Just got the blind from Dunelm, scratching my head jumped on You tube and you my friend made me realize how simple it was..Much Appreciated and all this time later we are still being helped by you...Big Thanks
Superb video. Very easy to follow and slow and clear at every stage. Good tips on where to work (kitchen floor in his case), how to mark lines accurately, how to cut the fabric and the top and bottom rails etc. He speaks clearly and loud. Very good guide, hope I can do as well myself this afternoon.
Life saver. A gem of a video. This helped me a non handyman to install my Dunelm blinds. By the way anyone cutting their blinds down, measure the actual blind material, don't go by the width the packaging says. I know he mentions it but just emphasising as it almost caught me out.
Excellent video - one of the best DIY videos on UA-cam…and not just about blinds! A craft knife with fresh blade and a long thin straight edge can also be used to trim the blind material and may leave less “jaggedy” bits but go with what you feel comfy with. I fitted a Dunelm blind about 5 years ago and nearly cut it too short by following their own instructions - this is much much better👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you very much, that is extremely kind of you to say that. I agree that a sharp craft would do the job very well. I opted out of that option (before nearly going that way) as I didn't want to cut the lino as well.
Update! You gave me the confidence, and I did it! I didn't have to cut it either as it is a massive frame with a smaller window. Just added the 3.2 on. Thanks!
Excellent! I have two blinds to fit two adjacent windows and having fitted the brackets was about to take the blinds into my workshop to cut to size. I was a little uneasy that the dimensions I was left with after deducting the 32mm may be suspect as the instructions were not as clear as I would like. So I decided to check this on UA-cam. I'm pleased I did because I had interpreted Dunelm instructions for the cutting distance to be the distance "between" the two brackets - so I took the inside measurement between the brackets. You were quite specific in using your "blu-tack" to emphasize that it was the "outside" dimension to be used. I realize that the difference may be only 5 or 6 mm - but I'm sure that could make the difference of a blind that runs free or a blind that "Binds". I am a great believer in getting it right. So I agree with another post that your instructions should replace those of Dunelm.
Using this video really helped me put up 2 blackout blinds from Dunelm - thank you so much! A hint for others, I bought a pair of wallpaper cutting scissors from Wilkos for 95p and the long cutting blade made for a very easy cut of the fabric 👍
Just tried to fit a Dunelm blind following their instructions, didn't fit, too long. After searching the interweb found your vid, brilliant. Remeasured and recut ( what a faf( ) now all ok. Now for the next one. Thank you!
Dunelm should use this on their site, far better than their video. Thanks your little piece of paper with the maths on it saved me cutting the material the wrong size, really helped as for some reason I didn’t take the size of the blind into account when deciding how much to cut off, and also the bluetac tip was great too. Thanks.
Thank you so much for your brilliant video. Though it took me several hours and rewinding your vid I finally got there and without your clear concise instructions it could have turned out badly! The blue tac kept me sane! The problem for me was that it was a bathroom blind and the sink was in the way.
Thank you this was so helpful - had no instructions for this blind (apparently there were none with it but then I didn't open the packet......) and would have had to go back to the shop or get it wrong without this - really clear and you have explained it all brilliantly, thanks again
Thank you for uploading this its going to help me to reposition and cut-down the dunelm roller blinds in my bathroom. The tip re the tape has been especially useful for me.💕
Thank you Squidgy ! Without doubt the worst set of instructions I’ve ever seen. Was about to take the blind back for a refund before I found your video Thanks again !
Thank you so much for this. Really thorough and helpful explanation. I just cut to size and fitted my John Lewis blind. I was stumped with the instructions until I saw this!
Any chance that you know the Brand name of this Roller Blind? It’s exactly the same as mine, I just need to replace the plastic side that won’t turn one way. Thanks
@@MitchCann Hi, all I can tell you is it came from Dunelm, I've just checked and there are no manufactures name or serial numbers, I don't expect that'll be much help but good luck.
The 1cm gap seems to relate to if you have the bracket side on. You need to leave the gap in that position so that the roller has enough space for the cloth. In the usual configuration as shown in the video, there's enough space to do this without a gap. Its a very poor diagram though and poorly explained.
My tip is to, before trimming the blind, remove the roller and double up the blind on your dining table, measure with set square and marker and then cut. Saves a lot of back ache and cuts down the possibility of mistakes. If the blind does not stick back satisfactorily then use thin double sided tape from hobby craft. Hobby craft do 28cm dressmaking scissors for £1.50. I used an elastic band to mark the roller. Great video by the way. Watched it twice and it was a great help.
Thank you for this very informative video. This was useful for a complete novice like me. I purchased the exact same blinds from Dunelm so discovering this video after I bought my purchase was fantastic. I successfully installed my blinds 😊.
