Zhiyun are having a Christmas sale, so if you need lights or a gimbal, now's the time! Molus G300 Light: store.zhiyun-tech.com/products/molus-g300?ref=R_jHbCqXt-J5cM 🔦 Crane 4 Gimbal: store.zhiyun-tech.com/products/crane-4?ref=R_jHbCqXt-J5cM&variant=42300739322036 🏗
Some of the Fuji X recipes specifically call for shooting at as high an iso as possible to attain that "textured" look he describes, I love grain/noise on black and white
I remember a concert I shot... It was one of my first times. It was a dark club, with pretty bad lightning. I used my second hand Nikon D5300 with the kit and a telephoto lens. I spend the whole 3-4 hours (there were a few bands) between 8000 to 12800 ISO. In those conditions, I shot some of my best shots, some that still leave me amazed every time I come across them in my computer. They did require some very good editing (and I edited all of them in B&W, so that helped). But that showed me that I shouldn't be afraid to pump up the ISO. Plus, the noise looked like grain, so, that was a plus. At some point, the camera even shut down due to overheating. I had SO much fun.
“ISO isn’t a technical constraint it’s a creative tool” 6:44 - This sentence might have just changed my life. I’ve never thought about it like this. We’re taught to only really use Aperture and Shutter Speed to achieve the image we desire and keep the ISO as low as possible just to add film grain after l, when we can essentially do that with digital noise. I’ve always loved low light shots I’ve taken with higher ISO because of the noise but seldomly shoot that way when I have ample light. Amazing video!
TOTALLY AGREE WITH THIS!!! I used to delete any photo that I saw as not sharp enough and that left a good amount of nice shots to just be gone to never be edited or uploaded. Now that I've stopped caring about getting the highest quality shots I can at all times and started caring more about the actual moment I capture, I feel like I've gotten significantly more open to trying things that I would've never done before, and that's worked out great!
I guess your quote on the video "How To Be FASTER Than Autofocus" can also be applied here: "Photography is rife with gatekeeping and an insane amount of technical speak that doesn't mean anything to real human beings". I'm a beginner and I've been doing a bunch of research and have not come across a single person mentioning that ISO is just a tool and could be used creatively. Most even oversimplify ISO, saying it changes the sensor's sensitivity to light when it doesn't (which apparently was true for film in film cameras, but not modern cameras, don't quote me on that). You gave me some cool ideas. I had never thought of using ISO creatively, the same way guitarists use gain (ISO) and distortion (noise). Thanks!
Huge agree! Any ISO up to 1600 is basically clean, and 3200-6400 is mostly just a little grittier with minimally reduced dynamic range. A general rule of thumb I've found across multiple cameras/brands, whatever your camera's highest ISO is, 2-stops down will probably be the best value for auto-ISO. Manually select higher if needed. At night, I use f5.6 almost exclusively, 1/15-1/125, auto-ISO 6400. If metering says it's still under-exposed, I'm not close enough.
This kind of depends on the camera for me, but I tend to shoot my Zf at 800 ISO and my Z8 at 500 ISO as a starting point. From there, the Zf is really incredible at high ISO, the Z8 less so.
Genuinely, just today I've taken a few shots that would be nice if they wouldn't all come out blurry because I left my camera on ISO 1600. What a timing!
It all depends on the camera you use. I got a old canon 500D. Budget dslr from 2009. If you crank the iso. Picture gets purple noise. And a lot if it. The sensor needs a minimum amount of light per ISO setting to have sufficient light to noise ratio to get rid of purple noise. Like shooting with 12600 ISO is only possible if it is already bright. The reason why we fear ISO is because if older cameras literally being uncapable of it. And when you pushed the limits it always ended up in beyond insane amount of colored noise. Which is way worse than just grainy noise we got today. Loads of high end modern cameras handle it with no problem. Old cameras. Not so much.
