Installed my bulbs today. No left over fastners or broken plastic tabs. Video success! Cyclops changed they product. No rivets or resistors needed. Thanks Mario
@@2WR perfectly! I'm amazed at the amount of light from the low beam alone. Best money spent on the bike. LEDS are far better than HIDs on my old bike.
Thanks for the how-to. I did this upgrade today. Cyclops kit now includes adhesive velcro patches. No drilling required. And if care is taken, there is no need to remove crash bars during side panel removal.
Helpful and informative as usual. One thing, for the direction in which you installed the rivets (head of the rivet against the resistor plate) the washer for those rivets should go between the plastic and the bulb of the rivet, not under the head of the rivet. The plastic is often too soft to prevent the bulb from enlarging the hole and pulling thru the plastic when you pull the rivet with the tool.
I just bought my 2016 SA. I've been watching your videos for quite some time now. They have to be one of the best guides on how to do work on your KTM, and awfully underrated. You deserve so many more views on your videos. Always detailed but not boring to the point of making us skipping forward. Well done!!!
So that everyone knows, you don’t have to go through all that to remove your headlight, that’s just a KTM dealer money maker to add hours. On the silver panel that the blinker (Indicator) is attached to, remove those two bolts just like the video, pull up on the front of the panel gently and you’ll see the hole and you can remove the bottom headlight bolt, the upper headlight bolt is accessible without removing anything. I’ve done it to wire my GPS and my cyclops LED years ago. This video is by no means wrong, he installed the headlight just like the book told him, but he wasted a lot of time and effort.
Great video. It helps alot. I do not understand why the manufacturers or designers made this so complicated. It's a light bulb, it would be changed all the time. ¡Put two screws, open the acrilic, change the bulb and put it again! Insane...
Be sure to check out my "wiring explained video." It shows you can get to it without removing everything but you'll still want to know/understand were all the little plastic clips are so you don't break anything.
I think you were getting a CL light code was because the cornering lights were not installed when you fired it up at first. Looks like a great mod, I'll be adding it to the list! Thanks!
I don’t understand why the crash bars were removed. I can completely remove my headlight inside of 8 minutes simply by removing the tank top cover and then removing the two tank top side panels to get access to the headlight fasteners. The tank side panels containing the led Lights can also easily be removed without removing the crash bars. Is there a reason why you did it this way? I didn’t do anywhere near this amount of work when I installed these, plus I installed a led light bar between the stanchions at the same time that also needed to be wired into the harness in the headlight. I’m just curious. It seems like a lot of extra work, but maybe I cut corners.
I've explained this numerous times in the comments section (which I don't expect you to read all of) and even in the video. For the purposes of working on it the first time, I followed the KTM Service Manual step-by step. As I've stated in a subsequent video, you can get to it much easier with removing far less but you need to be familiar with how the plastic tabs and other fasteners work so you don't damage them. I would no longer (and do no longer) remove everything to access the headlight but it was a good learning experience for me (and anyone) that watched the whole way through as I now have a better understanding of how the bike is assembled.
Thanks for the video, I just installed these lights. I always found the stock lights, at least the low beam, quite lacking and I was always over driving them whatever the speed. I started driving around with my high beams on all the time. They weren't even bright enough to cause on coming cars to flash me. Haven't ridden in the dark yet, but I can already tell they are much brighter.
I'm floored. This'd be about $1500 labor at a dealer. Glad I have a Super Duke 1290 ... should be a whole lot easier. Access is remove 2 screws, headlight shell pivots down giving full access.
+Michael Nelson I've made an updated video where I show it's possible NOT to remove everything as the service manual says however you still have to remove a ton of screws and if you don't know how the plastic clips together you'll likely break something.
Can't find that updated video on your channel. Can you post the link please? Have the Cyclops LED kit and am keen to install in the most efficient way possible!
Brian. The video I've linked doesn't show you step by step but does show you how it'll look. You can leave the crash bars in place. All the same body panel screws I remove in this video will still need to be removed. Once removed you should have enough "play" in the plastics to get the headlight removed. You can also leave the cornering lights and turn signals hooked up. ua-cam.com/video/s0Van8rnV1c/v-deo.html
Thanks a ton! I installed the Cylops LED lights on my 1290 without any trouble using your video above and the modified/simplified steps you pointed me to. Love the lights!