This video was extremly helpful - my Dunelm sheer blinds , all 4 of them are now hanging up nicely:) i wouldnt have managed to cut to size without you! Thank you
Great video, one minor point is to put the springy plain end into the bracket first then you can use the weight of the blind itself as well as holding it to depress the springy end, which then allows you to fit the fixed mechanism end. Very helpful video gave me more confidence to cut mine down. I’m doing our conservatory so have 8 blinds to do!!
K-I-S-S, Yes, the old adage, Keep it simple and straightforward! Even an auld yin like me appreciates seeing the handy wee tips from someone else. Dunelm's printed instructions aren't absolutely clear, even confusing, so your video was well worth watching more than once. Explained the process out to cover every step very clearly. Weel done big man!
Actually, these brackets have a removable plastic backing, so If you are fitting inside the frame you just remove then and the same original measurements apply.
A brilliant "how to" video. Every step in logical sequence and optional tips. (I won't be fitting the annoying safety device either - personal circumstances and common sense dictate, though I will keep then in case we sell the house or circumstances change). The only issue I have is cutting the fabric - I always prefer a straight edge and craft knife/scalpel. It guarantees no ragged edge. Anyway, thank you - superbly clear,
Very helpful, thanks. Just fitted a Dunelm blackout blind and the instructions said measure the width and deduct 32 but as John Woffard noted this is wrong, it will be too wide to fit onto the recessed brackets. Had to re-cut another c. 8 mm off.
Thank you that’s brilliant just bought a roller blind from Dunelm yesterday and if can do this will be fitting about 5 more which are a fraction the cost of made to measure
Excellent video!! I won't have to wait for my other half to fit the blind now! So glad you showed us how to cut the blind to size as well, that's the part I was worried about the most 😊
We've just moved in to our first owned house and have some blinds to fit. This was very informative, thank you, but can I ask why you didn't use wall plugs when fitting the brackets? I've been told anything in the wall should use a plug otherwise it will not be secure for the long term. Thanks!
Hey. Congrats on the 1st home. If you are drilling into wood you don't need plugs as the wood will support the screw. It's that long since I fitted the blind I cant remember, but likely there is a wooden joist where I put the brackets. If you are attaching something to a cavity wall or a block wall then yes plugs are the way to go. Different plugs are used for different types.
@@SquidgyBidgey Hey, Thanks so much for your reply! That makes sense. So far we've only drilled a couple of holes for curtain poles and they've all been into plasterboard so we've used the suitable plugs for that. I hadn't thought about if it were straight into a wooden joint.
Thanks for putting that together. I am getting ready to replace the shades in my camper (campervan/caravan?), and found your presentation very helpful.
It seems to me that when the blind is actually clipped into the brackets it should be non control end first. That allows for the sprung piece to be pushed in using the blind itself and for the control end to be put in place.
Thanks! Even the Dunhelm video was unclear on all these steps. I didn't really understand why you had to do the 3.2 cm cut before this. Why isn't it just 3.2 shorter to start with? Fingers crossed I can't mess this one up.( last one was a failure).
Hello. I'm a bit confused. The instructions say to leave at least 1cm gap between the top of the recess when positioning the brackets (inside the recess) but I see you've fitted yours flush. Can you please clarify/advice? Thank you
I'm going to reply to this in case some other person like me asks the same question. It does say to do this on the Dunelm instructions and I think it is so that you can ensure that you have plenty of space for the cloth to wind around the roller. This will depend on your drop as to how much cloth you have as to whether you will need it or not. I positioned my roller on the brackets (before fitting) and could tell I wouldn't need to leave a gap of 1cm to the top of the window. In addition, the diagram from Dunhelm shows the bracket "side on" (screwed into or alongside the window frame) and in this position it would be more likely to need a 1cm gap as there is less space for the roller. However, I am probably going to leave a gap for the reason that I want to use wall plugs (unlike the video) as I am not drilling into wood under upvc and therefore I should use them as I'm into brick. There's no way at the angle he's drilling that you could get a wallplug in properly as it would be at an angle. I'll drop it a cm and use the side fittings. I think with that, it will be firmer, easier and last longer than screws into the lintel (which is very hard to drill into) which would have the weight of the blind tugging down on them all the time. Side mounted will have a lot more support of the brick itself and thus be a better job. As for the 1cm gap I am leaving, this won't be "seen" as the window frame is bigger than 1cm and of course you have the roller material which will block a lot of the gap (which is as I say the reason for the gap). I noted the plastic cover over the bracket should be removed from an inset recess fit which wasn't all that clear.
