Did you like my video above? Are you still on the fence and need help so you don't have a leak that will cost THOUSANDS to repair? I can call you on the phone right now to help you solder. Go here: shop.askthebuilder.com/products/15-Minute-Phone-Conversation-with-Tim.html
No matter how many times I read this kind of stuff in a book nothing beats watching a video like this - I've got to solder a copper pipe stuck ten feet up an external wall - this vid has real value. Many thanks.
Hey Tim, I did it! The notes were very helpful, especially the parts I wouldn't have thought of: mixing old flux, using it sparingly, and dressing up the pipe afterwards so it won't corrode later. I was not looking forward to it because of a few bad leaky results in the past. These solderings were perfect. Thanks again... really appreciate it.
Thanks smirnus. I was wondering when the Cavalry would arrive. The only reason I allowed BHtech's comment was the small saving grace about his thought concerning aggressive water. There are places where water is aggressive and it can corrode copper pipe. I have a column or two about this at my website.
For solder to flow and bond permanently to both the pipe and fitting, both pieces of metal need to be above a certain temperature. The method I showed is just one way to get them to this temperature as fast as possible. No doubt your method will work as well. Thanks for sharing.
It sounds like you might be describing a flare or compression fitting. Those have been around for years. They all have their place in plumbing installations. Flare fittings are superb for water-service connections at meters, and underground stop valves. Compression fittings are great where you connect fixtures to water lines. I'm always open to new technology.
Thanks a ton for your comment! I would sure appreciate it if you would show all of us here on UA-cam how to do it. When you decide to load videos sharing your plumbing knowledge, I will subscribe to your channel. Please let me know when your soldering video is done.
Well, I didn't go that route. I was completely self-taught using old technology: book, manuals, and visits to job sites after the workers had left. Today with the Internet the accumulated knowledge is so much easier to access. Have no fear, you will still have work. I tell people in MANY of my videos and columns that things are hard. But some things are easy. You should start making your own videos to share what you know. Help instead of hinder.
If you want to see all my latest step-by-step videos, you need to go to the shopping cart at my AsktheBuilder website, the dot com one. You'll see the cart icon at the top of the page. Once there, look on the left at the DIY Video Guides. Hundreds of new detailed videos are there waiting for you! I'm taping new videos all the time. In fact, I'm about to tape an entire series on How To Install a New Front Door. There will be 12 videos in that series.
Great video Tim. One point I would add is that solder will flow towards the heat. Often people starting out, have gobbs of solder on the joint because they don't realize this. By placeing a bit of heat on the elbow, the solder will suck into the joint and give even the beginner a neat result.
Thanks! I did show in the video that the solder was lead-free. Did you miss that close-up shot? The solder I use is plumbing solder, not electrical solder. Electrical solder is much thinner in diameter.
Good video, and he did it right! I just wrote a piece on WikiHow on this subject, but the video is worth a million words. Two small comments. 1. I like to freeze the joint with a spray of water from an old plastic pump spray bottle after wiping with a clean, dry cotton rag. This solidifies the solder preventing the joint from sliding and possibly creating a leak. 2. This is COPPER TUBING, NOT 'pipe'. There is BRASS PIPE, which is threaded in ANSI sizes.
Not a bad tip. It works some of the time, but not always. Another way, but more difficult, is to insert - if possible - into the line a one-quarter-inch-diameter soft copper pipe attached to a wet-dry vacuum. You make the small pipe go past where you're soldering and you suction the water so it can't get to where you are soldering. Highly effective when working with copper that is protruding above a slab.
They are both good products. There's not enough space here to answer your questions fully. PEX piping can be installed much faster than copper. There are no hidden joints with PEX - only one at the manifold and one at the fixture. Copper can have many joints that you can't see. PEX is quieter when the water flows.
Here is a tip: if you are soldering a 1/2 in pipe, use a 1/2 in length of solder. For 3/4 inch, use a 3/4 inch length of solder. I usually bend the solder to a right angle with pliers so I know when I have used enough.