Just installed the Cyclops kit and a new Garmin 595LM on my 2015 1290 SA last night. Watched your video first and glad I did because the instructions that come with the kit are pretty limited. I swear though, every time I remove the side panels, tank cover, etc., I always end up with a couple extra screws when I put it back together. I even took everything apart again to try and figure out what I missed and couldn't find where I missed anything. I made sure I got the hidden ones, by the radiator and inside the steering head area. The only logical conclusion is the damn things multiply like rabbits when removed. :)
Having got my 1290 on the weekend, I'm seriously considering getting this kit. Mine already has every other light as LED, so to me it just makes sense. Gonna keep watching your videos though to see how it looks at night. Cheers for the awesome content, keep it up :D
Thanks Dan! It's been raining non-stop here the last few days so I hope to be able to get some night time riding footage shot soon. Congrats on the new bike, too!
I'm thinking the code was just because the corner lights were disconnected. I'll bet if you went through the menus you'd also see a code for the unplugged seats. I ran into the same thing the first time I worked on mine and started it with the seats off. As soon as I hooked everything back up the code cleared. Nice lighting upgrade.
C Light is short for Cornering Light. They are not plugged in. It will throw an error until they are plugged back in. Error no more. The stock headlight is mediocre. My wife's Versys 1000 has vastly better headlight. And if I'm not mistaken they use the same lamps. I'm looking forward to LEDing my SA! BTW it is possible to get the headlight assy off without removing all that other stuff. It's a headlight. It has to be field serviceable. Anyway I've had mine off a couple times. You get the windscreen out of the way and the rest is pretty easy to sneak around. cheers
Thanks mate the best and clearest video I've seen. No BS. Cheers Steve NSW Australia.I am hoping the connector for the heated hand grips is behind the light.I have a 2019 S any Ideas ?
LOL...definitely had a lot of parts and fasteners all over the place just to get to the damn bulbs. I'm pleased with the results though. Thanks for watching and commenting Mark!
Good video, i'm picking up my new 1290 tomorrow, one of the first things i was going to do was swap out the headlights for leds but now i might wait a while lol what a nightmare!
Love it bro. I cheated though... I removed the windscreen, side fairing bolts and snuck in there with my wrench and took the bolts out, slid the headlight assembly forward and did it that way.
Now that I know where all the plastic fasteners and clips are I'd do it that way next go round. While a pain this way, I now know how to take the bike apart and put it back together again. :)
Hi! Micke from nort of Sweden... Hm, just wondering...are the washers not supposed to be placed where the popnut comes throug the plastic? (ie the other side)
You're welcome man! As I suspected, Rob in the comments has confirmed you can get to them without removing the crash bars but still a lot to disassemble either way.
By adjust yellow part to left or right can be "legal" driving in left hand drive or right hand drive? (Uk vs usa) as i.ll want to import from uk to europe and don.t want to buy a new headlight just for beam reflection. Tia
Another excellent install Mario , well put together and informative . Although alot of work it would seem there is a noticeable difference in depth of field with the Cyclops bulbs . Was wondering if you have tested there effectiveness at night yet ? I reckon I could tackle the job myself . Although it is a superb bike the only areas of weakness I feel are the headlight and horn . With regard to the horn I was wondering if you were considering a more substantial alternative such as the denali soundbomb replacement ?
Thanks Lawrence. I can tell you that Cyclops bulbs are a LOT brighter and allow you to see much further away. Due to the non-stop rain lately, I haven't had a chance to actually ride at night but plan to soon and try to get it filmed to share. I haven't looked into any upgrade for the horn yet. I really should do something with the weak horn on my Silverado first because the KTMs horn is actually louder. The horn should be MUCH easier to replace should I decide to do so as you can get to it rather easily. My next "upgrade" will be removing the charcoal canister from under the passenger seat. I've been told it'll take a couple weeks to get the necessary parts.
2 Wheeled Rider LUMENS!!!! ALL THE LUMENS!!!! 👍👍👍 My resistors were from superbrightleds, and look identical, but without the backing plates. There's no room for them to rattle around, jammed in there with all that wiring. ;)
Superb video. One thing is not clear to me. The 1290SA has a 'intelligent' headlight. How do you make it work continuously? Mine only works in dark circumstances. Keep posting these manuals for the SA!
hmmm...my light is on at all times that it's running. If you only turn on the switch and not the engine it only lights up for a few seconds. What market are you in?
I think it's different because of legal issues in europe compared with America. I can only force my headlight to work all the time if i disable the day running light (Led).
I put some $40 LED bulbs with $15 resistors on my 1190R. It took me about 20min... crash bars? side panels? seat removal? WTF???? I just loosened the side panel to get the turn signal panels off, then popped off the headlight assy. I also didn't pop rivet in the resistors...LOL! Why??? Never a single error on mine.
