know if you find one :)
usually, the default provided by ED on the options (select it on the bindings) is enough, just add your own personal flair to it
for example, I used the dial next to the lower switches on the throttle to change the sensor range, and the one above it to tune
pinky handle button on the joystick is set to FA off on hold, I changed that to switch firegroups, used the second button (on the base) for deploying hardpoints
Really good review. Thank you.
I have an X-52 at the moment. I may go to the pro version.
I currently have a major problem with my (Logitech) X-56 in Elite! Every few minutes the buttons on the joystick suddenly become unresponsive and the stick movement in game seems to switch from analogue to digital! This is rectified by unplugging and replugging into the USB port but the issue happens again either a few seconds or minutes later. The throttle will also sometimes go dead but this is a much rarer thing. Trying different USB ports doesn't make any difference and I dont have any other game to test the Hotas with either.
I've had the X-56 for over a year (it was a free replacement for a faulty Saitek model) and this problem started about three months ago. I'm convinced its an issue within Elite (it happens mostly when in the system mapping section) and was about to raise a support ticket but thought I'd check if anyone else has been experiencing something like this too.
Thank for the 2 Years Review. Its what i see at my x56 Throttle as well. (coating wearing) The Stick i changed to VKB. So i did not use it at all, only the Throttle.
Gameglass is great, i use it, and also Roccat Grip, what is up again after 2 Years dissapearing. Its a strong little SW. You should try. Macros, shortcuts, made own toggles from scratch, its more open.
Hope you are fine this Days. stay save
See you out there Cmdr o7
Had mine for over four years (the Rhino version - X55?) and still use the throttle. Switched to VKB MCG Pro with stick extension last year and it is simply superb. I'm now waiting for the VKB throttle (sigh). The X55/6 is great value for what it offers.
My X56 stick failed in about 10 months. They replaced it in warranty. The replacement process was straight forward. The issue was electrical contact of stick with base.
Prior to this, my x55 throttle died, the infamous pinched cables..
i'm looking for throttles and i found the x 56 one at 90 €, is it worth it?
I tried honestly everything, powered usb hub, usb 3 ports only, usb2 ports only. one powered one not, trying out nearly every combo on my mobo in terms of sockets for the stick and ... still... its 100% random about the ghosting issue. Thing is, it worked PERFECTLY fine for about 3 years, then i didnt use it really for two years and now... random ghosting. Whatever i did, same ports sometimes work, sometimes they wont. (old saitek model)
One issue i found during my research, that at least in the older X55 models, they used cheap wiring where the outer cover is made of poor quality plastics that get stiff after a time and then start to break, after they break they put strain on the strands of the individual ropes, and cpupled with the power draw issue, that changes the resistivity of the wires -> causing ghost inputs as well.
I do not know why. Maybe because i really like the sticks layout as an allrounder for MSFS and Space Games (where the Thrustmaster T16000M, and the Warthog dont fulfill everything i like) ... maybe because im dumb and it was late nite.. i bought another copy, now from logitech that arrives tomorrow. If the issues presist i will instantly return them.
As for compeditors, i couldnt find anybody reputable that sells those other.. vkb n such systems here in switzerland, and coupled with warranty fears and import issues (taxes) im not going to "import" one here. I hope it works, the only other option that is at least similar alrounderish i can get is said 16kM from Thrustmaster. :/
Bought my X52 pro for Elite way back at first release and have well over a thousand hours on it, has definitely worn better than yours but the software is still shit, no problems with USB compatibility though.
The issue isn't with USB power. It's not having enough PCIe lanes available. Most Intel CPU's are between 16 and 24 PCIe Lanes and AMD between 24 and 64 lanes. Keep in mind that most mid to high end GPU's will require 16. If you're using a VR headset and a wifi adapter, you're basically out of PCIe lanes at that point. You can purchase a PCIe USB hub but make sure it has it's own chipset or you'll just be compounding the issue. If you're looking to upgrade your VR for SIM games, go with an HP Reverb G2 as it uses "inside out" tracking and only requires a single USB-C port connections. the G2 has the highest res for the best price. The only choice for SIM games and worked just find when playing through HLA. I just wouldn't use it for any frantic multiplayer shooters.
One more thing, 20 series NVIDIA GPU's and all the way back to the 9 series GPU's have a built in USB-C or USB-3 port that is perfect (made for) VR but will also work with any USB device and absolutely has it's own USB chipset that will output 3.5v.
thing;
Astro, please to a video on the economics/costs involved with a carrier. Namely accrued and the projected costs. Does a 100% tariff offset this? When do your profits from refuel/repair hit your carrier credit balance? Thanks for all you do for us. o7
About the USB ports, my X52 P doesn't like external ports from the case. It still works but the motherboard's own ports seem to have better compatibility and the hotas only shows up under "Devices and Printers" when plugged directly to them. Compatibility probably varies with motherboard USB chipset.
About the re-calibration, Windows seems to mess up with the driver config files and I have to redo my settings, I'm thinking it's the Windows updates wiping the files clean.
Hey I just happened to watch your old review, and you post this! I actually just bought an x52 pro... i’m hoping overall i have a painless experience. PS: hope to come see you in colonia (i’m terrible at how YT works, I already mentioned this)
Tips for the X52P after a couple of years with one: find an USB port that shows it in Devices and Printers (for me it's only the ports on the motherboard, not the case chassis hub) and stick to that one even if you have to use an extension, the chip controlling the port makes a big difference. Create a desktop shortcut to the X52 icon from Devices and Printers, Windows wipes the deadzones and other button and lighting driver settings from time to time.