Yeah, budget cameras from two decades ago are harder - These days you can pick up a really great full frame dslr like a Nikon D610 or a Canon 5D mark 2 for pocket change compared to new cameras, so I think it's fair to assume that as a baseline for performance
I recently shot a building demolition with an ancient D100 which has readily apparent noise even at base ISO and had more fun than I expected. The noise played very well with the rough imagery, also in some monochrome animal portraits I took on another occasion (I did have to tame the noise down a bit in post there, however). The end result somewhat reminded me of the very contrasty photographs sometimes seen in 1960s illustrated books. No comparison to the squeaky clean imagery put out by modern cameras.
Oh my, oh my. Couple days ago I went for a walk at night (like 6pm) and I was thinking exactly about iso. As I’m shooting while walking I needed at least 1/250s shutter speed so I increased upper limit of auto iso to 6400, from usual 3200, and I did it feeling uncomfortable. Now I think I’ll go up to 12800 👌 Thanks, awesome video as always!
Makes me somehow more relieved not to worry about ISO, yes... But also the numbers next too the "thumbs up" button will not align and makes me question my sanity a bit.
I spent years on a rebel t7 and learned that a shot with high iso is better than no shot at all. Also social media compresses the ABSOLUTE EFF out of any shot you get, so ISO doesn't matter for that application whatsoever. After using an r6mkii + high end rf glass, 12k+ iso is fine. Only pixel peepers notice the grain (and that's just my photographer friends 😂)
I’m here for the cinematic theatrics 🤩 I’m in to this sort of things. The film camera on a gimbal? ✨ 😂 Seriously speaking, I tend to leave my ISO dial on auto, it’s fine haha
My Zf taught me this. Shooting manual and rolling the dials without leaving the viewfinder. Get an amazing shot, great settings, and WOW my ISO is above 10K. Noticed I'd second guess after seeing the dial and turn it down. Edit: My favourite in camera noise is from my D700, apparently it's because the noise is monochromatic.
Oh man how good. Been sticking to max 3200 on my new everyday carry camera but on my old Fuji I’ll let that baby crank and just get the shot. Great video
artificially boosting a signal (iso is just signal gain) increases all aspects of the signal perceived by the sensor; SNR (signal to noise ratio) is the make or break parameter that defines how much gain you can get away with before noise is indiscernible from your signal - on my canon t6i thats about 800 iso before the noise intensity levels in the R and G channels are about the same as what the rest of the image has manufacturing processes have come a very very long way from the 2010s (layout of the sensor IC and photoreceptor wells and adjacent circuitry has benefited massively with smaller processing node sizes i.e 3nm vs 7nm, smaller die connections reduce signal latency and theres less cross interference between adjacent pixel wells - the hw has gotten more power to run better algorithms to denoise pixel by pixel vs grid by grid) - youre highly dependent on modern technology in order to be able to get away with shooting at higher iso's, so its pretty misleading to say "high iso is good", it isnt a universal statement especially if older dslrs are still commonplace there is also the dependency on paid software to denoise - have you tried darktable to denoise? all in all, on an instagram upload it doesnt make a difference, it does matter if you attempt to print your photos and are interested in enlarging them
my reference camera for these opinions is my nikon from 11 years ago so I don't think that it's unreasonable. I meet loads of photographers all the time and 99% of them are using a newer camera than me. Yes, you have to pay for denoising software - just like you have to pay for developer and fixer. I've taken shots at iso 12800 on the D750 that I've printed A0 size and they've come out great :)
What? Were you hanging out with me last night and I forgot about it? I was out in the fog at night, and I just let Auto ISO have its way with me. I was up around 6000 most of the time, and it was mostly fine. I kept the shutter pegged at 250. I was bouncing between 2.8 and 8 aperture. But 12800? Whoa!!! :)
ISO invariance, most cameras now have this. Understand what it is and how you can use can help loads. Also, most newer modern cameras have two stages of controlling ISO... in it's most basic terms you have the first stage which is an analogue signal (light) converted to digital, and then a second converter kicks in if you boost past the limits of the first converter (digital to digital). If you're pushing high ISO's, it's often better to shoot using the second converter, rather than up to the limits of the first. I saw a video here on YT recently (I forget who posted it), showing how much cleaner the signal is if you use your ISO correctly at higher settings and how it can yield better results. Of course, it's about understanding what your camera can and cannot do too. And let's be honest, most content is viewed on small screens now anyway, so does it really matter if it's noisy?