I'm sure the bulbs you have linked will work fine but they are only 6,000lm v the 8,000lm kit from Cyclops. As for removing the crash bars & side panels, that's what the KTM service manual called for. Can you get by with removing less? Sure. But removing everything gave me (and those that watch the video) a better understanding of how the bike is assembled should I need to take it apart for something else. I'm not sure the size of your resistors but I don't want mine rattling around in the headlight casing. Looking back it was likely the unplugged cornering lights causing the code.
amazing the work it takes to get to lights on some bikes. mine is a little easier than yours but a pain to take whole fairing off!! I have to install new tail lighting, want to come and do it for me? I'll let you film it!! ✌
Had the cyclops LED kit installed last week by my dealer; however, the low beam lamp warning is hanging around a bit too long - anyone suffered this & know how to remedy it?
Hi There, I know this was recorded in 2017 but was wondering if you can help. I have a 2015 KTM 1050 Adventure and want to install led indicators, do I need to install only resistors in-line or do I need to have a relay installed? Is there a relay that need to be replaced? Thanks in advance
Awesome and thank you for doing this video. Definitely a lot help for me to do the install now and as well save me some cash. Hopefully I'll have some time to do my lights this week. Again thanks and if you're ever in Texas/Colorado area let me know. First rounds on me. Cheers!
No problem man! Hit me up if you have any issues along the way. As for TX/CO I fly to both areas multiple times a year and will likely be through CO on the bike later this year so I'll keep you posted.
Hey man just wanted to say awesome video, lots of detail and a brilliant walkthrough. Also wanted to ask how the light has been from then to now? Any issues? All the best
Looks Good ....But....Man thats a lot to go through just to change bulbs.. I hated working on the FJR because of all the plastics you had to take off that thing.... :)
Ah, now I understand. I didn’t follow the manual, I used my version of common sense, which probably is neither common or sensible. I did manage, several times, to remove the headlight inside of 10 minutes though.
So, the U.S. model has bulbs in the indicators! The Euro model (mine is a 2016) has LED indicators.. Why? Cost? Just a little unorthodox that this would vary across continents...
Buen día, mi nombre es Martín, conseguí las mismas luces. Mi intención es colocarlas y copiar tu trabajo. Tuviste algún problema o algún fallo en la moto luego de la instalación? Desde ya muchas gracias!
No. No han arrojado ningún código. El único problema de código fue porque mis luces en las curvas estaban desconectadas cuando encendí el interruptor por primera vez. Más de 3.000 millas más tarde y no un problema.
Have done this on my 2016 SA just recently. Is there a way of easily adjusting the beam angle down a bit without taking everything apart again? It’s a touch on the high side and is blinding cat drivers...!
You only need to remove the bottom triple clamp cover to adjust the beam angle. There is an adjustment screw/knob. Turn it clockwise to raise the beam and counter to lower it.
2 Wheeled Rider - thanks and please keep the videos coming. Have managed to put 15k miles on mine so far and absolutely love it. I see you’ve got the conti trail attacks on it, have you tried any other rubber yet??
Hi, and off video topic you might be able to help with, i have a 2017 KTM 1290 SAT, and i have 2 issues, 1. A coolant leak. 2. The clutch is slipping, the bike has just offer 30k KMs, have you had any of these issues? And if so any pointers?
Haven’t had either of those issues but here are some pointers. 1) Assuming it’s an external coolant leak, you’re just going to have to trace it. Could be a bad hose, loose clamp or cracked radiator. If you can’t find it, check to make sure you don’t have air in the system by warming the bike up with the radiator cap off to get rid of the air bubble. 2) Start by bleeding the hydraulic clutch line. If that doesn’t help you likely have a more serious issue and may need to replace the clutch.
Was the error from the headlight or from the cornering lights being disconnected? I noticed the same error when I did the SAS/canister delete and did a test start before buttoning it backup. I also found out you can also remove all the panels and the tank without removing the crash bars.
I'm pretty sure it was from the cornering light. Didn't occur to me at the time. Yea, another guy commented that you can get the side panels off without removing the crash bars. Now knowing how things come apart, I'd agree that's possible and quicker.
Great video, I will be using it as a guide. A friend of mine has an FJ09 and I'm really impressed how much his LED headlight catches my attention in my mirror, it makes my friends Tiger headlight look like a birthday candle! So for daytime viability and seeing at night it looks like a great upgrade.
Kinda off this topic but do you happen to know where the flasher relay is for the turn signals? I have the Rizoma turn signals with the relay kit so I do not have to run resistors, I have a 16 superduke r
According to the wiring diagram in the service manual, they plug directly into the ECU which I find strange. I'm going to look into it further and let you know.
