I'm approaching 80 quite a bit older than you. But I sure liked your video. It makes me feel good to see you youngsters recognizing value in things that others think is junk. And your approach to repair using other used stuff was great. I would have done a few things different but you didn't do it to make all the critics happy you did it to make you and the saw happy. YOU WERE A SUCCESS!
Sir, I completely agree with you. The machines made from the early 20th century into the 1960s were made to last, and for the most part built by Americans who took pride in their work. There has been a bit of a renaissance with these old machines and I think it is because people are tired of spending their hard-earned money on something made of plastic and "mystery metal", only to have it break a few months later. There are some who just have to buy the newest models and that's your prerogative, but personally, I would rather save my money and buy quality such as these old cast iron saws, drill presses, etc. I recently purchased a Dewalt 991 Radial arm saw and the restoration is almost complete. I even found a place that still makes the same type of machine paint for the 991 models. Plus, there is no complicated computer chip you have to deal with, just good old steel, and cast iron.
Ran a cabinet business for about 9 years and used one of those saws to rip thousands and thousands of bf of oak mostly. Only thing that ever went wrong with it was that pulley always trying to come off the shaft. Finally sold it and got a unisaw. That old Craftsman stuff was good up until about the 70 when they went to reducing the quality and it started going down hill. I still have one of the old good radial arm saw that I used for cross cutting and dado work. Good stuff. Plain old Johnsons floor wax is great for all cast iron. Makes it slick and it's fast and easy to apply. One can will last for 10 years. Some of the wobble and shaking can be eliminated with paying attention to getting a balanced pulley and one of those adjustable link belts. You are doing good. Hard to beat old Delta, Craftsman, Rockwell, Porter Cable, etc. Made back when Americans gave a shit.
Nice save! I have a very similar Craftsman saw my father bought new in 1956. 2 years older than I am. I use it almost every day. Original motor and fence. Only has casters in the back.
I bought an 8" Craftsman at a salvage store and restored it. In the process, I watched a bunch of UA-cam videos of people restoring the 10" model; I had to have one! Interestingly enough, I walked out my front door one morning, and saw my neighbor dragging his old 10" Craftsman to the curb; I got it for free. Now fully restored it is fantastic.
Good job! Now you have a saw for the ages. My first 'best' table saw was a Craftsman 10" and I used it for years. A sharp blade is your greatest accessory.
Hi, PA woodworker here. My dad's 9" Craftsman is in my crawlspace and I've been toying with the idea of restoring it and selling my Delta 10" contractors saw. Your video just added fuel to the fire, thanks, I didn't think I'd see a video on this old beast.
Great thing about these saws is that there are millions of them out there for spare parts. I’ve got one that I used for 30-35 years in my cabinet shop. It’s not exactly stock though. Doubled pulleys and belts, increased rpm’s x1000, increased motor hp, inserted into 8’x8’ table with air cushion system, different fence and rail system, converted motor to 220v. A real hybrid saw but the same basic tool. It’s served me well and made me many buck$. They’re pretty much indestructible with a minimum amount of maintenance.
I have one of those old Craftsman 10" saws, bought new by my father-in-law in 1954--68 years ago. I use it all the time. I upgraded the fence only. Tip--never hammer a pulley onto a shaft--you will regret it someday when you might have to remove it. Great video.
I concur they are a diamond in the rough. FYI you installed the blade nut backwards the shoulder goes towards the blade washer. I’ve rebuilt (including new bearings) and modified them new motors rip fence, miter gauge, and proper setup I’ll match them up against any table saw for accuracy* I’ve built and will build cabinetry, fine furniture, ... If you continue to use that rip fence Make Sure that it is square to the blade nasty kickback can occur, I can tell you about that. *my Delta UniSaw as comparison
Hey brother I just want to say thank you for rescued this beautiful CRAFTSMAN table saw...I was just given one to me from a coworker that was going to be tossed for scrap metal...Again thank you so much for this video and for not throwing it away for scrap...
If you have to hit switches with your knee I question your safety practices. There's a light switch on my table saw but it only arms the electrical controls. You have to flip that switch then hit the start button. But flipping the light switch off will shut the saw down. That's how I usually turn it off. I use a contactor to switch the saw motor. The light switch powers a transformer that energizes the latching relay coils. It's complicated.
My Dad had that same saw! Built his house, all the cabinets, and tons of other cabinets and projects with it. When he passed in 94, my older brother inherited it, (I wanted it, but he got first dibs), and still has it to this day. A good saw.
Should you decide to do some more work on the saw, a couple things to consider. The table top can be removed from the frame by removing four bolts. This allows you to flip the table upside down for easier access to the arbor and tilt mechanisms. If you reverse the pulley on the arbor, you can get the pulley to ride on the undamaged portion of the arbor, improving the pulley stability. Of course, the proper solution is to remove the arbor, inspect the bearings for damage, and have the shaft welded up and machined to the right diameter for a new pulley mount. Good luck. I've got two of these and they're fine for home use.
I actually have one of these! It is a real workhorse! Good on you for saving it for future generations to appreciate! Mine has been through so many blades in the last 55 years I have lost count long ago.
Wonderful video. That is a beast of a saw. I' m sure it will give you years of service. They made things to last in those days! I think that over the years you'll modify the saw but the basic saw is just awesome. Thanks for posting.
Those saws were designed to have open bottoms so the dust could fall out into a bin or on the floor. I recommend making the bottom of your cart a drawer of some kind to collect the dust. And I recommend making it twice the size you think you'll need. It's amazing how much wood a table saw turns into dust / shavings.
I have a Cast iron Craftsman saw like that one and built a solid cabinet base for it and well as a huge table top that adds onto the cast iron top from both sides and the front output area. So now that saw is basically a cabinet saw that you can cut full sheets of material on it and know it will product extremely accurate cuts. The top table was made out of MDF with laminate Formica top glued on. Smooth and very easy to cut huge sections of wood now. I also replace the bearings and arbor shaft to make it as precise and it can get. And than bought a Biesemeyer fence that extends the entire width of the table, and it is an amazing table saw...
Very nice restoration project. I am currently restoring a band saw and a 6 1/8th inch jointer. The band saw is from 1982, and I think the jointer is from the late 70's. I completely rewired both from the motor, all the way out to the plug, and added new paddle style power switches as well.
This is a fantastic find. I'm glad you fixed it up instead of scrapping the saw. This saw is light years better quality than any brand new saw you could buy today. Its actually slightly an older model than my newer saw. But I actually have one much older that I need to get setup someday. I would highly recommend to trace out the inside of your saw cavity at the bottom opening against the plywood base and then cut that out to allow the sawdust to come out the bottom. Then use a commercially available sawdust chute in there to channel the dust to the back or side of the cabinet without building up on your bottom shelf. You could also attract a dust vacuum to that device if you had one. Doing so will make it 1,000 times easier to clean out your sawdust from inside that cavity. Happy woodworking!
Made in USA Glad to see all these comments. I made a video of all the saws I wanted to find new homes for and no responses. It is cool to see that people enjoy old tools more than ever. tHanks for the great video!