Very informative. It's Christmas Eve so not much chance of getting proffesional help in fixing a leaky joint in the central heating system. Having watched this video a couple of times I now have a little more confidence in being able to fix it myself. Thanks for posting !
Well, are you going to keep us all in suspense? You have a channel, how about using it to tape these video ideas and then load them as video responses to this one! We anxiously await them!
It may be. Anything that saves time and money is a good thing, so long as the integrity of the system is not cheapened. I have a similar connection on the main water-service line entering my existing home. I ring with sharp teeth is biting into the plastic 1-inch service line. It's been in place 22 years and has never leaked. The connectors you talk about work best when there is never any tension on the joints. Watch out for lumber shrinkage or subsoil movement.
Well, I have my macbook pro set up in my future bathroom. I'd like to be watching this while I do it because I've never done this before. Thanks for the video!
It doesn't matter if you agree with me or not. All that matters is if the joint doesn't leak and there's minimal flux residue inside the piping. Go to the Copper Development Association's web site to discover what else you might not know about soldering.
Thanks Paul! It is nice to get a compliment from time to time. Tell me, are the materials you use the same in the UK? What about your drain lines - plastic or cast iron?
Crimson Tide! Be sure the pipe and fitting are shiny clean. Add small amount of flux. Heat for 20 seconds before applying solder. Pipe needs to be hot enough to melt solder on its own without the torch in place.
It does. It just makes it so the solder flows up a little slower than if there were no gravity. But if there were no gravity, we'd be in a heap of trouble.
You missed the point. Capillary attraction pulls the solder up into the fitting when soldering vertically. What I said is that gravity makes this happen slower than if there was no gravity. But if there was no gravity, we'd all go flying off into space along with the torches, tools and laptops.
Read all my past columns at my website about Soldering Copper. That's the best thing you can do. I explain there all the things you can do to drain the lines.
Thanks for your polite comment. But what you say is not true. It's perfectly legal in just about every state in the USA for a homeowner to do his own work as long as it passes inspection. If it passes, who cares who did the work. I'm a licensed master plumber, and have been one for over 25 years. I encourage people to do their own work so they can be less reliant on others.
Jameskap, Many of us UA-camrs call those people jealous, faceless haters. I personally feel much of the reason is the people feel threatened. They may be out there telling consumers this or that and then comes along some videos like mine or others that casts the hater in a bad light. Most of those people have no identity, so I feel most people like you realize their comments have little, if any, value.
Awsome videos. At our place we have copper plumbing (old school :P). It's been years since we've been able to work on it, and, it's hard to get to the pipes. I've recently been doing some plumbing, and, I'm thinking about replacing the copper with just plastic pipes. What worries me is if copper is more durable than plastic. Our pipes freeze a lot. I worked with my brother one time and he did some plumbing but he didn't have to prime or glue. He just joined them and that was it. thx 4 vid.
If it's the product I saw at the Builders Show about five years ago, I was amazed. My only concern is how long it lasts. We have years of testing to show that solder holds. What about this great epoxy?
Thanks Tim, I was nervous about this, but now I'm ready! Have done lots of plumbing before, but always avoided copper. Looks easy. Acetelayne torch is a great tip!
@Bushougoma I hate to say it, but you're wrong. The flux keeps the copper from oxidizing as the heat rises. Capillary attraction - you studied this in high school chemistry - is what pulls the solder into the joint - even upside down.
Believe it or not, the solder *will* flow up. It is drawn by capillary attraction. I have soldered hundreds of joints like this in my career as a licensed master plumber.
agreed......i have not given up, but after two weeks of fails im really frustrated. but if i still have issues, then i have high hopes for the new fittings with the solder built in. and btw......im an alabama fan, i know all about winning :P
I prefer to move the torch and flame around touching both the fitting and the pipe. You need both to be above the melting point of the solder. I have seen that glue but not used it. Something inside of me says I would have to build a small network of pipe outdoors and test it for months before I would ever use it indoors while asleep or away. It just seems unnatural that it would work. Not saying it doesn't, just that I have to be convinced.
