thank's for this video! helped me out of some setting problems. tip from me: For DSS comet stacking: mark the comet first 3 pic's and last 3 pic's, and DSS wil do the rest. saves you a lot off time !
Tim, thank you for producing such a clear, concise and helpful video and for making this complex hobby so accessible and fun. You make some of the best astrophotography tutorials out there.
Tim, thank you so much for this video. This was a very clear and detailed guide to DSS. I've been using DSS for about 8 months and this video showed me several things I didn't know about.
Hi Tim, A really informative video. I always like watching your videos because the information content per unit time is very high, higher than any other sstrophotogtapher I follow. I'm looking forward to your next video. I also like your choice of music. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Thanks for this - I followed this with my 2017 data of the Flame nebula/Horsehead Nebula - I used a Canon 100d DSLR with my Skywatcher 150p tracking on an EQ3pro. The image came out like yours (I have about 30 mins of data) in the end except it always looks like it has a grey layer over the image. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Apart from that - great tutorial :) I sorted it in photoshop! Lots of levels, corves, RAW filter editing. Thanks!!
wow just learning all the buzz words and software platforms is a job. Next, going through the various steps and when it's done is it just pretty or a real star quality image? 😎 Thank you.
Hello Tim, i've got a science fair coming up and we have an option to choose astrophotography, so id like to know if you have any ideas regarding it or maybe the idea you got as you grew up but graduated from high and were not able to show case it then i'd very much like to adapt that idea.
I've been having the hardest time removing the amp glow from my images. Couldn't figure out why. Turned out to be the Fits settings. Now the amp glow is gone. Thanks.
First of all, you can not change debayering tranformation after registering if you switched to or from super-pixel mode, you need to re-register your subs. And second, there is no word in this tutorial about bayer matrix transformation settings which is super important topic for stacking
I noticed that the green channel is shifted to the right. Do you know why? I'm not sure if the reason is the same but I have similar results even for neutral images where all channels should be roughly equaly intense as it happens in each individual frame. I read a lot about all settings in DSS related to background normalization and tried them all, but no chance to avoid DSS shifting the channels in the final image so that the histogram is similar to individual frames.
Salut. You need to use RGB background calibration with a dslr or one shot astrophotography camera if you are not using narrowband filters. Using RGB calibration will apply also color calibration, and you can post post process the images much faster without working too much to obtain a good color balance. I will upload soon a complete tutorial on deep sky stacker on my channel and i will show also comparison with images
Question: Why do you suggest using the AHD Debayering however then when you look at the suggested settings change it to bilinear? This seems kind of counter to me.
Hi máster,very good job,i no speak english only spanish, What best photo stack in deepskytracker for after develop ...autosave in 32 bit or save as in 16 bit?
Please solve my doubt I have 300 light frames of milky way untracked with the foreground. Now when I stack them the foreground also moves up and gets blurry in the final image. is there a way to only stack the stars without interfering with the foreground?
Thanks very much for this tutorial. I had a couple of questions which might be related. What does "NC" mean in the table of images? Is this why DSS stacked only 342 of 592 light frames even though I told it to stack all the light frames?
The NC just stands for 'Not Calculated'. You need to run the analysis first, aka. register them. Bu ti don't know why it's stacking less than your 100%, if you told it so. Maybe install th newest version, i've heard of problems if the version is outdated
@@AstroAddict Thanks! I also saw that some of the calculated offsets were huge (like 3000 pixels) even though none of my images were shifted that much. Does that mean that DSS's registration algorithm fails sometimes? I am using version 4.2.5 which is the current version. By the way, I finally got an AC adapter for my camera so I won't have to change batteries every hour! I'm really looking forward to taking images for several hours.
