Table of Contents: 00:15 - Flight video of Trashcan 02:38 - Flight video of Toothpick 04:20 - Camera 06:44 - Frame 07:40 - Motors 09:03 - 1S performance 10:11 - Insides 11:35 - Firmware 14:41 - My opinion of the product 20:48 - The little carbon frame Eachine Trashcan: goo.gl/tD7QDH Flying Toilet seat: ua-cam.com/video/tiKZ8p-cWzU/v-deo.html Trashcan Alternatives: Diatone 2019 GT R239 R90: goo.gl/DBnnke TinyHawk (1S only): goo.gl/LrQiN9, goo.gl/8y66Gf The other carbon frame videos: Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/yUBwDGdeGjs/v-deo.html Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/1M9WutEXIZc/v-deo.html Settings I changed from default: Set to 8k/8k PID and gyro rate Turn off accelerometer Turn on air mode Turn on anti-gravity Turn on dynamic filters Set your arm switches I set my rates to 1.44. might be high for many. I also don't like different rates for yaw pitch and roll. all 1.44. Equipment I highly recommend: Micro Eagle - goo.gl/or1fS9 Rush Tank Vtx - goo.gl/YMYmya Fantastic solder- amzn.to/2P5QM2W TS100 iron - goo.gl/DqBipa goo.gl/svK6DD amzn.to/2OV5XMh WaFL’s Cap Cap insta-stalker.com/profile/wafl.fpv/ goo.gl/9CZdAs Tips? PayPal: www.paypal.me/kababfpv Bitcoin: 1E4XZXoD4rS6MYWVWuenY7Kw2M1YgyNpoQ Nano: xrb_1188ek5bd7tb9kw67asnp9o65byuoaxbtpxuznx1ribf75x78awywmakj55f ETH: 0xD067F93811f2eC31CB1928901002dfdf9A492EF5 LTC: La2KWYAjp4VT2Lq2M76pbjzXWvRyjpfCtG
This is off topic on this video but I know you like the Talon f4 flight controllers. It was after one of your videos that I got a few. Have you had any issues getting the receiver to work? I'm using the r xsr receiver, it's bound, powers on, uart1 serial rx switched in BF, uart 3 is smartport, serial receiver and sbus selected in Config, and tried the CLI commands Inverted ON. I can't get stick movements in the Receiver tab. It's got to be something simple I'm overlooking. Any help would be appreciated, I know it difficult through text sometimes.
@@markwestbrook3313 I finally figured it out. I saw that video, I think I've seen them all now lol. I knew about the whole inverted/uninverted stuff, trying to change it in the cli, if that doesn't work solder a wire onto the micro pad. I guess when I tried the wire on the solder pad it wasn't a great connection the first time. To add to the frustration I had to update my radio and was thinking I messed something up in that process. Thanks for the input and taking time to help, it's appreciated.
@@damienkrohse3374 No worries my friend, I have had the same problem myself with recievers and other stuff, this is a great hobby especially if you build as well as fly but hell its frustrating as a simple little era can cause headaches for hours sometimes day's. All part of the fun, and the sense of achievement once you figure things out is a bonus. :)
Someone's gonna have to throw it eventually....personnaly, Bob's flying prius is a much more promising concept. I ordered a bat 100 frame and magic props for my Mobula 7 as I wait for the Toothpick to be available.
I'm ok with scaling throttle down on a switch to fly indoors and flipping the switch if I want to go outside. The main point is that it doesn't weigh enough to damage something inside but also can be fun at a park.
Thank you for putting all the effort in making the toothpick, trying different components etc. This is something I’ve been dreaming of since flying the original inductrix and it’s finally in the realm of possibilities with all these new brushless motors and electronics. A „real“ micro quad. Thank you!
thanks for the detailed review and recommendations! you mentioned soldering on a receiver with a crazybee F4 Pro board that has the SPI FrSky receiver integrated. there is enough pads to get it working. i did it for my brother since he had x9 lite which only supported D16 and there is the D16 dropout bug on Crazybee non-EU FrSky boards. 1. soldered SBUS out from R-XSR to IRX1 (the inverted RX1) and set Betaflight Ports for UART1 to Serial RX, deselected Smart Audio on Peripherals. 2. soldered S.Port from R-XSR to LED Strip pad, soldered VCC and Ground to LED Strip 5v and ground pads 3. desoldered Smart Audio and resoldered to TX2 and set Peripherals for UART2 to Smart Audio. 4. Enabled Softserials 5. ran CLI: resource 6. found pin for LED Strip (A00 in my case) 7. ran CLI: resource SERIAL_TX 11 A00 8. ran CLI: save 9. set Softserial#1 in Betaflight Ports to Smart Port on Telemetry Out
You should sell a Trashcan upgrade kit including your frame, props a receiver/antenna if possible, maybe some lower KV motors & a good camera. But it would probably be as expensive as the trashcan itself, so maybe it's better to bundle the two together in order the make the price less deterrent... And eachine would be happy for licensing fees...
I think the firmware now day's is so good that it can make even a heavy trashcan fly well. So much whoop hype right now. Everything is the best thing too come out so far... Firmware I recon. You make good content mate. I watch your stuff even if I'm not interested in the product or the subject matter. Honest and informative. I get ideas about what I want in a Quad and that's helpful. I never get that "this is the answer, this is the be all of the FPV".. the perfect drone rubbish that a lot of people do. You just love FPV... Stay true bro. Love ya work.
Just swap out the camera if you want 4:3. They're something like $13 !! Big deal... Simple swap. 👍 People bitch too much... Stop putting the effort into complaining and put it into solving the issue, if there is one. No question the future of FPV, and anything to do with video, is 100% 16:9. Ask yourself this... What else in the world uses 4:3 still as a video format? NOTHING! Everything HD IS 16:9, so just get used to you owning the past, if you own 4:3 goggles, and seeing more and more 16:9 in FPV. Because 4:3 is slowly dying... Way too slow IMO. It's a dead aspect ratio in EVERYTHING else. 🤔😁🤘
@@scootroter4859 l thing once people really get into fpv, they spend the big money on a good fatshark googles which are 4:3. Myself, l find l like 4:3 better as l am flying up and down, not just side to side, therefore like the field of view better.
Scoot Roter disagree - if you consider how a lens works, 16:9 is cropped compared to 4:3, and you lose vertical field of view which is important. In recording HD footage, widescreen is great, but not flying. 4:3 is far from dead in that regard
Love 16:9 on a native sensor.. but agree that cropping should never happen in these things. I like 16:9 for MORE horizontal fov, not less vertical. Eagles & Monsters til I die!
Just watched the rest.. agreed on pretty much all counts. Your stuff is great because whether you agree or disagree, there's something we can do with those ideas. Maintains the stoke for flying and trying new things. Thanks for that! Re: 2S on whoops, I think it's more or less pointless. Defeats the purpose of whoop-class things for me. Personally, I think the sub 5" sweet spots (with current lipo tech & electronics) are 1s for 31-40mm props, 2s for 2"-3", 3S for 2.5"-4" - Yes there's some overlap.
This is what we need (or at least what I need): 5 inch flight characteristics, high quality camera/vtx, crossfire, and durability...so we can fly anywhere, especially in small parks and the tight spaces where we live...looking forward to the evolution...the BHR was almost there but durability lacked
Racerstar released today the new 0804 and 0806 motors, look into them, 0806 10000kv on 2s could be mind blowing in 65mm props. Also you can add a separate reveiver to the crazybee... Just give up smartaudio and do the uninverted hack on the Rx
Looks good but I'm betting the wider motors will work better. 65mm is enormous for such a tiny motor. Also, ~3.9g is really the limit in motor weight for this tiny size. After that it starts to require 2S and becomes a power quad.