Practice on a scrap piece of tubing. Do a few joints to see how easy it really is. Once you have it down, then do a real repair. Be sure the copper is very clean. Don't touch the cleaned copper with your hands as your skin oil will contaminate it.
I think brazing would be more appropiate for higher pressure copper fitting like for refrigerants (air conditioners) but solder is fine for most other copper connections.
yea the tide :) that was likely my problem.....i was touching the solder to the pipe and taking the torch to it. ill give it a shot next time. im considering flex-on piping though, will allow me to drain and lift my water heater whe i do flooring work.....as opposed to being stationary due to copper pipes.
I thought most AC and refrigeration lines are brazed not soldered. And you flow nitrogen through the lines as you braze. Isn't that the methodology? I'm not an HVAC or refrigeration expert by any means.
Thanks for the really useful video Tim. Qucikc question, do you know how much pressure that joint will hold ? I am looking to build a new launcher for our water rocket using some copper pipe. I usually test our piping to 150psi
I'm having no trouble soldering, but a heck of a time trying to take apart soldered joints. The same solder that melted into the fitting doesn't seem to want to melt out. What do you think it going on?
I have a small piece of metal that had a piece break off of it. It's generally a tube shape, and seems to be weak, as it broke through stress. I was hoping i could solder the piece that broke off the metal tube back onto it- the piece looks like a little washer that was on the bottom of it. I was wondering if I needed to know any special things when trying to solder something other than copper, and if i needed a special iron or kind of solder?
I'm a 1st year HVAC student & just want to say that Hard soldering (aka Brazing) is not easy! We used both air/acet. & oxy/acet. & it's hard to know exactly when the pipe got hot enough (over 1,000 F) to let the hard solder melt into the joint. Of course you'd get better w/practice but my 1st joints sure were ugly :(
I have to tell you that in my 35 years in the business, I've never known one homeowner that broke out a set of gauges and worked on his AC unit, much less replace one. If you're an AC pro, I applaud you. It's very tough work, and mentally challenging.
Thanks for your comment. I went to your channel and there is nothing there. That tells us that maybe your comment shouldn't carry much weight. Why don't you tape your own video showing how you think it should be done?
My joint that I am soldering is upside dowm. Will the solder pull up into the fitting? Also the fitting is heavyer/thicker then the copper pipe. Will this still work?
Easiest thing in the world indeed. Many people try to hold the solder in the flame near the pipe but that's just wrong. Also, if you don't have the stuff to sand the end and the the paste you can do without..Just make sure the pipe is grease free. However, this doesn't mean it's not best to use the paste.
Tim, I just found this video ,thanks! So what would you recommend me to do as far as practicing soldering? what pipes and fittings? Also hoe do you solder the bottom side facing the floor of the pipe in the video? thanks again. best,Jeff
@mommyofamiracle0908 Oh, that's an easy one. You're not doing it right. Two likely causes: 1. The copper is not clean 2. You're not getting the pipe and fitting hot enough so the solder flows into the joint. DON'T put the solder on the joint while the torch is there. Watch the video again several times.
i am using copper pipe for a sculpture. the pipes wont be "fitted" into each other, instead attached flush, or perpendicular or at acute angles to each other....is it still possible to solder? or will the joints need welding....thanks!
this looks simple, I still don't know if I will try it... anyway I have a frozen pipe and now I need to know how do I cut the pipe that broke and do I need to replace the whole pipe? :/ help
Thanks for your comment. I went to your channel and there is nothing there. What I mean is no identity and no videos. So I am not yet convinced you are who you say you are. The worst thing I took away from your comment is that you have no intention of sharing. You seem to be in a scarcity mindset to *protect* your job. If the union way is the right way, then start taping videos and show the rest of us why. Until such time, we will be non-believers.