I just finished a rebuild of my dad's 1969 Craftsman 113... pulled part, cleaned, new link belt (huge improvement with vibration), rebuilt his rolling stand, etc. I added 2 more 12" cast extensions and a 15" cast router table wing, along with new paddle power switch and cord. A new Delta 36-T30 T4 fence system rounded things out, offsetting the mount to permit 36.5" of rip to the right and 10" to the left. I highly recommend the fence. Since the fence does not permit the original splitter, I went with a MicroJig MJ setup and splurged on a Jessem Stock Guide system... huge improvements to safety. This beast will last another 50 years and you can't get anything close to it in a metal saw these days (everything is resin or plastic now).
If you are working to get a pully on a shaft you can freeze the shaft and or heat the pully. It'll slide right on then mate well once the temp equalizes. Banging on the shaft like you were can damage the bearings that support the arbor.
My old man had one of these. It went with him from Roswell to El Paso, to St. Thomas, to Corpus Christi, to El Paso again, to Anchorage, and he had it when he died in Hillsboro NM at 75. :-)
My grandfather had one like this (It might have been smaller but the layout was the same. He put an outfeed table about 16" wide and 4' long with a built in drum sander. He turned a piece of wood about 3" in diameter and put a pulley on one end and mounted it into the feed table. He glue sandpaper around the drum and just switched the drive belt from the saw to the drum when he wanted to surface sand something. You are right about these old machines. I am still using and 80 year Delta 8" saw as a cutoff saw with an abrasive blade.
First off i thought u bought a new pully second never beat any kind of pully sprocket hub with a metal hammer man a little time and effort you could've cleaned that pully up and slipped it right on but glad to see a young man working and trying best of luck to u i also have same saw use it everyday still works as it should best tool for my shop i have ever bought
I have an old craftsman table saw as well, 1st thing change out those 2 cast aluminum pullies/wheels to steel, I got mine on Amazon, and then change out the V-Belt to a Link- Belt. It took all of the Vibration away, this table saw is so smooth running and runs so buttery quite, good luck & be safe
Thanks for this video. I enjoyed it. I myself restored an old vintage Craftsman table saw and encountered some of the same problems you did, but you powered through. I didn’t know Craftsman even had a jointer add-on. I will look for one to purchase. Thanks!
I still have my 1961 10" Craftsman table saw that belonged to my dad. New motor, link belt, pulleys, new spindle. Added extensions and a router table, enclosed base and saw dust collection in my shop. Still going strong!
I think the saw I have is a 1969? It still has the turned metal looking skirt on it. I got it for $20 with no motor on it. It looks to have low miles on it to me. They burned the motor out and it just sat. I put a Rockwell TEFC motor on it. I run a link belt too. It's real smooth.
@@mhughes1160 I think my 1948 may have an original switch on it? I can't say I'm a fan. I made a magnetic contactor switch for my 1969. It's push button. I made it out of junk furnace parts. There's an article I wrote about it on a website called instructables. It is titled, "Homebrew Magnetic Motor Starter"
Nice work friend. Those old Craftsman table saws will outlive us all. Especially with some TLC and maintenance like you're doing. She'll serve you for a life time. Keep up the videos.
I'm 64 and still use my Craftsman almost every day, I actually bought it for $75 about 10 years ago, haven't had to put a dime into it except normal maintenance. Best of luck to you, you'll never find more satisfaction than a job completed with your own hands.
I owned an 8" version of this beast, and it was old when I bought it in the mid-80s. I hope you are planning on reattaching the 4" jointer too. Mine had a bar on the motor mount that allowed you to slide the motor over, use a little clamp with a hex in it, and connect to the jointer. Yours seems to have the second pulley out far enough to connect directly though. Gave mine to a friend, as I had a newer saw and jointer, but that puppy got me through some nice projects! Nice find!
from what I have read everyone has covered most everything like grounding the electrical and moving the switch and the type of switch then opening up underneath the saw for dust collection and one thing that is very important is the wheels you put, there must be only two wheels and two legs with rubber pad feet ,no matter if you have locking wheels you will be chasing that saw all over the shop and you don't need to be doing that and trying to keep all your fingers attached, keep up the good work and make it a point to learn something new every day and then your lite will get brighter every day
i havd an old delta saw very similar to yours, i got it for free the arbor was trashed on both ends so i had to remove it weld it up and machine it back to spec in my lathe it works great now and good grief its heavy!! no home owner saws are made so good now days!!!!
Great accomplishment...I have two of those saws bolted together. I use one for ripping, the other for crosscut or using a molding head for making trim and other stuff. I got both my saws, motors etc. from the dump, with extra wings, for less that $50. GET THE WINGS for that saw! It will give you a LOT more versatility. Wings came in two styles...stamped sheet steel and 'skeleton' cast aluminum ones. Once everything is aligned, you're on your way. UPGRADES: Much better 10 inch saw blades! A segmented belt (smoother power, quieter, available from Harbor Freight) When you get the chance, make a better fence...look up BIESEMEYER fences. And you can make a number of accessories from plywood: tenon fences (for cutting tenons). zero-clearance inserts for the top, so you get less tear out when cutting wood. A cross-cut table for more accurate cuts, and easier. That jointer accessory is kinda rare. You could sell it for bucks, but might be better off keeping it and learning how to use it.
I have that exact saw. My mom purchased it new as an anniversary present for my dad in the 60's. Even has the original wings. Put balanced pulleys and a link belt on it. Will run significantly smoother. Good luck!
WHEN MY OLDEST GRANDSON BOUGHT A HOUSE IT WAS A FIXER UPPER! AT THIS TIME OUR LOCAL AUCTION BARN HAD A PORTABLE TABLE SAW WHICH I SCORED LOW BUCKS AND GAVE TO HIM. HE ALSO MADE A BEAUTIFUL PINE KITCHEN TABLE PLAIN BUT QUITE WELL BUILT! LATER AT THE SAME AUCTION I BOUGHT ONE FOR HIS YOUNGER BROTHER! HIS YOUNGER BROTHER HAS GOTTEN IN TO HOME REHAB WORK AND BUSY!! PROUD OF THEM BOTH
I picked up a circa 1958 craftsman table saw with both cast iron table extensions. I bought a harbor freight pedestal and a new 1 HP motor and it runs like a top. Yours appears to be an early to mid-sixties version. These are great tools and will serve a lifetime or two.
@@jimk4267 -My dad's Craftsman was purchased in 1972, but it was never bequiffed to me. Still, I am happy with the late 50's version I have now, it was treated with love and respect. Hopefully, it will still be around when I give it away to the next enthusiast and if I'm lucky I get to see the smile on their face knowing that they have an awesome saw.
I have an almost identical Craftsman table saw that my dad bought around 1961 or so. The difference between mine and yours is my drive belt is on the right side. The motor that came with it looks just like yours. I replaced it with a 3 hp that was given to me and made a buffer out of the original motor. I actually have 5 of the original table extensions but am making a router top to replace two on the left side to hold my Craftsman router in a JessEm Rout-R-Lift. I did buy a Delta fence kit to replace the original fence as well .I suspect the arbor bearings on yours may need replacing as mine is nowhere near that loud when running. The only repair I have done is that same pulley which actually split in two on mine.
