Nice video. Two steps I would do differently: When draining oil, remove fill plug first to make sure you can get it out. If you drain fluid then discover you're unable to crack the fill plug you have a huge problem. Ask me how I know. Removing the fill plug also allows for quicker fluid drain. A smaller point is that I would do the fluid refill before reassembling the bottom cover and supports in order to not leave any spillage behind.
It seems like the most important part, which is correctly adding the right amount of gearbox oil was not included. Is this done through getting the transmission up to temperature and adding till it just dribbles?
I did a video on that thats not publisched yet. The level is indicated in the workshop manual, its supposed to be 2-3 mm below the filler hole bottom edge
great video, one quick question , I don't have a lift. if I put the car up on all four wheels using an equal amount of cut pieces of a 2 x 10 board will this effect the alignment with having weight on the wheels when reinstalling crossbar members?thanks for any help.
Without knowing for sure I would not recommend it, I would say its better to just lift it in the rear and prop it up on the rear lift points. The key thing is that after you removed the cross bar is to not shift the car around. Alternatively you could drill guidance hole and then see how much you are off and adjust the hole accordingly with a grinding tool. Then you dont have to remove any of the plating
So in my case that I can only use rear wheel ramps and Two jacks to level the front of the car, should I have problem reinstalling the alu pan and brackets?? I cannot have the rear wheels hanging. Thank you and waiting your reply. Chris(Cayman base 2008 pasm, six speed manual)
I would recomend you do a wheel alignemnt after and also you need to check its safe to go under the car removing the bolts holding the suspension together. Would not recommend it. Rather put the rear on axel stands instead so you dont have load on the wheels
A steam cleaner take care of more then you can imagine. Then a polishing disk on the angle grinder. First a more coarse paste and then step it up to finer and viola ;-)
Hey Tobe, Great videos. Do you change oil in a tiptronic gearbox and if so, how much in sek!? Bor i stockholm men kan ta mig en längre bit isåfall Du har bättre priser och koll på hur man gör. Med eller utan videos skulle jag aldrig våga själv. Tack så Mkt och jag heter Coxter S på Porsche dot nu ;)
Thanks :-) Sorry for late reply. Ang din fråga så är detta ren hobby verksamhet så jag ger mig inte på saker jag inte vet att jag klarar av. men vet att det finns flera duktiga verkstäder i Stockholms området, meddela om du vill ha tips. Flyttar själv tillbaka dit i April.
911s73targa I might not mention that in the video but you absolutely have a point. What I did was that I made sure to balance the car so it's completely flat in both length and side to side. And absolutely do not lift the car up or down until all suspension parts are back on and torqued to specification
If you balance the jackstands out and dont touch them after setting the car down on them I dont see why you wouldnt be able to do that? The principal is the same.
I guess not, but it's a pain in the ass to work off jackstands on suspention parts like that. I really don't like going under a car on jackstands either way. Not even with blocks under the wheels. But I am inclined to just got a hole in the subframe right away, It's aluminium, location of the drainplug is not a secret. Should be able to make a nice clean hole with the right circular cutter.
If you are prepared to cut the hole thats absolutley the way I would go. Its directly to the left, depending if you view from top or bottom ;-) and if you drill a guide-hole some 2 cm (~=1 inch?) in the same centreline as the already existing hole you are pretty close
Nice video. Two steps I would do differently: When draining oil, remove fill plug first to make sure you can get it out. If you drain fluid then discover you're unable to crack the fill plug you have a huge problem. Ask me how I know. Removing the fill plug also allows for quicker fluid drain. A smaller point is that I would do the fluid refill before reassembling the bottom cover and supports in order to not leave any spillage behind.
It seems like the most important part, which is correctly adding the right amount of gearbox oil was not included. Is this done through getting the transmission up to temperature and adding till it just dribbles?
I did a video on that thats not publisched yet. The level is indicated in the workshop manual, its supposed to be 2-3 mm below the filler hole bottom edge
I just did mine until it started coming back out ...
Would you be so kind to write the Nm forces torque for all bolts pls?
Followup from Staff: "Do not cut holes in the cover. It is structural support for the chassis, assuming we are speaking about the metal cover."
great video, one quick question , I don't have a lift. if I put the car up on all four wheels using an equal amount of cut pieces of a 2 x 10 board will this effect the alignment with having weight on the wheels when reinstalling crossbar members?thanks for any help.
Without knowing for sure I would not recommend it, I would say its better to just lift it in the rear and prop it up on the rear lift points. The key thing is that after you removed the cross bar is to not shift the car around. Alternatively you could drill guidance hole and then see how much you are off and adjust the hole accordingly with a grinding tool. Then you dont have to remove any of the plating
So in my case that I can only use rear wheel ramps and Two jacks to level the front of the car, should I have problem reinstalling the alu pan and brackets?? I cannot have the rear wheels hanging. Thank you and waiting your reply. Chris(Cayman base 2008 pasm, six speed manual)
I would recomend you do a wheel alignemnt after and also you need to check its safe to go under the car removing the bolts holding the suspension together. Would not recommend it. Rather put the rear on axel stands instead so you dont have load on the wheels
Unfortunately, this is only half of the video needed to do a transmission fluid change. You'll have to imagine the rest.
How do you get the parts so clean? Wire brush on a drill bit and electric buffer??
A steam cleaner take care of more then you can imagine. Then a polishing disk on the angle grinder. First a more coarse paste and then step it up to finer and viola ;-)
Is this the same thing as the PDK fluid change?
Not quite lol
Hey Tobe,
Great videos. Do you change oil in a tiptronic gearbox and if so, how much in sek!? Bor i stockholm men kan ta mig en längre bit isåfall Du har bättre priser och koll på hur man gör. Med eller utan videos skulle jag aldrig våga själv.
Tack så Mkt och jag heter Coxter S på Porsche dot nu ;)
Thanks :-) Sorry for late reply. Ang din fråga så är detta ren hobby verksamhet så jag ger mig inte på saker jag inte vet att jag klarar av. men vet att det finns flera duktiga verkstäder i Stockholms området, meddela om du vill ha tips. Flyttar själv tillbaka dit i April.
BTW - hittade inte din user på sidan, är oxå medlem: TobbeMagnetpro
is there any problem or risk to suspension alignment in taking this subframe off?
911s73targa I might not mention that in the video but you absolutely have a point. What I did was that I made sure to balance the car so it's completely flat in both length and side to side. And absolutely do not lift the car up or down until all suspension parts are back on and torqued to specification
Thx, probably best done on a bridge/lift like yours and not with floorjacks and jackstands..
If you balance the jackstands out and dont touch them after setting the car down on them I dont see why you wouldnt be able to do that? The principal is the same.
I guess not, but it's a pain in the ass to work off jackstands on suspention parts like that.
I really don't like going under a car on jackstands either way. Not even with blocks under the wheels.
But I am inclined to just got a hole in the subframe right away,
It's aluminium, location of the drainplug is not a secret.
Should be able to make a nice clean hole with the right circular cutter.
If you are prepared to cut the hole thats absolutley the way I would go. Its directly to the left, depending if you view from top or bottom ;-) and if you drill a guide-hole some 2 cm (~=1 inch?) in the same centreline as the already existing hole you are pretty close