If you sand the outer casing often where the clutch makes contact overkill isn’t the word for it! It’s called slowly manually wearing out your clutch as it would do on its own. I would recommend on light abrasions with fine sandpaper but only mild scuffing because this overkill will kill your pocketbook quicker then wearing the clutch down under above normal use. You’ll have to trust me on this as I was a certified machanic from 1978 until 2001 and my late father-in-law had a heavy equipment shop on big Hysters and small engine repair at his shop that I helped my brother in law with many times on days and weekends I could. He became a Harley Davidson repair guy mainly building up factory engines and adding much more HP his business is Red Line Cycles. Keep learning maybe you can do what my brother in law has and created a name large clientele and lots of cash doing something he loves doing. Just remember a jobs a job! But if you become a master at a job and enjoy doing it, it’s called a high paying hobby!
Depending on the situation , I've added a grease fitting in the end of the crank or crank bolt (drill it hollow) And drill a hole thru the crank and thru the clutch bushing. Voila ,add a light shot of grease in the crank end and leave disassembling and oiling clutches for the birds.
That bearing inside is an "Oilite" oil impregnated sleeve. Do not use grease- light oil is what is in it and will last longer than grease or Vaseline which clogs it up and dries out. As was mentioned in the comments- use sandpaper not a dremel. Mike
Impact driver worked well I remember i try useing hand tools. It was just rotating the engine. So when the time comes to replace the clutch ill use a impact.
nice video dude, but remember you don't want scrape the internal surface of the clutch and never use teflon or silicon based oil because they are anti friction oils always use tolian based oil.
Next time use sandpaper fine grits 600-800 with a bit more coarser grit on the weights. Also high temp grease way better in my opinion. Also instead of sanding your housing just get a stiff wire brush and scuff up the housing. This causes micro abrasions aka more grippy. 😂 before greasing but after scratching take iso alcohols and give a wipe this removes the oils and contaminants
Luke Chauvin in order to get a nice, racing level centrifugal clutch you gotta have at least $60. But yeah there is probably a difference in quality between a $20 and $40 clutch
Hey I would just remind you when you buy a new clutch you most likely have to oil it before putting it on I had this issue because I didnt read its description
I don't recommend taking your Dremel and sanding the inside out like that just some lights scoffing is all it will take I have even painted mine again and just some light sanding to make it rough and it will last twice as long what this young man is doing is right but it's wrong at the same time he will prematurely wear the clutch out. But they're pretty cheap anyways so to each their own.
He's on the right trail but a bit aggressive by using the dremel. My family races karts and we do this all the time. Use a scotch bright pad or sandpaper of 200 grit to remove clutch debris. Also, skip the alcohol and simply us break cleaner. Faster and gets in all the crevices. Check the pads for rough edges. They feel like tiny metal shards. For oiling, we only use light oils such as wd-40 or similar product. Any lubes on the contact surface will burn off in a few seconds.
@@droddy1972 please help me dude, my clutch is making squeaky noises and whenever I run my bike it gets extremely hot and I can feel the warmth by my legs. Besides the noises and heat it runs okay
Good I was disassembling my old clutch and I used the flathead technique as well but it flew at unimaginable speed past my left temple somewhere into the abyss I was lucky to have not lost my eye.
In my case it did. The cheap ebay clutches have crappy pads, so instead of creating a smooth surface, I need to makea rough surface for what was left of the shoe to grip. You dont need the lines, but I was going overkill on it. The strategie does work. I bough a nice clutch from GPS and it worked about the same.
It's like a 4 puck vs a 6 puck car clutch. The 4 puck will have more holding power on those 4 pads than if it was spread among 6,if spring pressure remains the same among both of them. But yes, it can wear faster now as more pressure is on 4 pucks vs 6.
@@crazykatana1297 the open end of the master link clip should not be going the direction the chain is traveling. Because if the clip hits something it will pop off
You can drill the crank bolt or crank end (depending on clutch mounting) and add a grease fitting. install the bushing part of the clutch and drill down into the crank. Clean off all the chips , assemble and give a shot of grease in the crank end. Haha if you're slick you can do it while it's running. It doesn't need but just a partial shot, initial fill should be done disassembled with the center piece on the crank so you don't overgrease it.
@@DTW-bx2vy I use high heat temp but it's Valvoline grease the red kind for cars. I think it's better then anything else don't have to worry about it melting away when it gets hot my clutch doesn't run hot like my last one did. But I should clean it and do a good lube job
Removing material inside clutch housing with a Dremel…not a good idea. You;re essentially shortening the life of the clutch by removing material with very abrasive high speed sanding. Use fine grit sandpaper and go over a couple times. That’s it. The clutch plates are already wearing down the housing. Don’t help it. Just my opinion.
