Thank you for this video! It came in handy when I was driving from the East to West coasts of the United States in my Saab 9-3 and suddenly got a check engine light / code for the spark plugs. Felt great and was necessary to DIY in an O'Reilly's parking lot and then get on my way to make it to Flagstaff in time.
Great video, clear and concise, very helpful. I changed the plugs in my wife's 2008 1.8t last night and not before time! The plugs I pulled out (fitted under a previous ownership) were all loose and were Bosch plugs! I replaced them with the correct NGK plugs which I ordered from Saabtech Parts and were Saab Original, all in little individual saab boxes. After seeing your post I checked the number and it says PFR6D-10G on the box. I know there was a little discussion in the comments about this and the verdict was PFR6T-10G is right. It seems like both are correct and it does not matter which are fitted. Anyway the car seems much happier now as the old plug gaps were huge! The car has only 60k on it so they must have been changed for no real reason at some point. Thanks again. Keep saabing.
These had 6Ts fitted at the factory. I mistakenly left mine in for 75k miles not realising the change interval is 36k. As you see in the video the gap was enourmous, but it still ran okay. It did run better with new plugs though. So, it is possible you took out your factory original plugs. Anyway, that's by the by. Good job, and welcome aboard.
I've now replaced mine in my 08 plate 2.0T B207R engine The old spark plugs that I took out were NGK PFR6D-10G and the idle on the car was good but fluttered slightly. I've now put in the new ones NGK PFR6T-10G and it idles so much better with not flutter and it starts up slightly quicker as well.👍
Consider servicing the injectors and FPR and changing the vacuum lines (video next weekend) and the throttle intake hose. Despite the loss of compression (valve problem) I've just done 240 miles round trip to Manchester and she was running smooth as butter giving 40mpg (that's with a stage 1.5 Maptun - can't wait to fit my Abbott head). if you haven't already, get rid of that plastic tee before it leaves you stranded www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-64088985
I look forward to the video on the vacuum lines. Which hoses did you upgrade too? I've got the metal T to replace the plastic one, just don't fancy the anti freeze going everywhere! Would I lose all of the anti freeze from the header tank? Anyway to avoid it? Also I'm going to get my car upgraded with the Maptun running device think it goes to 250bhp and 365nm ?
Hi cyd, My old 93 vector 2.0 A hook on one plug dropped of into the cylinder, noticed a misfire, then stalling. They were ngk, On my current saab 2.0 aero, I took out the ngk's, and fitted bosch quad fire super 4 plugs, Gapped to 0.09mm. I watched your great vid And did not know T8 Pulsed the plugs. I have to say I have had no errors with the bosch, car starts first time, allways, no misfiring, and on removal they look to be burning OK. Just that I lost a little faith in the ngk ones. My friends aero 2.0 with gas conversion and noobtune, used to eat coils, Untill he changed to one grade colder iridium plugs, His coil problem has disappeared. It's nice to use original spec parts, and I allways try to, but sometimes it pays to think outside the box, Particularly when the engine has been tuned beyond its factory release. Love the videos cyd, Long may they continue.
Hey Cyd! Thanks so much for all your help! Unfortunately, I'm on a tight budget. Can you recommend a cheaper plug (even copper) that the T8 system will tolerate? I'm stock, no tune.
Hey Mr! You're the only UA-camr who wrenches with nice clothes on!😳😆 Great video as always😊 The only thing I want to add is that for a stage 3 ng9-3 that is between 270-300 hp, the copper ngk bcpr7es plugs work great and have a much smaller gap (0,85) as required at stage 3. These plugs have to be changed very regularly though...with every oil change. That's what I run in mine and I know most stage 3 guys in Sweden run these cheap but great plugs as well.
Sort the other 3, then take the car for a drive to warm it up. Remove the 'stubborn' plug with the engine hot. Pay attention to this ua-cam.com/users/shorts3YUGaK-7ttc Clean all the plugs and the threads in the head with brake cleaner.
@@CycloneCyd thanks Cyd! My buddy thinks it might be cross threaded because along with the blow back, I can move it a little tighter (cold) but it won't budge backwards at all (cold). I'm gonna try what you recommend as my next step and hope it's not cross threaded.
Hi Clay, sorry about the delay replying. Happy to help. Thanks for the compliment. Your neighbours car is a 2 litre like mine? If yes, show him this video, these plastic tees are breaking with monotonous regularity (the plastic degrades over time and with heat) ua-cam.com/video/Rkdbdg4ilRk/v-deo.html
Another great vid Cyd thanks. Quick question. I have a 07 9-3 Aero. B207 R Engine. When I search sites - neo bro etc it always says PFR6D-10G. Do you know the difference between the "T" or "D" ? Many thanks.