Dear Bob, I want to give some input to this topic. Last year I built a small copter to carry a Split mini. I even did some thrust tests with different props. The magic 65mm KK Prop was the winner. Combined with a Racerstar 1103 @ 8000kv I get flight times of about 6:30 (slow flying) with an 2s GNB 450. As I did the thrust tests I did a test run with a cutted 65mm KK to 60mm. The result was, up to a thrust of 70g the efficiency of both was more or less same. Then I cutted it down 55mm --> up to 50g about the same efficiency. So by cutting I just lost max. thrust. All @ 7,66V: 65mm --> 88g; 60mm --> 78g; 55mm --> 64g. What I want to say: When your motors are too fast please try to cut the props. This would enable a smaller = lighter frame and by reducing the prop weight... I think you got my point.
Yeah I understand. The 65mm prop is truly magical. They're making the triblade version for me and I'm really hoping it'll just be a bit more magical. I also believe we will ultimately end up with a 1202 or 1302 motor.
I see no issues with 2S in whoop. If 2S provide enough boost to handle whoop in air better then why not use it? Especially if home is so large as yours. Set lowered throttle rate for indoor 2S flying in one of rate profiles and switch between them from OSD or by transmitter switch. The purpose for whoops like Mobula7 and Trashcan is to make them usable in both home and outdoors. For me at now these whoops Mobula7 with possibility to fly in both 1S and 2S configurations are a God's gift because of winter here when weather is not compatible for flying outdoors. Also because recently I lost my workshop and don't know when I will be able to fly with 5" racers again. Impossibility to reach a top of skyscraper doesn't matter to us here at all. We haven't so tall buildings around :)
The issue with weight is that it's not always relatable to power. Meaning if you have more power, it doesn't mean you'll have excellent performance. There's a fine line between where the props act sort of like wings and control surfaces rather than just thrust machines to keep you from falling into the ground. It's hard to explain but if you fly a light weight craft with a really good disk loading factor you'll realize how nice and easy it is to control and how enjoyable it is compared to something overweight where you're always on the gas and there's no real in-between from falling and rocketing. Both have their merritt's, to me, whoops don't feel great when overweight regardless of how much power there is.
@@Kabab I know about what you are talking about. Too heavy quads become flying cows indeed - not much fun in flying them. The trick is to find not to heavy batteries. For these 2S whoops 260..300 mAh LiHV batteries are still in acceptable weight limit. 450 mAh is already too heavy :)
I was about to buy one and watched some other reviews. However something was off about the DVR footage and I decided to not get one as I prefer a wide FOV. So cheers for pointing out the 16:9 camera that others didn't mention. It all makes sense now.
You're not missing out on anything. I promise. There will be a dozen more and honestly this thing isn't that fun to fly. It actually flies a lot like the DRL racer 3 😂🙈
With 5/6A ESC and 1103 motors we are back in the same realms of the old Emax Babyhawk specs. From memory I think those motors were 1104 around 5000kv. I've not flown that model for about a year. I bet that FC (although only F3) and power train would look pretty good on this type of setup now. Especially with new Betaflight 4.0 firmware. You have high expectations, keep them there! If we all want it, eventually someone will make it. Just don't be afraid to put this one on the back burner again until the technology catches up. It's come a long way since your brushed flying Prius model.
@Kabab FPV what do you think of the AIO hive 16 stack for the toothpick build? Seems like they are coming out with something similar. Was wondering the pros and cons in your opinion for your build. Thanks!
I have been super impressed with the range I am getting from the micro 25/100 mw vtx boards in my GoFly Falcon's. Its very small and costs like 17 dollars. Putting a whole GoFly stack on one of your frames...with T-motor F-10's...Would be insane...The whole stack is about 95 and 50 for the motors...The Cp 90 Falcon I built with T-motor F-10's is seriously one of my highest performance quads. I learn massive info.on your channel. practicing dive bombs all the time. Your awesome. Bob!
Betaflight has some new(ish) throttle limit features that are perfect for super powerful 2s brushless micros like this. Rather than using your radio for throttle limits, you can go into BF configurator and set an upper throttle limit but have it still scale to your entire stick range. What's great about doing throttle limiting this way is that the PID controller can still go beyond your set throttle limit to give each motor the authority it needs. But you don't have to worry about the quad blasting off to the moon if you give full stick deflection. For example. you could set a 50% throttle limit in scaled mode. This means 100% throttle on the stick only gives %50 throttle to the quad. But you still have the full stick range from 1000-2000. So you actually end up getting more throttle precision because you're using the original stick range to control a smaller throttle range.
I wonder if the PID controller does actually take advantage of that. I've wondered that for a long time and believe that's why micros washout. But I don't really know.
Caddx do a eos2 4:3 camera that can be replaced. 160 degree FOV too. But it Comes with a female instead of a male plug So a little modification is needed. Also the none receiver model I purchased has a UART on the board inverted or standard which will enable a separate tx to be connected. I have a crossfire nano with the race xf antenna connected and works perfectly.
apparently you can add an external Rx on the pads used for smart audio but you may have to do some other software tricks to get it to work as well. I haven't done it so I'm not sure.
also you can run this indoors on 1s actually was looking to buy this for a step up from my e0110 tiny whoops for something I can still fly indoors as I cant fly my 5 inch indoors and for what you get for that price isn't really too bad in comparrison to it's compettion
You can fly this on 1S, yes. But it's not very good on 1S. The TinyHawk is night and day better on 1S than this is. But the TinyHawk only does 1S. The trashcan is so bad on 1S that it's unlikely you'll want to fly it on 1S more than once just to see.
Please adjust Betaflight to the best settings for this Wastepaper basket! 8k/8k, dynamic filters, air mode, proper rates, etc, etc, etc. Tweak it. Then fly it again and let us know how it goes. WE ALL APPRECIATE you doing this and giving us your exoerience opinion. BTW, that's the best thing about your channel. You give a strong opinion, which we VALUE for your knowledge! And, you don't give a crap about what the manufactures think about what you say. You're not a shill! 🤔😉👍
Awesome video, did you try literally H style frame for these micros? My thinking is you will get shorter arms, in general, within same motorspan than X style frame and reduce weight even more
i.imgur.com/ULtzMM1.png Here I made a quick sketch, Might have used wrong sizes for the board and props, but I think it is at least more clear what I am talking about
@@Kabab how come? If you maintain the spacing for motors and the base for the board, X-style arms will be roughly 40% longer, thus wasting more material. Or I am wrong somewhere and cant figure out it. Happy new year though. Check out the rough design I attached in the link in the previous answer to this
How would a F4 ESC+FC improve things? ESCs would be 4.3A. You still have to add an AIO camera and a receiver. I'm thinking of combining two open source projects, the tinypepper 4in1 with dronemesh F4 fc.
F4 FC allows you to run 8k/8k which on these micros, does actually help. I dunno what's going on in the firmware at all but it is actually better in real world use
i'm curious. is there a benefit to big props that those whoops use ? the hubs look so big. and what are your tri blade press on props going to look like ?
you mean the benefit of the large prop on my carbon frame? The larger prop gives you a far better disk loading factor which provides massive, MASSIVE improvements in control, stability and efficiency. Compare the flight performance of the two at the beginning of the video. The trashcan is fast but kinda wobbling all over the place with wonky performance whereas my little carbon frames fly like a full blown 5" quad with very high control and stability. Both the trashcan and my carbon frame are essentially using the same components. Actually the trashcan has the advantage of an F4 and larger motors.
