Thanks Chad! Really appreciated this video. You answered a question I asked in your Battery Box video about the 12v USB hub you used. I realized I have an Anker 7 port USB hub. I checked and yep!, it has a 12v input connector. Thanks again.
I learned a different method for joining wires together, especially if they are different diameters. Leave the wires frayed. Slip the shrink tube on. Spread the wires apart and push them together in line. Solder them and apply the shrink tubing
Chad - hope all is well w/ you and your family - qq - on your video i see you have some hook and eye tensioners on your rolling platform (I built my own along your specs) - just wondering its purpose - to hold the the equipment tight while rolling the platform out? BTW - i'm in Cumming - and would love to sync up - TIA - Paul
You are referring to the power supply as a 12V DC power supply. The model you show in the video is not the one linked in the comments above but rather a 14.1 volt DC power supply. I know I had seen a video by another UA-cam person who modified the same model power supply to knock it down to 13.1 volts. Is that something I need to be concerned about or is the 14.1V okay? I don't want to start melting things. Sorry for the newb question. It was really a great video and I appreciate you taking the time to provide all of the links and great examples. Maybe you can do a follow-up talking more about the actual connections on the scope and how you wired everything. Again, great work.
It is a perfectly valid question! The vast majority of electronic equipment that state they use 12 V DC, will actually accept voltages between the low to mid 11s all the way up through 15 V. This is because when you use a battery, as the battery begins to drain, the voltage output drops. You may start with a lead acid battery that is outputting 12.6 volts and end with one outputting 11.6 volts. And your hardware will function properly the entire time. With this being said, most of us have found that our telescope mounts operate better when provided higher voltages. The higher voltage provides better tracking because the motor has more power. You can see many discussions online about this especially in regards to skywatchers style mounts. As you can see, I am using a 14.1 V DC output regularly when I’m at home and can plug into AC current. When I’m running off my battery, I want my voltage to remain high as well. In that case, I am now using a boost converter that takes in my DC current from the battery and pushes the voltage up to 13.8 consistently. I’ll try to show that on video sometime soon as well. It’s not a requirement, but I like that my equipment is still being powered in the high 13s even on battery, and through the whole evening even as the battery voltage itself drops over time.
This video may help with the cabling. Simplify Your 12v DC Telescope Power Cables. It is one of my older videos, you may need to search the channel. UA-cam isn’t letting me paste links right now for some reason…
This is really getting me thinking, so thanks for the video and all your other ones too. One question: in this video you cut off the ends of existing power supplies but i wasn't clear on whether you were doing that just to save money of buying the same adapter again or if there's really anything unique and important about keeping the existing manufacturer's plug going into the gear. I'm assuming it's fine to just buy cables with the correct size barrels and gauge if i don't want to cut stuff up?
No reason other than reuse. Also, the assumption that the connector is properly rated for our power supply instead of buying a bag of cable ends that you may or may not fully trust. But for the record, I use and buy cable ends too. :)
Hi. Read your article “ Remote Control Your Telescope (MiniPC) “. I enjoyed it thoroughly and am in the process of following your instructions and doing the same setup. But in that article you stated “As far as wireless access when in the field, we are going to table that discussion until a bit later as it adds come complexity that we don’t need to introduce just yet.” Do you have an article or video now which expands the info of that article to have remote control when in the field without any internet or cell phone coverage… completely off the grid? What other equipment will I need? Thanks.
You can watch my ‘take the Internet with you’ video to show you how i use a small access point to get local network connectivity to remote control the unit when off the grid. It can also be coupled with the phone tether to provide Internet access. Nina’s newer capabilities, such as loading the off-line sky cache for framing, makes it pretty much where you shouldn’t need Internet access during a session anyway but you need to make sure you have those files in place prior because it is a very large download. So either an ethernet cable or some sort of wireless access to remote control the unit and the battery. Then you can get up and running.
The MeLe 3 has a usb c power input. any thoughts on converting usb c to 12v cable for the anderson power pole setup? Will the buck converter you used on the Allsky camera work for power to the MeLe mini computer?
Yes thank you for this video…although I am not familiar with all this my husband will probably help me accomplish this needed task of reducing the lengths of cables and wires and power bricks ….the only thing is would it still be worthwhile to do if I do not intend to have an onboard computer?
Definitely still value in doing this. A couple reasons: 1. Reduce your large and heavy power bricks down to a single power source. 2. The power source can now be a single AC/DC convertor or even a DC battery. 3. Removing heavy bricks removes balance issues as the mount slews throughout an imaging session. and 4. Removing excess wiring remove the possibility of cable snags as the mount move around.
Hey Chad, thank you for this awesome video. What do you suggest to convert the 12V DC to 8V DC to power my DLSR? I've looked at converters but can't find something that would work and be affordable for this setup compared to a Pegasus Powerbox with an adjustable output. Thank you!