Hi there, what do you know?? YES, I know the answer. The D plug has a rounded ground electrode and are the ones Neo sell. They say these are a "special" Saab fitment and are the correct plug. Hhhmmm!! I'm unconvinced. The B207 came out of the factory with the T plugs. WIS says to use T. Haynes says to use T. NGK say to use T. I've just fitted my car's third set of Ts. I'll leave that with you.
Thanks for the video. My 9-3 aero has developed cylinder 4 misfire so I think I will change the plugs this weekend. Probably needs done at 113k anyway!
Should be changed every 36k miles or thereabouts. i accidentally left mine in for 70k miles - these new ones made a difference but it was runing 'okay', which was surprising (it's down on compression though)
Hi Nahas, yeah, I think there's a load of people wanting to know that too, it's a common issue. I've been sidetracked by covid-19 tho'❗ Right now I'm doing a garden makeover at home after being _"forcibly retired"_ (we've decided to stay instead of downsizing). That and doing a headlights refurb series which was more urgent because the Saab's headlights are like candles❗❗ I will get round to it 🖖👌
Loved your video, it was a great help from beginning to end! Got through this project with ease. One comment though: I purchased the exact plugs you recommended. When I removed my original set (2010 9-3 with 100k miles) the plugs were the “D”, and not the “T” as you suggested came from the original factory install. Haven’t put any miles on them yet, but engine runs very smoothly. Thanks again for your help.
your videos are just fantastic man. Thank you so much for taking the time and energy into speaking to us in the manner you do. Your videos have saved me hundreds and just basically answered everything so far. Even down to the sizes of what we need. Absolutely A1. Will buy you that coffee instead of the local mechanic±
Turning the sparkplugs anticlockwise until they click before tightening clockwise. Is that a Saab specific thing or should I be doing that with any petrol car's sparkplugs? It's not a thing I've heard to do before.
It's a natty little trick my Grandad taught me when I was a young pup. I do it almost on auto pilot with just about any screw I am putting back in. And yes any spark plugs. Cross threading plugs IS NOT a problem you want to create.
Love your videos! Quick question though about the torque specs. Are you sure its 15ft lbs? all the research I did said 21ft lbs. My saab is a 07 i dont know if that matters.
Another great video Cyd...I paid a mechanic to replace my plugs recently...I’ll do it myself next time. Also noticed your comment about the plastic engine cover. Can’t wait to see your videos on your solution for keeping the ECM cooler and on testing the spark plug coils. Thanks again!
Great video 👍not long bought myself a 2007 facelift saab 2.0T I've had a few saabs over the years. You mentioned about the cover that protects the ecu. Agree with you there why did they mount the ecu where there is a lot of heat and vibration. I look forward to seeing how you going go about to protect the ecu.
Very nice! It's heat is the big killer here more so than vibration. Luckily these are very smooth engines. All the same, I've never seen another engine ECU mounted *on* the engine!
Now that you mention the intercooler. You say you have a front mounted intercooler, would you mind sharing how you went about it, how big it is and how its bolted on? I have seen a few videos and most seem a bit messy and not to detailed. Also alot of them way you need to push back the AC condenser when instaling a FMIC, is that really needed?
I've simply moved the stock IC to in front of the cooling pack. It's gotta be the best "zero cost" mod ever. Drop the IC out, push the condensor back to the rad (gently) and remount the IC in front. I had to use a few strong tie wraps, but the hoses reach fine. I'll put a graph in the community tab so you can see the performance difference.
Is the part number for the spark plug actually on the plug, I suspect my garage when replacing the engine of my 2007 9-3 with a 2004 engine i supplied to them, used the wrong plugs as I'm getting the error no activity from the knock sensor.
They are good for 36,000 and maybe more. I accidentally left mine in for 72,000 and the car still ran okay. With a low mileage like yours, i would inspect them at 3 years and if they are still good, put them back. Any sign of the gap widening abnormally or sooting or oiling then obviously replace. A lot will depend on whether your mileage is made up of less frequent longer journeys or frequent short journeys, the latter being harder on an engine in lots of respects.