@rusovich1999 Clean the copper and get it cherry red hot. Apply the silver solder. After you accomplish this, I ask that you consider buying a book my Aunt Clara authored: Professor Phonics Gives Sound Advice
Sigh.... I did use the reaming tool on another piece of pipe, but that step of the process got left it the editing suite. The post-production person didn't think it was a necessary step to show. If I upload a revised video, then all of these comments are lost and the counter goes back to zero. Heavy sigh......
Did you like my video above? Are you still on the fence and need help so you don't have a leak that will cost THOUSANDS to repair? I can call you on the phone right now to help you solder. Go here: shop.askthebuilder.com/products/15-Minute-Phone-Conversation-with-Tim.html
Thanks! Great comment. I'd love to come over there and see the different methods to do many things.
No matter how many times I read this kind of stuff in a book nothing beats watching a video like this - I've got to solder a copper pipe stuck ten feet up an external wall - this vid has real value. Many thanks.
Hey Tim, I did it! The notes were very helpful, especially the parts I wouldn't have thought of: mixing old flux, using it sparingly, and dressing up the pipe afterwards so it won't corrode later. I was not looking forward to it because of a few bad leaky results in the past. These solderings were perfect. Thanks again... really appreciate it.
Thanks smirnus. I was wondering when the Cavalry would arrive. The only reason I allowed BHtech's comment was the small saving grace about his thought concerning aggressive water. There are places where water is aggressive and it can corrode copper pipe. I have a column or two about this at my website.
For solder to flow and bond permanently to both the pipe and fitting, both pieces of metal need to be above a certain temperature. The method I showed is just one way to get them to this temperature as fast as possible. No doubt your method will work as well. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Stay safe and away from all those fires down under.
It sounds like you might be describing a flare or compression fitting. Those have been around for years. They all have their place in plumbing installations. Flare fittings are superb for water-service connections at meters, and underground stop valves. Compression fittings are great where you connect fixtures to water lines. I'm always open to new technology.
Would love to see that video. Send it as a Video Response and I'll approve it.
Thanks Tim, I've taken careful notes and now I'm off to solder my hot water tank lines. Great instruction.
Thanks a ton for your comment! I would sure appreciate it if you would show all of us here on UA-cam how to do it. When you decide to load videos sharing your plumbing knowledge, I will subscribe to your channel. Please let me know when your soldering video is done.
Well, I didn't go that route. I was completely self-taught using old technology: book, manuals, and visits to job sites after the workers had left. Today with the Internet the accumulated knowledge is so much easier to access. Have no fear, you will still have work. I tell people in MANY of my videos and columns that things are hard. But some things are easy. You should start making your own videos to share what you know. Help instead of hinder.
If you want to see all my latest step-by-step videos, you need to go to the shopping cart at my AsktheBuilder website, the dot com one. You'll see the cart icon at the top of the page. Once there, look on the left at the DIY Video Guides. Hundreds of new detailed videos are there waiting for you! I'm taping new videos all the time. In fact, I'm about to tape an entire series on How To Install a New Front Door. There will be 12 videos in that series.
Great video Tim. One point I would add is that solder will flow towards the heat. Often people starting out, have gobbs of solder on the joint because they don't realize this. By placeing a bit of heat on the elbow, the solder will suck into the joint and give even the beginner a neat result.
Thanks! I did show in the video that the solder was lead-free. Did you miss that close-up shot? The solder I use is plumbing solder, not electrical solder. Electrical solder is much thinner in diameter.
Spot on, Mate. It's been a few years since the last time I did plumbing and I wanted to make sure. Your video was the perfect refresher.
Commander, you're due back on the planet Earth.
Good video, and he did it right! I just wrote a piece on WikiHow on this subject, but the video is worth a million words.
Two small comments.
1. I like to freeze the joint with a spray of water from an old plastic pump spray bottle after wiping with a clean, dry cotton rag. This solidifies the solder preventing the joint from sliding and possibly creating a leak.