Really enjoyed this video. It helped a lot although didn't work to plan? I allowed 32 mm for brackets and 5mm for metal tubing before I cut through. The total blind following this guidance was too short, albeit it wasn't a dunelm blind. I learnt a lot from it but would just add caution, before you cut anything, hold your blind up to the window against the brackets - youll get a good idea then whether your about right with the measurements - especially before cutting and sawing! Thanks for sharing.
Yes. You need to add the 16mm + 16mm for the brackets and the rollers. Plus you need to allow for the projection of the metal tubing which is the 5mm for the one you are cutting and whatever length the other end is (in my case it was 7mm. So in my case the blind width was the total bracket width minus 16+16+7+5mm.
I was perplexed by the various measurements, why? My thoughts were that distance between brackets was key: project woudn't work if the bar was wrong length. Then deduct 2.2 CMS being the thickness of the 2 end plugs gives required pole length. The 3.2/2.7 reference presumably gives the 5mm clearance that is supplied by Dunelm at the other untrimmed side of the fabric. Whatever, this video is helpful - will review today's efforts tomorrow to try and lessen the run off problem.
Thank you! Unimpressed by the Dunelm instructions (though the online version is marginally better than the printed one). But, thanks to your video, I have a well fitted blind.
Thanks so much for this... I'm now feeling a lot more confident in blind installation! Does anybody else find our it strange that it fixes at the top as opposed to the side? This way let's more light in??
Good to find this I haven't cut my blind but I just can't insert one of the plugs. After numerous attempts I noticed the metal hollow pole is not circular its more oval 🙈 No way I've done that as I don't have the hand strength to insert the plug let alone reshape metal. I'm wondering if the mallet might force a round peg into an oval hole or if its back to Dunelm
If the metal is still the same as when I bought mine all those years back, then a mallet would probably knock the plug in, but my guess is that if you do it and it doesn't work it could invalidate a returns process with Dunelm.
Like last reviewer I cld not work out how to install dunhelm blind. This makes it lot clearer...particularly the mallet to get the roller end into the bracket.
Thank you so very much for this video. My very first time of attempting anything like this. Your video made it look so easy and I felt confident to start. Tonight I finally have a blind up that has been waiting for me to do for some time. Thank you
Great video, only problem was I wanted you to show putting the blind on to the brackets. If you look at the bracket on the ceiling there halve shaped upside down u's.. the 2 plastic fittings that go into the blind the roller one's a small square, the other sides a 10 mm circle. (don't look as though there fit??) nightmare to fit had to get a small screw diver to push the spring loaded end in, really awkward.. (dunelm's instructions are a joke)
Yeah it was the "quality" of the instructions that prompted me to make the video in the first place. Been a while now, but yeah I recollect it being difficult to get the spring in place. Pretty sure I did that exact same way of using a screwdriver to apply pressure to hold it back. I think from memory (but it is vague and fuzzy now) it's easier to fit the square side in place and then use the screwdriver on the circle side.
Please come around to my house and fit my Dunelm blinds .....😂😂😂 what a nightmare if you don’t have the confidence or tools to do this yourself . Thank you for your video
Thanks, the measuring between brackets isn't clear in the poor paper instructions supplied, and your video tells me what I need to know. Tip, I always turn my hacksaw blade the wrong way around when cutting thin tubes as it then doesn't bite on the forward stroke if I don't have a junior hacksaw.
My blind is stained approximately 6 inches from the bottom and i want to cut the stained part off. If I do so the beading bar which is stiched at the bottom will be removed . If I left it without the beading at the bottom would the cut edge of the material fray at the bottom over time.
Hi Squidgy Just looked at your video it made it so clear. Thanks. We've fitted the brackets and will be carrying on with the job tomorrow. Yes, it took us (thats the Royal 'we', a while to do that ) . Anyway when you were drilling one of the brackets the camera was on your forearm and i couldn't help notice that you had 4 freckles formed in a near perfect square. How did you do that? Amazing!
Hi, great video. Helped me put up a roller blind from Dunelm. I was wondering if you could help me with calculations if I did not want to have the 5mm of bare pipe either side of the fabric?
Glad it helped. You really need the little of bare pipe either side, as the blind will not always roll up perfectly every time, sometimes they go one way, other times they move to the other side, when rolling it back up.
@@SquidgyBidgey Thanks, I was thinking of having 1 or 2 mm of bare pipe on both sides, but the required 5 mm seems a bit excessive, but I am not sure if fiddling around with it is really worth it. The way I calculated it, instead of adding 3.2cm to the cutting (which includes the bare pipe), I would only add 2.6cm leaving 2mm bare pipe either side.