Hi Cyclone Cyd (and other viewers ). I see it's been mentioned in comments below by Chris Ed and TopSpoke.. Has anyone else had issues with fitting PFR6D-10G rather than PFR6T-10G? I have 9-3 2005 1.8T model. I purchased a full service kit from Neo-Bros but was sent the 'D' variant plugs. Upon checking this vid mentioning to use 'T' variant, I went online at other motor factors, 2 sites suggest that I should use 'T' Variant. One site had a technical breakdown on the plugs but essentially, seems like 'T' variant is for up to 31/12/2007 and the 'D' variant is from 1/1/2008...... ALTHOUGH BOTH TECHNICAL NOTES FOR BOTH THE 'T' and 'D' PLUGs SAY THEY ARE FOR Techdoc Engine No. B207E..... As my car is 2005, I checked with Neo-Brothers explaining why I'm asking the question, but response was a fairly swift ...'the D's are the correct plugs'... I'm a little apprehensive about fitting, but then I don't really want to go drop £40 on a set of T's if the D's work okay. I would have assumed Neo Bros would have had reports back if customers were having issues using the D's over the T's.. Any thoughts / experiences from other viewers of Cyd's would be very welcome. Thanks all.
I think you'll find it's the turbo bypass valve (BPV). Watch: ua-cam.com/video/AeD9qYbRNfw/v-deo.html Assuming you have the TD04 turbo there are links in the description to replacement BPVs. If you have the smaller garrett turbo, not sure right now on spares.
I don't know of any OEs that do this on new cars. So, no if they are new, but as they soften with age it is a good idea. Only needs a smear. Watch this: ua-cam.com/users/shorts_RRv2zpiVfY
Just went to change my spark plugs for the first time & realized the previous owner stripped one of the screws...anyone know how to remove stripped screws from an engine??🤦🏾♂️
@@CycloneCyd I replaced both spark plugs and DIC. The Number 2 spark plug doesn't sit straight in the middle but closer to the edges of the circle causing damage to the DIC.
@@ShepherdTeam6 Check you haven't put the plug in wonky and cross threaded it. P1312 is Ionisation module/sooted plugs. Also check wiring to ion module and DIC
Hey Cyd. I'm going crazy here. My spark plug in cylinder 2 keeps going bad recently. CEL comes on and I checked it twice in a row it's that one. I'm kind of stumped on what can be causing it.
@@abdomination burning out? That means running too hot. Most likely a weak mixture in that cylinder. Is the code you're getting for a misfire? P0302? I'd pull the injectors and get them cleaned, or at least pick up one 2ndhand one for #2. Check the wires to that injector too. All the way back to the ECU.
Any significant difference between NGK PFR6D10G and the one mentioned in the video, NGK PFR6T-10G. I have a b207e and I can't decide if it would be worth paying extra for the PFR6Ts
A very useful video as always.Did you ever replace any of the ignition coils or you still running with the initials ones? If you did replace any of them which brand do you recommend ? The originals are way expencive here in Greece and i heard that if you place aftermarket coils you get a lot of misfire.
No, I've never replaced any coils. It's still running on the factory originals after 154,000 miles. Yes, every forum I frequent says to use OE only (made by Mitsubishi), but I have no experience of this myself, since my coils are fine. Originals are expensive, but I still wonder if it's just scare mongering about aftermarket. These coils on Ali are about the same price for four as one original here in UK and if I needed coils I'd try them. bit.ly/B207_Ignition_Coils If you feel tempted, please let me know how you get on. _Footnote: as an Automotive Engineer I have a good 'feel' for how much things cost to make. Coils are not expensive to make, just overpriced in the marketplace. There is no reason to doubt their efficacy on price alone_
@@CycloneCyd My Saab after 80.000 miles runs just fine. But since i decided to own it as long as possible I'd like to be proactive . I did my research and i found this coils NGK 49066 from www.ngkntk.com/gr/ for 1/3 the price of the original ones but I'm not sure about them.
Hi! Would you be able to make a video of you changing all the vacuum hoses on your ng9-3? I have a NG9-3 Vector 2.0t - 2004, and are thinking about changing those, as I usually do with my 9-5. I could see a blue vacuum hose running in front of yours. I can't really find a good scheme of this in WIS. I hope you are doing well and stay safe! All the best, H
Well spotted, Hampus. yes, I've changed out a couple of hoses for blue silicone. You're right, WIS isn't much help. That's why I got blue - sort-of matches the car, but mainly it's easy to tell at a glance which hoses have been changed. My tactic was simply to go round the engine bay changing them until I can't find any more black ones! Most are 4mm - I got the hose here: bit.ly/Silicon_tubing
@@CycloneCyd Thank you so much, man! I really appreciate you taking your time answering to comments. I love your channel. I already have A LOT of 4mm silicon stacked up. I've changed out all the hoses on my 9-5 BioPower's, since they are always dry... :) I will change some today. All the best, Hampus
@@hampuslindstrom4333 on the B207 the fuel pressure regulator needs 3mm!! The only 3mm I've found. You could use 4mm and put 2x small tie wraps round it on each spigot. let me know if you try that and how it goes.