I agree on the X-52 Pro...and why that is my current choice of controller. If you can tell me why the clutch button went 100% dead I would appreciate it. Is there a possibility of re-configuring it accidentally? It worked fine, then one day, it was just dead. And it is such a nicely located fire button I hate to lose! IOn the bottom, the little rubber pads wind up in your dog's doo as they pop off without warning in no time at all. On the X-52 pro, there are 4 extra slots on the bottom - one in each corner - where you can iinsert suction cups picked up at local hardware stores. You really WANT those controllers to NOT slide at all...and the suction cups end the sliding AND provide some cushioning flex also.
P.S. I have to ask what the brass ring with the three wooden beads on your wall represents? The sun and Earth?
Keep making the great videos...you are helping so many of us!
Windows seems to wipe the config for the clutch from discreet button to shift every couple of months, I have to open it in Devices and Printers and redo my Clutch and deadzones. The HOTAS might have to be plugged to a motherboard USB port, if it's in my case front ports it shows up on Device Manager but not on Devices and Printers.
I have to disable clutch or half the buttons on the stick wont work.
Have this, only issue is my LEDs are flashing and flickering and shit, but flawless otherwise.
Thank you man!
Hey DTEA, What are your thoughts on the new game in development, Matter Flow? Looks super interesting and has only ONE dev! :O
Huh, money question. Still use x52, works... mmmm quite well, but omg about 1k € for new good one... Ahhhh
What grease did you use?
Anyway thanks for nice videos about Ed and all around
first month i had mine (the logitec branded one) the lighting in the stick started going dumb. it flashes and cycles like mad and when you twist it it cuts out again. it is hella comfortable though as i have big hands and i don't even need the little add on shelf. also i get shocked by the metal switches.. which is odd.
If you are getting shocked there's definitely a broken wire inside, wouldn't be the first time I read of this on sticks with rotation axis
i been getting those ghost presses likee crazy recently
A powered USB hub fixed ghost presses for me
Don't quite agree with you. I specifically waited to get a Logitech rather than a Saitek and I have had zero issues with it. I even seem to remember that Logitech market it as requiring a powered USB hub. Anyway, I'd still basically agree with you - the software is awful and, for ED, an X52 Pro is 'better' but in any game with a dual throttle.... Physically, this stick has given me no issues at all...but the software really sucks :) Thanks for your advice when I got it and, I guess, I'll be following you to the Virpil if/when this breaks.
I had to order this due to my hotas x starting to give ghost commands and x52 pro not comming in stock until the end of the month.
How do you like it so far?
@@TheCe1ticZombie I like it a lot
hello, do yo run this through a powered usb hub? if so why is this
I just bought this used online -the blue one- and someone said the blue one is not as good as the grey model /facepalm, we'll see
After seiing this, and looking at my 2 Year old ThrusmasterHCS, that still looks and works like on Day1, i am happy i skipped this one.
Can I buy it from you?? Can't find any.
For my x52 pro i always use the much better Saitech software that can be hard to find on the web - the Logitech software is horrific. I do wish they would start to make soe better versions of those. ...and no - i do not consider the 16000 a improvement. Which is subjective ofcause - but Logitech could do so much better in terms of quality and feature. ... and no RGB rainbow unichorn puke is needed :D
I'll be glad to take that X56 off your hands :)
I have a Logitech Extreme 3D Pro. It's garbage. Don'y buy this. I have to re-calibrate it most days. But as a precaution, before taking off, do a quick flick over to free camera first. Got that mapped to the joystick too. Better a wildly spinning camera than having your billion credit Cutter bouncing along the floor of the station.
I had a X52 Pro, till it's nek broke\
Edit: Also the x52 pro is hard to get at the moment afaik
Yeah, I had a bugger of a job sourcing a X52 Pro, ended up getting one from the flightsimwebshop in NL. However both Logitech UK and Amazon UK are now showing them back in stock so it seems the worst of the drought is over.
how do you guys deal with all the buttons on hotas? i bought a thrustmaster x and i had to set up like 3 or 4 modifier buttons that i have to hold in and push the same button for a different effect. couldnt remember everything so went to kbm and im perfectly fine with all hotkeys
The HOTAS X has too few buttons, at that point it's better to get a T-16000m in the version without throttle so you can have a decent joystick for pitch, roll and yaw and use the keyboard for the throttle and the rest of the hotkeys like spacesims and flight simulators were played in the 90s. In general it's not a problem to memorize everything with use but too many layers can be a problem. One of the first profiles I made for my HOTAS had a total of five layers and couldn't figure out anything beyond the second, I ended up rationalizing the controls better and reducing to two layers but that was because my HOTAS has a lot more buttons than the HOTAS X in the first place.
the blue X56 is not as reliable or well-built as the grey one that Logitech now sells.
Mine Z-Axis is absolutely destroyed after a year, this stick will not survive a PvP pilot in Star Citizen. Its making loud noises and theres no silicon enough in the planet to solve it.
What grease do you recommend for lubrication?
The best grease for joysticks especially plastic against plastic is Nyogel 767A. It's a dampening grease that lubricates, fills out little scratches and irregularities and it adds dampening which is really nice for joysticks. Use gloves when applying.
The Nyogel is considered the top grease among the r/hotas community on reddit. I have a tube and it made a massive difference for my t16000m, my x52 pro and my defender cobra m5.
@@Pretagonist Do you think WD-40 will work?
@@GM-qi8pw use a silicone based lubricant. WD40 can damage certain plastics
am i the only CMDR that doesn't own horizons?
Hey, I've an idea re the sliding/missing rubber foot pad - PUT A NEW ONE ON!!! It's not rocket science (see what I did there!?). Very cheap and very quick and very easy to do. DUH!
I will give you 20 euros for it
mouse and keyboard all the way