I shot 210 light frames at 1.6sec exposure time and 40 dark, bias, flat frames. I got 3mins exposure time. But how come he got 3hrs exposure time with just 59 lights and 30 rest of the frames??? How come its only stacking 72lights in my laptop when it should stack 210
Is it truth that doing dark frames on dslr is making more noise than not making them at all ? Because i've heard uncooled dslrs will create more noise coz you can't keep temperature stable
Piotrek Wu no,its not true,you try and do it,try 30 photos to stack with no darks,and then try 30 to stacks only with darks,15 darks,if you want almost same temperature of sensor what i do i let 10-15 sec between photos,not more,i know you lose a lot of time but it will be worth it,same with darks,always try yourself,you will se the diference,you have 150 mm f5 with canon 650 with 40000 clicks on bortel 6,your friend maybe 100mm f6 on nikon 3300d on bortel 4 with idas,ALWAYS TRY,ASK AND FIND YOUR BEST SETINGS
Hey Tim, ich bin mir nicht ganz sicher, woran es liegt, aber bei mir werden viel zu viele Sterne beim Threshold registriert. Bei 7% werden knapp 7000 Sterne registriert. Daher habe ich auf 80% gestellt, was immer noch 700 Sterne liefert. Im Endergebnis sprich nach dem Bearbeiten in Photoshop sind auch viel zu viele Sterne im Bild. Sprich man sieht fast den schwarzen Hintergrund nicht mehr vor lauter Sternen. Ich habe den Butterfly Nebula bei einem Gain von 1000 und einer Belichtungszeit von 180s für insgesamt eine Stunde fotografiert. Mit einer RedCat51 bei f/4.9. Habe ich einfach überbelichtet?
Guten Morgen aus Venedig. Zunächst möchte ich dir zu deinen sehr hilfreichen Videos gratulieren und danken. Ich bin ein Hobbyastronom anderer Zeiten, da ich 1973 damit angefangen habe. Es waren andere Zeiten. Wir fotografierten analog und hatten ganz andere Probleme zu bewältigen. Es gab noch keine elektronische Hilfsmittel. Nun bin ich Rentner, und habe wieder angefangen. Es gibt viel zu lernen. Es ist praktisch ein Neuanfang. Letztlich habe ich Neowise mit meinem Tamron 150-600 fotografiert. Zirka 90 Lights und natürlich Darks, Flats und Bias dazu. Ich habe alles von DSS berechnen lassen, komme aber nicht wirklich zurecht. Jetzt meine Frage. Darf ich dir meine Files schicken? Könntest du mir die Bilder in DSS bearbeiten? Ich möchte verstehen, was möglich ist wenn man alles richtig macht. Natürlich nicht umsonst. Sag mir was du verlangst, solltest du bereit sein es zu machen. Gruß aus Venedig, Karl-Heinz Macek.
thank's for this video! helped me out of some setting problems.
tip from me: For DSS comet stacking: mark the comet first 3 pic's and last 3 pic's, and DSS wil do the rest. saves you a lot off time !
Great Videos Tim. Concise, accurate, well presented. Many thanks
Tim, thank you for producing such a clear, concise and helpful video and for making this complex hobby so accessible and fun. You make some of the best astrophotography tutorials out there.
Tim, thank you so much for this video. This was a very clear and detailed guide to DSS. I've been using DSS for about 8 months and this video showed me several things I didn't know about.
Thanks, this is what i was looking for long time. Keep up the good work!
Hi Tim,
A really informative video. I always like watching your videos because the information content per unit time is very high, higher than any other sstrophotogtapher I follow. I'm looking forward to your next video. I also like your choice of music. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Tim, thank you! This was a terrific step-by-step process through DSS.
Awesome video, best tutorial I’ve found!
Stopping in to show support. Keep it up. Stay safe. Clear skies.
Thanks for good explanation! I had no idea where to start with this software. Subscribed!
Thank you Tim for this tutorial!
You really covered it all and I will definitely (!) link this vid - it's really good!
Greetings
Chris
great result, and thanks for the tutorials!
notable..........y .......excelente master...muchas gracias
i love the attempt to edit then “i do not know how this works in this software but hopefully you got the basics” LOL
Congratulations Tim for this tutorial really beautiful and exhaustive,I also liked your tutorial on Astro Pixel Processor
Many thanks!
Love your vids. This one is going to be very helpful
Thank you Tim you explanation really helped had no idea how to DeepSkyStacker
Great video! Keep up the good work
very nice and clear video!
Super erklärt und tolles Video.
many thanks for this video
U are the best man
Great explanation 👌
Glad you think so!
great video, thanks
Excellent!
