DIY Marine Diesel Engine Oil Change
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- Опубліковано 15 лип 2024
- Let us share with you an easy way to save money on your boat costs by doing more of the boat-work maintenance jobs yourself and in this video we tackle a DIY oil change on a marine diesel engine, a job which is super easy!
The 12v pump I used to extract the oil: amzn.to/408jO6N
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If you want to save some more money Dom, here's a couple of tips. Your engine is a Perkins painted green plus a few other bits added by VP. Buy a Perkins oil filter. Also Volvo don't make oil, so buy same grade SAE 15w40 API CL-4 oil from Shell (Rotella. T4) or any other hi quality 15w40 API CL-4 diesel oils, some even have the Volvo spec in the small print. Check the spec.
Edit, just read the Shell spec. Latest RotellaT4 is API CK-4, even better and has Volvo VDS-4.5 on the approved list.
Don’t forget to “Run the Engine” a minute or two then let it sit for 5 minutes BEFORE you finish topping it off after the initial fill…!!! ✅ Another Hi-Quality video, and tell Carlie hello for us while she’s WORKING… 😎👍👏👌🥳
Hi Dom
Don’t forget your filter is dry. Put in the 10 Liters and run for 5 min, let it set for 15 min then recheck and then set your level of oil you like… Great looking Boat.
Some hint: let the Engine run for one minute before finally checking the fill level. The filter has to be filled, which takes some oil. And many thanks for your Videos. Dieter
A small piece of sand paper wrapped around helps grip the new oil filter when giving that last turn 👌🏻
Can’t wait for the season to start again for some full length episodes 👍🏻
Top tip, measure your dipstick. Put it next to your oil extractor pump pipe and mark it with a sharpie or wrap in electric tape you know then how deep you are. Saves doing the dipping up and down with the pipe.
That's some solid advice
Always prime the filter!
Once primed, tip the excess out, a lot will stay in the filter and will save those engine components!
Or.....not as good but easier....after refitting the filter, crank the engine over for 10-15seconds (not longer otherwise you'll suck sea water back through the exhaust) whilst holding the fuel pump governor arm in to stop the engine starting. This will build oil pressure and re-fill the filter without letting the engine start.
Love the videos though :)
I have a smaller Volvo diesel on my sailboat and a friend showed me how much easier it is to extract the old oil directly from the tube that extends up from the bottom of the sump. It’s the one with the black cap that is just to the left of and below the oil filter. If you have a hose that fits snugly over the end of this tube, it’s a breeze and you know you’ll be draining from the bottom of the sump as opposed to fishing a small tube in through the dipstick opening and guessing about effectively reaching the bottom…. Engine is really purring like a kitten btw 👍
I was going to say, I have the D2 55 and it has a special extracting tube (Black plastic cap) below the fuel primer pump that is where you should extract from on this engine.
Miss the stars
The weather is improving and it’s nearly time to leave again, which means they’ll be back, not too much more of me to put up with 😂😇
Also remember if you are in doubt its always better to run a little low than a little high oil. A quart low the pickup will still pump oil, everything will be fine, running a quart high you can get into crankshaft splashing, this will foam the oil, the foamed oil will now be pumped through the motor, this will lead to higher friction, higher oil temps and faster breakdown of the oil.
Nice clean engine, great care! Aloha from Maui 🤙
One more comment, that applies to all O-rings or flat round rubber gaskets: after teightening the filter housing in your case, turn it in reverse 2-3mm to take off the mechanical shear "stress" on the rubber. Your boat will be thankful. Good luck.
Hi, remember the first oil change you did , your such a PRO now , next year a pit stop in under 4 seconds and that includes the 4 wheels , ok 2 sails .😉
Thank you for posting!
You forgot one vital part! Hank!! All videos must include Hank!!
As an ex diesel mechanic, you have missed an important step in the process. That is checking the sump drain plug which has a magnet attached. This will show if any part of the internal parts are shedding metal. Unlikely on a well maintained engine but still vital to detect wear on highly stressed parts.
And I suppose you just unbolt the hull to get to the sump plug lol
That is true but not all marine engines have that magnet because it's extremely difficult to get to the sump on some (mine is dinffcult to get a finger on, let alone a socket). I pump my oil out through a funnel into a waste bottle. So I tape a magnet to the outside of the funnel so I can see any sparkly bits that stick to it. So far I have yet to see more than 3 or 4 bits of man glitter in an oil change. Not bad for a 43 year old engine
Try to place a magnet in the drained oil, that way you will see any abrasion in your engine. Just a thought!