I have heard some mounts are very picky about DC power quality - such that they run better if you supply a little over 12 V and that some are sensitive to any ripples from switching power supplies. Think adding a capacitor to smooth out any 60 Hz would be necessary?
I’m not sure if smoothing out the power would matter much BUT I do occasionally question the quality of some of my portable lower amp 12v power supplies. They work, … but based on what I paid for them, I have to wonder. Regarding the voltage though, I have seen numerous comments about skywatcher mounts and how they do seem to perform at a much better level when they are provided consistently higher power, 13+ volts. I have considered using a voltage converter (buck converter) to drive the voltage higher for that specific device.
Yep, I have 2 and have no problems. They are industrial PCs so they are meant to run for very long periods of time, not to say there isn't such a thing as a bad one. Before I bought one, I didn't know much about them... now I see them everywhere running kiosks, advertisement TV screens, etc.
Would love your suggestion. I have two small computers I've been working on getting prepared to work with my scopes and would like to eliminate the power blocks for each of them. They both are currently 5V input through USB-C connectors. But I would like to connect them to my Pegasus Astro power advance. Suggestion(s)?
Go watch my Allsky Camera Part 2 video (on the battery box), I cover a 'similar' issue there using a buck or step-down converter. I modified the connector to be a powerpole style connector but you could just use the connector you need instead. I use that sort of connector in my 'Simplify your 12v DC telescope power cables' video. Basically, you'll need both videos to piece together your application using a buck converter and the right cable, but it is something you can do - no problem.
@@PatriotAstro ok - will do - have picked up the same Stick-PC you had in one of your other videos - a little nervous about the micro USB power connector… :)
Same concept there as well. Just make sure you get the converter with the right connector. In the comments of my videos I try to list what I am using. You may have to look at a couple to find that one, or just dig around on amazon. :) If you have trouble, let me know.
Those are Anderson Powerpole connectors anywhere else. We use them extensively in amateur radio. Great video!
Yep! I think I misspoke once or twice. No idea why… LOL
Just what I needed. Thank you
Thanks Chad! Really appreciated this video. You answered a question I asked in your Battery Box video about the 12v USB hub you used. I realized I have an Anker 7 port USB hub. I checked and yep!, it has a 12v input connector. Thanks again.
I'm very very impressed with the array of tools you have on hand!
I learned a different method for joining wires together, especially if they are different diameters. Leave the wires frayed. Slip the shrink tube on. Spread the wires apart and push them together in line. Solder them and apply the shrink tubing
Amazon sells cable assemblies with Anderson power pole connectors on one end and a 5.5 x 2.1 or 2.5 dimensions.only a few bucks each
Chad - hope all is well w/ you and your family - qq - on your video i see you have some hook and eye tensioners on your rolling platform (I built my own along your specs) - just wondering its purpose - to hold the the equipment tight while rolling the platform out? BTW - i'm in Cumming - and would love to sync up - TIA - Paul
Outstanding video!
Thank you! Cheers!
You are referring to the power supply as a 12V DC power supply. The model you show in the video is not the one linked in the comments above but rather a 14.1 volt DC power supply. I know I had seen a video by another UA-cam person who modified the same model power supply to knock it down to 13.1 volts. Is that something I need to be concerned about or is the 14.1V okay? I don't want to start melting things. Sorry for the newb question. It was really a great video and I appreciate you taking the time to provide all of the links and great examples. Maybe you can do a follow-up talking more about the actual connections on the scope and how you wired everything. Again, great work.
It is a perfectly valid question! The vast majority of electronic equipment that state they use 12 V DC, will actually accept voltages between the low to mid 11s all the way up through 15 V. This is because when you use a battery, as the battery begins to drain, the voltage output drops. You may start with a lead acid battery that is outputting 12.6 volts and end with one outputting 11.6 volts. And your hardware will function properly the entire time. With this being said, most of us have found that our telescope mounts operate better when provided higher voltages. The higher voltage provides better tracking because the motor has more power. You can see many discussions online about this especially in regards to skywatchers style mounts. As you can see, I am using a 14.1 V DC output regularly when I’m at home and can plug into AC current. When I’m running off my battery, I want my voltage to remain high as well. In that case, I am now using a boost converter that takes in my DC current from the battery and pushes the voltage up to 13.8 consistently. I’ll try to show that on video sometime soon as well. It’s not a requirement, but I like that my equipment is still being powered in the high 13s even on battery, and through the whole evening even as the battery voltage itself drops over time.
This video may help with the cabling. Simplify Your 12v DC Telescope Power Cables. It is one of my older videos, you may need to search the channel. UA-cam isn’t letting me paste links right now for some reason…
This is really getting me thinking, so thanks for the video and all your other ones too. One question: in this video you cut off the ends of existing power supplies but i wasn't clear on whether you were doing that just to save money of buying the same adapter again or if there's really anything unique and important about keeping the existing manufacturer's plug going into the gear. I'm assuming it's fine to just buy cables with the correct size barrels and gauge if i don't want to cut stuff up?