When i use over 5000 iso my photos look like a rainbow 😍 But in all seriousness though, I will take this into consideration. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
Yeah, I literally never worry about noise. If it's dark enough that you're getting lots of noise even shooting as wide open and as slow a shutter as you can handle, then the noise is probably thematically consistent!
Me when I first started photography. "MUST KEEP AT 100 MANY PROS ON UA-cam TOLD ME TO". Me now (using auto) : "oh I've been shooting at ISO 12800 the the past half an hour... anyway". When I shoot stuff for clients I try my best to keep it low but when I shoot for art idc, as someone that does street photography, I'm more interested in if I got a good moment or not regardless of ISO/noise
To be fair my old lumix really does start to look mushy beyond 1600 and the color is completely unusable beyond 3200. The color noise makes it really ugly and while black and white can be a solution, sometimes I would like to render the colors, especially at night when there is beautiful city light.
Ah yeah MFT sensors are tricky, especially the older ones - but I like to think of them like shooting super 16 film since they're a similar size, and embrace the imperfections :)
@@huntercreatesthings Well it's what I could afford lol but to be fair I have fallen in love with the lumix system and probably will upgrade to a GH model whenever I have the money for it. It is gonna be a familiar interface, will be portable and won't have to buy all new adapters for my myriad of third party and vintage lenses lol. Incidentally I am struggling to find a good wide angle for it - at a low price that is. The default lens for the G7, the G Vario, is a decent zoom that goes down to 14mm (well 28 equivalent I guess), but it has little to no personality and I just don't like the fully electronic aperture. I like manual lenses, being able to control the aperture with my hands just feels so much better than with buttons.
I used to feel that image editing wasn't "photography". Now I feel that there are at least two kinds of photography. Film photography and digital photography are just two examples. I still use my digital cameras like they're film, but I edit them with a freedom the digital medium brings (not a "light room" guy, because Darktable = cost to use matrix win) .. Film, to me is "film" .. it has a look, feel, and excitement to see what you shot after the shoot .. I "chimp" way too often with digital, but .. I can so I do :) ..
Frankly speaking, I thought that since I don't have a Sony camera I cannot do any night time photography 😅 Now, I think that Olympus em 10 mark II won't perform all that great at night time just because it's sensor is so damn small. But maybe I might be able to get something nice with Canon R...And yeah, these are the two cameras that I have right now. Thank you for this video and prompting me to step out of my comfort zone 😄
so many people said my pentax k3 iso 12800-51200 is useless because at over 1600 noise make the picture worrst but who care about that alot of time I shot at 3200-25600
hi mate, isos are my main cerebral exercise at the moment. Do you ETTR for street photography ? In post traitement how do you manage noise reduction options ? thanks for your time
during the day I just let auto iso do whatever it likes at -0.3 exposure comp, at night I ettr and try to ignore clipping highlights as much as possible. Most of the time I leave noise in, but if I do want to do NR, I use either Adobe's AI noise reduction, or DXO's AI alternative.
As someone shooting digital since 2003 (im in my 40s now) we came up with misconception however it was basically true back then. However I think it just kept on repeating and is now a urban legend for photography. You're right. High iso is ok now. I useit upto 6400 and if I need to noise reduction software is amazing! Good video!
2 дні тому
I agree with the premise that not all shots need to be taken at base ISO, but... Your general approach to night photography seems to be odd (at least how you explain it in this video). If I was in a pitch black field and wanted to take a photo of a tree at night, I wouldn't just crank my ISO until the tree was visible. Night photography is about finding pockets of light and using negative space (which should be pitch black). The only reason you would need to increase your ISO to 12800 is if you're trying to capture a scene that has no practical lighting. If there is even a single lightbulb in the scene, you should expose for that light source. My point is, camera settings for day and night scenes aren't that different unless there is absolutely no direct light in the frame (like the tree in the field example). Also, with regards to aperture, personally, I find that at night I don't need as much DOF, as I will usually be focusing further away (increasing the DOF) and using the negative space to frame the lit part of the scene. ISO should always be the last thing you increase, and if you do, you should probably question if the scene is simply too dark.