Is it just me or is there no difference? Only that the stocklight are turn to much downwards? I think they are brighter than the leds? It looks also not the same time of day... 🤣 you can see it in the sky
No. You'll need to remove the windshield and you'll need to pop off the turn signal farings in order to access the screws to allow you to remove the mask.
ua-cam.com/video/s0Van8rnV1c/v-deo.html this video is the closest I have to it. Use it in conjunction with this one and it should get you close. I haven't had to pull the mask off. I can email you a pdf of the service manual if you want. Just email me at 2wheeledriderdotcom@gmail.com
It’s been discussed already but.... 1) following the factory service manual 2) I was doing more work to the bike that required the crash bars to be removed.
Short version.......Disassemble ENTIRE motorcycle, install led headlights, reassemble ENTIRE MOTORCYCLE lmao!!!!! I wonder which one of those bottles were half empty when you were finished......
Nice work! One hint to save some time and effort. Even though the service manual says to, no need to remove the crash bars. The side panels come off and go back on just fine without removing the crash bars. That should speed up the install a bit. Looks like a significant improvement in night riding visibility! Rob @MotoPumps.com
Thanks Rob! I thought that may be the case but for the purposes of being complete decided to follow the manual step-by-step. Definitely a huge improvement over the stock lighting.
See my comments about the method I used. Crash bars don’t need to be removed. Headlight can be removed inside of 10 minutes if you’ve done it a few times.
I still love that you’ve made all these videos because I just ordered these lights! It’s five years later I can do my install with ease.
Installed my bulbs today. No left over fastners or broken plastic tabs. Video success!
Cyclops changed they product. No rivets or resistors needed.
Thanks Mario
Yeah, heard they've updated the kit a bit. How are they working for ya?
@@2WR perfectly! I'm amazed at the amount of light from the low beam alone. Best money spent on the bike. LEDS are far better than HIDs on my old bike.
Thanks for the how-to. I did this upgrade today. Cyclops kit now includes adhesive velcro patches. No drilling required. And if care is taken, there is no need to remove crash bars during side panel removal.
There’s an updated video showing how to access without total disassembly. Just put the Cyclops LED bulbs in my 990 last week. Even bigger improvement.
Helpful and informative as usual. One thing, for the direction in which you installed the rivets (head of the rivet against the resistor plate) the washer for those rivets should go between the plastic and the bulb of the rivet, not under the head of the rivet. The plastic is often too soft to prevent the bulb from enlarging the hole and pulling thru the plastic when you pull the rivet with the tool.
I used the 3M double sided tape instead of the rivets. It's used to mount road signs in hurricane areas after all.
I just bought my 2016 SA. I've been watching your videos for quite some time now.
They have to be one of the best guides on how to do work on your KTM, and awfully underrated. You deserve so many more views on your videos. Always detailed but not boring to the point of making us skipping forward.
Well done!!!
Much appreciated and hope you're enjoying your bike!
So that everyone knows, you don’t have to go through all that to remove your headlight, that’s just a KTM dealer money maker to add hours. On the silver panel that the blinker (Indicator) is attached to, remove those two bolts just like the video, pull up on the front of the panel gently and you’ll see the hole and you can remove the bottom headlight bolt, the upper headlight bolt is accessible without removing anything. I’ve done it to wire my GPS and my cyclops LED years ago. This video is by no means wrong, he installed the headlight just like the book told him, but he wasted a lot of time and effort.
Thanks for posting this. I did not need to take the tank guard tubes off for this install today.
Great video. It helps alot. I do not understand why the manufacturers or designers made this so complicated. It's a light bulb, it would be changed all the time. ¡Put two screws, open the acrilic, change the bulb and put it again! Insane...
Be sure to check out my "wiring explained video." It shows you can get to it without removing everything but you'll still want to know/understand were all the little plastic clips are so you don't break anything.
Thank you!
I think you were getting a CL light code was because the cornering lights were not installed when you fired it up at first. Looks like a great mod, I'll be adding it to the list! Thanks!
You're correct. It was the corning lights not being hooked up. Good luck with the install...it'll prove to be worth it.
I have the Cyclops on my v rod,it's awesome! Can't wait to put um in my 1190r,along with the GPS mount and headlight guard
I don’t understand why the crash bars were removed. I can completely remove my headlight inside of 8 minutes simply by removing the tank top cover and then removing the two tank top side panels to get access to the headlight fasteners.
The tank side panels containing the led Lights can also easily be removed without removing the crash bars.
Is there a reason why you did it this way?
I didn’t do anywhere near this amount of work when I installed these, plus I installed a led light bar between the stanchions at the same time that also needed to be wired into the harness in the headlight.