I mean props on whoops with prop guards around them. I really like your build, a lot more than whoops with prop guards. I only own two whoops, so I can't speak for all of them. but the prop guards act like sound amplifier and make a lot of noise for its size and speed. and it might scare people. whereas your build, it flies great and is very quiet. and people tend not to care. where I fly, there are not many people but they walk by from time to time. and I really don't want them to ask me to leave.
I would be curious to hear what you have to say about the tiny leader as it seems to have all the good parts in it. I think a tinyhawk 2s would be the perfect drone as l found the 2" babyhawk r did everything right for the way l like to fly, just to big and heavy for flying close to people and small places, like little parks or front yards.
I LIKE THE TRASHCAN NAME.... GOES ALONG WITH ALL THE TRASHY FLYING POSER PILOTS ON UA-cam making videos....(except Bob's of course) Nothing wrong with radio range, it does great for close proximity acro flying... Plan on attempting a Matty stuntz flip with mine instead of bashing my good quads
The EU version of the Mobula7 comes with a genuine FrSky XM+ and has very good range (but occupies the only UART). So, yeah, that's an option if you are ready to trade 3 additional grams of weight for good range.
Oh sorry for being blind... Thanks a lot. Very in depth review! I allready ordered one but after watching your video wasn't as sure about it as i was before. But I enjoy flying around parks and people as much as you so my GT M3 is not allways the best option. Thanks for your videos they really help beginners or intermediate pilots like me.
What are the beta flight settings you suggest? Mine is currently ordered and on the way and I want to be ready. Also, what do you think about converting it to an xt30 power connector?
I wanna see the frame you have the mobula7 crazybee fc on please?And have you thought about the tips of the frame with bumpers that the motor is recessed down into to protect the motors a bit and maybe make a couple out of forged carbon 🖒🖒
Forged carbon is 100% garbage. Not to be used in any quad product imo. Motor bumpers are built into my most recent design. Check out the link in the video description for more. I'm working on some things
I ordered the 4:3 camera and it will be here before the TS, have HD V2 goggs so it was a necessity. Good thing is, it's 11 bucks and will be here before the TS ships :). Keep up the good work and Happy New Year.
I like the betafpv 75x on 2S, but it's far from perfect too! I just wanted something to survive the monsoon season indoors, but this thing is capable of running outside with the big dogs! Washout is unavoidable sometimes, but I've learned to handle the throttle with care and that goes a long way to avoid it. The XM+ that comes stock along with the 200mW VTX (on the 75X) let's me dive buildings and hit gaps at speed just like the 3" and 5". The trashcan should have a better receiver, no excuse for that, nor the limited vertical FOV on the FPV cam. Swapping the frame sounds like a good idea for the trashcan. The 75X has an unbelievably tough frame. I think I'll pass on the can. Too many better options. Nice work with that frame, now I want a toothpick frame too!
The Caddx EOS2 is available in a 4:3 version, so while it is an added expense, it would be an easy fix. Also the Trashcan is available without a receiver, so an XM+ would fix the range issue. I don't know what the mounting options are for the receiver but it would certainly be better if the built in RX option had decent range. Thanks for the review, if one of these finds it's way into my shopping cart, it will be without a receiver.
@@LegitimaMax yeah I have an XM with antenna taped to one of the ducts on my Zer0 whoop and it can easily go beyond the limits of 25mw VTX with a dipole.
Thanks for your review. I did order the TrashCan a few days ago because I really do not fly my 5” as often as I would like. In front of my house there is a great flying spot with fields, some trees a little lake and bicycle lanes, however I do not like to bother the neighbors so I only fly there once or twice a month. That’s why I found the trashcan interesting. I’ve ordered the no-RF version so I can put in the nano Crossfire and the Micro AXII and a bunch of TBS 300mah 2s HV, to be able to cover some distance. I will definitely add a Caddx EOS 2 4:3. After having some fun I would really like to transfer to your frame. When and where can I get the toothpick frame? Thanks for the beta flight recommendations, because I’m a Kiss person. Maybe the Trashcan name is to put customs on the wrong foot ;)
I'd bet the tiny hawk handles washout better because of the pusher prop config. Washout is caused by dropping into your own prop wash and losing power and authority because of it with a pusher config you'll have more power because there's more air space that the prop is moving into. I know with a little 8.5 brushed build I did awhile back with a houseracer frame that's pusher it recovered a lot quicker than even a lighter build using the same components but standard tractor style props.
I just flew it again right now. The TH's 1S performance is night and day better than the trashcan. I wouldn't even bother running the trashcan on 1S. It's a total waste of time. It's a combo of the aggressive broad blade props, better balance and pusher that makes the TH perform better overall. Both in washout and everywhere else.
@@Kabab Ya I would expect something from Emax to perform better, eachine is mostly about building stuff to a price. I can't wait for your toothpick frame I love 1s quads super cheap batteries and safe to fly basically anywhere. Currently the bat-100 is my go to frame but it requires building a stack doesn't quite fit the 66mm props and it's pretty cheap carbon as well so I'm stoked at the extra performance and weight savings possible with the toothpick.
@@Kabab I researched a little and info from a friend and yes a separate Rx can be added to a Crazybee F4 Pro (and F3 Pro) with a built-in Rx of any type. I will add a XM+ when I get mine (which is a FrSky version) which should be plenty of range for the 200mW VTX. Surprising more YT reviewers haven't mention the Rx range issue on this Trashcan or the very similar Mobula7 with the F3 Pro and essentially the same Rx.
Need about 3 of those toothpicks in my life! Any idea when we can get our hands on em? Don't forget to remind Trappy to build an AIO CRSF board every single day until he does it!
@@Kabab His feelings are ugly and wrong! I think you've got something real here and could see this filling a spot for me as a kind of park flyer. I'd probably fly the toothpick around my yard and parks more than I get the chance to fly my 3" and 5".
@@Kabab Frsky has designed flight controllers with integrated xm+ receivers. Maybe they would be interested in developing an aio with the R9M integrated into it and a 20x20 bolt pattern. It would fit in regular stacks for larger quads too....just a thought.
@@outrunrc4720 I am quite certain that when more people start flying these, it will drop jaws all over the industry and this class will grow extremely quickly. I also feel it will primarily be a 2S class. It is actually a whole lot better on 2S. You get that punch back. On 1S there's really no punch at all. I'm hoping the 1103 solves that and do think 1202 will be where we ultimately land or around that. Maybe 1302.
Hey man thanks for you vids..I'm getting confused myself with your toothpick build with all the different motor options..it seems they all fly great but will you or do you have an idea which you like best for the final build?
Oh btw I don't think this is a fad..you called it on the 1108 range size motors and your right about this build for the future also. If people can't see your proof then they are just blind..
Your review was the first to mention the 16:9 video ratio. Thanks for the info! Despite not being 4:3, I think I'm still going to buy this other the BetaFPV and the Mobula 7.
Could you help me out? My trashcan seems to over react when hitting obstacles, like a bouncy rubber ball it just revs up the motors to full throttle... Is there an betaflight fix?
Thanks for giving me another class to look into. I'm starting out with the hobby, got my goggles and controller but getting an actual drone seems to be impossible for me: my mobula7 order got cancelled, now my trashcan is on back order, whatever that may mean... I was about to order some 5" parts, but indeed, everybody seems to freak out if they hear or see such a "powerful" quad. Don't think I can wait till you get your setup perfected out, so I'll look into what Mr ShutterBug does/uses.
Lol who freaks out around a 'powerful' quad? I think these new brushless whoops are good beginner options as is my little carbon frame thing. It's really simple and super duper durable with the low weight.