2. This is COPPER TUBING, NOT 'pipe'. There is BRASS PIPE, which is threaded in ANSI sizes.
Very informative. Im taking classes in HVAC and have been practicing soldering at home so i do better in school. This is helpful.
Not a bad tip. It works some of the time, but not always. Another way, but more difficult, is to insert - if possible - into the line a one-quarter-inch-diameter soft copper pipe attached to a wet-dry vacuum. You make the small pipe go past where you're soldering and you suction the water so it can't get to where you are soldering. Highly effective when working with copper that is protruding above a slab.
They are both good products. There's not enough space here to answer your questions fully. PEX piping can be installed much faster than copper. There are no hidden joints with PEX - only one at the manifold and one at the fixture. Copper can have many joints that you can't see. PEX is quieter when the water flows.
Here is a tip: if you are soldering a 1/2 in pipe, use a 1/2 in length of solder. For 3/4 inch, use a 3/4 inch length of solder. I usually bend the solder to a right angle with pliers so I know when I have used enough.
By putting a heat shield between the flame and the wood. The shield can be a simple piece of sheet metal.
That is absolutely correct.
Moskoni77,
Thanks, you beat me to the punch. You are correct.
Very informative. It's Christmas Eve so not much chance of getting proffesional help in fixing a leaky joint in the central heating system. Having watched this video a couple of times I now have a little more confidence in being able to fix it myself. Thanks for posting !
Well, are you going to keep us all in suspense? You have a channel, how about using it to tape these video ideas and then load them as video responses to this one! We anxiously await them!
It may be. Anything that saves time and money is a good thing, so long as the integrity of the system is not cheapened. I have a similar connection on the main water-service line entering my existing home. I ring with sharp teeth is biting into the plastic 1-inch service line. It's been in place 22 years and has never leaked. The connectors you talk about work best when there is never any tension on the joints. Watch out for lumber shrinkage or subsoil movement.
Well, I have my macbook pro set up in my future bathroom. I'd like to be watching this while I do it because I've never done this before. Thanks for the video!
SODER?
I'm a Plumber in Australia, love ya channel mate. Wow you guys sure do things different.
It doesn't matter if you agree with me or not. All that matters is if the joint doesn't leak and there's minimal flux residue inside the piping. Go to the Copper Development Association's web site to discover what else you might not know about soldering.
Thanks Paul! It is nice to get a compliment from time to time. Tell me, are the materials you use the same in the UK? What about your drain lines - plastic or cast iron?
Crimson Tide! Be sure the pipe and fitting are shiny clean. Add small amount of flux. Heat for 20 seconds before applying solder. Pipe needs to be hot enough to melt solder on its own without the torch in place.
Capillary attraction pulls the solder around the entire joint.
It does. It just makes it so the solder flows up a little slower than if there were no gravity. But if there were no gravity, we'd be in a heap of trouble.
The flux used in circuit boards is included as part of the solder. Leave no excess solder.
You can solder them. You need lots of surface area of the copper TOUCHING to gain strength.
Yes it will.
That is why the 90 bend is pointing up to the sky.
You missed the point. Capillary attraction pulls the solder up into the fitting when soldering vertically. What I said is that gravity makes this happen slower than if there was no gravity. But if there was no gravity, we'd all go flying off into space along with the torches, tools and laptops.
@paolobenne Yes, you can solder upside down. Do it.
Read all my past columns at my website about Soldering Copper. That's the best thing you can do. I explain there all the things you can do to drain the lines.
Thanks for your polite comment. But what you say is not true. It's perfectly legal in just about every state in the USA for a homeowner to do his own work as long as it passes inspection. If it passes, who cares who did the work. I'm a licensed master plumber, and have been one for over 25 years. I encourage people to do their own work so they can be less reliant on others.
Solder should hold. But to be safe, braze the joints with silver solder.
Jameskap,
Many of us UA-camrs call those people jealous, faceless haters. I personally feel much of the reason is the people feel threatened. They may be out there telling consumers this or that and then comes along some videos like mine or others that casts the hater in a bad light. Most of those people have no identity, so I feel most people like you realize their comments have little, if any, value.
