thank you this has been so helpingful since there's not much info from the company. was thinking of getting this as a gift for someone and I don't know how cameras really work :>
With cameras like this I think developing your own photos would be a real help. especially since you'd then own a dark bag and could check if you'd used the whole roll of film mid-way without exposing your photos. you can even make your own black and white developer with caffeine. that's how I got started. The fixer is a bit harder to make at home though.
This is great. Just a tip. If you take it to Jessops or Snappy Snaps they do it for you the same day. A good place to get cheap film is Gordon's chemist if you have any but A few independent places stock them. A friend of mine has started processing her own black and white stuff and then I scan them so it would be fun to try this out.
@@AtomicShrimp I think that would be a great idea! Althought it depends if you're comfortable with that, but honestly if you have a big reaction people would want to see rather than hear I'm pretty sure!
OK, I just tested it with a strip of paper (brilliant idea - glad I thought of that! ;) - the ratchet only has 4 clicks per full turn - 3 clicks (3/4 turn) is neeeeearly a whole frame, but not quite - so I guess it's 4 clicks - a full turn . Maybe once a few layers of film have wound onto the takeup spool - increasing its diameter, 3 clicks moght advance a full frame, so maybe after shooting 10 frames, 3/4 turn will do it for the rest of the roll
@@AtomicShrimp I'm glad it worked. I had a similar idea, I guess great minds think alike ;). Thanks for the update, brother. That camera has a lot of possibility and I think exploring it could become frustrating to someone with less patience. A roll of b&w Ilford iso 400 or even the iso 3200 for low light could produce some great images. Good luck and cheers.
I was going to say the half pictures are the automated developing system but then you flashed it up on the screen. I guess you will have to develop your own, but please don't decide to taste any weird stuff in a can when you do that 😜 (thinking about that comment it was probably cleverer than I intended)
it takes me back to when i used a 35mm cam (not that long ago), about 3 quaters of photos developed were good lol. i used film untill 2009 when i eventually moved to modern times, and i must say that i prefer digital as i can take a few and not have to worry about just how many pics will crap
35 mm film is meant to use 8 perforations per frame, which will give you an image 36 mm wide (36x24 mm²) with an extra 2 mm space between the frames. Without any instructions I would start by the assumption that each click moves the film by 1 perforation, so I would see if 8 clicks gives me the standard result. I would then have the film developed (no prints) and count if there are 8 perforations per frame (from the start of one frame to just before the start of the next frame). If so, then it would mean the assumption of one click per perforation was correct. Otherwise, I would calculate the actual number of perforations from the start of one frame to just before the start of the next. That would give me the number of perforations per eight clicks. From there I would calculate how many clicks would give me eight perforations, and from then on I could forward to the next frame by moving the whatever number of clicks moves eight perforations. This may actually be slightly different for each camera assembled from the kit (in theory they all should move the same, but depending on how you assemble it, there probably are some differences). That is probably why the directions do not tell you how many clicks to count, and also probably why they included the roll of the film, so you can calibrate it as described in my first paragraph. The eight perforations per frame are a standard. As for the shutter, I would think they designed it to stay open until you close it manually because pinhole cameras use much longer exposure times than cameras with objectives (lenses) and you would get tired pretty fast if you had to hold the shutter release by hand.
@RustyTube, they should have made an inverted shutter, where pressing it down raises the shutter and releasing the button makes it fall back down. Though, idk about the feasibility of that in this material.
I think it is a cool idea.... But I would have been quite disappointed with the results. Hopefully they heed your feedback. Add in them (from these comments) that their instructions should advice consumers to require the developers to DEVELOP the film. Not just shoot it through the machine. Pretty sure a human could have done a slightly better job framing the prints. Glad you had fun with it. Peace
I don't have a firm schedule for uploading - it's pretty much as it comes, but I do typically manage to upload a couple of new videos each weekend, then often publish others on the first few weekdays if it has been a productive shooting weekend.
It is a piece of shit! Today I tried to remove my first film, and the rewinder broke! The wood broke! Where? At the moving parts, where it should be the harder one! So, in order to remove the film I had to exposure it to light, and loosing all my shoots!!! And, of course, the camera is broken and unusable! What a waste of my money, time, effort, and emotions!!!
This is a testament to how crazy film is as an invention.
thank you this has been so helpingful since there's not much info from the company. was thinking of getting this as a gift for someone and I don't know how cameras really work :>
With cameras like this I think developing your own photos would be a real help. especially since you'd then own a dark bag and could check if you'd used the whole roll of film mid-way without exposing your photos. you can even make your own black and white developer with caffeine. that's how I got started. The fixer is a bit harder to make at home though.
This is great. Just a tip. If you take it to Jessops or Snappy Snaps they do it for you the same day. A good place to get cheap film is Gordon's chemist if you have any but A few independent places stock them. A friend of mine has started processing her own black and white stuff and then I scan them so it would be fun to try this out.
I would buy the one you said was the mill with the red slight exposure at the top. It was so beautiful!!
I really enjoyed this, I know I'm a couple of years late, but I thought it was fun.