Had the same table saw given to me about 10 years ago I have used it to completely remodel my house and now I'm looking to add a better fence and make some furniture with it Mine didn't come with the jointer I got an old delta jointer I'm in the middle of restoring it as well 🙃
I inherited a simulator saw from my dad... my mom bought it from a guy in 55. Dad used it to build our house, and remodeled a couple others. It needs a cart like you have, heavy as heck to move around. You need to cut a hole in the bottom of the table for saw dust to fall out of. Nice job! P.S. if you ever get ambitious, you should replace the romex with S.O. cord. Romex shouldn't be used like a cord. But you're absolutely right about the wiring "hook" around the screws and the grounding..👍
My granddad had one of these and he built everything from a playhouse with the scrap lumber from his night watchman job at MCRD San Diego to his 1800 square foot dream home in Montague, Calif, where he milled all of the lumber out of 16 inch square redwood stickers he acquired from a mill that was being torn down near Yreka, Calif
I have had this very saw for about 20 years, it is very accurate, I have the side extensions , if it is necessary to move it there must be at least 2 people or it must be disassembled 👍🤗
I had to chuckle when you showed the bolts for attaching the saw frame to the table. You said you had taken them from a recent project but you couldn't remember the project. I had a similar thought this week while making wheel weights for my garden tractor out of old brake rotors. I found 1/2 inch carriage boots in my 1/2 inch bolt bucket but I couldn't recall where they came from. I attributed my forgetfulness to being 70 years old but it can't be that if you have the same difficulty. I agree with @bsteleven below that it is great to see young guys fixing up used machines and letting them continue working. That ethic will serve you well.
I've got the same Craftsman 10" saw or, at least, a similar model. Mine has the cast iron extension wings that bolt on. Got the saw from my dad. I also have a Jet cabinet saw. The Jet saw is my go to for everyday use. I set the Craftsman up when I'm doing certain machining processes that may take several days to finish and I don't want to move anything. I remodeled my kitchen and I had to build about 20 shaker style drawer fronts and cabinet doors. I set the blade height, angle, and fence and left it until I had all the parts cut. Took a couple of weeks of catching a few here and there when I had time. During that time I used the Jet saw for various other things. The Craftsman is a good table saw but I wouldn't go so far as to say it's the best ever made. Mine vibrated like crazy so I bought a segmented V-belt. It is much smoother now but there's still a little vibration in it. I have a feeling it might be an arbor bearing but I haven't looked at it yet. Also, just as an FYI, if you mount the electrical boxes to the metal frame you only need to connect the ground at one spot. Maybe the person who originally wired those boxes was going with that in mind in the beginning (they obviously didn't do it correctly). That jointer attachment is pretty cool. Wish I had one.
a few years ago i got hold of that exact saw as well as the 4" planer to match . you are correct , i got so tired of moving that stuff out of my way i gave it to a scrapper to get it gone . im sure he still has it .
I have used this same table saw for over 35 years. I bought it used. A few years ago I bought a second one since I have two shops. I am 78. I have built a lot of furniture. I wish that I could give a tutorial on safety that I have learned. I recommend that you build a table extension over motor.
For the table, treat it with auto paste wax. Keeps it from rusting and helps the wood travel a lot smoother. The plywood under the saw is going to hold sawdust. A collection bin will help contain it.
Hi, I bought a 1942 8” Craftsman saw in 1977 and have been using it off and on since then. When I retired in 2019 I bought a 10” Delta table saw but I keep that little Craftsman around because having a second table saw can be handy. For instance when the big saw is all set up for a dado cut but I need to make a different cut I have the 8” ready to go. The 8” doesn’t have any of the original guards and the blade is fully exposed but using extreme caution with a table saw goes without saying. BTW finding 8” blades with a 1/2” arbor is impossible but I did find reducers to place in the blade’s 5/8” hole that work.
Having wired my entire house, 2 shops and a garage, I feel "qualified" to comment on your table saw wiring. I have also wired 3 router tables and 3 - 240 volt table saws. The wiring to the motor is the "life blood" of the saw. Inadequate supply wiring will overheat the motor and cause it to fail prematurely. What you have done is freshen up the existing wiring and reuse the existing switch and plug. It's great that you eliminated the extension cord, a common source of voltage drop and not enough current supplied to the motor. HOWEVER, I would never run a tablesaw motor using a plug to an outlet controlled by that type of switch. That plug looked very shabby from what I could tell. So it would be best to run the motor supply wire directly to the switch, no outlet, in order to have fewer connections. To further improve the safety aspect, get the switch out from under the front of the cabinet so it's more accessible without looking. There will come a time when you must shut the saw OFF without releasing your hand from the workpiece. There are "SAFETY PADDLE" switches that you can mount at hip level so you can bump the saw off using your hip or upper leg. I do this all the time and it's become second nature. FWIW, I purchased a saw of that vintage when I was 18 years old., a Craftsman 100. I used it fpr 45 years before I said that's enough and used the motor and table for another project.
They were indeed good saws. I had one back in the 70's. The old ones were good. But then I traded up for a Walker Turner. Not really fair to compare the old Craftsman to a true cabinet saw, but the WT had it's issues too. (poor design on the fence). Then I got a unisaw, and a PM66. Both were better still. Got rid of the Uni' fence and put a Biezemeyer fence on it. Great saw. Then I got an older F&E dual Arbor, which was really a fine saw, (16" blades) but the PO had modified it and basically made is not a good saw. Now I have an Oliver 270D, which is a really fine saw. 3 phase, swings a 16" blade (but normally only a 14"). Everything is great about it. Is it the best? There is always something better. I've used a Martin and that is really great, but I'm 75 now and this one will be the last "new to me" table saw I get. But you should go on the OWWM site and see what folks have done to restore all these old wonderful machines..... nice job
Time to build the 4x8 table using melamine 3/4 sheet plywood ,with cutout for exact fit and size flush with table saw top.and if you can afford it buy a speed lock fence made with translucent white food grade phenolic easy glide board.like they use for butcher blocks and commercial kitchens.you can get some of that stock and make your own.order a tape measuring stick on strip to see your exact fence to blade measurement.also need to make a zero play plat insert to fit exactly out of hard maple.then turn on saw and slowly raise your blade height .that will make less splintering,less ragged edges on cuts,much safer.keeos small pieces that are cut or just slide or vibrate off of wood piece and fall into blade potentially causing all kinds of damage ,loss of eyesight.thats really the next mandatory item even before the cut out table..but the table is nice to support your work as it exists blade.need a little stand with a 12 in wide roller on it to support the long boards.
Great start my friend, I’m not sure if you edited the footage a bunch but I sure hope you got that uotlet grounded before you buttoned it up and started cutting. Best of luck on your endeavors. I wish I could find good deals like that here in Japan.
My Grandfather had the same unit. I replaced the pulleys and added a link belt, & zero clearance insert. Works like a champ. While it takes a few passes to cut 8/4 Walnut it cuts everything else ok if I slow it down a bit. Not a fan of the base but I’ll figure out something for dust collection. A dust bag helped some. Plan to replace it with a plywood bin with a dust port. Then let the cyclone sort it out. Good video
I picked up one of these a few years ago for free. Motor was shot but I was able to put on a 2 hp motor from hobo freight. That and a diablo blade, now it rips. Only used it once, now it sits in storage again.
Nice video. I'm older now but when I started I got a hold of whatever old saws I could find and fixed them up. I still use an old Craftsman saw. I also collect older hardware wherever I can find it. I was wondering about your placement of the switchbox. In the video it appears that maybe it might be in the path of the blade tilt mechanism.
