ive been watching your videos for a good amount of time now and when i get to the front end of my prerunner build im gonna single piece fiberglass a fron hood based on the instructions from your videos. thank you Bill for teaching people how to feed their families and not charging them a dime.
Always learn something from your videos Bill. I had thought you’d spoken previously about “sharp corners” being a problem when laying fibreglass or carbon, yet the splitter uprights are all 90 degree sharp edges you’re laying the carbon on. Is it different when using sheet rather that chopped, or is it to do with a mould versus a layup like this? I am soon to be making some dashboard and bonnet moulds and so want to understand where I need to use clay to fillet edges etc, thanks.
The CF cloth i used took the ninety degree bends better than fiberglass because it was a lighter weight. These days I ALWAYS bevel my internal ninety degree bends when using fiberglass, whether its on a mold or on a copy in a mold.
I recently acquired some body panel molds, so I have a question. Do You think steel tube frame would be needed for doors, or going from regular fibeglass mat to kevlar or carbon would suffice? Thanks in advance and best of wishes, Alex
Hi Bill - does the poly board need to be sanded to have the epoxy bond to it? I have heard that it does, and also that it doesn't. Thanks for the video :)
I didn't sand mine on this job obviously, but then again I like polyboard because epoxy and poly resin won't stick to it. With this job I think the cloth being wrapped right around the polyboard overcame that factor. Any sanding would certainly need to use a very coarse grade, like 40 grit.
What type of plastic corrugated board, ABS? I’ve been thinking about doing this with fibreglass and polyester resin, but want to make sure the board doesn’t dissolve.
The board is Coreflute - available in most hardware shops, or from Real Estate agent signs. However poly resin will now adhere to it, which actually makes it great for laying car floors in place, because of the easy release.
I've always wanted to make carbon door skins. It would be easy enough. Just a thick and thin layer of carbon layed on an old sheet of glass and roll the resin in. But it's still going to cost me $150 or so and I can aluminium for like $20
![DO NOT MAKE CARBON FIBER PARTS AT HOME (Making Charge Pipes) [DIY] with CR-Scan Lizard](/img/n.gif)
ive been watching your videos for a good amount of time now and when i get to the front end of my prerunner build im gonna single piece fiberglass a fron hood based on the instructions from your videos. thank you Bill for teaching people how to feed their families and not charging them a dime.
Bill, after following along with the channel for the past 15-16 years now, I can really say that you sir, really are one of UA-cams GOAT's
Thank you - that is very kind of you. I only wish my channel view numbers matched your assessment!
@BillsBuildandRace I still suggest your channel to this day. You really deserve the exposure. Please keep it up sir.
An excellent pick-up truck with cool features.
As soon as you started talking about the airbox I thought: "That would be a cool video"....Can't wait to see it!
Always learn something from your videos Bill. I had thought you’d spoken previously about “sharp corners” being a problem when laying fibreglass or carbon, yet the splitter uprights are all 90 degree sharp edges you’re laying the carbon on. Is it different when using sheet rather that chopped, or is it to do with a mould versus a layup like this? I am soon to be making some dashboard and bonnet moulds and so want to understand where I need to use clay to fillet edges etc, thanks.
The CF cloth i used took the ninety degree bends better than fiberglass because it was a lighter weight. These days I ALWAYS bevel my internal ninety degree bends when using fiberglass, whether its on a mold or on a copy in a mold.
11:07 Now, let's talk about hearing protection
WHAT DID YOU SAY??? 🤣
I recently acquired some body panel molds, so I have a question. Do You think steel tube frame would be needed for doors, or going from regular fibeglass mat to kevlar or carbon would suffice? Thanks in advance and best of wishes, Alex
PM me pics of the molds so I can advise you properly, as technique will depend on how they are shaped.
Great video, thank you!
Do you have in person classes ?
Hi Bill - does the poly board need to be sanded to have the epoxy bond to it? I have heard that it does, and also that it doesn't. Thanks for the video :)
I didn't sand mine on this job obviously, but then again I like polyboard because epoxy and poly resin won't stick to it. With this job I think the cloth being wrapped right around the polyboard overcame that factor. Any sanding would certainly need to use a very coarse grade, like 40 grit.
Thanks for the clarification @@BillsBuildandRace
What type of plastic corrugated board, ABS? I’ve been thinking about doing this with fibreglass and polyester resin, but want to make sure the board doesn’t dissolve.
The board is Coreflute - available in most hardware shops, or from Real Estate agent signs. However poly resin will now adhere to it, which actually makes it great for laying car floors in place, because of the easy release.
realy strong!!! 💪🏼
I've always wanted to make carbon door skins. It would be easy enough. Just a thick and thin layer of carbon layed on an old sheet of glass and roll the resin in.
But it's still going to cost me $150 or so and I can aluminium for like $20
Maybe of Redline Fibreglass sponsored my build that I haven't even uploaded 1 video if yet and don't even know it anyone is going to watch it! Lol.
Yeah you can't really justify the cost of CF door skins over aluminium. Blokes just do it for show.
I love your videos, but you need a camera upgrade badly my friend
No I don't. This is a repeat audio re-mix upload of a 2015 video, forced on me by the Google music police. My cameras are all 4k now.😉