Hi Kabab, i crashed my trashcan and 2 motor shafts where a little bend and it was unflyable. I bended them a little back and was flying a pack when the power dissapeared so i thought the battery was empty. Now it doesnt turn on anymore on batteries , it lights up with USB, and when i connect a battery i can read the voltage in betaflight. It doesnt seem to be the power-lead since it can read voltage and cells etc. I can also power the motors in betaflight full speed. What the .. can this be?
@@Kabab Yeah that might do the trick man thank you very much! I can see that same regulator on a national reseller website here. What AWG should i add to the cart? He's using pretty thick ones but i dont know what size.
@@Kabab Isnt all the amp draw going through a thin wire then? Edit: I'll just add some 24awg to my cart, i've got some thin wire laying around :) Thank you man i was close to throwing that thing away since i already ordered a new FC. But i might fix it now and make a Toothpick gheheheh.
I like dedication. So I love a (near) perfect whoop for indoors (like emax tinyhawk) and a correct sized 2S micro as an outdoor toy. So kV could/should be sized for 2S without throttle limit. No need for a compromise.
anybody know a lens to give the micro eagle better vertical fov without warping out,,,, stock matches the runcam split v2 but the 2s seems too much to actualy fly with in 16-9
Can I use LHCP patch antenna with RHCP Cloverleaf antenna on my furious fpv true d module ? Or should they both be LHCP or RHCP ? What combo will give my the best reception ? On the quad I am using RHCP Cloverleaf antenna. Can any fellow FPV peeps help me out ? I'm still new at all this. Thanks.
You can use LHCP with RHCP but it won't be as good as a match between the two. Alternating polarities typically helps reject other channels that are nearby and opposite polarity.
Washout is just vortex ring state AFAIK. Your frame/prop choice doesn't have that issue because the rotors aren't loaded nearly as badly (larger props, no ducts, lighter weight all contribute).
I noticed your flight video has a lot less jello than the other 2 reviews I've seen, I'm wondering if the other guys didn't enable dynamic filter. I was curious if it was the tune or the frame...
It's possible they didn't. It's one specific throttle zone that it shakes violently. I was flying to stay outside that throttle point. You definitely see some jello in mine too. Also, they will all perform a little differently due to various differences in manufacturing of parts.
Would you post a link to the beta flight settings you changed or your configurations so others could know what items they should change when they buy this unit?
@@Kabab thanks... My main reason for originally ordering a trashcan was to have something with a bit more power then the tinyhawk with more of the durability of the Modula 7. That toothpick drone you are making looks very nice but with props that large any sort of indoor prop guard system would make it very large. I am still waiting to see when we will see something like your toothpick drone that can save nice 720p video. No doubt we will see more advancements in Runcam split style technology in 2019 and having hd in our woops will become common by the end of 2019.
Table of Contents:
00:15 - Flight video of Trashcan
02:38 - Flight video of Toothpick
04:20 - Camera
06:44 - Frame
07:40 - Motors
09:03 - 1S performance
10:11 - Insides
11:35 - Firmware
14:41 - My opinion of the product
20:48 - The little carbon frame
Eachine Trashcan: goo.gl/tD7QDH
Flying Toilet seat: ua-cam.com/video/tiKZ8p-cWzU/v-deo.html
Trashcan Alternatives:
Diatone 2019 GT R239 R90: goo.gl/DBnnke
TinyHawk (1S only): goo.gl/LrQiN9, goo.gl/8y66Gf
The other carbon frame videos:
Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/yUBwDGdeGjs/v-deo.html
Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/1M9WutEXIZc/v-deo.html
Settings I changed from default:
Set to 8k/8k PID and gyro rate
Turn off accelerometer
Turn on air mode
Turn on anti-gravity
Turn on dynamic filters
Set your arm switches
I set my rates to 1.44. might be high for many. I also don't like different rates for yaw pitch and roll. all 1.44.
Equipment I highly recommend:
Micro Eagle -
goo.gl/or1fS9
Rush Tank Vtx -
goo.gl/YMYmya
Fantastic solder-
amzn.to/2P5QM2W
TS100 iron -
goo.gl/DqBipa
goo.gl/svK6DD
amzn.to/2OV5XMh
WaFL’s Cap Cap
insta-stalker.com/profile/wafl.fpv/
goo.gl/9CZdAs
Tips?
PayPal: www.paypal.me/kababfpv
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This is off topic on this video but I know you like the Talon f4 flight controllers. It was after one of your videos that I got a few. Have you had any issues getting the receiver to work? I'm using the r xsr receiver, it's bound, powers on, uart1 serial rx switched in BF, uart 3 is smartport, serial receiver and sbus selected in Config, and tried the CLI commands Inverted ON. I can't get stick movements in the Receiver tab. It's got to be something simple I'm overlooking. Any help would be appreciated, I know it difficult through text sometimes.
@@damienkrohse3374 ua-cam.com/video/YnEDqGZwPpo/v-deo.html This may be your problem.
@@markwestbrook3313 I finally figured it out. I saw that video, I think I've seen them all now lol. I knew about the whole inverted/uninverted stuff, trying to change it in the cli, if that doesn't work solder a wire onto the micro pad. I guess when I tried the wire on the solder pad it wasn't a great connection the first time. To add to the frustration I had to update my radio and was thinking I messed something up in that process. Thanks for the input and taking time to help, it's appreciated.
@@damienkrohse3374 No worries my friend, I have had the same problem myself with recievers and other stuff, this is a great hobby especially if you build as well as fly but hell its frustrating as a simple little era can cause headaches for hours sometimes day's. All part of the fun, and the sense of achievement once you figure things out is a bonus. :)
Love how you do this on your posts!!! Lets us know where in the post 2 go!!!! I like this little whoop!
Just waiting for the dys kitchen sink to come out
😂😂😂
I'm waiting for the Armattan AshTray :D
Someone's gonna have to throw it eventually....personnaly, Bob's flying prius is a much more promising concept. I ordered a bat 100 frame and magic props for my Mobula 7 as I wait for the Toothpick to be available.
Happy New Year by way!
@@yannickg6904 what do you plan to do with the bat100 frame? The fc mounting is 16x16.
I'm ok with scaling throttle down on a switch to fly indoors and flipping the switch if I want to go outside. The main point is that it doesn't weigh enough to damage something inside but also can be fun at a park.
Im excited for a completed Toothpick. Or at least the components that you recommend to make it.
Thank you for putting all the effort in making the toothpick, trying different components etc. This is something I’ve been dreaming of since flying the original inductrix and it’s finally in the realm of possibilities with all these new brushless motors and electronics. A „real“ micro quad. Thank you!
thanks for the detailed review and recommendations! you mentioned soldering on a receiver with a crazybee F4 Pro board that has the SPI FrSky receiver integrated. there is enough pads to get it working. i did it for my brother since he had x9 lite which only supported D16 and there is the D16 dropout bug on Crazybee non-EU FrSky boards.
1. soldered SBUS out from R-XSR to IRX1 (the inverted RX1) and set Betaflight Ports for UART1 to Serial RX, deselected Smart Audio on Peripherals.
2. soldered S.Port from R-XSR to LED Strip pad, soldered VCC and Ground to LED Strip 5v and ground pads
3. desoldered Smart Audio and resoldered to TX2 and set Peripherals for UART2 to Smart Audio.
4. Enabled Softserials
5. ran CLI: resource
6. found pin for LED Strip (A00 in my case)
7. ran CLI: resource SERIAL_TX 11 A00
8. ran CLI: save
9. set Softserial#1 in Betaflight Ports to Smart Port on Telemetry Out
You should sell a Trashcan upgrade kit including your frame, props a receiver/antenna if possible, maybe some lower KV motors & a good camera.
But it would probably be as expensive as the trashcan itself, so maybe it's better to bundle the two together in order the make the price less deterrent...