Hi mate. Great video, thanks. I have pretty much exactly the same blind from Dunelm Mill and your video is a life saver (I have lost the instructions). But there is one point I would really appreciate you clarifying... the recess measurement at about 4m30s into the video. I can see it is from under one bracket, ok, but I am uncertain about where too... the outside of the other bracket (I cant quite see in the video)? If outside and not againt the wall, exactly wheere on the bracket? Before I get cutting I just want to get it right!
its against the other wall... so it is wal to wall and then you subtract 32mm for the size of the bracket and the plastic parts you stick in the roller blind.
Yes and no. If you have something under it that you don't mind the Stanley knife going into great. For me the only space I had wide enough operate in was the kitchen floor and I didn't want to slice through into the lino.
Great clear video. But now I'd like to take the blind off so that I can paint the walls around it. How can I unclip the blind and leave the brackets in place? Thanks
once you remove the blind, you can remove the brackets, and leave a piece of matchstick in the holes, where the screws would go, this will act as a marker, so when your'e finished the painting, you remove the matchstick/ ] put the brackets back, then place the roller back onto the brackets. hope this tip helps.
Hey there. Rawlplugs weren't needed, as I was attaching it to the window frame and behind the plastic of my window frame is wooden beams that make up the support for the window, so I was essentially attaching it to wood. I'm not a glazier, so I can't say for sure that all uPVC windows would have wooden support beams beams, but at a guess I would reckon that is pretty much a standard way of fitting a window. Thus if fitting directly to the a uUPC window I don't think most installations would need Rawlplugs, but if fitting onto plasterboard then yes you will need them.
Understood. I did fit it just now without rawlplugs even though I think it was just plasterboard. What I did was add two more screws through the side of each bracket (also into plasterboard I think) and with the 4 screws in each it feels solid as a rock. Your video was really helpful and the whole job only took about 20 minutes.
5 years later and this video is still helping people out. Thanks for the upload mate. Was a real big help.
You are very welcome.
Just got the blind from Dunelm, scratching my head jumped on You tube and you my friend made me realize how simple it was..Much Appreciated and all this time later we are still being helped by you...Big Thanks
Superb video. Very easy to follow and slow and clear at every stage. Good tips on where to work (kitchen floor in his case), how to mark lines accurately, how to cut the fabric and the top and bottom rails etc. He speaks clearly and loud. Very good guide, hope I can do as well myself this afternoon.
Life saver. A gem of a video.
This helped me a non handyman to install my Dunelm blinds.
By the way anyone cutting their blinds down, measure the actual blind material, don't go by the width the packaging says. I know he mentions it but just emphasising as it almost caught me out.
Thank you so much. A very good video. So detailed
Excellent video - one of the best DIY videos on UA-cam…and not just about blinds! A craft knife with fresh blade and a long thin straight edge can also be used to trim the blind material and may leave less “jaggedy” bits but go with what you feel comfy with. I fitted a Dunelm blind about 5 years ago and nearly cut it too short by following their own instructions - this is much much better👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you very much, that is extremely kind of you to say that. I agree that a sharp craft would do the job very well. I opted out of that option (before nearly going that way) as I didn't want to cut the lino as well.
@@SquidgyBidgey Correct. I should’ve added I slid an off cut of plywood underneath so that I was cutting into that😀
Update! You gave me the confidence, and I did it! I didn't have to cut it either as it is a massive frame with a smaller window. Just added the 3.2 on. Thanks!
Thank you for this. I’ve got a dunelm blind to fit this weekend and I feel much more at ease having watched this
Hope it went well for you.
Excellent! I have two blinds to fit two adjacent windows and having fitted the brackets was about to take the blinds into my workshop to cut to size. I was a little uneasy that the dimensions I was left with after deducting the 32mm may be suspect as the instructions were not as clear as I would like. So I decided to check this on UA-cam. I'm pleased I did because I had interpreted Dunelm instructions for the cutting distance to be the distance "between" the two brackets - so I took the inside measurement between the brackets. You were quite specific in using your "blu-tack" to emphasize that it was the "outside" dimension to be used. I realize that the difference may be only 5 or 6 mm - but I'm sure that could make the difference of a blind that runs free or a blind that "Binds". I am a great believer in getting it right. So I agree with another post that your instructions should replace those of Dunelm.
Using this video really helped me put up 2 blackout blinds from Dunelm - thank you so much! A hint for others, I bought a pair of wallpaper cutting scissors from Wilkos for 95p and the long cutting blade made for a very easy cut of the fabric 👍
Good call on the scissors. Mine were fabric shears, but the wallpaper scissors are an excellent idea.
Absolutely brilliant. If only the manufacturer's instructions were half as good. Thank you for the good work
Yeah, Dunelm's instructions are only fit for the trash.
Just tried to fit a Dunelm blind following their instructions, didn't fit, too long. After searching the interweb found your vid, brilliant. Remeasured and recut ( what a faf( ) now all ok. Now for the next one. Thank you!