I’m just curious. It seems like a lot of extra work, but maybe I cut corners.
I've explained this numerous times in the comments section (which I don't expect you to read all of) and even in the video. For the purposes of working on it the first time, I followed the KTM Service Manual step-by step.
As I've stated in a subsequent video, you can get to it much easier with removing far less but you need to be familiar with how the plastic tabs and other fasteners work so you don't damage them.
I would no longer (and do no longer) remove everything to access the headlight but it was a good learning experience for me (and anyone) that watched the whole way through as I now have a better understanding of how the bike is assembled.
and how do you lower light height to avoid annoying highway flashers towards u
Thanks for the video, I just installed these lights. I always found the stock lights, at least the low beam, quite lacking and I was always over driving them whatever the speed. I started driving around with my high beams on all the time. They weren't even bright enough to cause on coming cars to flash me. Haven't ridden in the dark yet, but I can already tell they are much brighter.
Matt, you're going to notice a HUGE difference with the LEDs at night.
Just got a Super Adventure, learned a lot and thanks for the video.
Just installed these and it was a breeze. Thank you Mario for the great video.
These are a great improvement over stock
Another cyclops installed. Thks a lot!!
I'm floored. This'd be about $1500 labor at a dealer. Glad I have a Super Duke 1290 ... should be a whole lot easier. Access is remove 2 screws, headlight shell pivots down giving full access.
+Michael Nelson I've made an updated video where I show it's possible NOT to remove everything as the service manual says however you still have to remove a ton of screws and if you don't know how the plastic clips together you'll likely break something.
Can't find that updated video on your channel. Can you post the link please? Have the Cyclops LED kit and am keen to install in the most efficient way possible!
Brian. The video I've linked doesn't show you step by step but does show you how it'll look. You can leave the crash bars in place. All the same body panel screws I remove in this video will still need to be removed. Once removed you should have enough "play" in the plastics to get the headlight removed. You can also leave the cornering lights and turn signals hooked up. ua-cam.com/video/s0Van8rnV1c/v-deo.html
Thanks a ton! I installed the Cylops LED lights on my 1290 without any trouble using your video above and the modified/simplified steps you pointed me to. Love the lights!
Glad you hear it worked out well for you Brian. Enjoy the new lights!
Just installed the Cyclops kit and a new Garmin 595LM on my 2015 1290 SA last night. Watched your video first and glad I did because the instructions that come with the kit are pretty limited. I swear though, every time I remove the side panels, tank cover, etc., I always end up with a couple extra screws when I put it back together. I even took everything apart again to try and figure out what I missed and couldn't find where I missed anything. I made sure I got the hidden ones, by the radiator and inside the steering head area. The only logical conclusion is the damn things multiply like rabbits when removed. :)
LOL...it happens. As long as it stays together you'll be fine 😀 Glad to hear the videos helped.
Having got my 1290 on the weekend, I'm seriously considering getting this kit. Mine already has every other light as LED, so to me it just makes sense. Gonna keep watching your videos though to see how it looks at night.
Cheers for the awesome content, keep it up :D
Thanks Dan! It's been raining non-stop here the last few days so I hope to be able to get some night time riding footage shot soon. Congrats on the new bike, too!
I'm thinking the code was just because the corner lights were disconnected. I'll bet if you went through the menus you'd also see a code for the unplugged seats. I ran into the same thing the first time I worked on mine and started it with the seats off. As soon as I hooked everything back up the code cleared. Nice lighting upgrade.
I bet you're right. I threw a general code as well but once everything was buttoned up, all of it went away.
C Light is short for Cornering Light. They are not plugged in. It will throw an error until they are plugged back in. Error no more.
The stock headlight is mediocre. My wife's Versys 1000 has vastly better headlight. And if I'm not mistaken they use the same lamps. I'm looking forward to LEDing my SA!
BTW it is possible to get the headlight assy off without removing all that other stuff. It's a headlight. It has to be field serviceable. Anyway I've had mine off a couple times. You get the windscreen out of the way and the rest is pretty easy to sneak around.
cheers
Thanks mate the best and clearest video I've seen. No BS. Cheers Steve NSW Australia.I am hoping the connector for the heated hand grips is behind the light.I have a 2019 S any Ideas ?
New headlight bulbs. Step 1: Disassemble bike, lol. Wow that was intense, but those bulbs are fantastic! Well done!
LOL...definitely had a lot of parts and fasteners all over the place just to get to the damn bulbs. I'm pleased with the results though. Thanks for watching and commenting Mark!
thanks. Videos are to the point and easy to follow. Im looking forward to pulling my KTM 1190 apart now :-)
Excellent install, Mario! Big difference from stock bulbs. Be safe.