And eachine would be happy for licensing fees...
3d printed canopy, other props, new antenna, good batteries and xt30 and you are good to go!
Not that much money..
The footage of the Toothpick is just mesmerizing. I want one of these so badly.
Gonna try making a long range 'super whoop' with an r9m receiver and 200mw :)
Gonna use a 16x16 stack however
Just a suggestion, but look at the Trainer 66 or 90 as a cheap source of parts. Just use a larger frame for the 65mm props.
@@yannickg6904 I already have some motors(1103) and a cam(the cheap by one)
@Quick FOx I did my inductrix bl with crossfire. Works great! Took 2 days of fooling with it to get it right.
@@absolutecarpetcare cool, looking forward to good results with an r9 mini!
Yes, why not make whoop with crossfire then? And I would not be surprised about some "lost my whoop" weeps in forums after :D
Where do I get your frame 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Working on it
@@Kabab l still have one of those little frames, from 5 or 6 years ago, cool to see how we are still trying to make this little frame fly right.
I want one
Cant wait to buy your frame!
🔥🔥💯💯
Can you upgrade the reciever to get a longer signal range?
Yeah you should be able to. This quad is really bad compared to other things these days however
This is one of the most intelligent reviews I have watched.
I think the firmware now day's is so good that it can make even a heavy trashcan fly well. So much whoop hype right now. Everything is the best thing too come out so far... Firmware I recon. You make good content mate. I watch your stuff even if I'm not interested in the product or the subject matter. Honest and informative. I get ideas about what I want in a Quad and that's helpful. I never get that "this is the answer, this is the be all of the FPV".. the perfect drone rubbish that a lot of people do. You just love FPV... Stay true bro. Love ya work.
Agreed 😀
Every new quad someone sends a UA-camr now is "THE BEST QUAD YET, COMPLETE GAME CHANGER!!!!!". Lol
I think they should've made a 4:3 and a 16:9 version allowing you to choose which one you want.
no, 16 better
Just swap out the camera if you want 4:3. They're something like $13 !! Big deal... Simple swap. 👍
People bitch too much... Stop putting the effort into complaining and put it into solving the issue, if there is one.
No question the future of FPV, and anything to do with video, is 100% 16:9. Ask yourself this... What else in the world uses 4:3 still as a video format? NOTHING! Everything HD IS 16:9, so just get used to you owning the past, if you own 4:3 goggles, and seeing more and more 16:9 in FPV. Because 4:3 is slowly dying... Way too slow IMO. It's a dead aspect ratio in EVERYTHING else. 🤔😁🤘
@@scootroter4859 l thing once people really get into fpv, they spend the big money on a good fatshark googles which are 4:3. Myself, l find l like 4:3 better as l am flying up and down, not just side to side, therefore like the field of view better.
Scoot Roter disagree - if you consider how a lens works, 16:9 is cropped compared to 4:3, and you lose vertical field of view which is important. In recording HD footage, widescreen is great, but not flying. 4:3 is far from dead in that regard
@@ZylonFPV I agree. You lose vertical fov with 16:9. With 4:3, you have the same amount of vertical fov and horizontal fov.
Love 16:9 on a native sensor.. but agree that cropping should never happen in these things.
I like 16:9 for MORE horizontal fov, not less vertical. Eagles & Monsters til I die!
Just watched the rest.. agreed on pretty much all counts. Your stuff is great because whether you agree or disagree, there's something we can do with those ideas. Maintains the stoke for flying and trying new things. Thanks for that!
Re: 2S on whoops, I think it's more or less pointless. Defeats the purpose of whoop-class things for me. Personally, I think the sub 5" sweet spots (with current lipo tech & electronics) are 1s for 31-40mm props, 2s for 2"-3", 3S for 2.5"-4" - Yes there's some overlap.
This is what we need (or at least what I need): 5 inch flight characteristics, high quality camera/vtx, crossfire, and durability...so we can fly anywhere, especially in small parks and the tight spaces where we live...looking forward to the evolution...the BHR was almost there but durability lacked
Racerstar released today the new 0804 and 0806 motors, look into them, 0806 10000kv on 2s could be mind blowing in 65mm props. Also you can add a separate reveiver to the crazybee... Just give up smartaudio and do the uninverted hack on the Rx
Looks good but I'm betting the wider motors will work better. 65mm is enormous for such a tiny motor. Also, ~3.9g is really the limit in motor weight for this tiny size. After that it starts to require 2S and becomes a power quad.
Dear Bob, I want to give some input to this topic. Last year I built a small copter to carry a Split mini. I even did some thrust tests with different props. The magic 65mm KK Prop was the winner. Combined with a Racerstar 1103 @ 8000kv I get flight times of about 6:30 (slow flying) with an 2s GNB 450.
As I did the thrust tests I did a test run with a cutted 65mm KK to 60mm. The result was, up to a thrust of 70g the efficiency of both was more or less same. Then I cutted it down 55mm --> up to 50g about the same efficiency. So by cutting I just lost max. thrust. All @ 7,66V: 65mm --> 88g; 60mm --> 78g; 55mm --> 64g.
What I want to say: When your motors are too fast please try to cut the props. This would enable a smaller = lighter frame and by reducing the prop weight... I think you got my point.
Yeah I understand. The 65mm prop is truly magical. They're making the triblade version for me and I'm really hoping it'll just be a bit more magical. I also believe we will ultimately end up with a 1202 or 1302 motor.
Make a bnf KababFPV kit. Ultimate hd whoop. 😉
+1.... take my money now...I would be IN Pre-Order.
I would by it , i truth this guy a lot , espically when he talks for half an hour !
i ordered this as my first whoop, hope i get first gd experience, finger crossed
Stop teasing us with that toothpick build and give us frame and prop package to play with : ) cheers ! Awesome work!
Btw...my snapper7 (with happymodel dvr) is on the OR table waiting impatiently to be a parts donor!
I see no issues with 2S in whoop. If 2S provide enough boost to handle whoop in air better then why not use it? Especially if home is so large as yours. Set lowered throttle rate for indoor 2S flying in one of rate profiles and switch between them from OSD or by transmitter switch.
The purpose for whoops like Mobula7 and Trashcan is to make them usable in both home and outdoors. For me at now these whoops Mobula7 with possibility to fly in both 1S and 2S configurations are a God's gift because of winter here when weather is not compatible for flying outdoors. Also because recently I lost my workshop and don't know when I will be able to fly with 5" racers again. Impossibility to reach a top of skyscraper doesn't matter to us here at all. We haven't so tall buildings around :)
The issue with weight is that it's not always relatable to power. Meaning if you have more power, it doesn't mean you'll have excellent performance. There's a fine line between where the props act sort of like wings and control surfaces rather than just thrust machines to keep you from falling into the ground. It's hard to explain but if you fly a light weight craft with a really good disk loading factor you'll realize how nice and easy it is to control and how enjoyable it is compared to something overweight where you're always on the gas and there's no real in-between from falling and rocketing. Both have their merritt's, to me, whoops don't feel great when overweight regardless of how much power there is.
@@Kabab I know about what you are talking about. Too heavy quads become flying cows indeed - not much fun in flying them. The trick is to find not to heavy batteries. For these 2S whoops 260..300 mAh LiHV batteries are still in acceptable weight limit. 450 mAh is already too heavy :)
I was about to buy one and watched some other reviews. However something was off about the DVR footage and I decided to not get one as I prefer a wide FOV.
So cheers for pointing out the 16:9 camera that others didn't mention. It all makes sense now.