Dunelm should use this on their site, far better than their video.
Thanks your little piece of paper with the maths on it saved me cutting the material the wrong size, really helped as for some reason I didn’t take the size of the blind into account when deciding how much to cut off, and also the bluetac tip was great too. Thanks.
Thank you so much for your brilliant video. Though it took me several hours and rewinding your vid I finally got there and without your clear concise instructions it could have turned out badly! The blue tac kept me sane! The problem for me was that it was a bathroom blind and the sink was in the way.
Thank you this was so helpful - had no instructions for this blind (apparently there were none with it but then I didn't open the packet......) and would have had to go back to the shop or get it wrong without this - really clear and you have explained it all brilliantly, thanks again
You are welcome, glad it helped.
May 2022 and still helping! Thanks for taking the time to do an in-depth video.
Thank you for uploading this its going to help me to reposition and cut-down the dunelm roller blinds in my bathroom. The tip re the tape has been especially useful for me.💕
Thank you Squidgy !
Without doubt the worst set of instructions I’ve ever seen.
Was about to take the blind back for a refund before I found your video
Thanks again !
Great piece of work, very helpful and it also serves as a guide to uniquely Scottish words like "footery" :)
Very well explained which has helped me a lot. I have to fit blind myself as I live alone and have struggled a wee bit with this task so thank you...
Wonderful! I'm really REALLY glad the video helped you out.
Thank you so much for this. Really thorough and helpful explanation. I just cut to size and fitted my John Lewis blind. I was stumped with the instructions until I saw this!
Excellent video, the ' Leave at least 1cm gap between the top of the recess' in the instructions threw me, so I'll do mine the way you did, thanks.
Cool, glad the vid helped you out bud.
👍🏻
Any chance that you know the Brand name of this Roller Blind?
It’s exactly the same as mine, I just need to replace the plastic side that won’t turn one way.
Thanks
@@MitchCann Hi, all I can tell you is it came from Dunelm, I've just checked and there are no manufactures name or serial numbers, I don't expect that'll be much help but good luck.
The 1cm gap seems to relate to if you have the bracket side on. You need to leave the gap in that position so that the roller has enough space for the cloth. In the usual configuration as shown in the video, there's enough space to do this without a gap. Its a very poor diagram though and poorly explained.
My tip is to, before trimming the blind, remove the roller and double up the blind on your dining table, measure with set square and marker and then cut. Saves a lot of back ache and cuts down the possibility of mistakes. If the blind does not stick back satisfactorily then use thin double sided tape from hobby craft. Hobby craft do 28cm dressmaking scissors for £1.50. I used an elastic band to mark the roller. Great video by the way. Watched it twice and it was a great help.
Thank you for this very informative video. This was useful for a complete novice like me. I purchased the exact same blinds from Dunelm so discovering this video after I bought my purchase was fantastic. I successfully installed my blinds 😊.
You are welcome! I'm pleased to know it was of use to you.
This video was extremly helpful - my Dunelm sheer blinds , all 4 of them are now hanging up nicely:) i wouldnt have managed to cut to size without you! Thank you
Glad it helped!
Great video, one minor point is to put the springy plain end into the bracket first then you can use the weight of the blind itself as well as holding it to depress the springy end, which then allows you to fit the fixed mechanism end.
Very helpful video gave me more confidence to cut mine down. I’m doing our conservatory so have 8 blinds to do!!
Great point! Ouch 8 blinds, that's a lot of work. Hope it all went smoothly.
The best thank I learnt from your tutorial as how to mask a pole before cutting to make it perfectly even. Thanks for posting
You're very welcome!
Just purchased a new property, and one of these blinds. great video! fully appreciate the time you've taken to make this :)
Cool. Glad the video was useful for you.
A very helpful video showing every step in detail. Thank you.
K-I-S-S, Yes, the old adage, Keep it simple and straightforward! Even an auld yin like me appreciates seeing the handy wee tips from someone else. Dunelm's printed instructions aren't absolutely clear, even confusing, so your video was well worth watching more than once. Explained the process out to cover every step very clearly. Weel done big man!
The new brackets have a plastic backing. These add 5mm to each side so the amount to be removed is 42mm not 32mm.
Is that for every blind on every window? X
Actually, these brackets have a removable plastic backing, so If you are fitting inside the frame you just remove then and the same original measurements apply.
Thanks, I'm fitting a blind today, also from Dunelm. I'm feeling a lot more confident :)
thanks for the video. I have now successfully put up my son's blackout blind from Dunelm.
A brilliant "how to" video. Every step in logical sequence and optional tips.
(I won't be fitting the annoying safety device either - personal circumstances and common sense dictate, though I will keep then in case we sell the house or circumstances change).