Thanks. These LEDs are a LOT brighter.
Good video, i'm picking up my new 1290 tomorrow, one of the first things i was going to do was swap out the headlights for leds but now i might wait a while lol what a nightmare!
It's possible to do it without removing the crash bars but everything else is going to have to come off.
Love it bro. I cheated though... I removed the windscreen, side fairing bolts and snuck in there with my wrench and took the bolts out, slid the headlight assembly forward and did it that way.
Now that I know where all the plastic fasteners and clips are I'd do it that way next go round. While a pain this way, I now know how to take the bike apart and put it back together again. :)
...yep, that’s pretty much how I did it too. Ten minutes and the headlight is off.
I will take my 2016 SA next week, hope to learn more about SA from you, thanks a lot!
Sweet! Congrats on the new bike!
Hi! Micke from nort of Sweden... Hm, just wondering...are the washers not supposed to be placed where the popnut comes throug the plastic? (ie the other side)
Thanks for these videos. You're doing a great job.
Did you do a video on how to replace a burnt-out bulb with a new one? My Low beam needs to be replaced.
There’s no difference in the process.
I'm sure the washer on the rivet needs to go on the plastic side so the rivet does not pull through the plastic.
Mega that Mario👍, very informative & a great outcome for the ball ache work that it involed, a big thanks to you !!.
You're welcome man! As I suspected, Rob in the comments has confirmed you can get to them without removing the crash bars but still a lot to disassemble either way.
By adjust yellow part to left or right can be "legal" driving in left hand drive or right hand drive? (Uk vs usa) as i.ll want to import from uk to europe and don.t want to buy a new headlight just for beam reflection. Tia
Gotta love these videos. Keep em coming!
Thanks Jerry! I plan to.
Excellent video, do you know how many W is the resistance? install one of 50W for each led, but I have the impression that they get too hot!
30W per LED
@@2WR Thanks¡¡
Awesome!!!!!! Thanks for posting
Another excellent install Mario , well put together and informative .
Although alot of work it would seem there is a noticeable difference in depth of field with the Cyclops bulbs . Was wondering if you have tested there effectiveness at night yet ? I reckon I could tackle the job myself . Although it is a superb bike the only areas of weakness I feel are the headlight and horn . With regard to the horn I was wondering if you were considering a more substantial alternative such as the denali soundbomb replacement ?
Thanks Lawrence. I can tell you that Cyclops bulbs are a LOT brighter and allow you to see much further away. Due to the non-stop rain lately, I haven't had a chance to actually ride at night but plan to soon and try to get it filmed to share. I haven't looked into any upgrade for the horn yet. I really should do something with the weak horn on my Silverado first because the KTMs horn is actually louder. The horn should be MUCH easier to replace should I decide to do so as you can get to it rather easily. My next "upgrade" will be removing the charcoal canister from under the passenger seat. I've been told it'll take a couple weeks to get the necessary parts.
2 Wheeled Rider LUMENS!!!! ALL THE LUMENS!!!! 👍👍👍 My resistors were from superbrightleds, and look identical, but without the backing plates. There's no room for them to rattle around, jammed in there with all that wiring. ;)
Thanks for the video. With my computer on the workbench, you helped make easy work of this install for me. Thanks a million. T
Well done & very handy!
The resistors gets hot AF, I’ve mounted on. They won’t hurt the plastic, right?!
Haven't hurt mine in the 2 years they've been on.
Superb video. One thing is not clear to me. The 1290SA has a 'intelligent' headlight. How do you make it work continuously? Mine only works in dark circumstances. Keep posting these manuals for the SA!
hmmm...my light is on at all times that it's running. If you only turn on the switch and not the engine it only lights up for a few seconds. What market are you in?
I think it's different because of legal issues in europe compared with America. I can only force my headlight to work all the time if i disable the day running light (Led).
Check your DRL settings. That will adust the function of your low beam
I put some $40 LED bulbs with $15 resistors on my 1190R. It took me about 20min... crash bars? side panels? seat removal? WTF???? I just loosened the side panel to get the turn signal panels off, then popped off the headlight assy. I also didn't pop rivet in the resistors...LOL! Why??? Never a single error on mine.