Thanks for this - I followed this with my 2017 data of the Flame nebula/Horsehead Nebula - I used a Canon 100d DSLR with my Skywatcher 150p tracking on an EQ3pro. The image came out like yours (I have about 30 mins of data) in the end except it always looks like it has a grey layer over the image. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Apart from that - great tutorial :) I sorted it in photoshop! Lots of levels, corves, RAW filter editing. Thanks!!
Ah m8 finelly i can see the pictures get better! Thames alot for this!
Beautiful image, Tim, and another useful tutorial. I'm currently building an observatory and can't wait to be taking shots like this.
Sounds great!
wow just learning all the buzz words and software platforms is a job. Next, going through the various steps and when it's done is it just pretty or a real star quality image? 😎 Thank you.
Ok. I never used to check autosave part lol. thanks for that
I am poor so real AP is a ways off, but I want to see what I can with my phone. Not expecting much, but thank you for making this!
Hello Tim, i've got a science fair coming up and we have an option to choose astrophotography, so id like to know if you have any ideas regarding it or maybe the idea you got as you grew up but graduated from high and were not able to show case it then i'd very much like to adapt that idea.
Helpful
Glad it helped
Lots of great tips! Thanks. Any chance you are planning a video on stacking in APP?
It's on the way!
So after processing it in DSS, you processed the output file in Pixinsight? Great video
I've been having the hardest time removing the amp glow from my images. Couldn't figure out why. Turned out to be the Fits settings. Now the amp glow is gone. Thanks.
First of all, you can not change debayering tranformation after registering if you switched to or from super-pixel mode, you need to re-register your subs. And second, there is no word in this tutorial about bayer matrix transformation settings which is super important topic for stacking
Gracias thanks
Hola buen dia como podria tener este tutorial subtitulado?, gracias saludos.
I can't stack all the images, like example, i added 400 lights ,it only stacks 250 , and even after i did (stack best 100%), what should i do?
I've heard about that. Do you have the latest version?
I noticed that the green channel is shifted to the right. Do you know why? I'm not sure if the reason is the same but I have similar results even for neutral images where all channels should be roughly equaly intense as it happens in each individual frame. I read a lot about all settings in DSS related to background normalization and tried them all, but no chance to avoid DSS shifting the channels in the final image so that the histogram is similar to individual frames.
Salut. You need to use RGB background calibration with a dslr or one shot astrophotography camera if you are not using narrowband filters. Using RGB calibration will apply also color calibration, and you can post post process the images much faster without working too much to obtain a good color balance. I will upload soon a complete tutorial on deep sky stacker on my channel and i will show also comparison with images
Question: Why do you suggest using the AHD Debayering however then when you look at the suggested settings change it to bilinear? This seems kind of counter to me.
I just remember, the last time I used DSS for my actual processing, I was using DSLR files. Possible that AHD is the preferred option for that
15:16 PASSION
Hi máster,very good job,i no speak english only spanish, What best photo stack in deepskytracker for after develop ...autosave in 32 bit or save as in 16 bit?
16 bit should be fine for your work
Hi Tim does DSS automatically align an image of you don’t have any polar alignment or tracker. Could I achieve decent results just using a tripod?
Yes, it's possible. Check some tutorials on UA-cam, I think NebulaPhotos has one. DSS does align the images automatically. It's called registering
Please solve my doubt I have 300 light frames of milky way untracked with the foreground. Now when I stack them the foreground also moves up and gets blurry in the final image. is there a way to only stack the stars without interfering with the foreground?
No you can't stack them perfectly. But you can blend one of your foreground images with the stacked background in post processing
Thanks very much for this tutorial. I had a couple of questions which might be related. What does "NC" mean in the table of images? Is this why DSS stacked only 342 of 592 light frames even though I told it to stack all the light frames?
The NC just stands for 'Not Calculated'. You need to run the analysis first, aka. register them. Bu ti don't know why it's stacking less than your 100%, if you told it so. Maybe install th newest version, i've heard of problems if the version is outdated
@@AstroAddict Thanks! I also saw that some of the calculated offsets were huge (like 3000 pixels) even though none of my images were shifted that much. Does that mean that DSS's registration algorithm fails sometimes? I am using version 4.2.5 which is the current version. By the way, I finally got an AC adapter for my camera so I won't have to change batteries every hour! I'm really looking forward to taking images for several hours.
It can happen that registration fails, but I guess that it was the meridian flip. Did the angle also change by ~180?