The only issue I have is cutting the fabric - I always prefer a straight edge and craft knife/scalpel. It guarantees no ragged edge.
Anyway, thank you - superbly clear,
Very helpful, thanks. Just fitted a Dunelm blackout blind and the instructions said measure the width and deduct 32 but as John Woffard noted this is wrong, it will be too wide to fit onto the recessed brackets. Had to re-cut another c. 8 mm off.
Thank you that’s brilliant just bought a roller blind from Dunelm yesterday and if can do this will be fitting about 5 more which are a fraction the cost of made to measure
Much much better than the Dunelm video. Thanks
you are very welcome. Good luck with fitting your blinds.
thanks a lot for doing this video. helped me massively today putting up our new blind!
+Paul L You are very welcome.
Excellent video!! I won't have to wait for my other half to fit the blind now! So glad you showed us how to cut the blind to size as well, that's the part I was worried about the most 😊
NEVER rely on men!
Many thanks - well explained and illustrated - Blu-Tac is now in my tool box.Keep up the good work,Keith
Hey just wanted to say a big thank you. It was so helpful & so well explained!
you are very welcome
We've just moved in to our first owned house and have some blinds to fit. This was very informative, thank you, but can I ask why you didn't use wall plugs when fitting the brackets? I've been told anything in the wall should use a plug otherwise it will not be secure for the long term. Thanks!
Hey. Congrats on the 1st home.
If you are drilling into wood you don't need plugs as the wood will support the screw. It's that long since I fitted the blind I cant remember, but likely there is a wooden joist where I put the brackets. If you are attaching something to a cavity wall or a block wall then yes plugs are the way to go. Different plugs are used for different types.
@@SquidgyBidgey Hey, Thanks so much for your reply! That makes sense. So far we've only drilled a couple of holes for curtain poles and they've all been into plasterboard so we've used the suitable plugs for that. I hadn't thought about if it were straight into a wooden joint.
Nice clear video, I now feel brave enough to look for a blind to install! Cheers!!
So much better than the instructional video that the sellers provide, they don't even show the cutting part!
Thanks for putting that together. I am getting ready to replace the shades in my camper (campervan/caravan?), and found your presentation very helpful.
+pcsheets Thank you, glad the vid is of use to you.
It seems to me that when the blind is actually clipped into the brackets it should be non control end first. That allows for the sprung piece to be pushed in using the blind itself and for the control end to be put in place.
Brilliant video saved me a headache! Very comprehensive,Dunelm should include his instructions with their blinds
Thank you
LOL. Thank you, glad it was of use to you.
I have a roller blind but 2 we plastic bits but don't fit any ware a in bracket can't get the chain to move can you help plz
Thanks mate, worked a treat and thanks especially for all the invaluable tips about how to do a really professional job :)
Thanks! Even the Dunhelm video was unclear on all these steps. I didn't really understand why you had to do the 3.2 cm cut before this. Why isn't it just 3.2 shorter to start with? Fingers crossed I can't mess this one up.( last one was a failure).
great video - thank goodness I watched before trying to fit the blind I bought!
Very good. Remember though to measure the blind width, mine was 1 cm less than shown on the package
Hello. I'm a bit confused. The instructions say to leave at least 1cm gap between the top of the recess when positioning the brackets (inside the recess) but I see you've fitted yours flush. Can you please clarify/advice? Thank you
I'm going to reply to this in case some other person like me asks the same question. It does say to do this on the Dunelm instructions and I think it is so that you can ensure that you have plenty of space for the cloth to wind around the roller. This will depend on your drop as to how much cloth you have as to whether you will need it or not. I positioned my roller on the brackets (before fitting) and could tell I wouldn't need to leave a gap of 1cm to the top of the window. In addition, the diagram from Dunhelm shows the bracket "side on" (screwed into or alongside the window frame) and in this position it would be more likely to need a 1cm gap as there is less space for the roller.
However, I am probably going to leave a gap for the reason that I want to use wall plugs (unlike the video) as I am not drilling into wood under upvc and therefore I should use them as I'm into brick. There's no way at the angle he's drilling that you could get a wallplug in properly as it would be at an angle. I'll drop it a cm and use the side fittings. I think with that, it will be firmer, easier and last longer than screws into the lintel (which is very hard to drill into) which would have the weight of the blind tugging down on them all the time. Side mounted will have a lot more support of the brick itself and thus be a better job.
As for the 1cm gap I am leaving, this won't be "seen" as the window frame is bigger than 1cm and of course you have the roller material which will block a lot of the gap (which is as I say the reason for the gap). I noted the plastic cover over the bracket should be removed from an inset recess fit which wasn't all that clear.
very much appreciate that video. excellent help for me. your clear explanation step by step was highly instructive. thank you.