Well, this is a topic du jour now ain’t it? Should we thank Gerald for that or curse him? One thing is true - if you don’t have much “signal” coming through the lens then increasing ISO will amplify the weak signal along with the noise floor of the sensor. So, the more signal the less apparent noise. Is noise “bad?” Nope, and as you say it’s much less obvious than ever before. My opinion? Every photographer should do their own testing so they know what’s acceptable for them. Your use case sounds like the old “f8 and be there” school of photojournalism. My opinion? Use all your exposure settings based on the story you are trying to tell. Smearing the motion could be the key to a photos success - or shooting the shallowest depth of field may help obscure an unrelated background - or picking a noisy ISO may give you the grit your photo really needs. Photography is about choices. My guess is one exposure control is most important to the story you are trying to tell than the other two. Set that control first then wrestle the other two controls into a compromise you can live with. Finally, if you really want to see what’s happening in your photo - for god’s sake - do not “load it your phone” to check it out. View it on a larger high resolution monitor.
Shout-out to that time I was taking photos in the subway and a dude recognized he had the same 20yo camera as me (Canon 5D mki) and asked me how I was taking photos in such a light deprived place. Which eventually led to talking about how he never shoots above ISO200 because of the noise. I took my phone and showed him all the photos I've taken with the 5D at ISO3200 and the dude was in disbelief of just how not absolutely noisey they were. Ftr, ISO3200 is the highest extended ISO of the 5D mki. I'd shoot it at 6400 if I could tho.
spoon mic🤣 contradictionary photographers making artificial noise like fim photography when they editting. it's almost same thing taking pic with film if you re using full frame digital camera. so just let camera control your light balance. you just need to focus on taking pic with nice compsition, frame, message and atmosphere. your pictures already started from u got specific brand's camera. deal your pic with your mind
Yeah I don’t think I agree with what you’re saying. You don’t show any good examples of high noise photos that are good and you mention that the slow shutter will make your photo blurry and shooting wide open will give you a very shallow DOF but these both can be mitigated by distance to subject and stabilising your shots, ISO on the other hand will introduce horrible noise in the shadows if they are unlit. My suggestion? If you are using a sony camera you can set the auto minimum iso to be faster or slower and go from there if you think your camera’s exposure meter is “wrong”. Good luck.
Zhiyun are having a Christmas sale, so if you need lights or a gimbal, now's the time!
Molus G300 Light: store.zhiyun-tech.com/products/molus-g300?ref=R_jHbCqXt-J5cM 🔦
Crane 4 Gimbal: store.zhiyun-tech.com/products/crane-4?ref=R_jHbCqXt-J5cM&variant=42300739322036 🏗
I have on many occasions put my ear to a photograph yet heard no noise.
I am Team 12800. Fujifilm’s Acros film simulation is my secret weapon. That digital noise looks like delicious grain.
Some of the Fuji X recipes specifically call for shooting at as high an iso as possible to attain that "textured" look he describes, I love grain/noise on black and white
@ that’s true. I have intentionally shot at high ISO, including 12800, specifically for that look (only in black & white though).
I remember a concert I shot... It was one of my first times. It was a dark club, with pretty bad lightning.
I used my second hand Nikon D5300 with the kit and a telephoto lens. I spend the whole 3-4 hours (there were a few bands) between 8000 to 12800 ISO.
In those conditions, I shot some of my best shots, some that still leave me amazed every time I come across them in my computer.
They did require some very good editing (and I edited all of them in B&W, so that helped). But that showed me that I shouldn't be afraid to pump up the ISO. Plus, the noise looked like grain, so, that was a plus.
At some point, the camera even shut down due to overheating.
I had SO much fun.