I bolt 2 or 3 of these saws edge to edge for a 60 inch WIDE cast iron table & 2 or 3 setups. You can put a dadoe head on one, a RIP blade on another, & crosscut on the other. It gives you the option of 2 or 3 different operations. The pick off fence works any place on the table. Also use segment drive belts to minimize vibration.
Older tablesaws are money-makers for carpenters and cabinetmakers! The bearings and trunions are high quality.i have a 1970 Sears 10" in my shop.Romex wire is for the Country.Shielded cable or pipe is for Urban areas------Psalm 100.
I gotta say I'm proud of you attempting to dive into something new to you!!! Job well done. Could you have done things a little better? Yep and at nearly 70 Y.O. I can say the same about myself. I still need help with things, I still make mistakes, BUT... I also still learn tricks and tips each day if I'm lucky!!! I have two of those same saws in my shop. One I wrapped a 48 x73 inch bench around with cabinets underneath, sitting on locking casters, and also extending the fence system to rip to 30+ inches. All I did for the fence was replace the angle iron ones with matching size longer ones and put new tape measure tapes on them.... certainly I don't care for the back angle iron creating a long hole in the table along the back edge of the saw, but I wasn't going to put a new expensive fence system on an old 1-1/2 saw. What is amazing to me is.... it works very well Johnson Floor wax every metal table top in your shop and things will slide very nice. Replace the flip switch with a paddle switch moving it out towards the front for quick access will make things better/safer, and take your electrical box and mount it in a place that allows you to plug other things into it (I did double plugs/2 gang box and directly wired my saw into the back of it). Lastly, cutout the ply under your saw allowing the sawdust to collect in a box under it, as it makes dumping/cleaning up the mess easier. Again, you did a great job...
I have one of those, except for the plainer although mine is a bit older. It's a great saw, believe they were made by king seeley for sears. I put a bessemeyer fence on it and it will make cabinets all day as accurately as anyone's delta or grizzly. I can stand a nickel on edge with the saw running.
I know I've thrown at least two of those in the garbage. Old stuff is nice especially Craftsman stuff but if you're looking to be productive the new portable table saws are out of this world.
My dad had one of these from the 60s or late 50s. If I recall using it, it was underpowered, hard to raise and lower and difficult to tilt. That heavy hanging motor was part of the problem, and this was an 8 inch saw. The fence was crude and minimal. A friend gave him a newer version but it was just as bad. I used that one awhile, but traded up for the newer direct drive types. The current 10 inch Hitachi I have is very portable and a snap to set up and use. For around 400 bucks it was a bargain.
No riving knife, no belt guard, powered by a wall switch, no where for the sawdust to go except into the motor and onto the lead screws. But the way the casters were attached was pretty clever.
Nice work getting the saw working again. Safety note!!!!!! Buy a table saw paddle switch. The light switch is very dangerous as it can bumped or something drop on it.
Nice work. If you're planning on using that much you might consider unbolting the arbor assembly, cleaning and regressing the gears. That grease is decades old.
🟥 Don't pay attention to the haters. You did a fine job saving it from the scrap yard. You might want to rethink your emergency kill switch just to be safe.
You should replace the romax and the cord to the outlet. The original cord appears frayed and can cause a short or fire. A red/green paddle switch would also be better than the standard house switch.
Step 1 when reworking those old Craftsmans: take the belt off and hand spin the blade - it should free spin effortlessly with little or no sound and free spin for a fairly long period - if any noise or resistance, change the bearings - while changing the bearings, check the in / out play of the blade : shim it to no discernible play yet having completely free spin you NEVER beat a pulley off or ON the shaft - and don't use a 2 or 3 arm puller - almost guaranteed to deform the pulley ( which gives you all manner of noise / vibration when running ) - what you do is flip the saw onto the its table and remove the cabinet which usually means taking off the crank handles and removing 3 bolts on the table and 2 bolts on the cup bracket for the tilt - you don't have to change any settings or mess with the trunnions - with the case off, you can access the blade shaft and pulley to pull the pulley and clean the shaft so the pulley slides on and off by hand as it should - you can also change the bearings if needed on old saws which were not used often or haven't been used for a long period, change the belt - it probably has a permanent bend at both pulley locations which will not relax out and will cause constant vibration and wump noises when running - also check the alignment of the pulleys - if not pretty close, the belt will be trying to climb one side of the pulley causing wear and vibration - in your video you are getting constant wump-wump-wump when the saw is running and you can see the belt movement from tight/slack - most likely the old belt those old cast iron saws were heavy, steady, dependable and about as complicated as a one-turn maze - always worth restoring unless the blade carriage is damaged or the trunnions totally worn out
I'm approaching 80 quite a bit older than you. But I sure liked your video. It makes me feel good to see you youngsters recognizing value in things that others think is junk. And your approach to repair using other used stuff was great. I would have done a few things different but you didn't do it to make all the critics happy you did it to make you and the saw happy. YOU WERE A SUCCESS!
and I did subscribe
Thanks for the kind words and the subscription!
Sir, I completely agree with you. The machines made from the early 20th century into the 1960s were made to last, and for the most part built by Americans who took pride in their work. There has been a bit of a renaissance with these old machines and I think it is because people are tired of spending their hard-earned money on something made of plastic and "mystery metal", only to have it break a few months later. There are some who just have to buy the newest models and that's your prerogative, but personally, I would rather save my money and buy quality such as these old cast iron saws, drill presses, etc. I recently purchased a Dewalt 991 Radial arm saw and the restoration is almost complete. I even found a place that still makes the same type of machine paint for the 991 models. Plus, there is no complicated computer chip you have to deal with, just good old steel, and cast iron.
Ran a cabinet business for about 9 years and used one of those saws to rip thousands and thousands of bf of oak mostly. Only thing that ever went wrong with it was that pulley always trying to come off the shaft. Finally sold it and got a unisaw. That old Craftsman stuff was good up until about the 70 when they went to reducing the quality and it started going down hill. I still have one of the old good radial arm saw that I used for cross cutting and dado work. Good stuff.
Plain old Johnsons floor wax is great for all cast iron. Makes it slick and it's fast and easy to apply. One can will last for 10 years. Some of the wobble and shaking can be eliminated with paying attention to getting a balanced pulley and one of those adjustable link belts. You are doing good. Hard to beat old Delta, Craftsman, Rockwell, Porter Cable, etc. Made back when Americans gave a shit.
Rip Johnson’s paste wax.
Nice save! I have a very similar Craftsman saw my father bought new in 1956. 2 years older than I am. I use it almost every day. Original motor and fence. Only has casters in the back.
I bought an 8" Craftsman at a salvage store and restored it. In the process, I watched a bunch of UA-cam videos of people restoring the 10" model; I had to have one! Interestingly enough, I walked out my front door one morning, and saw my neighbor dragging his old 10" Craftsman to the curb; I got it for free. Now fully restored it is fantastic.
funny how when you start thinking about something all the time, it appears.
Good job! Now you have a saw for the ages. My first 'best' table saw was a Craftsman 10" and I used it for years. A sharp blade is your greatest accessory.