+charliecheeze1 You are very welcome.
Thanks I have a pair of these blinds about to go up and needed a diy confidence boost. Now it's time to impress my expectant wife!
Cool. Glad the vid helped and if the baby is now here, congrats, if not congrats for when it arrives.
That’s very well put together video. Thanks
Really enjoyed this video. It helped a lot although didn't work to plan? I allowed 32 mm for brackets and 5mm for metal tubing before I cut through. The total blind following this guidance was too short, albeit it wasn't a dunelm blind. I learnt a lot from it but would just add caution, before you cut anything, hold your blind up to the window against the brackets - youll get a good idea then whether your about right with the measurements - especially before cutting and sawing! Thanks for sharing.
Yes. You need to add the 16mm + 16mm for the brackets and the rollers. Plus you need to allow for the projection of the metal tubing which is the 5mm for the one you are cutting and whatever length the other end is (in my case it was 7mm. So in my case the blind width was the total bracket width minus 16+16+7+5mm.
I was perplexed by the various measurements, why? My thoughts were that distance between brackets was key: project woudn't work if the bar was wrong length. Then deduct 2.2 CMS being the thickness of the 2 end plugs gives required pole length. The 3.2/2.7 reference presumably gives the 5mm clearance that is supplied by Dunelm at the other untrimmed side of the fabric. Whatever, this video is helpful - will review today's efforts tomorrow to try and lessen the run off problem.
Thank you! Unimpressed by the Dunelm instructions (though the online version is marginally better than the printed one). But, thanks to your video, I have a well fitted blind.
Good vid. However would have liked to know where 32mm cut off measurement came from
Thanks for this. Brilliant tutorial. Helped me put up my blinds
You're welcome!
Thanks so much for this... I'm now feeling a lot more confident in blind installation!
Does anybody else find our it strange that it fixes at the top as opposed to the side? This way let's more light in??
Good to find this
I haven't cut my blind but I just can't insert one of the plugs. After numerous attempts I noticed the metal hollow pole is not circular its more oval 🙈
No way I've done that as I don't have the hand strength to insert the plug let alone reshape metal. I'm wondering if the mallet might force a round peg into an oval hole or if its back to Dunelm
If the metal is still the same as when I bought mine all those years back, then a mallet would probably knock the plug in, but my guess is that if you do it and it doesn't work it could invalidate a returns process with Dunelm.
Thanks for responding
I will probably contact Dunelm first then and send a photo
I'm only at the start of the process
Like last reviewer I cld not work out how to install dunhelm blind. This makes it lot clearer...particularly the mallet to get the roller end into the bracket.
Thank you, I'm very pleased that the video helped you out.
For those with paintwork to preserve , a thin piece of plastic between the chuck and the wall will avoid the bodge @3:18
Thank you so very much for this video. My very first time of attempting anything like this. Your video made it look so easy and I felt confident to start. Tonight I finally have a blind up that has been waiting for me to do for some time. Thank you
Thanks for sharing this, the instructions were useless for a first-timer needing to trim and fit. Huge help!
Glad it helped!
Excellent video of how to fit a Dunelm blind. Much better than Dunelms own
Great video, only problem was I wanted you to show putting the blind on to the brackets. If you look at the bracket on the ceiling there halve shaped upside down u's.. the 2 plastic fittings that go into the blind the roller one's a small square, the other sides a 10 mm circle. (don't look as though there fit??) nightmare to fit had to get a small screw diver to push the spring loaded end in, really awkward.. (dunelm's instructions are a joke)
Yeah it was the "quality" of the instructions that prompted me to make the video in the first place.
Been a while now, but yeah I recollect it being difficult to get the spring in place. Pretty sure I did that exact same way of using a screwdriver to apply pressure to hold it back.
I think from memory (but it is vague and fuzzy now) it's easier to fit the square side in place and then use the screwdriver on the circle side.
Please come around to my house and fit my Dunelm blinds .....😂😂😂 what a nightmare if you don’t have the confidence or tools to do this yourself . Thank you for your video
Thanks, the measuring between brackets isn't clear in the poor paper instructions supplied, and your video tells me what I need to know.
Tip, I always turn my hacksaw blade the wrong way around when cutting thin tubes as it then doesn't bite on the forward stroke if I don't have a junior hacksaw.
great video, thank you for taking the time to make it - I have bought a set from Dunelm so this is just the help I needed 🤘
Cool, glad the vid was of use to you.
Thanks a lot for this. You have taught me so much today.
Happy to help!