“ISO isn’t a technical constraint it’s a creative tool” 6:44 - This sentence might have just changed my life. I’ve never thought about it like this.
We’re taught to only really use Aperture and Shutter Speed to achieve the image we desire and keep the ISO as low as possible just to add film grain after l, when we can essentially do that with digital noise.
I’ve always loved low light shots I’ve taken with higher ISO because of the noise but seldomly shoot that way when I have ample light. Amazing video!
Thank you!
TOTALLY AGREE WITH THIS!!! I used to delete any photo that I saw as not sharp enough and that left a good amount of nice shots to just be gone to never be edited or uploaded. Now that I've stopped caring about getting the highest quality shots I can at all times and started caring more about the actual moment I capture, I feel like I've gotten significantly more open to trying things that I would've never done before, and that's worked out great!
Absolutely!!
Traditional: ISO depends on light
Advanced modern: ISO depends on light (more efficiently)
Bang on
I guess your quote on the video "How To Be FASTER Than Autofocus" can also be applied here: "Photography is rife with gatekeeping and an insane amount of technical speak that doesn't mean anything to real human beings".
I'm a beginner and I've been doing a bunch of research and have not come across a single person mentioning that ISO is just a tool and could be used creatively. Most even oversimplify ISO, saying it changes the sensor's sensitivity to light when it doesn't (which apparently was true for film in film cameras, but not modern cameras, don't quote me on that).
You gave me some cool ideas. I had never thought of using ISO creatively, the same way guitarists use gain (ISO) and distortion (noise). Thanks!
Glad to hear it! The guitar comparison is very clever.
@huntercreatesthings I've yet to find a single thing in photography that I can't relate to guitar in some way!
Huge agree!
Any ISO up to 1600 is basically clean, and 3200-6400 is mostly just a little
grittier with minimally reduced dynamic range.
A general rule of thumb I've found across multiple cameras/brands, whatever
your camera's highest ISO is, 2-stops down will probably be the best value
for auto-ISO. Manually select higher if needed.
At night, I use f5.6 almost exclusively, 1/15-1/125, auto-ISO 6400.
If metering says it's still under-exposed, I'm not close enough.
The problem I have with high ISO are the *UGLY* green and purple patches that start showing up
This kind of depends on the camera for me, but I tend to shoot my Zf at 800 ISO and my Z8 at 500 ISO as a starting point. From there, the Zf is really incredible at high ISO, the Z8 less so.
Genuinely, just today I've taken a few shots that would be nice if they wouldn't all come out blurry because I left my camera on ISO 1600. What a timing!
It all depends on the camera you use. I got a old canon 500D. Budget dslr from 2009. If you crank the iso. Picture gets purple noise. And a lot if it. The sensor needs a minimum amount of light per ISO setting to have sufficient light to noise ratio to get rid of purple noise. Like shooting with 12600 ISO is only possible if it is already bright. The reason why we fear ISO is because if older cameras literally being uncapable of it. And when you pushed the limits it always ended up in beyond insane amount of colored noise. Which is way worse than just grainy noise we got today.
Loads of high end modern cameras handle it with no problem. Old cameras. Not so much.
Yeah, budget cameras from two decades ago are harder - These days you can pick up a really great full frame dslr like a Nikon D610 or a Canon 5D mark 2 for pocket change compared to new cameras, so I think it's fair to assume that as a baseline for performance
I recently shot a building demolition with an ancient D100 which has readily apparent noise even at base ISO and had more fun than I expected. The noise played very well with the rough imagery, also in some monochrome animal portraits I took on another occasion (I did have to tame the noise down a bit in post there, however). The end result somewhat reminded me of the very contrasty photographs sometimes seen in 1960s illustrated books. No comparison to the squeaky clean imagery put out by modern cameras.
Oh my, oh my. Couple days ago I went for a walk at night (like 6pm) and I was thinking exactly about iso. As I’m shooting while walking I needed at least 1/250s shutter speed so I increased upper limit of auto iso to 6400, from usual 3200, and I did it feeling uncomfortable. Now I think I’ll go up to 12800 👌
Thanks, awesome video as always!