Hi, PA woodworker here. My dad's 9" Craftsman is in my crawlspace and I've been toying with the idea of restoring it and selling my Delta 10" contractors saw. Your video just added fuel to the fire, thanks, I didn't think I'd see a video on this old beast.
Great thing about these saws is that there are millions of them out there for spare parts. I’ve got one that I used for 30-35 years in my cabinet shop. It’s not exactly stock though. Doubled pulleys and belts, increased rpm’s x1000, increased motor hp, inserted into 8’x8’ table with air cushion system, different fence and rail system, converted motor to 220v. A real hybrid saw but the same basic tool. It’s served me well and made me many buck$. They’re pretty much indestructible with a minimum amount of maintenance.
I have one of those old Craftsman 10" saws, bought new by my father-in-law in 1954--68 years ago. I use it all the time. I upgraded the fence only. Tip--never hammer a pulley onto a shaft--you will regret it someday when you might have to remove it. Great video.
Never hammer a pulley, 2nd that motion.
I have been looking to upgrade the fence on mine (dad bought in '54) What did you choose?
@@docsavage4530 Shop Fox. Very happy with it. Several years ago it cost around $350.
@Doc Savage fww, I found a great Craftsman modern fence for mine, 20 years ago. I also added a 2nd cast iron side table I scored @ garage sale
@@docsavage4530 Delta T2 - about $150 - 175 - bolted right up to my 10" Craftsman but the installed blade tape is off exactly 1/2 inch -
I concur they are a diamond in the rough.
FYI you installed the blade nut backwards the shoulder goes towards the blade washer.
I’ve rebuilt (including new bearings) and modified them new motors rip fence, miter gauge, and proper setup I’ll match them up against any table saw for accuracy* I’ve built and will build cabinetry, fine furniture, ... If you continue to use that rip fence Make Sure that it is square to the blade nasty kickback can occur, I can tell you about that.
*my Delta UniSaw as comparison
Hey brother I just want to say thank you for rescued this beautiful CRAFTSMAN table saw...I was just given one to me from a coworker that was going to be tossed for scrap metal...Again thank you so much for this video and for not throwing it away for scrap...
For your own safety, replace the light switch with a proper paddle switch. Place it out where your knee can turn it off. Be safe
If you have to hit switches with your knee I question your safety practices. There's a light switch on my table saw but it only arms the electrical controls. You have to flip that switch then hit the start button. But flipping the light switch off will shut the saw down. That's how I usually turn it off. I use a contactor to switch the saw motor. The light switch powers a transformer that energizes the latching relay coils. It's complicated.
If you are that worried get a Saw Stop or don’t go near a table saw.
My Dad had that same saw! Built his house, all the cabinets, and tons of other cabinets and projects with it. When he passed in 94, my older brother inherited it, (I wanted it, but he got first dibs), and still has it to this day. A good saw.
Should you decide to do some more work on the saw, a couple things to consider. The table top can be removed from the frame by removing four bolts. This allows you to flip the table upside down for easier access to the arbor and tilt mechanisms. If you reverse the pulley on the arbor, you can get the pulley to ride on the undamaged portion of the arbor, improving the pulley stability. Of course, the proper solution is to remove the arbor, inspect the bearings for damage, and have the shaft welded up and machined to the right diameter for a new pulley mount. Good luck. I've got two of these and they're fine for home use.
I actually have one of these! It is a real workhorse! Good on you for saving it for future generations to appreciate! Mine has been through so many blades in the last 55 years I have lost count long ago.
Wonderful video. That is a beast of a saw. I' m sure it will give you years of service. They made things to last in those days! I think that over the years you'll modify the saw but the basic saw is just awesome. Thanks for posting.
Those saws were designed to have open bottoms so the dust could fall out into a bin or on the floor. I recommend making the bottom of your cart a drawer of some kind to collect the dust. And I recommend making it twice the size you think you'll need. It's amazing how much wood a table saw turns into dust / shavings.
Good idea. Thanks
I have a Cast iron Craftsman saw like that one and built a solid cabinet base for it and well as a huge table top that adds onto the cast iron top from both sides and the front output area. So now that saw is basically a cabinet saw that you can cut full sheets of material on it and know it will product extremely accurate cuts. The top table was made out of MDF with laminate Formica top glued on. Smooth and very easy to cut huge sections of wood now. I also replace the bearings and arbor shaft to make it as precise and it can get. And than bought a Biesemeyer fence that extends the entire width of the table, and it is an amazing table saw...
Great job! I have my grandpa's that he bought new in the 60's(?) and it was taken very good care of. Works great!
Thanks!
Very nice restoration project. I am currently restoring a band saw and a 6 1/8th inch jointer. The band saw is from 1982, and I think the jointer is from the late 70's. I completely rewired both from the motor, all the way out to the plug, and added new paddle style power switches as well.
This is a fantastic find. I'm glad you fixed it up instead of scrapping the saw. This saw is light years better quality than any brand new saw you could buy today. Its actually slightly an older model than my newer saw. But I actually have one much older that I need to get setup someday.
I would highly recommend to trace out the inside of your saw cavity at the bottom opening against the plywood base and then cut that out to allow the sawdust to come out the bottom. Then use a commercially available sawdust chute in there to channel the dust to the back or side of the cabinet without building up on your bottom shelf. You could also attract a dust vacuum to that device if you had one. Doing so will make it 1,000 times easier to clean out your sawdust from inside that cavity. Happy woodworking!
That is a gorgeous saw! Love them. Heavy metal and made to be serviced. Great job!
I have five old saws in my shop of the Craftsman 113 series and one Ridgid 2424
Made in USA
Glad to see all these comments. I made a video of all the saws I wanted to find new homes for and no responses. It is cool to see that people enjoy old tools more than ever. tHanks for the great video!
I just finished a rebuild of my dad's 1969 Craftsman 113... pulled part, cleaned, new link belt (huge improvement with vibration), rebuilt his rolling stand, etc. I added 2 more 12" cast extensions and a 15" cast router table wing, along with new paddle power switch and cord. A new Delta 36-T30 T4 fence system rounded things out, offsetting the mount to permit 36.5" of rip to the right and 10" to the left. I highly recommend the fence.
Since the fence does not permit the original splitter, I went with a MicroJig MJ setup and splurged on a Jessem Stock Guide system... huge improvements to safety. This beast will last another 50 years and you can't get anything close to it in a metal saw these days (everything is resin or plastic now).
Where did you source your cast extensions and wings from?
@@jimmeh213 eBay. Lots of them available.
If you are working to get a pully on a shaft you can freeze the shaft and or heat the pully. It'll slide right on then mate well once the temp equalizes. Banging on the shaft like you were can damage the bearings that support the arbor.
Yeah, he needed to smooth the shaft, too. All the previous turning mangled the shaft pretty good. The pjjlley should have slid on much more easily.
Craftsman used to make some nice tools back when America was great.
I just went through this exercise. I have a couple older Craftsman tablesaws. I like them! Good video!
My old man had one of these. It went with him from Roswell to El Paso, to St. Thomas, to Corpus Christi, to El Paso again, to Anchorage, and he had it when he died in Hillsboro NM at 75. :-)
My grandfather had one like this (It might have been smaller but the layout was the same. He put an outfeed table about 16" wide and 4' long with a built in drum sander. He turned a piece of wood about 3" in diameter and put a pulley on one end and mounted it into the feed table. He glue sandpaper around the drum and just switched the drive belt from the saw to the drum when he wanted to surface sand something.