I shot 210 light frames at 1.6sec exposure time and 40 dark, bias, flat frames. I got 3mins exposure time. But how come he got 3hrs exposure time with just 59 lights and 30 rest of the frames???
How come its only stacking 72lights in my laptop when it should stack 210
Calculate the exposure time for yourself. 180 min total exposures in 59 frames makes 3 minute per exposure
Is it truth that doing dark frames on dslr is making more noise than not making them at all ? Because i've heard uncooled dslrs will create more noise coz you can't keep temperature stable
They won't create noise if the temperature is stable. Shoot at least a few after the session with same temperature
Piotrek Wu no,its not true,you try and do it,try 30 photos to stack with no darks,and then try 30 to stacks only with darks,15 darks,if you want almost same temperature of sensor what i do i let 10-15 sec between photos,not more,i know you lose a lot of time but it will be worth it,same with darks,always try yourself,you will se the diference,you have 150 mm f5 with canon 650 with 40000 clicks on bortel 6,your friend maybe 100mm f6 on nikon 3300d on bortel 4 with idas,ALWAYS TRY,ASK AND FIND YOUR BEST SETINGS
Hey Tim, ich bin mir nicht ganz sicher, woran es liegt, aber bei mir werden viel zu viele Sterne beim Threshold registriert. Bei 7% werden knapp 7000 Sterne registriert. Daher habe ich auf 80% gestellt, was immer noch 700 Sterne liefert. Im Endergebnis sprich nach dem Bearbeiten in Photoshop sind auch viel zu viele Sterne im Bild. Sprich man sieht fast den schwarzen Hintergrund nicht mehr vor lauter Sternen. Ich habe den Butterfly Nebula bei einem Gain von 1000 und einer Belichtungszeit von 180s für insgesamt eine Stunde fotografiert. Mit einer RedCat51 bei f/4.9. Habe ich einfach überbelichtet?
Was für filter hast du benutzt? Kannst du mir vielleicht das Bild zeigen?
ich bin völliger Anfänger...was sind flatframes, darkframes und lightframes, woher bekomme ich die? ich hab ja nur raw bzw. jpg bilder
ua-cam.com/video/NhDc4U7n7r4/v-deo.html ;D
I am getting "The checked pictures are not compatibles" and it is bugging me a lot. Sometimes this happens sometimes not
Are you working with dark flats?
@@AstroAddict No. Should I?
No, those caused this issue in my case. Check the ISO settings, and if the flats are considered greyscale
Guten Morgen aus Venedig. Zunächst möchte ich dir zu deinen sehr hilfreichen Videos gratulieren und danken. Ich bin ein Hobbyastronom anderer Zeiten, da ich 1973 damit angefangen habe. Es waren andere Zeiten. Wir fotografierten analog und hatten ganz andere Probleme zu bewältigen. Es gab noch keine elektronische Hilfsmittel. Nun bin ich Rentner, und habe wieder angefangen. Es gibt viel zu lernen. Es ist praktisch ein Neuanfang. Letztlich habe ich Neowise mit meinem Tamron 150-600 fotografiert. Zirka 90 Lights und natürlich Darks, Flats und Bias dazu. Ich habe alles von DSS berechnen lassen, komme aber nicht wirklich zurecht. Jetzt meine Frage. Darf ich dir meine Files schicken? Könntest du mir die Bilder in DSS bearbeiten? Ich möchte verstehen, was möglich ist wenn man alles richtig macht. Natürlich nicht umsonst. Sag mir was du verlangst, solltest du bereit sein es zu machen.
Gruß aus Venedig, Karl-Heinz Macek.
Ich mach das auch so, gib her die Bilder😀
@@AstroAddict Das ist super nett von dir. Gibst du mi deine Mailadresse? Ich schicke dir alles mit WeTransfer. Passt das?
Du kannst die AstroAddict adresse im den Kanalinfos finden
Probably too fast for me. I will other tutorial on DSS! Thanks!
I mean look for other tutorials in DSS!!
Hi.
non si capisce cosa fai e un tutorial per chi conosce abbastanza dss, clicci a a desta e a manca senza dire cosa stai facendo.
Can I do a time lapse on this ? If not what free software can I use that’s not too difficult to use ?