Awsome videos. At our place we have copper plumbing (old school :P). It's been years since we've been able to work on it, and, it's hard to get to the pipes. I've recently been doing some plumbing, and, I'm thinking about replacing the copper with just plastic pipes. What worries me is if copper is more durable than plastic. Our pipes freeze a lot. I worked with my brother one time and he did some plumbing but he didn't have to prime or glue. He just joined them and that was it. thx 4 vid.
If it's the product I saw at the Builders Show about five years ago, I was amazed. My only concern is how long it lasts. We have years of testing to show that solder holds. What about this great epoxy?
Solder absolutely flows up if the fit between the pipe and fitting is snug.
This works for compressed air as well.
Be sure to come back and tell us your success story!
@ShaunJ4Y1873 Thanks! I've always wanted to visit your great country.
just the "brush up" i needed, thanks!
julian
Very helpful and clearly understood. Many thanks.
Thanks Tim, I was nervous about this, but now I'm ready! Have done lots of plumbing before, but always avoided copper. Looks easy. Acetelayne torch is a great tip!
I agree. That's what's happening in this video.
Jeff, just do it..... Practice with any sizes 1/2 or 3/4. Solder flows up!
i do this daily as my job, but i use a twin-flame torchhead rather than the single shown in the video. speeds things along quite nicely
@Bushougoma I hate to say it, but you're wrong. The flux keeps the copper from oxidizing as the heat rises. Capillary attraction - you studied this in high school chemistry - is what pulls the solder into the joint - even upside down.
Very nice work and easy to learn from...
@MrTweedledee2 Heat the joint till you see the solder melt. Pull it apart.
As long as you are sure the inside of the fitting gets completely coated.......
cool i'm going to try it thanks for posting the video
Believe it or not, the solder *will* flow up. It is drawn by capillary attraction. I have soldered hundreds of joints like this in my career as a licensed master plumber.
Very helpful. Thanks.
agreed......i have not given up, but after two weeks of fails im really frustrated. but if i still have issues, then i have high hopes for the new fittings with the solder built in. and btw......im an alabama fan, i know all about winning :P
I prefer to move the torch and flame around touching both the fitting and the pipe. You need both to be above the melting point of the solder. I have seen that glue but not used it. Something inside of me says I would have to build a small network of pipe outdoors and test it for months before I would ever use it indoors while asleep or away. It just seems unnatural that it would work. Not saying it doesn't, just that I have to be convinced.
I think those that live in Scotland would vigorously debate what you say.
Practice on a scrap piece of tubing. Do a few joints to see how easy it really is. Once you have it down, then do a real repair. Be sure the copper is very clean. Don't touch the cleaned copper with your hands as your skin oil will contaminate it.
You can solder different metals. I offer a phone consult service at my AsktheBuilder website.
I think brazing would be more appropiate for higher pressure copper fitting like for refrigerants (air conditioners) but solder is fine for most other copper connections.
yea the tide :) that was likely my problem.....i was touching the solder to the pipe and taking the torch to it. ill give it a shot next time. im considering flex-on piping though, will allow me to drain and lift my water heater whe i do flooring work.....as opposed to being stationary due to copper pipes.
great video, straight to the point. nice work! What do you make of the "cold solder" adhesives like just for copper - any good?
Did you Google that term? Did you not see all the ads in the right column????? thick copper pipe 1 cm copper pipe etc.
I thought most AC and refrigeration lines are brazed not soldered. And you flow nitrogen through the lines as you braze. Isn't that the methodology? I'm not an HVAC or refrigeration expert by any means.
Thanks for the really useful video Tim. Qucikc question, do you know how much pressure that joint will hold ? I am looking to build a new launcher for our water rocket using some copper pipe. I usually test our piping to 150psi
wow thanks for that now i can go repair it
Well here in Australia its the complete opposite so to you Ausies out their be careful !!