You are right about these old machines. I am still using and 80 year Delta 8" saw as a cutoff saw with an abrasive blade.
First off i thought u bought a new pully second never beat any kind of pully sprocket hub with a metal hammer man a little time and effort you could've cleaned that pully up and slipped it right on but glad to see a young man working and trying best of luck to u i also have same saw use it everyday still works as it should best tool for my shop i have ever bought
I have an old craftsman table saw as well, 1st thing change out those 2 cast aluminum pullies/wheels to steel, I got mine on Amazon, and then change out the V-Belt to a Link- Belt. It took all of the Vibration away, this table saw is so smooth running and runs so buttery quite, good luck & be safe
Thanks for this video. I enjoyed it. I myself restored an old vintage Craftsman table saw and encountered some of the same problems you did, but you powered through. I didn’t know Craftsman even had a jointer add-on. I will look for one to purchase. Thanks!
I still have my 1961 10" Craftsman table saw that belonged to my dad.
New motor, link belt, pulleys, new spindle.
Added extensions and a router table, enclosed base and saw dust collection in my shop.
Still going strong!
I think the saw I have is a 1969? It still has the turned metal looking skirt on it. I got it for $20 with no motor on it. It looks to have low miles on it to me. They burned the motor out and it just sat. I put a Rockwell TEFC motor on it. I run a link belt too. It's real smooth.
Me too. With the original stand and switch
@@mhughes1160 I think my 1948 may have an original switch on it? I can't say I'm a fan. I made a magnetic contactor switch for my 1969. It's push button. I made it out of junk furnace parts. There's an article I wrote about it on a website called instructables. It is titled, "Homebrew Magnetic Motor Starter"
Mine is a 1963 from my Grandad. I would be interested if you could post a photo of yours. A router table would be a good plus.
@@joer5627 I'll try and get a photo.
Not sure how to post them here.
Nice work friend. Those old Craftsman table saws will outlive us all. Especially with some TLC and maintenance like you're doing. She'll serve you for a life time. Keep up the videos.
I'm 64 and still use my Craftsman almost every day, I actually bought it for $75 about 10 years ago, haven't had to put a dime into it except normal maintenance. Best of luck to you, you'll never find more satisfaction than a job completed with your own hands.
I owned an 8" version of this beast, and it was old when I bought it in the mid-80s. I hope you are planning on reattaching the 4" jointer too. Mine had a bar on the motor mount that allowed you to slide the motor over, use a little clamp with a hex in it, and connect to the jointer. Yours seems to have the second pulley out far enough to connect directly though. Gave mine to a friend, as I had a newer saw and jointer, but that puppy got me through some nice projects! Nice find!
from what I have read everyone has covered most everything like grounding the electrical and moving the switch and the type of switch then opening up underneath the saw for dust collection and one thing that is very important is the wheels you put, there must be only two wheels and two legs with rubber pad feet ,no matter if you have locking wheels you will be chasing that saw all over the shop and you don't need to be doing that and trying to keep all your fingers attached, keep up the good work and make it a point to learn something new every day and then your lite will get brighter every day
i havd an old delta saw very similar to yours, i got it for free the arbor was trashed on both ends so i had to remove it weld it up and machine it back to spec in my lathe
it works great now and good grief its heavy!! no home owner saws are made so good now days!!!!
Craftsman use to make great tools . Excellent video thanks
They still do..
I've got that same table saw. Works great. A little maintenance goes a long way.
De que año es? Estoy restaurando una, de cuántos HP es el motor de tu sierra?
Great accomplishment...I have two of those saws bolted together.
I use one for ripping, the other for crosscut or using a molding head for making trim and other stuff.
I got both my saws, motors etc. from the dump, with extra wings, for less that $50.
GET THE WINGS for that saw! It will give you a LOT more versatility.
Wings came in two styles...stamped sheet steel and 'skeleton' cast aluminum ones.
Once everything is aligned, you're on your way.
UPGRADES:
Much better 10 inch saw blades!
A segmented belt (smoother power, quieter, available from Harbor Freight)
When you get the chance, make a better fence...look up BIESEMEYER fences.
And you can make a number of accessories from plywood:
tenon fences (for cutting tenons).
zero-clearance inserts for the top, so you get less tear out when cutting wood.
A cross-cut table for more accurate cuts, and easier.
That jointer accessory is kinda rare. You could sell it for bucks, but might be better off keeping it and learning how to use it.
Not only the best but also the most dangerous. I’ve had one for many years and served me well. It now lives with my brother.😊
I have that exact saw. My mom purchased it new as an anniversary present for my dad in the 60's. Even has the original wings.
Put balanced pulleys and a link belt on it. Will run significantly smoother.
Good luck!
WHEN MY OLDEST GRANDSON BOUGHT A HOUSE IT WAS A FIXER UPPER! AT THIS TIME OUR LOCAL AUCTION BARN HAD A PORTABLE
TABLE SAW WHICH I SCORED LOW BUCKS AND GAVE TO HIM.
HE ALSO MADE A BEAUTIFUL PINE KITCHEN TABLE PLAIN BUT QUITE WELL BUILT!
LATER AT THE SAME AUCTION I BOUGHT ONE FOR HIS YOUNGER BROTHER!
HIS YOUNGER BROTHER HAS GOTTEN IN TO HOME REHAB WORK AND BUSY!!
PROUD OF THEM BOTH
I picked up a circa 1958 craftsman table saw with both cast iron table extensions. I bought a harbor freight pedestal and a new 1 HP motor and it runs like a top. Yours appears to be an early to mid-sixties version. These are great tools and will serve a lifetime or two.
You are correct on the date. I have my father's which was purchased new
@@jimk4267 -My dad's Craftsman was purchased in 1972, but it was never bequiffed to me. Still, I am happy with the late 50's version I have now, it was treated with love and respect. Hopefully, it will still be around when I give it away to the next enthusiast and if I'm lucky I get to see the smile on their face knowing that they have an awesome saw.
I have an almost identical Craftsman table saw that my dad bought around 1961 or so. The difference between mine and yours is my drive belt is on the right side. The motor that came with it looks just like yours. I replaced it with a 3 hp that was given to me and made a buffer out of the original motor. I actually have 5 of the original table extensions but am making a router top to replace two on the left side to hold my Craftsman router in a JessEm Rout-R-Lift. I did buy a Delta fence kit to replace the original fence as well
.I suspect the arbor bearings on yours may need replacing as mine is nowhere near that loud when running. The only repair I have done is that same pulley which actually split in two on mine.
Had the same table saw given to me about 10 years ago I have used it to completely remodel my house and now I'm looking to add a better fence and make some furniture with it
Mine didn't come with the jointer I got an old delta jointer I'm in the middle of restoring it as well 🙃
I have a saw just like that one. Bought it on sale from Sears for $ 159.95 over fifty years ago.
It still works, just like it did when it was new.
I inherited a simulator saw from my dad... my mom bought it from a guy in 55. Dad used it to build our house, and remodeled a couple others.
It needs a cart like you have, heavy as heck to move around.