@@ALIGHTFORTHEWORLD usually if you take the clutch bell off and put hi temp grease on the part where the bell rolls on the actual clutch part then it should stop it from grinding for a while
@@ALIGHTFORTHEWORLD because when my bike did this it would just grind super loud and immediately stall the engine, it was so bad when i started it that i couldn’t even ride it because it did it so quickly
Get good points for effort but you should not have used a dremel just some 80 grit sand paper and did it by hand you just destroyed your clutch it's only gonna last a short time bro nice try though
ehhh i mean yeah if i wanted this to last until the sun explodes i woulnt even mess with the inner contact parts of the clutch, but i just took if off the go kart and its still goin well
Good on you for taking the time to learn to maintain your equipment. Thanks for sharing
If you sand the outer casing often where the clutch makes contact overkill isn’t the word for it! It’s called slowly manually wearing out your clutch as it would do on its own. I would recommend on light abrasions with fine sandpaper but only mild scuffing because this overkill will kill your pocketbook quicker then wearing the clutch down under above normal use. You’ll have to trust me on this as I was a certified machanic from 1978 until 2001 and my late father-in-law had a heavy equipment shop on big Hysters and small engine repair at his shop that I helped my brother in law with many times on days and weekends I could. He became a Harley Davidson repair guy mainly building up factory engines and adding much more HP his business is Red Line Cycles. Keep learning maybe you can do what my brother in law has and created a name large clientele and lots of cash doing something he loves doing. Just remember a jobs a job! But if you become a master at a job and enjoy doing it, it’s called a high paying hobby!
totally agree, you don't want to loose hard material of your clutch. The touching parts of the clutch shouldn't be rough man.
gotcha man, as the time goes on im realizing you are more than correct lol
Except that u only do the scuffing like once or twice and a clutch is like 20 bucks so
Depending on the situation , I've added a grease fitting in the end of the crank or crank bolt (drill it hollow)
And drill a hole thru the crank and thru the clutch bushing.
Voila ,add a light shot of grease in the crank end and leave disassembling and oiling clutches for the birds.
that's it dude!! the oil or greasy stay there and lest longer isn't it?
damn, i gotta try that. ive moved to torque convertes because of the less maintainence
Nice touch holding the key with a hose clamp.
thanks man, hell of a lot cheaper than locking collars
You want to put the master link clip with the opening opposite of rotation, so if it snags something,, it won't come off.
i seen the same thing
That’s smart I’ve never thought of that
serious tip rite there!
That bearing inside is an "Oilite" oil impregnated sleeve.
Do not use grease- light oil is what is in it and will last longer than grease or Vaseline which clogs it up and dries out. As was mentioned in the comments- use sandpaper not a dremel. Mike
Impact driver worked well I remember i try useing hand tools. It was just rotating the engine. So when the time comes to replace the clutch ill use a impact.
thank a lot karting kid nice job on cleaning and oiling the clucth.
Can't believe how good this video was. Well done bud
thanks man!
nice video dude, but remember you don't want scrape the internal surface of the clutch and never use teflon or silicon based oil because they are anti friction oils always use tolian based oil.
Next time use sandpaper fine grits 600-800 with a bit more coarser grit on the weights. Also high temp grease way better in my opinion. Also instead of sanding your housing just get a stiff wire brush and scuff up the housing. This causes micro abrasions aka more grippy. 😂 before greasing but after scratching take iso alcohols and give a wipe this removes the oils and contaminants
Out standing shipmate. Press on. USS Kitty Hawk CV-63 Jan 1980 to July 1983.
This is why i went to motorcycles as a kid !!
nicely done, I'll definitely apply this if i get a used clutch
Is there any difference from a $20 clutch and a $40?
Luke Chauvin in order to get a nice, racing level centrifugal clutch you gotta have at least $60. But yeah there is probably a difference in quality between a $20 and $40 clutch
Hey I would just remind you when you buy a new clutch you most likely have to oil it before putting it on I had this issue because I didnt read its description
Good video kid. It was put together really well and you are very articulate.
Throwing shit everywhere. That's how I roll too.
I don't recommend taking your Dremel and sanding the inside out like that just some lights scoffing is all it will take I have even painted mine again and just some light sanding to make it rough and it will last twice as long what this young man is doing is right but it's wrong at the same time he will prematurely wear the clutch out. But they're pretty cheap anyways so to each their own.
They're pretty cheap, whaaaat I bought mine for 120 dollars and that is not cheap for someone without a job
He's on the right trail but a bit aggressive by using the dremel. My family races karts and we do this all the time. Use a scotch bright pad or sandpaper of 200 grit to remove clutch debris. Also, skip the alcohol and simply us break cleaner. Faster and gets in all the crevices. Check the pads for rough edges. They feel like tiny metal shards. For oiling, we only use light oils such as wd-40 or similar product. Any lubes on the contact surface will burn off in a few seconds.
@@droddy1972 please help me dude, my clutch is making squeaky noises and whenever I run my bike it gets extremely hot and I can feel the warmth by my legs. Besides the noises and heat it runs okay
@@str8xrippin Replace, best thing you can do. 30 bucks on amazon.
@@favern3850 I bought the clutch 2 days ago and have about 45min to an hour of use and I must already replace it??
Cool kart good vid
You put the master link clip on backwards. The open end goes toward the rear when on top
Dam guy ill buy you some snap ring pliers......