These: MICTUNING [LUMA+] H11, H8, H9 Cree LED Headlight Bulbs - 60W 6,000Lm White(6,000K)/Amber(3,000K) Plug & Play Conversion Kit (Pack of 2) www.amazon.com/dp/B01B2XPKNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hzVOunukyexsM
I'm sure the bulbs you have linked will work fine but they are only 6,000lm v the 8,000lm kit from Cyclops. As for removing the crash bars & side panels, that's what the KTM service manual called for. Can you get by with removing less? Sure. But removing everything gave me (and those that watch the video) a better understanding of how the bike is assembled should I need to take it apart for something else. I'm not sure the size of your resistors but I don't want mine rattling around in the headlight casing. Looking back it was likely the unplugged cornering lights causing the code.
Marca error el tablero al poner estas lámparas? Las he comprado y estoy con la duda de instalarlas o no. Saludos desde Argentina!!
Creo que fue sólo la luz de esquina desconectada causando el problema. Una vez que todo estaba conectado, no hay problema.
2 Wheeled Rider muchas gracias por tu respuesta! Mañana las instalaré.
amazing the work it takes to get to lights on some bikes. mine is a little easier than yours but a pain to take whole fairing off!! I have to install new tail lighting, want to come and do it for me? I'll let you film it!! ✌
Are you providing cold beer???
Always brother! Mi casa es su casa!! 👊😉
Great video always helpful and informative plus always help me save money. 👍
Had the cyclops LED kit installed last week by my dealer; however, the low beam lamp warning is hanging around a bit too long - anyone suffered this & know how to remedy it?
Done ... paid to have it done :)
Love your vids. Saves me a ton of time and frustration! Ken from AZ
Thanks Kenny!
Hi There, I know this was recorded in 2017 but was wondering if you can help. I have a 2015 KTM 1050 Adventure and want to install led indicators, do I need to install only resistors in-line or do I need to have a relay installed? Is there a relay that need to be replaced? Thanks in advance
Should work fine with just the inline resistors.
Awesome and thank you for doing this video. Definitely a lot help for me to do the install now and as well save me some cash. Hopefully I'll have some time to do my lights this week. Again thanks and if you're ever in Texas/Colorado area let me know. First rounds on me. Cheers!
No problem man! Hit me up if you have any issues along the way. As for TX/CO I fly to both areas multiple times a year and will likely be through CO on the bike later this year so I'll keep you posted.
Hey man just wanted to say awesome video, lots of detail and a brilliant walkthrough. Also wanted to ask how the light has been from then to now? Any issues? All the best
Thanks. As for the LED headlight, it's been great. I've had it installed for the better part of a year and well over 10,000 miles with no issues.
Great! Thanks very much for the reply man. Subbed, your content is brilliant
Looks Good ....But....Man thats a lot to go through just to change bulbs.. I hated working on the FJR because of all the plastics you had to take off that thing.... :)
Thanks. Yeah, surprised the manual called to take so much off.
Ah, now I understand.
I didn’t follow the manual, I used my version of common sense, which probably is neither common or sensible. I did manage, several times, to remove the headlight inside of 10 minutes though.
So, the U.S. model has bulbs in the indicators! The Euro model (mine is a 2016) has LED indicators..
Why? Cost?
Just a little unorthodox that this would vary across continents...
Good question. I'm always confused as to why manufacturers do different things like that in different markets.
Where can I buy this bulb kit? I tried looking for them online , nothing relevant comes up..
Might have to call Cyclops directly. I'm not finding it on their site at the moment.
Another great how to video! Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome Curt! Glad you enjoyed it.
Hey iscthe original bulb is h4 or h7?
Buen día, mi nombre es Martín, conseguí las mismas luces. Mi intención es colocarlas y copiar tu trabajo. Tuviste algún problema o algún fallo en la moto luego de la instalación? Desde ya muchas gracias!
No. No han arrojado ningún código. El único problema de código fue porque mis luces en las curvas estaban desconectadas cuando encendí el interruptor por primera vez. Más de 3.000 millas más tarde y no un problema.
Excuse me, the black windscreen attached to the headlight, is one piece only toghether with the headlight or is possible to remove it?
2 pieces
@@2WR thanks! do you know how to remove the mask?
anyone know what kind of resistor is that? thanks
Have done this on my 2016 SA just recently. Is there a way of easily adjusting the beam angle down a bit without taking everything apart again? It’s a touch on the high side and is blinding cat drivers...!
You only need to remove the bottom triple clamp cover to adjust the beam angle. There is an adjustment screw/knob. Turn it clockwise to raise the beam and counter to lower it.
2 Wheeled Rider - thanks and please keep the videos coming. Have managed to put 15k miles on mine so far and absolutely love it. I see you’ve got the conti trail attacks on it, have you tried any other rubber yet??
I have tried the TKC80s, TKC70s and Pirellis Scorpion Rallyes but on other people's bikes not mine (though same make/model).