You need to cut a hole in the bottom of the table for saw dust to fall out of.
Nice job!
P.S. if you ever get ambitious, you should replace the romex with S.O. cord. Romex shouldn't be used like a cord. But you're absolutely right about the wiring "hook" around the screws and the grounding..👍
Super cool video.
...you take care as well. Super well done!
That thing is sweet!
Thanks Jake!
My granddad had one of these and he built everything from a playhouse with the scrap lumber from his night watchman job at MCRD San Diego to his 1800 square foot dream home in Montague, Calif, where he milled all of the lumber out of 16 inch square redwood stickers he acquired from a mill that was being torn down near Yreka, Calif
I have had this very saw for about 20 years, it is very accurate, I have the side extensions , if it is necessary to move it there must be at least 2 people or it must be disassembled 👍🤗
Yeeeeeessss!!!! Frikkin awesome!
This saw is a beast Mine is 50 years old and model # 113.29992. It's missing the original wood around all 4 sides
I had to chuckle when you showed the bolts for attaching the saw frame to the table. You said you had taken them from a recent project but you couldn't remember the project. I had a similar thought this week while making wheel weights for my garden tractor out of old brake rotors. I found 1/2 inch carriage boots in my 1/2 inch bolt bucket but I couldn't recall where they came from. I attributed my forgetfulness to being 70 years old but it can't be that if you have the same difficulty. I agree with @bsteleven below that it is great to see young guys fixing up used machines and letting them continue working. That ethic will serve you well.
The movie is just starting....but this is looking good already!
I've got the same Craftsman 10" saw or, at least, a similar model. Mine has the cast iron extension wings that bolt on. Got the saw from my dad. I also have a Jet cabinet saw. The Jet saw is my go to for everyday use. I set the Craftsman up when I'm doing certain machining processes that may take several days to finish and I don't want to move anything. I remodeled my kitchen and I had to build about 20 shaker style drawer fronts and cabinet doors. I set the blade height, angle, and fence and left it until I had all the parts cut. Took a couple of weeks of catching a few here and there when I had time. During that time I used the Jet saw for various other things.
The Craftsman is a good table saw but I wouldn't go so far as to say it's the best ever made. Mine vibrated like crazy so I bought a segmented V-belt. It is much smoother now but there's still a little vibration in it. I have a feeling it might be an arbor bearing but I haven't looked at it yet.
Also, just as an FYI, if you mount the electrical boxes to the metal frame you only need to connect the ground at one spot. Maybe the person who originally wired those boxes was going with that in mind in the beginning (they obviously didn't do it correctly).
That jointer attachment is pretty cool. Wish I had one.
a few years ago i got hold of that exact saw as well as the 4" planer to match . you are correct , i got so tired of moving that stuff out of my way i gave it to a scrapper to get it gone . im sure he still has it .
Boooo!
I have used this same table saw for over 35 years. I bought it used. A few years ago I bought a second one since I have two shops. I am 78. I have built a lot of furniture. I wish that I could give a tutorial on safety that I have learned. I recommend that you build a table extension over motor.
There are two ways to learn: from experience and from youtube. It's better if it's from youtube in this instance. I want to die with ten fingers.
@@rollinon I use 7.25", 40 tooth, Diablo. Reduce kick. Need sled. Use spacer next to fence in ripping. Keep blade low.
I had a saw like that. Bought it for $25 and used it for about 10 years. Was still great when J gave it to somebody else.
I have this exact same saw.. but older... I also have the cast iron leafs which really makes it sweet... Enjoy..
Good stuff
Great Job! One note is that switch placement might get in the way of the blade tilt mechanism. Enjoyed the video!!
For the table, treat it with auto paste wax. Keeps it from rusting and helps the wood travel a lot smoother. The plywood under the saw is going to hold sawdust. A collection bin will help contain it.
No dont do that. It has silicone in it and will make all the finishes you do fisheye. Theres spray dry lube for that. .
@@whooptydoo6256 johnsons wax doesnt have silicone iirc
Hi, I bought a 1942 8” Craftsman saw in 1977 and have been using it off and on since then. When I retired in 2019 I bought a 10” Delta table saw but I keep that little Craftsman around because having a second table saw can be handy. For instance when the big saw is all set up for a dado cut but I need to make a different cut I have the 8” ready to go. The 8” doesn’t have any of the original guards and the blade is fully exposed but using extreme caution with a table saw goes without saying. BTW finding 8” blades with a 1/2” arbor is impossible but I did find reducers to place in the blade’s 5/8” hole that work.
Nice Job Man!
Hey Chris! Thanks!
@@rollinon You're welcome! I have a old 8" Craftsman I bought for like $20 years ago and this gives me some Ideas...
Good for you trying things out you are no mechanic but you have the skills to be.
That is nice looking saw its dam shame they can't build stuff well made like that now with nice metal like that
Wow you were brutal on the pully.
Having wired my entire house, 2 shops and a garage, I feel "qualified" to comment on your table saw wiring. I have also wired 3 router tables and 3 - 240 volt table saws. The wiring to the motor is the "life blood" of the saw. Inadequate supply wiring will overheat the motor and cause it to fail prematurely. What you have done is freshen up the existing wiring and reuse the existing switch and plug. It's great that you eliminated the extension cord, a common source of voltage drop and not enough current supplied to the motor. HOWEVER, I would never run a tablesaw motor using a plug to an outlet controlled by that type of switch. That plug looked very shabby from what I could tell. So it would be best to run the motor supply wire directly to the switch, no outlet, in order to have fewer connections. To further improve the safety aspect, get the switch out from under the front of the cabinet so it's more accessible without looking. There will come a time when you must shut the saw OFF without releasing your hand from the workpiece. There are "SAFETY PADDLE" switches that you can mount at hip level so you can bump the saw off using your hip or upper leg. I do this all the time and it's become second nature. FWIW, I purchased a saw of that vintage when I was 18 years old., a Craftsman 100. I used it fpr 45 years before I said that's enough and used the motor and table for another project.
They were indeed good saws. I had one back in the 70's. The old ones were good. But then I traded up for a Walker Turner. Not really fair to compare the old Craftsman to a true cabinet saw, but the WT had it's issues too. (poor design on the fence). Then I got a unisaw, and a PM66. Both were better still. Got rid of the Uni' fence and put a Biezemeyer fence on it. Great saw. Then I got an older F&E dual Arbor, which was really a fine saw, (16" blades) but the PO had modified it and basically made is not a good saw. Now I have an Oliver 270D, which is a really fine saw. 3 phase, swings a 16" blade (but normally only a 14"). Everything is great about it. Is it the best? There is always something better. I've used a Martin and that is really great, but I'm 75 now and this one will be the last "new to me" table saw I get. But you should go on the OWWM site and see what folks have done to restore all these old wonderful machines..... nice job
Time to build the 4x8 table using melamine 3/4 sheet plywood ,with cutout for exact fit and size flush with table saw top.and if you can afford it buy a speed lock fence made with translucent white food grade phenolic easy glide board.like they use for butcher blocks and commercial kitchens.you can get some of that stock and make your own.order a tape measuring stick on strip to see your exact fence to blade measurement.also need to make a zero play plat insert to fit exactly out of hard maple.then turn on saw and slowly raise your blade height .that will make less splintering,less ragged edges on cuts,much safer.keeos small pieces that are cut or just slide or vibrate off of wood piece and fall into blade potentially causing all kinds of damage ,loss of eyesight.thats really the next mandatory item even before the cut out table..but the table is nice to support your work as it exists blade.need a little stand with a 12 in wide roller on it to support the long boards.