No reason other than reuse. Also, the assumption that the connector is properly rated for our power supply instead of buying a bag of cable ends that you may or may not fully trust. But for the record, I use and buy cable ends too. :)
Hi. Read your article “ Remote Control Your Telescope (MiniPC) “. I enjoyed it thoroughly and am in the process of following your instructions and doing the same setup. But in that article you stated “As far as wireless access when in the field, we are going to table that discussion until a bit later as it adds come complexity that we don’t need to introduce just yet.” Do you have an article or video now which expands the info of that article to have remote control when in the field without any internet or cell phone coverage… completely off the grid? What other equipment will I need? Thanks.
You can watch my ‘take the Internet with you’ video to show you how i use a small access point to get local network connectivity to remote control the unit when off the grid. It can also be coupled with the phone tether to provide Internet access. Nina’s newer capabilities, such as loading the off-line sky cache for framing, makes it pretty much where you shouldn’t need Internet access during a session anyway but you need to make sure you have those files in place prior because it is a very large download. So either an ethernet cable or some sort of wireless access to remote control the unit and the battery. Then you can get up and running.
The MeLe 3 has a usb c power input. any thoughts on converting usb c to 12v cable for the anderson power pole setup? Will the buck converter you used on the Allsky camera work for power to the MeLe mini computer?
Check here: ua-cam.com/video/W6uJN8Ra98U/v-deo.html
Thank you! I'm finding out that being an astronomer requires one to be a mechanic and an electrician, LOL.
Yes thank you for this video…although I am not familiar with all this my husband will probably help me accomplish this needed task of reducing the lengths of cables and wires and power bricks ….the only thing is would it still be worthwhile to do if I do not intend to have an onboard computer?
Definitely still value in doing this. A couple reasons: 1. Reduce your large and heavy power bricks down to a single power source. 2. The power source can now be a single AC/DC convertor or even a DC battery. 3. Removing heavy bricks removes balance issues as the mount slews throughout an imaging session. and 4. Removing excess wiring remove the possibility of cable snags as the mount move around.
@@PatriotAstro thank you for your speedy reply and your other videos are very helpful on Nina 1.11 which have not really been tackled elsewhere…❤️
No problem. Glad I can help!
Hey Chad, thank you for this awesome video. What do you suggest to convert the 12V DC to 8V DC to power my DLSR? I've looked at converters but can't find something that would work and be affordable for this setup compared to a Pegasus Powerbox with an adjustable output. Thank you!
The only saving grace of cigarette lighter adapters is that almost all of them are fused.
I have heard some mounts are very picky about DC power quality - such that they run better if you supply a little over 12 V and that some are sensitive to any ripples from switching power supplies. Think adding a capacitor to smooth out any 60 Hz would be necessary?
I’m not sure if smoothing out the power would matter much BUT I do occasionally question the quality of some of my portable lower amp 12v power supplies. They work, … but based on what I paid for them, I have to wonder. Regarding the voltage though, I have seen numerous comments about skywatcher mounts and how they do seem to perform at a much better level when they are provided consistently higher power, 13+ volts. I have considered using a voltage converter (buck converter) to drive the voltage higher for that specific device.
is your kingdel pc still running? I got one, hasn't arrived yet, I'm not familiar with the brand so i'm unsure of its durability.
Yep, I have 2 and have no problems. They are industrial PCs so they are meant to run for very long periods of time, not to say there isn't such a thing as a bad one. Before I bought one, I didn't know much about them... now I see them everywhere running kiosks, advertisement TV screens, etc.
@@PatriotAstro yeah, looks like a tank :D eager for mine to arrive
Would love your suggestion. I have two small computers I've been working on getting prepared to work with my scopes and would like to eliminate the power blocks for each of them. They both are currently 5V input through USB-C connectors. But I would like to connect them to my Pegasus Astro power advance. Suggestion(s)?
Go watch my Allsky Camera Part 2 video (on the battery box), I cover a 'similar' issue there using a buck or step-down converter. I modified the connector to be a powerpole style connector but you could just use the connector you need instead. I use that sort of connector in my 'Simplify your 12v DC telescope power cables' video. Basically, you'll need both videos to piece together your application using a buck converter and the right cable, but it is something you can do - no problem.
@@PatriotAstro ok - will do - have picked up the same Stick-PC you had in one of your other videos - a little nervous about the micro USB power connector… :)
Same concept there as well. Just make sure you get the converter with the right connector. In the comments of my videos I try to list what I am using. You may have to look at a couple to find that one, or just dig around on amazon. :) If you have trouble, let me know.
make sure your MiniPC runs on 5V, some have USB-C connectors carrying 12 V! (for example the Mele-PCs)