Around 5:30 or so when you talked about auto ISO, I just felt the brain pop. Ohhhhh. That makes so much sense.
Makes me somehow more relieved not to worry about ISO, yes...
But also the numbers next too the "thumbs up" button will
not align and makes me question my sanity a bit.
i love your humour
I spent years on a rebel t7 and learned that a shot with high iso is better than no shot at all. Also social media compresses the ABSOLUTE EFF out of any shot you get, so ISO doesn't matter for that application whatsoever. After using an r6mkii + high end rf glass, 12k+ iso is fine. Only pixel peepers notice the grain (and that's just my photographer friends 😂)
I’m here for the cinematic theatrics 🤩 I’m in to this sort of things. The film camera on a gimbal? ✨ 😂
Seriously speaking, I tend to leave my ISO dial on auto, it’s fine haha
My Zf taught me this. Shooting manual and rolling the dials without leaving the viewfinder. Get an amazing shot, great settings, and WOW my ISO is above 10K. Noticed I'd second guess after seeing the dial and turn it down. Edit: My favourite in camera noise is from my D700, apparently it's because the noise is monochromatic.
Oh man how good. Been sticking to max 3200 on my new everyday carry camera but on my old Fuji I’ll let that baby crank and just get the shot. Great video
3d pop psychosis is realer than people think
Really depends on your equipment, using a smartphone in raw and going well past 1000 iso will slowly make your pictures unusuable
if you are using something designed to make phone calls your results may be unsatisfactory
Yup just did a video on using auto ISO and about its not the ISO is necessarily the problem. It's mostly the other settings.
I love the spoon mic
artificially boosting a signal (iso is just signal gain) increases all aspects of the signal perceived by the sensor; SNR (signal to noise ratio) is the make or break parameter that defines how much gain you can get away with before noise is indiscernible from your signal - on my canon t6i thats about 800 iso before the noise intensity levels in the R and G channels are about the same as what the rest of the image has
manufacturing processes have come a very very long way from the 2010s (layout of the sensor IC and photoreceptor wells and adjacent circuitry has benefited massively with smaller processing node sizes i.e 3nm vs 7nm, smaller die connections reduce signal latency and theres less cross interference between adjacent pixel wells - the hw has gotten more power to run better algorithms to denoise pixel by pixel vs grid by grid) - youre highly dependent on modern technology in order to be able to get away with shooting at higher iso's, so its pretty misleading to say "high iso is good", it isnt a universal statement especially if older dslrs are still commonplace
there is also the dependency on paid software to denoise - have you tried darktable to denoise?
all in all, on an instagram upload it doesnt make a difference, it does matter if you attempt to print your photos and are interested in enlarging them
my reference camera for these opinions is my nikon from 11 years ago so I don't think that it's unreasonable. I meet loads of photographers all the time and 99% of them are using a newer camera than me.
Yes, you have to pay for denoising software - just like you have to pay for developer and fixer.
I've taken shots at iso 12800 on the D750 that I've printed A0 size and they've come out great :)
Even with my old DSLR, I run Auto-ISO and only really tweak the minimum setting if the shutter or aperture starts limiting what I want to shoot.
Yeah 100% - I use auto iso most of the time and just keep an eye to make sure I'm not clipping either way
Or get a Sony a7s and bump the ISO speed up to 409600 :D
What? Were you hanging out with me last night and I forgot about it? I was out in the fog at night, and I just let Auto ISO have its way with me. I was up around 6000 most of the time, and it was mostly fine. I kept the shutter pegged at 250. I was bouncing between 2.8 and 8 aperture.
But 12800? Whoa!!! :)
You'll be shocked at how usable it is if you expose to the right!
Excellent Video, Thank for sharing your thoughts !