Great start my friend, I’m not sure if you edited the footage a bunch but I sure hope you got that uotlet grounded before you buttoned it up and started cutting. Best of luck on your endeavors. I wish I could find good deals like that here in Japan.
great old saw, a link belt would help make it run allot smoother
My Grandfather had the same unit. I replaced the pulleys and added a link belt, & zero clearance insert. Works like a champ. While it takes a few passes to cut 8/4 Walnut it cuts everything else ok if I slow it down a bit.
Not a fan of the base but I’ll figure out something for dust collection. A dust bag helped some. Plan to replace it with a plywood bin with a dust port. Then let the cyclone sort it out.
Good video
I picked up one of these a few years ago for free. Motor was shot but I was able to put on a 2 hp motor from hobo freight. That and a diablo blade, now it rips. Only used it once, now it sits in storage again.
Nice video. I'm older now but when I started I got a hold of whatever old saws I could find and fixed them up. I still use an old Craftsman saw. I also collect older hardware wherever I can find it. I was wondering about your placement of the switchbox. In the video it appears that maybe it might be in the path of the blade tilt mechanism.
Yea. I noticed that switch placement also. 'Might be the camera angle, but it looked a bit tight.
I bolt 2 or 3 of these saws edge to edge for a 60 inch WIDE cast iron table & 2 or 3 setups. You can put a dadoe head on one, a RIP blade on another, & crosscut on the other. It gives you the option of 2 or 3 different operations. The pick off fence works any place on the table. Also use segment drive belts to minimize vibration.
Throw the belt away and get a link belt best upgrade you can do for a smooth running table saw!
I still have my Craftsmen 10" table saw I bought in 1974.. I also found a 1976 at a yard sale..
Older tablesaws are money-makers for carpenters and cabinetmakers! The bearings and trunions are high quality.i have a 1970 Sears 10" in my shop.Romex wire is for the Country.Shielded cable or pipe is for Urban areas------Psalm 100.
I gotta say I'm proud of you attempting to dive into something new to you!!! Job well done. Could you have done things a little better? Yep and at nearly 70 Y.O. I can say the same about myself. I still need help with things, I still make mistakes, BUT... I also still learn tricks and tips each day if I'm lucky!!!
I have two of those same saws in my shop. One I wrapped a 48 x73 inch bench around with cabinets underneath, sitting on locking casters, and also extending the fence system to rip to 30+ inches.
All I did for the fence was replace the angle iron ones with matching size longer ones and put new tape measure tapes on them.... certainly I don't care for the back angle iron creating a long hole in the table along the back edge of the saw, but I wasn't going to put a new expensive fence system on an old 1-1/2 saw. What is amazing to me is.... it works very well
Johnson Floor wax every metal table top in your shop and things will slide very nice. Replace the flip switch with a paddle switch moving it out towards the front for quick access will make things better/safer, and take your electrical box and mount it in a place that allows you to plug other things into it (I did double plugs/2 gang box and directly wired my saw into the back of it). Lastly, cutout the ply under your saw allowing the sawdust to collect in a box under it, as it makes dumping/cleaning up the mess easier.
Again, you did a great job...
Thank you for the kind words and recommendations sir! Take care, and thanks for watching!
“My grandpa ran a table saw without a riving knife for 60 years, it’ll be fine” - Bob “Sixfingers” Miller
I have one of those, except for the plainer although mine is a bit older. It's a great saw, believe they were made by king seeley for sears. I put a bessemeyer fence on it and it will make cabinets all day as accurately as anyone's delta or grizzly. I can stand a nickel on edge with the saw running.
I know I've thrown at least two of those in the garbage.
Old stuff is nice especially Craftsman stuff but if you're looking to be productive the new portable table saws are out of this world.
I have a Craftsman contractor saw also. It is much lighter, but lacks the power!
Definitely Bud, do what someone else suggested get you a paddle switch an move it out towards the edge where easy to get to in an emergency
The Oh Shit switch moment..
You need a safety switch on that saw! Nice to see it has new life.
My dad had one of these from the 60s or late 50s. If I recall using it, it was underpowered, hard to raise and lower and difficult to tilt. That heavy hanging motor was part of the problem, and this was an 8 inch saw. The fence was crude and minimal. A friend gave him a newer version but it was just as bad. I used that one awhile, but traded up for the newer direct drive types. The current 10 inch Hitachi I have is very portable and a snap to set up and use. For around 400 bucks it was a bargain.
No riving knife, no belt guard, powered by a wall switch, no where for the sawdust to go except into the motor and onto the lead screws. But the way the casters were attached was pretty clever.
Nice work getting the saw working again.
Safety note!!!!!! Buy a table saw paddle switch. The light switch is very dangerous as it can bumped
or something drop on it.
I have a few old craftsman table saws an radial arm saws still running id sale them great saws
They sure are!
Good video just wondering is there a riving knife for in front of the blade to reduce chances of kickback
I don't have one!
Nice work. If you're planning on using that much you might consider unbolting the arbor assembly, cleaning and regressing the gears. That grease is decades old.
That's a good thought. Thanks for the input!
🟥 Don't pay attention to the haters. You did a fine job saving it from the scrap yard. You might want to rethink your emergency kill switch just to be safe.
You should replace the romax and the cord to the outlet. The original cord appears frayed and can cause a short or fire. A red/green paddle switch would also be better than the standard house switch.
Step 1 when reworking those old Craftsmans: take the belt off and hand spin the blade - it should free spin effortlessly with little or no sound and free spin for a fairly long period - if any noise or resistance, change the bearings - while changing the bearings, check the in / out play of the blade : shim it to no discernible play yet having completely free spin
you NEVER beat a pulley off or ON the shaft - and don't use a 2 or 3 arm puller - almost guaranteed to deform the pulley ( which gives you all manner of noise / vibration when running ) - what you do is flip the saw onto the its table and remove the cabinet which usually means taking off the crank handles and removing 3 bolts on the table and 2 bolts on the cup bracket for the tilt - you don't have to change any settings or mess with the trunnions - with the case off, you can access the blade shaft and pulley to pull the pulley and clean the shaft so the pulley slides on and off by hand as it should - you can also change the bearings if needed
on old saws which were not used often or haven't been used for a long period, change the belt - it probably has a permanent bend at both pulley locations which will not relax out and will cause constant vibration and wump noises when running - also check the alignment of the pulleys - if not pretty close, the belt will be trying to climb one side of the pulley causing wear and vibration - in your video you are getting constant wump-wump-wump when the saw is running and you can see the belt movement from tight/slack - most likely the old belt
those old cast iron saws were heavy, steady, dependable and about as complicated as a one-turn maze - always worth restoring unless the blade carriage is damaged or the trunnions totally worn out
Wow, great advice. Thank you. My current self cringes at my treatment of that bearing...
Agreed! I have the smaller version that is even a little older. The miter gauge weighs about 2 pounds! The motor is still the original!
Get a pair of turned pulleys and you will have a great machine.