Mark consider a pressure regulator to get pressure down 65psi to the 33 or 35 psi you mentioned as normal for this engine or more issues will arise...leaking injectors over fueling and a whole lot more...just my humblest opinion
Even if you make it run with all the essential things working decently - what will the car be worth? Over here in Germany almost nobody would buy a car like that because the biannual road worthy inspection will be a real pain. My car just passed that without any problem except for a lighter wallet - 153 € (165 $).
that is not the fuel pump relay, you're looking for a rectangle 7 pin up under the far left side of the dash, two yellow and black wires feed out power to the FP and pcm. p/n MPE AR726SB the fuel pressure regulator or return line are having issues, i find it hard to believe a pump could deliver so much volume the regulator can't return all extra down to a nominal value. in tank hose was one issue for sure, 5 psi and bleeding back to zero meant it was leaking back into the tank.
Granted, I am the first person to admit that I only know enough about fuel injection to be a little bit dangerous (and I say a little bit because I have a natural hesitation when it come tearing into things of the computer controlled variety; otherwise, I’d be full blown dangerous) but I thought FI fuel pumps had to be “pressure matched” to the system they are going onto? I once installed a fuel pump from (I believe) a Mazda onto my e36 BMW thinking “close enough”. While the car started up cold and ran fine with the Mazda pump, if you shut it off for a short period of time (such as a gas fill up), the car had to crank and crank to restart. After procuring and installing the correct replacement pump, the car runs and starts perfectly again. I learned another lesson; from that point on, I only use good quality, name brand fuel pumps that are the correct application for the specific vehicle. While I am no parts snob and I am perfectly happy to cheap out and use those eBay and Amazon Chinese Parts in the plain white boxes that everyone ‘loves to hate’ for things that are easy to replace and that won’t leave me stranded on the side of the road at 1:00 AM in the middle of nowhere, things like fuel pumps and ignition parts are just not worth skimping on.
I’ve watched your videos for some time and this problem is repeated over and over. There is a certain amount of testing that needs to be done before throwing parts at a car. One red flag is the tank is building pressure with just the vapors, there is a problem with the system not venting. Plus seeing that much pressure and not holding, Some where the is a restriction which more than likely caused the old pump to give up and there possibly is a leak within the system for it not to hold pressure. Putting in a high flow pump is not necessary. You’re not running a boosted engine which requires more fuel.
Nice work getting the old civic running again! Have a great day everyone!
Mark consider a pressure regulator to get pressure down 65psi to the 33 or 35 psi you mentioned as normal for this engine or more issues will arise...leaking injectors over fueling and a whole lot more...just my humblest opinion
I think you can get a few more miles out of those tires.
an 80s Japanese car with 300,000 miles. Pre-Acura NSX.
Even if you make it run with all the essential things working decently - what will the car be worth? Over here in Germany almost nobody would buy a car like that because the biannual road worthy inspection will be a real pain. My car just passed that without any problem except for a lighter wallet - 153 € (165 $).
that is not the fuel pump relay, you're looking for a rectangle 7 pin up under the far left side of the dash, two yellow and black wires feed out power to the FP and pcm. p/n MPE AR726SB
the fuel pressure regulator or return line are having issues, i find it hard to believe a pump could deliver so much volume the regulator can't return all extra down to a nominal value.
in tank hose was one issue for sure, 5 psi and bleeding back to zero meant it was leaking back into the tank.
Ran into a similar issue recently. Turns out it was a fuseable link.
Probably too late to help, but it's a possible thing.
Tire is not a Maypop it's a Willflat.
How about those italion tires. Daygo through rain, Daygo through mud and when dago flat dago Wop Wop Wop.
An exercise in futility 🎉
Granted, I am the first person to admit that I only know enough about fuel injection to be a little bit dangerous (and I say a little bit because I have a natural hesitation when it come tearing into things of the computer controlled variety; otherwise, I’d be full blown dangerous) but I thought FI fuel pumps had to be “pressure matched” to the system they are going onto? I once installed a fuel pump from (I believe) a Mazda onto my e36 BMW thinking “close enough”. While the car started up cold and ran fine with the Mazda pump, if you shut it off for a short period of time (such as a gas fill up), the car had to crank and crank to restart. After procuring and installing the correct replacement pump, the car runs and starts perfectly again. I learned another lesson; from that point on, I only use good quality, name brand fuel pumps that are the correct application for the specific vehicle. While I am no parts snob and I am perfectly happy to cheap out and use those eBay and Amazon Chinese Parts in the plain white boxes that everyone ‘loves to hate’ for things that are easy to replace and that won’t leave me stranded on the side of the road at 1:00 AM in the middle of nowhere, things like fuel pumps and ignition parts are just not worth skimping on.
It’s a 1 grit flap wheel lol
Why would you add a high performance fuel pump to a stock car ?
Step up to a Civic lol.
I’ve watched your videos for some time and this problem is repeated over and over. There is a certain amount of testing that needs to be done before throwing parts at a car. One red flag is the tank is building pressure with just the vapors, there is a problem with the system not venting. Plus seeing that much pressure and not holding, Some where the is a restriction which more than likely caused the old pump to give up and there possibly is a leak within the system for it not to hold pressure. Putting in a high flow pump is not necessary. You’re not running a boosted engine which requires more fuel.