You're not missing out on anything. I promise. There will be a dozen more and honestly this thing isn't that fun to fly. It actually flies a lot like the DRL racer 3 😂🙈
Thank you! Finally, something I would call a review and not the usual "honest review", "mindblowing", "gamechanger" bla bla
Hi again, just seen there seems to be a way of setting up a tbs crossfire nano receiver on the Mobula 7 board by the looks
Yes seems like there is
With 5/6A ESC and 1103 motors we are back in the same realms of the old Emax Babyhawk specs. From memory I think those motors were 1104 around 5000kv.
I've not flown that model for about a year. I bet that FC (although only F3) and power train would look pretty good on this type of setup now. Especially with new Betaflight 4.0 firmware.
You have high expectations, keep them there! If we all want it, eventually someone will make it. Just don't be afraid to put this one on the back burner again until the technology catches up. It's come a long way since your brushed flying Prius model.
I'm gonna make it catch up. Working on it...
@Kabab FPV what do you think of the AIO hive 16 stack for the toothpick build? Seems like they are coming out with something similar. Was wondering the pros and cons in your opinion for your build. Thanks!
Looks good. Also seems expensive 😁
Try flysky I found it has better range in these AIO boards.
This. All the flysky aio Ive flown have more RC range than video
I have been super impressed with the range I am getting from the micro 25/100 mw vtx boards in my GoFly Falcon's. Its very small and costs like 17 dollars. Putting a whole GoFly stack on one of your frames...with T-motor F-10's...Would be insane...The whole stack is about 95 and 50 for the motors...The Cp 90 Falcon I built with T-motor F-10's is seriously one of my highest performance quads. I learn massive info.on your channel. practicing dive bombs all the time. Your awesome. Bob!
Thumbs up on using GoFly products, they are really underrated. I love my stock CP90.
Betaflight has some new(ish) throttle limit features that are perfect for super powerful 2s brushless micros like this. Rather than using your radio for throttle limits, you can go into BF configurator and set an upper throttle limit but have it still scale to your entire stick range. What's great about doing throttle limiting this way is that the PID controller can still go beyond your set throttle limit to give each motor the authority it needs. But you don't have to worry about the quad blasting off to the moon if you give full stick deflection.
For example. you could set a 50% throttle limit in scaled mode. This means 100% throttle on the stick only gives %50 throttle to the quad. But you still have the full stick range from 1000-2000. So you actually end up getting more throttle precision because you're using the original stick range to control a smaller throttle range.
I wonder if the PID controller does actually take advantage of that. I've wondered that for a long time and believe that's why micros washout. But I don't really know.
Caddx do a eos2 4:3 camera that can be replaced. 160 degree FOV too. But it Comes with a female instead of a male plug So a little modification is needed. Also the none receiver model I purchased has a UART on the board inverted or standard which will enable a separate tx to be connected. I have a crossfire nano with the race xf antenna connected and works perfectly.
Ah, the first honest review , we need to know the issues rather than glowing reviews . Keep up the good work.
Have you tried the betafpv 1103 11000kv motors? And cant you just use the trashcan canopy to mount the cam?
Have some on the way
Can you change the receiver the R9 mini? If so I would be very curious as to how. or is the receiver built in?
Yeah you just solder an external Rx on
There's the no-receiver option you can put your own receiver choice on. Might not end up weighing much more that way and get all the range you want.
Wow a glowing review for the trashcan! Eachine are killing it lately. what's next? HGLRC sewage pipe? Emax $ht hole?
Well not.glowing but pretty good
If I buy the frsky version, can I add an external receiver? Or I can only add the external receiver if I get the pnp version?
apparently you can add an external Rx on the pads used for smart audio but you may have to do some other software tricks to get it to work as well. I haven't done it so I'm not sure.
Would one be able to use the trashcan canopy on the toothpick frame?
probably not but I haven't tried
also you can run this indoors on 1s actually was looking to buy this for a step up from my e0110 tiny whoops for something I can still fly indoors as I cant fly my 5 inch indoors and for what you get for that price isn't really too bad in comparrison to it's compettion
You can fly this on 1S, yes. But it's not very good on 1S. The TinyHawk is night and day better on 1S than this is. But the TinyHawk only does 1S. The trashcan is so bad on 1S that it's unlikely you'll want to fly it on 1S more than once just to see.
Awesome review. Wish others had your honesty.
I love the skit at the beginning lol
22:43 What about the Crazybee F4 Pro without Rx and put a XF Nano or a R-XSR on it?
Working on it right now
Is the range on the betafpv AIO board any better? The one in the 75 pro 2. It's F4 as well
It's about the same. A little better.
what should i put my rates to for not always loosing control in acro? I just got this, only have a few hours of experience with eachine wizard
Try lower rates. A regular rate of 0.9 with super rate of 0.60 and no expo
Please adjust Betaflight to the best settings for this Wastepaper basket! 8k/8k, dynamic filters, air mode, proper rates, etc, etc, etc. Tweak it. Then fly it again and let us know how it goes. WE ALL APPRECIATE you doing this and giving us your exoerience opinion.
BTW, that's the best thing about your channel. You give a strong opinion, which we VALUE for your knowledge! And, you don't give a crap about what the manufactures think about what you say. You're not a shill! 🤔😉👍
Yeah that's what I already did.
Oh, ok, I wasn't sure about that. Thanks!
Awesome video, did you try literally H style frame for these micros? My thinking is you will get shorter arms, in general, within same motorspan than X style frame and reduce weight even more
i.imgur.com/ULtzMM1.png Here I made a quick sketch, Might have used wrong sizes for the board and props, but I think it is at least more clear what I am talking about
the H shape is gonna require more carbon material which means more weight. Would work fine however
@@Kabab how come? If you maintain the spacing for motors and the base for the board, X-style arms will be roughly 40% longer, thus wasting more material. Or I am wrong somewhere and cant figure out it. Happy new year though. Check out the rough design I attached in the link in the previous answer to this
How would a F4 ESC+FC improve things? ESCs would be 4.3A. You still have to add an AIO camera and a receiver. I'm thinking of combining two open source projects, the tinypepper 4in1 with dronemesh F4 fc.
F4 FC allows you to run 8k/8k which on these micros, does actually help. I dunno what's going on in the firmware at all but it is actually better in real world use
i'm curious. is there a benefit to big props that those whoops use ? the hubs look so big. and what are your tri blade press on props going to look like ?
you mean the benefit of the large prop on my carbon frame? The larger prop gives you a far better disk loading factor which provides massive, MASSIVE improvements in control, stability and efficiency. Compare the flight performance of the two at the beginning of the video. The trashcan is fast but kinda wobbling all over the place with wonky performance whereas my little carbon frames fly like a full blown 5" quad with very high control and stability. Both the trashcan and my carbon frame are essentially using the same components. Actually the trashcan has the advantage of an F4 and larger motors.
I mean props on whoops with prop guards around them. I really like your build, a lot more than whoops with prop guards. I only own two whoops, so I can't speak for all of them. but the prop guards act like sound amplifier and make a lot of noise for its size and speed. and it might scare people. whereas your build, it flies great and is very quiet. and people tend not to care. where I fly, there are not many people but they walk by from time to time. and I really don't want them to ask me to leave.
I would be curious to hear what you have to say about the tiny leader as it seems to have all the good parts in it. I think a tinyhawk 2s would be the perfect drone as l found the 2" babyhawk r did everything right for the way l like to fly, just to big and heavy for flying close to people and small places, like little parks or front yards.
I think I have one coming.
Hi man...
Can you send the PID settings... Please
Or Dump file..
This was a while ago so I don't have the quad anymore but I'm pretty sure default BF 4.1 should work out well.
@@Kabab ok please could you can send it to me mate 🤞☺️😘 because i has do updates framework updates and it was done eras it
@@daralaujam default betaflight. Just restore defaults.