@@CycloneCyd I haven't changed that one yet, since I think I might have to replace the fuel pressure regulator. :) How many hoses did you replace in total? 4? I'm buying 3mm. However, I tried fitting the 4mm on there and it seemed to work out pretty fine, but I'm unsure. :) Thanks for everything, man!!
@@hampuslindstrom4333 I've only had to replace 4 hoses ATM. If you're getting 3mm, I suggest putting a smear of petroleum jelly on each spigot before pushing the hose on
Thanks for taking the time to make this. I like your way of explaining things. I have a question about my 2005 93 2.0t. I've had the stage one tune done when I bought it and it's been great with the automatic gearbox. I was getting around the 10L/100km before I had it serviced. I've noticed it doesn't start as smoothly, and my fuel consumption has jumped to 15L/100km. Could this be because the wrong plugs were fitted or a automatic choke problem as I was thinking before watching your video.
@Cyclone Cyd thanks I'll have a look and take it from there. The car is showing 18L/100km at the minute. Maybe it's just not reading right. I've noticed a pipe may be missing from the top section of the airbox facing forward, the air intake, Im guessing. I've been looking for pictures online to try and see what if anything, attaches that should draw cold air in from outside the engine bay instead of warm air from beside the engine.
@@joeyoung2959 no, you're not missing a pipe. That union on the airbox was for the SAI which was only fitted to 2003MY B207s. Look thro' my playlists, there's one about cleaning the intake system. Make sure it's all clean (sensors too) AND consider renewing all those little vacuum hoses (ua-cam.com/video/_cZEeTJxdaE/v-deo.html). Check for boost creep ua-cam.com/video/AeD9qYbRNfw/v-deo.html AND these air leaks ua-cam.com/video/bgLn14dZL3Q/v-deo.html
Thank you for this video! It came in handy when I was driving from the East to West coasts of the United States in my Saab 9-3 and suddenly got a check engine light / code for the spark plugs. Felt great and was necessary to DIY in an O'Reilly's parking lot and then get on my way to make it to Flagstaff in time.
Great video, clear and concise, very helpful. I changed the plugs in my wife's 2008 1.8t last night and not before time! The plugs I pulled out (fitted under a previous ownership) were all loose and were Bosch plugs! I replaced them with the correct NGK plugs which I ordered from Saabtech Parts and were Saab Original, all in little individual saab boxes. After seeing your post I checked the number and it says PFR6D-10G on the box. I know there was a little discussion in the comments about this and the verdict was PFR6T-10G is right. It seems like both are correct and it does not matter which are fitted. Anyway the car seems much happier now as the old plug gaps were huge! The car has only 60k on it so they must have been changed for no real reason at some point. Thanks again. Keep saabing.
These had 6Ts fitted at the factory. I mistakenly left mine in for 75k miles not realising the change interval is 36k. As you see in the video the gap was enourmous, but it still ran okay. It did run better with new plugs though. So, it is possible you took out your factory original plugs.
Anyway, that's by the by. Good job, and welcome aboard.
I've now replaced mine in my 08 plate 2.0T B207R engine
The old spark plugs that I took out were NGK PFR6D-10G and the idle on the car was good but fluttered slightly.
I've now put in the new ones NGK PFR6T-10G and it idles so much better with not flutter and it starts up slightly quicker as well.👍
Consider servicing the injectors and FPR and changing the vacuum lines (video next weekend) and the throttle intake hose. Despite the loss of compression (valve problem) I've just done 240 miles round trip to Manchester and she was running smooth as butter giving 40mpg (that's with a stage 1.5 Maptun - can't wait to fit my Abbott head).
if you haven't already, get rid of that plastic tee before it leaves you stranded
www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-64088985
I look forward to the video on the vacuum lines. Which hoses did you upgrade too? I've got the metal T to replace the plastic one, just don't fancy the anti freeze going everywhere! Would I lose all of the anti freeze from the header tank? Anyway to avoid it?
Also I'm going to get my car upgraded with the Maptun running device think it goes to 250bhp and 365nm ?
How would you service the Fuel pressure regulator and injectors?
Hi cyd,
My old 93 vector 2.0
A hook on one plug dropped of into the cylinder, noticed a misfire, then stalling.
They were ngk,
On my current saab 2.0 aero, I took out the ngk's, and fitted bosch quad fire super 4 plugs,
Gapped to 0.09mm.
I watched your great vid
And did not know T8
Pulsed the plugs.
I have to say I have had no errors with the bosch, car starts first time, allways, no misfiring, and on removal they look to be burning OK.
Just that I lost a little faith in the ngk ones.
My friends aero 2.0 with gas conversion and noobtune, used to eat coils, Untill he changed to one grade colder iridium plugs,
His coil problem has disappeared.