The Blu-Tac tip was most useful ... I'll certainly use it. 😸
Thanks very much just bought one feel a lot happier doing it now
Totally brilliant video Top man thank you so much
Thanks for the help m8 Cheers that's 3 times now on different occasions 👍
Fabulously clear, precise and very helpful - thank you squidgy
My blind is stained approximately 6 inches from the bottom and i want to cut the stained part off. If I do so the beading bar which is stiched at the bottom will be removed . If I left it without the beading at the bottom would the cut edge of the material fray at the bottom over time.
Hi Squidgy
Just looked at your video it made it so clear. Thanks. We've fitted the brackets and will be carrying on with the job tomorrow. Yes, it took us (thats the Royal 'we', a while to do that ) . Anyway when you were drilling one of the brackets the camera was on your forearm and i couldn't help notice that you had 4 freckles formed in a near perfect square. How did you do that? Amazing!
Great Video. Very precise how to cut and hang a roller blind.
Thank you, you are welcome.
Hi, great video. Helped me put up a roller blind from Dunelm. I was wondering if you could help me with calculations if I did not want to have the 5mm of bare pipe either side of the fabric?
Glad it helped. You really need the little of bare pipe either side, as the blind will not always roll up perfectly every time, sometimes they go one way, other times they move to the other side, when rolling it back up.
@@SquidgyBidgey Thanks, I was thinking of having 1 or 2 mm of bare pipe on both sides, but the required 5 mm seems a bit excessive, but I am not sure if fiddling around with it is really worth it.
The way I calculated it, instead of adding 3.2cm to the cutting (which includes the bare pipe), I would only add 2.6cm leaving 2mm bare pipe either side.
Excellent can't wait to install you have made perfect sense of this x thank you x
You’re welcome 😊
Hi mate. Great video, thanks. I have pretty much exactly the same blind from Dunelm Mill and your video is a life saver (I have lost the instructions). But there is one point I would really appreciate you clarifying... the recess measurement at about 4m30s into the video. I can see it is from under one bracket, ok, but I am uncertain about where too... the outside of the other bracket (I cant quite see in the video)? If outside and not againt the wall, exactly wheere on the bracket? Before I get cutting I just want to get it right!
its against the other wall... so it is wal to wall and then you subtract 32mm for the size of the bracket and the plastic parts you stick in the roller blind.
Thank you precise instructions enabled me to get it right first time.👍
You are very welcome. Glad it helped.
The best
For cutting the blind down (17.2cm in this case) Im guessing you can hold a spirit level along the line and run a Stanley blade along it?
Yes and no. If you have something under it that you don't mind the Stanley knife going into great. For me the only space I had wide enough operate in was the kitchen floor and I didn't want to slice through into the lino.
Thank you so much for this video, it's really well explained and helped me to successfully put up my first ever blind!
+Sarah Bush You are very welcome. Glad the vid helped.
Thanks love listening to that accent - so melodic 😁👌
Thank you very much
Great clear video. But now I'd like to take the blind off so that I can paint the walls around it. How can I unclip the blind and leave the brackets in place? Thanks
once you remove the blind, you can remove the brackets, and leave a piece of matchstick in the holes, where the screws would go, this will act as a marker, so when your'e finished the painting, you remove the matchstick/ ] put the brackets back, then place the roller back onto the brackets. hope this tip helps.
Superb Video - Thanks !
Can’t fault you mate. Brilliant video.
Cheers buddy.
Brilliant! Just what I needed! Took me all day, mind....
You're welcome and at least you got there.
An excellent video but nowhere did I see the use of rawlplugs in the wall. Is it really strong enough just to screw into the plasterboard?
Hey there. Rawlplugs weren't needed, as I was attaching it to the window frame and behind the plastic of my window frame is wooden beams that make up the support for the window, so I was essentially attaching it to wood. I'm not a glazier, so I can't say for sure that all uPVC windows would have wooden support beams beams, but at a guess I would reckon that is pretty much a standard way of fitting a window. Thus if fitting directly to the a uUPC window I don't think most installations would need Rawlplugs, but if fitting onto plasterboard then yes you will need them.
Understood. I did fit it just now without rawlplugs even though I think it was just plasterboard. What I did was add two more screws through the side of each bracket (also into plasterboard I think) and with the 4 screws in each it feels solid as a rock. Your video was really helpful and the whole job only took about 20 minutes.
Cool. Glad it helped.
Excellent presentation. Very clear
Thank you kindly!
Thank you, very helpful.
Great video. Just what I needed with many tips I just had not thought of. Thank you.
Great video , would you ever want the blind down with such stunning scenery out there anyway
Brilliant video 👍
Thank you...Now I know what to do.Great video.
Glad to help
Really useful video!! Big thanks!! 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative mate thanks for uploading!
4:15 my man has 4 freckles in a perfect square
Really helpful and clear thank you.
Loved it.. very detailed guide .. thankyou 😊