That camera is so cool. My brother has a working model car in the same wood model style. It’s so interesting to build and learn the workings
Wow. This is really interesting. Quite nice
Turned out worlds better than I'd have imagined. Good framing. Cool video, even if not weird and canned.
Nice color on some of those!
That is awesome. My dad would have loved one of these.
Love these angles, keep it up! And this is super interesting!
I'm thinking of adding a camera to show my face/reaction when I taste something weird from a can. What do you reckon?
@@AtomicShrimp I think that would be a great idea! Althought it depends if you're comfortable with that, but honestly if you have a big reaction people would want to see rather than hear I'm pretty sure!
Test it opened with a junk roll of film to determine number of clicks per frame, even good film would only waste a frame or two to determine.
Yeah - I should have sacrificed an inch or two of the film before I started. I'll retest it soon.
@@AtomicShrimp heck, a strip of paper cut to film size could possibly work.
Even better. Why didn't I think of that!
OK, I just tested it with a strip of paper (brilliant idea - glad I thought of that! ;) - the ratchet only has 4 clicks per full turn - 3 clicks (3/4 turn) is neeeeearly a whole frame, but not quite - so I guess it's 4 clicks - a full turn .
Maybe once a few layers of film have wound onto the takeup spool - increasing its diameter, 3 clicks moght advance a full frame, so maybe after shooting 10 frames, 3/4 turn will do it for the rest of the roll
@@AtomicShrimp I'm glad it worked. I had a similar idea, I guess great minds think alike ;). Thanks for the update, brother. That camera has a lot of possibility and I think exploring it could become frustrating to someone with less patience. A roll of b&w Ilford iso 400 or even the iso 3200 for low light could produce some great images. Good luck and cheers.
I was going to say the half pictures are the automated developing system but then you flashed it up on the screen. I guess you will have to develop your own, but please don't decide to taste any weird stuff in a can when you do that 😜 (thinking about that comment it was probably cleverer than I intended)
Very cool! Thanks for being awesome
Idk why but i found your video very satisfying to watch
Because they are genuine
This is actually really cool, awesome
Wonderful!!!
I love your channel so much
it takes me back to when i used a 35mm cam (not that long ago), about 3 quaters of photos developed were good lol. i used film untill 2009 when i eventually moved to modern times, and i must say that i prefer digital as i can take a few and not have to worry about just how many pics will crap
Funny enough i still see "1 hour photo" signs on local pharmacies.
My mom still uses film, refuses to go digital.
35 mm film is meant to use 8 perforations per frame, which will give you an image 36 mm wide (36x24 mm²) with an extra 2 mm space between the frames. Without any instructions I would start by the assumption that each click moves the film by 1 perforation, so I would see if 8 clicks gives me the standard result. I would then have the film developed (no prints) and count if there are 8 perforations per frame (from the start of one frame to just before the start of the next frame). If so, then it would mean the assumption of one click per perforation was correct. Otherwise, I would calculate the actual number of perforations from the start of one frame to just before the start of the next. That would give me the number of perforations per eight clicks. From there I would calculate how many clicks would give me eight perforations, and from then on I could forward to the next frame by moving the whatever number of clicks moves eight perforations.
This may actually be slightly different for each camera assembled from the kit (in theory they all should move the same, but depending on how you assemble it, there probably are some differences). That is probably why the directions do not tell you how many clicks to count, and also probably why they included the roll of the film, so you can calibrate it as described in my first paragraph. The eight perforations per frame are a standard.
As for the shutter, I would think they designed it to stay open until you close it manually because pinhole cameras use much longer exposure times than cameras with objectives (lenses) and you would get tired pretty fast if you had to hold the shutter release by hand.
@RustyTube, they should have made an inverted shutter, where pressing it down raises the shutter and releasing the button makes it fall back down. Though, idk about the feasibility of that in this material.
I think I'll wait for the digital version.
Implant a pi maybe?
Actually I've done pinhole photography with my digital camera.
Have you figured out a way to weld HDPE plastic? Would love to see that boat come together
You could try some slide film
im definitely buying one for my dad
I think it is a cool idea.... But I would have been quite disappointed with the results. Hopefully they heed your feedback. Add in them (from these comments) that their instructions should advice consumers to require the developers to DEVELOP the film. Not just shoot it through the machine. Pretty sure a human could have done a slightly better job framing the prints.
Glad you had fun with it. Peace
Been looking forward to this for too long lol
Ooh boy new vid! What exactly is your upload schedule?
I don't have a firm schedule for uploading - it's pretty much as it comes, but I do typically manage to upload a couple of new videos each weekend, then often publish others on the first few weekdays if it has been a productive shooting weekend.
The nail biting right Down to stubs makes my skin crawl.
Cool
27th COMMENT!!!! Good video.
Ok
It is a piece of shit! Today I tried to remove my first film, and the rewinder broke! The wood broke! Where? At the moving parts, where it should be the harder one! So, in order to remove the film I had to exposure it to light, and loosing all my shoots!!! And, of course, the camera is broken and unusable! What a waste of my money, time, effort, and emotions!!!
It seems like it would be exhausting to go through life having reactions like this.
How is this not a scam?
It's a camera
@@AtomicShrimp I guess it did mostly work. Better instructions from the manufacturers would be nice.