Hi, and off video topic you might be able to help with, i have a 2017 KTM 1290 SAT, and i have 2 issues, 1. A coolant leak. 2. The clutch is slipping, the bike has just offer 30k KMs, have you had any of these issues? And if so any pointers?
Haven’t had either of those issues but here are some pointers.
1) Assuming it’s an external coolant leak, you’re just going to have to trace it. Could be a bad hose, loose clamp or cracked radiator. If you can’t find it, check to make sure you don’t have air in the system by warming the bike up with the radiator cap off to get rid of the air bubble.
2) Start by bleeding the hydraulic clutch line. If that doesn’t help you likely have a more serious issue and may need to replace the clutch.
Was the error from the headlight or from the cornering lights being disconnected? I noticed the same error when I did the SAS/canister delete and did a test start before buttoning it backup. I also found out you can also remove all the panels and the tank without removing the crash bars.
I'm pretty sure it was from the cornering light. Didn't occur to me at the time. Yea, another guy commented that you can get the side panels off without removing the crash bars. Now knowing how things come apart, I'd agree that's possible and quicker.
Great video, I will be using it as a guide. A friend of mine has an FJ09 and I'm really impressed how much his LED headlight catches my attention in my mirror, it makes my friends Tiger headlight look like a birthday candle! So for daytime viability and seeing at night it looks like a great upgrade.
Thanks man. I agree. Night time visibility is much better but daytime visibility (others seeing you) is also much improved.
Hi where did you by the dark iner windshield ?
It’s factory.
Kinda off this topic but do you happen to know where the flasher relay is for the turn signals? I have the Rizoma turn signals with the relay kit so I do not have to run resistors, I have a 16 superduke r
According to the wiring diagram in the service manual, they plug directly into the ECU which I find strange. I'm going to look into it further and let you know.
Thanks looking forward to knowing! I agree I find that strange as well.
@@2WR hey just curious if you got any info on this flasher relay?
Is it just me or is there no difference? Only that the stocklight are turn to much downwards? I think they are brighter than the leds? It looks also not the same time of day... 🤣 you can see it in the sky
If you don't mind send link with the website were you bought the led
www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/-KTM-109011901290-ADV-LED-bulb-replacement-kit_p_93.html
You have an electric driver... Why use ratchets to remove screws?
Didn’t at the time.
grat job ...i love that bike..it will be my next
Thanks CM!
So I need to switch only the headlight mask (broken), do I need to do all these steps?
No. You'll need to remove the windshield and you'll need to pop off the turn signal farings in order to access the screws to allow you to remove the mask.
@@2WR do you have any video or description of that? I have been around it for hours and do not know how to do it.
ua-cam.com/video/s0Van8rnV1c/v-deo.html this video is the closest I have to it. Use it in conjunction with this one and it should get you close. I haven't had to pull the mask off. I can email you a pdf of the service manual if you want. Just email me at 2wheeledriderdotcom@gmail.com
Does the DRL still work?
Yep
How long did it take the codes to go away?
Zero time. It was just the heated seat that was unplugged.
2 Wheeled Rider Good to know. Thanks for the reply! I’m going to install mine soon.
Why did you remove the crash bars ..Not needed
It’s been discussed already but....
1) following the factory service manual 2) I was doing more work to the bike that required the crash bars to be removed.
In order to avoid the "C-light failure error", you need to install canbus bulbs ready.
Short version.......Disassemble ENTIRE motorcycle, install led headlights, reassemble ENTIRE MOTORCYCLE lmao!!!!! I wonder which one of those bottles were half empty when you were finished......
1) Disassemble bike 2) drink 3) install headlights 4) drink 5) reassemble 6) drink
Nice work! One hint to save some time and effort. Even though the service manual says to, no need to remove the crash bars. The side panels come off and go back on just fine without removing the crash bars. That should speed up the install a bit.
Looks like a significant improvement in night riding visibility!
Rob @MotoPumps.com
Thanks Rob! I thought that may be the case but for the purposes of being complete decided to follow the manual step-by-step. Definitely a huge improvement over the stock lighting.
Where do you suggest purchasing the Cyclops kit? Direct from Cyclops?
Since they are the same price directly from Cyclops as ordering from any other supplier, I'd order direct from them in case you run into any issues.
Great vid but why on earth is it so much work to replace a bulb.
Thanks. Your guess is as good as mine...
See my comments about the method I used. Crash bars don’t need to be removed. Headlight can be removed inside of 10 minutes if you’ve done it a few times.
great.......?
why am i even watchin this. i dont have a 1290 nor am i installing any sort of lighting
chua kah yeow 😂😂 I dunno 🤷♂️ but thx for watching