It's nice to use original spec parts, and I allways try to, but sometimes it pays to think outside the box,
Particularly when the engine has been tuned beyond its factory release.
Love the videos cyd,
Long may they continue.
Great video on spark plug changing. Thanks
Hey Cyd! Thanks so much for all your help! Unfortunately, I'm on a tight budget. Can you recommend a cheaper plug (even copper) that the T8 system will tolerate? I'm stock, no tune.
This was very helpful, Thank You !
Muchas gracias muy interesante y muy bien explicado gracias
Hey Mr!
You're the only UA-camr who wrenches with nice clothes on!😳😆
Great video as always😊
The only thing I want to add is that for a stage 3 ng9-3 that is between 270-300 hp, the copper ngk bcpr7es plugs work great and have a much smaller gap (0,85) as required at stage 3. These plugs have to be changed very regularly though...with every oil change. That's what I run in mine and I know most stage 3 guys in Sweden run these cheap but great plugs as well.
Hey Payman, thanks for that info, I'm sure it will be useful to know
Does it have to be that specific ngk model plugs or can you use any NGK plugs
Yes, PFR6T-10G. Other plug codes are for other cars. Are you having trouble sourcing them locally?
Doing these now and noticed the 3rd plug chamber is discolored from the other 3 and the spark plug won't loosen. Any advice?
Sort the other 3, then take the car for a drive to warm it up. Remove the 'stubborn' plug with the engine hot.
Pay attention to this ua-cam.com/users/shorts3YUGaK-7ttc
Clean all the plugs and the threads in the head with brake cleaner.
@@CycloneCyd thanks Cyd! My buddy thinks it might be cross threaded because along with the blow back, I can move it a little tighter (cold) but it won't budge backwards at all (cold). I'm gonna try what you recommend as my next step and hope it's not cross threaded.
Hey Clyde great video needed to do one for a neighbor here thanks brother…… btw you’re better at making videos than me lol 😂 oh
Hi Clay, sorry about the delay replying. Happy to help. Thanks for the compliment.
Your neighbours car is a 2 litre like mine? If yes, show him this video, these plastic tees are breaking with monotonous regularity (the plastic degrades over time and with heat)
ua-cam.com/video/Rkdbdg4ilRk/v-deo.html
Awesome video! You got a like from me!
Thanks for the visit
Hi Cyclone Cyd, did you manage to make a video regarding the potential overheating of the ECU? Cheers!
I was about to comment this 😂 I’m considering getting a spacer for mine as well, they’re on eBay for about £100. Good investment I’ve heard.
It's easy to make your own, a piece of all thread bar, 12 nuts to suit, a 150mm square x 20mm of tuffnol board,
A drill, and some oven baking foil.
Another great vid Cyd thanks. Quick question. I have a 07 9-3 Aero. B207 R Engine. When I search sites - neo bro etc it always says PFR6D-10G. Do you know the difference between the "T" or "D" ? Many thanks.
Hi there, what do you know?? YES, I know the answer. The D plug has a rounded ground electrode and are the ones Neo sell. They say these are a "special" Saab fitment and are the correct plug. Hhhmmm!! I'm unconvinced. The B207 came out of the factory with the T plugs. WIS says to use T. Haynes says to use T. NGK say to use T. I've just fitted my car's third set of Ts. I'll leave that with you.
@@CycloneCyd many thanks for the reply, sounds solid advice, I agree, I'll stick with the "T" too. Cheers Cyd.
Thanks for the video. My 9-3 aero has developed cylinder 4 misfire so I think I will change the plugs this weekend. Probably needs done at 113k anyway!
Should be changed every 36k miles or thereabouts. i accidentally left mine in for 70k miles - these new ones made a difference but it was runing 'okay', which was surprising (it's down on compression though)
Great video. Waiting to learn how to test the ignition coils. :)
Hi Nahas, yeah, I think there's a load of people wanting to know that too, it's a common issue. I've been sidetracked by covid-19 tho'❗ Right now I'm doing a garden makeover at home after being _"forcibly retired"_ (we've decided to stay instead of downsizing). That and doing a headlights refurb series which was more urgent because the Saab's headlights are like candles❗❗ I will get round to it 🖖👌
Loved your video, it was a great help from beginning to end! Got through this project with ease. One comment though: I purchased the exact plugs you recommended. When I removed my original set (2010 9-3 with 100k miles) the plugs were the “D”, and not the “T” as you suggested came from the original factory install. Haven’t put any miles on them yet, but engine runs very smoothly. Thanks again for your help.