@@Kabab well done... It work now great job man🤞👍👍 Good luck
@@Kabab thanks very much
EaChine will make board with F4 and custom RX and AIO with RX, lets wait!
I LIKE THE TRASHCAN NAME.... GOES ALONG WITH ALL THE TRASHY FLYING POSER PILOTS ON UA-cam making videos....(except Bob's of course) Nothing wrong with radio range, it does great for close proximity acro flying... Plan on attempting a Matty stuntz flip with mine instead of bashing my good quads
The EU version of the Mobula7 comes with a genuine FrSky XM+ and has very good range (but occupies the only UART). So, yeah, that's an option if you are ready to trade 3 additional grams of weight for good range.
So what changes would you suggest to Pids or overall betaflight setup to improove the flight charakteristics?
I have them listed in the description of the video :-)
Oh sorry for being blind...
Thanks a lot. Very in depth review!
I allready ordered one but after watching your video wasn't as sure about it as i was before.
But I enjoy flying around parks and people as much as you so my GT M3 is not allways the best option.
Thanks for your videos they really help beginners or intermediate pilots like me.
Im interested to see your thoughts on the tiny leader
I think I have one coming but am betting they'll be similar complaints.
Just got my mobula lastweek and the modes are also setup already and the super rates are in 1.0 stock
Happy new year! Gonna hold off getting another 2s BLWhoop until the Toothpick comes out. I already have enough of them now :)
I would trade the Led on the rear for a regular receiver.. Then again, a smaller vtx, and the 4/3 EOS2 would be nice too.. A few requirements I feel..
I like 16:9 better than 4:3, but I am going to have to adjust - since I just bought my first fatsharks recently.
Hello Kabab, may I ask why you suggest turning off the accelerometer in whoops?
Because most of us don't use them and it slows down the FC
@@Kabab I see, thanks for the reply :)
@@Kabab So it's only used for any assisted modes? If so then I won't need it. Thank you for including this information in your video.
Hi! What do you think, will Trashcan manage to carry 650mah batteries in
either 1S and 2S connections?
And how it seems vs Eachine Novice 1?..
I wouldn't recommend either of these. Get a mobula 6 if you're looking for something Chineese and simple
What are the beta flight settings you suggest? Mine is currently ordered and on the way and I want to be ready.
Also, what do you think about converting it to an xt30 power connector?
Should be in the video description I think ?
@@Kabab oh, snap!
Sorry about that
Is it available on banggood? Or do you have Idea where can iby one?
What the trashcan? Yeah link in description. My little carbon frame I'm still working on
Loving all the content, lots to catch up on when the family stuff dies down.
I wanna see the frame you have the mobula7 crazybee fc on please?And have you thought about the tips of the frame with bumpers that the motor is recessed down into to protect the motors a bit and maybe make a couple out of forged carbon 🖒🖒
Forged carbon is 100% garbage. Not to be used in any quad product imo. Motor bumpers are built into my most recent design. Check out the link in the video description for more. I'm working on some things
Nbd 16x16? It's a little heavier but you can add crossfire. Might it be an alternative?
It is an option but I believe these newer aio boards are more reliable
@@Kabab ahh thanks
I ordered the 4:3 camera and it will be here before the TS, have HD V2 goggs so it was a necessity. Good thing is, it's 11 bucks and will be here before the TS ships :). Keep up the good work and Happy New Year.
I like the betafpv 75x on 2S, but it's far from perfect too! I just wanted something to survive the monsoon season indoors, but this thing is capable of running outside with the big dogs! Washout is unavoidable sometimes, but I've learned to handle the throttle with care and that goes a long way to avoid it. The XM+ that comes stock along with the 200mW VTX (on the 75X) let's me dive buildings and hit gaps at speed just like the 3" and 5". The trashcan should have a better receiver, no excuse for that, nor the limited vertical FOV on the FPV cam. Swapping the frame sounds like a good idea for the trashcan. The 75X has an unbelievably tough frame. I think I'll pass on the can. Too many better options. Nice work with that frame, now I want a toothpick frame too!
The Caddx EOS2 is available in a 4:3 version, so while it is an added expense, it would be an easy fix. Also the Trashcan is available without a receiver, so an XM+ would fix the range issue. I don't know what the mounting options are for the receiver but it would certainly be better if the built in RX option had decent range. Thanks for the review, if one of these finds it's way into my shopping cart, it will be without a receiver.
They make a micro xm with one antenna, it will fit anywhere.😁
@@LegitimaMax yeah I have an XM with antenna taped to one of the ducts on my Zer0 whoop and it can easily go beyond the limits of 25mw VTX with a dipole.
Thanks for your review.
I did order the TrashCan a few days ago because I really do not fly my 5” as often as I would like. In front of my house there is a great flying spot with fields, some trees a little lake and bicycle lanes, however I do not like to bother the neighbors so I only fly there once or twice a month. That’s why I found the trashcan interesting. I’ve ordered the no-RF version so I can put in the nano Crossfire and the Micro AXII and a bunch of TBS 300mah 2s HV, to be able to cover some distance.
I will definitely add a Caddx EOS 2 4:3.
After having some fun I would really like to transfer to your frame. When and where can I get the toothpick frame?
Thanks for the beta flight recommendations, because I’m a Kiss person.
Maybe the Trashcan name is to put customs on the wrong foot ;)
Hopefully within a month
I'd bet the tiny hawk handles washout better because of the pusher prop config. Washout is caused by dropping into your own prop wash and losing power and authority because of it with a pusher config you'll have more power because there's more air space that the prop is moving into. I know with a little 8.5 brushed build I did awhile back with a houseracer frame that's pusher it recovered a lot quicker than even a lighter build using the same components but standard tractor style props.
I just flew it again right now. The TH's 1S performance is night and day better than the trashcan. I wouldn't even bother running the trashcan on 1S. It's a total waste of time. It's a combo of the aggressive broad blade props, better balance and pusher that makes the TH perform better overall. Both in washout and everywhere else.
@@Kabab Ya I would expect something from Emax to perform better, eachine is mostly about building stuff to a price. I can't wait for your toothpick frame I love 1s quads super cheap batteries and safe to fly basically anywhere. Currently the bat-100 is my go to frame but it requires building a stack doesn't quite fit the 66mm props and it's pretty cheap carbon as well so I'm stoked at the extra performance and weight savings possible with the toothpick.
Loved the intro haha! Another great episode! :)
is wash out the same as vortex ring state..
Can a separate Rx like a XM or XM+ be added to the Trashcan FC and disable onboard Rx?
I believe so but haven't tried yet
@@Kabab I researched a little and info from a friend and yes a separate Rx can be added to a Crazybee F4 Pro (and F3 Pro) with a built-in Rx of any type. I will add a XM+ when I get mine (which is a FrSky version) which should be plenty of range for the 200mW VTX. Surprising more YT reviewers haven't mention the Rx range issue on this Trashcan or the very similar Mobula7 with the F3 Pro and essentially the same Rx.
Need about 3 of those toothpicks in my life! Any idea when we can get our hands on em? Don't forget to remind Trappy to build an AIO CRSF board every single day until he does it!
Unfortunately he won't do it. He feels it's a fad that will die off quickly
@@Kabab His feelings are ugly and wrong! I think you've got something real here and could see this filling a spot for me as a kind of park flyer. I'd probably fly the toothpick around my yard and parks more than I get the chance to fly my 3" and 5".
@@Kabab Frsky has designed flight controllers with integrated xm+ receivers. Maybe they would be interested in developing an aio with the R9M integrated into it and a 20x20 bolt pattern. It would fit in regular stacks for larger quads too....just a thought.