Got some finally🤣
Good I was disassembling my old clutch and I used the flathead technique as well but it flew at unimaginable speed past my left temple somewhere into the abyss I was lucky to have not lost my eye.
DIOSES AZTECAS MEXICAS TE PROTEGAN
Nice vid. I personally use Hilliard Extreme Duty Clutch on my Colman BT200x great clutches 💪
Nicely done
Hey guys! Im back, check out my latest vid with the drag minibike and drift kart,
ua-cam.com/video/Obx4aIgey6E/v-deo.html
Dam what causes that slipping I I grease it every time I go out well mabe every other time but dam its a brand new racing clutch what v
Homie used a whole roll of paper towels
Nice
Do the lines really help though? Doesnt it reduce the surface area and contact patch?
In my case it did. The cheap ebay clutches have crappy pads, so instead of creating a smooth surface, I need to makea rough surface for what was left of the shoe to grip. You dont need the lines, but I was going overkill on it. The strategie does work. I bough a nice clutch from GPS and it worked about the same.
It's like a 4 puck vs a 6 puck car clutch.
The 4 puck will have more holding power on those 4 pads than if it was spread among 6,if spring pressure remains the same among both of them.
But yes, it can wear faster now as more pressure is on 4 pucks vs 6.
When cleaning up that drum with the grinder.. Sparks = BAD. Need to be a bit less aggressive. You don't want to get it out of round.
Nice job🇺🇲
Why not use carburetor cleaner?
Master link is going wrong way. Clip opposite to direction of chin direction ..
What do you mean by that?
@@crazykatana1297 the open end of the master link clip should not be going the direction the chain is traveling. Because if the clip hits something it will pop off
@@WICKEDGIXXERL thank you
@@WICKEDGIXXERL If the master link clip hits something you are going to have a bigger problem than the clip coming off. 😉
Would grease work as a lube?
Yes gust not to much.Its better then Vaseline.
You can drill the crank bolt or crank end (depending on clutch mounting) and add a grease fitting.
install the bushing part of the clutch and drill down into the crank.
Clean off all the chips , assemble and give a shot of grease in the crank end.
Haha if you're slick you can do it while it's running.
It doesn't need but just a partial shot, initial fill should be done disassembled with the center piece on the crank so you don't overgrease it.
@@DTW-bx2vy I use high heat temp but it's Valvoline grease the red kind for cars. I think it's better then anything else don't have to worry about it melting away when it gets hot my clutch doesn't run hot like my last one did. But I should clean it and do a good lube job
Nice hack my clutch grabs great doesn't get hot anymore now I don't have to get a bully clutch
spendin a few bucks on lube and sandpaper is def cheaper than spending $200+ on a bully, thanks for the support homie
Hey great video. My new clutch is sparking and making a griding noice inbetween the outer and inter layer when i start throttling. Do you know a fix?:
replace the clutch, shoes might be blown
@@kartingkid714 Really? i just bought it
@@dauntlessentertainment4922 its brand new? possible manufacturing defect i honestly dont know
Its usually the clutch vibrating it will have play on the shaft. I have used the flat washer at the base if the shaft to prevent vibration.
You dont grind a clutch with a dremel
Use sandpaper and very fine
I like go Powersports.com i bought a sprocket and Brake Drum for my 1998 Manco Terminator gokart.
“Isotoner” rubbing alcohol Hahaha!
i was going to say too
what dremmel bit did u use?
use brake clean
please do not use vasoline for mechanical applications if you can avoid it. otherwise excellent video to save burned out clutches.
Wait... What does it sound like again? Lol
I thought he was going to break the glaze, not ruin the clutch.
Removing material inside clutch housing with a Dremel…not a good idea. You;re essentially shortening the life of the clutch by removing material with very abrasive high speed sanding. Use fine grit sandpaper and go over a couple times. That’s it. The clutch plates are already wearing down the housing. Don’t help it. Just my opinion.
You're right, this was supposed to be a literal last ditch effort. Also made this year's ago when I first started tinkering
Small dremel like that is a very bad idea. So many bad idea's in this video. 🙈
Hey my wheel spins even do I’m not pressing the throttle? I adjusted the idle still spins it’s a brand new 212 predator engine? Can u help me ?
Hello, is it making like a grinding noise and it bogs/stalls your engine?
do you have a centrifugal clutch or torque converter
@@Gy6speed YES, I am a different person but mine does this. I was hoping I just need to clean and oil the clutch?
@@ALIGHTFORTHEWORLD usually if you take the clutch bell off and put hi temp grease on the part where the bell rolls on the actual clutch part then it should stop it from grinding for a while
@@ALIGHTFORTHEWORLD because when my bike did this it would just grind super loud and immediately stall the engine, it was so bad when i started it that i couldn’t even ride it because it did it so quickly
Talk about the wrong way to do things !
Great Bidio
Get good points for effort but you should not have used a dremel just some 80 grit sand paper and did it by hand you just destroyed your clutch it's only gonna last a short time bro nice try though
ehhh i mean yeah if i wanted this to last until the sun explodes i woulnt even mess with the inner contact parts of the clutch, but i just took if off the go kart and its still goin well