100,000 miles on one set of plugs? You sure?
your videos are just fantastic man. Thank you so much for taking the time and energy into speaking to us in the manner you do. Your videos have saved me hundreds and just basically answered everything so far. Even down to the sizes of what we need. Absolutely A1. Will buy you that coffee instead of the local mechanic±
I appreciate that! Thank you
Turning the sparkplugs anticlockwise until they click before tightening clockwise. Is that a Saab specific thing or should I be doing that with any petrol car's sparkplugs?
It's not a thing I've heard to do before.
It's a natty little trick my Grandad taught me when I was a young pup. I do it almost on auto pilot with just about any screw I am putting back in. And yes any spark plugs. Cross threading plugs IS NOT a problem you want to create.
Love your videos! Quick question though about the torque specs. Are you sure its 15ft lbs? all the research I did said 21ft lbs. My saab is a 07 i dont know if that matters.
Yep, str8 out of the Haynes. 15 for coil fixing, 21 for plugs
Another great video Cyd...I paid a mechanic to replace my plugs recently...I’ll do it myself next time. Also noticed your comment about the plastic engine cover. Can’t wait to see your videos on your solution for keeping the ECM cooler and on testing the spark plug coils. Thanks again!
Glad to help, Adam. I'll have to get on to those projects, eh?
Great video 👍not long bought myself a 2007 facelift saab 2.0T I've had a few saabs over the years. You mentioned about the cover that protects the ecu. Agree with you there why did they mount the ecu where there is a lot of heat and vibration. I look forward to seeing how you going go about to protect the ecu.
Very nice! It's heat is the big killer here more so than vibration. Luckily these are very smooth engines. All the same, I've never seen another engine ECU mounted *on* the engine!
Now that you mention the intercooler. You say you have a front mounted intercooler, would you mind sharing how you went about it, how big it is and how its bolted on? I have seen a few videos and most seem a bit messy and not to detailed. Also alot of them way you need to push back the AC condenser when instaling a FMIC, is that really needed?
I've simply moved the stock IC to in front of the cooling pack. It's gotta be the best "zero cost" mod ever. Drop the IC out, push the condensor back to the rad (gently) and remount the IC in front. I had to use a few strong tie wraps, but the hoses reach fine. I'll put a graph in the community tab so you can see the performance difference.
Is the part number for the spark plug actually on the plug, I suspect my garage when replacing the engine of my 2007 9-3 with a 2004 engine i supplied to them, used the wrong plugs as I'm getting the error no activity from the knock sensor.
It usually is, yes.Defo on the NGKs
🎥 B207x oil change: ua-cam.com/video/bnHmVTX0tkE/v-deo.html
Do you have a link to that brand of socket wrench set you are recommending? Ubiquitous brand?
All my sockets are Halfords Professional or Draper Expert.
Hi Cyd, would you replace a set of these NGK's that have only done just over 12k in three year's? Thanks
They are good for 36,000 and maybe more. I accidentally left mine in for 72,000 and the car still ran okay. With a low mileage like yours, i would inspect them at 3 years and if they are still good, put them back. Any sign of the gap widening abnormally or sooting or oiling then obviously replace. A lot will depend on whether your mileage is made up of less frequent longer journeys or frequent short journeys, the latter being harder on an engine in lots of respects.
Another great video Cyd, I've learnt so much about my Saab through watching your videos! 👍👏
Glad you like them!
Hi Cyclone Cyd (and other viewers ).
I see it's been mentioned in comments below by Chris Ed and TopSpoke.. Has anyone else had issues with fitting PFR6D-10G rather than PFR6T-10G?
I have 9-3 2005 1.8T model. I purchased a full service kit from Neo-Bros but was sent the 'D' variant plugs. Upon checking this vid mentioning to use 'T' variant, I went online at other motor factors, 2 sites suggest that I should use 'T' Variant.
One site had a technical breakdown on the plugs but essentially, seems like 'T' variant is for up to 31/12/2007 and the 'D' variant is from 1/1/2008...... ALTHOUGH BOTH TECHNICAL NOTES FOR BOTH THE 'T' and 'D' PLUGs SAY THEY ARE FOR Techdoc Engine No. B207E.....
As my car is 2005, I checked with Neo-Brothers explaining why I'm asking the question, but response was a fairly swift ...'the D's are the correct plugs'...
I'm a little apprehensive about fitting, but then I don't really want to go drop £40 on a set of T's if the D's work okay.
I would have assumed Neo Bros would have had reports back if customers were having issues using the D's over the T's..
Any thoughts / experiences from other viewers of Cyd's would be very welcome.
Thanks all.
How do I know that I’m applying exactly 27 Nm / 20 lbft ?
By using a torque wrench. These plugs have a crush washer, so nip down by hand only, then add 1/2 to 2/3 a turn. They'll be spot on then.