ISO invariance, most cameras now have this. Understand what it is and how you can use can help loads. Also, most newer modern cameras have two stages of controlling ISO... in it's most basic terms you have the first stage which is an analogue signal (light) converted to digital, and then a second converter kicks in if you boost past the limits of the first converter (digital to digital). If you're pushing high ISO's, it's often better to shoot using the second converter, rather than up to the limits of the first. I saw a video here on YT recently (I forget who posted it), showing how much cleaner the signal is if you use your ISO correctly at higher settings and how it can yield better results. Of course, it's about understanding what your camera can and cannot do too. And let's be honest, most content is viewed on small screens now anyway, so does it really matter if it's noisy?
When i use over 5000 iso my photos look like a rainbow 😍
But in all seriousness though, I will take this into consideration. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
This is Gold! I love it.
I like my photos how I like my beats NOISY 🔉
Big dirty stinkin beats
@@huntercreatesthingsbig beats are the best get high all the time
So are you saying
Increase iso as needed?
Yeah, I literally never worry about noise. If it's dark enough that you're getting lots of noise even shooting as wide open and as slow a shutter as you can handle, then the noise is probably thematically consistent!
@@huntercreatesthings makes sense. Great content!
Me when I first started photography. "MUST KEEP AT 100 MANY PROS ON UA-cam TOLD ME TO". Me now (using auto) : "oh I've been shooting at ISO 12800 the the past half an hour... anyway".
When I shoot stuff for clients I try my best to keep it low but when I shoot for art idc, as someone that does street photography, I'm more interested in if I got a good moment or not regardless of ISO/noise
To be fair my old lumix really does start to look mushy beyond 1600 and the color is completely unusable beyond 3200. The color noise makes it really ugly and while black and white can be a solution, sometimes I would like to render the colors, especially at night when there is beautiful city light.
Ah yeah MFT sensors are tricky, especially the older ones - but I like to think of them like shooting super 16 film since they're a similar size, and embrace the imperfections :)
@@huntercreatesthings Well it's what I could afford lol but to be fair I have fallen in love with the lumix system and probably will upgrade to a GH model whenever I have the money for it. It is gonna be a familiar interface, will be portable and won't have to buy all new adapters for my myriad of third party and vintage lenses lol.
Incidentally I am struggling to find a good wide angle for it - at a low price that is. The default lens for the G7, the G Vario, is a decent zoom that goes down to 14mm (well 28 equivalent I guess), but it has little to no personality and I just don't like the fully electronic aperture. I like manual lenses, being able to control the aperture with my hands just feels so much better than with buttons.
I would rather get the shot and have a little more noise than I envisioned than not getting the shot at all^^
I used to feel that image editing wasn't "photography". Now I feel that there are at least two kinds of photography. Film photography and digital photography are just two examples. I still use my digital cameras like they're film, but I edit them with a freedom the digital medium brings (not a "light room" guy, because Darktable = cost to use matrix win) .. Film, to me is "film" .. it has a look, feel, and excitement to see what you shot after the shoot .. I "chimp" way too often with digital, but .. I can so I do :) ..
Frankly speaking, I thought that since I don't have a Sony camera I cannot do any night time photography 😅
Now, I think that Olympus em 10 mark II won't perform all that great at night time just because it's sensor is so damn small. But maybe I might be able to get something nice with Canon R...And yeah, these are the two cameras that I have right now.
Thank you for this video and prompting me to step out of my comfort zone 😄
Sony low light is good but you can most definitely get great results out of any system! Bigger sensors do help though
so many people said my pentax k3 iso 12800-51200 is useless because at over 1600 noise make the picture worrst but who care about that alot of time I shot at 3200-25600
Very good video.
hi mate, isos are my main cerebral exercise at the moment. Do you ETTR for street photography ? In post traitement how do you manage noise reduction options ? thanks for your time
during the day I just let auto iso do whatever it likes at -0.3 exposure comp, at night I ettr and try to ignore clipping highlights as much as possible. Most of the time I leave noise in, but if I do want to do NR, I use either Adobe's AI noise reduction, or DXO's AI alternative.
Should have said Leicanthropy.
Dammit!!
3d pop psychosis? Is that what Casey has?
