I really like the smooth movement of this one.. Great job! I know that you gave reference to where you got your info for making this prop... However, it would be heplful if you could provide a little more detail on the specifics of exactly which motor, speed controller and linkage that you used, the specific points of connection between the prop and the motor....and/or any modifications that you chose to make....at least it would be for me. When I see something that I like, I would rather see exactly how YOU did it, rather than researching where you got your inspiration... Not saying that you should necessarily add it into your videos but, I would definitely appreciate seeing those details in the description...
I agree with you. I’m not the greatest at doing tutorials but I’m trying to improve. Free time is my biggest obstacle cause this is just a hobby for me. Thank you for your input and advice I will definitely use it.
I’d like to add that I got much of the build ideas from watching a combination of videos from Scarrie Halloween, Silent Scream Props, Twigrot Sinister Props, Monster Misfits and many others.
I like what you did but how did you get the movement of what looks like he going up down and how his shoulders move with easy. Is what would like to know if you don’t mind sharing
@@robjara3469 honestly the movement was not so much intentional as it was trial and error. This particular skeleton had ball joints without the ratcheting mechanism which made it smoother and easier to move without having to add any other hardware so I think that helped a lot in the movement. Also, I cut my own piece of aluminum for the linkage since this motor didn’t come with the linkage arm, which is usually small anyway. The length of the linkage will determine how far forward and back it will go so you just have to decide how much movement you want and again that’s all just trial and error. The up-and-down movement comes from the ball joint, which I loosened the screws that hold it together so that it move more freely.
@@cesarcalderon7308 a windshield wiper motor attached to the tailbone propels it forward and back. You have to figure out the placement of the motor on your baseplate depending upon how much movement you want. Most wiper motors come with a small arm to attach it to, but you can also make your own by using a mending plate from a hardware store. The longer the armature arm, the more movement it’ll have forward and back, so you just have to play with it. Not all skeletons are made the same so you may have to loosen screws where the joints are put together so that it will move more freely. Securing the arms to your front of the base plate let’s the shoulders move forward and back when the wiper motor moves.
Yes I didn’t show it here but I simply removed the head from the spine by loosening or removing the screws in the head that hold it in. Then I cut the spine back a couple inches below the neck line so that I could fit the 1/2” pipe and 3/4” T in its place so that you can get the up and down head movement.
I really like the smooth movement of this one.. Great job!
I know that you gave reference to where you got your info for making this prop... However, it would be heplful if you could provide a little more detail on the specifics of exactly which motor, speed controller and linkage that you used, the specific points of connection between the prop and the motor....and/or any modifications that you chose to make....at least it would be for me.
When I see something that I like, I would rather see exactly how YOU did it, rather than researching where you got your inspiration... Not saying that you should necessarily add it into your videos but, I would definitely appreciate seeing those details in the description...
I agree with you. I’m not the greatest at doing tutorials but I’m trying to improve. Free time is my biggest obstacle cause this is just a hobby for me. Thank you for your input and advice I will definitely use it.
I’d like to add that I got much of the build ideas from watching a combination of videos from Scarrie Halloween, Silent Scream Props, Twigrot Sinister Props, Monster Misfits and many others.
I like what you did but how did you get the movement of what looks like he going up down and how his shoulders move with easy. Is what would like to know if you don’t mind sharing
@@robjara3469 honestly the movement was not so much intentional as it was trial and error. This particular skeleton had ball joints without the ratcheting mechanism which made it smoother and easier to move without having to add any other hardware so I think that helped a lot in the movement. Also, I cut my own piece of aluminum for the linkage since this motor didn’t come with the linkage arm, which is usually small anyway. The length of the linkage will determine how far forward and back it will go so you just have to decide how much movement you want and again that’s all just trial and error. The up-and-down movement comes from the ball joint, which I loosened the screws that hold it together so that it move more freely.
@@EastPointNecropolis first I like to say thank you for replying. And thanks for the information.. Appreciate it, happy Halloween
Any specifics on the movement??
@@cesarcalderon7308 a windshield wiper motor attached to the tailbone propels it forward and back. You have to figure out the placement of the motor on your baseplate depending upon how much movement you want. Most wiper motors come with a small arm to attach it to, but you can also make your own by using a mending plate from a hardware store. The longer the armature arm, the more movement it’ll have forward and back, so you just have to play with it. Not all skeletons are made the same so you may have to loosen screws where the joints are put together so that it will move more freely. Securing the arms to your front of the base plate let’s the shoulders move forward and back when the wiper motor moves.
Did you have to cut the spine abit to fit the pvc pipe in
Yes I didn’t show it here but I simply removed the head from the spine by loosening or removing the screws in the head that hold it in. Then I cut the spine back a couple inches below the neck line so that I could fit the 1/2” pipe and 3/4” T in its place so that you can get the up and down head movement.
@@EastPointNecropolis oh true you did a wonderful job on it btw