I'm having no trouble soldering, but a heck of a time trying to take apart soldered joints. The same solder that melted into the fitting doesn't seem to want to melt out. What do you think it going on?
I have a small piece of metal that had a piece break off of it. It's generally a tube shape, and seems to be weak, as it broke through stress. I was hoping i could solder the piece that broke off the metal tube back onto it- the piece looks like a little washer that was on the bottom of it. I was wondering if I needed to know any special things when trying to solder something other than copper, and if i needed a special iron or kind of solder?
I'm a 1st year HVAC student & just want to say that Hard soldering (aka Brazing) is not easy! We used both air/acet. & oxy/acet. & it's hard to know exactly when the pipe got hot enough (over 1,000 F) to let the hard solder melt into the joint. Of course you'd get better w/practice but my 1st joints sure were ugly :(
It may have to be welded or brazed.
I have to tell you that in my 35 years in the business, I've never known one homeowner that broke out a set of gauges and worked on his AC unit, much less replace one. If you're an AC pro, I applaud you. It's very tough work, and mentally challenging.
Thanks for your comment. I went to your channel and there is nothing there. That tells us that maybe your comment shouldn't carry much weight. Why don't you tape your own video showing how you think it should be done?
My joint that I am soldering is upside dowm. Will the solder pull up into the fitting? Also the fitting is heavyer/thicker then the copper pipe. Will this still work?
Easiest thing in the world indeed. Many people try to hold the solder in the flame near the pipe but that's just wrong.
Also, if you don't have the stuff to sand the end and the the paste you can do without..Just make sure the pipe is grease free. However, this doesn't mean it's not best to use the paste.
Tim, I just found this video ,thanks! So what would you recommend me to do as far as practicing soldering? what pipes and fittings? Also hoe do you solder the bottom side facing the floor of the pipe in the video? thanks again. best,Jeff
How do you keep from burning floorboards wood framing on existing plumbing jobs.
I think you skipped a step. You need to remove the oxidized flux making sure the copper is bright and shiny. Then you can continue as you describe.
Very new to this. I was told that using steel wool to scour the ends can leave traces of steel which would eventually corrode the pipe. Is that true?
The answer is No..... Read my columns at my website about soldering. There are many you should read.
what about a copper pipe thats in the wall in a verticle position and u want to solder it up? wont the solder fall down under gravity?
@mommyofamiracle0908 Oh, that's an easy one. You're not doing it right. Two likely causes: 1. The copper is not clean 2. You're not getting the pipe and fitting hot enough so the solder flows into the joint. DON'T put the solder on the joint while the torch is there. Watch the video again several times.
i am using copper pipe for a sculpture. the pipes wont be "fitted" into each other, instead attached flush, or perpendicular or at acute angles to each other....is it still possible to solder? or will the joints need welding....thanks!
ok thank you :)
this looks simple, I still don't know if I will try it... anyway I have a frozen pipe and now I need to know how do I cut the pipe that broke and do I need to replace the whole pipe? :/ help
hello good tuto i need help to soldering whit silver a cooper pipes???
Thanks for your comment. I went to your channel and there is nothing there. What I mean is no identity and no videos. So I am not yet convinced you are who you say you are. The worst thing I took away from your comment is that you have no intention of sharing. You seem to be in a scarcity mindset to *protect* your job. If the union way is the right way, then start taping videos and show the rest of us why. Until such time, we will be non-believers.
Would this work with copper pipe to metel pipe? if not is there i way i can do this
@rusovich1999 Clean the copper and get it cherry red hot. Apply the silver solder. After you accomplish this, I ask that you consider buying a book my Aunt Clara authored: Professor Phonics Gives Sound Advice
Sigh.... I did use the reaming tool on another piece of pipe, but that step of the process got left it the editing suite. The post-production person didn't think it was a necessary step to show. If I upload a revised video, then all of these comments are lost and the counter goes back to zero. Heavy sigh......