@@Kabab Sometimes I think trappy hates money
@@outrunrc4720 I am quite certain that when more people start flying these, it will drop jaws all over the industry and this class will grow extremely quickly. I also feel it will primarily be a 2S class. It is actually a whole lot better on 2S. You get that punch back. On 1S there's really no punch at all. I'm hoping the 1103 solves that and do think 1202 will be where we ultimately land or around that. Maybe 1302.
Hey man thanks for you vids..I'm getting confused myself with your toothpick build with all the different motor options..it seems they all fly great but will you or do you have an idea which you like best for the final build?
Yeah I'm gonna do more testing and let everyone know the best thing I find.
Oh btw I don't think this is a fad..you called it on the 1108 range size motors and your right about this build for the future also. If people can't see your proof then they are just blind..
@@royfryman2196 no this isn't a fad. With performance like this I'm quite certain this will be the year of the big prop whoops
ok boss man right now whats the best 1s dream macing? (im afraid the speeds im seeing on 2s is to fast for the park with my kids... )
Right now I'd say 0802 or 1103 in ~11000kv -ish on a sub 45g AUW with the King Kong 65mm props.
@@Kabab =/ I do thank you for the information but I was looking for more of a turn key solution if you have any suggestions on that front
Your review was the first to mention the 16:9 video ratio. Thanks for the info! Despite not being 4:3, I think I'm still going to buy this other the BetaFPV and the Mobula 7.
Could you help me out?
My trashcan seems to over react when hitting obstacles, like a bouncy rubber ball it just revs up the motors to full throttle...
Is there an betaflight fix?
It's trying to stablize itself and overcompensates. It's likely normal for it
@@Kabab thx for the help!!
So its the weight of it and other factors? My Us65 never did such weird things.
@@m.d.6649 make sure the dynamic filter is on as well as some of the other filters. Could help a lot
Thanks very much for the help, you dont get that very often !
@@Kabab what other filters would you suggest and is there a way to change specific filter settings in the pid settings for example
I'm sold!!! When can we buy these tiny little monsters you've made!!!
hopefully within a month
Thanks for giving me another class to look into. I'm starting out with the hobby, got my goggles and controller but getting an actual drone seems to be impossible for me: my mobula7 order got cancelled, now my trashcan is on back order, whatever that may mean... I was about to order some 5" parts, but indeed, everybody seems to freak out if they hear or see such a "powerful" quad. Don't think I can wait till you get your setup perfected out, so I'll look into what Mr ShutterBug does/uses.
Lol who freaks out around a 'powerful' quad? I think these new brushless whoops are good beginner options as is my little carbon frame thing. It's really simple and super duper durable with the low weight.
Very impressive flying btw.
Hi Kabab, i crashed my trashcan and 2 motor shafts where a little bend and it was unflyable.
I bended them a little back and was flying a pack when the power dissapeared so i thought the battery was empty.
Now it doesnt turn on anymore on batteries , it lights up with USB, and when i connect a battery i can read the voltage in betaflight.
It doesnt seem to be the power-lead since it can read voltage and cells etc. I can also power the motors in betaflight full speed.
What the .. can this be?
Unfortunately it sounds like the 5v regulator on your board has burned out 😣. There is a way to fix it. Check out Albert Kim's channel. He has a way.
@@Kabab Yeah that might do the trick man thank you very much! I can see that same regulator on a national reseller website here. What AWG should i add to the cart? He's using pretty thick ones but i dont know what size.
@@boratsagdiyev1586 probably 24awg or just use some camera wire
@@Kabab Isnt all the amp draw going through a thin wire then?
Edit: I'll just add some 24awg to my cart, i've got some thin wire laying around :) Thank you man i was close to throwing that thing away since i already ordered a new FC. But i might fix it now and make a Toothpick gheheheh.
@@boratsagdiyev1586 this is just for the 5v. The while quad doesn't run on 5v. There is almost zero Amps
Aomway commander v1s are 16.9 😎
So what would be the right KV for 2S on tooth pick and on whoops? 9000-10000 KV ?
I think maybe 10000 or 11000 for 1S and it'll still work on 2S with an endpoint limit
I like dedication. So I love a (near) perfect whoop for indoors (like emax tinyhawk) and a correct sized 2S micro as an outdoor toy. So kV could/should be sized for 2S without throttle limit. No need for a compromise.
anybody know a lens to give the micro eagle better vertical fov without warping out,,,, stock matches the runcam split v2 but the 2s seems too much to actualy fly with in 16-9
Just add an external RX on the fc. You can add x-fire to it or just an xsr.
Can I use LHCP patch antenna with RHCP Cloverleaf antenna on my furious fpv true d module ? Or should they both be LHCP or RHCP ? What combo will give my the best reception ? On the quad I am using RHCP Cloverleaf antenna. Can any fellow FPV peeps help me out ? I'm still new at all this. Thanks.
You can use LHCP with RHCP but it won't be as good as a match between the two. Alternating polarities typically helps reject other channels that are nearby and opposite polarity.
@@Kabab Ok I get it now. thanks for helping out the new guys. Love your channel.
Washout is just vortex ring state AFAIK. Your frame/prop choice doesn't have that issue because the rotors aren't loaded nearly as badly (larger props, no ducts, lighter weight all contribute).
I noticed your flight video has a lot less jello than the other 2 reviews I've seen, I'm wondering if the other guys didn't enable dynamic filter. I was curious if it was the tune or the frame...
It's possible they didn't. It's one specific throttle zone that it shakes violently. I was flying to stay outside that throttle point. You definitely see some jello in mine too. Also, they will all perform a little differently due to various differences in manufacturing of parts.
I love these reviews. 👍🏼
US65/UR65 with the special 65mm props?
The 0703 will work but just barely.
Whats the hole spacing on the micro boards? Should I make one with a Crossfire Nano built in?
Reverse engeneering that shouldn't be too hard.
25mm for the aio board. 16mm for the regular micro stacks
@@Kabab ok i'm gonna try that with the aio size.
the components can be just tranferred over.
did you take a look at the motors of the KingKong GT7 or GT8? they are 0803 9000kv or 0804 7500kv. they could fit the 66mm prop quite well
They would work but I'm looking forward to testing the 1103 first. Hoping it'll be the IT motor for the prop.
don't forget the 1.5mm drill to increase the holes on the 66mm prop. that's why my miracle whoop with 1103 10000kv sits still on my bench :D @@Kabab
@@blackforestfpv3046 yep. Already have them.
Put a crossfire nano rx on it. A couple people i know put them on their tinyhawk and it works great.
planning on it but I need a super small stubby antenna too.
Very good review ty,Kabab
Would you post a link to the beta flight settings you changed or your configurations so others could know what items they should change when they buy this unit?
Oh sure. Forgot to put those in there. I'll add to the description
@@Kabab thanks... My main reason for originally ordering a trashcan was to have something with a bit more power then the tinyhawk with more of the durability of the Modula 7. That toothpick drone you are making looks very nice but with props that large any sort of indoor prop guard system would make it very large.
I am still waiting to see when we will see something like your toothpick drone that can save nice 720p video. No doubt we will see more advancements in Runcam split style technology in 2019 and having hd in our woops will become common by the end of 2019.
I hope you didn't loose your job or so xD but what ever it is.. It's just awesome how much content you created in the last few weeks!
Na just had time off
How's the battery life on 200mw vs 25mw?
With such a short flight time you're unlikely to notice a significant difference in flight time. It's about 2-3min
Sooooooo are you saying that getting the no reciver option resolves the issue?
Yeah but then you need to add your own Rx
@@Kabab If it helps no problem for me
@@Yamy-py8su yeah. Working on it...