I don't suppose you have any suggestions for a slightly low idle? A recent occurrence.
Nice,i am running NGK BCPR7ES-11, bad idea?
A 9-3 guru in the US swears by those. Never tried them myself. If it runs okay, leave it.
Eek I should probably change mine after 101k
101k? I'd be very surprised if they lasted that long. unless it's got iridiums in.
Vry NICE!..wht causes my P0033?..hd 1 bad coil..replaced..OK/no check engin light..still P0033?.. Thnk Y
I think you'll find it's the turbo bypass valve (BPV). Watch: ua-cam.com/video/AeD9qYbRNfw/v-deo.html
Assuming you have the TD04 turbo there are links in the description to replacement BPVs.
If you have the smaller garrett turbo, not sure right now on spares.
Thanks. Is dielectric grease required on the coil boots?
I don't know of any OEs that do this on new cars. So, no if they are new, but as they soften with age it is a good idea. Only needs a smear.
Watch this: ua-cam.com/users/shorts_RRv2zpiVfY
Just went to change my spark plugs for the first time & realized the previous owner stripped one of the screws...anyone know how to remove stripped screws from an engine??🤦🏾♂️
Hello sir, I have a 2010 9-3, will the PFR6T-10G compatible?
Hi, did you ever make that ECU video you mentioned I cant find it anywhere on your channel.
nice one cyd can you do one for
vw polo and show us how to set gap with tool
ua-cam.com/video/o0txaIBxteQ/v-deo.html
NGK IFR 6D10 Iridium Spark Plug. OK.
Hi Cyd,did you do a video on better ECU cooling?
Thank you.
Great video thanks, did you ever get round to making that video on testing the coil packs?
No, not yet, but I will after I've done the headlights rebuild
@@CycloneCyd thanks for the videos been a real life saver for me👍
What a perfect video straight forward and clean thanks 🙏🏼
for Saab 9-5 2008 aero has a misaligned spark on second slot. Any reason why that might be and how to correct? I've tried replacing it didn't work.
What did you replace? The DIC? No2 spark plug? Under what conditions does it misfire?
@@CycloneCyd I replaced both spark plugs and DIC. The Number 2 spark plug doesn't sit straight in the middle but closer to the edges of the circle causing damage to the DIC.
@@CycloneCyd it has a hard start and giving me a p1312 code the spark plugs are NGK
@@ShepherdTeam6 Check you haven't put the plug in wonky and cross threaded it. P1312 is Ionisation module/sooted plugs. Also check wiring to ion module and DIC
@@CycloneCyd yeah thats the 1000 dollar question I hope 🙏 not.
Hey Cyd. I'm going crazy here. My spark plug in cylinder 2 keeps going bad recently. CEL comes on and I checked it twice in a row it's that one. I'm kind of stumped on what can be causing it.
What does "going bad" mean? Symptoms, eml codes, visual appearance?
@@CycloneCyd plug burning out
@@abdomination burning out? That means running too hot. Most likely a weak mixture in that cylinder. Is the code you're getting for a misfire? P0302?
I'd pull the injectors and get them cleaned, or at least pick up one 2ndhand one for #2.
Check the wires to that injector too. All the way back to the ECU.
@@CycloneCyd code is random misfire
@@CycloneCyd but ever since I got this car it always seem to run a bit warm and I get fuel smells on cold starts
Any significant difference between NGK PFR6D10G and the one mentioned in the video, NGK PFR6T-10G. I have a b207e and I can't decide if it would be worth paying extra for the PFR6Ts
Yes 100 percent because the car is only supposed to use that specific pfr6t-10g plug otherwise you will get misfires and engine sputters eventually
The motor still going strong mate good I still have loads of parts if you ever need pal
Thanks Cyd you're the man!
👍👍
Did you ever release a video on how to keep the ecu cool with the plastic cover on?
I am planning to. I've got a plan, just need to get the parts and prototype it out on my car first before announcing it to the world.
@@CycloneCyd looking forward to that video as I could benefit from it. Cheers
A very useful video as always.Did you ever replace any of the ignition coils or you still running with the initials ones? If you did replace any of them which brand do you recommend ? The originals are way expencive here in Greece and i heard that if you place aftermarket coils you get a lot of misfire.
No, I've never replaced any coils. It's still running on the factory originals after 154,000 miles.
Yes, every forum I frequent says to use OE only (made by Mitsubishi), but I have no experience of this myself, since my coils are fine. Originals are expensive, but I still wonder if it's just scare mongering about aftermarket. These coils on Ali are about the same price for four as one original here in UK and if I needed coils I'd try them. bit.ly/B207_Ignition_Coils If you feel tempted, please let me know how you get on.