Fill up to dipstick full, then start. It will fill up you filter and be perfect on level.
Dom, that inlet air filter needs a change too!
Nice movie
Absolutely superb videos guys. You have had hooked. As a couple looking to adventure into sailing in the very near future, your videos are amazing. We love that we can see everything end to end including the maintenance of things and we will certainly be using your anchorage guide on your website. PLEASE keep these going. ❤
FWIW I suspect the 0.5l is pretty much left in the engine as that 10.5l figure is for a new dry block. Certainly if you didn't do the little wiggle bit with the pipe it would be. Also you could measure what you take out and I bet it's not 10.5l. PS. Don't forget more Hank based videos too!
Make sure you check the exhaust elbow every couple of years Dom. Naff cast iron design on a D2-55, which can easily soot-up, hold water over winter and then cause expensive problems for your heat exchanger. Cost me over 4k for a new one 😡. Duralac on the gasket when it goes back.
Lithiums still rocking it btw 👍🏻
Doesn't need filter primed if you run it, change the oil, and run it again right away because the engine stays lubed from the warm up run. Probably doesn't need it anyway but ... I always check the dipstick after the post run and leak check and let it settle because it has to fill the filter and that takes a bit of volume. So run, change, run....wait 5 min for oil to settle back down in the pan then check and fill to level on the dipstick.
Fuel filters and bleed next?
Hi mate. What size tube fits down the dipstick. Not on my boat atm. But I suspect it’s a small diameter one! Cheers
Hi Carly and Dom. We're soon to be boat owners and need to build our tool kit. If you have any suggestions for "my first boat tool kit" we'd love to hear them. Faye and Rob.
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Riveting stuff mate. At least show hank, he’s worth watching 😂..
So how much do marine mechanics charge for this job? And since they can work anywhere a boat is, are most of them mobile or does each marina usually have a company or guy they work with?
Hey there. I think it cost us around £400 to have an official Volvo penta technician service the engine for us when we first bought the boat.
Now it costs about £100 in materials and a couple of hours of my time. 😊
How often do you change oil? :)
Once a year so far.
If all else is lost, just skewer the filter with a screwdriver and twist....
Do you have to top up your engine oil over the course of the year ?
Not especially, although towards the end of last season I did top up a tiny amount, literally like 0.1 of a litre I think. Why doing you ask?
@@CadohaAdventures mainly curiosity , I've had 4 diesel engine cars one of them used about a litre of oil in tops ups between oil changes , the other three never needed topping up .
Engine looks very clean
I need tutorial how to change piston rings in 15 minutes.
Little disappointed. You're done this before.
You procedure is going to screw a good number of people over and create one hell of a mess in their boats. Pull the oil out of the engine first then remove the filter and care on with the normal change.
I have change the oil on hundreds and hundreds of boats, so for those of you who just follow along on his procedure you will likely ask the boatyard to assist in cleaning the mess inside your boat
Why will it cause a mess? It didn’t make a mess in ours? 🤷🏼♂️
@@CadohaAdventures that is your boat. So many others if you remove the oil filter first the oil pours out and there is your mess. So many marine techs know to remove the oil first then the filter but removing the oil out the dip stick and using a 1 gal plastic bag when removing the filter so not even a drop can land in the bilge.
There are even some boats that once the oil is removed the filters are still full and if they are horizontal … mess. You have to know what you are doing and what to do with your engine.
@@eddieohearn17 Ahh I'm with you now, thank you for taking the time to clarify that with me, and all of us. 👍🏽
@@CadohaAdventures I always recommend that yachtsmen talk to the yard guys, ask us any question and you will get an answer and a story of what you are asking about gone wrong. I had a guy order 300ft of stainless chain for his boat. When it arrived it did not work in his windlass. I asked him what brand he had on the boat. He told me, then I told him see if you can return the chain if not see if you can sell the chain, if not you might just have to give it away because it will never work in that make. You should have talked one of us and would have told you to order the chain only from that maker. He ended up giving the chain away and ordering the new from the windlass maker.
Ask the yard guys questions is my point and it will always be helpful