As someone shooting digital since 2003 (im in my 40s now) we came up with misconception however it was basically true back then. However I think it just kept on repeating and is now a urban legend for photography. You're right. High iso is ok now. I useit upto 6400 and if I need to noise reduction software is amazing! Good video!
I agree with the premise that not all shots need to be taken at base ISO, but... Your general approach to night photography seems to be odd (at least how you explain it in this video). If I was in a pitch black field and wanted to take a photo of a tree at night, I wouldn't just crank my ISO until the tree was visible. Night photography is about finding pockets of light and using negative space (which should be pitch black).
The only reason you would need to increase your ISO to 12800 is if you're trying to capture a scene that has no practical lighting. If there is even a single lightbulb in the scene, you should expose for that light source. My point is, camera settings for day and night scenes aren't that different unless there is absolutely no direct light in the frame (like the tree in the field example).
Also, with regards to aperture, personally, I find that at night I don't need as much DOF, as I will usually be focusing further away (increasing the DOF) and using the negative space to frame the lit part of the scene. ISO should always be the last thing you increase, and if you do, you should probably question if the scene is simply too dark.
Where's the link to the video you mentioned at the end?
Should show up as a card on screen - works from my end, but you can also find it here: ua-cam.com/video/pXDd3UPpZVI/v-deo.htmlsi=rrz5CbMKuA7oGpbr
sometimes break the rules and make your own style
Just like souljaboy, crank Dat.
So if you like noise, add noise. Got it.
Agreed
man you're goat
I love noise 😅
Well, this is a topic du jour now ain’t it? Should we thank Gerald for that or curse him? One thing is true - if you don’t have much “signal” coming through the lens then increasing ISO will amplify the weak signal along with the noise floor of the sensor. So, the more signal the less apparent noise. Is noise “bad?” Nope, and as you say it’s much less obvious than ever before.
My opinion? Every photographer should do their own testing so they know what’s acceptable for them. Your use case sounds like the old “f8 and be there” school of photojournalism. My opinion? Use all your exposure settings based on the story you are trying to tell. Smearing the motion could be the key to a photos success - or shooting the shallowest depth of field may help obscure an unrelated background - or picking a noisy ISO may give you the grit your photo really needs.
Photography is about choices. My guess is one exposure control is most important to the story you are trying to tell than the other two. Set that control first then wrestle the other two controls into a compromise you can live with.
Finally, if you really want to see what’s happening in your photo - for god’s sake - do not “load it your phone” to check it out. View it on a larger high resolution monitor.
F8 and Be There has been a core technique of mine for years hahaha!
Ektar 100 : ???
Should I push Ektar 3 stops next?
auto-ISO kids
I use auto ISO 80% of the time
Shout-out to that time I was taking photos in the subway and a dude recognized he had the same 20yo camera as me (Canon 5D mki) and asked me how I was taking photos in such a light deprived place. Which eventually led to talking about how he never shoots above ISO200 because of the noise.
I took my phone and showed him all the photos I've taken with the 5D at ISO3200 and the dude was in disbelief of just how not absolutely noisey they were.
Ftr, ISO3200 is the highest extended ISO of the 5D mki. I'd shoot it at 6400 if I could tho.
spoon mic🤣 contradictionary photographers making artificial noise like fim photography when they editting. it's almost same thing taking pic with film if you re using full frame digital camera. so just let camera control your light balance. you just need to focus on taking pic with nice compsition, frame, message and atmosphere. your pictures already started from u got specific brand's camera. deal your pic with your mind
Yeah I don’t think I agree with what you’re saying. You don’t show any good examples of high noise photos that are good and you mention that the slow shutter will make your photo blurry and shooting wide open will give you a very shallow DOF but these both can be mitigated by distance to subject and stabilising your shots, ISO on the other hand will introduce horrible noise in the shadows if they are unlit. My suggestion? If you are using a sony camera you can set the auto minimum iso to be faster or slower and go from there if you think your camera’s exposure meter is “wrong”. Good luck.
almost all the photos in this video are shot at 12,800
i think that's what he meant to say