_Footnote: as an Automotive Engineer I have a good 'feel' for how much things cost to make. Coils are not expensive to make, just overpriced in the marketplace. There is no reason to doubt their efficacy on price alone_
@@CycloneCyd My Saab after 80.000 miles runs just fine. But since i decided to own it as long as possible I'd like to be proactive . I did my research and i found this coils NGK 49066 from www.ngkntk.com/gr/ for 1/3 the price of the original ones but I'm not sure about them.
@@marcokahny709 does he facing any misfire by put them on ? Thanks for the informing.
@@marcokahny709 Disconnect the battery 's negative pole for about an hour and maybe the engine light switch off . Please keep me inform .
@@georgekolotouros9176 If you do get any of those NGK coils, please let us know how you get on with them.
yes but not for biopower :) its then 7esc-11
How about the NGK laser iridium plugs? As good as the Platinum? Better?
I heard the BCPR7ES are better than both
Thank you
You're welcome
Very Good
Thank you! Cheers! 🍻
Thank you!
Sir, you have been a salvation for me... my beautiful saab 9-3 aka Saabrina and I thank you soooo much.
Lmaoo “saabrina” such a good name 😂
@@edycastillo893 thanks her daddy named her that.
Thank you Cyd!💖
Hi!
Would you be able to make a video of you changing all the vacuum hoses on your ng9-3? I have a NG9-3 Vector 2.0t - 2004, and are thinking about changing those, as I usually do with my 9-5. I could see a blue vacuum hose running in front of yours. I can't really find a good scheme of this in WIS.
I hope you are doing well and stay safe!
All the best,
H
Well spotted, Hampus. yes, I've changed out a couple of hoses for blue silicone. You're right, WIS isn't much help. That's why I got blue - sort-of matches the car, but mainly it's easy to tell at a glance which hoses have been changed. My tactic was simply to go round the engine bay changing them until I can't find any more black ones! Most are 4mm - I got the hose here: bit.ly/Silicon_tubing
@@CycloneCyd Thank you so much, man! I really appreciate you taking your time answering to comments. I love your channel.
I already have A LOT of 4mm silicon stacked up. I've changed out all the hoses on my 9-5 BioPower's, since they are always dry... :) I will change some today.
All the best,
Hampus
@@hampuslindstrom4333 on the B207 the fuel pressure regulator needs 3mm!! The only 3mm I've found. You could use 4mm and put 2x small tie wraps round it on each spigot. let me know if you try that and how it goes.
@@CycloneCyd I haven't changed that one yet, since I think I might have to replace the fuel pressure regulator. :) How many hoses did you replace in total? 4?
I'm buying 3mm. However, I tried fitting the 4mm on there and it seemed to work out pretty fine, but I'm unsure. :) Thanks for everything, man!!
@@hampuslindstrom4333 I've only had to replace 4 hoses ATM. If you're getting 3mm, I suggest putting a smear of petroleum jelly on each spigot before pushing the hose on
Thanks
Very nice well done!!
Thanks Josh
Thanks for taking the time to make this. I like your way of explaining things. I have a question about my 2005 93 2.0t.
I've had the stage one tune done when I bought it and it's been great with the automatic gearbox. I was getting around the 10L/100km before I had it serviced. I've noticed it doesn't start as smoothly, and my fuel consumption has jumped to 15L/100km. Could this be because the wrong plugs were fitted or a automatic choke problem as I was thinking before watching your video.
It could be wrong plugs. Should be PFR6T-10G as per factory fit
OR
Fit Denso IQ24 - just fitted a set to mine and they are awesome.
@Cyclone Cyd thanks I'll have a look and take it from there. The car is showing 18L/100km at the minute. Maybe it's just not reading right. I've noticed a pipe may be missing from the top section of the airbox facing forward, the air intake, Im guessing. I've been looking for pictures online to try and see what if anything, attaches that should draw cold air in from outside the engine bay instead of warm air from beside the engine.
@@joeyoung2959 no, you're not missing a pipe. That union on the airbox was for the SAI which was only fitted to 2003MY B207s.
Look thro' my playlists, there's one about cleaning the intake system. Make sure it's all clean (sensors too) AND consider renewing all those little vacuum hoses (ua-cam.com/video/_cZEeTJxdaE/v-deo.html).
Check for boost creep ua-cam.com/video/AeD9qYbRNfw/v-deo.html
AND these air leaks ua-cam.com/video/bgLn14dZL3Q/v-deo.html
RUBBISH
Thank you for your astute and insightful comment. I'll be sure to take them into account.
Rubbish? He has helped thousands of people how to change there spark plugs for free…. How is that rubbish